REVIEW - Asetek Simsports Invicta/Forte Direct Drive Sim Racing Wheel Review

hey guys will here so it's been an absolutely massive couple of years when it comes to sim racing Hardware we've seen what can only be described as an explosion of new brands entering the scene and one of the brands that has generated a ton of hype is Acer Tech Sim Sports now acetec is a brand that a lot of PC enthusiasts will be familiar with they started out making exotic cooling solutions for PCs more than a couple of decades ago now and if you run an all-in-one cooler in your PC chances are it's actually acetec that manufacture that but behind the scenes they're a company that actually has a rich Heritage in Motorsport so we first had an opportunity to check out their products about 18 months ago now with their Invicta hydraulic pedal set that was a product that really impressed us here and we actually still run those pedals to this day on our daily driver rig we also did an interview with Andre ericks and the CEO of the company and he explained to us the vision that they had for Sim racing creating an entire ecosystem of products that would all work seamlessly together so we've known that this has been coming for quite some time now and for the last week and a half we have been extensively testing their brand new Invicta 27 Newton meter direct drive wheelbase their Forte 18 Newton meter direct drive wheelbase and their new Forte steering wheel so they've made some very bold claims when it comes to the performance of these new products we have extremely high expectations that means we're going to leave absolutely no stone unturned when it comes to checking out these products from the perspective of build quality user experience and of course the all-important Driving Experience there are a couple of other really important things to go through as well when it comes to the ecosystem one of the things I'm personally excited about is this new quick release system which is going to also allow third-party manufacturers to allow their wheels to be used with acetex products without the need for any additional cables plugged into your PC so as you guys have been watching this channel for a while now would not actually run a semi-cube to Ultimate wheelbase on my daily driver simrig and have done for a number of years now look there's no two ways about it my conversations with Asus X Sim supports have set my expectation that this Invicta wheelbase should be every bit as good as that wheelbase is from a driver's perspective at least at a little bit less than half the price so that hopefully sets the stage for you guys today we're going to be primarily focusing on the Invicta 27 Newton meter wheelbase we'll have a follow-up video shortly after we'll be looking in more detail at the Forte 18 Newton meter wheelbase and directly comparing the Driving Experience between the two of these so you guys can see exactly where the best value is going to be for you we're also going to be having a look today at their Forte steering wheel and seeing exactly what that's like to drive with as well now there is also a third wheelbase to the La Prima which comes in at 12 newton meters unfortunately we don't have our hands on that just yet but as soon as we do we'll let you guys know we'll do a comparison between all three of the wheelbases there's a lot to get through today to get started with the Invicta base and the Forte wheel so let's jump in Okay so we've got a lot to get through today but we need to start off with some very important information so any of you guys that have been watching our racing content here on the channel for a while now would know that AC Tech Sim sports do sponsor some of our racing videos specifically now we set that relationship up with them about a year ago now and we were very very specific that that relates only to racing content and has absolutely nothing at all whatsoever to do with any review content that you see here on the channel if you want to see acetex Sim Sports full review policy you can check that out there's a link down in the description below we also have a link down there for you guys to look at as well as a video of me explaining exactly how we monetize our content here at boosted media and why that's important there's a lot of gray area when it comes to what's a review what's an endorsement and you know what's paid content what isn't so I really would recommend you watch that video so you understand exactly what we do and why we do it that way but just to give you the super quick version here all the products that you're going to be seeing in today's video including those from acetex SIM Sports as well as all the other brands that we're comparing to were all supplied free of charge for review purposes everything that we're talking about in today's video is purely our own observations our own opinions on the products absolutely no creative control from acidex SIM Sports whatsoever and if you do want to pick up any of the gear that you see in today's video including this gear or anything else we talk about there will be some links down in the description below where you can pick those up from our affiliate partners and that is a really fantastic way of helping support our work here at boosted media at no additional cost to you so we really do appreciate all of your support there but I think that covers pretty much everything again do jump down and check out those links in the description to get the full picture of exactly how things work but let's jump in now and get started on this review so according to you guys the first thing you always ask about is pricing and how that compares to some competitive products so to just give you the quick rundown here the Forte wheel comes in at 546 21 Euro that is xv80 or 649.99 US Dollars and that is X Tax as well and just to give you a quick point of reference here that puts it pretty much smack bang between the price of something like a fnatic formula V 2.5 and a cube controls F Pro wheel so jumping across to the wheelbases now there will be a La Prima direct drivable base which will be 12 newton meters and that will be cheaper than the Forte even again so we'll wait and talk about that more when we have one here in our hands but the Forte director I've based at 18 newton meters Peak comes in at 882 34 Euro again that's xv80 or 1049.99 US Dollars X Tax and then the Invicta comes in at 1 300 and 251 Euro or 1549.99 US Dollars X Tax so again the comparative pricing can change here maybe different at the point that you're watching this video from when we're filming it so check your local resellers for the most accurate pricing but just to give you a quick picture here that puts the Forte a little bit more expensive than the than the vrs direct Force Pro that we took another look at just a couple of weeks ago despite being a couple of Newton meters weaker than that is and comparing against the semi-cube 2 range the Invicta comes in way way cheaper than the simicube to Ultimate does despite being a little bit weaker but a similar kind of slew rate and that's going to be something that we'll be talking about extensively in today's video because that does make a very big significant difference to the Driving Experience regardless of what you actually set your strength to so we'll definitely be unpacking that some more today but to compare to the semi-cube 2 Pro which is generally the simicube wheelbase that I recommend because honestly the ultimate is just more than what most people will ever need so comparing there roughly the same kind of price between the Invicta and the semi-cube 2 Pro if you compare the 4K base with the simbi cube 2 sport which comes in at 17 newton meters Peak as opposed to the 18 that we have here you're looking at the Forte base being a little bit cheaper than what you're paying for the Sumi Cube 2 Sport and again that is assumed around about a 15 v80 but definitely check your local prices don't take my word for it so just a couple more things to be aware of with pricing as well the pricing that we've talked about doesn't include any sort of mounts or anything like that they do sell a range of different mounts depending on what you intend to use your wheelbase with it is relatively well priced and we will be testing those out extensively today too and showing you which ones of those we recommend for which types of different mounting scenarios they do also sell a couple of bundles too so if you're looking at getting pedals as well as a wheelbase and a wheel that will bring the price down a little bit for you guys as well so definitely check that out and again we do have reviews of their Forte and their Invicta pedals right here on booster media links down in the description but let's jump in now and talk about the hardware itself on the Invicta base so starting off with Dimensions the Invicta wheelbase is just a little bit longer than what we have with the Forte otherwise the footprint is exactly the same in terms of width and height so we're looking at 335 millimeters for the Invicta or 300 millimeters length for the Forte and 135 mil by 135 millimeters for the width and the height so it's nice that they've gone with a relatively slim and compact form factor here not the slimmest wheelbases that we've seen on the market but definitely a much smaller footprint than what we see with the new Logitech and thrustmaster direct drive wheelbases for example so that is important because it means that the wheelbase is going to disappear and tuck away nicely behind your steering wheel you're not going to be looking at this massive piece of equipment that's blocking the view of your screen particularly important if you're somebody that has your screens mounted low behind the wheelbase you want to be obstructing as little as possible in your field of view exactly the same inputs and outputs on the back as well the only other mechanical difference between them other than the motors is purely just down to the RGB LED strips that we'll talk about later on too so on the Invicta you've got six of these 25 LED strips so you can see two on the top and two on each side then on the Forte you've got one on either side and two on the top and those are 21 LED strips as opposed to the 25. so let's quickly run through some other key specs here I know a lot of people are particularly interested in this new quick release system now it does actually resemble quite closely the sqr set system from semicube which you'll find on the semi-cube2 Sport Pro and ultimate now that has a pin which you insert that actually locks the two halves together so you pop that through like that and then release it and once you release that pin you have the base side which is a piece like this and you can see a very similar shape there to what we have on the Invicta base and then the wheel side looks like that once you slide it on because of the shape there there's absolutely no movement in there whatsoever and that pin just locks it in position so it can't physically pull up and off the motor mount so very good design I actually ran that for quite some time on my rig before I ultimately switched across to the zero play quick release from a company in Australia called hybrid racing simulations just found a little bit more convenient I was always worried about losing that pin and then not being able to record a race video or something like that because I couldn't find it so if I grab just a 70 millimeter wheel hub here for the acetec ecosystem you can see very very similar design there instead of having that locking pin we've got a little locking tab here and what that does is slot into the little Groove here so it slides on and that little piece here Clips in underneath that part and that's what actually stops it from being able to come up so if we slot it on you can see that nice and solid and then we pull the tab the wheel just slots off so it actually means you can put the wheel on and off just with one hand you literally just drop it on like so let go of the tab wheel is on and connected take it back off and wheel is disconnected so we've been thoroughly testing and look to be honest with you guys completely abusing this quick release for the last week just to try and make it fail and look unfortunately I was actually able to make it fail in the in the sense that I could actually make a wheel come off it without pulling the tab now it's very important to stress here that this did require forces that are well beyond anything that I would expect to see under normal driving circumstances but nonetheless we did go back to acetec let them know that this was happening share some videos with them too and they've subsequently made the decision to actually swap out the spring in all their quick releases for a stiffer spring which should hopefully mitigate the issue now unfortunately we don't have that to test and we will get our hands on it and test it out as soon as we possibly can but assuming that it does what they've told us it will do this shouldn't be an issue moving forward what you may also note is this little array of pins down on the bottom here so there's six little Pogo pins those are responsible for supplying power and also Communications to the wheel so what that means is you've got a completely cableless design now they're not calling it Wireless and there's a very good reason for that wireless insinuates that there's some sort of a connection like Wi-Fi Bluetooth or Optical something like that going on between the wheel and the bass and although it's never been an issue for me on any of the wireless