Panettone: The ChefSteps one-day recipe for this Italian holiday bread

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[Music] upside down bread aka panettone panty tony when done right is like brioche meets fruit bread had a baby with a cloud [Music] it's buttery it's rich it's fruity so fluffy and so light and so airy it's amazing [Music] do they look upside down from your angle i can't wait to talk about why they're upside down when are we gonna get to that part everything we're going to walk through with getting our perfect panettone is all about eating air in there and getting air and more air and more and more and fluffier and fluffier and fluffier it's the only baked good i can think of that gets bigger after it's baked [Music] so panettone is a pretty classic italian bread you usually only see it around the holidays a really good panettone can take days to make you have a day just to make the dough a couple days for fermentation the like benchmark out there is roy [Music] all he does is panettone he's the master at it so what we're going to try to do is try to get as close as we can to say that gold standard panettone in less than a day i think we can do it in fact i know we can do it it's gonna be pretty darn good [Music] this is the roy panettone and you can see it looks like a cute little loaf of bread really pretty like if you make brioche and this happens to be brioche you're like oh dang it like my brush has all these holes in it but this is what we want with panatoni so the way we're going to ferment it is about getting air into it the way we're going to fold it and knead it is about capturing trapping air into it the way we're going to bake it is about holding on to that air this is where the upside down part comes in so it's all those things combined that are going to give us the fluffiest lightest bread upside down bread [Music] if you don't have a sourdough you can learn how to make one of chef steps i feel like a lot of folks watching this video probably have a sourdough or have a friend with sourdough so it's over to starter so you should be fine that's a nice happy starter tangy okay buttermilk a lot of recipes you'll see for penetrating a lot of breads just use water present concept for sure water is gonna be better at developing gluten which does hold on to moisture and help develop gluten a little bit better but i want that kind of like tart acidicness too a little bit of the flour yeast i'm just going to give it a little mix here this is going to jump start our whole dough hydrate a little bit of the flour feed some of the yeast feed the sourdough starter that buttermilk and that sourdough is like already tangy and flavorful off to a good start you really just want to make sure the yeast is hydrated make sure it's dissolved so right now it's just kind of like a shaggy tough dough in another hour so it's gonna start to fluff up and get puffy on you which is which is what we're looking for let's see what it looks like so this is what you want it to look like you can let this part hang out too long you know just like a sourdough bread if you let it hang out too long it's going to die on you you want to catch it when it's like at its puffiest so you can see this same exact guy in about an hour or so it's gonna look like this maybe even like 30 minutes really depends on the temperature [Music] all right part one we're off to a good start we've got our vega going nice and puffy uh next step is we're just gonna finish the dough so more flour egg yolks egg yolks egg yolk egg yolks this is where kind of the brioche part of it comes in egg yolks are emulsifier they're also going to help make the bread just a little bit more rich it's going to what's going to help us hold on to a lot of that butter so you can see it's nice and fluffy like this is like really really nice stuff [Music] so yolks go in you want a nice high protein like a really fine high protein bread flour you need a lot of protein to hold on to all the fat all the butter all the egg yolks all the sugar this is like the structure of our entire dough here so this is where we start to really develop gluten hydrate the gluten develop the gluten that's what's going to hold on to all that air from here we're just kind of adding you know what you call inclusions or modifiers like sugar's going to tenderize it butter is going to tenderize it so i don't add sugar and i don't have butter it can be like tough as like a baguette almost you know really really chewy really really tough some recipes you can just add everything into the bowl all at once one you'd like to smash up your fruit so just end up getting pureed into there instead of having like specks so working backwards from that you add the garnish last the more moisture we have right now for the flour that's also giving the gluten a jump start to develop so if i start adding butter and sugar that immediately starts shortening the gluten and getting in the way the gluten from developing generally salts can add flavor but it's going to the yeast so you wait till the end right we have no salt we're not going to taste even the aromas that much [Music] boom gotta make sure you're scraping down your dough scraping down the bowls making sure it's all getting mixed in i might even need a wood a wood spoon for that it's a little stiffer oh yeah getting sticky that's good that good stretch not quite there that's like gluten starting to wake up so this is