Portugal –
From jagged coastlines to roaring waterfalls and ice-covered peaks Portugal is full of natural wonders. Follow us on our journey as we explore the sun-kissed southwestern corner of Europe. Our road trip through Portugal started along the beautiful Douro River in the northeast of the country. Forming a natural border to Spain for more than 100 kilometers, the Douro has cut a deep canyon into the landscape. Several remote viewpoints provide travelers with impressive vistas of the countryside. Whereas the Douro is entirely tamed in its later course, here in the northeast of the country, it still exudes a feeling of wilderness. We spent all day exploring the little trails of the area, which, to our delight, became more and more challenging. Some of the trails were steep, while others were narrow or rocky - and some were everything combined. With the day drawing to an end, we made our way to one more viewpoint, where we were rewarded with a wonderful sunset scenery. The entire landscape was bathed in beautiful golden light, while the river flowed past gently. Early the next morning, we visited the first of many Portuguese castles: Castelo de Algoso. This medieval castle was one of the most important fortifications in the northeast of Portugal and looks back on at least eight hundred years of history. Nowadays, this region is extremely peaceful
and as such, perfect for travelers seeking solitude. However, in past centuries, frequent warfare with the neighboring
Spanish let to the construction of countless castles and watchtowers, many of which have survived to this day. The surrounding landscape is nicknamed „Terra Quente“, translating to Hot Land, as it is governed by an arid climate which is ideal for cultivating olive trees. Whichever direction we looked, olive plantations dominated the scenery. To make the most of the limited water in the region, several rivers such as the Rio Sabor have been dammed, creating large artificial lakes. While marveling at the view, we spotted a small gravel road leading towards the lake shore. Of course, we didn’t think twice and immediately headed down the path. Conveniently, it was time for lunch, so we packed out our camping chairs
and enjoyed the quiet. Needless to say, we also went for a refreshing skinny dip in the lake. After driving back up again, we soon found
ourselves on little country roads leading north. Even though Portugal is known as a warm weather destination,
it can get properly cold at night, especially in the north of the country,
as is evident by all the frozen ground. But luckily now the sun has started to warm up the
landscape and it will be very pleasant, very soon. After some early morning off-roading, we arrived in the village of Gimonde. The small settlement is known for its ancient Roman bridge
which nowadays serves as a regular road. Lucky for larger vehicles, there is another bridge just 150 m upstream which leads straight towards Montesinho Natural Park. The winding roads through the eastern part of the park are mostly tarred, but regularly give way to narrow cobblestone streets when passing a village. One such settlement is Montesinho, which is considered the most picturesque village of the park by many. While driving through the narrow streets is possible,
a leisurely stroll proved to be the more pleasant option. Exploring the village on foot, it did not take us long to discover that the local human to cat ratio is about 1:5. Continuing towards the western part of the park, we steadily drove uphill. Meanwhile, the landscape started to change as the
trees were slowly replaced by shrubs. Intrigued by the rugged hillsides, I decided to go on a hike. Following a gravel road, the trail led past pastures before climbing up towards a heath landscape. It didn’t take long until both the trail and the conditions became rougher, however, the granite rock formations proved to be worth the effort. Upon returning to the car, I was not surprised
to find Anna had already made a new friend. Shortly after, we set up base at a lovely spot next to a river
which was in need of a little cleanup. Our efforts were soon rewarded
when we found a wild fig tree which provided us with a generous yield. The next morning the sun had disappeared and we were engulfed in fog as we made our way towards Peneda-Gerês National Park. Portugal's only national park is home to lush forests of oak and pine and is considered one of the last strongholds of the Atlantic European flora. Due to its four mountain ranges, the park is governed by numerous micro-climates resulting in rapidly changing weather. Rainfall is much more common here than elsewhere in the country with the low-hanging clouds creating a mysterious atmosphere. While the park is the habitat of a few remaining wolves,
chances of seeing them are very low. However, travelers are guaranteed to spot cows which regularly cause traffic jams. Most of the parks remaining inhabitants still live from agriculture and the region is renowned for both its cheese and beef products. After passing through some narrow alleys,
we set out on a short walking trail through the mossy forest. Not long after, we discovered our first waterfall in Portugal. As a result of the frequent rainfall, scenic waterfalls
