Projecting Tactics For a Weak Climber

the best way to find out if this works is well the best way i can find out is test it on somebody else and then you'll get loads of comments [Music] come on come on come on no wow you were holding it alright welcome to part two of heart is easy where in first episode i took lattice training performance assessment and my performance wasn't let's say much of a performance so how weak are my fingers good question so in half crimp we are coming in around 110 and typically what we're seeing for for the 7c level in sport climbing is around 150 body weight so i'm like really far from 7c climber it's quite it's quite far out so if you want to see the full assessment it's in this video and if you want to see how somebody weak like me can climb hard roots easy it's in this video but jokes aside of course what's hard or easy it's very subjective however i thought i'm gonna share with you my projecting tactics and maybe you will find something useful now in case you missed the previous episode this is charlie to the right you see that yeah he has one pad more rich on each side and he's smaller he has just more room so this is like monkey in action i swear bolder and does it though you'll get longer arms okay it's a nice joke that is a really nice hold come on and it's looking like the only nice hole weak climber projecting rule number one don't climb first save your energy let your friend to put the quick draws for you and find those nice holes so you can stay happily weak and if you don't know how to convince your friend to go first here is an example will you put your dress yourself or you need our help i don't need your help i'm i'm used to put my drawers up on myself lately i went always climbing with guys who weren't that gentlemanish wait so you're giving draws to somebody else no no hannah said before that she keeps putting the drawers blah blah i i just said you don't have to so this actually was the crux of the route where you have to be either very strong or very creative okay [Music] no we're still on site wow so for the right hand you have this slippery crimpy hold which is really not good and then the next hold is quite far off and this is hana trying the same move the next hold is this crimpy side pull right here okay i'm going to change beta a bit beta yeah i'm going to come into this one beta beta but i don't know what's correct come on that is a killer so after trying to brute force the crux in many different ways no way dude no way charlie finally came up with idea how to do it which was to kick the left leg to the wall and do a drop knee yeah come on so not very obvious but such a fun move right leg up and left leg kicks into the wall that's what you need to do drop me [Laughter] if you actually drop me more you will not need to use passat yet save it for later you always need two percent so that's actually not always the case oftentimes it's more about understanding the move yeah now the feet up up up and kick yeah and kick and drop knee drop knees stay close to the wall that's it that's it i cannot drop anymore yeah so we analyzed these moves in the evening and this is what happened the next day what the [ __ ] this was easy [Music] now change the drop knee to other side and right arm up yeah yeah okay so this left leg ninja move unlocked the first half of the crux however it's not over yet right leg up all right since weak climbers we have very limited amount of energy rule number two is to save it okay take me here see how weak people solve problems so instead of trying the moves from get go sometimes it's actually better to take and get yourself familiar with the holes search for hidden holes and opportunities and since i saw charlie already i knew that i have to try this kick and a drop knee come on man okay take and right away when i understand that the move works i take to save the energy and now i can try the moves that i skipped now lower me a bit i want to see if i can link a bit more up so this is that this and that this is that this and that i mean okay [Music] whoa you're good yeah i'm good i'm good that's why we wear helmets as a player it broke i think football and the other one is also moving yeah you need to step on another part next i wanted to start from this rest hold and see if i can do the kick and the drop knee and the trick here was to find which footholds will work for me which i got lucky in the first go critic good next so as you can see on a first go i'm not even trying to climb big sections continuously the reality about our muscles is that the more tired we get the more pumped we get the longer it takes for them to recover so they can deliver anywhere close to max power and max power is what you need to efficiently work out the hardest parts of the route now the fun part from here there also before i start a new section it's very important to stand in exactly the same position where i finished the previous section if i don't do that it's going to be very difficult to flow between these different sections and this is actually quite common mistake okay do this if you can put a drawer in no it's too far don't pull me don't pull me okay and yeah grabbing on a quick draw is totally normal and every pro does that [Laughter] now a huge warning about grabbing quick draws is that you should avoid grabbing your quick draw below you because in this case if you would take a fall this can happen where you have a lot of fall until you are in position where you could potentially hold yourself but the force will be so big that you might not be able to hold on the sling your hand will slip and the quick draw can penetrate your palm i've seen pictures it doesn't look fun okay climbing all right next i wanted to link both sections together to see how well the transition between them flows it was also a good time to focus a little bit more on footwork this helps a lot to remember your foot placements and potentially do less mistakes