Restoration Adventure, 1946 Baby Champ Radio Receiver!

hi everyone and welcome to another episode of Mr Carlson's lab today we have the entire restoration process of a northern electric baby champ radio receiver from 1946. lots of detail in this video for you it's a really great performer you're going to see that in the end when we try it out after this entire restoration and it is a pretty big restoration so I hope you enjoy let's get started this is the little Northern electric baby champ radio receiver from 1946 that we're going to bring back to life today and make this thing work the way it did when it rolled off the factory production line the case itself is in pretty good condition it has the typical white paint overspray I don't know how all of these Brown Bakelite cases always seem to find white paint overspray over the years but this one has some white paint overspray on it that will end up cleaning up a sticky surface there that uh somebody stuck something on here other than that the case has no cracks and it is in Fairly Nice condition one other thing I should mention about the front here is you'll notice that there's a lot of models out there with this neat little design on the speaker that only have two knobs the one with the three knobs means that it has the short wave band in it you can see the short wave band down here which is a nice little feature so if you're going to look for one of these baby champ receivers always look for the three knobs that's the one that at least I prefer unless of course you just want the am broadcast band that's a little bit more excitement to the radio receiver you can listen to signals from around the world on shortwave prehistoric internet right so the back side of the radio receiver is in pretty nice condition you can see people have been in here before and the cord does not look original that'll get replaced with something safer and I'll talk about that the antenna lead is coming out of the back here that wire feels like it's pretty old so take a look at all of that so in order to get working on this thing you need to get this out of the case and in order to do that the first thing we need to do is remove the knobs because this will just slide out of the back side you also want to be very careful around this little plastic bubble window so if you're going to ever set this on the face make sure that there's nothing sharp on the surface and make sure the surface is you know nice and soft if you push this in or Dent any corner of this you're going to have a permanent dent in that little plastic window so it's very soft as you can see I can I'm pushing on it right now you can move it in and out just by doing that all right so to get these off basically you just give them a pull and uh that's not too bad and there you go antique dust these actually aren't too bad sometimes they really fight in times where they do fight sometimes you have to put a cloth in here and you get some pliers that have a bent nose like kind of like needle nose but bent needle nose pliers and you get in there you can kind of pull them off like so it'll be very very careful though because you don't want to mark up the bake light cabinet and to get this out I will grab a screwdriver here and again this looks like this has been those are actually kind of loose so these are all different so I'll end up cleaning that up as well this one looks like a combination of a slot head and a Robertson type of screw something that you'd find in an electrical box or something like that this one so it's that's very long as well you can see that there yes Robertson in a it's a standard slot there uh one thing you want to be very careful is that if the screws don't thread nicely into the bake light Don't force them or you'll end up doing what happens to a lot of these you'll put a crack in the case and um then you're doing a lot of work on it now one of the saves for this is this one here was just a standard brown bake like there is no paint on it but these things also came in an ivory color and if they came in an ivory color that gives you your save so basically it's just painted Bake Light so if there is a huge crack in it a lot of the times you can fix it with epoxy and then sand it or even use automotive body filler and do a lot of work on the cabinet but you know you want to avoid that if you can right all right so these things should just fall out of the back here so what I'll do is I'll put this on its back and I'll lift this straight up so let's move that out of the way lots of antique dust in there and inside it's actually looking not bad the speaker is looking very good here so that can just be moved down and glued there's some dead bugs down in there some dust and dead bugs that we'll need to be removed and on the top side the chassis just looks like it has a coating of dust so that's uh you know the typical wax on the Transformer you can scratch with your finger here you can see that dirt and wax mixed so all in all this is looking pretty good So the antenna runs into these so this is obviously going to be the antenna coils uh one little trick when you're working on these receivers this is something that you learn over time working on these things is that you'll see this antenna coil has lots and lots of wire on it you see that they're hoping you can see that there's lots and lots of wire on it here where this one is has a lot less wire so we're going to have an antenna coil for the broadcast band and we're going to have an antenna coil for the shortwave band so the shortwave band is a higher frequency so higher frequency equals less turns so there's less turns of wire on this than there is on this so immediately we know that this is the broadcast band antenna coil and we immediately know that this is the shortwave band antenna coil and this would be to tune these coils at the top we'll go over that in a little bit it's a standard All-American five vacuum tube complement or very slight variation of so usually the two glass tubes here so rectifier and this will be the audio output tube here and this will be the detector in AVC and uh first audio and I have amplifier and then this will be the converter tube basically an oscillator and mixer and on the bottom it's looking very original so it's kind of hard to hold this in this position here so what I'll do is I'll reposition the camera here and uh stay I'll reposition the camera here and we'll take a closer look at the bottom and I'll explain what's going on here and I talk about some of the modifications to make this just a little bit safer and I'll get into the component replacement and we'll make this thing work give it a tune and uh see if we can hear anything on the short wave bands too maybe we can listen to some signals from across the world on this little receiver from 1946. here's a closer look at the underside of the radio chassis here and many of the components that need to be replaced in order to make this thing a whole lot safer make it dependable and just plain old make it work properly so one of the biggest failure points in all of these radios and amplifiers and televisions and test equipment and everything is always capacitors I think it still is a problem today it seems to be capacitors are the thing that fails and everything and then of course it destroys other components in this case these are paper and foil type capacitors not to be confused with paper in oil so there's a lot of confusion there and I think that comes from the term leakage so people when they talk about leaky capacitors people automatically picture the capacitor leaking a substance like oil well when people talk about capacitor leakage most of the time it's an electrical term the capacitor itself is leaking DC across it when they start to fail that's the failure point and then when they leak DC across them what they do is they get hot they boil a wax and then blow the end of the capacitor just like what's happened here and that's what goes wrong with all these things so that particular failure point is known as parallel resistance so you can look at that as a fictitious resistor placed across the capacitor not to be confused with equivalent series resistance or ESR this is known as parallel resistance and this is a completely different test for these capacitors now whenever you come across capacitors like this it's not even worth testing them unless of course you just want to do it to see how bad the failure Point actually is and I do that quite often I like to see okay you know all right this is the capacitor that really caused the failure in here so if you're into I guess you could call it radiophorensics that's one of the main reasons to do that but whenever you see an actual capacitor like this they all need to go now if somebody's worked on a radio and they say they've sold it to you or whatever and you've purchased one and you've opened it up and you still see one maybe two of these things in here and they say it's restored or repaired it's not they all have to go no questions asked they all have to be replaced so this has to go this has to go this has to go this one has to go this one has to go these three have to go and the electrolytic itself has to go as well now I'll leave the electrolytic capacitor in there for aesthetic reasons on the top so that it looks original but on the bottom side I'll put some brand