Raise3D E2 vs. Flashforge Creator 3

hello everybody welcome to twin stock we are gonna compare these two printers today on the right side we have the race 3 de 2 printer and my left we have the flashforge creator 3 we are gonna check these two machines in regards of features they have and also compare the slicing software these two have different slicers we will also check the noise level and the print quality we're gonna print a razor spinner file on both of these and we will also talk about service and repair of these two machines so stay tuned and find out more here at twin stock so let's check the features of these two machines the flesh watch created three does have a built volume of 300 by 250 by 200 millimeters it does have the idak sense so you can print in mirror or duplicate mode but the nozzles go up to 300 degrees Celsius the bet up to 120 degrees Celsius you can calibrate both nozzles fully automatically both have a piezo electric sensor and you do not have to do this manually you can also calibrate the bed so you have an auto battle leveling and you have a wifely function you have the USB here on the front to print from your space stick what you also have are the filament sensors on each door here on the sides so if you run out of filament the machine just stops and you can put in your new filament role and start the printing again let's see what the rice 3d2 has to offer we're just going to peel off the screen protector here it was in the comments so I'm just removing this and you can see it does have a 7-inch screen it's much bigger and nicer to look at we have a built volume of 330 by 240 by 240 millimeters we have the ID excess so you can print and duplicate and mirror mount the nozzles go up to 300 Celsius the bet goes up 210 degrees Celsius we have the camera built-in so you can watch on the go we have the filament sensors on each side and we also have a HEPA filter so to filter out the fumes we can out of bed level the bed but we cannot automatically calibrate the nozzle heads on this one you only have one touch sensor and it's on the left extruder it's not on both extruders so it's only on the left extruder if you want to calibrate the nozzle heights you have to use the video assisted manual here and go through it step-by-step it's semi-automatic it's not a big problem but the creator 3 does this better you have a fully automatic nozzle height calibration whereas this is semi-automatic it's not big of a problem what we have to look at now is the software side we're going to check the slicing software of both of these printers they are actually different slicers and we will see what features we have in there so we are going to compare these two slices we have flash print for the flashforge creator 3 and idea maker for the Razer 3d into printer I'm going to start with the idea maker and as you can see I'm using the better right now and this is why I get this welcome screen Andres is going to close this you can import the model here import once the structure of the software is actually really nice it's a black theme I don't really like black themes here but you cannot change that it's ok but the software doesn't really have great options maybe too many for me but that's ok so I'm going to start to slice this you can choose the extruder from this side here left or right I'm just going to use the left extruder and start slicing and you have options here for the filaments you're using for the printer type you have you can import and export all these stuff here I'm not going to talk too much on this software because we're going to compare only the main features of these printers so I'm going to choose the standard PLA template and you can edit it here let's check what we have as you can see we have many many options here and we also have special options like ironing or waste mode and so on which I couldn't find in the flesh for flesh print software so I'm just going to note down what we have here to also have it in the flesh print software we have layer height of 0.25 2 shells the infill of 10% honeycombs structure the temperatures are at 250 and 45 degrees for the heat bath speeds are at 60 millimeters per second and in full speed at 70 millimeters per second so we're going to use these options also on the flash print software let's save this and slice it so check the preview it's going to take us 43 minutes preview and this is the printer in preview mode the print in preview mode you can shift through the layers here and it looks okay we're going to export this save it to the disk okay on the desktop yes so we are done here we're going to use these options on the flash print software start the flash print software and one thing you have to do is actually enable the expert mode in preferences I'm going to get the print here and printing window type you can choose basic mode and expert mode we need this expert mode to change this ya options okay so we're going to load the spinner we're going to place it on the platform and slice it by pressing print as you can see we have some options here you can choose the PLA option and also the speed low standard high hyper fast or slow I already changed all the the options we need and have a template here as comparison and we have the layer height 0.25 first layer height zero point thirty temperatures to 250 and platformed or the bat 45 degrees Celsius shall count to infill 10% hexagonal so that's all the options we'll choose from the rest 3d software I'm going to slice this but as you can see they are not as many options as you have for the idea maker I'm going to slice this save the configuration and slice to the desktop save it on desktop yes and this is the sliced part you can shift through the layers here for the slider and it looks okay let's send these two files to the printers and see how they are going to turn out after the print but as you can see just putting this side-by-side the flashforge the idea maker software it's just more polished on the polished side you