Part 11.0 ULTIMATE Voron 2.4R2 SUPER StealthBurner

hey welcome back to the Build It basement I am kerm today we're working on our stealth burner for our voron 2.4 R2 and this thing is probably going to be a two-part series because we are packing a lot of stuff inside of this stealth burner we've got unicorns 4K cameras Rapido hot ends and a lot more so watch the video and check it out so quick overview of what we got going on right here right now there we go um I'm just gonna go over some of the parts we're installing here uh we have our thedas rapido we have let's go to wider camera than this this is just too close that's better yeah all right back to this we got our fetus our Rapido and of course a nice shade of blue to match with the rest of the printer we've got this special Lineo uh rainbow what is this called rainbow barf so Yeah so basically unicorn barf right for all the kids out there this is unicorn which came around this is Unicorn bar so very cool thing check it out KB 3D has them just look up uh Lineo Rainbow Bar you'll find it there and probably I don't know six seven videos from now we'll uh probably do some programming in Clipper to make some cool stuff happen with that uh so we have that we also have our 4K Sony 3DO nozzle camera very slick very small very cool we have our special Lineo sunglasses AKA a polycarbonate piece here with some some special darkening around where that's actually comes so when that comes out of our voron on the print there it will uh it's kind of kind of look a little cooler than normal what else we have what else do we have we have well we have neopixels but that's built into our unicorn so we don't need that that's what came with the kit we have a two piece board for this again from lino two-piece stealth burner not putting can in this quite yet but uh maybe there'll be a whole upgrade series too right you know why why end it with just the ultimate build when you can make the ultimate ultimate build so all that being said let's take a look at PDF and and start building all right so first things first we have our fan block here at the HUD end and a bunch of information here Clockwork one Clockwork chick missing Corner uh one thing to note on these parts so the people at Boron the high-end Engineers that do all this for free for you and me they've gone ahead and they've stamped in letters to let us know which part we have and which revision of that part it is for which type of hot end we have for instance that's right here is that focused kind of focused right there so it has a p RPD which stands for the fetus Rapido um pretty dang Nifty if you do ask me and then we also have other markings on other things to tell us what they are so we know we have the right parts right it doesn't work with the right parts now I've gone ahead and already put some heat certs inside these parts so I've done skipped ahead of that just because that is boring is all Health watch and if you've made this far through the build or you're doing your own build you would have already practiced and you would put it hundreds if not thousands of heat certs into things or at least a dozen um or two so we're going to skip over that but right here we will look at this real quick he starts to these two right here or for an optional adxl PCB Mount that's so you can do your input shaping if you choose to do so which I highly suggest you do at least once when you first build it and probably twice three times or anytime you make any major changes to your war on um on top of that that's also another mounting point that we could possibly use to mount our PCB for our 3DO camera but we'll get into that in a little bit so hot end so they right here using the revo Hutton which I have a few of a few of everything at this point which unfortunately is part of this hobby right you wind up with extra stuff and for good bad or indifference um they become spare parts so what they're doing here is they're kind of showing you how the revo goes together which is kind of interesting I guess um and kind of how it mounts and how the wiring goes through with your thermistor as well as your hot end wiring so you have that all right there and bending a strain relief almost all the hunt end you have are going to have some type of strain relief now the Rapido has a very similar design that you could argue is a little too similar but it's it's good you know these things are all good the biggest thing about this type of community is nobody wants to Rick anybody over the coals for the most part when it comes to some minor plagiarism plagiarism anyways so copying is not necessarily a bad thing with some modification and some tinkering and making things better and letting people choose what they want now if you have a patent on something by all means everybody should note that patent and not kind of disregard it but if you're not all the better for the community things tend to change quicker and better and faster for all the people that are utilizing the parts when there aren't patents involved so particular part of this this uh this this hot end here on the revo is not part of the patent the actual patent is the hot end itself and how it goes all the way up through and it's one piece between the uh the actual nozzle and the heat break so um again similar so right here we're getting into the actual build we're