new capacitors in many people like to re-stuff the electrolytic and that's absolutely fine so what they do is they take the old one apart and then they hide new capacitors inside it and that's absolutely fine if you want to do that I like to put the capacitors on the bottom side of the chassis so in the future if they ever need to be replaced it's as easy as taking them out and putting some new ones in you don't have to you know re-disassemble the can and do all that again so when I repair these radios I repair them to use them I don't repair them to fix them and then just put them on a shelf and look at them I like to actually use the radios or if it's a repair for somebody else I like to make these things as dependable and usable as possible so that it will last you know as long as it can so the only variable what I like to say the only variable I like to leave behind is the actual vacuum tubes themselves so vacuum tubes of filaments in them like light bulbs and of course you know filaments do open sometimes now contrary to a popular belief the vacuum tube is actually one of the most Dependable components in these old things they seem to last longest when I repair these radios I would have to say that the majority of the radios that I've gone through all the vacuum tubes are fine it's always components on the bottom that have failed and sometimes the components on the bottom destroy the vacuum tubes on the top so it's kind of a chain reaction so it's another reason if you get one of these older radios and it hasn't been restored you don't want to just plug it in because a lot of the times if you plug it in it's the last time what ends up happening is you know you'll see some smoke they call it the Magic Smoke will come out and capacitor will go away or the filter will short out and then what it does is it destroys the rectifier tube so now you have to buy capacitors and tubes on top okay so I'll talk a little bit more about that and I'll try and find some data on this these radios usually I just go through them and work on them and I get them running and explain exactly what I do and I really don't need data sheets but I'll try to find something here so that it will help explain what's going on in here as well and I'll talk a little bit more about safety with these things as well these are known as transformer-less sets so they don't have a transformer in these things to isolate the actual chassis from the AC line so that's another thing that needs to be taken note of if you're going to start to try to work on these things you want to learn about them first before you start working on them and learn about that aspect of the AC line because in some of the cases with these radios the chassis itself is tied directly to one side of the AC line and the line cord that's put on the radio isn't polarized so you can plug it in either way so you have a chance of plugging this thing in and having the chassis being on the hot side and that leads into a topic of isolation Transformers and repair safety as well so that is a complete other video so do your research before you work on these things let me do the dangerous stuff if you're following along you're doing so at your own risk all right just be careful so what I'll do actually right now is I'll try and dig up some paperwork on this thing and see if I can find a schematic and some other data and maybe we can go through that together and I'll explain a little bit more about the components oh here's a little quiz just before we go remember what I told you about the coils on the top side of the chassis all right on the bottom side of the chassis we have two coils here these are going to be the oscillator coils the oscillator coils will be under the chassis so using what I told you about the coils on the top side of the chassis which one of these coils is the the oscillator coil for the shortwave Bend and which one of the coils is the oscillator for the broadcast band all right so here's the answer remember lower frequencies have more coil so they have a lot more wire on them so this will automatically be the oscillator for the broadcast band and you can see that there's a lot less turns on this you can see this is lots of fine wire here wound and you see that there's a lot less turns on this this will be the oscillator coil for the short wave band so there you go you've learned something already just about coils on this so anyways I will get a schematic and hopefully I can find one I probably can't have bothered looking for one but I'll look for a schematic and stuff and uh see if I can explain this uh pointing to a schematic in some other data for you Northern electric was nice enough to provide a radio service bulletin to whoever wanted to work on their radio equipment way back when there's enough information in this radio service bulletin that you can actually build this radio from parts and pieces and people did that way back when they would grab parts and pieces and build their own radios and they would even build their own televisions and test equipment and all that kind of stuff all the ham radio gear most of it at any rate was all home brew way back in these days everybody would build their own stuff quite a different time from now so they would provide this information for you to basically keep their equipment up and running can you imagine a company nowadays supplying a radio service bulletin with a schematic of their equipment a wiring diagram or in today's speak a component layout map and a parts list with complete alignment procedure you think you'd ever find that for your modern television or anything like that not a chance lots of information on here to make this thing operate again the schematic nice thorough schematic we'll go over this in just a moment talk a little bit about the design and the way that the engineers were thinking when they designed this some pretty smart engineers so a wiring diagram so if I zoom in onto this we can already see that they've replaced some parts I'll just touch the focus here so pardon the focus hunt for a moment you can see that all the capacitors are all aerovox capacitors all over the place well if we look in the underside here we can see that these are not Aero Vox I'll just touch the focus again pardon the focus so these are not aerovox they're solar capacitors so these have been replaced and this resistor here is a ceramic wire wound resistor that has obviously been replaced as well that's a modern part that would be replacing this large carbon composition style resistor right there and complete parts list telling you the values and everything even tolerance ratings and if you wanted to order the part rate from them you can actually order they're a little part number and they would send you a little packet with a resistor or capacitor in it isn't that nice alignment details in-depth alignment details to do this now these are very easy to align and I'll show you some shortcuts here as well that'll just make this so much easier sometimes people get very I guess you could say turned off by these alignment procedures they look at it oh how am I going to do this it's so easy well and I'll show you that here so let's take a closer look at the schematic I'll get that day in focus and in frame here and I'll talk a little bit about their design and uh one of the nice things about this radio receiver which makes it a little bit easier of a restoration one of the things that I immediately noticed about this design and it just is the sign of good designing the northern electric Engineers really knew what they were doing way back when is you can see the line that's closest to the chassis all right so this is coupled to the chassis through a capacitor here and this is chassis ground so the line that's closest to the chassis does not have the switch in it they put the switch on the other side and that's very very smart nowadays when you want to replace the line cord on this it makes things so much easier you don't have to do all this rewiring most of the other All-American 5 radio receivers that you'll come across they switch the side that's closest to the chassis and there's quite a big rewiring job and I've shown this in many of my other videos this you can very easily just put a polarized plug and then in order to keep things that much safer you make the side closest to the chassis solid neutral all right so this is fixed neutral now because you have a polarized plug and you're switching the hot side so basically no rewiring right there whatsoever very very nice and again very smart because if you were going to ever use a polarized plug again it keeps the chassis closer to neutral very very smart you can see right here they have a capacitor in line with the antenna way back when people did all sorts of funny things with antennas in order to try and get reception so if somebody ever tried to backfeed AC into this thing or anything like that you wouldn't destroy the antenna coils so many Communications receivers have fried front ends so they've taken out all the coils because people have done some really silly things with uh with antennas connecting them to all sorts of funny things so very smart to do this here now what they've done here is they use a 35 Z5 and a 35l6 now where I say that this is very close to your standard All-American 5 design and it this differs from it a little