RESTORATION OF MISSION OAK DESK

[Music] hello and welcome back to roster Woodworks I'm gonna nice quarter-sawn mission arts-and-crafts deaths are early 1900 or so the base is in pretty good shape at the top it has some water staining and the blue drugs are coming apart so the top is gonna need some work now the base just do some cleaning I haven't quite decided whether just to do a waxing or maybe do a recode with shellac or something on the side after I clean it see what looks like it's after its cleaned now the drawer front there's a spot here that's gonna be some touch-up and it's got some nice knobs on it okay I've got it flipped over and I'm gonna start taking the screws out others quite a few screws around the edge I first started with the drill but I couldn't quite get a grip on the screws and you switch to a regular screwdriver you okay I got the joints all cleaned up scrape the edges and got in there with the sandpaper and cleaned all the glue out of the groove now it's like a tongue and groove joint now when I was attached to the desk only one joint was completely loose but I did test the joints put it in the bench vise and just kind of bent the top a little bit and what a joint popped apart so I've got that one right here test fitted I'm dry clamping now I'm only gonna glue one joint at a time I'm gonna glue this one first and once that's set overnight I'll glue the other one it's very difficult to line up these two joints at the same time I've got it clamped blocks on top and bottom to get it lined up and got the bar clamps in here and it's fairly tight except for right in the middle here if I can do a little filling you okay unclamped it up for about three hours inside it was safe to in Clampett I left the alignment blocks in place now I'll just repeat the same procedure on the other joint you now on the other glue joints they were just slightly separated but they weren't loose so I'm gonna put some sand on acrylate glued down in the joints I'm using the thin cyanoacrylate and it wicks itself down into the joints and I'll wipe off the excess and use the accelerator okay to reinforce each joint and decide to put some splines on each glue joint these will be completely hidden once the top is reinstalled these are just regular biscuits and then I trimmed them off flush now I'm getting ready to sand the finish off the top just to demonstrate how much of a warp there is there's kind of a cup in each direction I can straighten this out later and each individual board has a slight cup to it so I'm just going to go after it with some sixty grit paper and get the old finish off the top as stated earlier each individual board that the top is made of has a slight cup to it so I'm gonna make some passes across the grain to try to level out the cup in each board and try to level the whole top out okay after finishing with the sixty grit paper there's quite a few black stains there was a big white stain right here but that disappeared so I'm gonna have to do something about these big stains so I'm going to try some bleach I'm gonna mix up a two-part bleach and treat it with some bleach okay I brush down the bleach I'm just gonna let that sit for a few hours after sitting for a few hours the stains are a little bit better so I'm just going to neutralize it with some vinegar okay I did a little more sanding I went up to 100 grit on the with the orbital sander stains are much better the bleach worked out pretty good and it did some rough sanding on the edges I'm going to finish cleaning them up then now before I do any more sanding I want to get the top clamp down onto the base I'm gonna get a reattach to the base as it has a pretty good cup to it I don't want it sitting unattached for very long okay let's back up a little bit while I was working on the top I got the base cleaned and before I cleaned it I took off the little stub Tenon's that stick out there just decorative and I'm gonna mark them where each one of them goes and this is just the usual process of TSP and warm water and a little scrub pad and give the whole base a thorough scrubbing actually end up going over it twice okay I've got the top lined up and I clamped it in place I'm going to install the screws on one side only at this time then I'm going to take a clamp on the opposite side and pull the top flat and then reinstall the screws on that side okay well working on other parts of the desk I worked on the drawer as well the drawer bottom has a split now I'm first gonna take the drawer apart take the knobs off there's one nail holding the drawer bottom and slide the drawer bottom out now the rest of the drawer bottom was stuck in the groove so I just tapped it a few times in the bench and the whole drawer kind of fell apart now I'm just going to glue the drawer bottom back together there's two splits make sure everything gets lined up properly and a little bit