mounting the hot end and we're putting the back on it so we're going to jump right in and start doing that all right so let's start someplace huh so just quickly show everybody what the ripito looks like if you don't know this one actually has the heat block or the heater core taken off it along with the thermistor and you wind up with a roughly three part piece here if you don't cut the or count the Locking nut here you want to put your your hot end with a thermal break and a spring to hold everything align when you put it together and that's what you're going to see in your manual for your Boron it's going to throw that back together real quick don't ask me where the uh the heater course for that I probably stole it but someplace else uh but on the rapido rapido bambito good stuff oh try to get that out I'm gonna leave the rest of the stuff in there for now looks like some wiring some nozzles we don't need any of that uh the first thing we are going to do though is we are going to disassemble the top portion of this okay so what we're looking for is just to have the mounting screws available to us so we don't need this top section that's on here we want the actual screws so we can mount this so I'm going to unscrew these and one screw and two screw and we can see that now we have four screw holes utilize which is a good thing because that is exactly how many we need okay and we are actually going to be mounting this slightly cocked in that is so that we can actually get everything where we need it to be um that being said I'm going to bend I'm gonna Bend I'm going to bend I'm going to bend this shows a little bit let's see if this zip ties a little bit I don't want to be overly aggressive with this stuff it's probably one of the fragile areas of the printer we do want this wire to kind of be protected and it's going to go above that hole so we want something like that and our screw holes are just almost aligning where we want them so that is going to work for us okay so as for mounting this the screws that we're going to need let's see if they came with this rapido I guess we are going to open up this stuff um I think we're good let's see here printing something special behind me I had a very nice gentleman that let's see what was the gentleman's name Woody Woody decided to do some practice in Fusion 360 and do a quick rendition of my Build It basement logo for me and I am printing it off right now so we're going to see how that turns out in a second so let's see if these screws are long enough first of all I don't know I have no idea uh it is going to make it all right I'm going to throw caution to the wind and piss off about 10 percent of my audience and I'm going to put a little thread Locker in these little holes and if nothing else we have expanding expansion and contraction Happening Here due to the temperature variance that we're going to get and I am willing to risk blasphemy of having a little bit of thread Locker touch a little bit of ABS plastic foreign if you think I'm crazy go ahead and leave me a comment I don't mind I like getting comments what is what it is there we go a little bit in there so now I'm going to put this back on here and that snaps in like that give it a quick [Music] kind of a half a twist it's kind of like a high dive right it's going to do the uh triple twist this isn't right there's where are my good tools that's what happens I go on a little miniature vacation with the family and I lose all my bearings and all my tools and all my good stuff or good enough stuff right so let's get that there let's get the second one in there too so just like on the revo uh the revovoron these mounting screws are used in most hot ends even though you may not realize it are able to come apart on the top at least quite a few of them are so you can actually Mount them in different ways and um this just happens to be how this goes in yeah cool nice all right so PDF manual hot end wiring strain relief so we're at and putting the back onto it so the back portion of this print is actually the secondary two mounting screws for the for the hot end itself uh so that kind of locks it in place let's go back to the camera here uh let's cut it right in nice and tight for this we'll get all the views today so Mr hot end right here and this guy right here is going to get mounted on top like so okay and this is basically going to hold everything together where we want it okay so I already have a little bit I'm not putting thread lock in this it's not a real functional part in terms of it actually holding back on anything or mounting anything other than the fact that it's the secondary amount for this hot end which it is going to be on it's this is going to become a sandwich more than anything else once this is on the printer this back piece so I'm going to tighten those up decently but not too much so the manual is calling out for some M3 by 12s most hot ends will come with its own screws if you do need them you can try them three by twelves but you may very well need to go something slightly shorter maybe something longer depending on the printer I am going to clean up a little bit here I see some some invasive I just broke that well that ain't good hmm a little duck there I'm not gonna report the part um very thin it's kind of interesting uh if nothing else is just kind of guide air a