Print 2D Art With A 3D Printer Tutorial!

welcome to figure feedback my name is Jeremy and lately I've been really into 3D printing 2D art now this is a process in which you can layer multiple different colors of filament on top of each other in order to Come Away with a picture that's suitable for hanging on your wall suitable for framing suitable for putting on your desk and giving out as gifts and this is just another way that you can use 3D printing in a more practical sense decorate your room decorate your office and in this video I'm going to show you exactly how you can do that and it's really easy so for this I'm going to be using the flash Forge Adventure 5m 3D printer but you don't need that 3D printer in order to do this you can use whatever 3D printer you happen to have on hand now the process of creating this 2D art is usually done with a piece of software called Hue Forge so what is Hue Forge let me show you H Forge is software which allows you to create detailed multicolor 3D prints using only swap by layer through a process we call filament painting it isn't a slicer or painting program Hue Forge creates a model file for you and then using the sliders you see at the bottom of the image in the magic of transmission distance predicts what your final print will look like after printing after you're happy with how it look it'll it'll export a text file giving you the layer Heights at which you should set up your color swaps so that in the nutshell is what hu Forge is and a lot of people have been taking advantage of this to make some really amazing artwork so here is what I am going to be printing today I'm going to be printing this Spider-Man homecoming artwork now this is on maker world and this is a site that people who have bamboo lab printers can go to in order to get some prints and it's easier for them to do it because they have access to the AMS and that allows them to load multiple different colors of filament into the AMS and then the process is automated they don't need to manually swap anything but if if you don't have access to AMS like I do then we are going to have to manually swap our filament so here is the picture that I'm going to be printing here and as you can see here are the instructions you're going to be printing it at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.16 mm with a base layer of 0 1.6 mm instructions can be different depending on what you're trying to print usually I see a layer height of 0.08 with a first layer height of 0.16 but it just kind of depends on who made it and here are the different filaments that um are going to be used or at least what's recommended so this is going to require four different filament swaps so I'm going to start with black and then at layer four I'm going to swap to Red at layer nine I'm going to swap to Gray and then at layer 14 going to swap to White and then that will take care of the entire print so we're going to go up here and then you can click on Raw model files and then you can download this file right right here some of them will just give you the STL others the STL is not available and you'll have to get it through downloading the bamboo uh studio and getting it from there I don't want to go through that extra step so I tend to only look through look for things that I can just directly get the STL file directly from the page just like this so now it's time to slice this file and I am using Orca slicer for this so first I'm going to bring the file into Orca slicer and this is 200 by 200 so it's going to take up almost the entire build plate of this printer and you can probably see that down on the right side it says that the uh it is highly recommended to simplify the model every time I see that I go ahead and do it I don't know what the conse what the consequences are by not doing it so I always make sure that I do just so I don't run into anything crazy so when that's done I just hit apply next I need to make sure that I follow the instructions that's laid out on the page where I got the print and it says I need to print this at a 100% infill with a layer height of 0.16 and a base layer of 0.16 as well so over here I'm going to go to Quality which is down here I always also make sure that I have this Advanced tab selected just so I can have options and have access to all the different options so I'm just going to go to Quality here and the layer height has to be 0.16 and then the base layer also has to be 0.16 so I'm going to make sure that I change those I also need to change the infield to 100 so I'm going to go over here to strength and then here under infield sparse infield density I already set it to 100% usually by default it's at 15 so yours is probably going to be that way too so I'm just going to change this to 100% And then up here it says wall Loops um usually they say two wall Loops but I'm just going to say three you don't have to change that if you don't want to and those are the only settings that we need to worry about so we just got to make sure that the layer height is changed and that the infill is changed and any other instructions that they give on this page now it is time to slice it so let me go ahead and slice this model so we can see here that this print is going to take 4 hours and 7 minutes to complete and that's just using the default speeds that this printer is capable of but before we export the GCO file we need to set pauses in the layers so that the printer will automatically stop itself at the right time so we can manually swap the filament this way we don't have to monitor the print all the time and then manually pause it we can just set pauses in the G-Code so first we need to set the first pause at layer four so I'm going to grab this slider over on the right and you see that the top layer is 19 so we're going