Part 2-5 1998 5.7 350 CI Vortec Engine Rebuild

all right my parts are at the machine shop I wasn't able to source out a couple of good head so I went ahead and bought a brand new set of heads from Summit Racing it's their summit heads their vortex style head and it's made by Dart they should be pretty good heads but I'm waiting for my pistons to come in which unfortunately it's not going to be until Thursday I'm sending the block out to be decked and bored but they need the Pistons because they're going to actually machine each hole to the actual piston itself because the Pistons may have a little bit of deviation in them so they're going to be set right on the money in terms of tolerance so I'm waiting for that to happen once I get the Pistons in and get them over there I'll probably get it back the next day they'll bore it out press the Pistons onto the rods be done but in the meantime have been cleaning up peripherals the tins things of that nature all the nuts and bolts have been put through the ultrasonic cleaner so they're all super clean and ready to go this is the bracket that holds down the lifter plates I wasn't able to put the whole thing in the ultrasonic cleaner just about half and half and then had to put it in different positions I had to clean the middle section pretty much by hand but it's better than doing it all by hand so anything I can fit in that ultrasonic cleaner is great you guys haven't seen the video on that check it out it's kind of small I already won a bigger one but this is the pickup for the front of the crank I thought this thing was aluminum oxide it was black when I put it in there this is the way it came out there's another example of something that's been cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner this is well had to put be put in there in certain positions and run it on many cycles this is the where the oil filter spends on and the oil cooler lines run off right here I went ahead and took the fittings and the plugs out and resealed those just to make sure I'm not going to have any leaks but this thing is super super clean in and out and no scrubbing no nothing that cleaner ultrasonic cleaner is awesome but anyway I was working on the intake here pulling off the thermostat housing the thermostat pull it off EGR valve taking the Spyder injector out this is a Spyder injector it's called that because it looks like a spider obviously but it's just mounted in this clip and this clip is loose that's not a problem but you've got to be very careful with these because these lines are pretty brittle and you can break them and these things are pretty expensive from what I understand so you have to squeeze these clips on here and carefully get them out of these holes where the poppets are installed and then push the spiders together the legs and then work on this clamp there's some clips that hold it in you have to peel one side and just slowly work it out and then you can get it out of there I will clean this up more than likely I'll take these nuts off the bottom pull these out spray some brake clean in there blow them out something but it will all be getting cleaned up as well of course cleaning the manifold this is going to be a fun task I think I'm going to soak it in some purple power what not and I'm actually going to break out my power washer outside and try to get the bulk of this off and I'll do what I can't do by hand but since it's a brand-new motor cause all this gunk and crud that could get sucked down in it I don't want it there so everything is getting super super clean like it's brand-new so that's where I got the lower intake manifold all cleaned up I took probably two to three hours what I used was this Berryman b12 chem - carburetor choke and throttle body cleaner this is great stuff for dissolving things and it does not have a bad interaction with aluminum it's just fine and safe to use but helping us out clean all these intake port runners are all the way through they're spotless I still have to scrub with the toothbrush you know get down in there and get in the nooks and crannies but it's easy work it just took a little bit of time the reason this is so nasty up in here they get nasty is it has an EGR valve that sits right here that's exhaust gas recirculation so it basically takes spent gas from the exhaust puts it back in through this pipe and it refeeds it through the cylinders to burn it again so it's supposed to make the emissions run a little bit better but they sure make things nasty on the inside of an engine so this is all cleaned up ready to go all right guys I was cleaning on my parts and peripherals and ran into a problem I got to the Spyder injector and I was getting ready to clean it up first thing I noticed was hopefully you can see how these are shaped on the end and in their length I had one of them that was just melted off it's just burned off on the end hopefully you can see that now I had gone through the lower manifold and replaced the intake gaskets on this as well as gone into the upper manifold removed the Spyder and cleaned it about two years ago they have to keep in mind that this truck has probably only been used about 500 to a thousand miles in that time so why this happened I'm not real sure but here's one thing I found