Panasonic Lumix S1| S1R /S1H Training Tutorial Overview

hi my name is Michael Andrew and I'm about to give you a free tutorial on the Panasonic s 1 it should mostly apply to the s 1 R as well this is Panasonic's new full-frame mirrorless camera the viewfinder is ridiculous if you're coming from another system or you're an experienced photographer already check out the table of contents though control F or command F type in your keyword and if we have a chapter marker for it you will be able to jump directly to that part of the video we spend a lot of time putting that together this video is designed to replace the user's manual that came with your camera some people prefer books I am more of a visual learner and like to watch somebody else do it and follow along if you are a beginning or an intermediate photographer it's still new to photography a word of warning I have to give you is this video deals with the camera operation only it's not going to be enough for you to go out and take spectacular images I teach all of my students to see it in your mind's eye this is where the magic happens is in your brain use the camera as an extension and when I first started I was so frustrated that I could see what I wanted to do here I couldn't get those images out of the camera and I spent two years of frustration trying to figure it out and at the end of it I realized there's so much more information to know beyond operating the camera there are the photography basics in composition in lighting now we're dealing with digital files and there's some planning and troubleshooting involved then each of the real world shooting situations have different philosophies of use even the focusing systems from subject to subject are different once I finally started learning the camera I realized that there was a lack of good video training where somebody could just sit down and in a few hours learn their camera system you don't need to read the manual you don't need to read a 500 page book sit down and watch somebody with experience do it and that is where the Panasonic s1 s1 our crash course is coming from I've been doing this for 12 years now full time and I will take you through a known established system of becoming a great photographer if you're interested in that check out the link in the description it'll take you to my blog leave your name and your email and we will reach out to you as soon as it's ready in any event we have a lot of information to cover like a ton so let's get started let's take a look at the external buttons and ports on a panasonic s1 in s1 are the first is the shutter button which has two phases the first is a halfway depression in the second is a full depression which will actually take the picture it's very important to train your finger to feel where that first depression point is it's very soft step down you'll feel it immediately and it's very important to train your finger to know the difference between the half depression in the full depression that will take the picture directly in front of the shutter button we have the front dial I like to call this the primary selector you will notice that it rotates to the left and right on the back far right of our camera we have a rear control dial which I also like to call the secondary selector for a very good reason I will show you later on the far left of the camera we have the mode dial this will allow us to determine how much help the camera will give us when shooting and we also have the video record mode here looking on the top of the camera we have four buttons in an LCD display the LCD will show critical shooting information such as your shutter speed your aperture your ISO things of that nature we are going to be looking at it quite a bit the buttons are going left to right white balance ISO and exposure compensation you will notice that the ISO button is dimpled to give you a tactile reference when looking through the viewfinder the button with a light bulb will illuminate our LCD in some of our rear control buttons in dark situations the power switch is located immediately to the right of the lamp button and we will need to turn this on every time we want to shoot on the front of the camera near the right grip we have three buttons the bottom is the lens release which we must press every time we want to take it lens off above it we have two customizable function buttons which we can determine how they will work in our menu systems by default the second button is a depth of field preview button on the inside of the grip we have an autofocus assist lamp there's a good chance you are going to be shooting with a 24 to 105 but if not notice that many lenses have an auto focus to manual focus switch and in this case an image stabilization switch as well as a lens barrel lock switch just above the logo we have the PC sync terminal which will allow us to connect to a studio strobe by wire at the base of the camera we have a customizable function lever at the base of the mode dial we have the drive modes which tells the camera what to do after we push a shutter button down all the way for example a burst or maybe a timer mode the lvf button is the monitor view finder button which allows us to determine whether the camera is displaying through the EVF or the back monitor or automatically switching when we look into the EVF and by the way the EVF is absolutely spectacular it's the best I've ever seen at the base of the EVF we have the diopter adjustment which will allow us to change the focus very handy if you wear corrective eyewear on the back of the camera in the top right we have a lock switch which will allow us to lock out certain buttons from changing anything should we accidentally bump them we have the playback button which will display images after we take them the monitor tilts up and down in pushing the button on the far left up will allow the monitor to tilt to the right on the right side of the EVF we have the V mode button which will allow for viewfinder magnification and just below and to the right of the EVF we have the start and stop video record button to the right of it we have the auto focus mode lever in the center of which we have the cluster selector button which I will demonstrate later immediately to the right of that we have the auto focus on button which is great for back button focusing in below it we have the joystick which is very handy to navigate menu items or to change our focus selector when looking through the electronic viewfinder below the joystick we have the cue button which will allow us to access our Quick Menu below the cue button we have a large wheel this is the control dial and there are actually several controls built in here in the center we have the menu and set button which allows us to enter the deep menu and it also acts as an inter button on a computer when selecting menu items this control dial also has a rotating wheel and a directional pad which can be used and customized in a number of different ways the cancel button will help us backing out of menu items in the garbage can button will allow us to delete images toggling the display button will control how different sets of information are being displayed under the right grip we have our memory card slots which allows us to store UHS - SD memory card on top and an x QD memory card on the bottom on the far left side of the camera under the gaskets we have our remote terminal microphone and headphone jack USB C terminal for data and charging and a full size HDMI port beneath the camera we have the battery slot in our battery grip pin connector so that's an overview of the camera we've gone over all the buttons and have briefly covered what they do I promise that if you practice the day will come that you will feel you have complete control over your camera and it feels really good to know how to do everything there may come a time when you forget which button does what just come on back we'll go over it again for the rest of this video we will go through most of these settings individually so you know what they are and what they do so there's a couple things I want to show before we get into the actual lessons you'd be surprised how many photographers don't know that this is the front cap from the 24 to 105 under the cap of every lens there should be the filter thread size 77 millimeters that's important on the crash course we're going to be using filters and things of that nature so you'll need to know the size of your lens that's where you look the body cap has a little dimple right here and this is going to tell us where to line it up when we put it back on it can be straighting if you lose track of that and we're gonna take that off beautiful sensor by the way every lens should have a red dot and that red dot is going to line up here I don't like to leave this exposed you know for as short as possible and then we're gonna rotate it until it clicks now every time we take the lens off we're gonna have to push down and hold that bottom button to unlock it make sure you hear it click all the way before you start shooting when we're talking about the memory cards it's important to note that it's not just a matter of sliding this lever down we actually have to push back towards the back of the camera on the top we have our SD memory card slot it's UHS 2 compatible if you're shooting 4k video you can use SD 1 cards the main thing is that it's a class u3 I like these extreme pros they have been very reliable for me haven't had any problems with them and then below it we have an x QD memory card that's really designed for speed this is an incredibly fast card so if you're trying to buffer images quickly and get them written to the memory card this one's going to be blazingly fast just a couple basics before we get into the main lesson is if this is your first camera and there are some of you this is or if you're coming from another camera system that you're familiar with take a moment to feel how soft that halfway shutter button depression is to attain focus lock and pushing down all the way you don't get a click or anything it's almost like hey where's the click another thing I want to point out is that the mode dial has a center post that must be depressed when we're rotating the dial when we're not pushing it it remains locked and this is by default it's a very nice design to prevent little bump itches and things of that nature obviously we're going to need to turn the camera on if you haven't gotten already grab your camera and let's walk through this together I want to demonstrate how to navigate around through the camera before we get into our mode lesson this button here on the bottom it says display get into the habit of toggling through that so you can see different sets of information being displayed on our back monitor and you can expect to see something similar in your viewfinder in the bottom left hand corner this M is the mode that we are shooting on this is our meteringmode this symbol will be talking about that later but right here these guys are very