wheels that we've tested here at boosted media quite a lot of people do tend to be concerned about reliability when it comes to True wireless connections so what this does is it does away with any external cables you don't have to have a wire running back to your PC to run their wheels at least but you also aren't having to rely on any sort of wireless connection that may have latency issues or connection and quality issues and things like that now circling back to these little Pogo pins that we were just talking about before you might be wondering given that it's a direct drive wheelbase that can spin at least mechanically infinitely how on Earth are they getting that data and power through the motor to a physical connection on a PCB in the back of the board without it why winding up and tearing itself to shred so what they've done here is a little bit different from what we've seen from most other manufacturers Simi Cube use a wireless Bluetooth connection like what we talked about earlier and if you have a look down in the description below there's a link to a full tear down video that I did of a dd2 that unfortunately fell off a shelf in the studio a couple of years ago but it gave us a good opportunity to pull it right apart and show you guys exactly how everything works so that was good in the end but they use an inductive coupling system similar to a Wireless smartphone charger for the power then the communication or the data transfer is done via an optical transceiver system what they've done here is designed a slip ring system that allows them to transfer data and power through to the shaft or through the wheel without any issues with winding up cables and them ultimately snapping now they tell me that that slip ring is tested to over 200 million rotations now that sounds like a really high number obviously when you're driving and you're going back and forth a lot that number will add up quickly the tolerance again there is going to be high enough and I don't think anybody is going to have any major issues now unfortunately on the subject of issues I did actually have an issue with this system it wasn't the slip ring but again I do have to let you guys know about this when I first unboxed the Invicta base I powered everything on I put the wheel on and the wheel was completely dead now if you do have a similar experience one thing you do need to be aware of is that the USB connection to the PC does need to be active so it does need to be plugged into the PC not only powered on otherwise the wheel won't power up but unfortunately that didn't fix the problem for me what it actually turned out to be was a connection in the back of the motor housing was was not crimped correctly so I wiggled it around a little bit and I was actually able to get it working in the end so just like with a quick release we fed this information back to acetec they've told me they've actually made the decision to cut off those connectors on every single one of their stock items and re-terminate them themselves in-house just to make absolutely sure that this won't be an issue for anybody else now looking throughout the rest of the internals I didn't see any red flags the build quality seemed to be very high just as high as what we have with say the Simi Cube 2 range for example and maybe a little bit higher than what we see on the phonetic dd1 and dd2 wheelbases as a point of comparison but we did have that one little uh quality control issue there so that did kind of make me a little bit nervous about quality control in general that's one thing that they have been very big on all the communications that we've had with them for the past year and a half now since we first started looking at the Prototype Invicta pedals they've always reiterated just how much testing how much r d they do so I was surprised to come across a little quality control issue like that now I certainly don't want to seem like I'm making excuses here but I did have to kind of think back to when we first looked at the mozzer racing ecosystem back with the R16 about a year and a half ago now that was absolutely riddled with build quality issues things that just jumped out straight away as not being up to par and I actually went as far as saying that I didn't feel like that product was ready to even be sold at that point in time I went back to them and said look I'm going to send all this stuff back to you you can send me a retail unit once you guys actually start shipping to customers and we'll have another look at it and see whether there's still issues there was things like pinched cables internally it was just honestly it was a complete mess internally and I really he wasn't impressed with it and you guys can see that video for yourselves linked down in the description below so the reason I'm telling you that is that they have completely transformed that brand in that 18 months since we did that review the build quality is actually really good for what it is and for the price point these days and yeah we don't have any issues with reliability on any of the mozzle gear that we have here so we do have to give you know HDX Sim Sports a chance here to improve their product as well but again you know this is something that is retail it is something that's being sold right now so I do have to let you guys know that we did have that little issue and of course again if you do have any similar issues let us know down in the comments below so we get a better picture of exactly what the quality control is like on these products so while we're still on the subject of internals here another thing to point out is the high resolution resolver or encoder that sits on the back of the motor you can actually see this for yourselves internally so they're using a 22-bit encoder which allows for a massive 4 million steps in resolution per rotation of the wheel so that equates to 0.085 degrees per step in resolution so absolutely crazy high resolutions here we do see similar resolutions in a lot of other products these days too as well so it's not necessarily a massive selling feature but you're certainly not going to have any kind of issue when it comes to a notchy steering input into the Sim force feedback obviously aside and we'll talk about that in just a minute now in terms of construction we've got an extruded aluminum housing you can see they've got little ridges built into this to give us a little bit of increase in surface area to make sure that temperatures stay manageable there's no active cooling inside here it is completely passively cooled which means that it is completely silent in operation there's no fan noise or anything like that going on the quick release mechanism on both sides I believe is die cast aluminum and that is also anodized as you can see and this is a really nice finish on that nice and smooth haven't had any issues with it shipping as I said before we did abuse this pretty hard in our testing and you can see there's a few little rub Marks here and there but it's certainly not scratching off or doing anything nasty like that so nice high quality fit and finish overall one thing I was a little bit disappointed about was the plastic fascia and rear covers here they do look a little bit cheap it just doesn't quite have that same level of high quality industrial I guess presentation that you get with something like a Sim magic alpha or a Simi Cube or even the m-source bases that we looked at a little while ago so again it's a personal preference kind of thing it may not bother you at all but I would have liked to have seen a completely metal construction here now on the subject of that as well we will be talking about the Mounting Solutions for this in just a minute too but there's one other thing I wanted to talk about just quickly first and that is the inputs and outputs on the back here we'll also just quickly look at the power supply too so you can see here on the back there's a built-in five-point USBC hub for connecting their own peripherals through the wheelbase and that all integrates nicely through their racehub software which we'll be looking at in just a minute too so we had their Forte pedals connected directly with a USB to USBC cable which came included with the pedals down below that we've got two Molex style connections which connect to our emergency stop and power button now these are quite cool what you've got is a power button on this side so that will mount next to the wheelbase well obviously the wheelbase is backwards at the moment it'll Mount kind of like over here on your rig or you can put it anywhere else obviously wherever the cable will reach that plugs in here that allows you to turn on and off your wheelbase and then you also have an emergency stop button here as well which Cuts torque to the motor without actually shutting the motor down now that is a really nice touch uh what I like about that is the fact that it's not actually disconnecting the electronics in the wheelbase from the sim a lot of sim racing titles if you cut the power to the motor completely it drops the USB connection obviously and then the Sim doesn't actually pick the wheel back up again when you switch it back on so you have to close out of the game and reboot in again obviously if you're doing some sort of a league race and you have to exit out you might not be able to get back onto the server or something like that so it can actually be a really big problem so with this all you do is just press the button in it cuts the torque without shutting down the motor completely and then you just press the power button again to power the motor back up so that is what those two connectors are for down there now they are both the same as each other you can connect the buttons on either side and it will work just fine because the pin outs are different on the on the actual buttons themselves now next to that we have our main power connection here you can see it's a six pin very similar to what we have on the fnatic dd1 and dd2 so a standard kind of Molex connection there I did notice that the cable is a little bit thinner than what you get on the dd1 the dd2 and a little bit thinner than what we have on the Mazda r21 and R16 for that matter it's a 20 AWG wire for those who may be wondering but the connection is nice and solid we haven't seen too many issues with this kind of connection in the past there were a couple of issues very early on with the fnatic dd1 and dd2 I remember where people were plugging it in while it was powered up and it was actually arcing and damaging the connector but I haven't seen that happen for a number of years now so I don't think there's going to be any issues there now for those that might be wondering as well just having a quick look at the power supply for those of you who own a Mazda R16 r21 or a dd1 or dd2 from fnatic this will be very familiar it is exactly the same power supply in terms of the outer enclosure at least obviously their own spec wiring their own pin out for the connection and just having a quick look here it is a super which mode power supply so you will be able to connect this regardless of where you are in the world and they did include Inside the Box a couple of different IEC connections for various different regions throughout the world unfortunately there wasn't an Australian plug inside so we did have to Source our own but that may change into the future but it's a DC 48 volt output rated at 8.33 amps that equates to 399.84 watts and it draws a maximum of 7 amps from your main Supply we did run into a couple of issues in our testing where under certain transient load kind of conditions we were seeing the power supply actually cut out now again we're back and forth with the guys at acetec they actually managed to narrow it down to an issue with the firmware and what was happening under certain conditions if you had some of the filtering turned off there were spikes in the force feedback that was so high that it was actually going beyond the rated capacity of the motor and therefore overloading the power supply as well so they're going to be releasing a firmware fix for that they tell us if you do have the problem chances are if you flash to the latest firmware version that problem them should go away okay so let's talk now about Mounting Solutions you'll see I popped the plastic cover off the front of the motor which is something that you will need to do if you intend to use the front mount plate which is the one that I'm probably going to recommend to most people at least running an aluminum profile rig but let's run through all the options that are available at least in this point of time starting with just direct mounting to your sim rig now if we flip the unit up onto its back you'll see there are a couple of t-slot channels here and it comes pre-installed with two M60 nuts on either side so you can obviously slide those into whatever position you want front to rear now the spacing between those two sides Center to Center I measure at 87 millimeters now that is unfortunately a little bit different from what you have on the fnatic CSL DD and dd1 dd2 for example now unfortunately it's just close enough that it will be tricky to drill additional holes next to the fanatic ones if you've got a rig that is pre-drilled for fnatic and because this is a brand new ecosystem it probably will be a while before we see cockpits on the market that are pre-drilled for these wheelbases specifically so it's unfortunate that it's so close to the phonetic stud pattern but not quite exactly the same so if you are intending