one of those steps where if you wanted really stretchy really elastic dough this is where you kind of want to wait and hang out too like you could let this sit you know for several hours and that gluten is just going to develop even further which is going to be good because it's going to hold on to a more elastic bubble but there's a fine line between going too long and i want a pantone loaf today remember we're going to try to get this done today so let's keep going with the mixing looking really good though for this recipe i'd stay away from adding a bunch of like vanilla extract it's just more alcohol and that's just going to make your bread even more tender than it needs to be and it's going to take away from bubbles that are going to be trying to hold onto air so we're using fresh vanilla salt's no-brainer so salt goes in sugar is going gonna tenderize the dough it's gonna make it sweeter obviously but it's also gonna tenderize it sugar goes in want some fresh vanilla bean just because we like it if you can't get it get vanilla paste get ground vanilla get vanilla powder [Music] there's nothing like vanilla man i'm going to mix this up a little bit then we'll get into our essential oils i'm just going to give the sugar and vanilla and salt a head start in the dough [Music] yep well that's because the sugar the sugar is dissolving it's becoming liquid and it's softening and shortening up the dough we love essential oils essential oils are freaking amazing one of the reasons they're amazing is because of super super concentrated flavors from some of your favorite like fruits and herbs and spices right i'm gonna guess i have no idea but it took hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of pounds of red mandarins to make this bottle you store it in a dark bottle in your fridge it'll last very very long time like years so very strong we're gonna add red mandarin oil this is where sensitive scales are really handy that's 1.8 grams that goes in that's insane super super aromatic you don't want to do is take a bunch of red mandarin and then stick it into the lemon or stick it in the mint one you never want to do that that's how you wreck a a good batch of dough or good weekend of cooking lemon essential oil that's point four [Music] strong stuff a lot of flavor so we're on our way we're pretty much like have a brioche almost we're about to add butter in just a minute but the dough is starting to look quite a bit different right the gluten is relaxing and hydrating the sugar is thinning it out essential oils are alcohol oil so they're actually kind of enriching the dough and slacking out the dough too looking real pretty you can see how shiny smooth it is it's ready for butter we just throw our butter in right off the bat it's not you're just gonna mix and mix and mix and mix and mix and make some mix mix mix and it's never gonna emulsify so you need to get that development of the gluten first which you can see we have here when it starts to get ribbony stretchy smooth then you can really start to emulsify the butter in you really want to be careful with it too you do like a knob at a time it'll come back together as like one elastic dough when it's ready you're starting to throw butter in there you're shortening the gluten and not only that it's like if it wraps around a ball of dough now that one ball of dough is covered in butter it's not mixing with the other one pretty it's actually pretty obvious when you start looking at it but at the end of the day you've got to get all our butter in there and it should look like a nice smooth cohesive dough that's when you know you've got it it shouldn't look shredded or torn or anything like that the other thing too is this butter's uh room temp ice-cold butter is not going to really mix in that well and you don't want to melt it last little chunk let's stop for a second we're not quite there yet and one of the things you know that you're not there because the sides of the mixer still have a lot of dough have a lot of grease on them so i'm going to scrape this down [Music] just [Music] we'll keep mixing we're pretty much there but [Music] cool all right check it out look at this super elastic soft smooth well on our way to some really nice pan attendant this is good stuff [Music] before i throw my uh bits in there as i'll let it relax just for a second because if i throw them in right now it's so tense the gluten that it's just gonna kind of resist the little fruits and stuff so i'll let it chill for maybe just a minute we're gonna add that like fruit bread part right red fruit fruit bread here's where all the candies come in you can pretty much add anything you want if you stick to about like 20 or so volume of the dough and whatever you're putting in super low moisture even though it's all tender and chewy and sticky the candied orange super low moisture these cherries even though they're wet with alcohol technically it's low moisture right it's just made soft with sugar those things go in you mix it up and you're done let's do it whoa those are good it's not really a right or wrong way to do this just get it in there [Music] [Music] this is one part i think folks may goof up it's not like adding chocolate chips to cookie dough where you're like oh just put it in and barely mix it if i stop right here you'll see all these bits of fruit are just falling they're not sticking it's still kind of rinsing off some of the oils rinsing