Can this sad broken C64 be saved?

well hello everyone and welcome back to a Drees digital basement for today's video we're gonna be taking a short break from the compact desk pro series and we're gonna be looking at something that I do love and I know a lot of you guys do too Commodore 64 in this main board is a very butchered and damaged Commodore 64 mainboard that I got from my friend Brian he's had this board for over a year and hasn't been able to get it working when he got it it was sold as not working and had already had a lot of reworked and butchering done to it he tried to fix it and was unsuccessful so he passed it on to me and asked me if I could get it working for him so let's get right to it [Music] this Commodore 64 board is super abused and it looks like it's just had so much stuff done to it in the past so many of the chips are in sockets and that's just a bad sign because when you don't know what you're doing removing a chip can easily rip traces under them notice this is just tons of sockets all over this board but other chips that were clearly reworked or just put back on the motherboard without a socket it doesn't really make sense and it makes troubleshooting so hard this is the revision of c64 that I love because of the sharp video output it has the 8701 chip but check out this strange corrosion on the board I wonder what that's all about the little metal panel on the side around the ports it's just bent and so beat to hell I wonder what happened to this poor thing on the bottom of the board especially on the power RF session things look ok but over by the chips whoa it's very Brown and there's a whole bunch of wires where things have been budged already obviously due to over lifted traces there's tons of flux all over the place you could just tell this has had some bad quality rework done at some point in its life next I want to test the voltage regulators on this motherboard before I do that though I want to remove all the sensitive maas chips there is two reasons for this one is that the chips might be bad and bring the voltage rails down but also if a voltage regulator is screwed up it might send too much voltage into one of these chips and damage it I'm also going to test all these chips in another machine just to eliminate them as a problem alright let's plug in power and grab the multimeter we're gonna start testing two voltage regulators this one here gives me 12 volts and I'm getting that and the other one is 5 volts and that's also what I'm getting which is great I'm checking the voltage on one of the RAM chip sockets as well and I'm also getting a nice 5 volts which is a good sign so we have a pile of chips that I took out of the board I want to test these in my c64 with ZIFT sockets the zero insertion force sockets on this machine allow for a very easy testing of lots of chips first thing I like to do with this machine when I start to use it is give it a test on its own just to make sure that it's working because I don't want to be testing chips in a machine that's bad here's my diagnostic test cartridge it has both dead test and the regular c64 test on it I'm gonna use the regular one with Sven nice diagnostic test harness he sent me this will make sure this machine is working perfectly before I insert any of the chips from the other board just to make sure we have a known common denominator of a working machine it plugs into all the various ports on the machine including the controller ports just to make sure everything is working we power it up and everything should say okay on this test screen nothing should say bad first we're going to take out my msi Vic - well actually it's just a heatsink and stick in the one from the other board and we're going to make sure that it comes up with a good screen and it does that's excellent now one by one I'm going to test all the chips including all the RAM chips I was able to remove from the other board [Music] [Music] all the chips including the RAM tested perfect in my machine so let's move on to checking out the traces on this motherboard I grabbed my multimeter set it to continuity and let's flip this over and start checking out these traces I'm gonna start by looking at the RAM chips those were taken off and that's most likely where there's a damaged trace as we can see there's already three bodge wires so to test this we just start checking the continuity between all of the pins on each of the chips almost all of the pins are common across all RAM chips except for the two data lines you need to check your schematics for your particular c64 mainboard but usually pins 2 and 14 are the two that are bespoke and go off to different areas of the board while the rest are common on all of the chips all of them need to have a full continuity between everything or it's gonna have a problem and not work this is a simple test and should only take you a few minutes to do all of the pins in my testing I ended up finding a rip trace right here between these two RAM chips I also found on this socket down here that there was no power or ground going to the ground and power pins which is weird because the pins aren't broken on it so first things first let's