Rotary table Shenanagins

hi guys and welcome back to eighth workshop uh and in this episode as the title suggests we're going to be on the rotary table um we're going to finish off the part that we made in last week's episode which was the may bank holiday fun episode i'll put a link to the previous episode in the description below um but yeah we're going to be finishing off that part using the rotary table so no time like the present let's jump straight to it so going back on the last episode um i think it was the may bank holiday fun episode uh we started making this component part of the tool that i'm going to be making sometimes you need to make a tool to make a tool uh if that makes sense it well it will as this video goes forward so basically i want to mount this on my rotary table and cut a full radius around sort of uh 180 probably about 200 degrees of this part and blend it out to this space there is some material to come off this space so i've just placed my rotary table as you can see it's loose on the bed of the mill um so i want to pick up around that 15 mil reamed hole and basically machine around the outside now problem i got with that i always have to put it on some packing or i'd be machining into the top of my table and i always find um i've got these sort of little t-nuts that go in the slots here the slots on this particular rotary table are 45 degrees to zero so it's pretty much set on zero at the moment and as you can see they they're not in line with the miller at 45 degrees issue i have with that um quite often so when i'm going to clamp something in a particular position in this case it's going to be over the center of the center as it were and the clumps never quite work out you know where they're in the slots at the right place now i could make some special clamps i suppose but uh i think long term i think what i want to do is make a mounting plate that bolts onto this table like a sacrificial plate ideal world of a piece of sort of half inch aluminium maybe three quarter aluminium the diameter of the table and i can just put four bolts into all corners bolt it down and then i can do what i like with it um you know drill tap holes wherever clamps are gonna go you know it can be a work in progress every time you need a new hole you just drill and tap one i i'd probably stick with something like m6n8 something like that but we'll see right okay so that said um i found this piece of aluminium which we'll have to do it's the sort of only without using a huge piece it's the only uh appropriately sized piece as you can see with the four slots something i'll work out i'll probably put some countersunk m8 screws in four corners and then the central bit will do whatever i like so i think i'm gonna take the rotary table off just square this block up put some chamfers on it maybe and then look at positions for four um m8 i think clearance holes count the sink for m8 bolts i mean allen bolts and we'll get that sorted first so you so wow so so so i'm just going to pull this clamp out of the way so you get a better idea of what i want okay so uh yeah there are four holes enabled me to clamp it down onto the rotary table i did mark an x in the middle so as a reference to get central about and where i was 40 ml out uh because i didn't want these counter balls to break out of the surface i just dropped the four squares back to 37 37 instead of 40. okay so when i come to machine this around um obviously this 15 mil ream hole is going to be center about so i need to clamp it in some way on here onto this plate that's going to work for me i have got some small clamps that work with n8 so i think if we had an m8 hole let's say uh something like one there that would do a clamp into there with a bolt and uh i'm coming down machining to here and i'm machining right into here so i think that's going to be cutting a bit of fine maybe okay what i'll do is i'll put an m81 about here i won't do that one and i'll put his brother on the back over here so something like that okay so that would be two m8 tapped holes okay um so when i come to do the other end well all those holes going to work as well i'm going to be rotating it round and yes that'll clamp there yes that'll clamp there and allow me to round off the end of that so yeah that will work for both ends so um yep nothing uh fancy here just straight in with a drill bit or a 6.8 i'll pick at the center of these holes roughly i'm going to have to slide that parallel out from under there that's all right and still get my clamp on that'll be fine just okay so yeah good old wilco's garden sprayer i've been using it for a couple of years now with wd-40 and it's still going strong so [Music] what's that one looks good so okay um i think i'll tap those by hand uh i'll count the sinking by hand on the table here on a piece of wood i'll show you that so i'll just countersink the underside first as you can see piece of wood on my table i'm gonna have to bring my head down to touch okay okay that's all the burrs off the underside i've already done the four holes there so just put a couple on there to get the thread below surface and i'll hand tap the two m8 holes you probably see here uh my bolts um obviously that would be maximum length they're gonna bottom out on the bottom of the t-slot there and they're about three mil too long i'm going to reduce the bolt length by about five mil on the four bolts so here we are i took four mil off the bolt and now we got a couple of mil clearance so they were close but uh needed a bit of them so before we do anything i need to line my spindle up on the center of the rotary table right okay so where are we high high high high high okay so it's high on this side okay if i move right worse go the other way and with y okay i think we're back to x now worse other way very near today and wrong way i'm just moving x and y too much okay that's uh basically that's as close as i'm going to get so i'm less than point zero one mill well i'm about one complete division looking at it which is point zero one millimeters um i'm more than happy for that for what i'm doing