FANATEC QR2 IS FINALLY HERE! - In Depth Review and EVERYTHING You Need To Know

hey guys will here no you're not dreaming what we have in front of us believe it or not is the new fnatic qr2 quick release system after what's almost three years of waiting now so there's no other way around this this is probably the most critical product for fnatic that they've ever released the entire ecosystem the future of their ecosystem is going to hinge around what this quick release system is like there's a lot of other products that have come out on the market since the original qr1 was designed that's as you guys have seen in our other review videos are objectively a lot stronger and a lot more rigid than what the qr1 system is so if this isn't good then it is really really going to hurt the fnatic ecosystem overall so what we're going to be doing in today's video is going over this in as much detail as we can whether or not you're looking into buying into the phonetic ecosystem for the first time we're waiting to see what this is like whether it's worth upgrading to the qr2 system over the qr1 system what that upgrade path might look like as well and basically just going through all the details of everything we think you need to know about the qr2 and what it's like to drive with so let's Dive In okay guys so firstly a big thank you to fnatic for sending across this gear for us to check out today now as you guys that watch the channel regularly will know we also like to test and compare against a bunch of other gear from other manufacturers in our videos too to give you the best overall picture possible of what might suit your needs and budgets uh most appropriately so important that you guys know that's all the other gear that we're going to be comparing to in today's video was also sent to us under exactly the same conditions now if you do decide you want to pick up any of the gear that we talk about in today's video whether it's fnatic or any other brand we do have some affiliate links available down in the description below those are an awesome way of helping support our work here at boosted media at no additional cost to you and that's just something that's available for you guys that want to help support our work and find what we do here of benefit too so we really do appreciate your support there it's of course completely up to you guys whether or not you want to use those links now it's also important that you know that no third party of any type whether it's fanatic or any other brand has any kind of input whatsoever into what we're going to be sharing in today's video it's purely just my own observations and my own opinions nothing more nothing less and nobody gets to see the video before you guys do as well so we're going to start today's video off a little bit differently normally I would go straight into pricing but I want to kind of set the stage here a little bit for you guys today by talking about some of the issues that I personally have experienced with the qr1 system and some of the things that we see talked about quite regularly in forums some of the reasons why quite frankly quite a few people have moved away from the phonetic ecosystem and looked at other options while we've been waiting for this product to release or maybe have invested in other ecosystems to begin with so look and I'm gonna I'm gonna keep this to just my own observations and things that I've experienced myself I would always recommend you guys jump into forums and you know have a look around online to find you know as much information as you can on these things so I've got a couple of bits and pieces here that I'm going to use to demonstrate this before we look at the qr2 in more detail so what we have here is a motor shaft from a csldd or gt-dd Pro and also a motor shaft from a dd1 or a dd2 now the basic interface where the wheel physical connects to the hub has been pretty much the same design since fnatic first introduced interchangeable Wheels into their ecosystem except for just a few minor differences in the pin assembly between some of the various different bases now we did see one issue in particular with the club support wheelbase 2.5 where that would seem to be a little bit more prone to Breaking pins on the on the steering wheel we saw more and this is this is just my own observation but we definitely saw more people complaining about broken pins using a club spot wheelbase 2.5 than we ever see on the CSL DD or dd1 and dd2 and I actually did experience some broken pins on one of my steering wheels using a club sport wheelbase 2.5 many years ago there's a video buried deep on the channel if you want to go back and troll through to find it but look basically the way this interface works is you've got your wheel side part of the quick release that has a keyway on it I don't need to go into a lot of detail on this because you guys are familiar with it already for the most part but it slides in like that you pull on the tab it slides into and locks into place now it looks all well and good to release it again you just pull on the tab and it comes out but there is some manufacturing Tolerance on both the motor side of the stem here and the wheel side with the sleeve so what that means is when you put the two together if there's any discrepancy at all there what happens is that shaft and you can see on this one as an example and it's not clicked into place does have a little bit of play there you can see it's just moving around and wobbling a little bit now there are some ball bearings internally there as well which lock into the divots on the ring but the amount of spring Force that's there isn't enough to you know make you not able to physically move the Wheel from side to side so the the impact of that is that you do feel a little bit of sensation and it varies depending on you know your batch of quick releases and your batch of stems so some people will say that they don't experience any movement at all other people will say that there's a ton of movement it's just basically like a drawdown to those manufacturing tolerances and we've had you know probably 30 different phonetic Wheels coming through here probably 10 or so different bases and every single combination is always a little bit different but there's always some level of play there at least in my experience and what that play does is it introduces a couple of issues so as I said before you feel that little bit of wobble in the steering wheel it can also create a horrible clunking noise as well so it kind of sounds like like that and a lot of people often wonder what that sound is it's actually again in my observation just the quick release rotating a little bit on the shaft and under sharp changes the direction you can actually get a little bit of a clunking sound and as I described earlier what that also introduces is a little bit of movement which can over time fatigue the pins in the back of the steering wheel so if we look at the back of this steering wheel here you can see that is fnatic standard pin assembly which is the same on the qr2 but I'll explain how that is integrated into the design of that a little bit later on but you can imagine if that wheel is wobbling back and forth and it's going and those pins are going into a assembly like this if there isn't any play in the receptacle side then over time those pins are going to fatigue and break off and that was the issue again in my observation with the design of the club support wheelbase 2.5 it had a different pin assembly which didn't allow the pins to actually wiggle around in the receptacle side and what that meant is that they would fatigue a lot more quickly I haven't actually seen anybody complain about broken pins myself on a csldd or a dd1 and dd2 because of that difference in the design there that does allow a little tiny bit of play there so that is uh that's basically how it works on the on the qr1 for the csldd and the older wheelbases now there is also a little threaded hole on the bottom of the quick release as well as on the wheel side which did actually act as a basically a retainer so what you would do is you would put the two together like so right click them together and then there was a screw that they included with all of their wheels which you could put through and that would kind of lock the two into position but because it's only pivoting on a single axis there in my experience at least there was always still that little bit of movement from side to side you could still wiggle the wheel and you know feel that metal to metal contact in the case of the club sport quick release and then they also later released as we just saw their simplified quick release which uses a similar mechanism internally but uses little plastic fingers and we've got a full review of this switch you can check out for more detail but basically what happens is rather than having a spring-loaded ball bearing mechanism to lock