put a bodge wire and fix this broken trace here on the back of the board let's just draw a mark where I need to connect that bodge wire between the two pins I'm gonna be using a solid core wire wrap wire to do the repair I've used this in a bunch of my projects you just need a fine tip soldering iron and you just solder it on between the doochlt pins you might need some tweezers because the wire is very fine and very fiddly if you want to be thorough in your repair put a little drop of epoxy or glue on the wire wrap wire to keep it from ever moving in the future check your work with continuity tester when you're done it's now time to use the dead test cartridge on this board I'm gonna have to reinstall chips but I noticed that the CPU socket is actually installed upside down the notch is on the wrong side there is a silkscreen mark on the motherboard to tell you the correct orientation so make sure you check that before you just blindly put the chips in at the minimum I'm gonna need a CPU a PLA and the Vic to chip to get the dead test working oh and on this computer I'm going to need the 8701 clock generator chip as well I'm gonna install all the RAM chips I removed even though I know one of the sockets has no ground or five volts on it it's still going to be a good test to see if dead test flashes and tells me which chip is bad with the cartridge angles powered up and we're just getting a white line on the left side which means that the video signal is being output so I know the RF modulator is working but we're not even getting any flashing this just appears totally dead so let's take a look oh look at the board there's got to be some other issues with it a lot of these solder joints on these rework chips look really crappy I'm gonna reflow them which will hopefully fix the bad Ram chip power lines as well but then should fix any of the other intermittent connections if there are any and yes REE flowing the solder on that one bad Ram socket did fix the ground and 5 volts to it unfortunately with my dejected look here powering up with a dead test it still results in just a plain black screen so there's definitely more wrong with this computer let's get started with more troubleshooting I have my oscilloscope on the bench I have my logic probe and I have the power connected to the c64 I have the schematics for this board up on the screen here just to help me so we verified that all the maus chips are good the RAM chips that are socketed are good I tested all the traces on the RAM and I fixed a couple of those that were bad and all that's left is the 74 logic chips which are socketed although brian whose board this is says that these chips all tested good so I'm just gonna assume that they are fine the voltages look good and I think the next thing I want to test is for the reset signal and there's a five five six timer right here and that generates the reset signal that holds the computer and reset when you power it on and then releases according to the schematics a reset signal comes out of pin 9 on the five five six and then goes into this 7400 six and is buffered and comes out of pin eight so with the logic probe on pin eight when I turn the power on it should be low for a little while and then go high alright turn this on and you'll be able to hear by the beep so that went from low to high which is exactly what it should do so the reset signal is working fine next we have the 8701 this is the clock generator chip and this has a couple clock outputs pin six on this chip is dot clock and pin eight is actually the color clock so this is pin 8 on the 8701 and we're getting fourteen point three 100 megahertz which is perfect that is the color clock and then this is pin six which is eight point one eight megahertz which is the dot clock and that looks perfect as well now let's take a look at pin 1 on the CPU which is the CPU clock and I'm getting 1.0 to 2 megahertz so the CPU is getting a correct clock all right back to the logic probe I'm gonna check each of the data lines on the RAM chips so on each Ram chip on pin 2 and also 14 is the ADATA line there is one RAM chip per data bits of course this is an 8-bit computer so there are eight RAM chips each one handles a single bit so I mean expect to hear beeping and not just a solid tone on each of these on pin to that's good that's just a solid tone on this Ram chip beeping is good that's good good that's good that's good so Ram chip to here which is not in a socket we just have a solid tone let's see how RAM chips to data line looks on the oscilloscope my oscilloscope I have it set for one's volts per division so when if you have five volts it's up near the top here and when we look at chip - we have pulses but we're only getting a little bit over a vault peak to peak so something is bringing the data bus down now it could be this Ram chip it could be something else on here the second data bit is connected to various things on the motherboard including these ROM chips but I know the ROM chips are fine because those are working so it's got to be something else that's on that shared data bus other things that share the data bus are the Vic - but we know that's fine PLA and