are an abundant sight in the National Park. Even in moody weather, it is a delight to watch the water gush downhill. One of the most impressive waterfalls can be found at Ponte de Mizarela. Here, the relentless force of the water has created a
canyon that can be crossed on a medieval bridge. Despite the incessant drizzle, we took our time to enjoy the scenery. Unsurprisingly, the weather showed little signs of improving that day. Trying to make the best of it,
we continued along the winding roads of the national park. Lucky for us, the enchanting scenery was beautiful to look at, even in the rain. Leaving the tarred roads behind, we followed a gravel track through the lush forest. Interestingly, this particular trail is an ancient Roman Road that follows the course of a nearby river. Not as old, but arguably just as scenic, are the many mountainous roads of the park that beckon visitors to go on a road trip. Another 16hours of rain later, we found ourselves camping next to a little rivulet. Fortunately, the clouds had finally had enough and the sky started to open up again. We seized the opportunity and drove along some narrow roads before ending up on the bumpiest cobble stone road to date. Our destination was a remote mountain village,
which has long been abandoned by its former inhabitants. Tracing back its origin to Roman times, the village was mostly
used by farmers during the warm summer months. Celebrating the comeback of the sun,
we met some of the region’s indigenous half-wild horses. these horses have lived in the area for at least 20.000 years and are perfectly adapted to the rapidly changing weather. We are surrounded by about 50 tomb-like structures,
which as a matter of fact are granite granaries that in the past were used to store grain and corn for all the families of the village. And they are built on stilts for a very simple reason,
which is to keep out rats and mice during the winter and to keep the grain safe. While the stilts keep rodents away, the slits on all sides are an adaptation to the high humidity of the regional climate. As moisture is known to cause crops to rot,
the slits ensure that the grain is always well-ventilated. These granaries, which are called Espigueiros in Portuguese,
are a regular sight in the north of the country. In almost every village, travelers will spot several granaries built from wood or stone. Only a few of these granaries are still in use today, but they are preserved by the locals as they represent an important cultural heritage. While the weather remained unpredictable,
we marveled at the pilgrimage church of Peneda which is beautifully set in the surrounding mountain range. If you intend to legally fly a drone in Portugal,
you're in for a bit of paperwork in our backpack we carry around this stack of paper:
200 odd pages, which are all the drone authorizations we needed to obtain before coming
to Portugal. And these include gps coordinates, flight radius, the dates of the flights, and so on. But, worst of all, you do not only have to contact a single agency but depending on the location up to four separate agencies. And of course they all need to give you their approval for flying. Now it is up to you to deem if it is worth to go through this process of 20 odd hours or not. Located on an isolated hilltop, Castro Laboreiro looks back on more
than one millennium of history, having changed hands multiple times during that period. Today, only ruins remain,
but the surrounding mountains create a magical atmosphere. Leaving the national park behind,
we paid a quick visit to the northernmost point of Portugal, before meeting up with the Atlantic Ocean. After following the coastline south for a bit, we soon headed inland again. Taking small roads through the countryside, we made our way towards Ponte de Lima, where an old Roman bridge crosses the Lima River. Shortly after, while looking for a campground, we were caught in a low-hanging cloud with visibility dropping to a meager 15m. Instead of continuing in such dangerous conditions, we quickly looked for a spot to park and were lucky enough to end up above the clouds. The next morning, we could barely believe our eyes
seeing the beautiful landscape around us. With the sun finally breaking through, we headed down the mountain towards Braga. Regarded as the religious center of Portugal, the most well-known sight of the city is the pilgrimage church of Bom Jesus do Monte. Especially striking is the monumental Baroque stairway leading up to the church. Aside from its beautiful nature, Portugal
is also brimming with interesting history there are medieval churches and
castles, Roman aqueducts and bridges and iron age villages such as this one - at
Citânia de Briteiros - a celtic fortified town that was inhabited two and a half thousand years ago. Little walkways lead through the archeological site
that provides an interesting glimpse into how humans lived in the past. Just a stone throw away, the town of Guimarães is often described
as the birthplace of modern Portugal. Strolling through the narrow alleyways, we discovered a traditional bakery where we purchased a selection of pastries that we promptly enjoyed for breakfast. Heading east, we drove through an undulating landscape
that was dominated by wind turbines. Situated in the central north, Parque Natural do Alvão,