to hard Mount to your existing cockpit just be aware of that now the first option we're going to look at here is the tilting bottom mount and there's full instructions that take you through this on their website as well so I won't spend a whole lot of time here so what happens is this bolts to the bottom here like so that gives you a nice little interface here that you can bolt to on the side and then you would Mount Your Side bracket either that way like that or you could put it around this way if you wanted to as well it shouldn't make any difference to the rigidity that gives you a little bit of tilt angle here as well you can see we're able to tilt like so and then we just bolt this directly to whatever our wheel plate is on our wheel deck so if you do need to drill some additional holes we don't want to have them super close to the fanatic ones that is a good solution for that you then have the option for the tiltable side mount this works very similar to what we saw with the tiltable bottom mount instead of these bottom brackets bolting to something which is going to sit underneath in this case what they do is they actually sit on either side so you can imagine one's going to sit on this side like that bolt in from the side and then the other one's going to sit on this side too and that will sandwich the wheelbase in between the two uprights on your sim rig so you can see there's a couple little channels just like what we saw on the bottom tiltable mount that allows you to rotate the wheelbase and again there's instructional videos on their website so I'm not going to go into a huge amount of detail on this one very important thing to note with these side mounters it doesn't come with the pieces of profile or the brackets to actually Mount those pieces of profile to your rig only the hardware to mount the wheelbase itself now the reason for that is because the length of these pieces of profile will obviously vary depending on the width of your cockpit so they can't account for every single cockpit there this is the ASR 4 and we didn't have any issues mounting this up whatsoever one other very important thing to note here as well is even if you do have an aluminum profile cockpit that does have pieces of profile on the sides like this you will need to have tapped threads for M8 bolts in the sides here too just to allow you to mount that bracket on so ASR 4 like what we have here was absolutely no issues it was completely plug and play but obviously your experience may vary depending on what cockpit you're using now in case you're wondering all the mounts that we're looking at with the exception of the front mount are all three millimeter thick steel grab a magnet here and you can see for yourselves that it's nice and sticky so look to be completely honest with you guys there is a little bit of flex there certainly not anything that I noticed when I was driving but you can see in the footage for yourselves that there is a little tiny bit of movement there under some conditions and if you intentionally pull up and down on the wheel you definitely will see a little bit of movement there but it's definitely within what I would say an acceptable range the only exception to that being if you don't use this bottom mount correctly now you also have the option using those same t-nut fixtures on the bottom here to Mount directly to this plate so you can see here on the bottom of the plate there are some countersunk holes all these accessories come with a little bag of Hardware including t-nuts as well if you have an aluminum profile rigs that is a nice touch and it's nice high quality Hardware too so you'd simply just bolt this bracket to the bottom of your wheelbase and then Bolt from the top down onto whatever mounting surface you're wanting to do so this Mount Works absolutely fine if you're mounting to a solid cross member so say a piece of profile or a piece of wood or something like that nice and rigid then that's not going to cause any issues however I would recommend not using this piece if you don't have a solid cross member underneath so if you've got a solution like what comes with the ASR 4 from Advanced Sim Racing for example where you've got two pieces of profile that come out from the uprights but don't continue all the way across if you mount that directly to the top there with a gap in between then you will notice there is quite a bit of flex so if you don't have a continuous cross member underneath I wouldn't recommend using the the table or bottom mount so that then brings us to the front mount option which is the one that I'm going to recommend for the majority of people running a aluminum profile rig simply because is a little bit more rigid than the other ones that we looked at it's eight millimeter thick steel as opposed to the thinner stuff that we're looking at earlier and it does make a tangible difference here we're not talking massive amounts and again I wasn't able to actually notice any Flex in the wheel when I was driving but when you look at it on camera there's definitely less Flex here from what we saw with the other mounts so what we have here is a couple of side pieces and those allow you to bolt directly to the uprights on your profile if we spin it around here too you can see there are some channels here so that allows us movement in and out to account for the width of the rig too because we've got slots on either side that allows us to mount forward and back and tilt up and down as well so plenty of Versatility there spin it back around now but the downside to this Mount is it does require a little bit more work to get installed so as I mentioned earlier you will have to remove the plastic cover from the front of your wheelbase you're also going to need to loosen the four bolts which secure the quick release in place and you will need to calibrate your wheel center again once you've done this because it likely will slip out even just the tiniest little bits so what you're going to do is sit the motor up on its back like so you will need to be careful because it's not super stable and then the mount is actually going to slip over the top and again they've got an instructional video that runs you through all of this in detail so it sits on like that there's four M5 bolts which then secure this plate to the motor assembly then the front plate goes back on here and you can see the reason why you need to loosen those bolts is because that quick release is now recessed into that plastic cover by a further eight millimeter so we're going to slide that forward secure it back in position and then put the original bolts back in here now it's important to understand once again that there are separate bolts which are fixing this steel plate to the wheelbase you're not relying on the bolts going through the plastic cover to actually secure that in place so if you're using those bolts to secure it without the additional bolts you've done it wrong and you're very very likely will at the very least crack that plastic so just be aware make sure you follow those instructions now another little uh quality control issue that I need to make you aware of here and you may have already spotted it you may notice on our plate there's a little piece here which has been grinded down now I actually had to do that myself off manually with a Dremel wheel simply because there was a tiny little material defect and because the tolerance is so tight with the shape of the motor housing here this actually wouldn't slip on into place so something to be aware of again I don't think it's going to be an issue for every single person but unfortunately that was another little hiccup in the process now another thing you may notice too is that in this case our emergency stop and our power buttons are actually hard mounted to this front plate as well which actually looks really clean from the front these are the original the original buttons that we showed you earlier on the plastic covers for those simply unscrew and you will need to do this for a couple of other mounting options that we looked at earlier as well but again just reference their instructions for the full detail now what I don't like about this Mount and you guys have probably already spotted it yourself is that once you've mounted those switches the back of the switches is completely exposed I've secured the wiring there in place just with a couple of cable ties now I did question this with them as well they told me that some they will look at potentially creating some sort of a plastic shroud which can clip over these switches to protect them in the future obviously the original ones are no good because they're you know kind of the wrong shape to mount up there but yeah I don't like the idea of having exposed wiring here it's not high voltage so it's not going to electrocute you or anything nasty like that but it just does make it quite vulnerable and obviously if any of these wires get broken then you're not going to be able to operate the wheelbase until you repair it it's an easy fix to just solder the wire back on but yeah it it just kind of it doesn't live up to I guess the the standard of quality that everything else looks like you know everything else is nice and high quality and you've got something like that that just just looks a little bit so I guess out of place so it is what it is but I need to point it out to you guys you don't see it when you're sitting in front of the rig but looking at it from behind it just looks a little bit untidy so I'm hoping that that's something that they can tidy up into the future but yeah look I mean there is a wide variety of different mounting options I'll be honest with you I would prefer to just see a standard kind of front mount uh you know do away with the smaller M5 holes that they use to actually Mount this front plate on maybe just have some tapped M8 threads here that we could use with a standard semi-cube 2 style wheel Mount again kind of like we touched on earlier on this isn't going to be directly compatible with any of the other mounts that are on the market at this point in time obviously it's going to take a little while for rig manufacturers to catch up and offer solutions for these and there are a lot of very very high quality front mounts available on the market I've actually got one on my daily driver rig for my semi-cube2 ultimate it cost a lot more than any of these do admittedly but it is absolutely solid there's absolutely zero Flex in that whatsoever and I do I do just kind of like that peace of mind of having no flex whereas with this at this point in time at least unless you want to fabricate something yourself you are going to be limited by the quality that is you know presented here and unfortunately there is that little tiny bit of flexor again it's not noticeable when you're driving but it would be nice to be able to utilize some of those existing aftermarket options whereas you are limited and subjectively I just think it would be a little bit tidier to not have the plastic cover and just have a standard kind of bolt pattern on the front here like what we have with the semi-cube bases but I mean that's just a purely subjective thing so before we move on to the wheel just a couple more technical details about this motor while we've got things apart and we can have a bit more of a look at it so firstly I just wanted to show you this quick release mechanism how it actually actually work so it's literally just a clamping mechanism here you can see they've actually hollowed out the shaft of the motor now this is a custom built Midge motor this is Midge the brand that you'd be familiar with from a lot of osw wheels from Years Gone by same brand of motor that's used in the vrs direct Force Pro although of course that is spec to their particular specifications whereas this is built to acetic Sim sport specifications so you can see the cables passing through here for our quick release for our power and data to the wheel that then runs through to the slip ring that we looked at earlier in the back of the motor housing now one little interesting observation here is that this is purely just relying on clamping Force to actually hold the quick release in position on the motor shaft so there's no little keyway or anything that actually retains that in position no sort of grub screw or anything like that a lot of other wheelbases we've seen do actually have a grub screw in place now my concern here is that simply if these bolts do work their way loose over time then that would allow the motor shaft to actually potentially slip out a calibration while you're driving and end up with an off-center steering wheel and now their answer back when I asked them about it was purely if those bolts work their way loose then you're going to have bigger problems than that anyway regardless of whether you've got a keyway or not and I can't really disagree with that obviously if the wheel comes loose then it's going to come away and we've seen issues with the CSL DD in particular with their USBC connection that they use to get data through to the Wheel from the replaceable shaft we have seen a few instances of that fixture coming loose and the whole thing moving forward and disconnecting look again I haven't had any issues with it I did absolutely abuse this at maximum strength for the better part of a week and yeah had absolutely no issues with slippage whatsoever but we will let you know if we run into any issues but yeah just an interesting little design element that I thought I would point out here but you