important this is your shutter speed and the number that has the F in front of it is your aperture plus minus this is our exposure compensation these are our memory cards in terms of how they're being used number of shots remaining battery life image stabilization this is the focusing cluster we're using this is our focusing mode this is the quality type and these are our picture styles which we'll be talking a little bit about each of these separately as I push the Display button and this is obviously a level this is our side to side level on the outside and if we were to tilt the camera up or down we could see those two tick marks in the center changing if I push the Display button all that goes away as I continue to toggle it we get this black information screen so lots of info in here covering it real quick this is our mode shutter speed aperture this is our Wi-Fi connection battery life our ISO exposure compensation flash exposure compensation those are our drive modes are focusing modes focusing clusters our quality aspect ratio hlg indicator custom functions there are picture controls auto white balance auto dynamic range metering modes this is a little confusing number one is our XQD card slot even though it's listed on the top and then the one with the corner missing is our SD card slot and the reason we know this is that if you open up the door and you look it'll it'll actually have a number next to it so this is not top to bottom this is one on the bottom two on the top something that's cool about the black screen is this is mostly touch interactive so we can touch on our shutter speed and we can touch and drag a shutter speed you'll notice that the display is staying the same we can touch and drag our aperture we can touch and drag our exposure compensation see how it's getting bright and brighter and darker we can touch and drag our ISO which is nice auto ISO is great we can also control a lot of these things with the dedicated button so as we're shooting we have you know our white balance button that'll take the straight into the menu and this can even apply as looking through the viewfinder so this icon the crescent wheel with a bottom half this is our rear control wheel so we can control through our different auto white balances sometimes you'll see a crescent wheel on the top that is our front control wheel come back some of these have dedicated controls such as the focusing mode wow I didn't even touch the screen just got close enough to it and kind of went in there but the auto focus mode has its own selector switch here so that's why you can't access it same with the drive modes is that we have a drive mode dedicated drive mode control wheel here our quality and come in here and use joystick the directional pad we can use at the front or the rear control wheel so there's multiple options depending on how you like to navigate pushing set will get us out of the menu we can also tap on the icon itself there are tons of customizations lots of information and so don't feel overwhelmed this is turning the back display off and then we're back to our regular shooting display something I need to point out before we get into the exposure lessons is that we need to make sure that our constant preview is turned to on by default when you get this it's going to be turned off and it'll appear that you have the correct exposure and when you push that shutter button halfway down if you don't you will see red values for your shutter speed and aperture what this is saying is this is underexposed a lot so what we want to do is to be able to preview the image before we take it and that is found under the settings tab so blew camera back icon display one constant preview we're going to turn this to on once we do that now we get an exposure preview my advice would be to leave this on all the time with the exception of shooting in a studio because it's going to allow us to see how bright or dark our images are going to be so that's critically important before we start this lesson the mode dial up here on the top where the red ring is if you push and hold that down there is a mode on there that says I a that is your intelligent automatic mode and you'll notice that when you're in this setting the camera is pretty much doing everything for you I refer to this as the dummy mode and I always tell my students try not to shoot in this mode you spend a lot of money on this camera go through the trouble of you know struggling to learn shutter speed and aperture control it won't take that long and you're going to have mastery over your camera and do some amazing things the mode dial to me what this does is it allows us to tell the camera how much and what type of help we want it to give us and there are really only four modes that I would emphasize which are the P a s and M modes and the easiest way for me to explain how each of these modes work is to start off with the aperture priority mode and this will be designated with a letter A in the bottom left hand corner in the aperture priority mode we determine the aperture in the camera determines the shutter speed the aperture is the opening of the lens now when we did the button overview I was referring to the front button as the primary selector and if you take your index finger and you hold it straight up it's the number one primary your primary selector is going to change the primary function of the mode you're shooting in so if you're in the aperture priority mode you're numero uno is going to change you guessed it your aperture so as I hold the camera and I rotate that front control wheel we get this yellow indicator designating that changing the aperture so that's important in and of itself is to know how to change these settings something you should be aware of is that as I am changing the setting I'm making the aperture smaller and smaller we talk about aperture sizes and I give you a crash course on photography on the s-1 s1r crash course but as I am making the aperture sizes smaller you'll notice that the exposure isn't changing so that word exposure can be intimidating it really means how much light how much brightness is entering the camera and those are really controlled by two things our aperture and we can't really see right now but our shutter speed aperture is the size of the opening shutter speed is how long it's open for we have another control referred to as ISO which helps us add gain to the signal it's not clean light it's an electric signal boost that we give but that also plays into brightness with this in mind the question you should be asking yourself if I'm changing the diameter of the opening of the lens how comes the exposure preview isn't changing okay that's impossible something else has to be happening and this is what's going on in aperture priority mode is that the camera is changing the shutter speed so if we tap the shutter button we get a temporary view of our shutter speed so as I am closing that diameter smaller and smaller we're getting a longer and longer shutter speeds and if I open it up in the other direction I'm gonna bump up my ISOs just to demonstrate this a little bit better you can see depending on which direction we go the shutter speed is changing so why is this happening well the cameras trying to get an even exposure for us and all we're telling you is hey use this aperture you do the rest the camera says okay I got you professional shooters will use aperture priority mode in changing light conditions they'll dial in their aperture and then let the camera do the rest when I shot weddings did this all the time we'd be in a dark church we'd be moving to a lobby and then outside into the limo within 15 seconds in in those 15 seconds I'm also worrying about where I'm stepping I don't want to trip over thing here comes the bride and the groom you're trying to compose them and it's just something else I don't want to have to worry about the shutter speed so there are situations aperture priority is absolutely fine to shoot even as a pro I know a lot of sports photographers who prefer to shoot an aperture priority why because sometimes lighting conditions change so the question you should have at this point is if changing the aperture makes the camera change of shutter speed how do we change the brightness that's a very good question that's what we're gonna talk about right now that is referred to as exposure compensation so exposure compensation is designated with this little zero right here touch the screen there it has a little plus minus next to it the way we activate our exposure compensation is there's a button right up here top right it's to the right of ISO button is that when we push that we get the exposure compensation bracket and you'll notice that it has negative on the left positive on the right and you guessed it positive is brighter negative is darker so if you're taking a picture and it's a little too dark come into exposure compensation pushing right here and I'm gonna add this plus one take a picture well maybe that's not bright enough okay no problem we'll come in here you can see we have numerous ways to change we're at +2 now and if I was to compare those images on playback we get a playback I kind of haven't set the date and time on the camera and you can see that one image is brighter than the other if this is the only thing that you take from this lesson how to change your image brightness you are well on your way to controlling your camera what if the opposite is true you take a picture it's too bright we want to make it darker no problem we're gonna go in the opposite direction negative one okay picture now it's darker you can see with this red indicator when it's writing to the memory card so that is the heart of the matter and I want to take you a little bit deeper this is the kind of stuff that I give you on the crash course is the philosophy of use and what's going on I'm not going to do a lot of it in this video but I just want to demonstrate if you take your hand tap the shutter button put our hand in front of the camera watch what happens to the shutter speed as the light is changing the shutter speed is changing so what's happening is the camera is constantly measuring how much light is entering into the camera and it's making those adjustments accordingly something else I want to demonstrate is how exposure compensation works is that you'll notice at the zero mark when I have a shutter speed of f/4 the shutter speed this is a fraction one 250th of a second I want you to watch what happens when we go to +1 - the shutter speed 1 125th of a second so what's happening here is that the camera is adding twice as much light for every one indicator on this exposure compensation bar so each one of these is this it's referred to as a stop a stop is an arbitrary measure of light and so what this means is when we add one stop we're adding twice the amount of light so if we were to do the math at zero it was 1 250th of a second at plus 1 it's 1 125th of a second and mathematically we can prove that it's twice as much light