is one of the smallest nature parks of the country. However, it protects one of the largest waterfalls of Portugal: Fisgas de Ermelo. Dropping down 250m over several cascades,
the waterfall is a spectacular sight to behold. Hiking in the park, we noticed that many pine trees
carried plastic containers on their trunks. As it turns out, these bags are used to collect pine resin, a natural product that is processed for such things as paint, cosmetics, and car tires. That evening, we finally tried out our outdoor kitchen for the first time. Folding down the sand tracks on the side of the vehicle results in a fully functioning cooking area, perfect for preparing dinner. The next day, we headed south and soon met up with an old friend again: the Douro River. At this point in its journey, however, it is not the wild river we got to know earlier,
but rather a tamed version. The reason for that change are wine growers
who have cultivated grapes along the river for centuries. The Douro River valley is especially well known for the production of port wine, a typically sweet red wine which in its original form is an
exclusive Portuguese product. Other than growing grapes, the river shore is
also perfect for an extended lunch break. Continuing onwards, we followed the course of the river until we arrived in the port wine capital of the world: Porto. Porto lies on the northern shore of the Douro River. The city on the southern shore is called Vila Nova de Gaia. As that is impossible to pronounce for foreigners, both cities are usually referred to as Porto. Our exploration of the cities started on the southern shore from where we looked onto Porto including its most famous bridge: Ponte de Dom Luís I. The two-level metal arch bridge spans the River
over a length of 172 metres and was opened in 1886. Today, it is one of six large bridges that connect both cities. A good way to see all bridges is by embarking on a boat tour on the Douro. Gently swaying on the river opens up a new perspective onto the cities. It also allowed us to throw a glance at the historic riverside quarter of Porto as the wine merchants must have seen it in the past. Before the use of a railway, the wine was transported to the city in small boats. While the mode of transportation has changed,
the process of aging remains much the same. Filled into wooden barrels,
the wine is stored in cool wine cellars until it is deemed ready. Aside from fermented grape juice, Porto is also known for its Azulejos - colorful ceramic tiles that adorn many buildings of the city. One of the most lavishly decorated buildings is the São Bento railway station which depicts countless scenes of Portugal's history. The main attraction of both Porto and Gaia
are their respective riverside quays though. Bustling with activity, they are home to countless restaurants and shops, and the playground of street performers. Despite its undeniable charm, Porto remained somewhat of a mystery to us. It is a lively city abuzz with music, creative street art,
the sounds of seagulls, and the chatter of its people. Based on its breathtaking riverside location,
it could be one of the most beautiful cities of Europe. However, we also came upon countless derelict buildings
and were offered drugs repeatedly which left us with mixed feelings. But as everyone came together to watch the sunset over the river, we were grateful to have had the chance to visit the city. Leaving Porto behind, we shortly stopped at this beautifully ornamented church, before heading back into nature. One of Europe's last untouched coastal marshlands can be found at Ria de Aveiro. A haven for numerous bird species,
the tranquil lagoon provides ample opportunities for them to feed and rest. We were especially delighted to spot some flamingos in the shallow waters. Wading through the lagoon at low tide, they use their specially adapted bills to separate mud and silt from shrimps, algae or insects. Of course, human fishermen have taken inspiration from the birds and are equally on the hunt for eel, cockles, crabs, seaweed, and many different fish species. Fascinatingly, the water is so shallow,
that fishermen can often be seen standing next to their boats instead of sitting in them. To cross over to the other side of the lagoon, we needed to board a vehicle ferry. After a 15min boat ride, we disembarked and carried on towards the ocean where we came upon even more birds. Instead of following the coast further, we decided to head inland once more. Traveling on some narrow mountain roads, we steadily climbed uphill
towards one of Portugal’s most beautiful villages. We are currently strolling through
the little alleyways of Cerdeira a mountain village built entirely out of schist. This is an incredibly peaceful spot: there are no barking dogs, no traffic, no reception just the babbling of the brook and the chattering of the birds so truly a place to wind down. While the village itself is more than 300 years old,
it was completely abandoned in the 1970s. In the early 2000s a project to revive the traditional schist villages of the region was launched and Cerdeira was reborn. Today, the town is both historical and modern,
offering all the amenities one could need. As such, it is a perfect retreat for artists, nature lovers and travelers who enjoy silence. The nearby village of Talasnal looks back on a
