Machinist Hammer! Let's Make One!

huh I wasn't actually sure that was gonna work hello Internet my name is Quinn and this is Bonnie hacks today we're gonna make one of my most requested projects a machinist hammer this is a great weekend project for beginners so let's go I'm gonna do this entirely on the lathe this is for those of you who don't have a mill yet there's one step here that was probably easier to do on a mill but I want to show you that you don't have to now a machinist hammer is different than other types of hammers in the sense that it's a very light duty hammer you can make it out of just about any material that you want because it's not it's not blacksmith hammer it's not gonna see a lot of heavy use so you don't have to make it out of drop forged dwarven mithril tool steel this is just for tap yep tapping on things hammer like this is primarily used for tapping things in in a vise on a mill or in a four jaw Chuck or tapping things straight when you're indicating on them things like that so the whole point is that the materials of the faces are softer than whatever you're hitting so in this case I'm going to use steel for the handle brass for the head and I'm going to make two different ends one out of Delrin and one out of copper now here's a look at the inside of the head and you can see how space is pretty tight in there I was originally going to make this into a dead blow hammer by making a hollow space inside and putting sand or lead shot in there but there really isn't space without making the head of the hammer quite a bit larger and the whole point of this hammer is that it's small and delicate and can get into small places in the Hobby machine shop all right let's get started with the handle I've got some 12 L 14 round bar here from the junk pile and I'm going to start by Center drilling the end here it's got a left over shoulder on the end of it there but I'm just gonna disregard that for now I'm not going to bother trying to face it off I'll bring in some tail support and I'll get some cooler done there and start turning the outer diameter of the handle the handle is basically 600000 diameter all the way down except for the very end which is threaded to go into the head and then there's a reduced diameter section in the middle for aesthetics the blue goo that you saw there is a 50/50 mix of water and cool coolant solution something I'm trying in lieu of sulfur cutting oil it smokes a lot lesson spread on machinist forums that it works almost as well so I'm giving it a shot I think the jury's still out on it okay I'm doing our finishing pass here and let's check our measurements in three places to see if we have any taper I'm expecting some taper because it's such a long part but actually I got within 1/2 without all the way down which is a pleasant surprise and boy you know sometimes the stars just align that surface finish is outstanding I was planning to polish this but it honestly doesn't need it so I'll take those winds anywhere I can get them then I blued and marked my diameters I've got the threaded area at one end a reduced diameter in the middle and that down there is going to be the handle so I'm going to start by turning down the threaded area at the top here so this needs to get threaded down all the way down to the major diameter for a 1/2 20 which is the thread I'm going to use here so after that first pass I set an indicator so that I can hit my same mark on that shoulder each time this is gonna be threaded with a die and I like to be 4 to 5 now under major diameter for that and we are at 494 and change perfect moving on now we're gonna cut the reduced diameter section in the middle so I'm gonna start by going in with a grooving tool and I'm going in a little inside of the line on each side and I'm going into the final diameter for the reduced diameter section do that at both ends then I can come in and turn down the area between those grooves and it'll make sense here in a moment why I grooved inside the lines instead of right on the lines that's turning very nicely and then on my finishing pass I'm just very careful to touch off in the bottom of that groove and feet across and the surfaces will blend together nicely and there should be no sign of having made those grooves now I can come in with my chamfering tool and touch off with the point on the inner diameter very gently so that I don't marred up and then move across to that line and it'll finish out the diameter and leave me with a chamfer exactly on my line this is a good time to get rid of that sharpie so I got some acetone there and that's very satisfying to remove and now let's nail the handles I've got my knurling tool in here so I'll set this up lots and lots of cutting fluid with knurling and relatively low speed I've got a slow feed on there so I crank it down to the final depth that I want on the neural and then I just feed it across and keep it nice and lubricated it's feeding very very slowly because the lathe is running slowly but it's actually on a 5,000 feed rate which seems to be working quite well and then I go as close to the chuck as I dare and then stop it and that looks adequate now since I didn't face the end off like I probably should have I came in with this 55 degree tool lets me get really close to the center and just faced off as much of it as I could and then chamfer those corners and we'll finish off that end here in a moment oddly satisfying time to thread the end now so I've got a half inch 20 die and my tail stock die holder and that's a nice looking thread I jumped the gun a little bit on cutting this thread I really should have cut the thread relief at the base first but that's okay we can do it now so I've got a half round tool here and I've lined it up on the edge of my shoulder there and I'm just going to plunge this guy in and make a nice little curved relief there a relief like this serves a couple important purposes it gives you a run-out area if your single point cutting the thread but it also ensures