the wheel into position on the Hub what this one would do is slide in like so and then what you would do is you would actually rotate the ring to squeeze those fingers in and that would create the connection now that didn't have that that kind of slop or play in the mechanism but because it is a glass infused plastic design as opposed to metal it has more Flex inherent in the design in general and you guys can see in the footage on your screen now how much movement there was in that so whether or not you noticed that movement when driving is of course a very subjective thing I tend to notice it because I'm very attuned to those kinds of things we'll pop that out again but you know some people say that it's never really been a problem for them either but that's basically the rundown on the limitations I guess you could say of the qr1 system as it pertains to the csld GTD Pro and some of their older wheelbases like the CSL elite club sport wheelbase 2.5 and so forth then there is the stem that you get on the dd1 and dd2 and you can see this is essentially the same design for all intents and purposes except what they did here was they integrated a little rubber ring which you could actually squish up by tightening this collar around the outside and the idea of that was is that it would reduce the amount of play from side to side because this rubber ring would compress and squish up inside the quick release so you can imagine you pop this guy on and then as you tighten this end up that squishes up and that removes that play from side to side in practice I never found that it made a significant difference really it did kind of remove that metal to metal contact but it didn't reduce in my opinion the overall sensation of flex in the wheel so it was a bit of a I don't want to sound too harsh but in my opinion it was a bit of a Band-Aid solution to a problem that was basically just inherent in the design of the quick release and of course it's not an easy problem to solve because they need to be able to maintain that backward compatibility with all of their older Wheels remembering again that that quick release system was designed in a time where wheelbases weren't anywhere near as strong as they are today so it didn't need to be as sturdy as it is now so broken pins on some of their earlier wheelbases wasn't issue it doesn't seem to be quite such an issue now but the main issue that people have is just that flex and that movement in the wheel now of course any movement in the wheel will have an objective impact if you were to measure it on the quality of the force feedback because it is introducing some damping but subjectively again as I said whether or not you actually feel that sensation when you're driving is a very debatable thing some people say that it's absolutely horrendous some people say they don't notice it at all but some you know where you fall in that let us know in the comments down below if you've got experience with the qr1 what your experience has been like whether it's something that bothers you or not so that kind of sets the stage for the qr2 system now so let's let's dive in now let's talk about pricing of these guys then we'll get into how it works how it's installed and of course how it improves those issues that we've just talked about so pricing now this is going to get a little bit complicated depending on your particular scenario whether you're looking to buy into the ecosystem or upgrade existing gear they have told us that there will be some upgrade kits at discounted prices available they haven't shared any detail on that at the time that we're recording this but by the time you guys are seeing this video hopefully fingers crossed if everything goes well and it really he does with product launches for fnatic the website always seems to crash and have a few issues but provided that everything works as it's meant to everything should be live on the website by the time you guys are seeing this video so you'll be able to go and take a look for yourself so let's start off talking about the wheelbase side of things because of course you will need to upgrade those two different stems that we talked about for your csldd or GTD Pro or your dd1dd2 unfortunately there isn't an upgrade path available for the older Club sport wheelbase 2.5 or anything earlier than that or the CSL Elite wheelbases so you will need a GTD Pro or csldd or a dd-1 dd2 to take advantage of this new ecosystem and of course their new products that we'll release in the future will automatically come with the with the new stem but my understanding is that at least for a period of time we believe one to two years if you do buy any future bases that come out and you want to integrate it with your older qr1 system so you don't want to upgrade every single wheel that you have for example there will be some sort of a downgrade path available too I'm not sure exactly what that's going to look like but I'm sure they'll share the details and we'll be able to share more on that into the future so if you already own a dd1 or a dd2 or a CSL DD or GTD Pro you are going to need to purchase a upgraded shaft to bring you into the qr2 ecosystem we unfortunately at the time of recording this only have European or us pricing although as I said before by the time you're watching this hopefully all the products will be live on their website and you can see for yourself the pricing anyway if you're in one of those other regions but if you're looking at upgrading your dd1 or dd2 wheelbase you're going to be looking at the Type M adapter which comes in at 149.95 Euro or US dollars if you're looking at upgrading your CSL DD or your GTD Pro you're going to be looking at the type C adapter and that comes in at 69.95 Euro or US Dollars now flipping over to the wheel side there's actually going to be three different quick releases available depending on how much you want to spend and what type of wheel you're going to be mounting it on now for the most part they are cross-compatible or interchangeable just with the exception of the light version that will have the exception of not unlocking the high torque modes on the dd1 and dd2 so if you're running on a dd1 dd2 you will want to stick with the either standard qr2 or the pro qr2 so what are the differences uh the qr2 pro that comes in at 199.95 Euro or US Dollars and that is actually a FIA certified quick release so it's the same one that you're going to be getting if you've already purchased their M4 GT3 wheel for example so in the case of the qr2 pro it's actually CNC machined from a block of aircraft grade aluminum so they machine that down and that of course gives them extremely tight tolerances and it's also PTFE coated to make it glide on to the motor stem a little bit more elegantly I guess you could say than the standard version The Standard Version is actually a cast aluminum but they also CNC machine the casting afterwards so that maintains the same level of precision in the manufacturing and the same tolerances when mounting it but it does make the manufacturing process a little bit cheaper and this one isn't of course FIA certified if that's important to you but I think there's probably only going to be about three or four people in the entire world that that actually matters to this one doesn't have the PTFE coding look honestly I don't feel a massive difference between the two mating them up against the quick release anyway so I don't think it's really a big deal I think if you want to be absolutely baller then by all means go for the more expensive one as I said before the M4 GT3 wheel will be coming with this one moving forward and those who have already purchased that wheel will be receiving the pro version in the mail but the the standard qr2 that guy comes in at 99.95 Euro or 99.95 US dollars so half the price pretty much of the pro version so pretty significant saving there for you know no real difference in the overall Driving Experience other than just the Aesthetics and that slight difference in how it feels sliding on and off so then we have the qr2 light adapter now this guy comes in quite a bit cheaper than the standard this comes in at 59.95 Euro or US Dollars and this is going to be compatible with all of the interchangeable quick release models within the CSL Elite range or CSL range as well as the club sports F1 Esports V2 two wheel which also has that interchangeable quick release so if you're wanting to purchase the cheaper one for the other club sport series Wheels like the V 2.5 formula wheels for example and of course the podium Series 2 you will have problems because of this little plastic tab here which is designed to enable or disable the high torque mode on the dd1 and dd2 so yeah quite a bit cheaper there but you are getting a much lower quality overall in terms of presentation at least piece of equipment here now we'll get into the rigidity of this a little bit later on so