do have much more options here the slice options here are with templates you get great option C and the Edit function you can change anything here and you also have advanced functions like acceleration a jerk you can edit here you can also have let's see ironing mode or shell mode if you always mode you want to have and yeah I just think the idea maker software is a better option than the flash pin software but let's see how these two will perform when we get the prints out of the printer so I have the files here on my USB stick but before we start the print I just want to show you the camera in here on this machine the camera is inside the chamber and it's fully enclosed but it is not as rigid as you would like it what we also have here are these flicker brush assemblies and these are actually the same as for the Stratasys printers so if you print you do not have to use a wipe tower you can use the flicker brush assembly - yeah brush off the nozzle one problem we have here is that on the sides you can just get in the print material and these just are not yea connected here and if you try to get in a material it will not fit most spools this one is just fitting fine but if you can see that it's not flush with the surface so if I just want to use a 1 kilogram spool here I can put that in that's ok but I cannot put on the cover so if you like to put on the cover it will not close so what I did is and if you if you force it to close this structure here is pressing onto the spool and it's actually blocking the spool from spinning and what I did is just get a plastic cap here and fix it here so if I close this it will just push the cover to the outside so that this structure is not blocking the spool like this and we have a it's not flush it's just poking out this way so if you want to use one kilogram spools you have to check if they actually will fit in there also the spool diameter in a diameter if it's so small it will not fit onto this spool holders on the new version they have the version - this is different so if you get one get the version - so I will just start the printer now load the material and start the print so I just loaded the material on the right side and we're just going to start to measure this actually there is a fan on the bottom side for the electronics and it's on constantly so you're going to hear this in during every print you can see we're here on 62 DB here but on the bottom side it's more like 70 dB I wouldn't just measure the front and the back the side is 58 DB back is 60 DB so it's just heating up the nozzles and we're gonna check the volume the moist level when they're print starts okay just started printing so we are going to measure the level and it's really loud we have here 63 dB on the bottom we have 70-72 degree on the side we have 65 dB oh and the bag really loud here we have two fans running and we have 80 DB on the back I will just hold this this is what we get at the back so the back is really loud let's see it's just printing it's not at full speed it's just printing the first layer we will have to wait a few minutes and then check what it's going to be on the noise level when the axis is just moving faster okay so we have printed the first layer and it's printing the second layer and actually the noise is getting the noise that was getting higher and higher so let's see [Music] we have 65 DB here sixty-four and actually there is a vibrating noise coming from the machine I will try to get this on the Mac microphone [Music] [Music] okay I don't know if this work but it's really not [Music] okay 63 dB 72 on the bottom and we have the IT point-five at the back so we're going to let this fish and get out the print compare the print quality with the foam from the race first we are going to start the print of the race machine and then we're going to get these two parts out and check how they perform so the print just finished I will get this out so you can see how the platform the bed is actually mounted so it just pulled on this edge here and get it out it's a thin bet but it's not magnetic so you you can flex it a little bit to get the part out so the pot looks like this right now let's see if you can get this out okay it's off let's see and these are actually mounted by hooks this is the old version the new version does have a magnetic bed so you want to get this in you just push it down and push it forward and that's the print see and yeah the backside is strange we will look at this later on it's the part and let's see if it spins yeah so it does spin not as good as I would imagine doing it a little bit so okay it's spinning some complaints and my comments that these episodes are too long so I didn't print the race 3d spinner on the race 3d too but I have one from my first episode and we're just going to compare this one with the one from the flashforge creator 3 I have my gimbal here and my setup so I'm gonna cut this into the video this is the part from the flashforge printer you can see that it has some you know you say burn marks in there I think this is because of the filament I have used before actually the front side is looking good if we spin it a dust bin and the layer hates and the shells are consistent on this one so the only thing I can see here is that the first layer is a little bit thicker than the other layers maybe there was a problem with a set offset with it set zero but all in all it looks good we don't have any defects we can see that the seams are placed on the outer shell here let's see if I can get a get to focus here so we have the shells here the seams this is different on the rest 3d part the rest really part you know we already talked about this is really great it spins more freely and we don't have any defects on the outer shells and we don't see any seams on this part because it starts at the edge here and you have a gap I didn't notice this on the first try on my first episode but let's see if we can get a focus for this let's look and as you can see there's