of course the Sid but those are fine also sharing though is you 16 here which is a Maus 40 66 the schematic show that bits 0 1 2 & 3 are all connected to this chip and when I look at pin 1 I'm seeing that same low voltage thing going on so obviously that's data bit too hooked up to this but which chip is bad is it the 40 66 or is a dram chip now there's a few things we can do here I can obviously remove those chips see which one is failed but I can also cut legs on them and if I snip one leg it's easy to resolder that leg back on again if that wasn't actually the problem so I am going to snip the single leg on this 46 t6 here so the leg is snipped and let's power this back up and check with the oscilloscope what we see on date a bit too the voltage is still very low on the second date a bit so I don't think it was that ship I'm just gonna blob that back together with the soldering iron what I'm gonna do now is heat up the desoldering iron and remove this Ram chip so I marked red here on the chip that's going to be removed and notice that has a bunch of bodge wires clearly someone had removed that chip and put a new one on I guess without putting a socket on you haven't seen me use this technique before I have a video or I show it it's my way of doing it without lifting traces all right well the board is hot I'm gonna use this opportunity to clean up this mess with a chip out it's real easy to clean up the holes let's clean this off here it's messy flex residue off of this thing new socket okay so these bodge wires are just sort of sitting off to the side here let's see if these are actually connected or not so these two are connected here but there is a break over here on this socket where this purple wire is here that's that's broken and let's test this one sure enough that's broken as well I'm just gonna take these off these are these are crap wires and we'll put on new thin bodge wires you the pad is totally lifted on this one here it's just missing altogether alright let's see if this is working now alright bodge is reinstalled so let's install the dead test back into the 64 and let's turn this on I have the RAM chip missing and we should get flashing maybe maybe not if there's a ram chip we're bad and that were the only thing that we're bad this one right here then with the dead test in there we should get flashing to tell us that that particular Ram chip is bad so there's got to be another Fault on this machine but I'm gonna install a known good Ram chip into here and just see if what changes put a ram chip in from my test machine pull the diagnostic cartridge out and turn this on not really expecting it to work yes sure enough it's not working okay so let's check the oscilloscope so there is data line 2 which is looking good now no more crap on it there's that Ram chip let's go through all the RAM chips that looks good that looks good ok so at least all the data lines are proper voltages now nothing is held into an unusual state let's check the pin on the 46 t6 yep that's looking good as well this is the one I cut earlier and resolder okay some interesting progress and I'm not sure what's going on right here on the motherboard is the color RAM this is a static Ram chip it's used to hold the color information for the computer this is connected to the data bus through this forty sixty six and it also talks to the Vic - ship when I was probing around with a multimeter I noticed that one of the data bit lines this pin right here just looked very strange the signal didn't look normal didn't look like the other signals look the other three bits that are on here so I did as I took this Vic at which I know this Vic works and I lifted and I bent out the pin for that data bit line put it back in and I test it again and when I did look the same looks screwed up something something was wrong so it was leading me to believe is one of these two chips neither of them are in sockets and let's turn on the computer and would you look at that we're getting something that looks different than what we've been getting before is the power cycle it again it kind of randomly does different things now so we're getting a black screen now turn it off turn it on look now we're getting flashing and we're getting three flashes the fact that we're getting flashes indicates that the CPU is actually running well at least some of the time and it's able to run enough that the dead test is able to give that three flashes in white although look now we're not we're not getting anything let's check out that date a bit pin here so there's the data bit line that I was seeing the weirdness on and if we look at the other ones that are near it like that I figure that's how it should look this is one of the other data bit lines so is this here that looks normal one volt per division so five volts there and that one those are the four data bits that are on this two one one four SRAM chips but this that doesn't look that doesn't look normal but something that's weird is when I power cycle the computer and we actually get the flashing see if I can get it to do it again that that signal line looks normal see that looks a bit different look what's happening there