bit is most of the time they would just use a five zero so 50 L6 in this place and then eliminate the resistor here but in this case they've actually installed a resistor in line and they're using a 35 volt tube and a 35 volt tube here so 35 volt means the filament voltage all right so that's the amount of volts that it takes to light the tube up to bring it into emission okay so whenever you see 12 that means that the filament is 12 volts so so 12s A7 12s K7 12 sq7 so you can add all of this up right so you know 12 24 36 and you can add it all up but you'll find you'll come out a little bit short and that's the reason that they've put this in here so they would normally again just use a 50 L6 and that would be absolutely fine technically you could just replace this and get rid of this resistor if you wanted to but we'll keep all the design the same and keep the 35l6 in there instead of putting a 50 L6 in just you know it just the design is very nice it's nice and you know very well laid out you know the way that they explain everything they show you know the broadcast position so they show the contacts that are connected for broadcast and then when you click the Switch these move over this way and then it would connect these other two here to give you the short wave bands very standard design very very clean it's just uh really good they're using a permanent magnet in this so it's not an electromagnetic type of speaker just uh really nice just very very well you know designed the way that they've drawn it you know the negative side of all the electrolytic capacitors is would be theoretically in the in this time attached to the neutral side just you know just smart typical Northern electric stuff very very good so now I'm going to get into this thing and start replacing parts and bring this thing back to life and then we'll go through the alignment procedure and we'll see how well this thing performs you know I bet you this thing is going to receive like you wouldn't believe all right let's test some resistors here so let's start with the 22k resistor here so I'll just adjust the range on the meter here and let's see what this uh 20 percent 22k resistor is gonna test that 23.3 not bad not bad now keep in mind that these are in circuit and there might be a bit of noise getting in here as well so 23.3 is not bad at all for that again 20 tolerance right so let's test uh let's see which one Let's test this one 2.7 K now this is right across and electrolytic so our results will vary here but let's uh try it anyways so I'll call that 3K not bad 2.7 3K we're doing all right Let's test uh this one here what's that uh that one is uh 2.2 Meg all right so I'll move the scale back up over here put this one onto here and clip this one onto here now again keep in mind that these are in circuits so a lot of leaky caps around not bad 2.2 Meg not bad at all so so far it looks like most of the resistors are fine and by you know looking at the actual chassis itself and the way that this has been kept it's been probably stored in a controlled environment somewhere on somebody's shelf it hasn't been in a garage or an attic so it's probably the reason that these roundies are okay these are a very porous style resistors and you know they're really subject to moisture aggression over time so if these are kept in a garage or something like that they really do move around in value so just by testing those three I know that this has been kept very well and of course there's no rust on the chassis and you know there's very little dust on it so you know that uh you know this has been rather well taken care of so I think we're going to be probably pretty good for most of the resistors as I'm changing the Caps out and if I do find a bad resistor you know as I go along I'll test all the resistors with the um you know with the capacitors removed and things like that and if I do find them I'll show you which ones have been replaced so when I start replacing the components in here I just pick a corner and start going so I'll grab my desoldering tool here I'll start with this capacitor here Heat this leg up sometimes you need to add solder to these in order to make them work just a bit better that wasn't didn't even have to heat it up it was just touching there it was basically tacked into place we'll Heat this one up here and desolder this over here sometimes the solder is just horrible stuff so you have to actually add solder in order to make the stuff let go let's put it that way there we go so there's one of them that's coming off in fact the paper tube is actually coming off the sealed tight capacitor here as well so anyways that's what's on the underside so now what I'll do is I'll just take a brand new capacitor actually what I'll do is I'll probably test some of the resistors that are on the underside of it as well that would be a better thing to do I had another capacitor on the bench here and I just moved some stuff around and now it's gone here it is so this is the one that we'll end up replacing it so I usually take some of this piping and put this piping on here and then I'll install that back into place there I've also marked the outside foil end on this capacitor so that's already done that's done with this little device right here which you've seen many many times on my channel so we'll put this here for a second just for the fun of it and let's uh see what happens here so this is red red yellow which is 220 K ohms so let's go from here to here and see what we got that's pretty high a little higher than I'd like even though it's a 20 tolerance resistor and then of course you know being nice to it giving it some uh 295 is a little bit too high so here's a 470 K ohm so that one actually has gone down in value just a bit 440 or 455. so yeah not too bad I'm not too worried about that one there this one here feeds the plate supply of the 12 sq7 so that's what this one's doing so you want this as close to 220 as possible in order for the amplifier section of this tube to work correctly this is 220 ohms and it's gone up to 240. so yeah there's a couple values in here that definitely could be changed is this one under here what does that look like looks like another 220 on the bottom there let's see if we can get a reading on this one here so 245 so there are values in here that do need to move some some can stay some can go so they're not all that far off but um yeah this one here is uh that's definitely out so that'll be one of those resistors that'll definitely get changed and this one here this is the cathode resistor on the 35l6 could uh be taken down just a little bit as well the new capacitor that will go onto the cathode here will just go directly across this I'm not going to run a lead over to this area the new capacitors that I'm going to install will be installed right here so it'll be in this area on a little terminal tie strip and that'll allow for very easy removal in the future so that's what I'll end up doing and I'll also end up cleaning this uh one terminal off over here as well the one that uh capacitor was just kind of tacked into place so this old solder is uh sometimes really really hard so you add new stuff then it's absolutely fine after that so a lot of the times it's kind of hard to get in there so you can see that cleared the little hole out there and then a little hole on the top over there is also cleared out where it was vacuumed vacuumed out so at any rate I'll just keep on going that's basically what this whole thing is you're just going through and you know methodically and slowly taking your time replacing components with the correct values and um in the end you end up with a working radio so I'll keep on going and I'll be back when I have most of these all done the work on the underside of the chassis is pretty much done at this point I haven't put the line cord in yet because I still have cleaning up to do and I don't want to cord hanging off of this while I'm doing that I've also removed the antenna wire as well there's a couple interesting things to note about this those Northern electric Engineers were really on top of things the screws that hold the the back piece on you can see these little screws here that hold the back on they're not connected to the chassis they're insulated from the chassis which is very uncommon for way back when and I I thought it was kind of interesting that the back was still intact and it was still there because in a lot of these older radios not particularly this one but in a lot of these older radios the back is always missing you know people take the back off to replace the tubes and they get lazy and they don't put the backpack on well they've actually soldered the screw to the nut so that you can't remove this so it's a solid piece and I would imagine that's the only reason that the back is still on this thing so this is completely insulated from the chassis you can see that uh it has a little fiber washer there so really the only way to come in contact with the chassis is you'd actually have to insert something through this or of course the antenna the lead that comes out that you would run off to an antenna but that's isolated by a capacitor as well now of course those capacitors are long since gone bad and it's been replaced but very interesting very interesting for this particular year most of the radios the All-American