stay tuned for that for sure but you can see what they've done here is they've used a carbon fiber reinforced plastic material I'm not sure whether it's exactly the same material that they used on the simplified quick release I believe that that was a glass infused plastic if I remember correctly don't quote me on this but anyway either way it's a recycled carbon fiber infused plastic material or they call it here in their notes is a carbon fiber reinforced polyamide I think I'm saying that right I'm not a chemist but a carbon fiber reinforced polyamide construction using recycle carbon fiber so yeah you can see that they've put a lot of work into it and they actually tell me that it was the it was this version of the quick release which held up everything basically because they were they were coming back and forth and you know really trying to make this as rigid as it could possibly be and you can see they've got all these plastic ridges throughout the entire thing here to try and give it as much reinforcement as it possibly can have it's got the same mechanism in here as well as you can see it does definitely sound a little bit more plasticky and toy like compared to these guys and this one I mean obviously you're going to expect that for a you know a plastic construction but yeah it'll be interesting to see how this guy Stacks up in terms of actual usage compared to the other two over here the uh just looking at it at face value I do have concerns that maybe we might see a little bit of flex just around where it mounts to the wheel because it's just you know I mean you can see how much reinforcement they've added there but you know that is going to be probably the weak spot if there is one but anyway we'll talk about that when we're up and on the rig in just a moment but that is the qr2 light there you go now my understanding and by all means jump on their website by the time you guys have seen this as I said this all should be live on their website so you'll be able to see for yourself so my understanding is that if you buy a CSL series steering wheel you'll have the option at this point of choosing whether you want to have the qr1 simplified quick release like what you see here or the qr2 light quick release you should have the option of the two without there being any additional cost if you want to go with the qr2 likewise with the club sport series again you'll have the option to choose whether you want the qr1 or the qr2 but I don't believe it's going to cost any extra for the adapter but again that's my understanding recording this ahead of time so just jump on their website and fact check that one now the other quick thing to be aware of here in terms of compatibility when it comes to the wheel side is that this upgrade path is only going to be available for the V2 style wheels that have that interchangeable quick release so just to give you an idea here you can see on this particular universal hub V2 we've got bolts that allow us to remove the quick release which is basically just this part here that you guys saw earlier on some of the earlier V1 wheels and they did transition across from this a number of years ago now so this shouldn't affect the majority of you guys but if you do have any old Legacy wheels that are designed like this with the quick release actually integrated into the Hub unfortunately there isn't going to be an upgrade path available for those wheels so if you do have a bunch of these wheels and you are looking at upgrading I would recommend trying to sell them as quickly as you can before this new qr2 system really catches on and starts becoming mainstream because the value of these wheels will drop in my opinion pretty quickly once phonetic products are actually shipping with the qr2 as the default stem on their motor shaft so yeah just be aware of that too but look I think that's pretty much everything you guys need to be aware of in terms of pricing and compatibility as I said earlier there will be some discount packages and upgrade paths available we don't have the details on those at the time we're recording this so just jump on their website to make sure that that is all clarified for you so for the time being if you're buying a fnatic wheelbase it will still be shipping with the qr1 style stem but at some point over the next one to two years they will transition across so that all the bases that they're selling will come pre-installed with the qr2 style stem I don't have any more details on exactly how that transition is going to look and you know what point you can expect to start receiving that but I'm sure that they'll communicate and make that clear through their own Communications as well but as it stands right now if you buy a steering wheel you'll have the option of choosing whether you want to have a qr1 or qr2 on the wheel side if you're buying a wheelbase it will still come with the qr1 stem so you will need to purchase the qr2 as an optional upgrade on top of that if you wish to use the qr2 ecosystem okay so there was definitely a lot to get through there in terms of how upgrade paths and things are going to work so hopefully you're still with me we're going to get into the juicy stuff now and explain exactly how this quick release works and what makes it different from what we've had in the past so this is the motor side part of the shaft and as you can see it plugs in exactly the same way as the previous qr1 did plugs into the USB C Port internally and I'll run you through that process a little later on and then for your dd1 dd2 you can see again this is the shaft that comes as standard and then this is a replacement shaft so it's a case of just undoing it sliding it out and we'll show you that later on as well so how this actually works in terms of mating with your wheel what you've got here is a somewhat conical shape on the front this is actually derived from a crontech quick release system I believe which is something that's been widely used in motorsport for quite some time now and then on the wheel side here you've got a matching conical shape in this CNC machined area here remembering again that they are both CNC machined it's just that this is CNC machined cast aluminum and this is CNC machined entirely from a Billet block as we described before but you've got these two rods here which are spring-loaded as you pull the mechanism back here you can see those retract and that locks in to the grooves on the stem as you see here now the cool thing is that if you remember back on the previous quick release when you installed the wheel onto the shaft you actually had to pull or retract the collar around here and then pop it on and let go of it with a new quick release you actually don't need to pull on that collar when you install it so all you need to do is and I'll make sure I have this oriented the right way so I don't damage things but you can see it's got a little bit of a taper on the top here so all you need to do is just push it in and it actually just slots in like so and that was really easy even without the leverage of having a wheel in my hands then to release it again just like with the old system you pull on the collar and it slides out like so now the first few mating Cycles are still a little bit stiff but it does loosen up quite quickly after that hopefully nobody's going to smack themselves in the face like is almost like an initiation with the qr1 quick release system I know I did it the very first time I pulled my wheel off I smacked myself in the nose and nearly broke my nose with the wheel if you've ever owned a fanatic wheel with the club sport qr1 quick release you know exactly what I'm talking about and have probably done the same thing so that's the basic concept on how it works now in terms of the electrical interface you may have noticed that internally here the pin assemblies are actually identical and that goes for the dd1 and dd2 version as well so it's actually really clever what they've done here they've allowed the same pin assembly to actually interface so that you don't need to change any wiring or anything like that on the wheel side now there is a little plastic adapter which you will need to change on the back of this and we'll show you that when we get into assembly process in just a minute but you can see internally the pin assembly is exactly the same as this slides on again because of that conical shape it guides the pins into the right alignment by the time they actually interface with this they're in exactly the right position so it slides in and there are no issues at all so yeah it's actually quite impressive to me how they've managed to take a design which is now you know very very old and come up with a way to improve that design without making it unnecessarily complex in terms of how you actually have to upgrade your wheels so that is the basic design of how things work let's now move across and talk about how we actually