whoa look at the eyes we actually have some picture here but the colors are all screwed up and that would imply either a PLA problem or the color RAM is messed up could also be the forty sixty six that connects the color RAM to the Vic to chip but I know for sure this Vic to chip is working fine I know the PLA is working because this could be a PLA problem too and I know the CPU is working so it's got to be either the color RAM or the 406 six now I've had a lot of trouble with tu-114 chips in the past especially my pets because it uses those for the video around lots of issues but I'm gonna assume which is the color Ram that's the problem I'd say that this color Ram isn't necessarily the original one there's a lot of solder around it there looks like it's been replaced at some point meanwhile the four oh six six here looks original I don't see any evidence of rework so I'm gonna pull this color I'm out of here this could be like a cheap Chinese replacement or something and let's pop in a different one so I'm really bummed out might es-100 soldering iron broke what happened is this part of the case cracked and now the power connector is flaky I guess too much stress plugging and unplugging this all the time I don't know is I'll take this apart and try to fix it but right now this thing's out of commission it started just cutting out randomly when I was using now it doesn't work at all so I took out the color RAM chip and I've installed a new socket right there so let's power this up with this chip removed and I want to see what that signal looks like without the SRAM obviously it's not gonna work without that but let's see what happens okay we're getting a single flash okay so there's this signal that was looking screwed up before its turn it off and on it's probably just not gonna work correctly cuz it's not loaded down with the SRAM chip yeah things just look weird right now without the chip in there so let me find another SRAM chip and populate that see how that changes things all right dug through my parts and I found some 201 force in a tube so let's pop these out I have no idea where I got these these could be china specials looks pretty good quality doesn't look like it's been repainted any see brand let's pop this in the motherboard here we go yeah it's still flashing one let's try that again I did test at least it immediately flashes just one flash and then stops so something's still very wrong maybe there was nothing wrong with this chip and it's this forty 66 instead at least it's consistently flashing every time as before it was just immediately crapping out this could be a red herring that normally tells you which Ram chip is bad but if it keeps jumping around to different RAM chips it could easily be another chip on the board that's sort of pointing you towards bad round alright well let's check out what the signals look like yeah look it still looks very weird that pin on there that looks normal that looks wrong so I think this tu-114 was fine and it's something else that's wrong and I'm going to guess that it might be this forty sixty-six so time to take that out now oh and guess what so this is the forty sixty six that's acting up pull I think might be acting up and looking at the back this this chip has definitely been reworked this has been restored the one next to it this one right here this one has never been touched this has an 84 decode this one is a Oh key part has a strange day code oh nine eight seven ninth week of 87 that's suspect to me all right let's pop that out okay so forty sixty six is replaced that's this one I put a new one in I put the original SRAM chip back in so it's in a socket now it's kind of nice let's see what happens when we turn this thing on now all right we got flashing let's check with the oscilloscope what those problematics sync signals look like this is the one this was the one that was all screwed up looking and you know what it absolutely looks completely fine now that was the one that had that weird pattern on it all right good everything looks normal so we're still getting flashing but at least that signal looks correct so forty sixty-six definitely was bad so I've looked up the flash code it's on my phone here I'm still not convinced it's the RAM so it's flashing one that says that's you twelve u twelve is one of the chips that I've actually tested and I know it works fine if we see other flash codes okay now we're getting four which is you twenty-three which is a totally different chip I have some known good RAM chips I just took out of my test machine let's change you twelve just for fun oh you twelve has really short legs maybe it's not making good contact with the socket who knows there's you twelve replace I know that chip is good so if we turn this on it flashes one it's flashing one which is definitely you twelve on this motherboard and I know this chip for 100% this chip is working properly so there is something else wrong on this board weak and I have to find so something I've run into before is the PLA this is a good PLA this socket maybe isn't good maybe there's a problem with the connectivity to this PLA and it causes all sorts of issues with the dead