Restoring a John Deere B | Part 1 | Getting it running

all right the trailer's out hooked up to the truck you know what that means time to get another piece of junk tractor got the tires aired up gonna start loading stuff up so we can head out tomorrow morning [Music] leaking oil now [Music] [Applause] [Music] hey hold on stop i'm going to time stamp different things that happen in this video so you'll be able to see it along the timeline of the youtube video and then also down in the description below so you can skip to the interesting parts so [Music] all right so right now i'm taking apart the hubs because they have a lot play [Music] so i got this tension pretty good now the only play is coming from the bottom uh here this bushing um so next this half inch bolt half inch well what are we doing we're taking the tires off [Music] me two [Music] so [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] so [Music] so the key is to get it all in one weld don't weld some and then weld a little more and then weld a little more especially with flux core now quench it hit it with some pb blaster because if you weld a little bit then weld a little bit what ends up happening is the the weld isn't as strong and you want to get it hot and looks like we got this one first try and you know it's time to stop when the nut starts melting you'll be able to see it [Applause] looks like we got that one first try as well all right so i got one two three four five six seven that is that one it it'll be fine there's a strap a metal strap that goes across here that holds it down i don't think there will be any problems with leaking uh and either way i probably won't use that uh upper housing i'm going to use this one and i have a second radiator this one the lip looks better all right there we go radiator on decided not to use the one with the water pump because the water pump radiator pipe goes out a different spot and wouldn't fit through here it's important to do things right the first time as you can see in this video i'm using silicone instead of loctite 515 which is what i should have used even though the loctite 515 costs about seven times as much as the silicone i did end up having to remove this gear cover because it started leaking on the bottom and used loctite 515 [Music] [Music] so [Music] and we're back to where we were before with no extra spacer and if i had read this manual right before it says do not forget the spacer oh yeah shellac a new gasket to cover shellac is just the type of gasket maker they used before they had the silicone so even in the manual it calls for not using silica i mean not using another gasket now washer and nut on the drive gear so when i have this first reduction gear cover off again to reseal it i actually replace that bearing that goes in behind the castle and washer there now it's best to buy bearings for pretty much anything by looking at the number on the bearing rather than going to like john deere for example and trying to buy the bearing so i was able to get a 16 pack of these new departure 3204 roller bearings for only 30 and they were the nice made in america new old stock ones whereas if you had gone to john deere it probably would have been at least 30 dollars for just one i'm using new grade 8 5 16 bolts so i want to try and get a bushing for this clutch lever but first i have to beat out the bolt i'm just gonna try and use the air hammer that was easy too easy here's the clutch lover yeah it says she's a little worn out [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] may notice a slight increase in video and sound quality that's because i'm using a uh legitimate camcorder anyway the parts are back from the machine shop for the john deere b head and cylinder about a thousand bucks i'll show the head a little more when we put it on but here's the cylinder looking good there's a tiny bit more pitting in there and that's because their pinning was so bad that even though we went 90 thousandths over 45 still had some pitting here's the new pistons this so i'm all set up to get this together just have to clean up the gasket surface and then we'll be good to go i got the cylinder crankcase surface all cleaned up now i have a brand new old stock john deere gasket here's the part number i'm gonna use some of this gasket sealant extra protection perfect [Music] i got it all the nuts are on torque them down about that much is good hold them all down crisscross there's four packages of piston rings they're labeled where they go fifth groove is the bottom first groove is the top of the pistons i just went and got a little container and put some just 1040 oil in there you don't really have to soak the rings like this you can i thought it would help some people commented on my tick tocks and said it's not a good idea but i did it just put them on the old fashioned way the notch faces up these pliers are a little small for these big rings but i'll make it work and i've been putting these in the cylinder and checking the end gap um it's not like this is a turbocharged high compression engine so it's not that big of a deal but i've been checking and they've all been fine all right there's all the piston rings on it's important to know which which way the connecting rods go so this side is up on the connecting rod because i have the marks here marking which cylinder it goes in and this side is going to be up on the piston because that's this side that the notches are on so just make sure i remember that it's a tight fit it's important to make sure your piston pins are in all right now our rod piston assemblies are ready to be installed in the tractor all right i got the piston and the um piston ring compressor ready to go in i offset the rings about a third a third a third put a little bit of oil in there make sure our dot is facing up [Music] so [Music] so got to do that one by hand after that it should be easy [Music] and it should just go right in and bob's your uncle [Music] [Music] torque them to about 50 foot-pounds first [Music] then in the manual doesn't say what torque you should bring these to but about 72 is what i've read on forums and stuff [Music] and then uh i need to put cotter pins in these on this side at some point these were changed i got the cotter pins on the number two cylinder but on number one they're not they don't have holes in the bolts and these notches are obviously too small to put a cotter pin in so i'm gonna clean them off with some brake clean use some uh some loctite thread locker uh now it spins over without too much effort i got all the head studs installed with a little bit of the blue thread locker and then i use the two nuts to put them in make sure all the debris or anything that's in the pistons is out ready to put the head gasket on stuff just wants to dry right out on the metal perfect to be installed [Music] so these nuts are supposed to be torqued down to 96 foot-pounds i just torqued them down to about 60 as a first stage now i'm going to go to 96. so [Music] all right i'm ready to put the manifold on these are all new studs and new gasket drop manifold on and then i'm going to put some anti-seize on the bolts and then i'm going to use brass nuts heck of these 7 16 14 thread so these bolts there used to be screws here holding this oil feed line on but i'm replacing them they're just quarter 20 so i'm just replacing them with bolts instead of screws the oil feed line tighten down [Music] sometimes you have to go backwards to go forwards yeah the radiator can't be in the way to put this fan on [Music] [Music] [Music] well you can't even see this one [Music] time to set the valves step one is to get the cylinder that you're setting at top dead center hold the wrench on the adjustment bolt tighten the lock nut on the intake just a little bit of drag now we'll roll the engine over exhaust valve open intake valve open going top dead center we'll check them again and they're good so now we're all set to now we're all set in here and we're ready to put the valve cover on so you need nuts like these that are two-sided a little bit shorter than this and they go in here so you can bolt down the rocker assembly and put these bolts on and you're supposed to have copper washers on here but i have to take this all apart so these discs [Music] so so that's my dude i [Music] well this is unfortunate but one leak right there you can see right where it's coming out right there and then it's just kind of flowing across and making it seem like there's leaks there but i think it's just that one so i use this flux and this acid core solder and should be in there good enough i guess we'll have to find out oh we got it you can see we're full to the top of the core and we have no leak what's dripping is just left over from before so i thought there were multiple leaks but it just flows along the fins and then drips in a different spot so we're good so here we are screwing around trying to get this tractor started what we were using was a wicco xb distributor and we called john brillman wondering like what our problem is we have spark on the spark plug but it's not starting he said the coils go bad and if you don't have a really strong spark it won't spark in the cylinder but it will spark in regular atmosphere so in this next clip we ended up just putting on a delco remy distributor that had known good spark it was off one of the other john deere bees i have and that ended up working [Applause] and we also used a 12 volt battery we don't have an extra 12 volt battery you can just hear the allostromers in the background running we just have booster cables all right there it how is we got it it's just running on 12 volts over here you

Channel: Andrew Hanna

Views: 38,745

Keywords:

Id: NePBgtl1Tkk

Length: 35min 43sec (2143 seconds)

Published: Sun Dec 26 2021