Professional Laptop Battery Analyzer - LFC#227

[Music] hello interwebs welcome to let's fix computers today i'm going to be reviewing the nip embedded systems professional laptop battery analyzer so um i'll go through various features of this thing including what it is what it does what it can be used for and why it's a very powerful bit of equipment in the right hands so firstly quick summary of what this is if we take an example of any typical laptop battery here's a hp laptop battery here as you can see it's got this weird connector on it which is kind of proprietary and kind of not um and what this guy can do is it connects up to this connector and it talks to the controller inside this battery and it can then display it through the software all the back all the parameters of the battery including uh how many cycles is done its maximum and minimum capacities the serial number when it was made the overall health of the battery the health of the cells inside the battery and lots and lots of information like this which is incredibly valuable when you need to find out whether a battery is actually any good or not it can be used to tell you if the battery should be replaced if the battery is repairable or if the battery can be recovered by doing a calibration and so on and so forth you could also use it effectively to review batteries by performing charge and discharge checks to see if it actually meets its claim specification so the way it does this is by connecting through this phoenix connector on the front um i've got a couple of examples here this wiring harness comes with the device um and we've got the four pin phoenix connector going to these breakout spades and these spades are designed specifically to plug plug into these connectors so as you can see you can just slip stick that into the slot there and you can just wire up to whatever the pin out of the battery you're using is and the software that comes with this device specifically has pin outs for all common laptop batteries and we'll go over that in a moment and it can show you how to connect this thing up so you don't need to know the pin out of the battery in advance and that's extremely handy because these pin outs are not standardized there are patterns to them you know for example you'll typically have a couple of positives a couple of negatives and then you're clocking data somewhere in the middle and things like that however the exact pin out varies dramatically so here's another example one here using the extra phoenix connectors and pin pitch adapters that come with the device i've made up this harness for a macbook air battery so once again we've got a couple of positives we've got our clock pin our data pin and our ground pin now if you're wondering what this guy is doing here this is the battery enable wire and in a macbook air the battery enable y is tight to ground with a 10k resistor which is why i've added one of those in however i'm told by nip that this isn't actually necessary i was evaluating this device on a slightly older version of the software however the latest versions of software version three that came out literally today as i started recording this uh now includes that pin out functionality so now using those pin outs i don't need to look this up anymore and i can just go with whatever pin outs that the battery analyzer software tells me to use and that'll work just fine so now with this with this wiring harness i can just disconnect this and hook it up to any other macbook air battery so i can have a couple of common harnesses for batteries that i regularly see like macbook batteries and then we've got this guy which is kind of a universal harness for basically everything else so as well as the phoenix connector on the front we've got power led and then we've got an output led so power led is powered to the battery analyzer and then the output led this guy lights up when the battery is outputting voltage into the device so this is useful because as i mentioned a lot of batteries have an enable pin and if that enable pin is not set correctly the battery will not output any voltage which means you can't charge or discharge it however even if it's not outputting you can still talk to the controller over the data lines so if your battery is not outputting and you don't know why you can actually communicate with the battery to determine why it is not outputting so this is really helpful if you've got a battery that you're trying to recover because it might actually give you a clue as to what has happened to it so on the back of the device we've got a usb 2 interface we've got a uh a 19 to 20 volt 3 amp input the device came with a 65 watt power adapter that was made by delta electronics so it came with a high quality power supply as well and then finally you can see through the back vent now we've got a cooling fan for the big heatsink inside for the power transistor that handles charging and discharging the actual internals of the device are not hugely exciting as i mentioned it's got a a battery charger and discharger um circuit in there um however the rest of it is mainly just uh serial interface control circuitry and protection circuitry if you're concerned about having just this phoenix connector and having to make up your own wiring harnesses and stuff like that don't worry this thing all has protection circuitry in it so if something is wired up incorrectly it can actually successfully arrest any faults so not a big deal at all and because the software