install these guys on the wheelbases and then we'll talk about upgrading the wheels and we'll jump over on the rake and give it all a try so let's run you through the upgrade process now for a CSL DD or gt DD Pro as we have on the table here now inside the box for the type C motor side qr2 assembly we have a replacement collar a little Allen key as well as some nice clearly drawn I would say rather than written instructions it's all kind of in a picture form but it does give you a clear understanding of what you need to do one little issue that I do have here and it's not a big deal I don't think but I would love to have seen them include you can see here it does tell you that the maximum amount of torque that you should apply to the collar is eight Newtons you don't have any way of actually knowing what amount of force you're putting on there they only include a little Allen key I would have loved for them to include a little torque wrench like this little guy here this actually came in the box with a bike that I bought for my little boy a couple of weeks ago and I was really impressed by it you can see it's just got a little gauge here which allows you to go all the way up to 10 Newtons so I'm probably actually going to use this to install this now the reason why I call that out is being important is we have seen and I haven't experienced it myself on either of my csldd or my GTD to Pro we have seen a few instances of people finding that the motor shaft actually works its way loose over time slides out from the assembly and the USBC Connection in the back disconnects and that can cause the uh the wheel to disconnect and become unreliable inside the game so look I I do think they probably are going to see a few extra warranty claims or customer service inquiries from people that are having issues with disconnections after they've tried to do this upgrade simply because people are going to either be over or under talking this you know trying to guess what eight newton meters feels like but anyway that is what it is so let's actually go through this process using the tools they provide and then I'll check it at the end with that torque wrench so what we're going to do is we're going to undo the little bolt in the side of our collar here we're just going to loosen that off righty tighty lefty Loosey as always there's no tricks here we're just going to back it off until that collar becomes loose and you can see now that collar is completely loose it's just spinning around freely now you want to grab the back of the base and literally just pull directly out on the shaft you can see that is how you remove the qr1 set that guy aside we're going to take off this collar as well we want to make sure we're using the replacement collar take that guy off loosen the little bolts on this guy so it slides on nice and easily slide it on like so it might actually need to back those off just a touch more that was a little bit more tension there than I'd wanted now one of the things actually call out in the instructions is you want to line up the separation between the two halves with the separation in the shaft as well so we're going to set that flat and then just line that up you can also see I do have a bit of a mismatch here it's a little bit more open on one side than the other so we want to even that up as well so I'm just going to spin around this way like so and I'm just going to actually I'll go this way and I'm going to loosen this side off as well just so we're starting with a nice even surface I'm just I'm being pedantic here because I want you guys to get this right the first time I don't want you to be having problems and breaking things so I'm going to be more pedantic than I probably otherwise would be but we want to get this right so that's about right there and then we should be able to just remove the little USBC cap the little plastic cap over the connection that exposes the USBC connection and then we're going to simply just slide this on making sure that we align the keyways here on either side you can see there's little parts that stick out on either side they're going to line up with The Gap in the middle so simply slide it into position click it in like so and then we're going to tighten this down evenly on both sides so we don't want to end up with it a skew so I'm just going to go remember I started from a pretty even Point here I think my both my sides are pretty even looking at that I might actually do a couple of turns on this side first so we go one tighter there and a little bit tighter on this side what we do on one side we kind of want to replicate on the other and you can see what I mean here like it I'm just kind of taking shots in the dark I don't know how much torque I'm actually putting on and I don't have a good sense of you know how much is too much and how much is too little so I might actually get out that uh torque wrench now and let's see if I got it right so I'll spin it around this way so you guys can see so what we're looking at is a little gauge on the side here and I'm going to pull it and basically what's going to happen here is as I apply enough torque that the arm of this is bending to the number eight marking there without actually turning the screw that is where I reach eight newton meters so you can see I actually do need to go quite a bit further there I'm going to do the other side again too a little bit tighter so you can see by guessing I was actually way off where it probably needed to be that there is about yeah that's about eight newtons on that side and then this side yep about eight Newtons before it starts to turn so that should be about right so yeah three observations having just gone through the process nice and easy to do there's no wiring or anything like that so it is pretty simple uh I do think that people will probably trip up and not do this up quite tight enough and have issues with disconnection so yeah just just be mindful of that and thirdly I do find it interesting that although this collar is for all intents and purposes performing the same function as the collar that came with the csldd and the GTD probe by default you can see because it's clamping on two sides rather than one I'm hoping that what that means is that this will also do away with the issue that we have seen from a few people with those disconnections as it starts to slide out over time so provided that you talk it up to the right spec hopefully won't see any issues that's not something we can comment on at this point in time but if we do run into any issues of course we'll let you guys know further down the track so that is the upgrade for the CSL DD and GT DD Pro let's move across now to the dd1 and dd2 so on to the dd1 and dd2 now very similar process here except in this case we do have some wiring we need to plug in as opposed to just a USBC connection so again we're going to just loosen off the collar here now they don't include a replacement collar in this case they only include the uh the Allen key and that is it we're going to loosen these off they are pretty tight from Factory so don't be scared just remember again righty tighty lefty Loosey that is really tight I haven't actually I have pulled these apart before but I haven't pulled this particular base apart so this is Factory tightness that we're dealing with right now I'm just going to get it to the point where it's a little bit loose and then I'm going to spin around and do this side as well this is probably going to be super tight too so ah there we go that wasn't so bad there we go okay that's nice and loose now so what we're going to do and you need to be really careful with this next step because you don't want to lose the wiring up in the back of the motor shaft that would be a very bad day for you so we're gonna carefully slide this guy out and we're going to unravel the wires like so and you'll see inside the shaft here we've got two connections we've got a long one and a short one now originally with the qr1 you can see they're actually color coded as well with the qr2 it's rainbow but you can see one is long and one is short we're just going to match that up so we're going to unplug each connection and it's as simple as just grabbing the outside here pushing on the little tab and unplugging and same deal with this guy here you can see it is very tight in here so it is a little bit of a risk of losing the connection inside the motor I'm going to actually just stay holding on to that one for now and then we're going to go long into short like so plug it in click it in position and then short into long again like so so it is important to note here that it is possible to plug these into the wrong connections they are both the same physical connection so just pay attention to which one's long and which one's short and make sure you match those up so we're just gonna coil that up tuck it back into the motor remembering again of course if