similar history of decay and restoration. Still a construction site in parts, the settlement is equally charming and peaceful. Wandering around the scenic alleyways, we promised ourselves to return one day, when we are in need of doing absolutely nothing. For the moment, however, we carried on and drove back to the coast. Finding ourselves a beautiful spot along the sea, we sat down on our roof terrace and watched the sun sink slowly into the ocean. As soon as day turned into night, the stars provided us with a stunning vista. Early the next day, we were reminded of the importance of momentum when it comes to driving in soft sand. Staying on sandy forest trails, we continued towards Portugals most well-known surfer destination: Nazaré. The formerly quaint fishing village
has turned into a Mecca for big wave surfers in recent years. During the winter months from October to March,
the conditions align perfectly to create utter monster waves. Mainly responsible for this ferocious unleashing of nature i s a deep submarine canyon which abruptly ends at Nazare’s north beach. Combined with massive Atlantic Ocean swells, the collision of two wave directions, the wind, the tides, and the sea currents, athletes find the worlds biggest surfable waves at Nazare. To deal with these extreme conditions, a technique called Tow-in-surfing is used. Holding firmly onto a rope while being pulled by a jetski allows the surfers to catch even the fastest waves. Once they let go, they are on their own, racing down waves that under perfect conditions reach heights of more the an 20m. Crashing under such conditions is life threatening
which explains the omnipresence of the jetskis. Meanwhile, on the cliffs above, hundreds of onlookers watch in fascination as the surfers battle the elements. Switching up our mode of transportation, we hopped on a boat and headed towards the island of Berlenga. Situated around 10km offshore, the island is well known for its jagged coastline including submerged rocks, arches, caves and tunnels. Strikingly, Berlenga is made up of pink granite,
a rock that occurs very rarely elsewhere in Europe. The same type of rock was used to build the islands most famous landmark:
the Fort of the Berlengas. Connected to the island by a narrow walkway, the fort was used to fend off pirates and enemy fleets. Since its construction in the 17th century, it was destroyed and rebuilt several times. Nowadays, the island is much more peaceful as it is part of a nature reserve that protects
seabirds, fish and the local flora and fauna. Back on the mainland, we set out to explore the
picturesque cliffs of the Peniche peninsula. Erosion and the incessant pounding of the sea have created many interesting rock formations in the area. The waters off the coast are also teeming with fish,
much to the delight of the local fisherman. Some of the fishing spots are only accessible via steep ladders, a climbing adventure, I simply couldn’t resist. After almost 3 weeks on the road, we decided it was time for a little treat. That is why we checked into a stylish hotel called Areias do Seixo, where we spent our first night in a fairytale-like shelter. The perfect getaway for a honeymoon, this charm tent is spacious, cozy and private. Of course, we immediately lit a fire which only added to the magical atmosphere. Unanimously, we decided that the next day would be fully dedicated to relaxation. For that purpose, we tried out every single of the many resting places of the shelter. Around lunchtime, we changed into one of the
hotel's mind-blowingly epic Gold Rooms. Our classy bathroom even came with a private whirlpool. As before, our main activity was to relax, which we promptly did on our private porch. In the afternoon, we met up with Luca, the garden manager of the hotel, who is in charge of supplying the restaurant with fresh produce. He was kind enough to take us around his domain
and explain the different types of plants to us. Portuguese cabbage, the interesting thing that I noticed
compared to other areas where I've grown I've never seen cabbage grow with such a big stem Yeah, it's like a tree! I've always seen them like spreading from the ground and I think it has to do with how the climate here is very constant. We also discussed the importance of sustainability when it comes to growing food. We're not used anymore to see people growing We're just used to see tractors and then we see supermarkets and the food is ready but we don't
even know where it comes from and what it should taste like. Sustainability will be that more
and more people will pay attention to this side which is what we eat, what we put in our body and
it's I think that's very important Upon returning to our room, I lit a fire in the unusually shaped wood stove while Anna prepared our bubble bath. Fully relaxing one more time,
we gathered our strength for the next weeks on the road. Instead of following the coastline south,
we decided to head inland once more. Embarking on a route of castles and convents,
we made our way to the fortress of Almourol, which scenically overlooks the Tejo river. Not far away, the Convent of Christ in Tomar
was originally a 12th-century Templar stronghold. The knights’ influence is clearly discernible in the