off some of the alcohol on the fruit so i want to keep going until they're really embedded in there and they're really holding on to it and that'll be kind of the difference of when i cut open my panettone in the end all the fruits kind of like sunk to the bottom or it's on the edges versus evenly dispersed too so i want to make sure that fruit gets nice and sticky into the dough [Music] [Applause] god smells so good i'll take a pause look at it still not quite there this is like perfect exactly what we're looking for here see all this fine gluten film like that that's lovely oh my god it looks like laffy taffy is that it's like fruit bread laffy taffy so good on to the bulk fermentation [Music] so it's gonna relax it's gonna hang out the gluten is gonna keep developing it's going to become a little bit more tender and relaxed and that's going to allow us to get a couple folds in there trap some air it is kind of proofing as well you know it's going to come out a lot bigger softer airier more tender depends on how cold how warm it's gonna relax slack out and like double in volume so i'm gonna keep this covered wrap it up sit on the counter that's it [Music] all right we are getting close here beautiful dough beautiful bulk fermentation should be nice and soft see it starts to slack out you see the bottom of it got some nice big air bubbles in there that's a happy dough you can if you really wanted to pick it up go straight in the mold that's gonna be great but um what i found and this is part of like trying to get a really great panettone in a day um i'm gonna put it out on some smooth surface it could be a big sheet pan could be a metal countertop i've got a piece of marble here something smooth not like wood that's gonna suck moisture out of it and then we're going to just get a couple folds try to trap some air in let it rest a couple more try to chop some air in then we're going to go to the mold then we're going to bake this is just what i like to use you can use olive oil whatever you want i'm even gonna hit that guy your hands are gonna get oily it's good it's fine [Music] look at that see that's good whoa see those bubbles that's a good sign all this bubble so nice couldn't be happier with this dough so far oily hands and yeah i'm going to lose some bubbles here at first but we'll actually win overall if we do this fold right so one thing to keep in mind you're not kneading because you'll just bang out more bubbles than you'll keep but if i stretch the dough a little bit make sure it's relaxed fold the dough over i'll capture even more bubbles if you really want you can rotate it a bit if you find that the dough is kind of tightening up leave it alone it should really want to be folded and want to be stretched hit this guy hit this guy and i'll just let it hang out for a few minutes and all i'm doing right now is letting the gluten relax it might come apart a little bit that's fine and i'm just going to repeat this process two three times if i'm kneading the dome squeezing the bubbles out if i just laying the dough on top i'm going to kind of you know squeegee the air out but what you want to do is lay the next layer on and capture it like a little pillow right you'll see it's relaxed a bit and it'll be even easier to fold again [Music] so just repeat this process two to four times depending on how much air you feel like you can get in the dough but i think this one's looking so good i'll stop it too [Music] all right that's a pretty thing i feel like it wouldn't be panatona without these giant paper molds you can go from dough to bake to serving slice through the mold even one thing you have to consider maybe at this stage is how i'm gonna go from the oven to pretty much immediately upside down somewhere you can stab skewers like this through the bottom of the mold that way when it comes out of the oven you put these on the backs of chairs on the backs of some buckets or big pots and it hangs upside down right you just got to get it upside down supported by the bottom of the mold however you can do that you can't like put it upside down and set it down because it's going to collapse it doesn't matter if it's right side up or writes it down you want it to hang upside down right like a lot of things you'll bake you'll see it sink as it cools a little bit but if you invert it in enough time it'll stretch out even longer than it was when it first went in the oven so we've got to go from here into the mold a little bit of spray is good helps it slide up the sides a little bit so we're just going to pick this guy up so you can see we're about this high we're going to proof it to about here then we're going to egg wash and put sugar on it and score it then we're going to bake it and it's going to come up to here and hopefully by the time we hang it hang it upside down and set it it'll even add another quarter inch or something this is what we're going for in the end quite a contrast though huh cover it put a bin over it check this out this is what we're going for fresh dough it's like two and a half inches probably at the top now we're proofed and we're about five and a half that height it's all air air more air more air more air so i'm gonna put this guy aside this is gonna hang out for an hour or so so our egg wash here is just like one egg one egg yolk a little water i'm gonna be pretty generous with this egg wash here too a little more moisture like that helps it expand