of clamp pressure and then wipe off the excess glue then I'll reassemble the drawer check it Foursquare now there's one little hole in the drawer bottom I just filled that in with some wood buddy you okay I've got it flip back over there's a couple spots that need filling so I'm just gonna fill it in with some wood filler now I'm going to continue sanding with 120 grit paper now on one side of the desk here there's some small paint spots I'm gonna take a razor blade and try to get those spots out of there you and I decided to do a light sanding some 220 I'm just gonna go over the whole base with just a light pass with some 220 after finishing with 120 I'm not quite happy with the top I'm gonna do one more pass with the bleach before I do the final sanding and it's the same procedure as before I put the bleach on I let it dry for a few hours and then neutralize it with vinegar okay I've moved it down into the finishing room making one final pass over the base with the maroon pad and vacuuming off the dust and then enough to tack off the dust they don't get to put some shellac on it I'm going to put four or five coats on I want to see what the color is before I do any staining on the top you okay after a few coats of shellac I can see what the final color is now that's gonna look fantastic now that's nice original color now the next step is to finish the top I want to match the top to the base now first thing we're going to do is mask off the bottom and I'm going to hit the top with 150 grit paper okay after finishing with 150 grit paper the wood has no color in it so I've got to put the color back into the wood and start with the red mahogany dye and get the orange background color back into the wood okay after doing the dye coat I put two coats of shellac on now I'm scuff sanding with 320 gold and I'm gonna get ready to do some staining I was testing out some different colors and it came up with one two thirds mahogany and one-third walnut and I'm gonna do one final sample here I put some of the red mahogany dye on a piece of oak plywood they're gonna do one final test sample and I'm gonna go over and compare it with the bottom of the desk and it looks like that's gonna be right on the money but first I'm gonna do a little sampling on the edge just the check and it looks good now go ahead and stain the whole top then what sustains dry I'll seal it with two coats of shellac okay after putting two coats of shellac on the color is just a little bit lighter that's fine better to be a little too light than a little too dark I can always darken it up so I decided to do a second coat of the same color stain two-thirds mahogany and went there and walnut I'm going over the sealed surface this should get me really close to the final color and it is but it needs just a little bit of darkening so I'm going to do a black glaze this will be right up to the final color no I'm gonna do it another scuff sanding and I'm gonna fill in a few small little cracks with some soft putty this is a dark walnut soft putty and then wipe it off with some naphtha and then a few final coats of shellac after the final few coats of shellac and now I'm gonna wax it I'm gonna do a final scuff sanding on the whole piece then follow up with a gray pad this is similar to 4'o steel wool then vacuumed up some of the dust and then I reversed the vacuum to blow off the dust around the insides and wipe off the dust now I'm gonna rub the whole piece down with the dark mahogany paste wax and lastly is to put those little Tenon's back in place I numbered them some of the numbers got obscured but I could easily find out where they go they can only go in one place I've got to scratch off some of the shellac so I can put a little glue in the middle so dahab hold in place you now this came out absolutely fantastic as you can recall I just cleaned the base and then we shall act it and actually there really wasn't any kind of a finish on the base I was pretty much tied down to bare wood after where I was cleaned it so just had the original I'm assuming a fumed oak color in mission oak furniture they fumed the oak to darken it so I'm assuming that's what the color was but then a Rochelle acted and it came out to a fantastic color and of course it had to do quite a bit of work on the top get that all straightened out get the boards glued back together and get it to kind of flattened out and then color matched it to the base and got a dead-on match and of course got the knobs back on do a little repair to the drawer got those little Tenon's back on I put a little glue on those and cut those back on [Music]

Channel: ROSS TAYLOR WOODWORKS

Views: 155,194

Rating: 4.8146505 out of 5

Keywords: ANTIQUE RESTORATION, MISSION OAK FURNITURE, FURNITURE REPAIR, FUMED OAK, CLEANING FURNITURE, REGLUING TABLE TOP

Id: L4uMQeibTGQ

Length: 19min 43sec (1183 seconds)

Published: Thu Jan 30 2020