massive defensive architecture of the church. Today, the entire castle complex is protected as part of the Unesco World Heritage. Meanwhile, in the small city below, the spirit of the Templars still lives on. Whereas all previous churches exuded a degree of calm, the Sanctuary of Fatima was more of a religious outdoor festival. By some accounts, Fatima is the most
important pilgrimage site for Catholics in Europe with more than 6 million visitors annually. The site is held in such high regards as, in 1917, three Shepard children supposedly witnessed an apparition of the Virgin Mary here. After some thorough research, the Catholic Church
deemed the sighting worthy of belief around 10 years later. To show their devotion, or as an act of penance,
some of the faithful even circle the Virgin statue on their knees. Others bring sizable devotional candles which are then thrown into a fire pit. Several tons of candles are burned that way every month. To add a little break on our castle and convent route,
we decided to pay a visit to Portugals largest known cave. Discovered in 1947, the web of underground tunnels is known to stretch at least 8km. While the rock formations were truly impressive, we were rather disappointed by the crowded character of the guided tour. Back in the land of the living, we looked at one of the smallest castles to date before arriving at Mosteiro de Batalha, an absolute unit of a convent. Work on the monastery started in 1386,
after the Kingdom of Portugal’s decisive victory in battle. Taking 131 years to complete,
the construction of the convent spanned the reign of five kings. The result is a richly ornamented building that has no peers in Portugal. Every detail of the monastery is a work of art. Equally part of the Unesco World Heritage, the Monastery of Alcobaça is even older. Dating back to 1153,
the convent was one of the most important medieval monasteries in Portugal. Founded by the first Portuguese king,
Alcobaça used to be the living quarters for up to 1000 monks who dedicated their lives to religious meditation
and creating illuminated manuscripts. We are walking through the dormitory and it is
stunningly beautiful and it has great acoustics but that must have been a downside if one of
your fellow monks was a heavy snorer as you would have heard it everywhere. The final stop on our history route was the Palace-Convent of Mafra. The construction of the palace, which has no fewer than 1200 rooms, was mostly funded by mining gold and diamonds
in the former Portuguese colony of Brazil. Our favorite room turned out to be the library
which contains more than 36.000 leather-bound books. Having completed our inland loop, we happily returned to the coast. Our destination was Cabo da Roca,
the westernmost point of the European mainland. Leaving aside its geographical importance,
it was the scenery of the area that truly impressed us. The surrounding cliffs drop more than 100m towards the sea
and the jagged rocks come in many interesting shapes. Due to its prominent form, the cape is also easily spotted from a distance. Driving along the coastline, we often stopped to marvel at the scenery. All around the area, the ocean has shaped fascinating rock formations. After we enjoyed some very empty mountain roads, we arrived in the town of Sintra, where we quickly realized we had picked a bad day for our visit. Abandoning our intentions to visit the nearby Palace,
we decided to head towards Lisbon instead. Portugal’s capital is equally the largest city of the country,
and home to around every fourth Portuguese. Situated along the Tejo River,
Lisbon has been settled by different people groups for millennia. The city is well known for its narrow alleys
and historic living quarters which are best explored on foot. As the city is built on seven hills, walking up stairways
is a fundamental part of the Lisbon experience. Alternatively, visitors can take one of several elevators or funicular railway lines that connect the lower and higher levels of the city. Even more iconic, however, are the historic yellow trams. After purchasing our tickets, we boarded tram 28
and went on a sightseeing ride around the city. During the trip, we noticed that Azulejos are extremely widespread in Lisbon as well. Fascinatingly, their color and style differ vastly leading to an interesting variation of this ornamental art form. During the last weeks a considerable part of
my diet was made up of Portuguese pastries and chiefly among these Pastéis de Nata, the Portuguese
national pastry - which interestingly enough was invented right here at Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. Back in the 18th century, monasteries used large quantities of egg whites for starching clothes, while the egg yolk was left over. Tasked with finding a solution, Catholic monks developed the
Pastel de Nata, a dangerously delicious egg custard tart. When the monastery closed, the monks sold the recipe to a nearby bakery
and the pastry’s meteoric rise commenced. The fascinating and admittedly delicious thing about Pastéis de Nata is that depending on where you will buy
yours, it will taste just a little bit differently. Some are crispier, some are creamier and so every