can see a standard motor shaft here let's pop that back on quickly and also show you the bottom side of this too so if you can see here there's this little PCB here that connects through to our cables and then you can see the little Pogo pin assembly there which is responsible for connecting to the PCB side the contact side on the wheel so as we mentioned the motor is rated to a peak of 27 newton meters and they're sent through a little bit of data which allows us to unpack that a little bit further so you'll often see a peak and a holding torque quoted some manufacturers don't quote a holding talk at all now in the case of this particular motor it's able to hold around Peak torque for about 40 seconds then the power limit starts to drop down to about 600 watts over the duration of about 140 seconds so during that 40 to 140 second period you're going to see it drop from 28 newton meters down to around about sort of 24 newton meters and then after that period it's going to settle into its continuous torque which is about 18 newton meters now it's important to understand that under driving scenarios and how this motor is actually being used in a Sim racing context it's very unlikely that you would ever see a continuous requirement for that kind of torque level in the first place anyway you can imagine if you're going around a corner you might be asking 28 newton meters if you're the Hulk or something like that but you know you're not going to be doing that for 40 seconds straight now the other big Point here to discuss as well is the slew rate or the response rate of the motor now they've measured that at a value of 9.4 and I know the numbers don't really mean much but what that means is that the motor is able to respond extremely quickly to changes inside this room we're going to unpack that later on when we get into our driving State we wanted to call that out now because that is one of the major advantages of this particular motor as it compared to a lot of other direct drive wheelbases on the market and that will probably also be one of our primary points of comparison when we compare the driving experience with this to the forte in the next video but for now let's set the motor aside let's take a more detailed look at the Forte wheel and then we can get into the driving experience with both of them so let's take a closer look at the Forte wheel now normally when we do a wheel review we do it as a separate video the reason why we're combining it all together for today is simply that if you want to drive with one of these wheelbases whether it be the Invicta or the Forte wheelbase at the moment this wheel is your only option now obviously that will change pretty quickly we already have our hands on this adapter that you've seen us using already but this isn't available for order just yet so obviously when that comes out that will change the picture they will also be releasing more of their own wheels too so we're going to go over this quickly today and just sort of cover the most important things about this wheel we might do a separate video later on where we unpack things a little bit further but I said earlier on when we're talking about pricing that it falls pretty much bang between something like a fnatic V 2.5 formula wheel and something like a cube controls F Pro wheel now at face value and I don't know how well it'll come across on camera but the build quality in terms of the materials used throughout looks more similar to something like the fnatic wheel than something like the cube controls in the case of the cube controls you've got the carbon fiber face plate all the way through like you have on both of these two but you've got a Billet aluminum anodized outer shell here you've got carbon fiber paddles you've got carbon fiber cages for the paddles aluminum parts all throughout it just looks overall a much higher quality build now obviously expect that for the price difference but what I can tell you is that from an actual usage perspective this wheel actually falls closer in the Driving Experience to the cube controls wheel than what we get with the phonetic wheel now the reason for that is just the quality of the switches the overall rigidity of the wheel and all those elements that are more important to actually driving and enjoying the experience of driving as opposed to what might necessarily look more high quality on camera in the context of something like what we're doing here so I wanted to get that across first now the reason I say that is little things like if we use the Rotary encoders on the front here for example and we'll talk about this more when we get into the software how they actually function later on but these feel really nice and solid nice clearly defined detents in each position much more similar to what we have on the cube control as well in fact maybe even a little little bit better in terms of how solid they are in each position than what we have over here whereas if we look at the phonetic one by comparison they just feel a lot more flimsy less clearly defined they just feel a lot cheaper under the hand than what these ones do the push buttons may be a little bit closer again they're more similar to what we have on the cube controls wheel than the phonetic wheel quite a short little throw there only about a millimeter of travel before they click but if you compare to the phonetic buttons those have got a lot more rattle in them you can see they move around and they just feel a little bit more mushy there's not a whole lot in it I'm nitpicking here but you know they they do at least to me feel higher quality than what we have on the phonetic wheel again with the thumb encoders too really nice clearly to find the tense just the right amount of resistance there they've obviously put a lot of thought and effort into making sure that is exactly right in the context of sim racing I have complained about some other wheels that they're a little bit too stiff in the case of the fnatic wheels a lot of people complain that they're too light and you can see there they just kind of roll under your fingers as opposed to clicking in each position like what we have here and if we look at the cube controls wheel those ones are actually quite stiff and a few people have actually complained that they're too stiff I I find them okay but it is what it is obviously it's a very subjective thing what you like and what you don't like but I'd say that if you're using two wheels like this as a point of comparison the price point for this does make sense now let's run through a couple of the features here obviously we've got a whole bunch of push buttons all the way around we've got rotary encoders slash multi-position switches in the middle as we talked about earlier we've got six thumb Wheels in total as well those can be assigned to things like ABS adjustment rate bias differential fuel map all those kinds of things and those are nice and easily Within Reach so that you're not having to take your eyes off the road while you're driving which is really important then we also have two what they're calling kinky switches uh fnatic call them funky switches obviously they don't want to use the same name but these are seven way directional switches so you've got push button you've got down up you've got right and left and then you've got rotary encoder in either direction as well you've got a strip of RGB LEDs for your RPM gauge as well as flag LEDs we'll look at that when we get into software later on as well and overall just a really solid construct production it's nice and solid if you twist it as well there's no really noticeable flexor obviously if I really get into it I can make it Flex a little bit but not to the point where it's a problem you might hear a little bit of rattling there that's just the shifters which I've released from their position so I can show the adjustment in just a minute but there's no plastic creaking or anything like that now speaking of plastic you will notice that the housing is a plastic material it kind of has this forged carbon look to it but what it actually is is a carbon fiber glass reinforced plastic so it's very very strong and very very rigid as long as it's constructed correctly and they've also done some clever things internally to add to rigidity too now if we flip the wheel around you can actually see where the grips bolt onto the chassis but more on that in just a minute too the quick release we've already covered in detail so we don't need to go over that again and then you've got this array of paddles on the back now the shifter paddles are there by standard the additional digital paddles at the top here are optional accessories as are the analog clutches that we see on the bottom here so if you wanted to buy both like what you see here you're looking at around about 100 US dollars extra on top of the price of the wheel already and these just literally drop into position and screw down with an allen key now one little nitpick that I did feed back to the guys at Acer Tech was that the Allen key that they included was a little bit too short and actually smacked into the quick release here which made it awkward you had to take it out twist it put it back in take it out so I actually just ended up using a longer Allen key that I had laying around in my kit but once we had that sorted it was literally less than probably less than three minutes to install all four paddles no hassle at all and the way that works we'll show you internally in just a moment too so look overall yeah it doesn't have the same high quality kind of look to it like what we get with a much more expensive Cube controls or Gomez wheel or something like that obviously at the price point we're not really expecting that but I'd say in terms of all the things that are important for Sim racing it really does have you covered and I think that you know obviously if you're wanting to use one of these bases at this point in time this is going to be the wheel that you're going to be stuck with so you want it to be nice and easy to use and yeah I don't really see any problems here at all adjustability wise it's fine as well we can move our paddles in and out like so so we literally just slide it into the position that we want and then just secure it down with the Allen key like so that bites into position and then it won't move again so we've got about 10 millimeters of adjustment here for each of the paddles more than enough to get it into a comfortable position regardless of your hand size I would say so let's open this guy up as well and take a look at the internal build quality so just a super quick look inside the wheel there's a couple of important things I want to point out here so you can see the three millimeter thick steel structure on the sides on both sides here you can also see a little steel plate in the back of the quick release here too so there isn't actually a steel connection between the quick release and the steel arms on the outside but what I want to point out here is that the hand grips as you can see here actually have a thick steel structure throughout which the uh which the grip is actually molded onto and then those actually slide in to the assembly here so when you put the front cover on it's kind of all sandwiching in together this is actually on backwards at the moment it'll go around this way but you can see it slides in like so and then it sandwiches between the steel plate and the front of the wheel so that's what provides the rigidity without the need for a continuous piece of carbon fiber throughout the entire shell like what we see on a lot of other Wheels on the market so that obviously allows them to keep the price down while still maintaining good rigidity and I can say I was absolutely satisfied with the rigidity of the wheel there's a tiny little bit of Flex from side to side just in the bottom of the grips when you kind of go like that and you'll see it in the footage now but definitely nothing that bothered me at least when I was driving and I don't think that's going to be a problem for anybody now one little thing I did notice one of the little plastic ribs which reinforces between the quick release and the uh and the outer housing here is cracked off now it wasn't loose inside the housing or anything so yeah it's a little bit strange because you think if if it broke off later on or broke off when we were trying to twist it then obviously it would have fallen out when we disassembled the wheel but that was obviously missing when things were put together but yeah so the steel structure doesn't go from the internal to the external but yeah it appears to be rigid enough remembering again that this is a carbon and glass reinforced plastic it's not just a general run of the military type plastic which is obviously a lot more prone to flex than this is so we've got a little interface cable between the contact pads on the quick release which interface with the Pogo pins on the wheelbase that we looked at earlier and that then connects through to the PCB on the front here now I really like what they've done with the design here I don't want to pull the PCB out from the front because I don't want all the buttons to fall apart but what I like about this is the Simplicity in the design now you can see these little tiny ICS one two three four five six those are actually hall effect sensors and the way these work is those little hall effect sensors detect the presence of the magnet there for the digital switches or the analog magnetic force between the maximum and minimum