Project Egress, With Adam Savage

hello internet my name is Quinton and this is blondie axe well this July is the 50th anniversary of the launch of Apollo 11 and along with that I've been given the honor of participating in project egress so what's going on here is Adam savage savage Industries Association with the Air and Space Museum at the Smithsonian are putting together a model of the Apollo 11 egress hatch and so Adam is going to be putting this thing together live and all of us makers are collaborating to make parts for this model so the parts don't have to be functional so we can use any kind of material or process that we want to make them whatever speaks to us and hey this is bloody hacks so you know we're gonna machine it and no CNC here this is gonna be all manual okay let's dive in okay here is the part that they find folks at the Smithsonian and savage industries have tasked me with making it's called top three and that's looks kind of like a turnbuckle there's a square clevis at one end that's threaded into a longer shaft and the real PSL easy stance on this part is that spherical bearing at the end now the drawings call for making that spherical bearing from scratch but I've actually got a trick for how to do that that I will show you in a moment so here's what I'm going to use to make it this is a nice piece of 6061 aluminum around a bar it's nice and Spacey and keen keeping with the theme of this project and we're going to start with the more complex part which is the long kind of rod end of the turnbuckle with the spherical bearing in the end and so I'm going to go ahead and chuck this up in the lathe and face off the end as is tradition and those stringy chips are kind of a preview of things to come now we're gonna need tail support here because this is going to be some long thin turning and so I'm going to center drill here and set up my tail stock for tail support I'm gonna blue up one end here and mark off my overall length just so I know kind of what my working space is and I can square up my tool post and get ready to do some turning a little bit of cutting fluid on there now in this first clean up pass you can see that I'm getting kind of a lousy surface finish there so I haven't haven't got my speeds and feeds dialed in yet so we'll be experimenting a little bit more with that here shortly and as you can see from this rat's nest chip I still do not quite have my speeds and feeds right but don't worry we will get it sorted out as you can see here now we're getting some good chip action aluminum on the lathe is is pretty tricky it really likes to make those long stringy chips so my first goal is to turn the whole part down to the largest diameter which is the outer diameter of the spherical bearing end of the part even though that's going to be flat I can remove the bulk of that material here on the lathe and now that I've got the whole part to that diameter I can go ahead and blew it up and Mark all of my changes in diameter so I've got the big spherical bearing at one end and then the kind of medium-sized end of the other and then the skinny section in the middle this is kind of a barbell shaped part so I'm turning the that whole lower section down to the diameter of the next largest which is the stubby end where the square clevis threads in so my speeds and feeds are finally cooperating here I'm getting some decent chip action and some decent surface finishes now I'm going to turn down the skinny barbell section in the middle and to do that I'm using a parting tool to cut in on the shoulder so that I have some clearance for getting my tool in there because I need to be able to turn down the middle so I plunge cutting with that parting tool gives me clearance at one end so I can get my tool in there to do my turning now aiming for 390 on this middle section I'm about half of that over so I'm gonna go ahead and take that this middle diameter here isn't critical and I'm not one to look a gift half now in the mouth next up we're going to bevel the ends of the stubby section as per the drawing so I've got my 90 degree it chamb per tool in here I'm just gonna give those guys a nice beautiful little chamfer nothing says machined like champers all right switch up now to the parting blade because we are done with the lathe work for this part so I pulled out my tail stock and Yahtzee now I need to flip the part end for end so I can do the blind tapped hole at the other end where the clevis screws in so switching the Chuck's out now I've got my four jaw going in here with my copper soft jaws which is a good setup for a second operation it never hurts to put a board down in the ways in case you drop the Chuck so this hole in the bottom is an m6 one thread so I'm tapping here with the tapping size for m61 which is a five millimeter and then I go in here with my m6 tap and then a little deburring make it all look nice and pretty looking good over to the mill now this is the first of several challenging setups with this part because it's a barbell shape it's actually pretty difficult to hold the barbell section in the middle is too small for my vblocks for any sort of traditional round part holding systems and because it's a barbell shape I can't get it in a collet so what I did is I went ahead and made a V block out of some scrap and I made it out of aluminum so it wouldn't Mar up apart and then on the near side I've got a machined square block to take up the space on the other side and I put a little copper shim in there that compresses with the vise and kind of helps hold that part nice and snug and then I'm just centering it up with the edge finder there now with that thing centered I can go ahead and machine the flats on either side of this big end which is going to form the spherical bearing here eventually and with both sides machined flat it's starting to look like the beginnings of that part now onto that spherical bearing now you can certainly make a