little bit more I don't think it's gonna make much of a difference so we'll leave that if nothing else is used to bridge so your tops don't cave in on each other so I think I'm good with that kind of sucks though they want to break something so that's where we're at back to the PDF again we done did that and three by twelves okay and yep so if you will notice our our holes are staggered a little bit those ones are straight on uh and three mounting bolts because we can that's why other high-end signs may use different mounting hardware absolutely true absolutely noted dually truly noted uh PTFE stick out the PTFE tube should stick out 11 millimeters above the surface of the printed part the stick out length might vary if you use an extruder other than the Clockwork too so this basically is the part that's going to lead our filament from our Clockwork 2 directly into a hot end and you do want to be relatively precise with this because if you're not one or two things going to happen you're either going to mushroom the top of this piece and cause it so that you have trouble to get the filament actually down through or you're going to wind up with a gap if you wind up with a gap you have a hard Edge that your filament could possibly hit so what I suggest you do is get as close to possible this and then do a very slight small ream using um using a cut off some small Cutters flat uh what do you call them flat cutters let's do this one right here uh some Flush Cutters this event so some flush cars like this and then basically you can put the end inside and ream it out a little bit let me get some let me get some PTFE tubing I got some good old-fashioned Capricorn that I'm going to use your kit probably came with some and my kit did too but uh this is in my hand already so um basically what I want to do is stick this in I want to push it as hard as I can went in pretty easy and I'm just going to cut it long for now when I cut this I'm going to do a little bit of a twist like that and then we're going to wind up eventually cutting it with a razor blade so we get a nice flat cut and then we're going to do that Remy I just talked about so let's measure our 11 millimeters first from the top of this guy so we're zeroed out 11 millimeters coming up gonna love that when it goes from 11.01 to 10.98 foreign sensitive all right neatness counts so what I'm going to do kind of attempt to do is measure this where I want it and I'm going to basically [Music] let me switch cameras for y'all basically put this in position so it holds itself because I only have two hands that's all I got and I'm going to Mark that Just a Little Neck that you can feel at your fingers but you probably can't see all that well I'm going to pull this back out find our mark hopefully that's it [Music] I'm gonna Mark that a little bit this time foreign one Fell Swoop give that a quick flush cut as flush as I can make it and the other end on this was already flush the other end on this is already flush as soon as I don't speak English um so you don't need to re-cut that one but that should be right where we want it I'm going to recheck it re-measure it here and it looks pretty dang good and then what I'm going to do is going to slightly put these inside and I'm going to use the Cutting Edge to slightly very slightly ream this out so kind of have a funnel effect and that is not working for me so we're gonna go to option two with an X-Acto Knife and try the same thing because when you're doing things on video it never does what you want to do the whole point here is kind of just give yourself a little bit extra room to play with you don't want a ton but you want a little bit now if you do decide to do this the big thing I will mention is you want to make sure with one thousand percent certainty that you do not have any more that PTFE two fragment stuck inside that tube because it will Jam you up there we go looks good back to the manual all right we have the 11 millimeters there PTFE stick out and now on to the front set that aside all right so we're going to be removing some supports they're highlighted in blue I guess we can do that right now so for number one we'll clean these up too right okay and then these guys down here we're leaving some of this on because our wiring is actually going to be guided through these areas so that's the only purpose for these parts and the sports are to make sure they don't cave in during the prayer process they got a little bit of a stress fracture on that one but I think we'll be okay schmidly in there good all right so that's all we need to clamp on that part now this right here this part is two-tone and that was done using I believe it's an m600 call on your printer which is a pause so I do not have a dual cinnamon filament printer an idex or anything like that but if you put an m600 at a layer change that will cause your printer to pause and then allow you to do a filament change uh and if you do it decently you can have a two-tone part I believe this was at probably layer six maybe around there not 100 sure um and you also notice that this part is slightly different from the original afterburner because it has this down here this is a grill segment that leads to a mounting point for a 4k camera that is the 4k camera that we got right here this is the 3DO nozzle camera I purchased this one from KB 3D