position and the variation between for the analog paddles at the bottom and what that means is you don't need any wiring connection between the paddles and the PCB itself so that minimizes the opportunity for wires to get snagged or torn or things to go wrong when you're installing it so it's a nice and simple design they've used a nice thick gauge wiring here for our rotary encoders too and you can see they've used hot glue just to fix that wire firing in position as well so nothing slides out of place so yeah absolutely no issues at all here in terms of build quality just that little quality control issue that we highlighted earlier but yeah I'm happy with what I see here okay so time to take a look at the Acer Tech Race Hub software now if you've seen our previous Forte and Invicta pedal reviews this will be somewhat familiar for you what you need to understand here is that any future Hardware that's acetech Sim Sports release will all be controlled through this same software so you can see here at the moment we've got our steering wheel our wheelbase and our pedals detected if we disconnect the wheel you can see it goes and it Grays out so as they release more products you'll see that list expand let's pop that wheel back on again quickly there we go and that should get detected and light up there we go all detected and you can see it's popped up over here now there are a couple of software updates available too running through that process quickly as well one other thing I should mention here too is you'll notice it says new update available the version that we're actually running here is a newer version than the publicly available version right now for all intents and purposes it operates and looks exactly the same just a couple of bug fixes which they're going to be rolling out very very soon probably will be rolled out by the time this video goes live in fact but if you're wondering about that that is the reason why that is the way it is so there's an obvious advantage to having all the hardware integrate through one piece of software anybody that's run a complicated simrig like our daily driver rig will know if you've got lots of different brand Hardware all plugged in or wanting to run its own software not only can introduce a lot of extra parasitic load on your system because you're having to run a whole bunch of different drivers and software packages but can also become really cumbersome to set up and in fact my checklist for getting up and driving in my daily driver rig is about five minutes long between opening all the various different software packages checking that everything's running and so forth all so I think that there's a lot to be said for having a single software package that runs everything now obviously the flip side to that is we don't want to see a situation where you're locked in kind of like an apple ecosystem for example where you can't use any other Hardware with their Hardware you have to use all their brand from what we see so far at least that doesn't appear to be the case or what they're trying to achieve here as we discussed earlier in the video they do have that partner program for their quick release system for example so I I'm confident they're going to keep this relatively open but obviously we'll have to see how things play out into the future so obvious advantages there and potential disadvantages if they do decide to go down the road of you know locking you into their ecosystem so you can't use other brands but I don't think that is going to be the case so let's take a look now at exactly what you can do with the Race Hub software so we've got a tab here for settings so here we can see a list of games that it's detected installed on this particular system and it's telling us whether there's any particular configuration that's required to get things up and running now this is a pretty standard experience here a set of course the ACC race room and iRacing typically will just be Plug and Play with most Sim racing hardware and automobile listed to dirt rally 2 and so forth you can see here does require a little bit of configuration they've got guides here which will take you through the steps to get these configured and this is all pretty common stuff and it's good that they give you the full instruction set there so you can go through and do what you need to do we've got a tab here for the online store as well as support we'll just quickly click on support and you can see that just opens up a support page on their website so then down the left hand side as we saw before we've got the individual components that make up our simrig at least the aceitec Branded stuff so let's start off by clicking on our steering wheel now obviously the settings that you see here will vary depending on the hardware that you have connected when they release their Invicta steering wheel later on down the track we're obviously expecting to see a lot more functionality in that wheel but this is really clean in the way it's all laid out so it gives you easy access to the things that you need now unlike with the fnatic ecosystem at least with this wheel you don't have any display that allows you to make adjustments on the fly so you will need to go into the racehub software to make any of those adjustments to settings so for button configuration you can see we can click on each individual button on the nice little graphical user interface here and that allows us to change the color of each button so we can click on it and you can see now the LEDs around that button have changed color to match our preference and it works exactly the same way for all the buttons so you just click on the one that you want to change and you can change the color if you want to change multiples as well you can do that just click on multiple buttons and that will change them all as a cluster and you can deselect there another thing you can do here as well is also adjust the brightness you can see that's actually set to the minimum now for the camera so it doesn't flare out but if we go super bright that is thermonuclear bright that is probably too bright for anybody and dim is about right so yeah there's a good there's a good adjustment scope there I think is going to suit most people now just one thing to be aware of that does adjust the brightness for all of the LEDs so even if we click on a individual when we adjust that brightness it is still adjusting all of them so in addition to that as well if we click on one of the rotary encoders we can see we can also change the color here we have the option to switch between position based imp put or a multi-position switch mode that's actually sends a different signal depending on which position the switch is in so say for example you want to map this to your engine map that means that position two on the switch will always correlate with engine map number two whereas in incremental mode this works like a rotary encoder so each move in each direction is a pulse but it doesn't actually know which position it's in now it's important that we have both of these modes available here because some Sims don't actually talk to multi-position switches or don't understand the signals that come out of them so it's really good to see that now you may have noticed a couple of times on the screen it popped up with a couple of tool tips as well so they've done a really good job of integrating tool tips across everything here and that will become particularly important when we get into the wheelbase settings in just a minute so we've got position based or incremental modes for our rotary switches on the front of the wheel now if you have the optional analog paddles attached to your Forte wheel as we saw earlier you can also click on those from here too and that allows us to choose between three different modes so we can see when we click on one of them it highlights both of them so this configuration is between the two paddles so we've got an end individual mode which is an individually mappable axis for each paddle and you can map that to be maybe your throttle and Brake if you can't use pedals for some reason or if you want to have an analog handbrake without having to have something mechanical besides you could do that too we've got a button mode as well which just means when you pull on the paddle it activates as a normal button which you can map in the game too now interestingly this does seem to be a little bit buggy at the moment you can see it's not actually functioning at the moment when I pull those paddles they should highlight orange I was working earlier but for some reason it stopped now so that I'm sure will get fixed too and then dual clutch mode pretty self-explanatory you guys send it a million times in wheel reviews by now but just for those who might not have you pull both paddles together and that gives you 100 clutch input and then you let go of one and it will drop down to the threshold point that you set it at so you can drag that to be wherever you want and then when you release the second paddle that gets you underway inside the Sims so say for example you're driving a car with a threshold point of 75 where you want to drop the clutch 275 to get the car away without any wheel spin and then let the rest out you can do that now this works with either hand as well so you can see if I pull to 100 and release my left hand it'll take me down to 75 and then I can use my right hand to disengage the remaining or if we go the other way I can do it that way as well so both ways it will work and you can quickly make adjustments to the bite point on the fly without the need to alt Tab out of your game by simply pushing the bottom two left or the bottom to right buttons and then simply rotating the left kinky switch and you can see there it's moving up and down so then we go across to shift light so this is all pretty self-explanatory very similar to the fnatic software that we've looked at in the past so you can change this sequence and you can actually see it animates to give us a visual representation of what we're doing here so we can have the RPM gauge go from left to right from Center to the side like so or from the side to the center so pretty cool nice little presets there you can also adjust the shift curve here as well so if you want to tweak and fine tune it to suit particular cars you can do that too I found at least for the cars that we've tested so far this has worked pretty well I haven't needed to go in and fine change things but obviously depending on the Sim or car that you're driving May determine your experience there but good that we have nice adjustments here we can also have it flash or not flash at a determined set point too so if you don't want it to Blink at you when you hit that rev limiter or the shift point then you can switch that off should you wish to do so we can also set up linear or non-linear curves here as well with a couple of presets or you can just customize and drag them to your heart's content now we can also customize the color of each LED here as well and exactly like what we have in fanatex fanalab software you just click on the LED that you want to change and then choose the color you want you can see straight away that has changed color so pretty self-explanatory and all works really nicely then we click across once more and we've got our flag LEDs so you can see here we can choose whether we want on or off we've got Black Flag red flag double yellow yellow blue white checkered and green and that again will just give us a visual representation using the three LEDs on either side here of what's going on inside the game so pretty much simple as that we've also got a little button here to allow us to import or export a profile for the wheel so you can set up different profiles for different games different cars and so forth should you wish to do so and I believe they are working on some sort of a cloud-based system as well where you can share profiles or have profiles automatically load depending on what SIM or what car you're driving similar to what we see in final lab now for fnatic which actually works really really well we took a look at that a couple of weeks ago Simi Cube also have a similar system in their sure you drive now where you can share profiles and load other people's profiles too so that is something that's lacking a little bit in the software right now but we're told at least it will be coming in the future and I will show you how that firmware upgrade Works in just a minute too but for now let's click on our pedals this is all very straightforward and if you want to see exactly how this works feel free to check out our acetech Sim Sports Forte or invictor pedal reviews it was exactly the same system there now we do have these pedals connected in through the USBC ports on the back of the wheelbase now but it integrates in the software in exactly the same manner you can see we've got an adjustment for our top dead zone bottom dead zone for the throttle and the brake we don't have a clutch connected at the moment if we did that would show up here too we've got our calibration here as well then we also have non-linear paddle Maps here if you wish to use those and of course adjustment for our brightness and color of the LED strip along the Bottom now one other thing I should mention in regards to LEDs as well they do plan at least they tell me once again to integrate that a little bit more deeply into the system too so you'll also notice LED strips on the wheelbase what they tell me is that eventually you'll be out able