RGB LEDs with Arduino - Standard & NeoPixel

today in the workshop will be working with RGB LEDs learn how these devices work and how we can use both common anode and common cathode LEDs with an Arduino we'll also be working with addressable LEDs also known as neopixels it's a colorful episode today so welcome to the workshop [Music] hey welcome to the workshop today we're going to be working with RGB LEDs now RGB LEDs are a fusion of a red green and blue LED element within the same package and by putting these together we can create a multitude of colors because red green and blue are what they call primary additive colors so combining these colors we can create virtually any color in the rainbow RGB LEDs are very useful as status indicators for example the power indicator on a piece of equipment that can run on batteries or on AC could be made with an RGB LED you could use one color to indicate that it is running on AC power another color to indicate it's running on battery power a third color to indicate that the battery is currently charging and maybe even a fourth color to indicate that the battery is at a critical level another use for RGB LEDs is in display lighting you can make use of RGB LEDs individually or in LED strips and create all sorts of interesting and colorful displays if you have hundreds of thousands or even millions of RGB LEDs at your disposal and are willing to do a lot of soldering you could create a full-fledged video display with them in fact the video displays you see on video billboards and in concerts are often created by using high-powered RGB LEDs although that's a bit beyond what will be able to do in the workshop today by bringing an Arduino into the picture we can control our RGB LEDs control the level of the red green and blue and create virtually any color we want to now I'm going to be working with two different types of RGB LEDs today the first type is the conventional RGB LED which is just a red green and blue LED within the same package the second type is what they call an addressable are an intelligent RGB LED and this type of device is sometimes called a neo pixel and it allows you to connect dozens or even hundreds of LEDs up to an Arduino without using a lot of on the Arduino and so those are very useful devices as well and we will cover those as well today but before we get into our experiments I think it's very useful if we know a little bit about color so let's examine a bit of color theory first color theory is the theory of combining colors to achieve a specific visual effect early work began in the mid 1400s and has involved such luminaries as Isaac Newton and Leonardo da Vinci however modern color theory was developed starting in the early 20th century now in color theory primary colors are mixed to create other colors there are two types of primary colors additive colors and subtractive colors additive colors involve media that emits light whereas subtractive colors involves of media that absorbs light the primary additive colors used most often are red green and blue the most common subtractive colors are cyan magenta and yellow the red-green-blue color scheme is used for video displays and of course for multicolored LEDs the HTML color codes that define colors on webpages use red green blue the RGB color scheme cannot produce black instead it is generally presented on a black background cyan magenta and yellow are used in paintings and photographs printers also used a C my color scheme the C my color scheme cannot produce white instead of this generally presented on a white background the CMYK color scheme adds a key color of black this is often used in printers another aspect of color theory is color temperature which is measured in degrees Kelvin it can be a bit of a misnomer as colors that are considered to be cool colors are actually hotter than those that are considered to be warm colors there are other factors used in describing and selecting color lightness which is the light versus dark or black versus white aspect saturation is the intense versus the dull colors now there's a lot more that can be said about color theory than what we just covered and if you're interested in the subject I've got some links in the article associated with this video that'll take you to other articles that will explain color theory and a lot more depth now another thing is there are other color models other than the additive and subtractive ones that we've just seen for example the color model that is used in paint stores when you're tinting paint is different than the subtractive model that we talked about earlier and again you'll find other information on the web if you're really interested in exploring color fairy and depth now one last thing to mention before we start with our experiments is that the colors that I'm getting on my LEDs were very difficult to film with the cameras that of God I think it's the limitation of the cameras I own and the ambient lighting in the room and I tried adjusting the lighting and the cameras the best I could to show you what I was seeing it was especially difficult to try to get the differences between some of the blues and some of the greens they often look quite similar on some of my cameras so I wanted to point that out in that some of the colors you'll be seeing in this video may not accurately represent what I was seeing when I was doing the experiments so with that said let's get into our first RGB LED experiment a standard RGB LED has four connections you can determine the identification of those connections by the lead length the longest lead is the common connection to the left of that is the red connection to the immediate right is the green and on the far right the shortest lead is the blue connection now if the leads in your LED have been cut you can determine the orientation by looking for the flat side of the case this is closest to their red connection there are two types of RGB LEDs the common anode and the common