includes that pin out feature that shows you how to connect it all up it takes all the guesswork out of it for you so let's hook this up to a computer and i'll show it to you in action okay so i've got the software loaded up here and once we connect to the device it will enable the interface and this might look a little bit intimidating at first blush because there's a lot of parameters here that we can read off from our battery however this will make more sense as we go the first thing we need to do is actually get our battery connected up so to do this i'm going to look up the battery pin out for this thing so what i've got here is i've got a levolter battery this is a replacement on a hp it says it replaces muo 6 muo 9 and so on and so forth so let's go to the battery pin out section here and let's go hp and i'm going to search mu06 fine pin out so that's told us it's an eight pin connector and it's given us this code here which is the pin out so that is plus one d3 c4 minus a and we can use the legend over here to figure out what that means so in this case plus one means pin one is our positive pin or vbat then d3 means pin pin three is data c4 means pin four is clock and then minus eight means that pin eight is our minus or ground pin then in addition to that on certain batteries as i mentioned earlier on you may also have a t pin which indicates system present and we just tied that to a ground connector so let's hook up our battery so as per the pin out diagram i'm going to start from um i'm going to start from ground and work backwards so let's grab a ground wire and we're going to go pin 8 ground then i'm going to go pin 4 for clock so 8 7 6 5 4 then pin 3 for data and then pin one for positive as you can see we've got an output led to indicate that the battery is outputting now so what we'll do now is let's go back to the software and i'll hit start reading to just start pulling data from the battery there we go and as you can see it's now polled all of this information so let's just stop reading because we've got the information there and as you can see we've got remaining power we've got current charge rates time to full time to empty temperature voltage current average current remaining capacity and all of this stuff the cycle countdown here it seems this battery is only done 151 cycles so it should be in reasonably good health so we've now confirmed that we are reading from the battery so let's hit read capacity down here and as you can see this battery is reading at 97 full so apparently it's fully charged now that's correct because i've actually had this battery connected to a laptop on charge for a laptop that is just in my spares box so this this looks good so let's try just doing compute health and it's going to do just a very rough check to guess what condition this battery is in so apparently this battery is in pretty good nick it's at 88 percent health so are very rough just off-the-cuff checks say that it's pretty good we've also got other static data here if we read static data we can also see the design capacity so how much is supposed to store what the voltage should be manufacturing date it was made in 2016 so despite the fact that it's only done 151 cycles it's actually quite an old battery so it probably sat on a shelf for a while and then we've also got manufacturing codes serial number and so on and so forth that's pretty good so what else can we do with this now well what i'll do let's just go across the tabs one by one so over here we've got the charge tab and this will do a controlled charge on the battery then we can do a controlled discharge and because the battery is full i'll show you the discharging action so let's just go we're going to do a 2 amp discharge current and we'll start discharging off it goes so as you can see we've now got the graph is automatically plotting and it's showing the total battery voltage and the cell voltage as well and so we've also got battery current as well so we can follow these graphs across and that gives us data showing us the discharge characteristics of the battery so this might be interesting because we can see if the uh the cells are discharging evenly or unevenly and so on and so forth you can see at the moment that initially this the cell voltages have drooped where we've suddenly applied a load on it however now it's ever all stabilized we just see should see just a long trail off there until the battery is empty and we can specify in these boxes how low we want that to go so if we want to we can just say just take it down to say half that the discharge by dropping it down to say 3.4 3.5 volts per cell or something like that so that's our discharge then over in auto cycle calibrate what we can do here is we can calibrate the battery by setting up a discharge and charge cycle and we can tell it to do that several times if we want to so we can auto cycle it and just hammer the battery by chuck discharge and charging it several times over just to make sure that it's operating at normal rates and it will tell us what the capacity was before and what the capacity was after so we can see if we gained or lost capacity by actually cycling the battery a few times over on the repair tab this allows us to study the cell configuration of the battery and check what health the cells are in so i believe that we can just straight up if we run read battery configuration it will reorder this to the cell configuration of the battery we've got a three cell battery here so nothing will change there