to actually configure all these led strips to respond to things that are going on inside the game so say for example you might be able to have a spotter where the strips on the left hand side of the base light up when you've got a car on your left and right hand side if there's a car on the right and so forth so it's not purely just cosmetic although it is at the moment hopefully into the future we'll see some deeper level integration with Telemetry data and things like that so that is a quick look at the pedals let's now take a deeper dive into the wheelbase so the nice clean and simple interface continues here as well Center calibration is the first tab very self-explanatory you set the wheel to the middle you hit set Center and that calibrates your wheel center we then have a tab for torque LED safety and notifications so notifications allows you to just have little Chimes and things that happen on the wheelbase to let you know what's going on so say when you enter High talk about it explains it there so you don't need me to read it all out for you safety settings here too so we do have an adjustment for automatically centering the wheel when we're not inside the game as you can see here it's going back to Center if I set that to to off then it just sort of sits wherever it sits now one word of warning here I did very nearly hurt myself just a minute ago you can see if I set that to off again and I actually hold the wheel I'm going to be very careful in how I hold the wheel so I don't get tangled but if I hold that there and then set that to hard and let go whoa it really it just goes with all its Force so that's something that they definitely need to tweak before somebody hurts themselves little things like that are pretty common on new products we saw a lot of that kind of stuff going on with moza for example when we first took a look at their wheelbases and over time they've refined little things like that and improve them but yeah just be very very careful about setting I'm going to just leave that off because I don't really see any reason for the wheel to Center itself hands-off detection as well so if you're getting oscillation in the wheel while you're driving and you don't want the wheel to just go crazy if you let go for some reason you can adjust that here as well we're going to leave that set to medium LED settings here as well now this is pretty primitive as it stands right now just an adjustment for our brightness and our color again as I mentioned for they are planning on integrating deeper level Telemetry based LED stuff later on and then we go across to our talk tab so this is where all the magic happens you've got a basic and an advanced mode here so we'll start off on basic now this is probably going to wipe my settings here so I'm just going to save my settings to the wheelbase quickly for now click on basic you can see here it popped up with a prompt saying exactly what I just said so I'm going to click accept so we've got a switch here for high torque or low torque mode when you first get your bass it will be in low talk mode if you want to switch high torque mode on you do have to read through the disclaimer I do recommend you read this in particular it says children below the age of 15 years are not allowed to use the wheelbase in high torque mode a little bit of interesting translation there but yeah the point is that you know as you just saw when I did that setting before this is strong enough to you know properly injure you could break your hand with this it really is strong enough to do that and the same goes for pretty much any direct drive wheelbase even you know something like the Mazda R5 that could hurt a child if it were to go Haywire so it is important that you take this here seriously it isn't a toy it is a serious piece of Kit so we're going to click on automatically turn on high torque mode when we open racehub and then click on accept and that has gone into high talk mode you would have heard the little chime there as well so in basic settings mode here we have adjustments for our steering angle range a bump stop hardness Bump Stop range overall force basic dampening and basic smoothing and then we also have some presets available here as well so I've already started to set up some presets for ACC AC and eye racing just through our testing by default you have the Acer Tech profiles here which you can see have the little acetec logo next to them for F1 and GT3 I wasn't absolutely thrilled with those profiles to be honest with you but that's going to be a subjective thing and later on down the track I'll probably do a couple of videos taking you through some of my recommended settings for various different types of Sims and cars that you might be driving with these wheelbases so you have the ability here to create additional presets I don't see any option to actually save those and Export them at this point in time but again that is something they tell me it will be added into the future that's something that's obviously missing though if you compare to other ecosystems that are available at this point in time so I think they need to get onto that pretty quickly but let's go into advanced mode again here now and go through all these various different settings which are available steering range is simply just the angle of degrees that the wheel is able to turn so you can see at the moment 900 Degrees we're able to rotate the wheel through 900 Degrees if we wind that down say to 180 now the wheel only turns 180 before it hits that Bump Stop Now bump stop hardness is also an adjustment you have here too so if we go soft it's got quite a squishy kind of feel on either side if we go hard then it's very very solid in either direction I kind of like the medium setting though Bump Stop range allows us to create an offset between the steering range and where the bump stop kicks in so you can see at the moment we've got 180 degrees of rotation but we can actually turn the wheel a little bit past that if we go even higher on that you can see now we're able to actually turn it way past the measurement range that's actually outputting to the Sim and if we undershoot so if we set a negative value then what it's going to do is limit that movement before we actually reach the steering Edge I don't really see why anybody would want to do that but I'm sure there'd be some usage case that somebody let me know in the comments now one thing I did notice is if you wind this right down to below the steering range then it actually goes crazy and it just doesn't do anything so you want to make sure that you keep that within a reasonable range I think if we Crank that up to say 1440 and then Crank that down that'll probably yeah there you go that's actually working properly now so that's fine so we'll go back up and that is one important thing that I know a lot of people that are doing truck Sims will be wondering about you can go up to 1440 degrees of rotation with this wheel which I know people will be happy about so then we have a high frequency limit so if you're getting a lot of high frequency noise in your force feedback you can set a frequency limit here to allow it to cut anything above that frequency so before we go any further here I'm just going to switch this back to my aceto Corsa competency 08 preset here so it'll give you a better idea of the kind of settings that I'm using so for damping this is basically simulating the sensation of the steering wheel being connected to a mechanical system inside the cut so the steering rack the tires the friction point of the tires on the road and so forth so depending again on the game that you're playing some of these simulate that in the force feedback settings themselves so you don't need to run a very high value here but one of the themes that you'll see when we get into driving later on is I found with the force feedback on this wheelbase we weren't having to use a lot of filtering to sort of iron out little kinks in and glitches in the force feedback like we have to with a lot of other wheelbases that we've tested in the past so generally speaking you'll see me running lower filter settings here than you might have in a lot of other wheelbases that we reviewed in the past and that's the reason why so that's our damping we then get a setting for friction here as well that gives a additional sensation of weight in the steering wheel a setting for inertia that will give us the sensation of the wheel sort of trying to continue to turn once we're kind of mechanically stopped moving it in any direction so again these things just give us an added sensation to the wheel being mechanically connected to something physical inside the car so then Corner force assist this allows us to reduce the strength of the force feedback mid corner so that we're not being overwhelmed with with strength in the wheelbase if you were to turn down the overall strength of the wheelbase and that's obviously going to attenuate our weaker signals like uh like detail in the road rumble strips and things like that so what that allows us to do is attenuate the force of the wheel fighting against us mid corner without attenuating those other effects and it is something that we see on most other direct drive wheelbases as as well then we have an adjustment here for our overall force that's what we were referencing just before so this is the maximum amount of force that the wheel is ever going to Output now you'll notice here that I only have this set to 13 newton meters this will vary depending on the type of car that I'm driving you can wind it on the Invicta base all the way up to 27 newton meters honestly I can't imagine anybody ever needing that much strength what it does give you is the advantage of additional dynamic range so what you might want to do is crank this up a little bit further and that will allow you to run things like your road texture things like that a lot higher than you might want otherwise and then you can increase your cornering Force adjustment for example so that you don't have the overwhelmingly strong force feedback in corners but you're still getting really powerful Road effects so again it's purely a personal preference thing the more dynamic range you have available the more you can use but honestly guys I don't see too many scenarios where we're going to be wanting to run a lot more than what I have it set to here and we're going to unpack this a little bit more in our Forte wheelbase review too so definitely subscribe so you don't miss out on that we'll talk a lot about the comparison between the Invicta and the Forte and whether you actually need the additional torque that's present in the Invicta wheelbase and obviously that will become apparent when we do our driving tests later on too talk Behavior prediction this is like an interpolation filter so again there's a tool tip here that explains exactly what it does but basically what it's doing is just filtering the force feedback signal coming out of the game so if you've got a game that feels very robotic very notchy then adding more filter here allows it to sort of interpolate and smoothen things out now obviously the more you smooth things out the more numb the wheel is going to feel overall so you generally want to run this on the lower side for a set of course a competition I ended up running it on one for eye racing actually didn't need to run it at all and that was purely just a personal preference thing I do find that for example a set of course a competition can feel a little bit grainy without any filtering with those higher frequency force feedback signals that it outputs these days so I set a course of Competency and it runs at 400 Hertz sample rate for the 4C back whereas eye racing only runs at 60 hertz so that explains the difference there now we have the torque acceleration limit now not sure why that's defaulted back down to 0.1 I actually run that at 9.5 so this is the slew rate or the response time of the motor so in basic terms the higher you have this set the more Snappy and responsive the wheel is going to feel so on the Invicta basis winds all the way up to 9.5 which is around about the same as what it is on the simicube to Ultimate for reference although from what I understand the way acetex Sim Sports measure this is a little bit different from how simicube did and admittedly this does actually feel a little bit more responsive a little bit more Snappy than my semi-cube 2 ultimate does which is pretty darn impressive so there were a couple of cars that I drove f3s Formula One For example where I did actually end up winding this down because it was just too Snappy and it started to feel a little bit unrealistic but for anything from GT3 cars and slower you're probably going to want to leave this cranked up and we'll talk about the reasons for that and what it feels like in the actual Driving Experience a little bit later on so then lastly we have our anti-oscillation setting pretty self-explanatory here if the wheel is oscillating a lot when you're driving down a straight for example you're just feeling that it's fighting against you all the time when you're trying to drive straight and just giving you effects that aren't really uh you know aren't really beneficial to driving or detrimental to driving then you can increase this value and it will do its best to filter those out so again you can play around with this to your own personal preference and it will change depending on the Sim that you're driving in so it's as simple as that once you're done you just click on