time you buy one, you're in for a little surprise. Not far from the monastery, the Monument of the Discoveries celebrates the Portuguese Age of Exploration during the 15th and 16th centuries. A little further down the river, the Torre de Belém
was the last building these explorers saw when leaving the city, and the first when they came back. Today, the fortification is Lisbon’s most famous landmark
as it sits prominently along the river. For us, Lisbon was at its most beautiful when the sun
slowly set over the Tejo river mouth. While the clouds were painted in spectacular colors, we sat down in a riverside cafe and watched the day turn into night. Leaving the city southbound, it didn’t take long until we were exploring the cliffs and beaches of the Setúbal Peninsula. Our excitement grew even more, when we discovered
a little off-road trail close to Cabo Espichel. Providing prominent views of Lisbon in the background, the trail led on top of a cliff and was a lot of fun to drive. Much less visited than other capes, Cabo Espichel allows for silent contemplation while enjoying the spectacular cliffside views of the promontory. Throughout the day, we drove along the scenic coastal roads of the peninsula, navigated the narrow streets of Sesimbra, and marveled at the clear water and beautiful beaches of Arrábida Natural Park. While we initially followed the ocean route through the park,
a road closure forced us onto the higher inland route. This turned out to be a stroke of luck,
as the views from up top were nothing short of spectacular. Embarking on a ferry once again, we left the Setúbal Peninsula behind and continued our southward journey. An interesting contrast opened up in Sines, where the local surf break is not far from the massive shipping harbor. Undeterred, both surfers and kite surfers braved the windy conditions. Staying as far away from the main road as possible, we explored many of the sandy backcountry trails of the area. To our joy, we also discovered a trail that led directly on top of the cliff. Even better, due to its remote nature, we had the track all to ourselves. Some time later, the trail got rather tight,
especially for as broad-shouldered a car as ours. After a massive thunderstorm overnight, the sun was a little shy the next morning. Having now officially entered the Algarve, we immediately headed back on as little a trail as we could find. The combination of sandy trails, low shrubbery and ocean vistas soon reminded us of our off-road adventures in Australia. Needless to say, we very much enjoyed ourselves as we were utterly alone,
only surrounded by magnificent nature. Even though it started to drizzle after a while, our spirits remained high. They were lifted even more, when we looked down this particular cliff where it appeared as if the dark rocks were bleeding onto the beach. As the sand was getting increasingly soft, we lowered our tire pressures accordingly. With less air in the tires, it was all smooth sailing, even along the uphill parts. For the remainder of the day, the weather couldn’t decide on a clear course of action as frequent bursts of rain and phases of blue skies chased one another. The only ones who weren’t bothered by all this were the
local fishermen on their precipitous rock ledges. The next morning, we got up early to watch the sunrise at
Europe's most southwesterly tip. Of course, the local fishermen were already up as well. They weren’t the only ones hoping to catch fish though. Gazing out onto the ocean, we discovered a big pod of dolphins in the distance. Behind me there is water. So much water in fact, that people in the past thought this was the end of the world. The Atlantic Ocean stretches for thousands of kilometers from this southwestern tip of Europe and only the seafarers from Portugal, Spain, and Italy in the 15th and 16th century discovered that
there's more out there: namely the Americas. With the sun back in full force, we paid a quick
visit to the Fortaleza de Belixe, which was heavily damaged in the notorious 1755 earthquake
that reduced half of Portugal to rubble. Taking a turn off the main road, we headed onto small gravel trails again. We were thrilled to discover that the rain had left behind countless big puddles which allowed us to re-paint the car in muddy colors. Once more, we were lucky enough to discover several magnificent viewpoints. Generally, the western coastline of the Algarve turned out to be one of our favorites as it was stunningly beautiful while not being overrun. In comparison, Ponta da Piedade is no such secret anymore. Wind and weather have crafted the 20 meter high cliffs
in the most fascinating shapes. The entire area is riddled with caves, arches and other rock formations, while the water of the surrounding sea is incredibly clear. Naturally, this is also a popular spot for taking Instagram photos. The cliffs are especially beautiful during sunset, when the landscape is bathed in a soft golden light. Many people will come together to watch the sun slowly sink into the ocean. With a little bit of luck, someone might even play the guitar. Because of its pleasant climate and beautiful scenery, the Algarve has seen a huge surge in tourism in recent decades. A downside of this development is the construction of large apartment buildings