but if we had a two or four cell battery this v this would update when we hit read battery configuration to display two or four cells as respective so we can click check wrong cells and what it will do is it will do a resistance check on the cells to check what resistance they are showing and this will give us a rough idea on whether the cells are in good condition or not okay well that's interesting so what we're seeing here is apparently we've got three poor cells they're all reading reasonably high resistance so this may indicate this may be indicative of the fact that it's a third-party battery and also it did say it was a 2016 battery so despite the lows the low charge cycle count the battery is getting old where it's well a four-year-old battery so that shows that this battery might not be as good as we think it is we can also do wake up the battery where it will do a little bit of a charge and discharge cycle on the battery to get it going however because the battery is currently at 100 this one won't allow me to do that so we'd have to discharge the battery a little way before we do this so over on the device control tab this is mainly situated with the battery analyzer device itself and this allows us to calibrate the device and also run tests on the device and also one particularly useful feature it has is just an output voltage and what this will do is that if you have a stone dead battery that won't talk to anyone because it's completely dead you can actually forcibly start trickle charging the battery at just a little bit of voltage just to nudge the voltage of the battery up to the point where it suddenly becomes responsive and i'll actually run a test on that in a minute with some of the dead batteries that i've got to hand here um a couple of these batteries i could get nothing out of them whatsoever so i'm going to try feeding a bit of voltage into them just to see if we can recover the batteries and get them talking then over here on the test tab what we can do here is do a systematic test of the battery just an overall health check which will produce an actual pdf report of the battery test so this is particularly useful if you're running a repair shop or any kind of lab where you actually need to provide quantifiable results for someone else to look at such as a client or another another division of the company or something like that so as you can see here i've just filled out some dummy information on my tesla laboratory and we can specify what tests we want to do so communication charging discharge temperature health and cycle count and we can also specify what our grounds for this test is so we can say in order to pass we expect the health be at least 70 percent and the cycle count to be less than 600 and we can also specify how long we want the discharge and charge test to be so you could say no i want to do a deep test of the battery i want to take that battery down to 30 percent and then charge it in order to properly test it so you can specify exactly what you want here we can also say what the date and the test id will be and where it's going to save the report to so let's go ahead and run that test on this levalta battery so i'm going to hit run test so it's ramping up and now these test logs will start spitting out information as it goes through the test sections there we go and as you can see the test has passed as per our requirements so let's go ahead and save a pdf report of that and i'll just show you what that pdf report looks like if i open that up as you can see it's giving us a nice formatted pdf with what tests were conducted what conditions they were conducted under and what the results were and then you can print that off give it a signature and hand that off to your superior or your client so really nicely presented here this is one of my favorite features of this device by a long shot because um when people actually want reports on stuff it's very difficult to actually do that you often end up either having to screen cap something or just write down the results yourself so having something that will actually spit out a nice formatted report for you very very handy indeed so that's the test functionality then over on the reset tab here this gives us the ability to write information back to the battery controller now this requires certain this requires certain battery controllers to be present to do so and at the moment this is a fairly new feature as you can see our chip selection is quite limited at the moment however this is a feature that i expected to be expanded in the future on this device and it will be particularly helpful because if you've actually conducted repairs to a battery such as replaced cells or if you could fixed a fault that was with the battery and thus the battery is now logged an issue that is no longer present you can then send data back to the battery and say this fault has now been cleared you can now operate normally so this is a feature that i think will come more into its own in the future but at the moment only works on a limited set of battery controllers so now let's run through all of this again with another battery that's probably in much poorer condition so i'm just going to clear all this data just going to clear all this just to clear we can't clear these bars but we'll run through those again in a minute and i will take my new battery for test so this is another macbook air battery that i've got to one hand this one's got i've written old but works on this one so we'll see