a gap I think this is under extrusion on the same placement but all in all this print was really great as for the one for the flesh Forge Grade three the prints are great they are ok we don't have any defects only the first layer is squished here and bigger than the other ones yes so I will show you some of the other prints I have done with the race and also with the flashforge and this is actually one I did with the flashforge printer this is for my a Lego Mars Pro and it's just stick together here it's ABS print it printed really well actually but what I have to say here in regards of the flashforge creator 3 is that the bet if she adhesion is sometimes really bad on ABS so you can see the bottom here I don't know if you can see this this is this was not sticking well it did print and it also finished but the bottom sites are not good whereas parts for the race 3d I have printed many many parts and small parts actually these are the parts from the race and they are actually really good gauge pitch together and you only have to use a gap of 0.1 millimeters to have the slide into each other but what happened on one of my prints is that I got under extrusion I will show you this here and actually this was one of these parts I did print and it started to under extrude and what actually happened is that the idler wheel or the screw on the extruder head is getting loose or was getting loose because of the fast movements of the head so I had to tension I had to get the screw in and get more tension onto the filament and that was it actually I also got some lift offs if you can see this and this was because of bad calibration or auto leveling but all in all it was great you know any defects you can see here that the layers are squished together because of the bended part here so what I have to say on this is I will just get everything together and give you my last comments on all of this let's start with the print quality if we look at the parts from the flashforge creator 3 and race 3 de 2 they are actually on the same level the print quality is really good for both of these printers and I couldn't find any defects on the outer shells of these parts if we talk about noise that's a really different thing the flesh watch creator 3 is really noisy it does have noise level of about 65 to 80 DB whereas the race is at the range of 55 to 60 dB so if you want to use the flashforge he in some kind of classroom this will go in this this is too noisy but if you want to put it somewhere in your basement and can close the door you will not hear it but for a classroom or for some kind of office it's a tool and so print-quality both are the same noise level the registry D wins in this regard it's much quieter than the flesh watch creator 3 the other thing is the software if we look at both of these slices software's the flashforge software named flash print is easy to use but it does not have as many options as the idea maker slicer software so I do like the idea maker software more I would give race-ready on this regard again a point and a win because they are actually doing a great job on maintaining the software they are getting out betters they are getting out new features and if you post something into the forum's you get a reply so I would say software why is there a 3d e 2 wins the last thing I want to talk is about service actually the flash was created 3 did have a problem when I first got it the belt on the epsilon axis was loose and I posted a ticket on the forum flashforge and they reply back and they did try to help me out on doing this but the case is completely clipped so you have these clips on the sides and if you want to remove these these will going to break that's what happened actually I just tried to get off the top cover and the side covers and all the clips we have in here broke off so putting these covers back on was not possible anymore so what I had to do was contact the flash for support again sent in my yeah my my defect printer and had to pay 180 euros and did get a new one a new one it was one with 60 60 hours printer so it was okay for me but I had to pay $180 euros sorry for the exchange whereas the race treaty II - I didn't have any defects yet I'm just using it for around a month now I don't have any problems with the access or with the extruders the ticket system is a little bit different here if we have a problem and you are from Europe you cannot use their ticket system for the US so if you put in a ticket there and say I want to have a support they will just redirect you to your reseller so you have to go over your reseller for having support on the printer whereas if you use the forum the refugee forum is really nice they will actually help you out and on the same day and yeah I did get a firmware update for this printer in about one day or so so they are working on that and they are really fast the last thing we have to talk about this price yeah actually the flashforge creator 3 is 2500 years whereas the grace 3d is 3,600 years so it's 1100 euro up or more for the race printer the question is if you want to pay that price I would say I would suggest you get the race 3d - if you have the money because it does have a more polished software the interior and also the the way they have been designing this printer is much more polished than what is with the Creator 3 but if you don't have the money and you are at the edge of 2000-2500 heroes get the version 2 of the creator 3 but be aware that this printer is really really noisy I will have to say I'm going to use my race really more and maybe get this one into the basement and use it not so often anymore so that's it actually if we have any questions or any comments posted in the comments section okay I will try to answer these and subscribe to our channel and see you soon here at 2 in stock

Channel: Twins Talk

Views: 18,343

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Id: GSITzwPj2UE

Length: 32min 27sec (1947 seconds)

Published: Sun May 24 2020