five radios way back when you know they had screws on the bottom of the cabinet they'd make everything else insulated but there would be screws on the bottom that would go directly into the radio so you know and things like that this thing is almost completely isolated from from anything so they did a really nice job as I say you know they were really thinking when they put this thing together that is a nice touch you know that they they soldered the screws to the nuts there so that you can't lose the back oh and even the the actual screws that hold the chassis in are held by the back of the radio so when you put the radio back into the case it's held by this again insulated this this holds the entire thing into the case so pretty interesting so one of the safer designs of the All-American five uh you know type of radio for way back when so uh just uh to show you here I'll grab an OHM meter I'll explain exactly what I've done with the with the radio here quite shortly as well so I'll just turn on the ohm meter here and put this on well you can see it there maybe I'll get a little bit better into Focus here all right so I touch the leads actually I can make it beep too let's do that let's make it beep okay so if I touch the chassis and touch the screw nothing nothing so pretty neat they were on top of things way back one so it's a nice little nice little touch to keep this uh radio just a little bit safer than the other ones now of course there's been lots of other things that are gonna well there's lots of things done at this point there's going to be more things done to make this even safer I.E the polarized line cord and of course it has safety capacitors there's a safety capacitor in here which just replaces their standard paper and foil cap and there's even a a safety cap that's going to run out to the antenna connection here as well so the antenna connection goes up to that little area there and then Runs Out so uh yeah just uh kind of neat to see so it's going to make it a little bit more difficult for me to clean the back side of this because you know this is soldered in place but I'll get in here and I'll clean all of this stuff out all the cobwebs out and I'm going to remove the speaker as well and that'll help me to get a little closer into the chassis there and I can clean the chassis just a little bit better so getting the speaker off is very easy so you can see I've mounted the two new filter capacitors right here on this terminal tie strip so I've used one of the screws for the speaker to hold this down so whenever it comes to replacing these capacitors extremely simple remove one screw and this whole thing just comes right up and you can replace the Caps that simple so design for you know I guess with the future in mind just in case uh they ever need to be replaced now these are very good capacitors and they have a very very uh you know High hour rating and uh good Ripple current ratings as well so you know these will probably be in here for the long term but um at any rate to get the speaker out I just unsolder this red wire all right see this little red wire runs up to here unsolder this red wire and then I unsolder this blue wire right here and then take the two screws out and the whole speaker will just come right out of there the set here foreign foreign foreign foreign foreign foreign foreign about to clean this little switch in here so this selects from the broadcast band of the shortwave Bend and I use a product called Tarn X for that and what this stuff does actually keep the bottle tight and I'll just show you here this is the stuff right here it's um it is a pretty aggressive cleaner so so I just take a Q-tip and dip it in some of the Tarn X and then just work away at this you can already see results and get a little bit better light on that it also helps to let it sit for just a little bit as well kind of hard to see you have to move the switch around a little bit as well to get it in the small areas here you can already see it's taking the tarnish right off of that more sure that there's none of this on my hands so you can see there it's taking the tarnish off I should also mention once you've finished using the product to clean the contacts you need to very thoroughly wash this area out and when I say thorough you need to make sure that there is no residue Left Behind whatsoever so I usually wash the area out a couple of times and then I'll lubricate the actual switch itself after that's all done that's been done right now so definitely don't forget to do that step if you use that anywhere on any contacts you always have to wash it very very thoroughly after you're done fixing this little cardboard gasket around the speaker here is very easy all you really do is just take some super glue put some super glue on the cardboard and Away you go let's put a little bit here smear it around like so and then just press it back into place now I also have for the super glue and accelerator so I can probably just give it a quick blast of the accelerator and then that'll hold it a lot of the times the super glue it's takes a while especially on cardboard a quick shot of accelerator there we go and that fixes that up pretty nice once the dial face is clean the pointer has to be aligned mechanically before any electrical alignment is done so right now the capacitor the tuning capacitor when it's this side it's fully meshed all right and then when this side it's fully open all right so let's align it on this side so that's right to the stop there so all I need to do is put this on and make sure that it's perfectly even from side to side so right about there now what I'll do you can always just give it a bit of a fine tune so now what I want to do is I want to fully mesh the capacitor and make sure it ends up in the same spot all right so yeah it's very close and give it just a bit of a tweak right about there and I think that would be it and there it is so now that's aligned and now it's ready for the electrical alignment to align the oscillator to what the dial actually reads the chassis is complete at this point so all the work on the chassis aside from alignment is done you can see I've installed the line cord so I've put a vinyl grommet in the back here and the line cord runs through a vinyl grommet now from the factory they didn't do that they have a nice rolled Edge this is the same as this little one over here they have a nice little rolled Edge that they've installed here and that's usually okay for the line cord but I just feel better having the line cord run through a soft surface instead of having it make you know direct contact to Steel here so that little rubber grommet is a nice cushion there's two tie straps acting as a restraint so they're both pulled together and tight on the cord and before I'm done this will get a dab of Super Glue as well you can see that's very tight there's no movement there whatsoever there's a strain relief right here and a movement relief so there's just basically a turn one turn as it goes down to the bottom of the chassis the neutral side is fixed and it runs closest to the chassis here so there is no break in the neutral line like in many other aa5 radios so this is tied directly to this point it's not tied to the chassis but it is closest to the chassis it's isolated from the chassis by a capacitor the hot lead is running into a fuse there's a fuse in some heat shrink tubing down here and then from the fuse it runs up to this switch over here so if anything was to go majorly wrong that fuse would go so it's just a little bit of added protection another thing that the radio really didn't come with so I always like to fuse everything as I was talking earlier the two new filter capacitors are installed here very easy to replace the removal of one screw there's even room left between the resistor here so you can get a screwdriver down in there just pop it up and just desolder both legs and you can have those capacitors replaced in minutes so that's nice and easy there's a uh another capacitor here normally it would have been this one right here but the cathode capacitor here for this is just tied directly to the cathode there's no reason to run a wire all the way over here anymore because this is the size of the capacitor right here just a really small cap so all most of all the values have been replaced resistor wise aside from two resistors there's one resistor here which is a 10 Meg Ohm resistor which is so spot on there's no point in replacing it and there's another one Meg resistor down under here which was right spot on everything else I went through and replaced since I had things desoldered at the point I was you know removing capacitors and things so I figured if I've got them both you know desoldered why not just pull the resistor out two and put a brand new resistor in so as you can see there's a lot of brand new resistors installed all over the place here over here as well so all new caps all over the place here one here and this one right here and this resistor here is nice and close and it's a ceramic value so I opted to leave that in which is kind of nice so this here will probably end up getting pretty warm so it's uh you know to be found out I imagine it'll get hot that's the reason the other one went away right it's in series with the filament so it's bound to get pretty toasty so at this