at the moment i'm not doing any jig boring operations anything like that so i picked up the center of the ball so i'll go to my dro now and i go into absolute and i'll set everything zero zeros so okay as you can see the plate bolted down onto the slots onto the two slots no problem at all so a little bit of a cheat to pick the part up i've got nothing tightened down just put the 15 mil reamer back in and it's right down almost on the plate uh just to locate the part centrally about on the rotary table so that's a bit of a cheat what i'm going to do going forwards when i finished is i'm going to uh drilling ream a quarter and not a quarter a six mil hole in this little fixture plate and i could always then say i had a piece or a part like this i could turn up a little bobbin with a six ml on the one side in a 15 mil diameter and use that as a location pin to drop the part on and in much the same way i could flip it around the other way and with it being a 10 mil hole the other way make a little bobbin with a 10 mil to 6 mil and i could drop it over that so i can always pick up on this plate but what i will have to do going forward if i've got that reamed hole is clock the reamed hole in to move this plate around in relation to the rotary table okay so that's where i'm gonna go going forward um so that's the first part of setting it up i uh i had to use a little block of the same thickness for this clamp so if i just take this back over here i'm going to have to clock um this space uh parallel to uh just the the motion of the bed uh yeah so i'll clock this space up now i'm gonna have to probably put a clock down on the y-axis and bring a clock in here somewhere and clock it so that it's true but as you can see i can move it around no problem okay so i got the appropriate eight mil cut to set up which will give me the four mil rather i'm looking for around in this corner back here um my zero zero is at eight degrees um so i've marked the line eight degrees and i'm on zero as far as rotation okay um i'm just gonna come around to sort of this corner area somewhere by rotating i know the datum of zero so i'm gonna wind off just to a point where i miss this corner um because we're going to take these two corners off first i'm going to come down and touch the table set as zero okay i'll start done and i'm going to come back maybe point one off touching my fixture there we are i'll set that and lock the quill lock the head as well right okay so that depth is now set um because i don't want to go gauging great big holes on this new plate straight away um so yeah basically i'm gonna rotate around and take these corners off so i think i'll do some conventional milling just just check this one yeah we're missing that one and i've already given myself a mark of the 180 but it's not 180 it's uh 188 which is a lay okay so [Music] cutter is just long enough i'll come around this corner and i'm going to put the cap on using y so i'm just going to touch here here we are just touch that corner it should be something similar when i come around to this one yeah just touching it that side is oversized this side half a millimeter okay so we'll put another cut on in y and we're about 21 mil off center at the moment pretty much our finishing cut is one going to be when it cleans up this short face okay so i've just roughed a bit of material off from the other end or the other side to get it somewhere near and i'm just going to at the zero degrees wind the cutter in until i get touch i moved about point one then so i don't want to take too much as a finishing cut so i'm just gonna rough that out um you'll see when it comes around here uh that i dug in right round and into that area there and i've just undercut that face by yeah just a half mil uh because there is half mill left on that base so i'm going right around i should when i hear the squeal [Music] that's the spot background again [Music] [Applause] which is my zero mark which is lit and just i'll touch it that's it no more final cut around this radius it will be machining this face just got to get in shot i'm gonna run that catcher back i think we'll call it [Applause] that's it i wonder what that intersection look like it doesn't look like anything because i can't even see an intersection between that flat and that radius okay so um it's just been around you can see the radius runs right way around the outside beyond the 180 and in to a point that looks just about half a mil below the surface of that base which is where i wanted it to go so when i machine along this space i'll do it with the side of an eight mil cutter until i blend in into that intersection where i've just cut there and obviously to the right thickness so before i take this part off i'm just going to take my cutter back directly back to the zero zero mark so much the same setup on this end i use a 10 mil reamer to locate the hole the 10mm ring hole in the middle and i'm basically offsetting y again and i keep bringing it back step by step until at the straight angle i get a touch on that datum face which is the flat face so yeah we should be about a mil millimeters ago now in fact i just did a little bit of a tip there i could be very very close [Music] i'm just going to run that cut around the 180 degrees [Music] right around the side parallels getting in the way sorry guys i have to play with it clamping a little bit this way right [Music] so i made a little black mark on my uh rotary table with a sharpie and round two zero that's the spot i'll just run it back around the other way to get rid of the worst of the spore zero marks coming up now okay so i think we'll call that done and it's still making a little squeaky noise when i get to the zero i'll just do a little spring cut around there and i still need to do this space at this dimension i'm gonna come around to my zero degrees lock the rotary table [Music] there [Music] okay i'm just going to take the cutter up out of the way at that point and i'm going to remove the complete clamp from this side that should give me access okay let's just stop that cutter i've got a depth setting