Reassembling the CJ0618 7x12 Lathe

welcome to adventures with a very small lathe this is a 7-inch mini lathe in the previous video I completely disassembled it cleaned it divert it and started working on fixing them any problems it has at this stage my goal is to fix whatever is required to make sure the lathe works safely in the longer term I hope to make more permanent fixes and improvements so I'm compiling a catalog of problems and opportunities for projects this project has already been a major commitment so I was really delighted when Skillshare offered to sponsor this videos it'll really help the project Skillshare is an online membership community for creatives interested in learning where millions of people come together to take the next step in their creative journey Skillshare offers thousands of inspiring classes for curious people on creative topics like illustration design photography freelancing video and more I've recently explored quite a few classes on the site on video storytelling film lighting color grading and video editing as well as mechanical engineering a cat I particularly enjoyed the classes on lighting and color grading and while my lighting in color nothing to write home about I'm gradually getting better as a result the first 1,000 people who click on the link in the description we get a two-month free trial of premium memberships so you can explore your creativity you I'll start the assembly by putting the headstock back on I tried sliding on from the ends this should help make sure there aren't any fragments of dirt trapped between the headstock in the ways but it's overkill at this stage in the project when I came to tighten the bolts I noticed this problem the contact points are incorrectly aligned for this bet causing the bevel to be way out of alignment if the bevel is fitted correctly the other side of the headstock is several millimeters above the bed this will need to be shim Dory machined and will probably be one of the first improvement projects I do the four headstock screws are installed from below and probably shouldn't be over tightened until the bevel fitting issue is resolved the motor is the next thing to install the mounting stud is shipped with our completely inadequate and failed joint delivery so I'm working on a video to make quick replacements more suited to the job in the longer term I need to make a much more robust mount for the motor with any luck I can make something like the really awesome mounts youtuber Tim Nami made in the video linked in description [Music] these two hex bolts actor spaces to keep the motor steady and a drive load they need to be adjusted once I have the motor correctly positioned so I'll just set the length roughly for now the motor cable runs through this hole in the casting and into the back of the control panel but I need to carefully make sure it stays - of the lead screw which ones just under the hole here it makes sense to install the lead screw at this point which is easier with the lathe on his side first this plastic shield makes sure the cable doesn't rub on the lead screw if it sags down [Music] the lead screw hanger bearings have different fittings at the headstock end the screws fit to the hole round holes locking the bearing in position now the tailstock end each screw has a short slot so the lead screw can be adjusted to the correct angle parallel to the bed I'm leaving the tailstock end loose for now so I can adjust it later the first I thought I should tighten the headstock end but then realize this would prevent the adjustment from working correctly and might make the leaks shoot curved the belt needs to be installed and correctly tension before going any further but the spacer bolts are preventing the motor from moving enough to get past the rest of the shaft I need to shorten the spacers to allow it to move to make sure the belt runs straight parallel to the headstock and well care to avoid robbing I carefully adjust the position of the pulley now I need to readjust the spacer so the belt is kept and flapping but not so tight it'll wear out the power cable makes it really hard to see properly so I took it out again [Music] it took a while to get the motor position just right after the spacers would in the right position I needed to rotate the motor along his body until the bolts correctly aligned with the slot so they would hold it steady against the spaces as the bolts are on the opposite side of the casting and completely hidden behind the motor while I could see the spacers it took a lot of experimentation and adjustment to go right along with the motor power cable the three wires from the power Inlet need to go back through the casting as well I decided not to worry too much about the earth wire bonding while there is paint on the flat surface the screw head is good metal to metal contact along its length so the headstock and bed should be adequately earthed I took a reference photo during disassembly to make sure I knew which wire went back where it beats those situations where I find I can't read my own hundred notes a couple of days later the wires to the motor attached to two screw terminals on this complicated speed controller it would be easy to get