you've seen our dd1 and dd2 tear down videos there is actually an inductive coupling system and Optical transceiver for data so these wires aren't just sort of spinning up and winding up inside the motor although it does kind of look like that when you pull it apart which does freak some people out so we're just going to slide that back in there gently like so Slide the shaft into the assembly as well like so we're going to butt it right up against here so you can see we don't want to have any Gap we're just going to push it all the way in like that so then with the collar exactly like what we did with the GT DD Pro and csldd we're going to line these notches up on either side or these halves up on either side so they align with the grooves in the stem here we're going to slide that all the way forward now the instructions are very clear that they want you to have this all the way forward and not pushed all the way back we don't want it grinding up against the metal here we also don't want it blocking the intake you can actually see that foam material in there the fan in the back of the unit actually draws air through so if we block that off we're going to restrict the ventilation and we could actually overheat and damage our motor so we've got that all aligned all correctly like so that is all fine and then we're going to do exactly like what we did last time we're going to make sure we've got an even gap on both sides and we're going to just go half a turn on either side until it's tightened up to the spec which in this case is actually 10 newton meters unlike the 8 that we had with the CSL DD and GT DD Pro so again they do only include unfortunately a normal Allen key so we will be making use of our little torque wrench again to make sure that we get this right I'll see if I can get this a little bit more accurate this time we'll see if we can get close having experienced it the last time so I'm just going to go three quarters of a turn on this side I'm going to flip it over and then I'll go three quarters of a turn on this one as well same deal again we don't have to be quite so careful this time because it is a metal sleeve that we're using rather than that carbon-based material that they use on their GTD Pro and csld so we'll tighten that down I think that feels about right let's see how close my guess was grab our torque wrench here and starting to move yep yep that's about 10 Newtons I could just start to feel it move there as we got to 10. so I guess that pretty accurately proud of myself there we go and yeah just starting to move there at 10 Newtons so we are all good the other thing you will need to remember with the dd1 and dd2 is you will need to recalibrate your wheel center back on your sim rig when you get up and running because it is just an arbitrary position that you end up in when you're securing this all down as opposed to the csldd and GTD Pro which is keyed so you're either going to be correct or inverted by 180 degrees when you get back up and running so it's as simple as that and you can see it's got this beautiful nickel plating that they've done here over the CNC machine aluminum which does have a really nice classy look so that's what the qr2 looks like installed on a dd1 and dd2 let's move on now and show you how to install the qr2 wheelside adapter on a phonetic wheel okay so if you've purchased a fanatic wheel in last year or so you'd be familiar with the fact that they ship their quick releases separately from the wheel itself and you actually have to bolt the quick release on yourself so the process here is pretty much a sign is just a couple of additional steps which you may or may not need to do depending on when you buy the wheel because again remember they will be transitioning across to qr2 which will change a couple of things which will be clear in just a minute so Inside the Box they include of course the quick release and a little bag which includes a couple of Allen Keys a little talks screwdriver as well for removing or for installing the replacement bolts which they give you for the little spacer inside as well as a couple of these little plastic spaces which are going to replace the metal washer which you'll see internally in just a moment so this is the part that newer wheels are going to start shipping with so you don't have to do this step and if you have a really Keen Eye you might have actually noticed that in our review of the new V2 CSL Hub they actually did have this style rather than the metal style but this will make clear in just a moment so the steps are really straightforward we're just going to loosen the bolts securing the existing quick release and again I'm only just using the tools that they include here in the Box we want to do this the way that you guys will hopefully be doing it now we're going to keep these bolts because they're going to be the same ones that we're going to use to affix the metal quick release in just a moment I should also mention while we're doing this too that the installation process is essentially the same well exactly the same between the between the pro and the standard and pretty much the same as well for the uh for the light version so there's no need to run through that separately so once you've removed all the bolts you may find that this is actually a little bit difficult to remove in my case it came off pretty easily and on this particular wheel you can see there are actually two plastic locating tabs on some other Wheels like the uh well for the for example the uh Podium Hub that we have here you can see that actually has six bolts rather than the four that we have on the former style wheel but the process is the same there's just four bolts instead of six so this exposes what I was talking about before with that little metal spacer so what we're actually going to do now is we're going to remove these four bolts remove this metal spacer and then replace it with the plastic one that's just going to make sure that the surface is made up correctly in the qr2 mechanism without putting any excess strain on the pins another thing I will mention here quickly as well if I spin the wheel around you will notice that one pin is a little bit shorter than than the others that is intentional there's nothing broken on your wheel so I thought it was a good opportunity to just call this out the reason they do that is so that the power connection actually happens last so all the data pins go into place and then the power connection is the last thing to connect so that you don't get any weird communication errors or anything like that so if you see one pin that's shorter than the others don't freak out it is completely normal and it's like that on every single wheel so what we're going to do now is take the other Allen key included in the kit and again just loosen off these bolts and unlike with the bolts around the outside these ones we are actually going to replace with the new ones that they include inside the kit because the spacing is a little bit different so that is fine so that is now removed then what we're going to do is just remove the little metal spacer and then we're going to grab the plastic spacer place it on top there and then take the replacement screws not the original ones you can see these if we hold them up side by side that is the difference between them so these ones have this flat area to go through the plastic so they don't chew up the plastic so we'll thread those in quickly now there are only four of these there is one that is not going to be populated you'll notice you might have noticed when we had this off earlier there isn't actually a threaded hole in that one position not sure exactly the reason for that but it is what it is we take our torques screwdriver and what I like to do is just go loosely in opposing directions just to make sure that everything's perfectly aligned and there's not any twisting force on any cables or any pins or anything like that so loosely down into position to get everything located correctly and then on the last one you can crank it down so we'll go crank and then we go opposite sides so Crank that one down crank this one down and then crank this one down and then just go around once more just to make absolutely sure they're all tight yeah it doesn't need to be crazy tight or anything like that and that's the more fiddly part of the installation done then we just take our new quick release and again it doesn't matter which uh which one of these you're going to be using the process is exactly the same we're going to use the standard one in this case now it is keyed differently here so you'll notice the top is a little bit wider than the bottom and that will match up with the cutouts or extrusions on the back of the wheel so we're going to just line that up like so locating pins in this case will align it correctly if you're mounting it to a wheel that has the six bolts then obviously you're