how we'll see how much that holds up right so that's the thing i know this works but i've no idea what condition it's in you know could this actually still be useful if i was to stick it in a secondhand laptop who knows so i'm going to plug in my macbook air wiring harness here and plug that into the front cool we have output good start and let's check if we can read the battery nice looks good we have information so straight away you can see this battery has done 972 cycles so this guy's seen a lot more action let's check the capacity so this is sitting down at 19 it's not completely flat but it's pretty well down and what does it say the health is the health apparently is pretty good it's at 78 so you know this one this guy has seen a lot of this guy's seen a lot of cycles however apparently it's actually an overall reasonable health so let's see how well this holds up uh so what i'll do i'm going to go over to the repair tab first and we're just going to get some more information from here so let's read configuration as you can see that's dropped to two cells because this is a two cell battery and we'll check wrong cells oh dear the cells are a pretty high impedance so yeah it's their health seems reasonably good however don't know how much i trust those cells see this is the interesting thing that the reported health percentage is not always a great indicator on how good the battery is but ah let's see how we do first so uh what we'll do is i'm going to try doing a calibrate test on this and we'll see what it can do so i'm going to run all of this just at the default values so let's just hit start calibration so this is now charging the battery up and it's going to charge the battery up and then it's going to discharge it and measure how much power it gave on the discharge cycle and from there it can calculate the capacity after and we can just double check what the current state of the battery is in now doing a calibrate cycle this may give us a better or worse result we may get an improved result because we've cycled the battery and reinvigorated the chemical the chemistry of the battery however we might also find that the health goes down because what we've actually done is charge and discharge it and discovered that these cells are actually much worse condition than the controller last new because the controller only has one information it last measured so this is going to take quite a long time to run because we've got to do a full charge and then discharge so i'm gonna come back after this is run which i'm expecting to take well possibly several hours we'll see i'll leave it to run and uh i'll see you guys after the cut right so eight hours later or seven hours and 50 minutes because this is a pretty high capacity battery that's one thing that the macbook airs are actually rather good at um we have finished our charge cycle so we actually dropped a little bit of health we went from um 5705 down to 56.77 however you can see that after doing that charge cycle we've updated the battery's internal controller with the current and true capacity of the battery so this gives us clearer picture on what state the battery is in now on some batteries if you had if we had a completely goosed battery we'd probably see that health actually tank even further and that would tell us that a battery that was saying that it was air is actually no that's not okay and certainly with some of the other batteries that i tried um off camera before i was before i started recording the review a couple of these other ones i did when i initially checked the health of the battery just from battery info it was saying fair you know 30 or 40 but as soon as you actually did a calibration on it that health would then tank down to absolutely poor where we would reveal that after running the test the battery is actually completely toast so as i say the calibration may help may give you a better or worse result afterwards but the more the most important thing is that it's giving you an up-to-date result not just simply the last known result that the controller had we'll go through one more example now now i'm not sure how well this is going to go but this is a test that i really am very interested in indeed i've got here this is a hp battery um this is a 807 956 to be exact and if we go over to the software you can see that i've got that dialed into the battery pin out finder here and that's giving us uh plus one d3 c4 minus eight i'll go through that slower in a sec um so let's hook up the battery as per those um specifications so let's plug this in now i'm gonna start from i'm gonna i'll always start from ground just because it seems safer to me to get everything plugged in and then plug in the positive pin last that just seems like a sensible idea to me so i'm gonna start backwards from eight now hp batteries are very handily labeled they've got a plus and a minus on them which immediately gives away which end is pin one so uh the pin eight is down the end here at the negative so that is pin eight then clock four so that's the green and we're gonna go eight seven six five four uh data three and power one right so we've got that wired in and as you can see we've got no output light so there's no output light the battery is not putting out any power but okay fine let's try and read it so start reading and we're getting absolutely nothing out of the battery here so what does this mean have i wired it up incorrectly or what i don't know so now what i'm going to do this is the