spherical bearing in Scituate tooling but it's a pretty challenging thing to do now what you can however do is by press in spherical bearings because the vehicle bearings are hard to make it's a common problem they sell pre-made ones that you can buy and press in to your part now the challenge here is that there is no store-bought Miss miracle bearing that has the ID of six millimeter and the OD of 15 millimeter or part there wasn't any wiggle room in the design for that spherical bearing end to be any larger to accept a full-size stock spherical bearing so what I'm going to do is modify one so I've bought a larger one and I'm going to machine it down to fit into the space that I have now there is just enough excess material here that I can do this when I'm done there will be two millimeters of aluminum on the barbell part and one millimetre of steel remaining around the spherical bearing part now that's not a whole lot of strength but this is remember just a decorative piece for the Apollo 50 project so how do I go about machining this spherical bearing because there's no way to hold on to it I can't use a mandrel down the middle because it's a bearing and that little ball in the middle pivots in all directions and spins freely so there's nothing to hold on to in the center and I can't hold it by the outside because I need to machine that so what I'm doing is I've made a sacrificial Arbor and I'm super gluing the bearing to that Arbor and then what I do is I indicate on the surface of the bearing to get that true and that will mean that my Arbor has a bit of run-out in it it's going to wobble but that's fine as long as what I'm machining is running true and then I pin that in place with the tailstock and then once that glue sets now I can go ahead and machine that guy and I give the Chuck a little spin just to self-center it a little bit on the Arbor now I this Arbor is sacrificial it's mild steel so I go ahead and machine myself some run-out area for this next step and now I can start machining down the the OD of the bearing and I'm taking very light passes because it's only held there with superglue and I'm using a lot of cutting fluid that's really important because the enemy of all glue is heat and so it's crucial that this part not get too warm if the part gets too warm the glue is going to break loose and all bets are off so I'm machining this very gently light passes lots of cutting fluid to keep that temperature down now I need 630,000 this dimension has to be dead nuts on because there is no wiggle room in the aluminum part I have to hit exactly that dimension so I've got it a half bow over right now and I don't want to press my luck on the lathe so I am gonna go ahead and use some Emery cloth and bring it down that last half thou of course always cover your ways when using any kind of stone based tools because that grit will scratch up and damage your ways let's see how we did six hundred and thirty thousand uh --ts on beautiful and now we can just take our sacrificial arbor over at the bench and apply some heat and that glue breaks free now we need to make the hole in the aluminum part that will accept that bearing so I've got it set up in my Vblock arrangement again and I'm indicating it flat to make sure that top surface is horizontal and I've got a pit of a janky setup here but this is what I needed to do so there's a one two three block and and a machinist Jack and then on top of the machinist Jack is a piece of sacrificial scrap that is machined parallel top and bottom and then a clamp holding everything together so that's that sacrificial scrap is going to be necessary as you'll see here shortly and then I use the edge finder to find the far end of the part because the drawing specifies the exact distance that the center of my bearing needs to be from the far into the part so once I found that end then I can use the digital readout on the mill to find the exact place where my hole needs to go and then I send her up left and right with the edge finder there and now going with my center drill but I'm just kissing it and the reason is the set the location of this hole is really critical because not only does it have to be the right distance from the end of the part but there's zero wiggle room on either side there's only two millimeters of material on when I'm done on both sides of this hole so if I don't get that hole dead nuts on one of the sides is going to be too thin and possibly not strong enough so the reason that I've just kissed it with the center drill is because I want to have a sanity check on my location so with that little center drill now I can go in there with a compass and scribe out the circle to the right diameter and now I can just kind of visually check and make sure that I've got everything in the right place and furthermore as I do the subsequent operations to make this hole I can see as the edges of the hole approach my scribed line there that things are lining up correctly and then I can make adjustments before it's too late as I approach that line then back in with the center drill for realsies now and now I can start hogging out the bulk of the material with drills and I'm working my way up slowly in a lot of sizes because my my setup here isn't super super rigid I don't want to stress it with too much tool pressure and so I'm going up slowly and drill size so I went up to half inch with the drills but now I need to get the final size hole and for that we can't rely on drills this again this hole needs to be dead nuts on 630,000 tended for because again there's only going to be two millimeters of aluminum there and I don't want to stress that too much so I'm going to go for a perfect RC to fit and I'm gonna lock tight it in place and so for a perfect RC to fit there's really only one way to do that and that's with the boring head so if you've never seen a boring head before it's rather like someone described a lathe over the telephone