it's kb-3d if you want to go to the website Taco Chris you can get you some of these they come in at 1080p as well as a 4K and it is USB connected back to your Raspberry Pi and um should be pretty neat once we get that going of course it's going to require us to do more software configuration but um that will be fun and good time so I'm going to clean up real quick here let's get this stuff out of the way before we jump into the next thing screws put that back into our keto box set that aside and PDF PDF so right here we're skipping ahead by Leaps and Bounds if you decide you want to take the um the technical fun bootstrapping method of building your which do it if you want to extend the time it takes you build it but you want to do everything yourself you can buy your own LEDs you can buy your own oh neopixels and you can set these all up wire them out wire your own wires to them everything like that and uh there's going to be three and then the wiring going to it and these are all basically run in uh series let's see yeah why not see layup uh in parallel actually parallel to the logo LED and then off to the second ones which are ins and outs uh and you can do that if you want to I had the rainbow barf is pretty neat and if you don't know what that is you'll see it in a later video or you can again go to KV 3D and check it out ours also comes with the holder that you see here uh and it's built right onto the rainbow barf and the light diffuser is from L actually it's from Lineo and the new little part our part actually has it's a single part all together and it has a little bit of a um I don't know what to call it probably a smoked look to the front part of this so it looks black when nothing's on but it's kind of neat so we're going to install these and we're also going to install the camera and the mounts and all that stuff but uh yeah let's uh let's jump into that we'll do this on a close-up so first things first I'm actually going to mount the camera because we got to deal with this now this is really flexible and it's really thin but it's also relatively fragile so we're mounting the camera basically in this little spot here and this is a nozzle camera this will basically give us a really good close-up of what's going on with the nozzle and I'm going to basically seat this in and I'm not going to put a lot of stress or doing pulling of this because it is a ribbon cable and it will easily fracture off of the board I'm just going to do some pushing as much as I can without actually even messing with that ribbon cable at all so let's see where we're at we need to go in just a little bit more and [Music] there we go snap it right into place now it has this little red tab on here that is our lens protector I'm gonna leave that on for now that does need to come off you have a cloudy looking video that is probably the reason why but you know that you already know that so pushing down on that t-section again not putting a ton of pressure down there on the connection to the actual camera and then I'm going to give it a small very small twist to Route it right around through and to the side right here so we've gone from here up around down up around through here and now we're going to meet it right here onto this back corner okay and then it is going to get routed I'm going to put a small little fold in this a 90 degree fold to change direction it's kind of hard to see but basically right here put a 90 degree fold on that you don't need to press it hard or anything like that that is going to go up that way and then we're going to wind up up here and I'm going to again give it another 90 degree fold so we can make those corners so we're looking like this okay now we might have to modify this I have not installed one of these yet I have not installed this one yet so this is all new to me as well so we'll see where we wind up here so we have that in here next the unicorn barf and I just want to keep saying unicorn barf because frankly it's kind of fun to say unicorn barf but here's our Unicorn bar so first thing we need to do is install our Lineo diffuser that's this guy right here and that is going to go down with the Shaded segments with a logo facing downwards and it's going to plop into place and with a little bit of luck [Music] we can get that in there there we go what I suggest you do if you're having trouble getting that in is try to get the portion of it that's nearest to you in first and then work the back end downwards so you get sit flat and then on the front it's going to look like that so it's black until it lights up okay next part we have our holder with our special LEDs and that is going to go in backwards couldn't see it if I did it that way that is going to go in nope that popped up on me as soon as we get that where we need this that is going to go in on top of our diffuser and this does have a little bit of a kind of like a little uh locking pin on there walking clip pin whatever you want to call it and it's gonna kind of work its way in there until it seats all the way like so okay won't go any further it's all the way in there that's holding everything in place now it's 100 percent okay so let's take a look at the regular manual and see where that puts us kind of done that and let's see the wire routing okay so wire routing our connection wiring is gonna go one way and