save to wheelbase and that will Flash the settings to the base it did actually make the changes in real time as we're making adjustments here but it does still have that safe to wheelbase so I'm not sure exactly what the reason for that is but look overall pretty simple I think there are some obvious things missing here particularly the ability to export profiles some sort of a cloud-based system allows us to import other profiles or automatically detect what SIM and car were driving I think that particularly uh fnatic recently have really stepped things forward there their automatic detection in the final lab software is really really powerful and works really well so there's definitely a lot of work to be done here but I think the fundamentals and what they have here are really good I really like that you know the language is simple the settings are nice and simple to understand there's really well written tool tips as well that kind of you know let you know what things are doing it doesn't feel overwhelming like a lot of other software does and say for example if you compare this to the the semi-cube two wheelbases that is a lot more overwhelming to look at you look at the settings there and you're kind of like whoa I don't know what any of that does whereas looking at this it's pretty self-explanatory and I think it's a lot more approachable it's probably a good word for it in general so one more thing I promised I would show you as well is the firmware update process so we're going to quickly click on the little information tab here click on update wheelbase click on accept and it is as simple as that it's going to give you a couple of funny little things here you can see the lights are now flashing to let us know that it is in dfu mode or flashing mode goes through the process going to give us a little chime should boot back up again and we are good to go likewise with the steering wheel as well click on steering wheel wait for the tool tips to disappear click on update steering wheel accept and exactly the same process so pretty simple no problems there at least for me if you do own one of these and you do run into any problems with firmware updates do let us know it is something that a lot of brands do tend to trip up with we have seen a lot of people with fnatic wheelbases end up with brick devices from Bad Thermo flashes but this is pretty simple you don't need to force it into any sort of bootloader mode or anything like that it'll run through in a nice kind of wizard fashion so let's jump in now and talk about the Driving Experience foreign [Music] now I've already at this point spent the better part of a week driving with this configuration testing things out tweaking my settings and really figuring out where the sweet spot is at least for my personal preference so what I want to do now is just basically talk you through what you can expect with this wheelbase once you've got it dialed in so the first test that I always do with any wheelbase that we test here at boosted media is sort of just see how the car feels statically in the pits here whether there's any cogging or Torque Ripple or any notchiness in the wheel anything that is going to pull us away from that sense of immersion anything that's going to make us feel like we're connected to an electric motor rather than to the steering rack inside a car so first of all I always turn from side to side and we can feel the weight of the car increase with the dampening in the steering wheel there you can see my steering ratio is a little bit out I like to be a little bit more sensitive when we're driving around Bathurst that's the reason why I've done that but weight transfer feels really good through the wheel there's absolutely not a hint of torque Ripple or cogging or any sort of graininess in the wheelbase at all it is absolutely completely perfectly smooth so on the same level as the semi Cube II bases and the uh and the vrs direct Force Pro those uh uh historically the smoothest wheelbases that we've tested uh the imsource wheelbase was really smooth as well actually when I think of it but yeah this is this is every bit as smooth as those so no issues no complaints with regards to smoothness whatsoever now let's head out just gonna put my mouse down on the ground too so the first thing that you're going to notice and the first thing that I noticed with this wheelbase was the dynamic range that's available here and that's simply because we're not needing to run as much filtering with this wheelbase there's a lot of other bases that we've tested in the past and I would include the semi-cube but two bases in that as well and so what that means is that we're able to get a lot of the raw force feedback that's coming out of the game and not have to filter it like you can see even just then when I when I got a bit of snap oversteer on the cold tires I was able to instinctively catch that straight away and the force feedback just feels really really raw really it's it's a funny word to use we're talking about a direct drive wheelbase but it feels maybe a little bit more direct than anything that I've felt before and again I'm including my semi-cube2 ultimate in that comparison as well now when I first got up and driving with my semi-cube2 ultimate a number of years ago now admittedly that actually had quite a rubber Bandy kind of feel it felt like the steering was connected to a giant elastic band or you know an hockey strap or something like that rather than feeling so direct and it took quite a bit of tweaking to really dial that in but here immediately details felt just a little just a little bit more crisp and I didn't find that I had to sacrifice that detail to to sort of you know get rid of that rubber Bandy feel or you know I wasn't having to make sacrifices in any area to really extract the feeling that I want out of it now I was able to dial my CB2 to Ultimate in to feel really fantastic as well but at least with the settings that I landed at and where I had to kind of be to get the feeling that I wanted out of it without it sort of being too over the top in any one regard there were still a few sacrifices that I had to make and one of those sacrifices was cutting out a little bit of the detail and some of that finer texture kind of stuff to really make it sort of so so the wheelbase is communicating what the car is doing now my goal with force feedback is always to try to get a sensation of what the car is doing as much as possible so I'm not looking for massive amounts of strength I'm not looking for you know massive amounts of detail that throw me around in the car when I'm bumping over rumble strips and on the grass and things like that what I want out of the wheelbase is for it to tell me what the car is doing and not have any Superfluous noise or anything there that doesn't help me basically now that may not be lifelike but I figured if you're Sim racing you want to sort of maximize your potential right you want to try to extract as much performance as you possibly can and that in my opinion is the best way to do that so I found that to be a lot easier with this wheelbase now I think a big part of that is that static Force reduction that does work extremely well outstandingly well on this particular wheelbase so what I mean by that is even with the force feedback cranked up quite higher now I'm running it at 13 now 13 newton meters as we discussed earlier so less than half of the wheelbase's full potential here and it is more than strong enough for me in fact in some of the in some of the corners it's actually maybe a little bit too strong still I probably would actually turn it down a touch more for this type of car in this particular Sim so as we come through this next section huge amount of forces through these turns but it does taper off and I'm still able to feel the detail when I lose the back end of the car and I'm drifting the car around a little bit intentionally here just to sort of demonstrate but the detailing the Ripple strip is still really really really refined so I really get that sensation over the grass and everything the road texture all that detail is that I'm not having to sacrifice it to the same extent that I do with other wheelbases to maintain that sort of sensation of control in the car but also you know not having too much noise in there either so let's pick up the pace a little bit now [Music] and I'll just kind of talk you through what I'm feeling when I'm going a little bit quicker now it's still going to be off my normal Pace because I'm still chatting and sort of thinking about what I'm doing here what I'm saying but it'll give us a better impression of what's going on so I think the thing that's really standing out to me is just that the amount of detail as we were saying before but also just the immediacy as well I think that slew rate is really making a genuine difference and it does feel a little more responsive than my SC2 ultimate does now as I was saying earlier I think the way that they measure their slew rate is a little bit different from how semi-cube do so I wouldn't be surprised if the real world slew rate is a little bit quicker with this that's that's kind of what I'm feeling and there's not a whole lot in it I mean when I did the comparison between the SC2 ultimate and the pro I said that I would have a I would have a hard time telling the difference between the two in a blind test and there are certain types of cars that you know lean themselves more towards that being prominent than others I mean this particular car and track combination it is a very Twitchy car and it's you know a very difficult circuit as well so it's going to make things like that stand out more which is another reason why I chose this combination but little tiny movements in the car I'm just feeling them so quickly it's like the the wheel just kind of it's almost like the wheels driving for you sometimes like when the car rotates the the steering rotates with it so quickly that it's almost like there's it's almost like I'm realizing that there was a latency there before that I didn't that I wasn't aware of but now that it's gone I'm aware of it if that makes sense so we get carry a bit of speed through here again they're going to break a little late turn in get up over the bump there a little bit and just touch the grass and just as the car gets out of shape it feels so connected so I'm going to break at my normal marker down to Third up on the ripples yeah it's it's communicating so well so on the brake backhand gets a little way away from me there but we gather it up back on the throttle yeah it's just like as I was saying earlier I think for some cars it's probably a little bit too reactive you probably would actually want to turn that slew rate down a little bit but for GT3 cars this is I would say it's funny because when we when I think back to the Logitech um the Logitech G Pro and how much detail that had in the finer stuff um you know things like textures that's probably still a little bit more detailed than this is but in terms of communicating what the car's doing and really making you feel connected I'd say this this is this is taking it to a level that I haven't personally experienced before with any of the wheelbases that we've tested and I think it's just down to that that response time like we talked about but also just the fact that I'm not needing to use as much filtering on this wheelbase as I have with others and the less filtering you have the more directly you're connected to what the what the game's doing because the game you know the raw Telemetry coming out of the game is what's coming through your through the motor and into your hands but you know with so many other wheelbases that we've tested you can't really drive that way because it starts to feel robotic it starts to feel notchy you don't have any of that here it's it's perfectly smooth around Center there's no graininess there's no weird sort of sensation at all it just really you know not only from a driving perspective trying to feel what's going on with the car and you know feel connected to the car just the immersion level that you get with this as well is you know something else just because it feels so genuine and so connected now another really important factor here as well is of course the weight of this fourtail wheel that we're using right now this is a lot lighter than the wheels that I normally drive with on my CB Cube to Ultimate so what I'm going to do now is Swap this wheel out for my Gomez formula Pro Elite Wheel and see how that feels how that compares to the experience on my SC2 ultimate as well okay so running now with the GSI formula Pro Elite Wheel and look there's definitely an impact in terms of the overall dampened feel with the additional weight as well as the additional girth of this wheel this is quite a wider diameter than the the Forte wheel is but the good news is that the sharpness overall in terms of what the car's doing is still there so the response time doesn't feel as effective as I thought it might be in fact I wouldn't really say that there's a noticeable difference really there at all it's more just the really minor minor Minor Details so rumble strips curbs grass textures things like that just don't feel quite as sharp if anything they maybe actually feel a little bit more natural I don't know but it's certainly not taking away anything from the driving experience in terms of immersion or the things that are important to make it go quickly so let's just turn in here in fact I think maybe if anything