in the future thank you nice okay so this is doable so now i kind of don't have a plan apart from stepping up high and going into unknown this is gonna be fun i'm windy you climbing okay [Music] what the [ __ ] so the final section of the crux was a little mystery for me it was already getting dark mama mia i don't know what's next so yeah it's not only you who cannot see much in this clip i'm flying and the only idea i was seeing is a huge dynamic move into a sloppy hold and i was not sure if that's the right oh my god wait to do it okay i'm falling and after multiple attempts i realized that i'm not gonna get to the top today and that's okay my only goal was to put the next quick draw nice and come back the next day all right good what's the plan i'm going to take it slow today i'll say take a lot more mel learning strategy from weak people i think it's the best way climate clipping nice easy come on yeah yeah yeah come on yeah come on no go for the tick mark come on yeah easy oh come on some nice flying oh well then that was easy this time you have to be quick though after that move all right fun time this is a final part of the crux which starts with two really good crimps and a very big move nice attempt my foot just flipped wow you were holding it [Music] boom boom boom [Music] nice that's it okay clipping okay take being more strategic today no yeah definitely and talking about the strategy here i hang on the rope again not climbing but inspecting the route searching for the footholds and handholds climbing i actually wanted to start just a few moves before the big move to see how my setup flows into the dino [Music] nice ben [ __ ] so since this was the first time of me in this position in daylight obviously i didn't had the perfect beta yet but it's okay the step one was just to do whatever it takes to clip the next quick draw that's it that's it and then optimize okay take me here i want to find phone calls slopper yeah this slopper is nice so when obvious doesn't work you have to try something else while for me and charlie the dino was working pretty well hannah decided to climb around it i just wanted to try what the [ __ ] maybe this is gonna work you could you get left hand where your right is somehow nice nice nice nice above on the right so we spent two half days projecting this route and the goal for these first two days was just to break and tire route down into multiple sections ideally from rest position to rest position or in this case since this route had very long and complicated crux i decided to break down the crux into multiple sections as well so while entire route might look really long intimidating and hard and complicated if you start using divide and conquer principle that will for sure become easier so i go first because i don't like to be stressed if you stand and then i have to climb i feel more stressy so i will sand and then you can kill that i don't think that's fair but i'll take it [Music] i think it's okay i think it's okay and so after working out the moves we took few rest days and finally it was time to deal with descending pressure everything looks different in the sun now you might be wondering why the hell we are climbing in direct sun well yes it's true that sun will make the friction worse however it was a relatively cold day and i just wanted to treat the first go as a warm-up without worrying about sending too much so whatever happens happens after very easy beginning you have a mini cracks which starts with this mono pocket or if you have tiny fingers like me you can squeeze in two fingers and then the next move is into tiny tiny crimp and you have to pull on it so definitely not the smartest idea to do such moves without a proper warm-up or on a warm-up go in my case however my strategy sometimes is to just go for it but be very observant of my body and if something feels wrong stop immediately i also knew that this route has a lot of rests so i can warm up on easier sections and then shake it out during the rests here you can see me shaking on every single opportunity and trying to recover as much as they can because i knew that for the crux i need 100 of my energy so i try to stay as calm as possible and rest longer than i think i will need in the dark creeps no come on you got it [Music] nice [Music] [Music] [Applause] nice nice buddy well done i'm not yet so while it looks like it's done it's actually far from it my forearms are exploding i'm holding two crimps that would be quite good however i'm so pumped that they are far from being good plus i know that my mind tends to go into kind of tunnel vision when i get really tired and it's really hard to focus so at the same time i'm waiting for the clarity to come back i'm desperately trying to find a better hold or better body position that could allow me to shake just a little bit more to not rush me into the next moves yet because i really don't want to mess up here i don't know how to swap arms but since the holes are not that good to rest on i knew that i have to start thinking what's next and the next is the left hand up so i decided to swap my arms so my right arm stays on the better part of the hold quick glance over the footholds and hope for the best nice dude so a little camera teleportation magic while i'm enjoying the last rest and a final section which is not really hard but a little bit tricky and tricky is not that great when you are under sending pressure good trying come on come on dude nice so only few moves left but as a true weak climber i couldn't miss an opportunity for a good shake notice that i'm not rushing to clip here it's much better to shake it out first get into a better position and only then clip also notice my left leg i stepped out of overhang as much as i can this makes my position way less overhanging and much better to rest and since i'm very close to sending my sending pressure keeps going up and up and up and the trick is to at least try to stay