take a guess if we were to go up to +2 what do you think the shutter speed would be yeah about 60 there it is if we were to go to plus 3 what do you think it would be yeah if you said 30 about 30 you're right there it is what about I don't know plus 4 so you get the idea we're at 15 and this also works in the opposite direction what is twice as fast as 1 250th of a second well it's right there five hundredths one one thousandth so that is how the math of the fractions work is that we're adding twice the amount of light we'd have to do do a full stop we can do 1/3 we can do 2/3 and that is how exposure compensation works something that I do depending on the light that I'm shooting in is I will sneak a peek at my shutter speed if you are shooting with long shutter speeds very slow shutter speeds you know longer than one sixtieth of a second in your hand holding the camera there's a good chance you're going to get motion blur and your pictures are going to be blurry and if you're shooting fast-moving subjects you're going to need a much faster shutter speed maybe one five hundredth or one one thousandth of a second depending on how fast the subject is moving so I am constantly sneaking a peek over here and when my shutter speed is not enough what I will do is I will bump up my ISO so you'll notice that as we increase the ISO the shutter speed that the camera is affording is getting faster so the question may be why not just shoot on crazy high ISO like 50 1200 I'll show you I want to take a picture there's 50 1200 and I'm going to show you that maybe like 800 it's not like that what happens is the camera is going to add this boost right so if we were to play back the image and zoom in you can see it's a pretty clean image even at ISO 800 right so what about the image before that and we were to zoom in it's kind of hard to see on this monitor but I can totally see the grain see how grainy that is and I'm gonna jump back to the one before it see how clean that is so that's the trade-off with very high ISO is is that as you add ISO it's going to add grain to your image and so we want to use the most minimal ISO that we can I like to keep it in the 1600 to 3200 ballpark let's take a look at shutter priority designated with s in this mode it's the opposite we designate the shutter speed and you guessed it the camera is going to change the aperture if we use slower shutter speeds you can see the camera is making a smaller aperture given by this number and if we decide to use really fast shutter speeds uh-oh something's going on here we get this red indicator again when you see that what the camera is saying is that it has run into the physical limit of the lens and it cannot open it more wide in order to get an even exposure if we want to try to get that even exposure it's not gonna happen the camera is not happy so when you see this what would you do that's right if you saw this you would bump up your ISO to the point where the camera is satisfied it's gonna let us take that picture without giving the warning with this in mind can we do exposure compensation with shredder priority mode absolutely we can get the indicator just above here you can see the aperture changing as we move up and down as we go higher and higher it's not going to like that and so we're back to that square one that is how we use exposure compensation with shutter priority mode I personally do not use shutter priority mode at all never I almost always use aperture priority in manual mode and that's about it let's talk about program mode real quick as designated with P now in this situation we don't have anything we don't have a shutter speed or aperture to control and I'm changing stuff and it looks like nothing's happening right if we tap the shutter button what happens oh we are changing some things and it's both the aperture and the shutter speed so what happens in the program mode is that we're able to select different combinations of apertures and shutter speeds if we really wanted to and the most common mistake that I see with this is people start shooting something like this f-22 with one fifteenth of a second and what happens is all the pictures are blurring they're like what's going on so it does take some awareness if you're using the P mode to understand you know what what is the camera doing with these combinations just keep in mind again that shutter speed should be one sixtieth maybe one one hundredth or one two hundredth you know if you're shooting outdoors at least there are sometimes program mode can be used professionally it has more to do with the flash so when you put a flash on the camera it changes some of the cameras behavior we want it to be a certain shutter speed and it can happen automatically but for the most part I don't use p mode and if you were my best friend and I was giving you lessons I would say don't even don't even start there I want you to focus on aperture priority let's talk about the manual mode very interesting now we can see we're getting this banding slow banding on the monitor this has to do with the myth sync between the LED lights I'm using and the refresh rate of the back monitor which is I think it's 160 if it's refreshing it right now so once it's dialed in correctly we're good to go manual mode we dial in the shutter speed and the aperture and the ISO this is where we're telling the camera what to do with all those settings and this is where I like to use the primary control wheel as being the aperture once this is set we can also dial in the shutter speed with the rear control wheel the secondary setting that's the way I like to teach my students and you'll notice something here that when we push the exposure compensation button up here nothing happens it says mm-mm to me means metering mode it's metering how much light is coming into the camera it's manual metering so the camera is now a light meter and this can be proven by taking our hand and basically covering the lens and it goes down to negative 3 so there is no exposure compensation in manual mode the metering bar now becomes just a light meter and it's just telling us how close we are to an even exposure or not manual mode I personally use it when I have enough time if I have enough time I prefer manual because I can dial in everything exactly the way I want it and take the picture if I'm short on time I typically go aperture priority mode strobe shooting almost always on manual mode as well one feature we need to cover is something called auto ISO if we turn down our ISO as low as it'll go you can see this feature right here auto ISO turns ISO control over to the camera and there are some situations where this is a great feature for example if you're shooting indoor sports and you have a set shutter speed that you want maybe you want one 500th of a second and you want the specific aperture and the lighting conditions might change a little bit well the ISO is now turned over to the camera so there are these fluctuations in lighting you can see the ISOs changing right here the camera will take over and change the ISO for us the problem with this is obviously we don't know what those ISO settings are going to be and we leave it up to the camera and with very high ISOs you get grain it's just another tool in the toolbox so to speak very common for indoor sports photographers to sometimes turn that on that's where I would use it and that is auto ISO but most the time I'm dialing in my ISO manually for whatever setting it is in any event that was a quick overview of the mode dial we talked about exposure preview we talked about exposure compensation how to make it brighter I've talked about each of the modes recommended some certain settings we'll talk about the C 1 C 2 and C 3 in the video mode a little bit later on when we're talking about the cameras focusing systems they can be very complex and very intimidating and I want you to think of this in terms of the how the when and the where the camera focuses how when and where this makes it super simple the default on most cameras when you pull them out of the box how does the camera focus halfway shutter button depression so when we push the shutter button halfway down it engages the cameras focusing systems pushing it down all the way takes the picture it's all there is to it next comes the when the camera is focusing and this is controlled by the cameras focusing modes there's three of them we can see it indicated on our focusing mode lever and we're gonna turn this over to AFS we even get an indicator right here near the top middle part of the screen AFS stands for autofocus single what this means that the camera is going to focus one time in when we hold the shutter button halfway down it is not going to change so there's our focusing target I'm pushing the shutter button halfway down we get a focusing lock we hear a beep we get this little green dot in the bottom left hand corner and as we rotate the camera focal plane will not change this is a technique referred to as recomposing it is a very fast and easy way to get a focus lock and then change how we're framing up the image every photographer should know how to do it we'll go over it in the crash course but the heart of the matter here is that auto focus signal is a one time focus next we have auto focus continuous which when we push a shutter button halfway down we get that beep again and we get the dot but the difference now is that the camera is focusing over and over and over again it is a continual auto focus that means doesn't stop as long as we were pushing that shutter button halfway down the camera is searching for something to get focus on this is ideal for moving subjects kids that run around or birds in flight or maybe cars or athletes motorcycles things of that nature so if you have a moving subject we want auto focus continuous when we move our focus lever to MF that stands for manual focus and you can see as soon as I flip that over we're getting this blue indicator and as I double tap on the screen you can see I can zoom in a little bit see that when we zoom in we also get the crescent moons so we can further magnify what we're seeing we can control that magnification view by pushing up or down it's kind of hard to see but the peaking is there and we have fine control using the front control wheel to zoom in even further it's a very handy focusing tool but this blue outline that we're seeing is referred to as focus peaking and I'll show you how that is controlled a little bit later in the focusing mode the camera is relying on us to dial in precise focus using the focus ring in the front of the camera we can also access manual focus from our lens barrel switch that points to af/mf flipping that over you can see that we're now jumping into manual focus we get this indicator there you saw it basically told us to push our cluster button and we can continue to push it to zoom in so to magnify look how close we're getting something that's very interesting about the s1 is that even though the lens barrel switch is pointing to MF we