point on the other side of the chassis let's turn this over here you can see it's completely cleaned up and it's looking really nice so all that needs to be done now is since we want to make this thing perform like it did when it rolled off the factory line we definitely want to make sure that all the tubes are nice and strong I figure since we want to see how well this thing performed back in 1946 why not just give it a complete brand new complement of vacuum tubes so these are all strong they've all been tested they're right out of the box so this should give us a really really accurate representation of how well this little receiver really did perform let's see if it'll come to life what do you think let's find out so right now it's on current limit as you see up here and the Very Act is just right to the max so we should get a little bit of dim bulb glow I think the switch is on it is here we go so that's normal the bulbs that you see glowing here is normal for it to be doing that so you can wait a few moments here for the tubes to warm up and the bulbs aren't changing it has been on here for a little bit so there's zero sound coming out of that speaker which is not a good sign so it's not coming to life so let's see here usually when there's zero sound coming out of the speaker that means that you see this is lighting up just a little bit so it is coming a little bit better into a mission when there's zero sound that usually means that either it's something to do with the audio output tube or the audio Transformer because they will buzz or hum just a little bit in all cases so let's see what we can find here let's just see if there's any B plus happening on the bottom side of this the very first thing I want to do is see if there's any B plus so this is the ground here so there is B plus let's check the plate of the audio output Transformer and there's the problem right there so the primary winding in the audio output Transformer is open was fast usually is that easy when the speaker makes zero sound it's usually that so now we get to remove the audio Transformer and maybe go digging and see if we can reconnect any connections inside there the wiring to the Transformer is very stiff so it may have worked when I got it and then of course me taking the speaker off and cleaning it moving those wires around just a little bit I may have actually caused this so who knows uh let's open the Transformer up and see if we can resurrect it and if not I'll just have to replace it I've already desoldered the two leads from the bottom here so I'll just desolder the two from the top side foreign there is the little audio Transformer so I'll get the radio out of the way let's see if we can find the issue with this little thing since we know that the primary is open in this Transformer there's a really good chance that the winding is broken off the lead out wire that's just because these wires are so rigid now back when this Transformer was made these wires are very soft and you know you can move them around with no problems well you know the wire is I don't even know if it's a vinyl wire it feels like a vinyl wire is just it's hard so chances are the movement of the wire is actually broken the connection in the Transformer now I want to make is uh I guess you could say I want to do as little damage to the Transformer as possible so I either want to open this side if this is a if the wire is open here and then fix it from there or open this side and fix it from here I really don't want to peel the whole thing back and really start digging where it's unnecessary so now again this is just a guess it could be an actual in the middle of the winding it might actually even be open who knows at this point we just know that the primary is open so what I've done is I've attached two of the probes that I've created and this is great for finding this kind of stuff so this here is a signal injection probe and this here is the Carlson super probe so these are both projects that I've designed and released on patreon quite a quite a while ago so what I'm going to do is I'm going to use this probe to inject a signal into the Transformer and I'm going to use this to receive it so essentially this is the transmitter and this is the receiver and this is great for finding open windings so I'll turn the volume up here they give you an idea Okay so so this is the super Pro picking up this right now okay so I've got both of them both of the commons attached to the core of the Transformer and if one of the wires is open and not connected to the windings inside the signal won't go through this and basically this will act somewhat like a shield whereas if the wire is connected you know the winding is winding around here so I should have more pickup at this side so what I want to do is put the super probe here like so just like that I'll just leave that I can use a little speaker wire to hold it there and what I'm going to do is bring this close to each wire and we'll see which one makes more noise so we get a bit of noise here and a lot of noise there [Music] so chances are this blue wire is the one that's open so what I'm going to do is turn this down turn that off so what I'm going to do now is very carefully get a knife and open this one side and see if I can find if the winding is basically broken off of this wire here so I'll do that here I'll just get some tools and I'll be right back and I'll show you that process foreign well there you have it so that's obviously the issue so now if you look here you can see the little wires soldering onto it see it right there broken so now we know that it's going to be in here somewhere so now we'll have to reconnect that so that's going to be poking up through here somewhere and we'll have to find where that little wire disappeared that's how fine those wires are so it may have even come back down this other side so I'll have to carefully look for that little wire and see if I can locate it oh that might be it right there right here that might be it either that or it's a little reflection actually using the camera to see this might be it right there looks like it might be so maybe we're gonna get lucky here all right I'll do a little bit more digging and see if we can resurrect this little thing okay so it looks like the wire is still there there's a wire right here so what I need to do now is tin the end of this little teeny wire can see that there so I'll tin the end of The Wire because there is a coating on The Wire right these wires aren't bare or they would short out the Transformer so there's a coating on it and by tinting the wire it allows me to basically burn that coating back a little bit and then I can test from this lead to here to see if that it is actually open so if that was the side that was open or if I just made more issues let's find out so okay that's probably tinned yep all right I'll grab my meter here let's see if we're going to be able to resurrect this Okay so hold this to here there it is of course the leads right on top of the meter right 246 ohms so now I have to carefully I'll just replace that wire so you can see I installed this over top of it it's just very easily slides on here before I put the Transformer back inside the radio because the heat of the tube it actually this wire was laying on the tube and I can show you that here see that was laying on that so I just wanted to put a bit of heat shielding on that so who knows maybe even me putting this heat shielding on come to think of it might have even been enough too to actually open that wire who knows at this point so what I'll do is I will put a brand new wire in here and go from there the wire is now attached in the Transformer and I've also attached that little lead as you can see right there so what's happening is I've glued this at the top and I've glued the entire bottom right down to right basically down to this end here and I don't know if you can see that you see how the wire is loose still the wire is soldered here but there's a big strain relief in here that is just so the wire is not tight so if any movement is at this point here uh it's not going to snap that wire if that wire was banjo string tight it would break here so now keep in mind there's a lot of movement here because this is a 300 millimeter lens zoomed right in so pardon the movement so you can see that little wires is loose right now it's loose right into the Transformer up there so the only place that it's tight is right where it's attached here and it's glued into place so now that that's all done I'll put the paper back on and I even put a dab of glue on this side as well and uh use the accelerator on that as well in order to make that wire just a bit tougher because I don't want to have to do this again so that should uh be a nice long term fix and here is the fixed Transformer so if you recall I pulled this little Edge back and then cut underneath that edge so that I could fold the edge over my actual cut and that turned out pretty nice so looks like minimal interference into the Transformer I guess you could say you can see I've also flowed some of that super glue on the top side of the Transformer here just to hold everything much more steady so it turned out very nice everything went back together and that wire is in there it's solid so nothing is going to break there anymore so take a look