test with telling you you have bad RAM when you don't let's pop the PLA out and I want to see what kind of socket yeah the PLA has a single life socket so I'm just gonna hit it with some D ox it for fun let's pop the PLA back in just to see just for kicks and giggles no change all right to recap ded test flashes random number of flashes showing different RAM chips or bad but I took the RAM chip that it said was bad out put it my other test bench machine and it works perfectly so I know that's a lie it's gotta be one of these chips here that's causing a problem now I normally say the PLA is the issue that causes flashing issues like that but took the PLA out put it in the other machine and it works ID ox at this socket no change right I really feel like what are these RAM problems are gonna be these chips here the RAM is there and these are kind of addressed bus multiplexers this got to be causing an issue if we pop these out they certainly come out of the sockets really easily now again like I said Brian had said that these chips had been tested beforehand and they tested good and he did that in a mini pro so I'm not gonna retest these but one thing I notice is this socket here this is a piece of crap socket I hate these the chip that's in here has mangled legs that look like they were D soldered and they're shorter than they should be and I always find that these types of sockets do not work well unless the chip is in pristine shape so I think what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna hit this with some deoxys help the chips go in there a little smoother and then this is that really crappy socket just give it a good shove down I keep in mind you notice that this machine has no roms no CID and no CIA chips and that's actually fine you don't need those to run dead tests let's turn this on and see what happens hmm Oh oh my god there we go it's working look at that so there you have it flaky sockets I just reseeded those with deoxy gave them a good shove and push and now it's working so I've gone ahead and repopulated all the chips with the three roms to cia's and actually the sid chip as well this is the one Bryan gave me with this board let's turn this on see if this goes into basic Oh interesting so it's working but the character ROM is not making good contact the letters are screwed up take a look at this I would say that's a character ROM issue perhaps could be still one of these other ICS let me push on the character ROM that doesn't change anything let me push on these other ICS here we start the power here same thing well that looks very much like a character ROM problem I pull out the character ROM which pins are bent I turned this on we should just have a blue screen yeah okay that's what happens when you don't have the character ROM installed now fortunately the character ROM socket is a piece-of-crap socket just like the one we saw down there so let me try deoxys and I know this character ROM is good it works fine in my machine same thing it looks all corrupted ok keyboardist hooked up and I am able to type it's just the letters are all screwed up alright putting the diagnostic cartridge back in so it's successfully running the regular Diagnostics although you know the graphical corruption is still there but everything else is testing absolutely fine so it might be time to check out the c64 pictorial fault guide this website I found to be invaluable you just checked the pictures here and it kind of gives you an idea of where you might need to look okay here's one that looks like it is it's very similar you twenty-five look at the letters they're all kind of screwy and the colors are looking a little weird things like that so that could be you 25 oh wait a second this one really looks like what we're experiencing and that's you 26 and which chip is you 26 this one right here 74 LS 373 it's that really horrible socket with the chip it's got the shortened legs so I have a brand new chip here which has full long legs let's pop this into the socket see what that does Oh check it out it's worse it's much worse oh that's pretty hilarious but you know what when I push on it it changes I'm physically pushing on the chip right now and look it's coming and going I'd say clearly this socket is bad this is the bottom of the board with that chip there and it's terrible I might even see broken solder joints on there this looks horrible reflooring this might actually fix it I'm gonna put back the original chip here the one with the cut legs let's just see what happens I mean I don't expect this to actually work I'm probably just gonna have to remove that socket altogether yep still not working okay I'm gonna suck that thing out and we're gonna put a whole new socket in there hate desoldering sockets so much one thing I do is I cut them in half or in two sections makes it easier to try to desolder them because I can't use my hot air method and because I have this crappy D soldering iron okay so like that one came out unfortunately looks like one of the pads lifted right there so I'm gonna have to try to repair that should be easy enough okay so I'm looking at what I pulled out here and there's a lifted trace