this wrong the power input wires aren't very long so it's easier to hook the panel over the bottom three screws before fitting them the wire connection is much simpler as they attach to the obvious Spade connectors on the safety cutoff switch before I go any further I need to check everything works so I fit these top two screws and give it a spin [Music] that works so I can find the screws I saw their dings bought the washer underneath the housing when I was filming this before I move on with the rest of the assembly I needed to make sure the none of the cables are anywhere near the lead screw as it make it more difficult to check and fix later the motor cover fits with three screws directly into the casting two on the top and one down the left hand side the carefully aligned rifle he turns out to be very close to the edge of the cover to make sure it doesn't make contact I've bend the metal away of it the column for the drive belt is also the mounting plate for the upper part of the feed gear train it's held in place by two screws a symmetric positions in the headstock casting the reverse tumblers the first part of the gear trying to fit but is tricky because the spring-loaded handle needs to be pulled out and aligned with one of the details this screw holds the tumbler against the mounting plate while still allowing it to be moved between three positions for the forward feed reverse feed and feed disengaged in the middle I discovered during disassembly that it doesn't appear to disengage cleanly so fixing improving it is going to be a project the link between the tumbler and the change cases this pair of gears mounted by this bracket to gear shaft six through a hole in the mounting plate but actually runs on a bearing in the bucket the change gears are mounted on a banjo which needs to be lifted up until the gears are engaged and secured in place with this nut the banjo is very sloppy and actually forced to sit crooked when it's tightened so there's a lot to fix here earlier when I was fitting the heck spacer I noticed that the surface of the casting is not perpendicular to the length of the bed and screwing it in enforces the staggered mangle though I'm gonna fix the way the banjo sits crooked this won't be fixed first the bed is now fully assembled so it's time to start work on the larger sub assemblies the saddle these are the two most important parts of the carriage assembly the saddle itself and the cross slide the dovetail ways are adjusted and tightened by way of a gear which is held in place by these screws unfortunately the detents in the Gib don't line up with the spacing on the screw holes which means the gape isn't going to be held in place properly no matter how much I adjust the screws I'll either need to find a way to rescue this one we'll make a new gear this is probably quite a bit more oil than these dovetails really need but I can always clean it up later it took me quite a bit of fiddling to work out all the parts I needed to get the cross-slide assembled correctly the first obvious part missed out was the round plate used to attach the compound while allowing it to be rotated freely the next missing part is the lead screw nut which needs to be fitted to the underside of the slide it's held in place by two cap screws which serve to keep it aligned and firmly held it also has a third grub screw to control the vertical spacing from the top of the cross slide to make sure the lead screw runs parallel to the movement of the slide the lead screw screws into the nut which is not yet tighten in place as the exact adjustment will happen later the lead screw is held in place horizontally by this spacer which has a pocket to contain the flange on the shaft the pocket is quite a bit deeper than the width the flange returns a lot of backlash to the screws movement but laughs this large can make accurate machining very difficult so I'll be looking two ways to reduce it in addition to the backlash there's a lot of slop in the dovetail but fixing this properly will be easier once the saddle is mounts from the bed a quick trick to the center screw and the nut retaining screws is all I'll do for now this ring is the scale for trekking handrail rotation and theoretically it could be used to reduce the backlash but in practice it needs to be free to move to adjust the scale zero so that's not a useful solution to the backlash problem the handle simply screws onto the end of the shaft with the cam screw the saddle is now nearly complete and the moving parts all seem to move as they should the final parts to hold it to the bed of these plates which are screwed in place to press against the underside of the bed weighs holding the saddle down they have three through holes for the screws that hold them in place and two smaller threaded holes which one use when the lathe shipped searching around the internet has revealed that the threaded holes were intended for grub screws which control the spacing between the plates and the underside of the saddle this spacing should be adjusted to ensure the plates are parallel to the bed waist not slanted at an angle like they were when I disassembled the lathe I fitted the screws roughly in position with plenty of slack before