here from here if you say here I can make connections here there it is 247. so no problems so the audio Transformer is back in Action again I'll get this installed in the radio and we'll try it out let's try again so the antenna is attached and it's attached to my isolation Transformer and current limited variac Supply which you'll see up here right about now and let's try it again so here we go turn this on make sure the volume is up just a little bit wait for the tubes to come into a mission I do hear noise in the speaker and it's coming to life [Music] that's all I can be cutter treatments here everything is tailored to you so far so good that is at reduced voltage so this is oh running probably about 90 volts not even 120 coming into this radio receiver so if I flip this switch up here that'll bypass all of this aside from the isolation Transformer and what will end up happening is we'll get quite a bit more receive even from this now keep in mind this thing isn't even aligned nothing's done yet and listen to the way this thing is receiving so once the alignment's done I think this thing really is going to be a champ so let's get into that alignment I'm about to align the if section in this radio receiver here so on the signal generator the IF frequency is set to 455 kilohertz so that's coming out of this cable here the output level is 50 millivolts but that's being attenuated by a small capacitor here and that's right in line with this little alligator clip I'll talk about that in a moment the modulation frequency is 800 Cycles the reason I chose 800 Cycles is just because it's easy to hear and the microphone picks it up very well so it's not picky you can use a thousand or 400 Cycles or whatever is easy on your ears it's just so that you can hear it in the speaker so the signal comes down this lead here and it runs through a very small capacitor so it's very lightly coupled into the radio receiver now in the instructions they tell you to couple directly to pin number eight and this is for a Brute Force type of alignment using the old signal generator so they want you to tap right in here while I'm tapping in over here on the other side of the capacitor where it ties to the top side of the chassis to this cap here so it just makes things a little bit easier and I'm also just very lightly coupling into this tube here as to not really load the circuit all that much so I want the lightest coupling I can have into this into this radio receiver so with that being said we should hear a tone at the speaker if I turn the volume up there it is so it's very light so you always want to have just enough signal basically to light up the if section all right so you just want enough signal to get through so if I turn the amplitude down here so if I go amplitude amplitude and I do this see how it's going away it's almost not you can't even hear it right now so 50 is pretty light that's a pretty light signal okay so now that we have this happening I need to be able to see when I adjust these little capacitors in the top of the if Transformer I need to be able to see the difference I need to see the sensitivity difference and that's where this vacuum to voltmeter comes in so what I'm going to do is attach the vacuum tube voltmeter across the output Transformer the audio output Transformer and as I turn these it's going to either increase the sensitivity of the receiver making the speaker louder or it's going to decrease the sensitivity and make it quieter so obviously we want the most sensitivity possible so in order to do that I'm going to clip the common of the vtvm to one of these leads and I'm going to desolder the other lead on the audio Transformer and I'm just going to connect it to here and then I'm going to turn the volume up just enough so that way I get a bit of needle deflection here now some of you might be thinking oh you can't run an audio Transformer without a load yeah you can so there's hardly any audio coming through this thing and it'll be so incredibly light it won't even matter now if I was to turn the volume control on this thing up incredibly loud yeah then there might be a problem with the audio Transformer but the the thing's not even working it's just barely passing any signal just enough to deflect this the reason I'm disconnecting it from the speaker is because the speaker really to the vtvm almost looks like a dead short right so with the vacuum tube volt meter across the voice coil here what's happening is the voice coil is is using up all the energy and it's you know making it hard for this thing to see it right because it's almost you know again to the vtvm this looks like a dead short right so if I open the lead I'll get a lot more meter deflection and of course it's just going to be easier on everything I don't have to have it so loud so to give you an example of what I'm talking about here is I'll put this on here okay and meters laying on this right now okay so if you see this this is on this meter's most sensitive setting I don't know if you can see that down here okay so if I put this on here all right that's full volume okay right now that's all I get so now if I was to remove this from here I'd probably have three quarters deflection which is a lot easier to read all right because the voice coil won't be using up we'll be using up all of the uh all the drive let's put it that way so I'll desolder this and attach this to this probe here and we'll start with the alignment I have my probe now attached to the disconnected speaker lead and as you can see I get quite a bit more deflection out of this so that's pinned right there that's the maximum volume so I'll put it about halfway it's always nice to have the meter about halfway and now we need to Peak all of these capacitors in here so I'm just going to look for the best tool that I can find to do this with and I think that would be this one right here and I'll start with this one and we're looking for a Max and if the signal gets too high I'll turn the signal generator down so look at how far off that is you turn the volume down I can probably also turn the signal generator down now you're going to see a little bit of movement here because uh those capacitors a tool that might be just a little better for this oh these are way off so this is going to have a lot of sensitivity so turn the amplitude down wow so that's about the max for that one right about there all right now I'll go to the next one foreign let's turn the volume down we're getting pretty low on Signal here wow okay now move over to this one here turn the volume down some more turn the signal down even more look at how far off that was so that volume is way down and look at where we are on the signal generator on an eight millivolts and that's again being greatly even attenuated by this little capacitor so I'll go over this one more time it's always a good idea to do that of course just even pushing on these will change it okay so that one's good this receiver is going to have a lot of sensitivity way more than it had I brought that one up some more too so go back to the first one again and back to the second one here again so I'm just going back and forth on this one here again if you pass it you just reverse the tool and go the other way okay so we're getting pretty close on that one so now we'll go to this one here one more time there and there so that was way off the if Transformers in this were way out so somebody throughout time has been in here and screwdrivered the if section so that will greatly increase the receive on this so next what we're going to do is tune the oscillator and then we'll move our way to the antenna we're now into the oscillator alignment portion so basically what we're doing is we're making the dial read correctly so we don't want to be receiving 600 am at 1100 right so we need to make sure that what's displayed on the dial is where it's actually receiving and that's where the oscillator alignment comes in so this is the oscillator alignment coil right here so this is for the broadcast band again the broadcast band is a lower frequency so we have more turns and then this is would be the short wave and there's less turns here because it's a higher frequency so we have two adjustment points we have this capacitor and this capacitor on the broadcast oscillator coil so our two alignment frequencies are 1400 and 600 am so we have to point the dial pointer to 1400 and we have to point the dial pointer to 600 am in order to make the alignment happen in this thing all right so again we've zeroed this thing as I mentioned earlier in the video so when the capacitor is fully meshed it's pointing straight across and when it's fully open it's also pointing straight across the mechanical alignment is the very first thing all right but that's already been done so we don't got to worry about that so we see 1400 oscillator trimmer free end so the free end of the coil is this end so basically what they're saying the free end isn't attached to the chassis so the free end and then we have the fixed end which would be the portion that's tied to the chassis so if we look at 600 am oscillator lag item 42 fixed end so very simply remember 600 am 1400 am adjustment okay so we want to see how close to 1400 am we are so this is at 600 right now so I'll go 1400 am one four zero zero kilohertz all right and let's take a listen