interesting the cylinder that I had the exhaust valve on happened to be number five on the exhaust side this came from the number-5 injector right there now these are in the manifold on the intake side but this evidently got so hot at some point that it just melted this plastic off and it was not that way when I did the rebuild two years ago I would have addressed it so what I ended up doing in lieu of spending $300 on an aftermarket Spyder injector to replace this because I spent tons of money so far I'll tabulate it out at the end of the video is order some of these off eBay and would you believe I'm paying $28 for eight of these pieces of plastic but it's going to save me money because I find nothing wrong with all the injectors now I went ahead and pulled the one out of the number five hole and I tested it even prior that simply with just a 9-volt battery I'm going to try to let you hear it clicking but here we go I don't know if you hear that clicking noise that indicates that it is actuated properly and I did pull the hose off of that and shot some compressed air in this end and watch the poppet move and it is moving it is not hung up so between replacing the ends I'm also going to put an o-ring seal kit in here which is 14.6 t9 since when I pulled the play off that holds the injectors in I noticed some fresh fuel in here and it shouldn't be so it appears that a couple of these o-rings are leaking just a bit so all these injectors are going to come out I'm going to reseal those I will clean and check all the poppet valves and make sure that they're okay as well as put a whole brand-new set of fins on them and hopefully a salvage myself and have to lay out the $300 this thing's gone 200,000 miles a lot of people don't like these I don't really know why but it's run that long so hopefully I can get it again so it'll be totally dismantled cleaned Oh ring seal blew ends on everything checked out dial in then we'll go all right the spider injector assembly has been 100% dismantled clean inspected new sealed the thought any other looks brand-new if you ask me you have to be very careful getting these injectors out of here after you remove this plate there's a small hole in between these two pins you have to press on that push them out these openings are really seated in overtime so what I ended up doing was digging the little plastic ring out from the bottom digging the o-ring out from the bottom and that took a little bit away from it so I could just press them out of there everything worked out okay for me the kit which was about $15 did not come with the o-rings in this area for the fuel pressure regulator so those have been reused there's a larger one here on this end and then there's a small one and another small one down on here there was no issue with that but buyer beware if you're buying the rebuild kit it may not be 100% so at this point I'm just waiting for the new ends to come in to put on those should be here on Saturday and then this will be ready to go back into service I found no issue with it whatsoever aside from just simply needing rebuild so it should last a long time at this stage all right well here's my crude oil cooler cleaning contraption I've got a 12-volt Holley fuel pump down here I borrowed from my dad and it's being powered by a 12-volt power supply I'm flushing the system in Reverse so I'm going in the out and it's coming back in I've got some purple power in that pan right there it's being pumped up through the oil cooler which is part of the radiator and then going back through to paint strainers so I can see if there was any swarf in it or anything like that you know typically you might want to change that oil cooler out but it's part of the radiator and that's another you know 150 160 bucks you know and where do you stop so I'm going to flush it with purple power for a while I may chase it with some new I'll switch over to kerosene and run it for a while until it's super clean and then it will be followed by super hot water and then dried out with compressed air all right I got the block the crank and the Pistons back from the machine shop a few days ago I've been cleaning all the other parts so I'm cleaning up the block now so I can paint it I'm going to paint it first then do the heads separately and then put it together and the reason for that is I can't get it far enough away from my house to paint it whole so it's going to be going out in pieces and then I'll put it together wheel it out the front and stick it back in the truck I had it board out 30 thousandths over I had a decked it came out of the hot tank and still kind of scaly it had paint that was still on it so I've been stripping it to prepare the block for the paint job not fun but not hard it's coated in wd-40 right now just so it doesn't flash rust I'll wipe it down with some brake cleaner some lacquer thinner right before I paint it so I'm at the stage now where I need to remove a little bit of the paint that's still holding on mask it off and shoot it and I'm going to start putting it back together all right well I've mentioned earlier in the video I believe that instead of using the drive-in galley oil plugs right here that they're staked so they can't come out that I was going to tap these holes out for