right there I'm not finding that on any of these pieces that means that probably whoever installed this originally lifted that trace and that's probably why it wasn't quite working sorry to break in but while editing this video I went back and looked at original footage of the motherboard when I first looked at it and there is that rip trace right next to the third pin up on the left side so if I just look carefully at this board originally I might have noticed that rip trace and been able to fix it save myself a lot of aggravation so if you're troubleshooting a board that has evidence that some of the chips have been replaced you need to pay extra attention to all the traces around those chips and look for potentially broken traces this could save you a huge headache if you notice those up front and fix them right away next I want to talk about the corrupted character issue I mentioned that it seemed like there was a problem with the character ROM but I knew that the ROM was good I wanted to point out that if I had looked at the schematics to see what connected the character ROM to the Vic to chip I would have seen that you 26 sits between the character ROM and the Vic - it was pin 8 on the u 26 that was ripped and I have marked in yellow the address line that would have been impacted by this even without knowing which slang was bad if I checked all the pins on you 26 with my oscilloscope I should have been able to see the problem and identify the fault this just goes to show how valuable the schematics are in troubleshooting so not only was this a crap socket but there was a lifted trace as well so now I just heat this up and then lift these pieces out which would be a lot simpler if I actually had a softer epoch turned that worked and I wasn't trying to do everything with this giant thing here here we go so this is a mess there's a lifted pad there's a couple of their pads that are screwed up there's another one that's just missing it's totally fixable but what a freaking mess so I'm gonna take a picture of this while it's off and then I'll put a socket on and then I'll repair the damage based on the picture okay I'm gonna just tone out a few things that look like they're actually damaged on here as well that's actually still okay and then this one here goes there yeah so a couple of these are damaged but I think it'll be okay once we put a socket on there I'll have to put at least one but potentially up to three bodge wires on there you so look in the picture so this pad is sort of up looking and it goes over here to one of these pins and it talks to that pin right there so I'm gonna check that that connection is okay and it talks up there so that's working so that pad is fine let's check about this one next to the you I'm not actually sure where it goes it's probably going to something over here so I'll just test all the pins okay that's talking to that pin without issue and let's check over here okay so those two are fine so that pin and that pain are fine they look really screwy they're definitely this one is messed up I could see this pad here was connecting right there to that via and it's totally missing so we're gonna have to add that in on the opposite side so there's the little bajra pair right there goes from the via to that third pin up so I'm gonna take the ratty original chip that was on this board and we're gonna put that into this socket these sockets work a hell of a lot better with chips like that that have already been disordered from a board I'm just gonna brush off any metal shavings that might be left wipe away any debris on the desk all right everyone moment of truth can't get the power and the video let's turn this on well would you look at that it's freakin working perfectly now yep fixed I'm just gonna go give this poor board a little bit of a wash with 99% alcohol over the sink let's get all that flex residue off of it okay I have the test harness connected and I'm reading some Diagnostics we'll just run a few passes the cassette ports not working is that the 6510 is bad let me swap the CPU with my other one see if that makes it better I think there's some other problem with the Borg is normally when you turn on the the cassette light comes on briefly on the diagnostic harness and that's not happening so something that controls the cassette is broken on this board as well yeah just as I thought it says bad on the cassette even with my good CPU all right here's the schematics right here for success so it comes out pin 24 it goes through a 1k resistor it goes through two different transistors and there's a diode and this is where the nine volts is basically sent over to pin three on the cassette port adapter here and on my little thing here there's an LED that will turn on whenever that signal is 9 volts here so we've got the logic probe so we're gonna start on a CPU pin 24 and I'm going to turn this on based on what I've seen Commodores it always comes on and will be probably low which will activate the cassette motor and then it will go high after you know I don't know if you a second or so low high yeah okay so that seems normal let's check pin 3 on the cassette port adapter here when I turn