have an autofocus option here which means that we can focus autofocus when we're in manual focus so that's very nice and we also get the the picture-in-picture or the full zoom or we can exit lots of powerful manual focusing tools I'm going to flip the switch back forward and we're ready in our regular shooting mode so there are a couple other ways we can focus as well is that just by touching on the screen we can focus depending on the focusing mode that we're in let's pick a single square we're going to talk about clusters so we've talked about the how we've talked about the wind now we are going to talk about the where this has to do with the cameras focusing clusters I like to think of the clusters as different ways to select the total focusing squares we have available to us they are accessed by pressing the cluster button right here and I also want to demonstrate see all these options we can be super confusing this guy right here one area this is the one I tend to use the most as you look through the viewfinder it's going to be pretty important to get second-nature to change using the joystick I'm left eye dominant and I shoot all cameras with the joystick one I can however remember this is a touch monitor we can touch on the screen to change our focus if we're not looking through the viewfinder see that how fast and easy that is there are a few other things I need to show you did you see what I just did there if you push the joystick into the camera body it's going to jump back to center if you push it a second time it's going to jump to the last place you had it when the orange box appears we also get the option to change the size of our single square which can be really big or pretty small the single square option is very diverse you can use it in lots of different ways it's the most preferred one that I have if I'm just generally shooting however all this said we have a number of other clusters I want to demonstrate real quick when we're in the autofocus single mode we also have something referred to as pin point and you're going to see this AF area drop-down where we can basically determine where we're aiming and this is a very small pin point but pin point is more precise if you're a macro photographer you need to get a really really tight focus area you can do so using pin point and then we start getting into some of these other modes one area plus and if you notice the cluster itself is that we have a single box you can't change it as much but we also have this area surrounding it and what this means is that the camera is going to primarily look in the center box and then secondarily look around it sometimes this is good for certain kinds of sports and if you're tracking a moving subject that you're having a hard time keeping in that center focusing Square the camera will look for an area of contrast outside of it we get our oval zone which is cool because we can select the different size you'll notice our back Crescent wheel so we can move this around determining the shape of what it is we want to use as our focusing Square we can pick a position once it's set we hit set and we can move that cluster around just like as we would a single square and see where the cameras looking very nice when we come into the zone vertical horizontal is just what it sounds like we can select a focusing line that is horizontal or standing up if we come into the AF area rotating the back control wheel will determine how wide it is pushing up or to the right on our directional pad will flip it it's kind of one of these things that it wants you to do the opposite of where you're going if you want to go straight you got to push up and if you want to go up you got to push to the side but this is going to allow us to have a focusing cluster in a vertical or horizontal aspect very interesting Panasonic's the only one that I know of that it has this particular type of feature we also have the 225 area and there is a way to customize this an auto focus continuous for the sake of time generally speaking this is going to allow the camera to look for the area of contrast across the frame it's going to find something and lock on to it pretty much an easier focusing cluster if you're intimidated it doesn't always get it right keep that in mind see there it seems to be working okay now next we have our tracking mode which allows us to designate what we want the camera to lock on to so we get a different box it's kind of hard to see it is like a box with a criss cross through it single focus no no big deal let's flip it over to continuous and now what happens is that as we move the camera you can see that the focusing Square is tracking the subject which shows it's having a harder time on the blinds so we need some contrast for the camera to lock on to and that is a tracking mode it's going to depend on your subject matter sometimes it works pretty well sometimes it's not going to work at all when you have lots of contrasts and lots of moving subjects it can be easy to trick sometimes but in certain cases this can be really great the last focusing cluster we have here is face eye and body detection and interestingly we get an animal detect on what this tells me is that there are different algorithms built into the camera some are designed specifically to look at animal faces I'm going to put a picture up and let me demonstrate this real quick with face detection on you can see that we're even getting these crosshairs where the camera is telling us which eye it's focusing on this works pretty well depending on how close we are even if we zoom out and we're pretty backed up it's still doing a great job and we get our green focus indicator if we touch on something else we can get out of it but it's still saying hey I detect a face here if we use this direct autofocus we're gonna let the camera do most of the heavy lifting for us in terms of focusing and eye detection for portrait photographers especially when we're shooting with a very wide aperture it's absolutely a game-changer back in the day using that's funny back in the day using DSLR cameras we would have these locked focusing squares and you can get a focus lock but if you try to recompose you know shooting wide open you would pull the eye out of focus and that is a problem so I detection is extremely powerful for portrait photographers shooting with a very wide apertures we have covered a lot of information about focusing already we've talked about the how the wind which are the focusing modes we've talked about the wear which are the clusters and there are even a few more little focusing tips I want to give you I'll be demonstrating these in depth on the s1 s1 our crash course in real world shooting situations that's the problem with focusing is how you focus a lot of it depends on your subject matter one technique you should be aware of is that we have this auto focus on button so instead of using a halfway shutter button depression we can use the auto focus on and that will engage the cameras focusing systems so when we're talking about button customizations we can find many of them on the black screen FN if we push this you'll notice that we get diagrams of the camera from the overhead view to the back view it gives us an icon or a name you've got a video recording it's kind of it's kind of hard to see but it's pointing to this the exact specific button in any here we get a tremendous number of options pages of options to customize is route it's insane in the beginning what I would recommend is hold off on this if this is a new camera for you if you're an intermediate photographer or your beginner track customize anything in the beginning because what happens is we customize things and we forget what we changed and we're like how cool my camera is not working but when you become advanced in you know high-end shooting then of course customize it and when we come through this there are pages of buttons even this is just the first page here's the second page we can customize our front buttons we have some virtual function buttons that appear on the back monitor that we can customize they're on the touch screen continue to come down we can customize the direction of our joystick as well as our directional pad huge number of options something you're going to notice is that we don't see the customization for the shutter button so in order to get back button focus we have to go into the deep menu it's under the gear icon shutter AF if we turn this to off that disengages the focusing from the halfway shutter button depression and so when I take my finger and I push it halfway down nothing happens and then we push with our AF on button that is how we do back button focusing I'm going to turn that back on before I forget and lose my mind there are some other pretty cool tools we should talk about it's in the we're in a deep menu obviously but because we're here we'll talk about some of these things real quick read tab so the first two are image quality we get some definitions of what the menu is that we're in and as we come down to the focus we start getting some of these other options such as an auto focus assist lamp in dark situations it'll kick on we have focus peaking and we can come in and determine things like how bright or the color or to display when we're shooting autofocus single if we don't like that color look at all the options in here I've never seen so many peaking options before fluorescent green awesome right and so this is where we would control the peaking if we wanted to you know adjust the speed of our one area square we can do that as well Lots there's there's so much information in the menu system we'll cover a lot of it in this video but on the crash course I spend I try to spend an hour it sees you like an hour and a half on all the settings and how to tweak them it's it's really pretty comprehensive but for the sake of time that is how we do back button focus and remove the halfway but oppression is how we customize our piquing adjust our focusing speeds things of that nature so that is our how when and where of focusing let's talk about how our focusing modes change when we are in a video shooting mode so you'll notice as soon as I went to video mode part of the top and part of the bottom got cropped off what's going on okay well that's the aspect ratio sixteen by nine we have full overscan even at 4k which is awesome and we still have access to most of our focusing clusters something that I'm noticing is that there's a pre focus even an auto focus single we should be able just to change the square without it focusing but it's kind of walking in right now I'm not sure if that's right an auto focus single we should be able to move the focusing square around and there's a feature in here that's referred to as continuous AF and so it's like a Prius when we turn that off and we come back out cameras still still pretty focusing an auto focus single typically we should be pushing the shutter button down to designate it but it's not what I'm seeing right now that might be a