pipe thread plugs so I have done that I intended to do this before we went to the machine shop but I just simply ran out of time so I did it right now instead of just using a cutting oil on this it's just a trick you might entertain I stuck the tap down in grease and got it greasy so as I was cutting my threads the chips were actually embedding themselves in the grease so there was very little in there that I needed to clean out post threading things to clean anything out I had to simply took my rifle kit and I ran from the back side to the front and pushed any of that those chips out so it is super super clean and one thing to note on me is especially in this one right here there is a hole just shortly in there that oils this front cam bearing and in turn goes down and wills the front crank journal on the main so you want to make sure that you don't go too deep with your plug or you can block off that oil passage and starve the motor of what it so these are looking good right now and there's another thing to note they'll go in a little bit deeper than what they are now that's just hand tight but you want to make sure when you get your camera tainer on and then of course the the timing gear that runs on the cam that you don't interfere with these as well so everything is looking good in my case these will be installed with a high temp thread sealant and that will ensure that no oil gets past them and I will just get the oil where I need it now this is usually a racing type application or something like that where you're using like a high pressure maybe high volume oil pump and you don't want to run the risk of blowing those oil galley plugs out the front and losing your oil pressure this is just something I elected to do makes me feel better and it only took me about 15-20 minutes to do it all right I went ahead and painted the back of the block and drove in my core plugs as well as the cam plug I also use some high temp thread sealant on these three plugs and installed those this way I can get it back on the stand and paint the rest of it so this will now be masked off well.alright blocks been painted got it back on the stand in here turn it up you can see I just went with the basic semi-gloss black looks pretty good what I'm doing right now is chasing the threads for the head bolts and all the bolts for that matter and block and I'm using a thread chaser this is not a tap this might be called a thread restorer but I'm just simply going into every single head bolt hole and I'm using a speed wrench and just run it am in and knocking any scale or anything at all off it might be on there plain and simple it's what I'm doing here that will ensure when I put the new head bolts in and torque them down that there's nothing interfering with that torque if there's a bunch of scale or garbage in there you may not get an accurate reading post doing this the first thing I'm going to do is fit the cam even though the camshaft was fit at the machine shop I was actually there when he did I've got a new cam so I want to make sure the cam fits in there properly because there is a problem I want to catch it right now before I get the whole motor put together with a camp crankshaft and everything else in it so that's just where I'm starting is to fit the cam all right I got my new camshaft out and cleaned it up from the packing residue shut it down hot water blew it off and then put a light coating of wd-40 on it I'm getting ready to install it and I actually found some camshaft and lube pre Lube camshaft lifts or pre lube that I've got 20-something years so I've got the motor upside down I'm going to go ahead and manually coat the cam bearings with my finger now this is a roller lifter so this lubricating the lobes is probably not even really required especially since I'm going to run the oil pump primer on it first the reason I'm doing it this way is if you just lubricate the lobes or the journals on the cam it's going to push a lot of it out and in my opinion this really isn't even required it's just something I'm doing since I had it all right oh excuse me so we'll flip it over and then stall the cam this is kind of a reverse of what I had done when I was taking it out just slowly coming in here and just happen underneath the cylinders here to guide it in moving down into the next one ha moving into the next hole ah and finally the last hole having a little bit of an issue finding that one hmm ah there it goes all right well the cam is installed and I can turn it no problem and that's why I started right here because there was an issue on a misalignment with these cam bearings or anything or maybe they were too big or too small I want to find that out first so that looks good right there so I'm ready to put on the retainer on the front just go ahead and lock this cam in place all right well I've installed the camera tainting plate on the front a little bit of lube behind it these two bolts have been torqued down to eighteen foot pounds all right well I'm going to put some lube on these cam lobes this is a roller system roller cam and lifters so this it really isn't require but I'm going to put some on it anyway typically this would be done outside the block and you would just have a goopy mess that you were trying to put