other wiring is going to go the other way so because [Music] I'm going to do this a slightly different way in the show in the manual because you know why not and part of it is because I'm going to try to keep as much away from actually in the end I guess it doesn't really matter much but I was going to try to keep as much away from these camera wires as possible so I was going to run the actual primary wires upwards here so that's going to wind up up there and I'm going to run these this way on the opposite side and we might have to change this but I like to keep noisy items away from each other and I like to always keep anything electrical away from cameras specifically so you can spend a lot of time trying to figure out why something's happening with the video feed I wanted to find that it's something silly video is very susceptible so we're so receptive or reception yeah it's receptive I think if I work on my English as a second language all right so we got that right there we're gonna need a little room up there when we get the fan in but I think we'll be okay leave a little bit of slack then we're going to run our first LED this one is underneath so I'm gonna slide and be careful with these wires too this is PTFE wiring so it's not the most flexible stuff in the world um but it's very good stuff three good when it comes to withstanding high temperatures and abrasion so that snaps right in like that this is going to utilize this channel that's right here to get it from point A to point B my hands are going to be in the way through most of this and I apologize oh and that's a reason why I don't step on that [Music] go [Music] and see if we can tuck this down a little bit it's kind of a fidgety part of the build here um but you know what it's a gateway to the wiring of the whole printer so um get used to it right but cool stuff comes more wiring with more wiring comes a lot more of the neatness counts stuff luckily there are places to tuck wires in here that are pre-designated so that's a big help sometimes you'll build something you know the details just aren't there what they say about a picture being equal to a thousand words and that rains true not only ah with the painting or whatever but also big time when it comes to something technical like this now I have some extra wiring here what I'm going to do here is I'm going to make sure I don't grab my ribbon cable here but I'm gonna I'm gonna actually give this like a small twist and hope I don't break anything and trying to do is work these wires so that they kind of fit down and around that ribbon cable a little bit without imposing on it too much the last thing I want to do is cause damage to that ribbon so let's see we got that there and my hands are fully in the way and I understand that and I apologize but I will show you in a moment where I am and what I did foreign I can't tell I think that we'll just about do a yes okay so what I've done is I've run my wiring through here real quick we've gone down to this portion this led we've tucked our wires around through here and then we've looped those wires basically forward and then back and then back up because we had some excess here and then that's what we have and we did it all with the ribbon cable already in place now the reason why I ran that ribbon cable first is if we had run the ribbon cable Now versus um first you can kind of figure out that be awful hard to get that ribbon Cable in place it's much wider and it's not anywhere near as flexible in terms of how you can place it as three strands or six or whatever strands of wires that we're dealing with here depending on where we are in this harness so that's where we're at with that back to the PDF all right so support structure highlight part building support lightly they're designed to break during fan installation yep so first hand so this is our hot end cooling fan that we're going to get in and it's not much to say about that other than the fact that we need to make sure that we get our wiring in the right location uh whereas the right location I will show you right now so what they want to do is make sure that your fan you have an open end here with the spinning ball bobber the actual fan and you have your basket back here and what you want to do uh what I'm going to do is I'm going to pull that out like that just to give you more to work with I'm not going to pull these wires again you've got to be careful with these wires the solder points on these are pretty small all this stuff but what this is going to allow me to do is kind of hold this like this give it a Twist backwards a little bit and allow me to push this up in forward because this is how the wiring is supposed to go so I want to make sure I'm clearing everything I'm not overly pinching on anything actually before I get too far on that I need to do I need to get this where it needs to be so stand by for a quick moment and I'm not exactly sure how much oh I guess well I guess that wasn't too difficult okay all right so back to where we were all right so ban part like this fan going in wiring up the top pushing in the top first snapping down the bottom it should lock right into place just like so this wiring right here is going to get tucked and is going to wind up up in the same path as everything else thus far I'm just going to use my blunt ended tweezers here