this on nothing there's no high there's no low there's no nothing on this so this large transistor here this is q1 and this is the main one that outputs to pin 3 right there so pin 3 there should go to the emitter and that is connected correctly and then the base on this one I think should be connected this is q4 the other transistor to the emitter and it is middle pin of q4 is going to the base over here it's directly connected I think this transistor is bad the emitter of q4 which is the pin on the Left is connected to ground or Niska maddox and it is but then the center pin is also connected to ground at 0.26 ohms so I'm an electronics novice but I'm gonna go on a limb and say that the emitter and collector shouldn't be shorter together with zero on this transistor so I am going to suck this out and we'll put a new one in and get the cassette drive working so I just tested this transistor out of the board and there was no more short that could mean only one thing when we look at the schematics the collector and the emitter were both shorted and that's on ground and this goes up to nine volts but if this diode C r2 was shorted to ground then that would cause a fault as well and right here is C r2 and now it'll be trivial to test I'll just take the multimeter and see if this is shorted yep shorted so it pays to read the schematics at least I didn't damage this transistor so I can put that back in without any issue all right let's take this diode out of here I'm gonna reinstall the transistor first okay he's back in his place so on this diode there's a little squiggly line on the one side of the arrow and that indicates that this is a Zener diode the little squiggle line between a Schottky and Zener is pretty similar so it's good to not to confuse these two together looking at the original schematics it calls for a six point eight volt Zener diode and what's going on here is this regulates the nine volt power supply inside the c64 down to about six volts for the cassette motor unfortunately looking through all my spare parts I don't have any Zener diodes at all especially one that's six point eight volts like this so there's no way I can repair this circuit I talked to my friend Brian and he doesn't care that the cassette port works on this so I'm actually going to remove the Q one transistor entirely that way there's no accidental way that nine volts will get sent to the cassette motor which I'm sure wouldn't be good for it I am 100% positive that replacing this shorted Zener diode with a new six point eight volt part would repair the cassette port completely on this unit so I'm gonna leave it at that and we're gonna call this machine fixed otherwise I say the last thing I'm gonna try to fix is this horse sad plate here it's just bent and messed up I'm just gonna unscrew it and bend it back there we go a lot straighter the power switch is actually reach we have to push your finger in there before to get to the power switch power switch is now good and it's not all loose and horrible so here is the poor ravaged c64 mainboard looking fine once again and here are the two bad chips from the board where as usual I'll be throwing them into my bin of bad parts I've taken out of computers over the years so thanks to spends diagnostic harness I know this motherboard is working well but I decided to sit down and play some games on it anyways that's when I discovered one final problem there's something very wrong with the sid chip on this board most of the music channels that come out of it are very quiet and there's just occasional bursts of sound take a listen if you've watched my previous comment or 64 repair videos you know I always run this Donkey Kong game and the music that we're hearing here should be from Donkey Kong Country which is a pretty great tune but it's not sounding so good here so let me just stick in and know one good sit into this machine so I can actually play it and enjoy some games [Music] [Music] [Music] well that's it for this video and this c-64 is definitely fixed keep in mind that I am a total novice and have never been trained in any kind of repair or electronics so of course some of my methodologies are probably weird and not correct but they do work for me so if you found this video interesting or helpful in any way I'd appreciate a thumbs up if you didn't you know what to do you can give me a thumbs down please put your comments and suggestions in the comment section below and of course you can subscribe for more videos I put them up periodically and there might be some other ones interesting for you in the future thank you very much for watching happy holidays and Happy New Year to all of my viewers goodbye [Music]

Channel: Adrian's Digital Basement

Views: 451,389

Rating: 4.9572539 out of 5

Keywords: C64, commodore 64, retro computing, tutorial, repair, instructional, desoldering, dram, VIC-II, PLA, MOS chips, MOS technologies

Id: 0MP93YbINyI

Length: 41min 49sec (2509 seconds)

Published: Sun Dec 22 2019

Reddit Comments

[u/Maklarr4000]

I love Adrian's videos, he's a blend of persistent, informative, and he's got a buttery smooth voice to boot. That C64 is in the best of possible hands.