just going to need to twist it and line it up and then we just replace the existing bolts back into position tighten them up again I like to go on opposing sides just to make sure that nothing is getting twisted a little bit awkward just because of the angle you can go in from the side if you want to but because these have got some the ball ends on them you can tighten them on an angle which makes it just a little bit easier to get them down initially and once they're rolling position we're just going to go around with a little bit more leverage doesn't need to be crazy tight there's no torque spec on these I don't believe so uh just did them sensibly tight but not over tight and that is it the new quick release is installed and I actually really like the black I think it just kind of Blends in nicely so anyway that is what it looks like installed on the wheel let's jump over onto the rig now talk about the actual interface between the two discuss any Flex or movement or twists or noises or anything like that then we'll get in and do some driving and wrap everything up with our conclusions so we've arrived here at the moment of truth now this is literally the first time that I've plugged a wheel into a base with the qr2 system I wanted to do this as a genuine first experience thing just to sort of capture my uh my impressions as raw as possible for you guys but before we plug it in let's just quickly have a look back at what the exact same scenario looked like with the qr1 with the same type of wheel as you can see here there is a little bit of movement in the base itself mounted on the wheel deck that's not what we're paying attention to what I want you to pay attention to here is the relative movement between the wheel and the base itself in terms of perception what you're feeling is that little bit of rocking in the steering wheel that little bit of metal to metal contact with the sides of the shaft there is also that issue in driving as well where you occasionally feel that clunk on changing direction as we discussed before but anyway back to the qr2 now the other thing that they pointed out as I mentioned before is that you don't have to retract the collar like this and put the wheel on like that you can just push it straight on so let's have a look and see whether it is going to work so we're literally just going to push it straight back click it into position and we're on okay no bent pins no problems it's detected the wheel immediately and well it works yep there is uh a little bit of flex still in the wheel itself which you expect if I really get into it but there is absolutely no rocking from side to side in the quick release mechanism itself let's go up and down as well see that little bit of movement in the base but relative movement between the wheel I mean you guys can see better on camera than I can see with my own Naked Eyes here looking straight on but in terms of what I'm perceiving absolutely nothing there at all so this is the this is the standard qr2 here and we will we will do these tests with the with the dd1 and dd2 as well but I wanted to test with the csld first yeah it does what it needs to do so let's pop that wheel off now so we're just going to pull the collar and pop straight off actually feels quite nice coming off as well it's got a bit of resistance and it just kind of goes punk straight off so let's plug in the Porsche 911 gt3r wheel as well this is using the pro version of the quick release and a larger diameter wheel too which is going to give us a little bit more leverage than what we had with the 270 millimeter formula style wheel so align the shaft again and we're literally just going to push it straight on there we go and that is on there's no movement for to back at all it's not you know loose in any manner like that and yeah I mean again there's a little bit of rocking I'm just trying to you guys can see again better than I can I'm trying to sort of see where so yeah that that's mostly what I'm perceiving there is just the base wiggling up and down a little bit on the platform but look the next point of weakness I would say is actually the rim itself so yeah the rent The Rim itself is bending you can see if you look at the relative movement across the rim if I pull on the top there the rim is bending before there's any movement in that quick release at all so yeah look it's it's doing exactly what it needs to do and again like you're never going to be putting these kinds of forces into it when you're driving okay so time for the qr2 light now on the csldd and GT DD Pro let's just quickly go back and take a look at what this simplified quick release qr1 looked like in terms of flex and now let's plug this guy in so we'll pop it on exactly the same way remembering again we don't need to pull on the collar we just pop it straight in Clicks in relatively nicely there no need to tighten up any collars or anything like that so that's already a significant Improvement but that is absolutely night and day compared to what it was before there is still a little bit of flex there and that appears to be just in the mating surface of the wheel itself I am going to actually test this quick release on a more solid Rim as well just to see whether there's any Flex inherent in the quick release itself because it's a little bit inconclusive here obviously you guys can see that there is still quite a bit of flex in the wheel but it feels like just looking at it most of that is coming from the wheel itself it's just hard to tell whether it's where it actually bolts on whether it's these plastic bits here that are bending or whether it's the rim itself so I realized when I went to install this on a more rigid wheel that because of that little plastic tab to disable the high torque mode on dd1 dd2 you can't actually install it on all of those rims so what I've done is the next best thing here I've installed the uh The Standard Version the metal version on the same Rim so what we can do now is we can put this guy on and have a look and see whether there's any tangible difference between the two so I'm perceiving and again you guys have a better picture of exactly what's going on here than I do because you've got the camera angle that gives you a better look but to me in my perception and what I'm seeing with my eyes the amount of flex here feels about the same it so I do actually think that it's the plastic housing on the wheel itself that's got that bit of flex in it rather than the quick release itself I do still have a few questions about the longevity with the in terms of just you know whether we might see some Cracks around the outside here obviously that's just something that we'll have to see over time but the important thing here is that this is a transformative experience if you've got a wheel that has the simplified quick release then this definitely will greatly improve the feeling of the wheel overall and there's a few knock-on effects from that as well in terms of how the force feedback is actually relayed through to your hands so let's move on now let's take a look at the dd1 and dd2 so for the dd1 and dd2 owners just want to quickly run you through the same process again I don't expect this to be any different whatsoever we might see a little bit less Flex in the shaft itself than what we get on the csld here because there's a little tiny little bit of movement in there but anyway let's plug it in so we'll do I feel bad putting it on this nickel plated it's it's so shiny and beautiful but anyway Let's uh see if we can scratch it okay that that actually does have a more satisfying click to it when you put the wheel on one of the things that I wasn't a huge fan of with the other one was that it didn't have that clunk when you when you plug it in it's just different it's not a problem but that actually was a little bit more satisfying I'll do it again in just a minute but let's enable talk here and that is absolutely Rock Solid yeah I am actually feeling a little bit less movement overall with this than what I did on the CSL did it I'd say that's again just down to that Flex in the in the shaft itself but as far as the quick release is concerned yeah there's nothing there's nothing going on there at all that's absolutely solid let's just spin that around so it's not trying to fight me all the time but yeah you can see the bass moves up and down a tiny bit as I really pull up and down on the wheel but yeah there's no there's no flex in that shaft and the quick release at all you can see a little bit of movement in the wheel once again but that is absolutely solid I'm just going to Chuck the um I'm just going to Chuck the club sport wheel on quickly too for you guys just for the sake of completeness so we'll plug that in actually did it damage it at all no there's a little bit of a scuff there yeah so it is gonna it is going to show signs of wear over time unfortunately but I mean that's gonna