that that shoulder will seat tightly against whatever it's mating with and we give it that curved profile to avoid the 90-degree corners you get with a grooving tool that would create stress risers time to part it off now and this makes a funny noise as we first encounter the knurling with the parting blade now we want a chamfer or a Filat or some kind of nice detail at the bottom of the handle here so I'm going to stop part way through and then I'll come back in with my chamfering tool and put a very generous chamfer on there once I'm happy with that then I come back in with the party blade when parting off a very long piece of stock like this I'll go in part way with the tail support in as I had done there and then I remove it when I'm close to the end and I'm supporting it a little bit with that cardboard to keep the part from sagging and binding up the groove that the parting blade is in there was never really a good time to finish facing off that end that I should have done it right away so I'm gonna come back in and do it with a file of course I could have set up a steady rest or some shenanigans but I think people forget that you can do pretty much everything with a file if you're willing to just have a little patience okay the handle is done it's looking pretty decent so we'll move on to the head next and I've got a piece of brass scrap here so I'll get this guy chucked up and I've got a lot of stick out here but I'm pretty sure I can get away with facing it brass is really easy to cut and that worked out actually really well my tool height needed a little adjusting there so I faced it again and now we're looking good and we have about 10 that would run out on the end of that part there which is typical with a long part in the three jaw so we can just tap that guy in get it straightened out in the jaws a couple more taps and and now we're within 2,000 to get it just because I'm fussy I'm gonna face it one more time because after we've straightened out the stock that end is technically no longer Square to the lathe and I'm gonna turn the outer diameter and I'm just doing a light finishing cut here because I want to basically have the head end up the same OD as the stock this stocks one inch nominal and that's about what I have in my drawing for the head this dimension isn't critical as long as the end caps match and then I'm just gonna kiss it with the file there I don't want to chamfer that edge I just want to break the sharp corner and now let's take a little ride on the tail stock so we'll start by a center drilling the end here and we're gonna make the hole for one of the hammer faces to thread into this will switch out to a pilot drill here now we need a pretty precise depth I've got a twenty thousand of the drill on the work and then I set the hand wheel to negative twenty and then when I feed in I know when the hand will hit zero the end of that drill is on that surface we can't touch off directly on the surface because of course there's a center drill there now okay switching up to the tapping drill size now four seven sixteen twenty and I'm again using the 23rd and we drill this into the same depth now when using a q-tip to clean out a bore make sure not to enter the ear canal itself that's very important now I'll use the end of the work to square up the tool post and then come back in with a chamfering tool and chamfer that inside edge time for the spring-loaded tap follower you may have seen me make this in a previous video and I'll bring in my 7/16 20 taper tap to start with when I'm using wd-40 there as a lubricant for this brass and we tap tap tap that guy I'm going to come back in with a bottoming tap since it is a blind hole and it's not especially deep we need all the threads that we can get in there that's looking very nice and just for giggles I don't have any 7/16 20 hardware to check it with but I do have this thread checking tool there's a link to this guy in the description below if you would like one it's a very very useful thing for hardware scrounging hobos like myself threading kind of messed up my champ for a little bit there so I'm gonna go in and redo it want to make really sure that those hammer faces are going to see perfectly flush on the ends of the head here we've done all we can in this setup so I'm going to mark up the end here for length and part it off Yahtzee we're gonna leave the head partially finished now because we can keep the three jaw Chuck here and use it to make the hammer faces so the first one is the Delrin here so I've got a piece of that the non trade name of this is acetyl it's a very popular machining plastic I'm gonna start by facing the end as is tradition and you can see that I'm using an aluminum tool here officially the top break for Delrin is supposed to be something like 20 degrees you practice it's so easy to cut that it honestly doesn't seem to matter what you use the stock is once again a 1 inch nominal OD so I'm just gonna take a light facing cut and get it to the same OD that the head happened to land on and here you can see how Delrin makes these thin stringy chips that wrap around the work and even the chuck and this is why a lot of machinists really hate this stuff but I'll show you a trick here in a minute that makes Delrin actually a joy to work with so that's looking really good there now I've got a shoulder turning tool here I'm just making sure I'm going to have clearance on both sides of that because we're going to turn a deep shoulder and now I'm gonna face the end one more time I do that because now I know that the tool is exactly on the end of the work and I can set up a dial indicator and just dial in to the depth that I'm going to want for this shoulder and then reset my indicator once again with a light preload and zero it so this is an easy way to get a very very precise depth not that it matters especially for this part but it's a good technique anyway you just need three things to make Delrin a joy to turn on the lathe a magnetic indicator stand