cathode the common anode devices have the anodes of all three LEDs connected together this is where the positive voltage is applied the common cathode devices have the cathodes connected together this is where the negative voltage is applied so we've seen that RGB LEDs are really nothing more than a red green and blue LED element in the same package and that can be wired up as you would three discreet red green and blue LEDs and in our first experiment today that's exactly what we're going to do we're just going to wire it up to a power supply without even bothering to use in Arduino and we're going to turn on and off the red green and blue and we're going to see what colors we get but one thing about red green and blue LEDs are that aside from being different colors they also have different voltage drops and different current requirements and when you're calculating the value of a dropping resistor that can become important because technically the three different elements won't necessarily use the same value of dropping resistor so before we wire one onto the breadboard let's see how we calculate the correct value for our dropping resistors now the function of the dropping resistor is to limit the amount of current passed through an LED without a dropping resistor an LED could literally burn up now within the same package different colored LEDs will have different dropping resistor values and you could treat standard RGB LEDs as three independent LEDs and calculate their dropping resistor values separately now here are the parameters you'll need to calculate the value of your dropping resistor first you'll need to know the power supply voltage and this is represented by V s you'll also need to know the LED forward voltage drop represented by VF and the LED forward current which is represented by I notice the current is measured in amperes although most LEDs are specified in milli amperes this is the formula used to calculate the dropping resistor value you take the power supply voltage and minus the LED forward voltage and then divide that by the amount of current the LED is rated at and this will give you the value of the dropping resistor a game make note that current is in amperes and most LEDs are rated in milli amperes now here are the specifications for the LED that I'll be using in the next experiment notice that the red LED segment has a different forward voltage than the blue and the green and that all of them have a forward current of 30 milli amperes let's plug that into the formula and see what values we get for our drop-in resistors first we'll calculate the value for the red dropping resistor five minus two equals three and divide that by point zero three which is the current rating and we'll get a value of 100 ohms for our dropping resistor the blue and the green segments of my RGB LED will have a different value five minus three point five is one point five divide that by point zero three and we get a value of 50 ohms for our dropping resistor in actual fact we could use a 56 ohm resistor as this is the nearest value to 50 ohms a 47 ohm resistor might be a little low and drive a little more current than we want into our LED keep in mind as well that many microcontrollers will have difficulty sourcing 30 milli amperes of current so you might want to change the current rating and calculate a slightly higher value for your dropping resistors so I've taken the RGB LED that we just looked at the specs for and I've placed it on to a solderless breadboard I've provided three dropping resistors and I use the formula we just saw to calculate their value so I've got a 100 ohm dropping resistor from my red and 256 ohm dropping resistors for the blue and the green again I decided not to use the 47 ohm resistors although that is closer to 50 ohms which was the ideal value I didn't want to go lower than the ideal value because that meant a bit more current draw I've connected this up to my 5 volt bench power supply and I've also placed three push-button switches on so I can switch this different segments of the LED on and off just by pressing the button now I've got my ammeter here so we can watch the amount of current that I'm drawing every time I press a button so for example I will press the button for the red and the red LED comes on and you can see I'm drawing 28.6 milli amperes which is pretty close to the 30 milli ampere as it was rated at when I press the green it's twenty eight point three milliamps and I press the blue 28.7 so this is all very very close to the 30 milliamps that it was rated at I can also press multiple buttons and watch the color combinations now as I said at the beginning of the video I found it very difficult to accurately film LED colors so the colors I'm seeing and the colors you're seeing in the video are not exactly identical and I apologize for that in order to try to make it a bit more visible I turned the ISO level on one of my cameras down quite a bit so that's why one of the images appears rather dark but here let's press the red and the blue at the same time and I get sort of a violet type of a purple color here you can see I'm also drawing fifty four and a half million appears over here and if I press the green and the blue at the same time I'm drawing about the same 54 milliamps and it gives me a nice sort of a turquoise color pressing the red and the green at the same time gives me sort of a yellow color over here although it's a bit more greenish yellowish at least that's what I'm seeing here and of course pressing all three together gives me a white and I'm drawing about 78 million amperes which is a lot of current you need to remember the current draw when you're working with LEDs especially when you're working with a lot of LEDs it can really tax your power supply so make note of that you can of course reduce the current draw by placing higher value dropping your resistors in your circuit but that of course will limit the brightness of the LED so it's