bug I could be wrong if you are on auto focus continuous then it would be expected for the camera to do the lifting and this is very powerful technique and tool so it looks like we're going to be kind of stuck with AFC or manual we can flip it over to manual and just do our regular manual focusing in auto focus continuous we have some options in the menu that if we turn this on it's like this pre focus I think this is what's going on is we can determine the speed and the sensitivity of this this is something you can tweak if it's not focusing fast enough for you then maybe we'll speed it up a little bit so very interesting I might have some feedback for Panasonic in terms of this we should have the option to change our focusing school on autofocus single without the camera focusing until we push your shutter button out and see it's doing it all by itself if we wanted to go with face detection we could do that as well and so we're on face detection autofocus continuous I can zoom in I can zoom out and the camera should be focusing over and over and over again if I change if I want to focus over here I can I can tap back on to the face and the camera takes over so keep that in mind with autofocus continuous in the video mode the camera is working even though we don't get these green focusing boxes that we're used to let's talk about our drive modes this is what the camera does after we push the shutter button down all the way kind of hard to see it's just below the red ring on our mode dial and we have a single square we have the Roman numerals one two and then two clock icons so what are those all about without coming into the menu there's a lot of things that we would lose track of and not really know but we can designate how these controls work in the first red tab under the camera icon and we have all these different options in here and what this is going to allow us to do is to customize how our drive modes work burst shot 1 & 2 can be determined right here so we have a high-speed burst if we want to change it we can do a medium speed burst or a low speed burst we can also do 6k 4k video recording and so this is where we would customize these 1 & 2 positions if we go a little bit further we have a time-lapse animation feature so we could come in and determine which of the two it'll be and I'll have a lesson on this in the crash course while do a demonstration of shooting you know a sunset or something that's moving so you can see how this works you know shooting interval setting as soon as you turn it on when does it start if you wanted to set a time you could there's tons of options in here how many images in the interval between those images very powerful built-in intervalometer so that is the setting for the second-to-the-last clock icon the last clock icon is the self-timer so we have a 10 second timer a two second timer and then we have a 10 second with three imaging timer so if you're you know shooting family portraits or something and you wanted to make sure that you know everybody had their eyes open that might be an option for you we also have the flicker option under a certain fluorescent and sodium lamps the color changes and come in and turn this on I've noticed that when I do this the camera kind of hesitates a little bit we'll talk about the 4k and 6k photo options pretty impressive amazing powerful stuff post focus multiple exposure to talk about all these on the crash course will have individual lessons for those coming back to the first bracketing tab bracketing is when we tell the camera to change certain exposure or white balance settings between each shot so if we wanted to turn bracketing on we would come in here and we could select whether it would be exposure or focus or white balance some of these are grayed out depending on what focusing mode we're in for example if we were to do exposure bracketing we were given more settings below it and we could determine the exposure values the sequence and whether or not we push a shutter button down each time where the camera does all the shots for us so if we wanted the steps to be three and one thirds or like nope we're gonna change that to one step when I'm shooting bracketed images I typically like three images with two exposure values between each and we're only given one so I would probably shoot five images with one exposure value to cover you know a high dynamic range area if we wanted to cover more we could come up here sequence is the order in terms of even under or over exposure and then we have the ability to determine whether we push shutter button down for each shot or the camera does it for all of them and that's how bracketing works if we didn't want to do you know exposure we could do focus I usually have a lesson on focus bracketing very powerful we tell the camera to change its focus position from shot to shot how many steps how many images and you can use this if you're a macro photographer it's really a great technique to keep it sharp talking about the silent mode turn this on no sound at all now something that's happening and you should be aware of is this so what we see here is we have some artifacts this banding is created from a mismatch of the shutter speed to the Hertz of the LED light I'm shooting in so LED lights this is something that you'll notice silent mode is using an electronic shutter and there's another artifact that if I take a picture while I'm moving in front of my blinds is that the blinds now become slanted this is the jello effect also referred to as a rolling shutter and these are the two artifacts that you can expect to see when shooting with an electronic shutter your camera is not broken the way to solve it is to shoot in mechanical mode and you should be good to go there it is there are some other ways we can access electronic shutter down here shutter type so it's on mechanical we have a complete electronic curtain we have an electronic front curtain which uses an electronic curtain in the beginning and then closes it mechanically most the time I am shooting on mechanical shutter and if I want to shoot in silent mode I can just turn that on shutter delay is kind of what it sounds like it's how much time do you want from the time that you activate actuate the shutter to the time the picture is actually taken so as an example it's just a delay in the shutter if we were to do a 10 second or a four second allows me to get my hand off the camera almost like a quick timer in any event that is a quick run-through of many of the drive settings we have available to us and again I'll be covering a lot of the stuff we didn't on the full crash course we have actual lessons for many of these let's talk about white balance there's a short answer to this and there's a long answer to this the short answer is if you are a pure beginner start off with auto white balance and there's a couple different flavors of it and we have the ability to tweak and adjust them to see should stand for cool the W should stand for warmer if we wanted to adjust we could come in here and tweak to stay away from this for it for now and I would just say stick with your standard auto white balance and shoot what will happen is at some point sooner or later you're going to notice a yellow or a blue cast on your images or something just doesn't look right with the color that would be the time to start considering changing your white balance and in a perfect world you would change to the icon that you were shooting in so if it was sunny you would change it to the Sun icon if it was cloudy or overcast you choose the cloud icon or if you're shooting in the shade it would be the house of the shade if you're shooting in tungsten light it would be this light bulb we have the ability to shoot on a flash and then we have custom white balances I'll demonstrate in a second and then we have four different Kelvin settings so we'll talk about these a little bit and as a side note if you're shooting raw images your data is all there and it's not as important for RAW images to get your white balance set correctly I still do it but if you are shooting JPEG or if you were shooting video this is far more important because we're losing a lot of information that's being thrown away as those JPEG images are being created so the key is keep an eye on the color it's not working choose the icon if you are shooting in mixed lighting conditions like maybe at a wedding and you have some tungsten and fluorescent and maybe a little bit of Sun coming in it can be pretty tricky so the custom white balance allows us to choose something that's pure white it can be a wall it can be a bride's dress you can be a piece of paper and what we're going to do is we're going to push up and we're telling the camera this is white the camera does its thing and you'll notice that the color changed on the on the monitor from what I had it before so mixed lighting conditions very powerful if you're doing video shooting and I'm touching I'm pressing the white balance button on top here as I'm accessing these we can use the Kelvin white balance and we have the ability to adjust our Kelvin white balance by pushing up on our little pad here and the thing that I love about Panasonic is it gives you the icon of different light sources and so what they're saying is if you're shooting in candlelight which is a very yellow type of light you move the slider down until it points at the candles and you're gonna notice it's blue and you're like what is going on well the camera is adding blue color to counterbalance that yellow light lights on the high Kelvin end tend to have more blue light in them and so when we go very high on the Kelvin scale we're adding yellow light and it gives you all these different settings so if you are shooting in daylight balanced you know 5600 Kay the lights I'm shooting in right now are about 52 I think something like that but you can see that the camera is adjusting its color this is the short answer let's talk about our cameras metering modes the easiest way I think to access them is in our black info screen you can see it right here no touch on it we have four different metering modes the name of the metering your mode is given below it so multi metering mode is a general-purpose we have a center weighted mode a spot mode and a highlight way to go to the easiest way for me to explain this is to talk about the spot metering mode first and I am on aperture priority mode up here with my mode dial now that the spot mode is activated and I toggle to my display we notice we get this crosshair and again aperture priority mode watch what happens when the crosshair goes over this headlamp I have the exposure settings are changing so when we talked about the modes and we're talking about exposure compensation I took my hand and I put in front of the camera and showed how the camera settings change the camera is measuring a light that is entering the camera the metering modes determine the patterns that the camera is measuring from in the case of the spot mode it is a very small circle