zip-tie and a shop vac set that guy up pointed at your tool and look at that like magic it's like the chips never existed Delroy never breaks a chip makes one long string and whatever you do don't grab on to that string while the work is spinning it's very tempting to do that to pull it out of the way with your hand as you go but that's a surefire way to lose a finger that Delrin string is has a lot of tensile strength and it's going to wrap itself around your finger wrap itself around the work and there goes your fingers so the shopvac trick takes away all of the danger makes Delrin very very pleasant to work with this area is going to be threaded so just like we did on the handle and come back in with my half round grooving tool and make a little thread relief there and then I come back in chant for the end and much like before I'm just kissing the edge of that with a file just to break the sharp corner and now we can thread this guy 7/16 22 thread into the head and Delrin threads just comically easily the only thing is it picks up all the crap from the threading tool there and now let's do a little test fit and see if that threads into the head nicely and boy does it ever that is incredibly satisfying now I'm just gonna use the scale to set my parting blade to the right depth just by eye here is good enough and I'm gonna go in part way and then once again come back in with the chamfering tool and I'm just chamfering this a little bit because it's gonna mushroom over anyway it's chamfer will delay the mushrooming somewhat it's mostly aesthetic Gazi onto the copper face now for this I've got this beautiful piece of copper round bar that was donated to the channel copper is not cheap so I'm super grateful for this donation and this might be regular copper or there's a chance it's 1/10 free machining copper so let's find out I'm gonna face the end off here just like we did with the del Rin and that's turning really really beautifully so far and once again using my aluminum tool there and then once again I'm turning the OD with just a light finishing pass to match the OD of the head which is slightly under one inch goodness gracious this is turning you to flee I think this must be the one ten free machining copper because regular copper is a real pain in the patootie to machine and this stuff is just beautiful I'm in love with whatever this is now I got my shoulder turning tool on there again and I do the same trick with facing the end and then setting up the indicator and now I can turn my shoulder now this is a zero rake tool that I mainly use for brass I wasn't sure how it was gonna work on this copper but actually it's working really really well it's turning a beautiful chip I experimented with deeper and deeper cuts just to see how much I could get away with I think I topped out at 80,000 it was still cutting just fine it could probably go more than that so this this is cutting beautifully on each roughing pass I was stopping a couple thousand of final shoulder depth and then on the finishing pass I go all the way to zero on that indicator lock the carriage and wind out and we end up with perfect dimensions and nice finishes on both surfaces yeah once again just a with the file yeah and just like with the acetyl champ for the end and then come back in with my half round grooving tool and make a nice little thread relief at the base there once again mainly to ensure that the shoulder seats nicely against the face of the hammer one of the less awesome properties of copper is it really really doesn't take a thread well so we'll see how this goes seems like it's going okay let's take a look at that thread and yeah actually that came out a lot better than copper usually does it's certainly not as nice as the other threads you know there's tearing and stuff in it but it's much nicer than copper usually threads and test fit on there once again and that's beautiful it's really satisfying when two identically diameter two parts are threaded together yeah and then we go with the parting tool and then the chamfer tool and I try to just visually match the chamfer on the acetal end as best I can again it's gonna get mushroomed over as soon as I start using this thing anyway and then finish the part Jessie all right I've done everything I can with the three jaw Chuck now so I'll swap over to the four jaw and finish up that head we've got a couple more operations to do on that first things first I bring the head back in so we can finish it up I've got the sides protected from the jaws the some aluminum can there i dial this guy in and then I'm just gonna face off that little nub in there off the end so it doesn't interfere with the center drill and then I center drill drill and tap this end just like we did the other end so I won't bore you with all of that again next I'm going to flip two of the jaws over on the four jaw and I'm gonna clean them while I have them out it's always a good opportunity to do that and we're gonna drill the hole that the handle threads into so I'm going to hold the head sideways like this in the four jaw and I tried to use the outer step on those jaws and I didn't have enough room to do that so we gonna have to use the inner jaws and so I've got some aluminum can on there to protect the sides of the part and then I'm gonna clamp on the ends of the part as well and if you wanted to be really fussy you could protect the ends of the part with aluminum can I didn't do that so it will mark up those ends a little bit but it'll be inside the hammer where you'll never see it I'm indicating the ends using the same technique you use square stock in the for job basically moving it up and down until you find the smallest reading there and that's when you know that side is vertical and then I tap this guy in to make sure that it's seated on the jaws because it tends to move in that process now for indicating on the short sides I can't reach the material with the indicator so I'm cheating a little bit here and I'm indicating on the jaw