kind of a trade-off between the two so now that we've seen a basic RGB LED let's move on to controlling one with an Arduino so as we saw in our simple experiment we can turn on and off the three different elements in an RGB LED to create a total of seven different color combinations and quite often this is all that we're going to need for our project for a simple display however RGB LEDs are capable of many many more color combinations in fact you can create virtually any color you wish if you can control the intensity of the red green blue lights and so for our next experiment we're going to do exactly that now in order to do this we're going to bring in our Glee know into the picture and we're going to be using pulse width modulation now we've talked about PWM many times before we used it in a motor control video to tell how we can control the speed of a DC motor using PWM we've used it for a number of other applications as well so if you don't know about PWM check out the video I did on the L 298 and motor controller because I explained it in detail there now an Arduino has a number of pins that are capable of PWM and we're going to be using those pins to control the intensity of the red green and blue light in an RGB LED we're actually going to use two different RGB LEDs in this experiment one is a common cathode LED and the other one is a common anode LED now most of the circuits you'll see using an RGB LED in the Arduino make use of the common cathode LED because the cathode is grounded and that just seems to be a logical way of wiring things but you can also use a common anode LED so we're going to use both at the same time to show you that you can use one or the other so let's take a look at the wiring for our experiment and then we'll take a look at the code we're going to be using to drive or RGB LEDs for our experiment we'll be using an Arduino Uno and three potentiometers each with a value of 10k or more we'll be using a common anode and a common cathode RGB LED will also be using six dropping resistors now I'm showing 220 ohm resistors here but you can use different values if you like including a different value for the red LED segments if you wish we'll begin by connecting the ground from the Arduino to one side of all three potentiometers well then connect the five volts from the Arduino to the other side of the potentiometers note that in this diagram I am using a white connection for the five volts instead of the common red connection because I'm using red for another purpose the wiper of the red potentiometer will be connected to the Arduino analog input a zero the wiper of the green pot will go to analog input a 1 and the wiper for the blue control will go to analog input a 2 we'll take five volts in the Arduino and connect it to the common connection on the common anode RGB LED will take the ground from the Arduino and connect it to the common connection on the common cathode led pin three of the Arduino will be connected through the dropping a resistor to the red connection on the common cathode led pin five on the Arduino will be connected through its dropping resistor to the green connection on the common cathode LED and pin six on the Arduino will connect through its dropping resistor to the blue pin on the common cathode RGB LED pin nine on the Arduino will go through a dropping resistor and connect to the red connection on the common anode LED and 10 on the Arduino will go through its dropping resistor to connect to the green connection on the common anode device and finally pin 11 on the Arduino will go through its dropping resistor and be connected to the blue connection on the common anode LED so now let's take a look at the sketch that we'll be using to driver to RGB LEDs it's actually a fairly simple sketch it starts off by defining the pins that we're going to be using for our LEDs so these are the pins I'm using for the common cathode LED and these are the ones the common anode now remember the pins were using need to be capable of pulse width modulation and as the Arduino Uno only has six pins capable of PWM we're pretty well restricted to using these pins next we'll define the inputs through the three potentiometers so the red green and blue are on a 0 a 1 and a 2 respectively we also define some variables to hold the values of red green and blue so those are these three integers here now the setup is also very simple we take the six pins and set them up all those outputs and we also set up our serial monitor we're just going to use the serial monitor to monitor the value of red green and blue just in case you're curious what the actual RGB color value is now before we go into the loop I want to take a look at two functions that I've written because they're the key to actually driving the common cathode and common anode LEDs I've got two of them here set color CC for the common cathode and set color CA for the common anode and each of the functions take three integers as inputs they're red green and blue value now the common cathode one is quite simple to understand and remember the common cathode the cathode will be grounded and so we'll be sending positive voltage out to illuminate the three LED elements so we basically take three analog write statements the analog write is a statement that sends out pulse width modulation and we write to the pin with the value so we write to the red pin with the red value the green pin with the green value in the blue pin with the blue value and as simple as that now the common anode is almost as simple but remember with a common anode we have the anode connected to a positive voltage so we actually need to send negative voltage out in other words we need to invert the signal and we do this by taking the values such as red value here and taking 255 subtracting that value the same for the green and the blue value so we get the inverse of it and we do three analogue rights again to the three common anode pins now let's go back up into the