and hotels along the formerly unspoiled coastline. Especially along the otherwise stunning Seven Hanging Valleys Trail, the vicinity of the hotels frequently impedes the view. Nonetheless, countless breathtakingly beautiful spots remain to be discovered as the entire coast is littered with picturesque limestone caves and grottoes. Occasionally, one can also find sinkholes where the soft rock has collapsed. We just performed a routine check of all of
our tires and lo and behold we collected a screw sometime in the last days, so we sprayed some water
on it, to see if air was coming out of the tire and it does, so now it's time for a tire repair. First, we needed to remove the screw for which we used pliers. Surprisingly, the stubborn little thing put up quite the fight. As soon as it was out, we took a reaming tool to widen the puncture slightly. Following that, we prepared the rubber plug which would seal the hole,
before pushing it into the tire as far as possible. We then cut off the remaining bits with a knife, filled up the tire with air and soon were ready to go again. Continuing to hug the shoreline, we drove east until the scenery began to change. The previously rocky limestone cliffs were replaced
by long sandy beaches in an area that is called the Sand Algarve. Walking through the streets of Faro, we discovered a cafe with a rooftop terrace. To get to the top, we had to take the narrowest spiral staircase ever. Overlooking the roofs of the town,
we sipped on our coffees until we suddenly heard a weird sound. Turning around, we saw a stork clapping its bill mere meters from us. The rooftops and church towers of Faro are immensely popular among storks. Their characteristically large nests can be seen on many buildings. During the day, the birds often strike up a song, clapping their bills in unison. Similar to other birds, they find rich feeding grounds in the nearby lagoons. Walking on a little trail, we made our way towards the
famous anchor graveyard of Praia do Barril. The hundreds of rusting anchors along the beach are a solemn reminder of the traditional fishing methods used to catch bluefin tuna. With the rise of large-scale commercial fishing,
both the local fishing industry and the tuna were virtually wiped out. After having explored all of Portugal’s southern coastline,
it was time for us to head north again. Following the Guadiana river,
we left the Algarve behind and soon arrived in the town of Mértola. Similar to many other settlements along the Spanish border, the cityscape of Mértola is dominated by a castle. Due to its strategic position, the area has been settled for thousands of years by different peoples including Phoenicians, Romans and Moors. Today, the town is somewhat of a walkable history book,
providing a glimpse into its long record of habitation. Continuing our journey, we drove through the
sparsely populated landscapes of the Alentejo. If you ever bought a decent bottle of
wine, chances are good it had a cork in it. Now, cork is a natural material as it is won from
the bark of the cork oak, which grows abundantly in this part of Portugal. Cork oaks are dotted around the landscape
and more often than not carry a number on their trunk, which indicates the year they were last harvested
as a cork oak can only be harvested every nine years. Portugal is regarded as the number one cork producer globally, supplying around 50% of the trade volume. Aside from being used for wine bottles, cork is a versatile, durable and sustainable material that has been growing in popularity. While the cork oak survives on very little rainfall,
other plants struggle with the arid climate. For that reason, the Portuguese dammed the Guadiana River and created one of Europes largest reservoirs, the Barragem do Alqueva. Now, the permanent presence of water allows farmers to practice agriculture, protecting livelihoods in a region that suffers heavily from emigration. Additionally, the damming of the river has fundamentally altered the landscape, making it much more interesting on a road trip. Looking into the distance, we saw dark rainclouds approaching and before long, it was bucketing down. Escaping the bad weather, we went indoors,
visiting the Chapel of Bones in Evora. Undeniably a morbid piece off artistic expression, the chapel was built by Franciscan Monks in the late 16th century. The bones of around 5000 corpses were exhumed from nearby cemeteries to decorate the chapel walls. Lifting the spirits of everyone who enters,
the inscription above the door reads "We bones that are here, wait for yours.“ Considering the experience we just had, we slept surprisingly well that night. Possibly a spiritual site as well, the Almendres Cromlech is a megalithic stone structure
dating back around 8000 years. While its actual purpose remains a mystery,
the stones are yet another proof of Portugal's long habitation. Meeting up with the Guadiana river one last time, we visited Juromenha Castle before driving north on narrow countryside roads. Upon our arrival in Marvão, we discovered that both castle and town