around those crosshairs and we know because when I move it even a little bit here comes the light again so we know there's a certain size to that circle in the middle in terms of the crosshair and that's what spot metering mode does is it just measures lights in the middle and it disregards everything else and so this is the heart of the matter with metering modes if we come into let's say a center-weighted metering mode all we're doing is expanding the area a little bit more so when we get to the extreme sides see if it'll do it not doing it as much maybe we can try to get it on a corner you go there a little bit not really though the idea on the center weighted is that we open up the size of the circle a little bit more if you have something like the Sun and you're shooting portraits this would be more noticeable look at batteries running out multi metering mode is a really good general-purpose metering mode and this is where I recommend that beginners start and then we have the high light weighted which means that the camera is going to adjust exposure based on the brightest subjects in the frame so even if we move this around it shouldn't change anywhere and you can see we get this little symbol down here in the bottom and that is how the metering modes work for the most part in the beginning I like spot metering mode and the multimedia mode to start those two are the ones to go with let's talk about the Q menu real quick this button here when we push or brought into this quick menu and we can customized not only what is in here but the layout of it as well we can obviously we see the rear selector wheel we can select images within we can touch in each menu item in here has the ability to change things so what are these better picture Styles white balance never I so we have some of the adjustments for JPEGs in terms of contrast highlight shadows noise reduction sharpness we have our drive modes we have our aspect ratio and we have our flash modes on the crash course we'll be talking about the TT 685 that is compatible with our Panasonic so I'll demonstrate how to use flash things of that nature there's tons of great information in there if we want to actually change the menu items in the queue menu we would depending on whether it's for photo or video we would come in here we would choose something that we wanted to change maybe we have a button for ISO we don't really want it in our cue menu hit set and we have pages of things we can choose from literally pages and pages so if we wanted to have access to focus peaking or you know maybe silent shutter whatever whatever it is that you need picture quality for video this one's a good one sound recording level adjustment so if you wanted to change you know from video shooting you can do that as well but it really comes down to what you want obviously with time you're going to know which one you want and we can customize the queue menu for both photo as well as video if we wanted to so that is the Q menu how to access it if you didn't want it to be a Q menu you would push and hold that is going to give us some options to even change what that button does and so if you want to use it for whatever it is you just come in here choose it and it change it back tap shutter button so in any event that is the Q menu let's take a look at the deep menu system which can be accessed by pressing the menu button this is going to be a very short overview I know this video is kind of already on the crash course we go through this in pretty great detail anything that's worth knowing we cover and if it's not worth knowing I tell you navigation you'll notice we do have the ability to touch the screen which is great there's some camera systems that still don't the way this is organized is we have our general tabs and then we have pages within each tab and then we have items within each of those pages I like Panasonic's menu systems I think they're more organized and easier to navigate you'll notice that we have a shooting mode which is in red for both Stills and video we have a camera setting which is a blue gear wheel and then we have the basic camera setup and then we have our custom settings and our playback settings for the menu in the first page we're talking about shooting stills image quality is pretty important the photo style those are the recipes that the camera gives instructions to create JPEGs and we can come in here and control which picture style we have we also saw this available in the Q menu we have the ability to save our own but what this is is we can come in and we can change things such as our contrast highlights trying to get more details and highlights shadows saturation hues sharpness and noise reduction so a huge amount of information if you are a beginning or intermediate photographer my recommendation would be just don't mess with it for now as you get more and more advanced you may want to try you know portraits for shooting people or landscapes a lot of videographers the photo styles are super important because it allows them to tweak how the video is being saved and they they can get more out of the video file there's some very cool things that we can do with the s1 and the s-1 are for both Stills and video on in terms of resolution and dynamic range metering modes we talked about our aspect ratio picture quality this is pretty important if you want to shoot in RAW you would come in here and select raw it's going to capture all of the information you can shoot raw edge JPG together jpeg only throws away a lot of info and we don't have the processing latitude we can't you know we lose some of the white balance color some of the highlights and so depending on what you shoot sometimes it's better to shoot raw if you're shooting sports and you're getting thousands of images sometimes it's better to shoot JPEG just really depends picture size we can shoot smaller sizes if we want I recommend sticking with large hlg think of this in terms of high dynamic range and what this does is when we come in here we're basically have the ability to shoot in high dynamic range hlg photos this is a little bit different than using video because we can do this in camera and it's it's basically telling us hey you might want to do this on a recorder but we'll have those lessons on the crash course in terms of the hlg photo feature and there's also a way to record high dynamic range video with an external recorder as well high resolution mode takes advantage of the Ibis we have in our camera where the in body image stabilizer is moving and tilting the sensor to capture eight different images it then takes those images and stitches them together to create a high resolution image we're talking about a hundred and eighty seven megapixels on the s1r ninety-six megapixels on the s1 that's a lot of detail and it saves it as a raw file which is freakin amazing we'll have a full lesson on this on the crash course in here we have some settings where we can come in and shutter delays you know so we don't shake the camera you know when we're pushing it and we have some different motion blurs that we can reduce ideally this is going to be on a tripod with subjects that don't really move as much and then when we're ready to go we can come in here and start it and shoot it to get out we'd press the cue button so very powerful tool if you're looking for high resolution images definitely something to check out long exposure noise reduction anything over a second is a long exposure and this helps reduce some of that noise that appears we have our ISO sensitivity basic eye dynamic range which is a sense of a contrast control again most of these are going to apply to JPEGs vignette is a lens adjustment specifically you're going to see it more on wide-angle lenses in the corners it's a darkening this would clean it up we have a different diffraction compensation that can clean that up it'll be interesting to see what we have lens wise coming out there's only a couple of them available right now and we also have some filter settings if you wanted to come in and play with these I think you're kind of gimmicky so when we see some two by eights telling us the number of pages in here and we can come in I think these are kind of fun maybe to play with you know if you wanted to if you wanted to record an image without the filter you turn that on but lots of different filter sets we talked about a lot of the focusing features focus peaking we'll have a whole lesson on flash in the crash course lots of information in here hopefully we'll have enough time and I'll show you how to connect to your smartphone I did turn that on get some other options in here we talked about the drive modes the bracketing a lot of this stuff we've already covered and that brings us to our video mode video quality pretty important in here is that when we come in here we're given a bunch of options this is our resolution 3840 pixels wide that's 4k here's the number of frames per second we have 4 to 0 8-bit 4 to 0 that's the chroma subsampling I have a video on YouTube that explains it long GOP is group of pictures which means it's an inter frame type of compression we talked about this also on the video we have our data rate and also the audio type 60 frames per second 4k video here's 30 frames per second just 24 we have Full HD at 60 frames per second HD thirty frames per second very important to set your resolution so this is going to happen a lot well we will see menu items that are turned off and you're like what's going on well it wants us to be in video mode I'm gonna stills mode and let's come back in so here's our high speed video and we have the option to choose between 48 60 150 this is a fun one 180 frames per second use it a lot on the jh5 for slow motion when you play it back it's really powerful in fact I use this professionally for a commercial job I had on the gh 5 and will demonstrate this on the crash course is what happens when you shoot at higher frame rates and play it back at regular speed there it is very powerful coming into the record file format here is the high dynamic range so it's saying record HDR video at Evo recorder that supports hybrid log gamma is required so I have a ninja v believe it supports it otherwise you know we have these other options here things of that nature but for the most part I'm usually shooting on mp4 to be honest we have our luminance level luminance values for JPEGs fall between 0 and 255 this is an interesting discussion of itself for now I just leave it word is coming down to the focus we have our focus settings for video I think we talked about some of those we have our sound so if you're recording high-end video definitely get a good microphone definitely display that video and if you want to adjust your levels this is where it can be done I'm not a fan of the audio game because there's this fluctuation and so I like the manual adjustment myself there's a different kinds of limiters in terms of noise cancellation the microphone socket allows us to determine how our microphone port is