replacement battery so the laptop that this batteries come from is actually in the shop for repair at the moment this was the battery that came out of it and this is a third-party replacement battery that i purchased by ninja bat that is currently my uh my brand of choice um so far i've been buying these ninja bat ones on uh amazon and they seem to be pretty good quick the customer is literally connecting collecting the the laptop now so i'm going to quickly plug this in and demonstrate right and with the brand new ninja bat plugged in as you can see we've got output and if i go to back to the software start reading bam and now we've got data output so you can see from here that this battery is so stone dead that we can't actually get anything out of it but the pin out we're using is correct so let's see if we can recover this battery and make it work at least just enough to get a read on it so let's hook up the bad battery again and what i'm going to do now is i'm going to use the voltage output feature and i'm going to feed voltage into the battery to try and back charge the battery and just raise the voltage up to the point where the controller circuitry comes back to life and we can start talking to the battery again see it's entirely possible that the battery is completely wrecked and doesn't hold the charge however what may have happened is that it may have just been left turned off for too long and the cell voltage has dropped just dropped down below the point where the controller cannot switch on so the cells in here might still work we just need to gently bring the battery back up to the point where the controller turns on and actually allows the battery to charge whereas right now if you try plugging this into a laptop it's just going to say it can't detect it so here we go right so i'm going to apply an output power and output voltage we're going to apply 6 volts to output now i don't know how high we need to put it the battery is going to be a 4 cell battery i would imagine and it is it's a 11 volt battery so obviously six is half of what it needs to be but i think the idea here is in theory just to apply just enough just to wake the thing up so let's just power it on so now we've got our output light on because there is power at the cell now let's try reading again no so we're not getting anything at the moment so what i'm going to do now is i'm going to read the manual right one manual check later the manual is really good by the way and explains anything that you're not sure about here so according to the manual i am doing this correctly but i probably need to give it a bit more the manual specifies that i should try feeding in a voltage that is one or two volts lower than the design voltage of the battery now i know from where i plugged in the ninja battery replacement and red data off of that that this is actually a 14.6 volt battery because it's a four cell battery and just for reference on how that's calculated that's 3.7 times four ish um more about that if you know about battery composition um however the output voltage for this battery is just shy of 11 volts so it's doing a little bit of step down in the controller so just to be on the safe side i'm going to take the output voltage and go down by 2 volts so it says it's 11 volts i'm going to try stepping up my output voltage to 9 volts and see what we get from there so let's power off and i'm going to set 9 volts so 9 000 millivolts let's try powering on there so now we're outputting nine volts into the battery let's try and read it again no we're still not getting anything there oh hold up i've got my data and clocks the wrong way around i plugged this in in a hurry and got it wrong data 3 clock 4. i've plugged that in we've got no output let's try it again at uh nine volts so nine thousand millivolts power on and let's just try reading again yes there we go look at that we've got static data and start reading dynamic there we go so remaining capacity alarm 285 milliamps okay so if we read capacity it's empty yeah so the the battery is stone flat so now the question is is can we feed in enough power to get this thing to to reinvigorate this thing again so uh let's see what we can do now to fix this so battery status terminate charge alarm terminate discharge remaining capacity alarm initialized discharging fully discharged so yeah there's everything wrong with this battery there's everything wrong with it so what we need to do now is see if we can make it charge i wonder if we can do that so let's power it off and right what if i just try charging will it let me do that no it doesn't want to do that i'm going to go back to the original 6 000 milliamps power on and let's just check that we can get data again yep okay right so uh can we get a charge state yeah so our our at rate is zero at the moment and it just fell over oh and it's back again i think it needs more than that so let's power off i'm gonna give it give it the beans again let's give it 9 volts power on quick correction from the editing desk for this section because i'd actually made quite a grave error while running this experiment thankfully nothing dangerous however because the ninja bat was a four cell battery i completely assumed that the original battery would be as well but in actual fact the original one was a three cell battery and the ninja bat was a full cell doing internal step down and that is actually revealed by the static battery data which showed that the ninja bat had a design voltage of 14 point something