so I'll move this up [Applause] so you can see that's quite a ways off so it's almost pointed to 1500 that's 1400 am right there so as you can see it's not receiving where it says it's receiving so now we need to do is adjust this so that we pick that up again okay so just put the tool in here like so get that into there and there it is so now we're hearing the dial at the correct area now keep in mind once we adjust the 600 end the 600 kilohertz end of things what's going to happen is we're going to need to go back and readjust the 1400 because when you adjust this you can either stretch the dial out or squeeze the dial together so you can actually make this further apart or closer together so it requires us to go back and forth and back and forth until we make the dial read correctly so that's technically what it's doing to that coil all right so now I'll go to 600 600 kilohertz all right and we'll move this over here there's 600 and see if we can hear anything that's way off that's at 650. all right so that's where it's supposed to be all right so now we need to adjust the fix end so make sure we've got some volume Happening Here there it is okay so now we need to go back up to 1400 kilohertz and see if we can hear this backup at 1400 again you see how it moved that down that end has now moved down so we need to go back up to 1400 again and readjust the free end we got to go back and forth and back and forth until that reads in both areas and at that point the dial should read very close so there it is back at 1400 let's go back down to 600. and this is what the alignment is like for every radio you got to go back and forth and back and forth so to my eye that's right on so that's right pointing at 600. so 600 okay 100. and as you can see it's off again so we'll adjust the fixed end now back up to 1400. [Music] 1400 and it's not there again so we'll readjust this okay back down to 600. this is way off ah we're getting close probably use just a touch up it's uh 600 is this end just about adjust the wrong end [Music] there we go so that's very close I'm gonna back up to 1400 again that's right at 1400. this end here all right it's right about Center and one more try back down to 600. if you do turn the wrong one it kind of messes things up you almost have to start over again so keep that in mind all right so it looks pretty good so now let's try about Center scale right let's try uh 900. 900 kilohertz see how close this is [Music] bought on look at that if you can see that right in there spot on so that's the RF align or the oscillator alignment for the am broadcast band the next step is to Peak the antenna coil for the broadcast band now technically I want to do the final alignment with this with my antenna connected because you want to Peak the antenna coil to the actual antenna that's connected to it that's usually the best way to do things so but for now I will Peak it with the signal generator and it'll get me very close all right it'll probably just be a very very slight movement to get the maximum out of the antenna trimmer adjustment with my actual antenna connected okay so right now I have the signal generator set at one megahertz or 1000 kilohertz I've got the signal coming out 100 microvolts and again the same tone so 100 microvolts is being coupled through this very very light value capacitor right here all right so it's uh you know just a touch of signal getting into the the receiver at this point so what I'll do is I'll turn this up and I can barely hear the tone in there the dial is set also to obviously 1000 am right so let's see what happens Steph all these adjustments are way off it's trying to receive a radio station right now with my signal generator attached to it you can hear them beating together thank you so this receiver is going to be very sensitive I'm looking forward to to listening to some late night distant stations on this thing should be a lot of a lot of fun all right so that's done now on to the short wave now we're on to the shortwave oscillator and then we move to the shortwave adjustment up here as well it's now time to adjust the shortwave bands so the very first thing we need to do is adjust the 15 megahertz side it says oscillator trimmer item free end so this is the free end here that's the trimmer and then we have the coil adjustment down here which will be adjusted at six megahertz iron core item okay so that'll be this one right here so let's see how close we are we'll take a look at the signal generator have everything already preset so let's find out how close we actually are foreign I'm very surprised very very surprised by that that's almost spot on that would be spot on right there so we'll give it a slight adjustment that is actually very surprising so usually I free these all up before I go about adjusting them so I'll stick this in just before I turn the camera on and I'll just rock them back and forth so I'm not fighting with them on camera because some of them are pretty C's this one has been not bad I didn't do it to this one so hopefully this one is not going to fight me let's see here Ashland's actually not bad Okay so [Music] now keep in mind that even pushing on this and we'll change this right [Music] so that's pretty close that's going to be right on that's why they tell you to rock the gang sometimes so it's a tuning gang and they tell you to Rock It that's what they mean by rocking it Rock back and forth so that's spot on 15 now so let's try six megahertz [Applause] and that will be over here actually so let's leave this down not bad it's a little bit low foreign [Applause] so right there spot on six to my eye so now we need to adjust the slug in the center okay so let's do this get this in here actually this end will do pop that end in like so all right wow okay six there it is back up to 15. 15 to my eye sure yep 15. and 15 megahertz and we'll adjust this end again [Music] [Music] all right close spot on okay back to six that would be spot on six or eight there six megahertz and again we need to adjust this some more let's make sure that we're not going the wrong way nope that's definitely the right way and back up to the other dial or to the 15. there we are 15 megahertz see how close we are to this getting closer 15. spawn on 15. back down to six let's move this just a touch oh that's so close in fact I think that is that's pointed right at it to my eye so there it is right in the middle of six so there we go so that is the oscillator adjustment for the shortwave band so now we go to the antenna adjustment for this the next step is to adjust the antenna coil now they have you do this a little bit differently in the alignment procedure but experience brings me to doing it this way so anyways let's give it some volume so I'm back up at 15 megahertz as you can see and I'm going to turn the sensitivity down to 100 microvolts again that's you know attenuated Again by this very very light value capacitor so turn that we can still hear it in here so now I'm going to do is adjust the capacitor on the top here of the antenna coil and it definitely peaked up not much but it did peek out so not too bad so now we need to do is go back down to the bottom where is it where that was at six megahertz six oops I'm adjusting the amplitude here let's see frequency six megahertz okay we'll go back down to the bottom there it is right there now we need to do is adjust the core which is through the bottom of the chassis right there adjust that for maximum sensitivity hear quite a bit of gain there all right now I'm going to go back up to 15. and adjust this one here again [Music] wow that's really picked the sensitivity of this up whoa see what I mean so that peaked up even more so we'll go back now keep in mind that just me moving this around is moving this off frequency because as you can see [Applause] that's me capacitively coupling to the coil [Applause] so that's how sensitive this is most of the high-end Communications receivers have a metal bottom on them and then you have to poke your tuning tool through the metal bottom cover so that nothing will change this so nothing will basically couple to it so there's going to be a obviously a bake light bottom on this thing right so again it probably won't be much different than this being on the on the bench here but it may cause when I slide this into the cabinet to cause this to move away hair on the dial so not too big of a deal if I was to put a metal cover on the bottom of this or something like that it would definitely change this again you know like I'm effectively tuning the dial with my hand kind of like a theremin [Applause] all right so one of the catches with the receivers that don't have bottom metal covers all right so anyways back to six megahertz we go lots of receiver knowledge here for you I could talk hours about all the little catches and things and what brings me to changing around the alignment procedure a little bit to optimize things and there's just yeah done so many of these done so many Communications receivers at this point you just you get to know what works best for what level six megahertz okay and all right and that's where the sensitivity is going to be at the max trying to listen to the difference not bad okay so now let's check the dial accuracy at about uh we'll see 10 megahertz and listen for sensitivity as well should be right around