putting the saddle on the bed plenty of oil shouldn't hire here there'll be plenty of opportunity to wipe the excess clear before the lathe is ready to run I started the plate adjustment by tightening the three main screws until the plate was just in contact with the bed and still look level to the eye I then tightened the grub screws until they felt firm against the plate this was enough grip to stop the saddle from moving so I Bank the tension off until the saddle could move but the plate was still in firm contact with the underside of the bed I just did the other side the same way but had to fine-tune the tension on both sides to make sure the saddle could move freely enough and had similar holding forces on both sides the plate should be more capable of holding the carriage steady with this larger contact area than they were when they were just scraping along the corner of the bed waste I've wrote suggestions of this can be improved by adding thick shims between the saddle and the bed so the plates can be kept stable without the screws forcing them to flex and Bend the apron to make the carriage functional the next part I need is the apron there'll be a gap held in place by these three grub screws but more on that later this shaft provides a way to engage and disengage the half nut for the fee the correct positions are handled by a ball detent held in this hole by a spring and a short grub screw the grub screw needs to be tightened until the shaft is prevented from turning beyond its normal range but it's hard to check the movement range before the handle is fitted the handle is secured on to the shaft with another grub screw and a flat on the shaft and show us of the screws it's the right angle if the spring isn't tighten enough the handle will move beyond the end of is intended travel as the ball escapes from is detail the only other part I removed for cleaning was the gear for hang cranking the carriage now we need to work out how to attach the apron to the saddle and fit the half nuts around the lead screw in the right order I couldn't work out how to do both at the same time without going an extra pair of hands so I moved the saddle to one side to sort out the half nuts first the half nuts need to be fitted on two pins on the handle rotor which caused them to open and close when the handle is turned the pinion also needs to be engaged with the wrap on the bed once everything's in the right place the kit can be slid into place and tightened this is another gear with details that don't line up with the grub screws unfortunately tightening the get retaining screws while holding everything else in the right place appears to be impossible with only two hands to work around this I'll try attaching the apron to the saddle to keep a steady first now the aprons hold still I should be able to insert the give from underneath or at least I will once the grub screws are loose enough finally success to get the good adjustment just right I want to be able to see it close-up part of the difficulty I had was because there's such a large gap between the Gibbon the dovetail which makes a slop around too much the lead screw is slopping around because I haven't yet tightened the hanger bearing fittings now the saddle is secured to the lathe there's a good time to tighten the cross light Kip I'm starting with the center screw removing as much stuff as possible but ensuring the cross type and still move without too much resistance it's important to make sure there's very little slop here as it can cause tool chatter then I turn the other two screws until they feel about the same timely all three to the same level as effectively lock the slide so they need to be backed out little it takes a short while to tune the screws until they're all around the same tension there's as little slop as possible and the slide can still move now that the apron is in position I can set the height of the lead screw I start with the screws just tight enough to stop the pinger bearing from flapping around I then primed the carriage to the tailstock end of the screw and engage the half nuts this pulls the lead screw to the correct height and a quick wiggle confirms there's very little play around this position I can now tighten the hanger bearing screws to fix the lead screw permanently at this height the compound the vinyl major addition to the carriage is the compound it's another dovetail slide but much simpler than the cross slide there are also a couple of differences in the mechanism the biggest difference is that the lead screw is attached to the top of the slide rather than to the bottom also unlike the cross flight there is no nut the shaft just screws into a threaded hole in the base the flange on the lead screw isn't held between two parts as it was on a cross light and it's not clear how it's going to be kept there at this stage the adjustable scale fits onto them shaft with a grub screw as you seen before and finally these two laps log together forcing the whole stack of parts to stay in place including the lead screw itself this is a really clunky assembly and I'm pretty sure I'm going to completely redesign it I've managed to lock everything together by over tightening but I'm going