loop and again this is fairly simple we'll read the value from the three potentiometers and assign it to the variables we have for the value now remember that after using the analogue read command to read the value we're going to end up with a number in the range of 0 to 1023 because the Arduino has a 10 bit analog to digital converter we need to map that to a range of 0 to 255 so we use 3 map commands to map those values to ranges of 0 to 255 and then we simply call our two functions the first one for the common cathode LED where we passed the red green and blue value and the second for the common anode LED where we also pass the red green and blue value finally we write these values up to the monitor so we'll write the red the green and the blue values to the monitor so that we can see them and then we go and repeat the loop over and over again so as we change our values and the three potentiometers will regulate the amount of red green and blue that we're sending in to both the common cathode and common anode LED so now that you've seen how the sketch is written let's take a look at it in action so here's our demonstration wired up on a solderless breadboard now I've got three slide pots to control the intensity of the three different colors but you could use three standard potentiometers three trim pots or any kind of variable resistor you have providing the value is at least 10k and so this slide pot controls the intensity of the red light this one does the level of the green light and this takes care of the blue light now I've got my two LEDs on the breadboard over here now this is my common cathode LED and this is my common anode LED and you'll notice they look a bit different the common cathode LED is a non diffused LED this one has a clear case on it so you can actually see the LED element within the case whereas the common anode LED is a diffused LED with a frosted case on it and so a glows a bit smoother and you can really see the difference when I use two different colors let's bring up the red right now onto that as well and as you can see you can look carefully you'll actually see the two different colors you'll see two independent LEDs glowing within the RGB LED whereas this one over here it fuses the colors together a lot better and so you can get kind of a smoother effect from the diffused LED but all in all they're both useful now the LED here the non diffused one is a clearer display whereas this is kind of a muddy display but sometimes when you're trying to achieve a specific color this one looks better it also looks better from an angle and of course by varying the intensity of the different colors I can vary the colors that I'm going to get off the LED just by giving it more red green or blue and I can create pretty well any color I want if I bring the colors all up to a higher level I'll get pretty well a white color out of the LEDs as you would suspect and so this shows you how you can control both the common anode and a common cathode RGB LED and vary the intensity of the different color levels within the LED but one thing you can see is that if you wanted to control a number of RGB LEDs independently that you would need a very big Arduino like Omega which has a lot of i/o ports and even then you might run out if you wanted to control hundreds of RGB LEDs and there is a way of doing that but it requires a different sort of RGB LED and we're going to look at that right now so as we saw in the last demonstration controlling a couple of RGB LEDs with an Arduino is pretty simple but if we want it to control a number of RGB LEDs with an Arduino we'd run into a few problems if we wanted to make them just simply all the same color we could of course put a bunch of them parallel however the current capability of the arduino z' outputs would be the limiting factor here so it would need power transistors in order to drive a number of leds another thing of course would be that we would only be driving these LEDs to all represent the same color and quite often what we want to do is take a string of RGB LEDs and make them into different colors now in order to do that we would need a very large arduino like an Arduino mega but even then we'd run out of the number of pins that we could use because we need three pins for each of these LEDs a better way of doing this is with a so-called programmable or addressable LED now programmable or addressable LEDs which are sometimes also called Neil pixels are based on a chip called to ws2812 chip now these LEDs actually have this little IC chip integrated into the same package and they allow you to accept the data signal into the IC and from that data signal the IC drives the LED the required color now these are very interesting and that they can be daisy chained so you can connect as many as you wish in a chain they actually aren't being driven by the port on the Arduino instead the limiting factor is the 5 volt power supply that he supplied to all of the LEDs so you can use an external power supply and power literally hundreds of these devices from one Arduino now you definitely need an Arduino to control these devices you can't actually use a Raspberry Pi to control them because the timing on these devices is critical and microcomputers like a Raspberry Pi are actually not very good at precise timing whereas microcontrollers like the Arduino are very good at that so let's take a look at how these addressable or programmable RGB LEDs work the ws2812 is a programmable RGB LED driver tip that is often integrated directly into the RGB LEDs themselves there are other tips like at the WS 2811 and the SK 68 12 for example these addressable or programmable LEDs are used individually or with an LED strip lights though often hear them called neopixels which is actually an Adafruit brand name for them these devices are available in several different packages strips of leds leds arranged into shapes such as circles or stars or flexible LED strip lights the LEDs can