as calm as you can [Music] [Music] how does that feel dude [Music] trying to get my breath back back um it's even the easiest 7c i've ever or i got already stronger so till this point it's been only two months of me training with lattice guys so it's a bit early to judge what kind of effect that had on my climbing performance however in next video i'm gonna show you how all of my training looked like and some numbers but for now it's charlie's time to send this 7c [Music] uh [Music] nice come on [Music] yeah come on nice [Music] come on you got this yeah come on come on buddy yeah come on come on [Music] yeah come on come on come on knew it dude you knew it i knew it you knew wrong thanks yeah i almost lose my feet yeah you need to work on the section after this big move so well classic mistake of not having the perfect beta right after the hardest move because that's charlie his send on the first go he tried to fix that and this is his second goal for the day [Music] come on [Music] come on come on yeah come on yeah yeah come on come on come on come on come on no man but no cigar but very very close i really want to do it today though that's the thing so stress and pressure it's probably inevitable to happen when you're trying to push your max grade while sometimes you might just get lucky and send most of the time it's actually better to allow yourself to fail just tell yourself i'm gonna climb this route as far as i can and if i fail that's okay no i think you did this way too easy you did this all this there's another aa here now if your mind resists the idea that failing is okay just keep pushing through it because the reality is whether you send or you don't nothing is gonna change in your life after every fail you're still alive you're still surrounded by great friends having great time in action so by pushing through these fails the pressure will start going lower and lower and lower until it becomes manageable and at some point chances are that you are going to send what is superglue apparently was made in the second world war to close wounds so we are closing the wounds now so we're closing wounds well the best way to find out if this works is uh well the best way i can find out is test it on somebody else and then you'll get loads of comments on saying how to do it correctly okay let's do it let's do it i suppose let's just do that there okay you think i should press it together or just leave it like this oh [ __ ] i don't know i don't know oh no [ __ ] i'm going i'll see you guys later so now you feel like sending yes i mean i stick to the wall now you need to hold your finger up in the wind like this yeah yeah yeah the wind's coming i know the answer the wind's coming from that way though now you know the answer it's getting there it's getting there really okay we wait we wait but then you can sand it down and you can make the finger you want you can you can do it you can have the perfect perfect this sounds great can you also tell for people to not do this yeah don't do it i'm gonna give it one go hike or my finger already hurts [Music] yeah yeah pink nice right leg up [Music] this move is not hard at all [Music] why don't you get rid of the tape it's open again oh really yeah i would not climb low on me let it heal [ __ ] i'm delay slave today so your uh glue trick blue trick didn't work at all i have now yeah so real life is not always a movie although you're kind of watching a movie but at the same time you're watching a real life and real life doesn't always have a happy ending what happened i'm not sure dude this hole is so [ __ ] hard now yummy pressure under pressure under pressure yep as i already said sometimes the best way to deal with pressure is to just let it beat you then stand up and try again it will make your mind much stronger not only in climbing but in life as well on [Music] [Applause] come on you got this yeah come on [Music] just need a moment yeah i was like if he's gonna whip on this clip imagine that oh i'm shaking dude climb to a bit higher and then try to rest here yeah this right hand side pull is really good for resting [Music] okay [Music] okay enjoy [Music] thank you [Music] nice come on yeah nice [Music] you are gonna fall now a danker come on that would suck wouldn't it whoa dude i was there just shaking away like can like calm down calm down i couldn't i couldn't i was like if i stay here any longer i'm just making it worse like but yeah it went nicely good run you too dude well done good send as well good balloon really good playing in a how did the harness feel yes super nice like whoa you felt the difference yeah a lot why are you doing marketing to mommy yeah well i'm not i'm not i'm not i'm all right so he's not so i will since mahmoud has been a huge support for my channel i wanted to say special thank you for that and the story behind the harness is that we've been recording a ton of delaying experiments and mel's legs started hurting from flying all the time that's for hurting your legs so thank you mel for flying and mammoth for supporting and in the next episode we will jump on our first 8a come on it's kind of beautiful here you want to see cool now so as always enjoy climbing projecting and if you want some karma points you can visit my website that helps me to pay the bills and see you in the next episode

Channel: Hard Is Easy

Views: 103,478

Keywords: Sport Climbing, Lead Climbing, Rock Climbing, How to Lead Climb, how to climb outdoors, how to lead climb outdoors, how to sport climb outdoors, climbing tips for beginners, climbing techniques, climbing strategy, rock climbing for beginners, rock climbing tips, rock climbing documentary, rock climbing basics, lead climbing, lead climbing tutorial, lead climbing tips, lead climbing basics, sport climbing, sport climbing basics, sport climbing technique, sport climbing tips

Id: v3gmoo1OoL4

Length: 33min 38sec (2018 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 10 2022