real quick let's give it a little bit of a coaxing back there I already had the um a little wiring back there so I didn't want to force the issue in terms of getting this wiring all the way back there as well so I think we can just tuck this in a little bit and we should be okay and then I am going to attempt impossible feat of getting yet another wire up this channel um there we go do some final tucking and like so awesome look at that are you sexy all right so we're at that point let's get back to the PDF fan orientation yes we did that we did that we did that and wire riding we did that because we already routed a ton of stuff all here in that direction and where are we at part cooling fan so we got some modification to do we're gonna take this thing apart and clip off the ears pretty much what this says right here it's a 50 15 fan there is a jig I don't think you need it but if you decide you want to use it go ahead and use that jig we're going to weigh it so first things first is we're going to de-shroud this fan so pull these apart one by one there are three of these clips and once you get all three of them foreign so now we have a fan that's open with some ears I'm going to clip off the ears we do not need the ears we're going to clip them off I'm going to put my flush cuts on the inside of them and I'm going to cut one way than the other and do the same thing on the other side this is not the nicest plastic ever so at this point if you're worried about things snapping let's go ahead and try applying a little bit of heat foreign bring it down to about 200 degrees and I'm going to pick up that Ridge blade we dropped I dropped it's not your fault it's all mine take the blame so let me Heat this up a little bit and the reason I'm doing this is this plastic is very Snappy yeah I am worried that if I just go to cut this I'm going to wind up with a broken housing on my fan so by heating this up I'm actually going to make the plastic easier to cut and it should greatly improve the ease of the step like so there's one Dawn all right let's get this second one you could probably do this without heating up the plastic and that's fine uh don't use an open flame like on camera apologize so basically I got this on 200 degrees I'm just heating it up a little bit so that the plastic is a little bit more meldable and then cut them off perfect okay again probably not a needed step but makes me feel good that's all that matters all right so we did that and we did that we do this next step is to install said fan into the stealth burner and we're also going to need two M3 by sixes that I have no clue where they are so we're going to find those so this is going in like this pretty much exactly the only way that it makes sense to go in um you can see where it's open for the output of the fan and that is where it's going to go again I'm going to make sure I do not Crush any of the wiring I've already put in place I am going to put in the side that has the retaining clip first and then I am going to snap it in like so and that seems to have worked cool yeah all right yeah I get nothing all right so we have that now and I need those screws what do we need again we need some M3 by sixes M3 by sixes are screws I don't use often over here I got they have three by sixes do I have those in titanium did I order m3x6 and titanium it would not surprise me I'm trying to switch out as many of the screws on this spell for I did look at me go as many screws as possible on the stealth burner build with lighter weight titanium ones save those grams I think those are right yeah those are right and three by six so these are basically just going to pressure hold the uh the fan in place like so and do be mindful that they are screwed in the plastic so don't uh don't push it never you should never over screw go I feel that fan actually pulling down a little bit right into place where it wants to be slash needs to be and I'm just going to we'll call it sweaty finger tighten into place that and now we have our part cooling fan and our hotend cooling fan in place awesome all right so that's a great place to kind of cut this one off right now if you did enjoy this video go ahead and hit that like button hit that subscribe button and join me for the rest of this part of the build the stealth burner with some extras on it and the rest of the printer itself lots of additional extras coming up so um I'm having a blast building this and hopefully you are too if you're not you should order one you should build one sell Source it order it whoever you want to again got my parts from kb3d um yeah so leave me a comment if you have any questions or if you have a comment and um I'll see you next time

Channel: Build It Basement

Views: 9,612

Keywords: Voron, Voron 2.4, Voron Printer, Voron 3D Printer, kit, build, help, how to, 3d, printer, core, xy, stealthburner, steath burner, voron 2.4 r2, voron design, voron 2.4, voron 2, voron, best printer, what the best 3d printer, how to make a 3d printer, how to build a 3d printer, help voron 2.4, help stealth burner, 3do, 3do camera, 3do nozzle, 3do nozzel, rainbow barf, unicorn rainbow, rapido, rapido stealthburner, titanium, backers, ramas, ldo, ldo kit, kb-3d, kb3d, linneo, ABS, abs plastic

Id: BmiheJzFi7o

Length: 49min 16sec (2956 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 02 2023