happen let's plug this guy in yep so that's in and yeah same deal no movement there at all that is just a solid as any other quick release that I've ever used I'd put that right up there with uh my zero play quick release the vrs quick release for example which uses a similar context style uh the acetatec quick release is really solid as well the cbq sqr as well that's really solid but yeah this is every bit as good in terms of rigidity so just for the sake of completeness let's Chuck the qr2 light on the dd1 dd2 just keep in mind here that if you are using the qr2 light on a dd1 dd2 you will be limited to low talk mode not a limitation on the GTD Pro or csld so let's put it on in exactly the same manner I don't expect to see any significant differences here but just so you guys can see for yourselves but yeah exactly the same observations as we had with the CSL DD a little bit less overall perceivable Flex because we don't have that little bit of movement in the shaft but otherwise pretty much exactly the same okay guys so if you're still with us this is the point in the video now where I'm going to share my subjective opinions having used this product for a couple of days now so we are planning on doing some more extended testing over time of course and we will of course let you guys know if you do run into any unforeseen issues but yeah if you if you're after the objective information so you can make your own judgment I know a lot of people do skip straight to the conclusion so definitely do go back if you have skip straight here to see you know how we've reached these conclusions because from this point onwards it is purely just going to be my own opinion based on the experience that I've had and of course your experience may be different now I also just want to quickly pause here as well to ask a favor of you guys too if you have found this video useful up until this point please do jump down below and hit that subscribe button and the Thumbs Up Button believe it or not only about 30 of the people that watch our videos are actually subscribed to the channel and subscribing is a really fantastic way even though I know it doesn't make a big difference to your experience it does make a big difference to how YouTube actually pushes out the content to other SIM races so if you find what we do valuable and you think that it could be beneficial to fellow races then that is an awesome way of helping support our work and making sure that more people see our content so we really do appreciate your support with that but let's move on now into the driving experience and my conclusions now with the with the qr1 system previously I've always kind of said that you know it you don't notice the flex necessarily when you're driving but it is definitely there if it's something that you pay attention to or you know look for now that has always been a reason why I've said you know even though fnatic does have a really well established ecosystem they've got a really large and mature you know selection of Wheels they've got really good compatibility with consoles and just general ease of use is generally pretty good with fnatic compared to a lot of other brands that we've compared with over the years that qr1 and the flex that's present there has always been a reason why I've sort of said you know maybe you guys should look elsewhere if that's something that you think is likely to bother you so I think the big question for me going into this was you know does this new qr2 system do away with that issue entirely is that no longer a reason to consider another brand if you're happy otherwise within the fnatic ecosystem so that's really where I've been paying the majority of my attention in terms of what I was looking for in the driving experience and I'm happy to say that honestly across lost the entire board here with all three of the wheel side quick releases and both of the CSL DTD Pro and the dd1 dd2 motor stems it absolutely has improved it to the point where I would put it on par with say the likes of the vrs the uh you know the zero Play Quick Release the moza quick release Sim magic quick release which has always been in my opinion the best in the market when it comes to OEM quick releases at least this absolutely does put it on par with that I would say that the the light version is more likely to have issues over time just because of the nature of its design as I said we haven't done long-term testing on this guy yet so I can't really comment on that we haven't run into any problems so far but I do have a few concerns just about the potential of cracking around where these bolts are because even though there is a lot of reinforcement there it's nowhere near as strong fundamentally as what you have with the metal versions of the quick release we'll find out over time I'm sure a lot of people are going to buy this one and you know this is something that's going to be shipping with all of their CSL Wheels you know into the future as well so if there are problems that's going to come very quickly apparent but look the build quality on this guy you know it is nice and strong it is nice and rigid and it definitely does make a more than noticeable Improvement on the Driving Experience you guys can see for yourself in the driving footage you know how much the wheel was moving previously compared to now and how that manifests itself in terms of the actual Driving Experience you do feel more granular detail in the force feedback you do feel more connected to the car overall and those are both things that you know if you're paying a lot of money for a direct drive wheelbase you want to be getting as much detail as you possibly can and I did honestly feel an improvement in the granular detail in the force feedback across the board with all three of these quick releases I was wondering whether it would be different on this guy but I can tell you that when I switched between the light version and the uh and the standard version on that P1 wheel there wasn't really a discernible difference in the amount of flex all the detail that I was feeling whatsoever so I think it's as simple as saying that the quality of the light version is about on par from what you would expect from one of the wheels in the CSL range anyway so I'd say that it's a you know it's well designed but definitely doesn't have the same user experience or quality I feel just little things like retracting the collar for example just feel more clunky on this than they do with the metal versions but you expect that for you know such a significant drop in price the important thing though is that it is far far more rigid in terms of what it communicates through to your hands in terms of force feedback compared to the qr1 light so definitely a significant Improvement now when it comes to the metal ones look really not a whole lot to add on what we've already covered earlier on in the video there is no difference at least to me and what I feel in the force feedback between the between the pro version and the standard version the pro version does feel that little bit nicer to slip on due to that PTFE coding that we described earlier but in terms of the actual driving experience once it's made it up to the uh to the stem no difference at all no at no additional Flex or anything like that so I'd stand by what I said earlier on the video if you want to be completely boiler and just have the best of the best then by all means get the pro but don't expect that you're going to be getting a significantly different an experience with the pro over what you get with the standard so in my opinion the standard is probably what you should be spending your money on as opposed to the pro for any wheel within the club sport or the or the podium range maybe just if you're stepping up to something like the Porsche gt3r wheel that's a lot more expensive you might want to consider spending the extra for something like this just so it looks the part but really other than Aesthetics there's not a significant difference between the two so across all the tests that we did the biggest Improvement was between the simplify quick release and the new light version that was where we saw the biggest difference in the driving experience that said though there was still a very significant and noticeable improvement with both of the metal quick releases again remembering that the experience between the two of them in terms of what it's like to drive with is identical so no real reason no compelling reason anyway to uh to upgrade to the pro over the standard but comparing that to the old uh Club sport quick release it does do away with that metal to metal clicking sound it does do away with that clunking sound that you get on rapid change of directions with this guy too and and even with the retainer screw installed I did personally find with these old stock quick releases there was often still a little bit of rocking from side