supplying power so if you have a microphone that needs power it's pretty cool plug it in otherwise we're typically going with mic input lavalier mic that I use a lot or a rode microphone that has its own power you can see we have some other options here probably this is going to work with that additional adapter that fits on top of the camera sound input real-time vs. recording sound and then we have our HDMI recording output so if we're recording to an out an HDMI record or want to turn off the information to get clean HDMI this is where we would do it as you probably know we have ibis in body image stabilization it's very awesome it's so far it seems to be pretty amazing and when we come into this menu item here it's asking if we want electronic stabilization this is something that I recommend leaving turned off because something you can do in post typically and it doesn't look very good in camera from the tests that I've done in the past we have the ability to boost image stabilization this will be a fun thing to test out and you'll notice that a lot of the other options are turned off because those are for I believe stills mode but when we come back out I thought this was very interesting that we can prioritize our ibis for either full frame or aps-c this actually makes a lot of sense because if we're shooting for aps-c video we can prioritize the stabilization I've always seen the warping in the corners so there may be some really nice applications with this it's kind of confusing because we have our video icon and a lot of these options are not available unless we run a stills mode so operation mode it's asking in terms of camera shake what direction if we're panning side to side there's a setting for it for hand-holding in all directions when should I best be activated when it's a halfway shutter button depression that sounds good for photos for me at least and then we have a focal length set possibly for using lenses that are not native for the S mount so we're going to come into the blue gear we'll come to the top here photo style setting is a little confusing in here we have the ability to determine which photo style settings appear and are available to us well there are some other settings that we can turn on we can add effects like sensitivity or white balance to those settings our ISO increments we can change them in one third or one full stop intervals we can turn on extended ISO if we wanted more than 50 1200 iso we'd do it here so in our metering modes if we want to tweak how the results are being calculated we can do so in here by adding sixth stop increments so if you feel like your multimeter in mode is cheating you by two six of an exposure value you can come in here and tweak each of these color space is typically going to be srgb unless you're shooting for magazine and UB Adobe RGB exposure compensation reset has to do with when we use exposure compensation and we turn the camera off do you want the camera to reset for example or do you want it to revert back to where it was and then we get into a lot of the focusing stuff a lot of great focusing tools when we are using auto focus single or continuous do you want it to focus or do you want it to release sometimes sport shooters prefer the release for auto focus continuous when we are shooting in a horizontal plane versus the vertical plane do you want the focusing squares to jump back and forth between those two modes when you're using it auto focus auto exposure lock hold so when you have this turned on our focus and exposure will be locked when we're activating our focus manual focus assist typically means a punch in or a zoom when these different items are turned on it's going to jump in when we are using manual focus so if we're adjusting you see how it's punching in in manual mode there and so these are just different ways that we can have that assist work so if we were in auto focus and then used manual focus let's turn this back to auto focus single here's auto focus and holding the shutter button halfway down rotate the manual focusing ring punches in so it's it's a way to zoom in you can press the joystick we could have the full display which I think we have turned on already manual focusing guide you want it in feet or meters this is this little setting right here see this guy it tells us where the focal plane is let's go meters if you don't want the focus ring doing anything we can turn that on we can also show and hide the focusing modes man there's so much information in here our pinpoint autofocus setting auto focus scope setting right now it's a picture in a picture we can have it at full display lots of customization talked about the halfway shutter button depression half press shutter means it'll take the picture with a halfway shutter button depression eye sensor auto focus pretty sure that it'll start focusing when you look into the viewfinder we didn't talk about some of these things it probably should real quick is that we have a little sensor up here that when we put the camera to our eye it notices it and it turns on the viewfinder only and we can toggle through those different modes using the lvf button here on the side so that should be EVF only you see it's lighting up in here this is the back screen only this is what I use when I'm using gimbals see it's not turning off now and then we have the sensor there it goes that's what that's all about looped focus frame I kind of like it I think it's worth leaving turned on basically when we have our focusing square it's going to allow us to go from one side to the other and from up bottom when this is turned on we're limited to the side and you have to focus all the way across the other side I think it's a good one this autofocus start point when this is turned on in the autofocus continuous mode with the 2025 point area there's a way to show we're beginning focus starts and so let's turn this on we're in autofocus continuous mode see now we're we have the starting point if I come into here it's set and so that's where it will begin focus when you are using this 25 focus area point so I'm gonna turn this off and we're back to our regular focusing square so it works q menu we've talked about our touch screen settings this is the touch screen when you're looking through the viewfinder this becomes known as the touch tab so right I'd shooters should be able to enjoy this a little bit more than left eyed shooters I just made a video about it so you're you're looking through the viewfinder and you're able to use your your thumb to touch the focusing square and so it's asking where do you want to focus you want it to be exactly on the screen all over or offset so if you're focusing here and be relative I can't use it because I am left eye dominant my nose is right here and that's the eye relief is actually pretty good but on some cameras when this touchpad is active your nose will be touching it so you're gonna have to make the decision based on your nose shape I guess I use the joystick when I'm looking through the viewfinder you know so I leave my touch tab turn to off right I'd shooters you might want to try it out lock lever settings here's a lock lever right here and so when we turn the lock lever on what do we want it to lock if we don't want it locking the joystick we would leave it here all these other things when we flip that over let's come back into our single square here so you can still move this but it's locked out the other items so this basically see it's saying you can't you've locked it out so I if you bump things and you don't you know want to accidentally miss something up that's what the lock lever will do for you FN button set so the setting can work in the play or the record mode so when you're shooting versus playback there it is we talked about it we accessed this on the black screen so lots of ways to customize and we have a virtual button screen it's right here that we can customize to appear on playback suit have these tabs appearing that we can use it's pretty cool so the functional ever setting we have this switch in the front of the camera on the bottom as we hold it left part of the camera this will allow us to determine what function we want to control and if there is more than one feature in there you will be given some options it really depends on what it is if there's only one feature in there it'll just say on or off again this is totally up to you so we've got these three buttons on top of the camera white balance ISO and exposure compensation and this is asking do you want them to be active while pressing and holding down or after pressing and releasing these two are the same except there's an exception for exposure compensation so these next two ISO displayed is asking when the ISO button has been pressed you want to change it with the front or the rear dial we have some different options to choose from same with the exposure compensation do you want to change it with your your front and rear dials up and down if you wanted to go up and down you could just so many options for customization is ridiculous dial set allows us to customize how the dials rotate which directions if you didn't like them changing shutter speed or aperture some of this is can be pretty confusing so again beginning and intermediate photographers I would not mess with it headphone volume depending on what modes were shooting in never seen that on a camera before joystick setting illuminated buttons I like that video record button if you have a remote auto review when you take a picture do you want the picture to be shown immediately or not constant preview this is your exposure prediction we talked about it should be on level gauge I like that but sometimes it gets in the way it just depends if you want it displayed all the time or not we got histograms gridlines so if you wanted a grid and you're shooting it would be worth coming through and checking a lot of this stuff out you know in terms of how much of it you want available Center markers auto focus area displays a good one Live View boost this could be a battery drainer my understanding is in terms of the frame rate the EVF my understanding it will do 120 frames per second I'm gonna turn that off they have monochrome live view we have a night mode if you turn it on everything goes red where do you want the information appearing in your live view display it's both for the live view in the monitor exposure meter focal length displayed when we resuming in and out you guys remember that there it is so a lot of these are displays previews the number of images or videos remaining when we're pressing the display button do you want some of those displays like the black screen at a control panel to not be shown you can turn those off we have blinking highlights if you over expose them in an image let me just do this for you real quick so we're expose something I'll play that image back see how it's blinking that's your high light display zebra pattern to turn your Zebras on it'll show you where your overexposure is I haven't turned