be packed surface mount devices or standard through the hole devices for the thrill hole devices the pin outs are as follows the outer edge there is a data in connection this is beside a 5 volt connection then a ground and a data out connection if the leaves on your LED have been trimmed you can identify the data out by looking for the flat end of the LED case multiple LEDs are daisy-chained by connecting the data out of one led to the data in of the next LED the data into the LED is represented using a different type of protocol that uses different timing signals for logic 0 and for logic 1 in use of 24 bit sequences sent to represent each color starting with the green then the red and then the blue this is followed by a reset pulse of at least 50 microseconds because of this unusual data protocol the timing needs to be very accurate when driving these LEDs micro computers like the Raspberry Pi are not suitable because they are not capable of extremely accurate timing microcontrollers like the Arduino are very useful for this task and that's what we'll be using to drive our ws2812 RGB LEDs so now that we've seen the principle behind addressable LEDs or neopixels I have a demonstration rigged up for you when it's on the workbench right over here you can see it dancing around behind me now what I've used in my demo is for individual neopixel leds but you could also use individual surface mount ones or ones mounted on little prototype boards you could use a neopixel strip if you wished and you could use more LEDs or less LEDs now if you decide to use more LEDs please remember that this demonstration the way I've wired it up is using the 5 volt power supply of the Arduino and it's got a limited current capabilities so if you're going to use more than 5 LEDs I would suggest that instead of using the Arduino 5 volt supply that you'd supply another source of 5 volts that has adequate current in order to drive all the LEDs so now let's take a look at how I this up and then we'll take a look at the code I'm using to dance all of these LEDs around for our experiment with our addressable RGB LEDs will again be using an Arduino Uno now I'm using 4 w 8 2 8 1 2 RGB LEDs you can also use a different number of LEDs if you wish but if you increase the number you may need to use an external power supply you can also use an LED strip if you wish again if it has several LEDs you might need an external supply in addition you'll need an electrolytic capacitor the least 100 microfarads the larger the better you'll also need a 330 ohm resistor we'll begin by connecting the 5 volts from the Arduino or from the power supply to the 5 volt connection on the RGB LEDs will then connect the ground to the ground connection on the LEDs we'll then put our capacitor across the power supply make sure to observe the correct polarity Arduino pin four will be connected to one side of the 330 ohm resistor the other side of the resistor will connect to the data in on the first RGB LED the data out from that LED will connect to the data in on the next LED and we will continue this process for all of the LEDs on the final LED the data out is left unconnected here's the Arduino sketch that we're going to be using to control our addressable RGB LEDs now this sketch makes use of the Adafruit neopixel library so if you don't have that you're going to need to install it the easiest way to do that is within your library manager so go to sketch go to include library and go to manage libraries go to the filter your search box and type in the word neopixel and this is the library we want over here at the Adafruit neopixel library now I've got mine installed already but if you don't you can click the more info button and there'll be a little button that you can click in order to install the library into your Arduino IDE once you've done that you can close the library manager now the neopixel library comes with a number of very interesting examples and I've taken a lot of the functions from their strand test example and used it in this sketch so most of the code here is not my own we'll start off by including the Adafruit neopixel library after that we have to define the connection pin that we're using on the Arduino and I've connected my strand to pin number 4 you could use a different pin if you wish and just change that value we also need to define the number of LEDs now if you're using an LED strip and have several LEDs or if you want to use 3 or 5 or 10 LEDs you can do so just change this number over here so this is very important next we need to create an instance of the neopixel class which we're going to call LEDs now these are the parameters that we can use for it so for these type of LEDs the ws2812 this is the correct parameters over here now we also pass two with the number of LEDs that we've got and the pin that we've connected them to on the Arduino and that's all we need to do with the library now in the setup I'm going to set up a serial monitor I'm just going to do that so I can display on the monitor which of the demonstrations were currently running so we can correlate that with what we see on the LEDs we're also going to initialize the LEDs by using an LED begin command and then we're going to clear them with a function I wrote called clear LEDs and I'll show you that in a moment now clearly these won't actually clear them until you do an LED show command over here now in the loop what we are going to do is just run through a number of different demos so we'll start off our serial monitor and tell it that we're starting the RGB LED demo so we'll print that in the serial monitor and then we cycle through a number of different demos the first one of the color wipe examples and so we call the color wipe and feed it a different colors red green blue and yellow in this case so these are the values over here and after each one we're going to delay a second because with only four LEDs it all goes by pretty quickly otherwise for each of these