here look at that spot on [Music] spot on 10 megahertz lots of sensitivity not bad at all so now that this is done it's pretty much ready to put back in the cabinet and we can listen around the dial and see how well this thing really performs first I'm going to take that big light cabinet and clean it up just a little bit and make it look like brand new I've been working way at the Bakelite case and this is how it's coming out so far so I think I'm pretty much done at this case I'm just going to put some plastic cleaner on the little plastic bubble window here and I think it's done now there is no rocket science to this all that I've done here is there was sticker residue on the side and there's some grease and dirt on this so I took some WD-40 and wiped the whole case down to get rid of the sticker residue works great for that and the grease and all that just removes all that and once that's done you dry it off completely now don't get fooled by WD-40 when you spray it onto Bake Light it usually makes a bake light look incredible right away well what happens is once you dry it off the you know the WD-40 will go away and you end up with a dull case again so WD-40 is a great cleaning process for this in order to make it stay shiny for quite some time what I use is this product right here no I'm not sponsored by them I just find that it works very very well on Bakelite so I put this on the bake light and you know put a whole lot of it on there smear it around and then just buff it all off and you want to buff it off until it's completely dry so so that you don't have a greasy residue in the end and this is what you end up with and it really is quite simple you don't really have to work out a lot of this stuff for an incredible amount of time just the nice thing about Bakelite is it comes back usually with just you know a little bit of cleaning and some wax so that's that so what I'm going to do now you can see there as quickly as I can wipe this off is as quickly as dust is settling on it so anyways don't mind the dust so now what I'm going to do is just clean up this little plastic window here with some plastic polish this is the stuff that I use right here again not sponsored just works very very well kind of the same color as my little Rags here it's a nice little light blue color and I'll sit there and just polish this up clean that all up and get the radio back in and we'll take a listen to it and see how well this thing receives and it'll look great too let's take a listen to the broadcast band and see how well it performs now it's somewhat late into the evening not incredibly late so the stations that are there are a fraction of what will be there in just a couple of hours the difference is is when all of those stations get in there it becomes quite a pile up and we get quite a bit of a whistle on the band because stations are just on top of each other and they're all over the place so this is kind of a nice balance between daytime conditions where the band is completely quiet and all you hear is the radio station and night where you get lots and lots of radio stations in here be again because of the conditions and we get to hear kind of a balance of both please don't mind the dust settling on the case uh it's impossible to keep the dust off of this especially with the way the light is shining the reason that I have it lit like this is so that we can see the dial I want to keep the reflection of the actual light that's lighting the radio off the dial the the dial plastic bubble Dome over the actual radio dial itself since it is a bubble Dome no matter where you put the light there's always Shadow somewhere where you want to look so this seems to be the best balance for everything so we could see a bit of the radio and we could see the dial at the same time so let's take a listen to the broadcast band and see how many stations there are again if you have a very uh you know I guess you could say a wide audio response on your on your computer speakers or whatever you're listening to on your headphones you'll probably hear a bit of a high-pitched whistle in here and that's between the stations that high pitch whistle is not there during the day it's just again because there's just so many radio stations it's uh it really is quite hard to keep uh you know to to keep that out of there so when I tune onto a radio station a strong one you'll hear that whistle go away so just some things to keep in mind that's just normal DX listening all right so the microphone is about as Optimum as it's going to get for making this radio sound the way it should as I'm sitting in front of it okay so I'm off to the side of the microphone right now that's why I sound a little bit distant I have the microphones uh element and directly at the speaker here so I I don't know if you could get a more accurate representation over the computer again with the way it sounds on your end depends on your computer's system EQ and speakers and everything but if you have it set up correctly it should sound pretty good so let's take a listen prepare the room for Elijah when he passed through that area and since then [Music] [Music] at this point in the season Eagles alone remaining undefeated team they are sitting at six at all and says well another thing to note is uh King George NFL Not Just Sports topics uh in story lines but also pumpkins and candy and it's the end of October which just blows me away it's after and look at early November foreign [Music] so as you can see radio stations everywhere and again this isn't even the peak of conditions right now if I tune this a couple hours from now I won't be able to move that dial just a stitch without hearing a radio station so this is kind of a nice balance between daytime and conditions we get to to hear that uh the radio perform you know listening to distance stations and we do get to hear some local stuff in here as well so it's about a 50 15 mix right now on Monday to Friday at 5 a.m and 5 P.M [Music] tomorrow or later on this weekend okay thanks Marley it's not a competition I still think I will raise we'll see scattered showers in the morning without selling your home you need your financial needs buying it a couple of bags right now traffic center still allowed six and a half yards per flight your team is bottom 40. and coming to Maple Leafs increase the odds of knee replacement surgery for both men and women check your credit score some basketball to look at we've got some tennis is brought to you by Mountain America's special rate offer temperatures this afternoon rise into the 40s bringing with it those snow levels up amazing amount of stations in there so the receiver is working really really well next we'll take a listen to the short wave bands let's listen to some short wave so I have the needle sitting just below six megahertz so we'll take a listen there should be some action up in here and then at this time of the day usually in this portion of the band it's really quiet so we'll take a listen anyways and see what we can hear so let's turn this up and get scanned in the band thank you repeat those autonomy once elected the new speaker will conducts the election of the new prime minister to be to be decided by the members [Music] [Applause] foreign [Applause] Morse code in there [Applause] okay thank you next time [Applause] so please help me foreign foreign here's an example of the time signal at 15 megahertz a little bit later in the day the conditions still aren't Optimum but it's here so that's 50 megahertz and there it is at 10. [Applause] the dial accuracy on this Northern electric is really really good it's pointing right at 10 and when it was receiving the time signal at 15 megahertz pointing right at 15. so Northern electric really did a good job making the oscillator track with this dial so all in all I'm extremely impressed with this little radio it works very very well and you can really see Northern electric really did put the time into the design so all in all project successful very happy with this little radio if you enjoyed this video and the detail provided in this video you can let me know by giving me a big thumbs up and hang around there'll be more videos like this in the very near future so there'll be lots of repairs and Restorations and even circuitry design on this channel so if you're all about Electronics like I am this is the place don't forget to hit the Subscribe Button as well I have an extra 150 videos on patreon I have an ongoing Electronics course there where I share many of my personal electronic inventions and designs as well you may want to check that out I'll put the link just below the show more tab under the video's description and I'll pin the link at the top of the comment section so if you click on the link it'll take you right there alright until next time take care bye for now

Channel: Mr Carlson's Lab

Views: 387,113

Keywords: restoration videos, repair videos, radio restoration, receiver restoration, engineering videos, electronics videos, amplifiers, antique restoration, preserve history, fix electronics, test electronics, design electronics, HAM radio, tube radio, valve radio, valve receiver, tube receiver, test equipment, electronic alignment, radio alignment, receiver alignment

Id: e8uBz3u-75U

Length: 107min 33sec (6453 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 28 2022