to an alien and that alien then went off and made a lathe in the stupidest way possible it's so it works the same way as a lathe except that the stock remains still and the entire tool post of the lathe spins around the work it's goofy and it looks silly while you're doing it but much like the lathe when you need an absolutely perfectly dimensioned round thing the boring bar is your friend and in this case we need a dead nuts on 630,000 and so this is that we're gonna do it so hence the name this guy takes boring bars and there's an offset hole in the base of that guy and there's a little dovetail that slides in and out and so you can adjust that dovetail for the diameter of the boring operation that you need to do and much like the lay the first thing you do is touch off on the surface which you can do by hand and then you dial in a little bit of offset and down you go and here's a little close-up so you can see how beautiful that finish is boring heads do a really really beautiful job they leave a perfectly finished and perfectly dimension hole and then much like the lathe after each pass you go a little further and then down we go again boring is precise but it is not fast so that's why you hog out as much as you can with the drill ahead of time and you can see here that I'm feeding with the quill you can also feed with the column or the need depending on your mill but because this is these are light passes and aluminum feeding with the quill fine again I'm taking light passes because this is not a very rigid setup and this isn't a very strong material I don't want to push my luck now and I think I'm getting close I go in there with the snap gage to get the diameter of that hole and then I measure the snap gage with my micrometer and we've still got a few thousand one more finishing pass and a quick test fit with my bearing and it's very very close it's close enough that I feel comfortable taking it out of the vise and test fitting on the bench and you can see that it it doesn't quite go all the way in I've got just a tiny bit of taper or there's a little bit of a burr or something in the bottom of that hole so I'm gonna go in here with a tapered Swiss file and I just clean up that hole a little bit and now that is a perfect perfect fit next we need to round off the ears of that guy because again the drawing calls for the outer perimeter this part to be round and so for that I'm going to use this small rotary table and the first step in setting up a rotary table in the middle is to indicate it in and so you use a dial test indicator and you check it in all four dimensions and make small adjustments of the position of the mill table until that guy reads zero all the way around and then you know that your rotary table is centered exactly under your spindle you can use fancy tools like coaxial indicators or other things to do this but this is the low-budget way just a mirror and dial test indicator or in a pinch your cell phone on selfie mode and then we need to clamp our part to the rotary table and indicate in the part to get it centered on the table so I always start with the doubt test indicator above the part just so I know once I'm in the ballpark and proceed with the same indicating that you saw earlier now we can go ahead and mill the sides of our part round and now you can see I've got the part suspended above the mill table on some sacrificial shims because I need to be able to mill the entire side of it there and I'm always turning the table clockwise so that I'm conventional milling and not climb milling and working a rotary table is much like working the compound on your lathe there's kind of a two-handed technique that you wanted to do to try to keep that rotation smooth now unfortunately I intended to do all 270 degrees of that rounded and on the rotary table setup but there wasn't enough space with my fixture to get in around the spindle on the mill unfortunately so I wasn't able to go all the way around so I'm gonna go ahead and finish up with some files on the bench to get the undersides of those guys nice and round so won't look quite as nice as the machined top does but I'll give it a little bit of an artisan feel now we're ready to glue the bearing in place so I'm very carefully putting glue in just a couple of spots because there are oil holes on the bearing and we really don't want to get locked tight into those so I just ease that guy in there and wipe away the excess of course being very careful not to get locked tight in the swivel of the bearing itself Loctite 603 is amazing stuff once it cures you will never ever be able to get that bearing out and to clean up my file work and dialing the shape there a little bit I'm using my Dremel drill press attachment as kind of an improvised spindle sander and this actually worked out really really well so with that part done let's go ahead and make the square clevis now for the other end so one end is kind of a square Fork and the other end is threaded m61 so once again we start on the lathe with our 6061 round bar and i'm going to face off the end and center drill to set up four tail support once again and once again I'm turning the outer diameter to the largest diameter of the entire part which is the hypotenuse of the cross-section of that square section so we've got quite a ways to go there meandering journey and keep that metal turning [Music] not I've hit that largest diameter I can blue and mark up my dimensions for my diameter changes once again and now we can turn down the skinny part where the threads are going to go all the way down to six millimeters now on to the finishing pass here and you might notice that the end where the tail support is is kind of flared out and that's because I couldn't get the tool bit in there close enough without touching the the live Center and so here's a little trick when you when you can't quite get to the end on your last couple of passes just go ahead and flip