to side that you could notice if you really paid attention absolutely nothing like that to speak of whatsoever in my experience with the qr2 so regardless of whether you're looking to upgrade or invest in a light version or a standard over the club sport quick release qr1 style I would say yeah definitely it's it's achieving what it's set out to achieve and it definitely makes a significant and noticeable Improvement in uh in every scenario basically so without rambling on too much here although I may have already done that uh look basically what it comes down to is this the qr1 was a a definite reason to consider other brands over the phonetic ecosystem in the past with the qr2 system now at least in terms of the rigidity I'd say we're looking at a quick release which is on par with the likes of say your simicube sqr your Acer Tech quick release your sim magic your your moza and so forth so no longer a reason I would say to consider other brands so if you like what the fnatic ecosystem has to offer otherwise then definitely worth your consideration if not then you know it's not really a point of contention anymore which I guess is as much as you could possibly ask for in terms of you know what we're looking for out of the qr2 but all that said there were a couple of observations a couple of areas that I felt like maybe things could be improved a little bit a lot of this is pretty fine nitpicking but you know we need to be fair we do that to other brands so we're going to do it to fnatic as well so let me take you quickly through the list of negatives I guess you could call the nitpicks is probably more of an accurate term so the first one is it doesn't have a particularly satisfying click when you push it onto the base I'll let you have another quick listen now and yeah you can hear that it just doesn't have that sort of slip and click into position like what you get with Sim magic and moza for example and even with the older qr1 system so if you're waiting for a really high quality yeah I plug that in maybe not something that you're going to be so impressed with the qr2 but once it's on there it's nice and solid so not really a major issue by any means I do think that with both the type C and the type M stems they do need to include some sort of a torque gauge similar to this guy as you saw earlier on the video it is very difficult to gauge exactly how much torque you should be putting on those bolts on the collar in both cases with the type C it was eight newton meters Max with the Type M it was 10 Newton in his backs but all they include inside the packaging is an allen key which doesn't really give you any point of reference so you don't know whether you're over talking or under talking and given that we have seen quite a few people having issues with the stem on the type C in particular coming loose over time and causing the wheel to disconnect I do think that they're probably going to see an increase in customer inquiries and service calls due to the fact that people will be installing these things and potentially not installing them correctly because they don't have the tools necessary to do it to the spec that's actually provided in the manual so again you know I don't want them to be adding cost to it I certainly wouldn't want them to put the price up for the the fact that they're including that part but I do think that you know if you have a torque spec if that's important then you should provide the tools necessary to do that for a product like this which you're expecting people that don't necessarily have a lot of tools laying around to complete the job so that is one little nitpick as well something that I think they could improve on the CSL DD type c version like this guy here does scratch quite easily we've probably put this through maybe 30 mating Cycles by now and it is starting to get a little bit scuffed up so I can only imagine what it's going to look like after a thousand if you're somebody that's changing between Wheels all the time I think inevitably this is going to scuff up even the nickel plated version that we see on the type M as well that does still look pretty nice but there are a few little score marks there where we've mounted it so again I don't really know how they could improve the design to change that it's just inherent and you know it's a race car part at the end of the day it's going to get marked but the reason I'm calling out is because I'm not convinced that the black anodizing is such a good idea I feel like inevitably that is going to scratch through to the raw aluminum underneath and when it starts to do that you is going to look a lot worse than you know a raw aluminum product to begin with you do obviously get marks on these ones but it doesn't stand out quite as much against you know a high contrast situation like black against silver so not exactly sure why they've gone with that they've certainly had their sweet time to develop it so I'm sure there is a legitimate reason they've done it but yeah I don't know what that is and I would have preferred personally to have a silver stem again a very small nitpick but a nitpick nonetheless now the Type M installation May bother some people just due to those really short connections it is a little bit scary trying to plug in one of those connectors because you're worried it's going to fall and get lost inside the base and if that happens it is quite difficult to fish out again so that may deter a few people from being brave enough to do it themselves it's not a difficult install by any means but go back and watching the video you guys can see the process for yourselves and make your own judgment there but just one thing that I thought some people might trip up on and then just lastly do just be aware that there is still a little bit of flex inherent in the motor shaft itself on the csldd and GT DD pro version so you do notice a little bit more Flex in the wheel feel on those than you do on the dd1 dd2 by comparison and some other competitive brand wheelbases so if you're comparing a CSL DD for example directly against say a Mazda R9 or a Mazda R12 even though the quick release itself is absolutely solid there still is a little bit more Flex in the shaft on the CSL DD and gdd pro than what you're getting with a Mazda R9 or R12 for example or if you look at something like an acetec or semi-cube although those are a little bit more expensive but yeah probably the closest comparison that I can make at least is with the Mazda R9 uh 12 a little bit more Flex presence so just be aware of that but again not the fault of the quick release just something that's inherent in the design of the wheel and it's it is a small amount again you can go back and see the footage for yourselves to see exactly what I'm talking about here but I did notice a little bit more Flex in the GTD Pro and csldd compared to the dd1 and dd2 and that is everything that I can possibly nitpick based on my experience so far as I said earlier it is still early days for this product we'll obviously have to see how it stands up against the test of time and do definitely let us know in the comments there's obviously going to be a ton of people that end up having their hands on these products so share your experiences down in the comments below so that people watching this video can be better informed than just my own opinion but having said that I really hope that my opinion on this product has helped you guys out and that all the tests and processes that we've taken this through have been valuable to you guys if they have please do hit the Thumbs Up Button as I said earlier please do also consider subscribing to the channel as well so you don't miss out on future videos and so YouTube knows to show this content to other people that might be looking to getting into SIM racing and if you do decide you want to pick up any of the products that we've talked about in today's video remember as well we do have those affiliate links down below those are an excellent way of helping support our work here at boosted media if you find Value in what we do so really do appreciate your support there and if you have any questions at all please do let us know down in the comments below I'll do my absolute best to answer as many of those as possible and if there's any recurring themes we might come back and do a bit of a follow-up video as well if there's anything that we've missed that you guys raise in the comments but thank you very much for watching as always guys and I'm gonna go get some sleep now it's been a long week we'll see you again very soon bye

Channel: Boosted Media

Views: 197,086

Keywords: Fanatec QR2, QR2 Quick Release, Fanatec vs SImagic, Fanatec vs Moza, Fanatec vs Asetek, Fanatec wheel, DD1, DD2, CSL DD, GT DD Pro, Gran Turismo, best sim racing rig, driving simulator, QR2 Review, Boosted Media

Id: PWvPYtYVhKs

Length: 61min 0sec (3660 seconds)

Published: Mon Sep 25 2023