Replace ball joints Chevy Silverado GMC Sierra 1999-2011

all right guys we're going to try to help you out with your ball joint job today we got canadian casey to help over there see him all right ball joints we're gonna we need to get the whole steering knuckle out of here so we got some 18 millimeters on the back of these brakes we're gonna get off casey's over here getting some uh cotter keys out of the ball joints tie rod so what we're going to do is grab our 18 millimeter and well these ones aren't 18 so these ones have torques on this side see if we can get a look that one has a torx for some reason the other side is 18. looks like we've got 18's there though all right so one side has torques and one has both regular bolts let's go fun stuff all right so get your brakes apart that's the first thing we'll take this caliper off take this mounting bracket off take this rotor off if your rotor doesn't come off easily camera right in between the lug studs here on this flat surface if you're reusing your rotor don't hurt your friction surface or smack your lug studs it'll break free we're going to take this cap off of here because that's going to give us access to our axle nut all right we got our brakes off there's a 10 millimeter in this bracket here take that off unclip the wheel speed sensor locked into a couple clips here goes up around the shock unclip that sucker now we got the nut off the upper ball joint the tie rod and the lower ball joint i left the nut just a few threads on on the lower ball joint oh we're going to take this tie rod off well the ball joint gave that was kind of weird usually we hammer the ball joint just like i'm doing on this tie rod [Music] there it goes and the lower ball joint broke free too so that's pretty cool usually you have to hammer on the knuckle right here and right here but they all came off for us so that's sweet all right feels tight now we can lift up unthread that nut left that nut on there so it didn't just fall down [Music] we got our cv axle if yours is stuck in there use a punch and a hammer or an air chisel on that center dot push the axle back and that'll just all slide off there now that that steering knuckle's off we can grab our snap ring pliers [Music] they've never been replaced they might have little uh factory slots in them that you have to chisel back we got another snap ring on the underside of the upper ball joint [Music] oh that one's on there good we're gonna take our ten millimeter wrench [Music] get this grease fitting off i'll get that snap ring out and get the ball joint press set up all right we've got our ball joint press all set up probably want to grease your threads before you use it i'm using an open cone here because the ball joint comes all the way out here and uh this is going to press it down that far and that should be enough to whack it out so that's my setup you can rent one of these from the parts store get your money back when you're done using that so just [Music] there we go see it's pressed out [Music] now it might not come out it might still be in there enough i just take a socket and a hammer and boom it'll knock right out of there that's how you press them out about the same story on the top except for the top one presses upwards so get your cones right for the for the top one so you can press it up that one presses down on the lower here's my setup for the top ball joint the upper ball joint has a little notch or a hole and that faces the wheel i cleaned out these holes with a little wire brush all right so make sure you have that hole facing outwards we got her all set up to press on the top one we're pressing downwards so make sure your stud down here is going through the open hole of your press that's how we're going to set it up i'll just tighten her down so she presses all the way in you should be able to run your thumb nail under there when it's all pressed in and you shouldn't be able to get your thumbnail in should be nice and plush all right we got that top one pressed in zerk fitting grease fitting installed little eight millimeter there snap ring put in now we got our set up for the lower ball joint to hover up for where the bulging is gonna go up into it make sure got our snap ring and greaser down here make sure it's facing away that's greasable once the steering knuckle's on so now i'm gonna lift the steering knuckle up we're gonna start with sliding it through the axle and wrapping it under the lower ball joint and just getting that bottom nut on a couple turns so i'll do that right now i put a little bit of grease on the splines to help that fit through there all right so we tightened up the lower ball joint nut not final torque final torque on that should be 94 foot pounds but zipped it up so that the axle shaft could clear that zerk fitting and then the axle came through and then i'll line up your upper ball joint stud with the steering knuckle you might have to move the stud a little bit but get it lined up we had to use a floor jack with a chunk of wood to lift up on the lower control arm to get some threads showing but now we're connected now we just gotta tighten the upper and lower control arm bolts or that ball joint nuts put our tie rod back in tighten her up we're going to put our washer and axle nut back on here that was a 36 millimeter and it's 177 foot pounds so we're gonna get everything tightened back up all right we got the lower ball joint nut torque to spec cut our key through we're gonna bend that cotter key down same story with the upper tie rods back to tight just need to throw the cotter key through we got to tighten down our axle nut we got the washer inside there 177 foot pounds so yeah everything's pretty much thrown back together besides the brakes so we're gonna throw tighten this axle nut down throw the brakes on get this wheel speed sensor back in its homes it's got that little bracket clips into a little spot right here just goes up around clips into the wheel speed sensor above the shock put our rotor back on put our mounting bracket back on with pads throw the caliper over it make sure you got those nice and tight those 18 millimeters uh this upper ball joint was at 18 millimeter or 11 16. the bottom one was a 22 mil 18 millimeter on the tie rod and i think that pretty much sums it up i don't think i mentioned that with a 10 millimeter on that bracket right there make sure you grease up your ball joints don't forget about that make sure this fitting right there is pointing in a way you can grease it we got a pretty good angle here and uh there's a good time to clean up your brakes too these are dry and rusty so we clean all the brakes up before reassembly looks like this guy needs a sway bar link nut right there new sway bar link snapped off time to check everything the tub assembly has some noise spin it around see if it's noisy while you've got the steering knuckle off what do you think does that do it casey did we touch everything that does it for the old ship today don't forget to plug your sensor back in make sure it's in a way that won't get caught in the tire or anything use some zip ties if this little guy snapped off on you because that's common all right you

Channel: FerKurl

Views: 99,505

Keywords: Replace, Change, Remove, Press, Press in, How to, Install, Ball joint, Upper, Lower, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, Chevrolet, Chevy, Silverado, GMC, Sierra, Tahoe, Avalanche, Yukon, Car repair, Labor guide, 4wd, 4x4, Four wheel drive, 1500, Half ton

Id: tHuxjbYHfNY

Length: 9min 26sec (566 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 02 2020