however the original battery that we've got connected at the moment was 10.9 so there is you can see that we've actually got a cell voltage of difference there this is also revealed in the software itself where it shows us the cell voltages down at the bottom of the dynamic battery data this was right in front of me but i hadn't spotted it while i was recording so we can use that information there to determine straight away what has occurred here in that uh cell 1 is fine cell 3 is fine but cell 2 is super low so that's our bad cell in the battery that's the one that's bringing the entire battery voltage down to the point where the controller will not charge it uh this is more or less unrecoverable at this point and we might be able to bring it back if we leave apply output voltage turned on for a long period of time and we might be able to just nudge that cell back up to three volts and then the battery will probably go ahead and say yeah i'll charge that however on this particular one that wasn't happening so instead i'm going to move on to another battery that i did have a bit more luck with so let's catch up where i've just plugged that one in and just managed to activate that with the apply output voltage ah while digging through my spare batteries looking for another feature to test i've actually found one where we can where we might actually be able to recover it so i've got a battery here this again it's another hp battery almost identical to the last one we looked at um and this one same deal as you can see our output light is off so we've got no output from the battery now initially again when i tried to get a when i tried to read the data i think he's going to work for me now because i just powered this up yeah of course it is but uh initially i tried to read it and again it was stone dead no reaction tool however i applied the i applied the six volts to it then i managed to do a read static data which got me information from the battery and it told me the design voltage was 14.8 so what i then did i powered off and now if i allow higher voltage and we bash in 14 volts so 14 000 millivolts power on now if i start reading dynamic data here's where the interesting bit comes in look at the current we're on 60 milliamps and if we give that a moment we should actually find that because that's actually reading a positive current it means it's actually taking on charge oh it was on like 600 just then let's see if it comes back to us what's the status okay we're currently discharging and we're fully discharged okay well that's fine however we've lit up the battery again can i use the charge feature if i start charging will it charge for me charging the battery so our battery current is currently uh there we go it's climbing oh i'm really frustrated that i wasn't recording however this literally worked exactly as intended and there we go with the current is starting to climb now i'm really frustrated i wasn't recording just then the battery was not reading i applied voltage to it the controller came online and now i'm able to charge this battery so the question is will it actually charge though i mean you'll notice that our current has just dropped down again and we're oh yeah we're losing current uh i don't know you know what i'm going to leave that to run and i'm going to see if we can put anything into it however from this example you can see how on this particular battery we've managed to get a step closer to actually recovering the battery whether or not we can recover it to something that's usable or not is another question um however yeah you see why you see what this device is doing now because this this brings about an interesting point which i didn't mention earlier on which is obviously when you're using like windows or mac os both windows and macos do have features that will give you battery reports from software where the the laptop as long as long as the laptop supports it the operating system can pull the battery and pull this information from it however what that doesn't allow you to do is actually do anything with that information it can tell you the stats of the battery but you can't change anything or or give instructions to the laptop to do anything you can't tell it to forcibly charge the battery or anything like that whereas with the battery analyzer we can and that might be the difference you know this battery might be in reasonable health it's just been overly discharged where the battery was flat and then it was put in a cupboard for six months however if we actually managed to get a charge into this battery you know it's holding at about 200 milliamps at the moment if we can actually get power into this battery then we may end up with something that's actually usable ah i paused for a minix i was going to walk away but look just as i paused our current is climbing drastically where the battery is starting to wake up it's actually really starting to ramp up now our voltage is starting to soar so it looks like what's happened is we've trickle charged the battery just to get the minimum voltage up and now we're actually ramping up to a proper charge cycle and the current is ramping up so i've currently got this set to a maximum charging current of two amps so that's not going to go over two amps um however that looks like it's going to ramp all the way up to that two amp limit and actually start banging some charge into this thing now this is really cool this is a really good example this battery was stone dead could not did