we're going to print in the serial monitor what's demonstration we are running the next thing we do is go to the theater chase examples to gain these are functions which came with the Adafruit library and so we'll go theater chase a game with different colors so we'll be using white red green and blue notice we use them at half intensity now the 50 that we're passing over here goes to an internal delay within the in the function actually in the previous function there also was a delay and I'm using 200 now this is in milliseconds and this basically is the delay between switching from one LED to the next LED you can modify these if you want them to go smoother or if you want them to be a lot coarser then there are a couple of rainbow examples so we're just going to call them and again these are delays in between changes says rainbow rainbow cycle and rainbow theater case and in each case we are going to print out in the serial monitor which one that we're running at the moment finally we tell our serial monitor that we finished everything by printing loop ended demo finished and we'll print a bunch of lines so that we can separate it from the next iteration now can go very quickly through some of these functions again many of them were written by Adafruit and so you can read some of their literature to understand them completely here's the one that I put in clear LEDs and it actually shows you what the basis of writing to one of the neopixel or intelligent LEDs the basis of writing to everything is to use the set pixel color and it has two different parameters the first one is the actual LED that you're writing to so the first LED is led zero the next one is led one etc etc and then the color that you're writing the LED to now a color of zero is completely off and this can be an RGB value with three different values or it can be a 32-bit integer which has one single value for the color and so the set pixel color is again the key for understanding all of these functions now here's the color white function which was the first one that we looked at so it takes an input which is the color and it also takes another input which is the weight period that we're going to do between flashing one LED in the next LED and so it cycles through the number of LEDs and it sets the pixel color to the color that we've given it over here and it waits for a period of weight that we've told it over here and then it cycles through it again so what this will do is will flash the color from one led to the next led to the next led and each time again it does a set pixel color and an LED show to show the result of that you need to do LED show to actually show the result of a set pixel color now the rainbow functions make use of a function that is at the bottom of the code called wheel will actually weights all of the different RGB values and provides different RGB values depending upon the weight of themselves the wheel is less than 85 it weights the color a certain way if it's between 170 and 85 it weights a bit differently and if it's over 170 it weights it a bit differently and this compensates through the fact that our eyes don't see colors in a linear fashion and the wheel function is used within the rainbows and the two rainbow functions that are up over here and so again you can see that they'll disciple through a number of colors weighed it with the wheel and show them on to the LEDs and this is actually very effective if you have a lot of LEDs with only the four LEDs I have it still looks interesting but it certainly isn't as dramatic is when you have a cycle of 60 LEDs so again these functions are ones that come with the Adafruit library and you can read their documentation to understand them fully so now that you've seen the code let's go and run it and watch our LEDs light up so here's our demonstration now you can see it going through the various iterations it's done the color wipes now it's going through the theater chases in the different colors and now we do the first rainbow demonstration again I apologize for the accuracy of the colors in the camera but this is actually quite an impressive demo when you're watching it live as you can see the color of the LEDs is being controlled independently and remember we're only using one IO port on the Arduino now this is really a great way to light up the workshop I think those who put these LEDs all around the workshop of course I probably never get any work done and be too busy watching the likes and the demo starts all over again so that about wraps it up for today's video as you've seen RGB LEDs are very versatile little devices that can be used in a number of different applications and I hope that some of what you've seen today has inspired you to go off and build a few colorful projects of your own now if you'd like to see more videos like this I would urge you to subscribe to the channel subscribing is the best way to find out when I'm making new videos and I would really appreciate your subscription another way of finding out when I'm making new videos and participating in picking the subjects for my videos would be to join my new mailing list and you'll find a link to the mailing list in the description below the video as well as on drone bot workshop website at drone bot workshop calm now on the mailing list I'm not going to bombard you with a bunch of affiliate offers or any of that nonsense basically this is my way of keeping contact with you and giving you a number of different surveys now and then so I can find out exactly what content you would like me to make for you so I would very much appreciate it if you would sign up for that as well until then take care of yourself and I hope to see you very soon again here in the workshop good bye for now [Music] Oh [Music]

Channel: DroneBot Workshop

Views: 121,829

Keywords: RGB LEDS Arduino, RGB LED, NeoPixel, WS2812, Arduino Project, LED

Id: JpEFAXenTyY

Length: 43min 34sec (2614 seconds)

Published: Wed Apr 11 2018