the tool post around at the very end and you can just kind of blend that area in with the rest of the diameter and how we can part this guy off Yahtzee over to the mill now I did not cut the threads on this part yet because I wanted to be able to hold it in a collet block as you see here and once again we can mill the flat sides that are gonna form the fork and this set up is once again a little sketchy but it did work out actually very well now when I went to know the backside there wasn't room for that clamp anymore so I set up an indicator stand as a little bit of a backstop against the tool pressure and I just took lighter passes and it was fine now here's where things went a little bit of riot I thought I could just use this same setup to mill the top and bottom flat but in fact if you think about it the way that an mill is spinning the tool pressure here is well gonna do that yeah I should have seen that coming so I set it up in a much simpler and more logical way in the vise now wait a minute if you're really astute you may have just noticed something not only did I change my setup here but the part got thicker what happened there yeah so I often screw up that math where you have to turn a diameter that can contain a rectangle and I often use I forget to use the hypotenuse instead of the long dimension of the rectangle so I actually on the lathe made that large diameter too small and I didn't realize it until this moment so yeah it happens I buckled up and made the part again and with the power of YouTube we're right back where we were and I can mill the top and bottom of the area that will form the fork you know clean up the end while we're here you know he's like to do a spring pass in the climb milling direction just to leave a nice finish alright I indicated in once again and now we can drill the hole that's going to go through I've got a sacrificial parallel underneath it here so that I can just drill straight down through the part and that's again once again a just a machine scrap of aluminum that will act as a parallel now I was going to set up to mill the fork outboard as you see here and I had set it up in the collet block and I was indicating it flat and then I remembered what happened with the part when I tried to mill the top and bottom decided you know this collet block is really not strong enough to hold it in this position against these these milling forces I think one of the main reasons is it's a six millimeter shaft and I don't have metric kaulitz so I'm using a quarter inch collet which is really too small and so the call is is a bit over stretched and it's not gripping properly so yeah this this setup is is not very rigid so instead I used my head and I went back to the vise and set it up with my sacrificial parallel underneath once again and this of course was a very straightforward milling operation so it never hurts to stop and think about your setup before you I start milling and the Dro was the secret here to getting my slot the perfect depth with a really nice inside finish I just had to stop the mill in exactly the same place each time now at this point I've got the center channel cut out and I just need to mill sideways a little bit to widen it out and there's our final fork it's looking good now back over to my improvised spindle sander to round off the corners this doesn't need to be super precise so I didn't want to set up the rotary table all over again just for this so I did it this part by hand and then clean it up on some Emery paper and now we can take it back over to the lathe and set it up in the Forge ah once again to cut the threads on this guy and then just go in there with an m6 die and cut those threats and then to get right up to that shoulder I flipped the die over and do another pass and the last thing I want to do is shape the underside of this clevis to just give it a more of a svelte appearance so I started off by tapering it using the compound and this was in pretty close to the Chuck here but I was able to get in there and I did have to rearrange the tool post a couple of times to get some different angles and then once I had a basic taper in there I came back in with a round nosed form tool and just kind of came in and I wanted to give it more of a concave profile so I just had just free handed this with the hand wheels until I had a shape that I thought was kind of satisfying and I was course battling chatter here with a round nose zero rake tool like that in aluminum but I think the final result is pleasing enough there's our two parts and here's some final assembly that's all there is to it but now the moment of truth after all that effort did I hit my dimensions the drawing specifies that the two holes need to be 140 point three millimeters apart when the assembly is all together and how did we do dead nuts on oh well this project was a ton of fun and I want to thank Adam Savage and all the folks fine folks at savage industries and the Smithsonian and the Air and Space Museum for allowing me to participate in this amazing amazing project so go ahead and check out hashtag project egress and hashtag Apollo 50 to see all the other great makers that participated in this amazing project thank you very much for watching and we will see you next time you

Channel: Blondihacks

Views: 183,362

Rating: 4.9116549 out of 5

Keywords: blondihacks, machining, machinist, abom79, this old tony, vintage machinery, steam, electronics, making, maker, hacking, hacker, lathe, mill, woodworking, workshop, shop, model engineering, engineer, engineering, live steam, machine shop, metal lathe, vertical mill, metalworking, metal shop, jewlery making, diy, home improvement, resin casting, how to, do it yourself, do it yourself (hobby), ASMR, mini mill, mini lathe, projectegress, project egress, adam savage, apollo50, apollo, smithsonian

Id: SAMy_hiROyk

Length: 24min 13sec (1453 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 27 2019