in there I like doing it this way put the cam in first lubricate the journal's get it in there flip the block upside down and then you can access it right here and I'm still clean so I'll do that very thing I'm just going to put some on it there and there and just run my finger around each one while turning the cam now this stuff is really only designed to be there in my opinion for the initial startup so I'm completely satisfied with the fit the cam at this stage so now I think I'm going to drive in the core plugs a lot of people call them freeze plugs they're really not freeze plugs their core plugs they're just plugs from the casting and they've been driven in to simply fill the hole from the casting process whether or not they will pop out if the block gets cold enough to freeze I don't know all right I'm installing the core plugs now you can see I've got a little bit of tape around here and cut it out the reason for that is I'm using this Indian head gasket shellac compound this is really nasty stuff you can run these plugs dry but I'm not taking the risk of anything leaking so I'm going to put it in with this shellac compound I've made myself a driver to install these and set them at their proper depth on my lathe so in essence what I'm going to do here is take some of the shellac and just put a nice light coating in this hole excuse me and I'll also just put a thin layer around here there we go and we're getting ready to install the plug and this is going to get loud but here we go I should just have to drive this till it stops and there we go take a little bit of lacquer thinner and clean up the mess and I'll do the rest the exact same way well alright all the core plugs have been installed I'm now installing these three plugs in the front which I had tapped I'm using this Permatex high temp sealant and I'm starting at about a thread back and I'm going around at about three-quarters the way that's all you need right there so I'll tighten this up and do the other two and this step will be complete all right well these three players have been sealed and installed I put the cam gear on just to make sure that nothing was going to interfere here everything looks really good right now all right I've just installed the forgotten oil plug which is in this hole right here there's a passage that runs this way and one that runs that way and the plug sits in between those two I had mentioned earlier in the video that if if this is not put in you may not have oil pressure I don't believe that's actually true you will have a little pressure but you won't have this filtration one of these passages runs off to the oil filter itself and the other one I believe is the one that escapes it so make sure you get that in there I set mine to a depth of just shy of an inch and a half which is what I measured before I knocked it out so everything is looking good right now all right I'm still installing plugs but this one right here and now we'll be installing this plug right here and there we go and yet another plug I think I've about got the block tight in terms of plugs caps this that and the other and there we go all right well this is the passenger side I'm stalling the knock sensor right now and there we have it all right I'm going to stall the gear on the front of this I put in my Woodruff keys I'm doing this now because I don't want to do it with it in the block because as you're beating this on you'll be hammering on your thrust bearing so I'm just using a 36 millimeter socket and that's it now obviously I put the dot to the outside and I do have it sitting on a block wood now it's ready to go in alright I'm getting ready to install the crankshaft I've got all the new bearings inserted here you just need to make sure that the ones with the holes are there the uppers and there's an oiling passage the ones that go into caps do not have that so assembly Lube could be used here I'm just going to use straight oil so I'll just put a little on here work it around just a little bit to cope this server surface I'm going to be pre priming the motor anyway before it's installed so this is the way I always do it or the way I've always done it so now I need to set the crank in very carefully and there it is I'll lubricate the caps I'll get the bolts lubricated on the threads as well as up underneath the Hat and then they'll be torque down to spec now the caps are numbered at least on my motor one to four so that arrow points towards the front of the block this would be number one two three four five the thrust bearing cap is not marked but it can only go in in one direction anyway

Channel: ghostses

Views: 145,936

Keywords: 1998, 5.7, 350, CI, Vortec, Engine, Rebuild, Cubic, Inch, motor, Summit, Racing, Harbor, Freight, 2.5, Liter, Ultrasonic, Cleaner, Review, Item, 95563, jewelry, carburetor, engine rebuild, 69334, Chicago, electric, pneumatic, spline, plus, masonry, demolition, concrete, mortar, Carbide, Belt, Sander, modifications, tool, grinder, bit, grinding, tools, mill, milling, turning, diy, how, to, machine, machining, hss, high, speed, steel, woodworking, wood, metal, beltsander, jig, fixture, make, dressing, wheel, wheels, dresser, dressor

Id: OmES8cURSNg

Length: 33min 13sec (1993 seconds)

Published: Sun Nov 09 2014