even more so it helps you avoid case hardening case hardening is when the bread goes in it gets too hard and crusty it can't souffle up so you lose your oven spray we've been hunting down all those videos of your panatone roy obviously you're at scale you're not going to score like a million a day when you're in production this technique's dialed in no scoring but he's got a super high hydrated dough high gluten it's slacky but what i found if i'm at home and i'm doing this just with the dough that's consistent easy to work with and again one day right one day i'm just gonna get a little bit of moisture on the egg wash score it you see it starts to open up already that's pressure in the bread it's coming out already belgian pearl sugar it's one of my favorites and they actually make like different flavors of these like you could do like little pink ones raspberry or whatever see it looks like a lot but as this dome kind of like doubles and triples in surface area those little sugar bits are going to pull apart and look like a lot less i'm doing a little bit more than these ones these are pretty modest we're ready for the oven that's it [Music] so this just came out of the oven it's ripping hot so we're going to get it upside down if i just let it sit here you can already start to see it's going to start sinking especially over the next 30 minutes lots of ways to do this you can have your little skewers i'm going to put some fish hooks in here [Music] gentle [Music] gentle [Music] okay i'm gonna be gentle here so right now it's not touching the table not at all but you can see it's actually getting closer and closer and closer and closer i i wouldn't want to hang it right off the bat way high up in the air because there is a potential that this starts to tear like it kind of already is on this side which is okay for now um but if it's too tender it'll just tear off and fall and hit the ground so i'm just putting it right on the table it's where you can get a little support but you can see now it's touching the table so already since we've hung it upside down it's stretched out a half an inch right so that's a good thing so this is set obviously you're going to want to dig in right off the bat but they're just going to collapse like the whole point is getting that air capture in there and if you don't give it time to set up and chill and let those starches gel you're gonna cut into it and it's actually gonna get denser [Music] we're gonna see if it's any good inside here we go [Music] that's that cutting through the mold it's handy to have that mold there oh my god that's not bad that's not bad [Music] check that out not bad not bad not bad not bad i know you said i said you could sub um zest but man you get a good red mandarin essential oil oh my god that smells so good this is actually like pretty darn good version like i'd be very happy with these this is a very very nice look one of the reasons i like it it's got some of these nice loose bubbles but look how they're not just like all in one place too they're still pretty dispersed so it's definitely got some structure to it nice and fluffy [Music] you want to compare to the gold standard roy does a good one but again roy's a pro he's the best in the world this guy you can see which is not my favorite so if you really want to compare let's compare the real one that one oh that's much better much better comparison i would say this is by far better than any non-roy panettone i've ever bought in this store for sure so but you can see how big his bubble structures come structure like lots of light gluten lots of high hydration this one again is a little more brioche again we're looking at like his chocolate one do we have another one where's this other one if this is a fruit one then we don't need another one but let's find out oh that's a good one though dude even a better comparison now we got a fair fight just a reminder like i'm trying to get you as close as you can to one of roy's panatone in like a day pretty darn close pretty pretty darn close i think the only things i'm going to keep chasing um you can see how we've got kind of this like mushrooming thing coming here so if it's blowing out the side that's pressure and expansion that should have been going up so i'm going to work on that i think there's a few things to course correct for that like the dough size humidity in the oven um how and where you're scoring if at all i think the crust on the top so he does a piping to keep it moist um i might move over to a piping man at the end of the day i really can't complain this is like pretty spot on i'm pretty proud of this recipe actually good job matthew [Music] [Music] man that's it that's upside down brad aka pandatoni it's one nice way to still show your love this holiday season bake some
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Channel: ChefSteps
Views: 336,923
Rating: 4.8542376 out of 5
Keywords: panettone, italian bread, holiday, christmas, cooking, holiday food, recipe, panettone recipe, easy panettone, chefsteps, modernist cooking, chefsteps panettone, thisisfromroy, grant crilly, pannetone, pannettone, pannettonne, holiday panettone recipe, baking, baking recipe panettone, how to make panettone, holiday baking, what is panettone
Id: dkz7o2K9vso
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 27min 17sec (1637 seconds)
Published: Wed Dec 09 2020
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