were entirely veiled in clouds. Spending much of the next hour driving in or just below the clouds, we continued to head north until we arrived at Portas do Ródão. Here, a stunning geological formation creates a portal in the Tejo river. A narrow mountain road leads all the way to the top of one side of the portal from where a little keep overlooks the picturesque river landscape below. Always heading north, we left the Alentejo behind and drove towards the more mountainous regions of central Portugal. Along the way, we stopped in the village of Monsanto, one of the most unusual settlements of the country. Built on the side of a hill, the townspeople simply incorporated
gigantic boulders into the architecture of their houses. To take it all in, we sat down on top of one of these boulders for lunch. Of course, the castle above the village equally includes such rocks in the makeup of its outer walls. It's a little windy up here! Naturally, the wind didn’t stop me from climbing up the ramparts, although I almost came to regret it. Fans of lost places will find the former Águas de Radium hotel much to their liking. Built at the beginning of the 20th century, the one-time spa was said to cure a number of ailments using radioactive treatments, a business model that didn’t fare well in the long run. And then, on our way to the summit of Serra de Estrela, it was finally time to hit some mountain roads again. However, as we gained in altitude, we noticed that the wind was starting to pick up in force. Once we reached the first plateau, it had turned into a veritable storm, but this was only a taste of what was to come. While the landscape was stunningly beautiful, the quickly passing clouds were another indicator of the weather at the top. Unperturbed, we carried on, only to find the conditions deteriorate further. Needless to say, there wasn’t much of a view at the summit. Returning to our car after a one hour lunch break, we found it completely iced up. Others even struggled to leave the parking lot. Let's just say we expected our visit to the
highest mountain of mainland Portugal to be somewhat more scenic, however, there's a raging snowstorm outside, our windscreen keeps on freezing every
10 to 15 meters and we have to go out and clear it up but this is a real adventure up here. Look how pitiful he looks. I am so miserable! Trying a second time the next day, we were blessed with blue skies and sunshine. Before long, we drove through an icy wonderland of surreal beauty. Heading towards the summit, we were flabbergasted by how different the landscape looked compared to the day before. At 1,993 meters, the highest point of mainland Portugal is known as Torre. Less a distinctive mountain peak and more of a plateau, the summit is marked by a trig point and two old radar stations. While the previous day's snowstorm had been replaced by sunshine, its remnants were still very much visible. The entire landscape was covered in a thick layer of ice which resulted in some beautiful natural artwork. Driving through this world of ice and rocks,
we could barely believe that we were still in Portugal. With the sun slowly setting, we headed down the winding mountain road,
following the course of the glacial valley. Getting up early the next morning, we watched the magnificent sunrise which promised us yet another beautiful day in the mountains. After freeing our windshield from some ice, we went out in search of the smallest trails in the area. It did not take us long until we found a gravel track leading through a landscape of low shrubs and big rocks. During the summer, this region is perfectly suited for extended hiking trips. Equally, off-road enthusiasts will find the countless
gravel trails in the vicinity much to their liking. Leaving the Serra de Estrela behind, we followed some narrow roads until arriving at Foz de Égua, a picturesque mountain village built out of schist. Best known for its historic double bridge, the tranquil village is still a hidden treasure. After embarking on some roads that re-defined the term ‚winding‘, the weather started to turn south once more and we were left with zero visibility. The weather today has been downright hideous, but luckily the living quarters of our expedition vehicle are large enough so that we can snuggle up in the back with a cup of tea, watching the Lord of the Rings for the umpteenth time. Hearing some weird noises outside, we looked out the window, only to find a Shepard braving the rain with his flock of goats. Having waited out the rain, we embarked on one last adventurous road. Carrying the name Portal do Inferno e Garra or Hell’s Gate and Claw, this mountain pass sounded like an absolute delight. As soon as we started to climb up the steep road, we knew we were in for a treat. After several hairpin turns, we arrived at the portal which towers 1000 meters above sea level. Providing us with sweeping views, this pass turned out to be one of our favorite drives in Portugal. After 5 weeks of traveling all throughout the country, our road trip ended where it had all started: along the shores of the Douro river. Blessed with a magnificent display of stars, we spent our last night reminiscing about the adventures we had had. Several times along the journey we had realized how our preconceived notions about Portugal were shattered in front of our eyes. More than just a sunny beach destination, Portugal delighted us with its variety of landscapes, its rich history, and its scenic roads. Portugal has proven to be diverse, wild and rugged - and as such, a perfect destination for a road trip.