not respond at all and now we've actually got something that is actually responsive and maybe even working so let's leave it to run and i'm going to go back to the information now and firstly we're going to run another read on it and so now what we can see from here uh we can see that we're our current is now at minus 16 milliamps so the status is now discharging however obviously it's discharging at such a small rate that it's negligible the important thing is is that with the output voltage turned off we still have an output light on the front of the unit so now we can see that the battery is now self powered which is what we were trying to achieve we've got enough power into this battery that it has now actually woken up and can power itself so this is good um so now we can start paying attention to the other stuff so firstly we can see that the cycle count on this is actually very low it's only 109 so theoretically this is possibly a contender for a battery that's worth trying to recover so let's try and get some other information so read capacity we should get 23 yes we're at 24 near enough what do we reckon the health is so the health is apparently at about 50 is at 55 which is you know that's a bit knackered but i don't know that might well be usable so uh let's go over to the calibrate and let's clear the log okay so we're back after calibration and we have lost capacity through the calibration but again this is not so much that we are damaging the battery or anything like that what we're doing is revealing its true state um because the problem is is that when this battery is plugged into a laptop and the battery and the laptop is discharging the battery it's going to take the capacity before in this case 1534 is going to use that as the capacity of the battery and it's going to take a full charge will be 100 of that now if that's not the true capacity in the battery in this case the true capacity at the moment is 1126 milliamp hours when this battery reaches like i don't know what 20 percent someone do the maths on that when it gets down to like 20 there's going to be nothing left the battery thinks there's power left but there isn't so the laptop would drop down to say 20 and then just cut out and this is what happens with phones and laptops where people go oh it got down to it got down to like 40 and then died because the battery thinks it has more capacity than it really does whereas now we've calibrated it yes we have lost capacity but what's actually happened is we've updated the battery's controller with the true capacity that's left in the battery and so now when this runs yeah it's not going to run for very long however the percentage reading of the battery will actually give us a true indication of how much the battery has and then in addition to that in the case of this battery we went from a battery that was actually completely dead and non-functional and now we have a battery that is not very good but not very good is an improvement over completely non-functional so of course a decent person might at this point turn around and go why don't you just replace the battery and that's true in my case um i wouldn't go through the trouble of doing all of this on every battery that comes into the shop unless i have a reason to um you know a replacement battery for this one is about 30 pounds on amazon so that's i don't know what um 35 to 35 37 or something like that so it's a case of you just replace the battery um however if you've got an old one and you really want to make that battery work then absolutely the va the usefulness of the battery analyzer i think is better for batteries that are actually in good condition but for some reason are not functional um or as i've said earlier on in this video where you have either a brand new battery or you have a modern laptop that is liquid damaged and the battery is not talking and you need to find out why um this battery is too old to be useful however if we had a modern battery that had just been deep d site that had just been deep deep discharged because of some kind of fault we could potentially recover it back into a very healthy state and that's something that the laptop cannot actually do itself we might be able to get a read of all these statistics through windows or through macos but we can't do anything with that information so with all that said i want to give a big thank you to nip embedded systems for sending me this example of their professional laptop battery analyzer this is a very unique piece of equipment um which has as far as i can tell no real competitors in the market space at all and for someone who is dealing with lots of laptop repairs including battery uh analysis for um liquid damaged laptops liquid damaged batteries and so on or just worn batteries this is very very unique and could be incredibly powerful it's currently available on the website which i will link in down below they have stock as of the recording of this video and they ship worldwide so thanks a lot for watching i hope you found this one interesting uh all of my support links are also in the description down below and they'll be on the end card that you'll see in a minute including my discord server and my patreon thank you very much everyone and i'll see in the next video bye you

Channel: Adamant IT

Views: 51,379

Rating: 4.9309154 out of 5

Keywords: adamant it, adamantit, computer, repair, shop, custom, gaming, modding

Id: eqcqsEaoeco

Length: 42min 44sec (2564 seconds)

Published: Wed Oct 14 2020