set so i'm going to be relying on one clamp this time um so i'm going to come back off that dimension and just keep scratching along this space as if i was just milling it conventionally so i've got a reference point of where that was um and i'm point six off it so i'm just gonna scoot along here until it stops cutting which will be somewhere across here bearing in mind i left a little bit on this space when i machined it before speed that up a little but just give it a little bit of wd on the surface trying to keep this swap out the way so you can see there where i finished the cut i'm just going to drop that down to that intersection point which is where i was when i cut the rad using the dro and that's just tickling across the surface there we should stop cutting here somewhere there we are so i've got two thou left on and there's just the slightest of witness marks there so we're on the right track i'm going to uh come down into this corner there's slightly larger witness mark so i overcooked it a little but that's not important it doesn't actually do anything in the finished part but that will come to light a bit further on i could theoretically i could cheat a little to get that intersection correct by rotating the rotary table perhaps a few minutes or seconds okay so i'm going to go back the other way and put my finishing cut on in the same direction i'm just going to run that back as a spring and see what it looks like just a lightest of sprays with wd-40 just to give that surface a coating i think we're going to be pretty close in fact i think we've nailed it actually i think we've got that corner blended in beautifully this may be the last cut we shall see color's just scratching the surface of the sacrificial plate down this end so we'll have a look at maybe flashing that over with it on the table we'll see yeah that i'm very pleased with that i can let that run beyond the zero now and off the end because we're in a straight plane so let's just well even though let's have a look even though my figures on the dro show that there's two thousand come off it am i going to leave it alone i'll take it to the numbers it doesn't matter um but that hole will be offset in here if i don't yeah let's take the two fire off well i've taken this final tooth thousand and as you can see we've caught that intersection there with the eight mil rad or eight mil rod yes four mil rad should say uh that's blended in nicely and i blended in spot on onto the one on the end so yeah i'm really pleased with that um so the next thing to do is this big slot in the end i'm uh yeah i'm going to look into that i may change your dimensions slightly [Music] so i've decided while i've got it up i'm just going to take a point one skim off the top of this plate i've changed over to a 12 mil cutter just to speed things up a bit but yeah i'm just going to take point one off it all the way over and i'm going to be stepping over 10 mil yeah just because i can see it's not quite setting or sitting level we are last little pass across top okay so i'm going to break down the rotary table now take it off and move on to the next step [Music] i want to pick up the middle in y of this part now i'll just wind across got my wobbler on there come over till we get a touch should be any second now okay set my weight to zero let's go the other side touch you on this side come on just creeping up on it it's about to go there it goes all right y function half 10.620 so go to zero on my dro that's a lock why okay um so now my spindle is in the center this way you take my wobbler out i'm going to use my original slot which was nine mil uh um was eight mil sorry by 25 mil deep i think the 25 deep's all right let's just what color have i got in there i've got a nine mil cutter um oh that fits nine mil cutter that's a long series hanging obviously i needed a longer cutter than my eight i think i'm quite happy to put a nine mil cutter down through the middle of there so that's the way i'm going to go so we can actually install that or pre-install it before we screw it on as long as you put the collet in the net first before you put the cutter in and that'll be absolutely fine i'll take my spanners tighten up the collet and i think where are we let's take the quill right up let's bring the head down i'm going to do this in a series of packs and then open it out by point one let's start there okay so um i want to come up on the end until i get a touch i do want to radius in the bottom hence why i'm doing it this way and not doing it vertically so move in till i get a touch i might be low center yes that will do set my x to zero i'm gonna come back up get a touch on the top somewhere come on hello set that to zero um i think i'll take i don't know two mil passes we'll see what that's like okay that's a bit fast see how this behaves everything's tight my vise is tight cut this tight a bit of a d40 just for luck and i basically stop when i get to 25 on the dro do a dummy check yes that does look in the middle seems to be behaving itself beautifully 23 24 and feed the last bit i'm back over again [Music] my little brush there's my swap brush gone okay so that's the start [Music] well i think i will go down in two mil packs so [Music] [Music] well there's the finished component guys um quite happy with how that turned out um yeah something different a bit of uh work on the rotary table um i haven't revealed what it is yet um i wonder when anyone can guess what this is going to be part of it'll be operating something like that um but as i say it's not finished yet well yeah i'm pleased with how it all turned out in the end um it's one part of many that are going to make up a useful tool for the mill can anyone can anyone suss out what it is yet anyway there we are we'll leave you with that one anyway as usual guys thanks for watching thanks for subscribing and we will see you all very soon cheers

Channel: ADES WORKSHOP

Views: 8,127

Rating: 4.9854546 out of 5

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Id: j0XOZsuFsjc

Length: 38min 24sec (2304 seconds)

Published: Mon May 10 2021