to drag this all the way down to four right there then we're going to write right click on the plus icon and go down to add pause and doing this is going to insert a pause command at the beginning of the layer so bam we're going to pause that there the next thing that we need to do is go up to layer nine and do another pause so from four all the way up to nine right click add pause and then finally at layer 14 that's going to be our last pause so from 9 to 14 right click add pause and that's all that we need to do so we're going to start with black and then we're going to go to Red gray and then finish it up with white so now that we have our three pauses in place we have to slice this one more time so let's say you're not using Orca slicer and instead you're using Cura here's how you can set the pauses in Cura so first you need to go up to the very top it's hidden on my screen but there's an option that says extensions so click on that and then go down to the bottom where it says postprocessing and then click on modify gcode you're then going to click on the only option and it says add a script and then go down to filament change click on that and then on the right you'll see at the very top you can enter what layer you want the filament change to start on so if the first layer change if the first filament change was going to be on layer four then you would simply click four and then you can close it you can add multiple scripts if you want so you can do it all here so you can just click on add a script again and then you can go to filament change again and then you can set wherever the layer is going to be here's how to pause the layers if you're using Flash Print so first you're going to hit the start slicing button and then go down to others here at the bottom and then you're going to see pause at layers so you just hit the plus icon there you choose what layer you want to pause and hit okay you want to add another layer just hit the plus button choose the next layer press okay and then once you done all your layers you hit slice right here on the right side and you'll be good to go and so that's it now I can export this file put it on a thumb drive or if you're going to do Wi-Fi printing you just send it right over there to the printer and from here I'm going to put some black filament in my printer and then I'm going to take you along through each filament swap so you can see the progress of this picture as it gets completed so let's get started we got the first layer of black going down right now so now it's on layer 4 and it automatically paused itself here is what the print looks like now and I just loaded up some red filament so I'm going to get that started and we'll see how this picture starts to change so it's only been a few minutes but you can already see it's starting to take shape the red is going to stay on there until till about layer 9 I believe and then we'll put on another color and this will continue to build itself out so it's looking pretty good so far and just a quick tip if you're doing this on the flash Forge Adventure 5m when you change the filament just make sure that you just sort of pull it away from the print so that it doesn't get stuck while it's extruding like this so just make sure that you just get it out of the way because you don't want this grabbing onto the print and just kind of getting stuck there so that's the second color change all done here's what it looks like right now got the gray all loaded up so let's start it back so now I got the gray all laid down only one color left and that's white it's already loaded up so let's go all right so now here is the final product doesn't that just look awesome it's just amazing that you'll be able to print this on your 3D printer it's just a really really amazing piece of art flip it over on the back so you can kind of see that first layer it even imprinted The Flash Forge uh logo at the bottom because that layer was uh on that little part where the logo is on the bed thought that was pretty funny but yeah this looks really nice and I'm very happy with it a little bit of stringing in here but if you do encounter stringing is really no big deal especially if it's those really really thin sort of wispy strings you can just grab like a small torch lighter or something and just go over it real fast and it'll just get rid of those but you know all in all I am very happy with how this turned out and as you can see it was really really easy to do um just make sure that you set those pause points inside of your slicer so that you don't have to Baby the printer and you can just get to it whenever you can get to it and swap out your filament if you don't know how to swap out the filament on the flash Forge Adventure 5m specifically I did a short video about that so I am going to leave my playlist for the flash Forge Adventure 5m in the description so that you can check out all the videos that have to do with this particular printer so now you got everything that you need to go out and start printing your own 2D art there's a lot of different free files out there that you can get and really the only thing that you need is just the right colors for the print and then you are Off to the Races so if you have done this or if you are interested in doing things like this let me know down in the comments or what you are currently printing right now maybe it's a big project we love to hear about it so that's it you guys thank you all so much for watching till next time take care of yourselves and I'll speak to you soon

Channel: Figure Feedback

Views: 698

Keywords: 3D printing, hueforge, hueForge, HueForge, FDM, filament, multicolor printing, art, 2d art, 3D art, tutorial, flashforge adventurer 5m

Id: fzQHF6wYZZM

Length: 11min 57sec (717 seconds)

Published: Wed Mar 20 2024