to delay sorting that out until everything's assembled mounted on the lathe the handle simply screws onto the end of the shaft with the cap screw the give retaining screws fit the same way as on the cross slide and the detent and the gibs seem to be pretty much and lineup they'll change I'll tighten them once the lead screw is sorted this round plate is where the compounds mounted and it needs to be oil to ensure it allows the compound to rotate smoothly the screws on either side of the dovetail screw into the plate the compound needed to be this far banked fits the carriage but needs to be run fully forward to tighten the give correctly so I've loosened the given lead screw enough to move it's important to make sure the give is nice and snug well the tool post won't be rigid enough to cut well I made a lot of adjustments to the gear while I was running it forward so while the time it was in place there was only a little bit of fine-tuning to do before locking the screws in place I made the gape quite a bit tighter than the cross slide as I almost never need to crank the compound long distances and it's very important to get it as rigid as practical the lathe really needs to compound locked keep it secure while machining but it doesn't currently have one the plastic angle scale that was mounted on the compound is never coming back I'll remake it in a material that looks less cheap finally the tool post I did a complete video on installing this quick change tool post which is a major upgrade from the tool post that came with the machine check the link at the top right now if you missed it the tailstock the only thing left is the tail stock the tail stock is in such bad condition I considered scrapping him but I decided to keep it around for now to see if any worthwhile improvements can be made this threaded stud locates the quill lock ring and handle the coil has a keyway machined into the sight but there's no actual key to align it the side of the quill lock ring sits in the key way and keeps the quill roughly straight the lead screw is much like the others on the lathe that has a lot of backlash which I'd like to fix it screws into the quill from the back and the flange seats against the bushing fixed into the back of the wall the retaining ring has a pocket for the flange but once again it's much deeper than the flange and the source of a lot of the backlash the two retaining screws are threaded into holes drilled at the circumference of the bushing so they also serve to lock the bushing in place the plastic feed wheel got damaged during disassembly so I'm going to replace it I haven't decided whether to order an exact replacement or if I'll get around to making a better one soon this pin is the core of the telstra lock mechanism and all be screwed through a metal plate on the underside of the bed to allow the lock to be engaged and disabled quickly the pin sits on an eccentric section of this handle shaft rotating the handle lifts the pin and presses the plate firmly against the underside of the bed the shaft is held in place by a grub screw it fits into a groove near the end the two holes at the bottom of the back will contain grub screws to help lock the tailstock onto its baseplate the base plate itself is loosely held by a cap screw which sits in this slot this allows the position of the tails hopper to be adjusted and the grub screws are needed to lock it with the plate and retaining not added to the shaft and now slits easily onto the back the nut needs to be adjusted to get the right length to make sure the locking action is easy to use and disengages cleanly the final component is this little screw to prevent the tailstock from accidentally sliding off the end and the lathe is back together and hopefully now should run without shaking yourself to pieces there's lots of fine-tuning to do especially aligning the tailstock before it can do accurate work the next steps will be improving the lathe bit by bit I'm hoping to learn quite a lot from improving this lathe and some of the products I try may not make sense for a lathe of this quality I'm going to do them anyway though as it's very liberating to have a machine to work on Warrick and Ford to make such mistakes the next video will will likely be about improvements to the motor mount after which I'll probably be looking at the way the saddle and headstock fit into the bed Skillshare support has been really helpful to make this serious happen so if you enjoyed the video please check out their community by the link in the description I'm compiling a public playlist of product videos on improving this type of layer so if you know of any good videos or want to see a product that hasn't been videoed before feel free to let me know in the stay tuned and I'll see you next time you

Channel: Adventures with a Very Small Lathe

Views: 116,024

Keywords: Lathe Assembly, Lathe Disassembly, Minilathe, Metal lathe, Mini metal lathe, C2 Lathe, Sieg C2, Reassembling Lathe, CJ0618 Lathe, 7x12 Lathe, Home machine shop, Chinese Lathe, Home machineshop, 7x12 mini lathe, 7x14 lathe, 7x14 mini lathe, chinese mini lathe

Id: z2_WWE000SY

Length: 40min 49sec (2449 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 24 2020