I'm a little bit more stable with this wheel just because the wider diameter is more what I'm used to let's just go up the mountain here get it turned in missed the Apex again all right we'll get up and over yeah so just those little move you can see those micro Corrections and how the wheels responding to the surface of the track yes it's definitely it's definitely having an impact because you can see I clouded the wall there just from the difference between this wheel and the other wheel and not being used to it so it's definitely it's definitely having some impact I don't know how much of that is just down to the difference in diameter but [Music] it definitely doesn't feel numb or dead or anything like that which is what I considered was concerned might be the case I thought the light the lightweight Forte wheel compared to what we normally drive with might be really exaggerating some of those uh positive characteristics of the wheelbase but those positives are still there even when we're using a heavy wheel like this one [Music] okay so conclusions on the Invicta direct drive wheelbase and Forte Sim wheel now look it's it's a really difficult one because it it does still feel like the ecosystem in general is in its infancy now obviously this is very early production still uh you know we're yet to see how things are going to flesh out there's still a lot of obvious things that can be added in the software side of things just in terms of the the overall user experience things are very clean at the moment but there's a lot of functionality that could be added things like cloud-based sharing of profiles a lot of the things that we're now seeing in some other brands which just simply aren't present in the Race Hub software as it stands right now but those are all software-based things and those are things that I'm sure will be added in time some of them they've already told us will be added but it's safe to say if you were to buy this Hardware now then you'd be able to take advantage of those improvements in the software side later on without needing to upgrade the hardware so it's not really a concern it's not just whether you're willing to buy into an ecosystem which is obviously still in its infancy and will obviously grow bigger over time but I think really the the key to takeaway here for me the thing that I keep going back to in my mind is the fact that this wheelbase did provide me with what I would describe as the best force feedback that I've ever felt across most of the different Sim titles that we tested with it was negligible on some of the more arcade style games like your dirt rally your um F1 2022 for example but when you get into the more hardcore Sims like iRacing ACC and so forth this was able to provide a level of detail and smoothness that I haven't felt before now there are some other bases that come very close obviously the semi-cube 2 Pro and ultimate are very close the vrs direct Force Pro as well is very very close to this and also a little bit cheaper than this too but what it came down to I think for me is uh is that slew rate the response time in the motor just really allows you to just instantly feel what's going on with the car at a really granular level but without the without the force feedback becoming robotic and grainy as a result and you know most of the other wheelbases that we've tested over the years have required a lot more filtering in place than this has to you know filter out some of that robotic feel and it almost always ends up becoming a balance between trying to maintain the smoothness in the wheelbase but not losing that granular detail and I think that's really where this wheelbase has impressed me the most and where it's a really outstanding product now obviously that is at a fundamental level the most important thing when it comes to the overall experience people are buying this because they want to have an excellent Driving Experience but there are a lot of other things that go into that as well I would have liked to have seen a little bit more versatility when it came to mounting in particular now they do have a large selection of mounting options available but I can't just help but feel that they're a little bit over engineered and a little bit overly complex all they really needed to do was just build some t-slot channels into the sides here as well and that would have just made things so much easier to Mount And if they'd made the bolt pattern on the bottom the same layout as what you get with a fanatic base then that would have made it so much easier to just integrate into an existing rig without the need to spend extra money on mounts and things like that so A couple of things that I question there in the design none of them are massive deal breakers or anything like that but things that I did kind of get a little bit frustrated with throughout the review process I think the main one is just the fact that we've got this plastic shroud over the front of the motor it would be so much nicer in my opinion to just have a flat fascia here that you could just bolt directly to a semi-cube two style mounting bracket a lot of rig manufacturers already come with those as an option A lot of people might be upgrading from a more entry-level base that maybe has that kind of Mount so being able to just bolt that straight onto your rig without having to have any extra Hardware that introduces the potential for additional flex and things like that just seems a little bit unnecessary and I know they're wanting to sort of stand out and create something that looks different from the other options that are on the market but there is a balance there and I do think that sometimes simple can be better with regards to the new cableless quick release as well I'm really impressed with it overall I I do have a few concerns when it comes to longevity I'm not going to lie I'm just a little bit concerned that if this tab starts to wear down over time that will introduce some play in the quick release if you're pulling the wheel on and off a lot and you know wearing that down over time all it's going to take is a little bit of a gap between this and the opposing side on the latch and that will introduce a little bit of play in the wheel so look we're just going to have to see how that stands to test the time obviously their claim is that they've put it through a massive amount of testing and they don't expect it to ever be an issue but obviously that's just something that we'll have to see how it goes over time now another big consideration at the moment as well if you are buying one of these is the fact that this is literally the only wheel that you can buy at the time of making this video now they tell me that by the time this video goes live you may even be able to buy the quick release adapter which will allow you to bolt your own wheels on and we do know that they're working on Partnerships with a lot of common wheel manufacturers as well to make wheels that can bolt directly on and make use of the same cables technology here so you're not having to have cables running around your rig and so forth so again it comes back to that infancy of the ecosystem and I'm really excited to see how things evolve over time now we do need to talk about the quality control issues that we encountered throughout the review process as well there were more of those than I was hoping for I think it's fair to say that you know this is a very very early production run if I have a look at the serial number of the base in fact I'll have a look at it right now this is number nine so this is the ninth one that was manufactured and if I have a look at the wheel as well this was I think the sixth yeah 16th so it is very very very early in the production run now I have been chatting extensively this afternoon as we're filming this with uh with Andre the CEO of acetech and along and the shorter the discussion is basically that you know it is early production and I don't want to sound like I'm making excuses for them but I have to cast my mind back to when we first took a look at the Mazda R16 about 18 months ago now that was an absolute disaster to the point where I actually sent everything they sent me back and said look I don't feel like this is ready to be sold yet you know come back when you're ready to actually start selling to customers and we'll have another look at it and you know looking at the improvements that they've made in that 18 months since we first looked at their gear now I have absolutely no issue whatsoever recommending their stuff so it goes to show that you know early stuff can sometimes be problematic now in that case it was pre-production samples that they'd sent us this is production run stuff but it is early production and you know they have been very receptive to all the feedback that I've given them you know I've been hassling Andre the CEO of a massive company at all hours of the night time while he's trying to spend time with his family and kids and stuff and he's always been polite he's always responded he's always taken the time to go and find out what actually happened before coming back to me with an answer as well so that has been appreciated and I genuinely have every confidence that the issues that we did uncover throughout this review process will be improved upon in the future I can't guarantee that if you buy one now you won't run into some of the same issues that we came across so look I would be lying if I didn't admit that I was disappointed and a little bit frustrated with a number of little Annoying issues that we did come into throughout this River process and it is pretty normal to come across a couple of things that we need to go back and forth with manufacturers just to make sure that what we're demonstrating in our videos is accurate and how they're actually meant to be used by you guys obviously we don't want to be spreading misinformation but you know there were a couple of little things there that we had to work with the engineers to get up and running silly little things like dodgy crimp connections and just stuff that in my opinion should have never made at past quality control but they assure us that they are addressing the concerns that we raised with them so hopefully by the time you get your hands on these products none of these things will be problem so look overall I am very impressive and I really do have to keep going back to the fact that all the fundamental building blocks of an absolutely awesome product are definitely there the software look and feel is excellent and I'm really excited to see how they flesh that out with additional features I'm sure that we'll see some aftermarket options for quick release adapters coming out as well I'm sure that it won't be any time at all before somebody comes up with some sort of a 70 millimeter stud pattern that you can bolt directly onto the nose of the motor remembering again that it is just a naked shaft on the front of the motor that you can clamp down with pretty much anything that you can think of I'm sure that somebody will come up with an aftermarket CNC machine flange as well to mount on the front of the motor to make it compatible with some of the existing adapters and brackets for a lot of the cockpits that are already out on the market but as it stands right now I gotta say I think that it's already an excellent product right out of the gate and I think it's only going to improve in terms of quality control uh feature set and all those important things as time goes on as well we do have to remember again that it is early days for this product and yeah I think that it has really great potential so I'm really excited as well to see how the Forte base compares to this guy I do feel like the Invicta base has more strength than anybody is going to reasonably need and I say that same thing about my semi-cube2 ultimate that I run on my daily driver rig as well I run that at less than half of its potential in terms of dynamic range and it's absolutely fine for me but that said the slew rate on this is one of the things that I felt was outstanding in communicating that high quality force feedback so it's going to be really interesting to see how the Forte base Compares and we'll be having that discussion very very soon here on the channel so if you aren't already now is a great time to subscribe but for now that is it let us know if you've got any questions down in the comments below we'll do our absolute best to answer those in future videos but above all thank you very much for watching Once Again leave a thumbs up if you've found the video helpful and enjoyable and if you do decide you want to pick up any of the products that you've seen in today's video The Links down in the description are an awesome way of helping support our work here at boosted media at no original cost to you so thank you very much for that thank you very much for watching and we'll see you again very soon bye

Channel: Boosted Media

Views: 101,454

Keywords: best sim racing wheel, asetek vs simucube, asetek vs moza, moza racing, fanatec, best value sim racing wheel, best force feedback wheel, asetek invicta, asetek forte, asetek simsports review, invicta review, forte review, sim racing wheel review, what is the best sim racing wheel, asetek vs fanatec, asetek forte vs fanatec, what is the best value sim racing, best value sim racing setup, sim racing setup, best sim racing setup, best sim rig, sim racing, driving simulator

Id: c5-Cn9OmQr8

Length: 87min 0sec (5220 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 17 2023