itself this is kind of a last resort because this is assuming that my aluminum shim and everything is all perfectly even on both sides it may not be but this is certainly going to get us close enough here so I don't have enough travel on the indicator to pull it clear of the jaws between each measurements so after I check each side I pull it off to the side and then flip the part 180 and then bring it back into the same place on the jaw each time it's a little bit tedious and then after doing all that I tap it in again and then check the other dimension again just to make sure it hasn't moved and go back and forth until everything indicates correctly and now we are ready to start drilling this hole so I'm going to center drill it here just like you know cross drilling on a round part in the mill you want to start with a center drill and pecking it carefully just to make sure it starts exactly on the crest of that convex surface and then it come back in with a pilot drill and again I used the feeler gauge technique here because the depth here is quite important we don't have a whole lot of wiggle room inside the head there once that's pilot drilled then I can come back in with the tapping drill size for half-inch 20 which is what we're going to use to match the handle of course now that's looking quite nice except that there's 118 degree drill cone in the bottom of that hole and we need a flat bottom now you could come in with a boring bar however you can't generally do it in one pass the shape of the cone is such that there's too much material for one pass with the boring bar and so you have to do it in multiple steps and it can be a little tricky it's certainly doable but here's a trick that makes it quite a bit easier get yourself a Morse taper to end mill holder put a piece of all thread in the end to make it long enough for the tailstock to be able to eject it and then I put in a two flute end mill there and I just go in with that to the exact depth again using the feeler gauge to get the depth correct and I just go in and flatten out the bottom of the hole now that end mill is a little smaller than the hole so you can see I've got a little step still in there but that step then is easy to clean up the boring bar which I should do next but I forgot to do and instead I went in and started threading and I noticed that I couldn't get the thread depth that I wanted and that's when I remembered I had forgotten to bore that little step out of there so I was able to go back in after the fact go around the thread and bore out that little step and then come back in with the bottoming tap and finished that out now back to the boring bar to counterbore that for the top of the handle to seat into so once again I touch off set my indicator to get the exact depth and in we go so I'm counter boring this to 600000 er to match the top of the handle and then the depth has been calculated in CAD to make sure that the entire top surface of the handle will disappear inside the head to look really nice as I went along here I'm using my telescoping gauge to check our progress and I also sometimes call these snap gauges just to enrage commenters okay moment of truth bring the handle back in and let's do a test fit that should thread in there and then the top part of that handle should completely disappear inside the head so that you can't really see how the two pieces are joined together it should look really nice if we did this right and oh that's beautiful look at that just love that effect and it's very easy to achieve with just a little bit of math thank you mr. Lee that we are done with you for this project let's go over to the bench now and finish things up a little bit of a parting nub in there on the acetal end so I've got a razor blade there to knock that off because it is just plastic and then for the copper end I used a combination of a file and a little bit of 400 grit Emery on a piece of glass and that is looking entirely serviceable and of course none of this matters because we're about to hit stuff with this for a final assembly I'm cleaning up the threaded areas with acetone because everything's going to get locked hided together that's quite important because there's impact forces you're hitting stuff with this is a hammer after all the threaded sections will unthread themselves I found that out the first time I made one of these hammers I'm using Loctite 603 on the metal to metal connections so that's the handle into the head looking good same with the copper end into the brass head for the Delrin in I'm using regular superglue now technically most lock type products including 603 are actually cyanoacrylate based but they have something in them designed for metals and I don't know if it'll work on plastic so I just use superglue and a little buff I do say so myself that came out so nice that it's kind of a shame to go and hit stuff with it but that's what it's for this is a fantastic beginner lathe project this is a great like project number three something like that after you've made some bushings and some knobs things like that you want to make something real a little more complicated with multiple parts this is a great thing to do I hope you enjoyed watching me make it I hope you will make one too thank you very much for watching consider throwing me a little love on patreon and I'll see you next time you

Channel: Blondihacks

Views: 335,087

Keywords: blondihacks, machining, machinist, abom79, this old tony, vintage machinery, steam, electronics, making, maker, hacking, hacker, lathe, mill, woodworking, workshop, shop, model engineering, engineer, engineering, live steam, machine shop, metal lathe, vertical mill, metalworking, metal shop, jewlery making, diy, home improvement, resin casting, how to, do it yourself, do it yourself (hobby), ASMR, mini mill, mini lathe, tutorial, machinist hammer, milling machine, diy hammer, shop hammer

Id: tu1fgwjbJ-o

Length: 22min 42sec (1362 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 18 2020