up way high we can also come in and set this and turn it down depending on what percentage you want to zebras to show HL view assist has to do with when we're shooting in h LG modes we can determine the appearance of certain gamuts on our monitors or not this is a better lesson to demonstrate with my external recorder pretty sure I'd like to do that on the crash course the sheer overlay is kind of cool it allows us to take a picture of something and have it transparent on the screen so I took a picture of my hand if I hit set tap my shutter button now we have this transparent overlay this is not multiple exposure mode this is just an overlay appearing on our monitor and there are some interesting applications when shooting plates and things of that nature where if you're trying to frame up certain things exactly in certain positions this could be very helpful image stabilization status scope so what I think this is it allows us to pick a point and obviously image stabilization is working but I'm moving the camera around a little bit and it is fighting to maintain stabilization yep that's what's happening that green dot is showing us the counter action of the Image Stabilizer because the point on the blinds right there see how the crosshairs pretty much stay on it so when I move the camera one way or the other we're seeing the Image Stabilizer kind of fight the direction that's a very cool thing I've never seen that before so it's your eye a status scoped lens focus resume when this is turned on and you focus at a point and turn the camera off it'll remember where you're focusing Square was focus control ring determines how sensitive the focus control ring is whether it's nonlinear or linear can set how much we want to turn it I would kind of not mess with it for now and then we're into the camera settings might be a good time to set up some of these things formatting a memory card will race your memory card we have the double card slot function so if we're recording basically I'm recording from card 1 to card 2 but if I wanted to do backups so at the same time or we can set videos to one it stills to the other really depends a lot of pros will shoot with the backup feature on so they have to we can determine the destination slot if we're using for example that first one we have the ability to select different folders we can create a new folder just made a new one right there we can change the file name we can either using the folder number or the user setting so we can come in here you can change the lettering if we wanted to file number reset allows us to determine that when we swap out our memory cards do we want the counters to start over we have the ability to embed our copyright information in terms of our name or maybe our business if you wanted to do this you'd come in and determine the set spell your name out whatever and then it would save it to the individual files for our power saving modes we can determine when it'll go into sleep mode things of that nature timers I have the time to sleep turned off because I'm teaching right now the frame rate for the monitor so back monitor 30 to 60 frames electronic viewfinder we can go up to 120 frames per second we have our monitor settings in terms of brightness contrast we have saturation so you can tweak all those settings so our monitor backlight look at the letters how the letters will change when I turn this on see how much brighter it is or can have it on auto we have our battery level you can do it at this or we're gonna have a percentage the status LCD same thing do you want it backlit display with while the power is off talking about up here on top of the camera we have a few icons the eye sensor we've talked about we can determine the sensitivity if you want to adjust the level you can hopefully we'll have time to talk about the Wi-Fi I'd like to get through that let me turn the beep off here are the sounds for electronic shutter auto focus auto focus volume I think we have the tone we can even change tip tone for the shutter electronic shutter headphone volume pretty important for monitoring audio we have our Wi-Fi Bluetooth USB settings so we can determine how the USB port is being used I like USB power supply as an option if I need to charge the camera battery information TV connections stuff and there's so much information in here the custom modes we didn't talk about these those refer to the C 1 C 2 and 3 C 3 on top of our camera settings so if you are doing a specific type of shooting set your camera up the way you like it whether it's autofocus continuous with a certain cluster with a certain white balance with a certain picture style come into the menu and save it to custom mode you can choose which one you so the c1 and c2 refer to those first two positions the c3 we designate which out of those three we want the c3 on top of the camera to refer to that's what's going on so we can really save five positions but only three can be on the dial we have our custom mode settings in terms of the limit the number of custom modes we can edit the titles of those custom modes so if you wanted to name it portrait shooting sports shooting whatever it is you would be able to recognize that look at all the custom Mo's we have in there let's see three position now that we have we added five how to reload a custom mode is asking how do you want the custom mode to be turned on right now it's by defy the mode dial we've changed the recording mode you can also set this up to work if you power the camera on from a sleep mode or if you just turn the camera on I'd be annoying I think and that we can even determine some of the details available right now looks like it's just aperture shutter speed ISO and white balance we could save camera settings to a memory card if we wanted to transfer it this is where we would come in and I believe load to a certain one and we can reset our custom settings then we have things like our clock time zone thick's will refresh is when you get dead pixels you'll see it as a white or a red pixel on every single image this would remap the sensor pretty powerful sensor cleaning we talked about on the crash course I'll demonstrate how to do it language hopefully you're an English speaker if you're watching this firmware version tells us the software for the body and the lens often camera manufacturers will update shortly after release of a camera when there's bugs I've noticed a couple weird things already maybe we will see it you typically load it to the memory card some cameras will let you connect directly to a computer there is the online manual we have a URL for it so if you want to find the online manual there it is the regulation displays there we also have our my menu settings I think the most useful things in here are gonna be like format card right after some time you're only going to use certain settings okay there's no need to go through probably like over a hundred different menu items to find the one thing in order to add items we want to come down to this pen icon and hit add and 31 pages I just want the format let's see if we can find it clock zone online manual and this is going to let us scroll through pretty much most everything that we just went through and we can find that one thing that we really want card format do you want to save this to the position yeah double card slot function that's another good one yep and at that point we come back out and then in the my menu on page one we have these two options so I don't have to go looking for it in the deep menu and this is going to happen there's going to be a few things you're going to want on there we can sort them we can delete them and we can also turn on display from my menu when you do this and you go into the deep menu it's going to open up that purple tab straight away if I come in here just like that tap the shutter button hit that and we're back at the purple tab when that's not turned on it usually remembers the last one you were at pretty important navigation stuff for the life of your camera to know how to do that and then we have our playback mode so when we're playing images back do you want them to be rotated you want them to be sorted by date and time or maybe a file name we can magnify using the autofocus point I think that's a good one but you know we can also magnify I'm pretty sure by just playing touching and dragging or playing we can also swipe from side to side we have a hlg view assist mode again this has to do with those different displays come back in we can process raw images we have our six k4k options in terms of bulk saving time-lapse video to play we can protect our images or rate them these will not be saved from formatting the memory card we can resize rotate a lot of information here so much information if you wanted to resize we could if you wanted to copy if you wanted to trim a video most of this stuff I don't do it in camera I do it on a computer screen so I can see everything and how do you want the images to delete do you want it to be on yes first or no first so if you play play an image back and you hit the garbage can icon what do you want so if we want to delete the hand do you want this to be highlighted yes or highlighted no for the first button press so there's a ridiculous amount of customizations there's a ridiculous amount of menu items it's just a quick overview as fast as I could in on the crash course we will cover all the important things in depth and I hope you enjoyed it I wanted to demonstrate how to connect with our camera to our smart phone in this example I'm going to be using an iPhone 10 I have downloaded the Lumix sync app so if you have an Android there should be a comparable app on the Google Play Store when you download the app come into the menu come into Wi-Fi Wi-Fi function and what this is doing is it's turning on the Wi-Fi signal of the camera new connection we're going to demonstrate the live view shooting and viewing we can also have it send images while we're recording and it's basically saying it has turned on a Wi-Fi signal from the camera it's called s 1 a 6 dB 58 so what I'm going to do is come in to my Wi-Fi settings see if we can find it here it is on the bottom and we're going to select that Wi-Fi signal and it says if you haven't launched the application now would be a good time to do that we're going to come out it's right here so we've launched the app they're starting to get to know each other lumic's Inc would like to access your photos sure welcome to this sync app so what it wants us to do is to come back into our Bluetooth to pair it with the phone it's kind of a kind of a weird thing going to come in we're going to turn we're going to set we're going to pairing and it's saying please register the camera from the home of the Lumix sync and detect the following device name there it is so kind of a tricky thing is that it wants us to sync with bluetooth first before it'll actually recognize and give permission to communicate with each other it's going to go through this little setup thing and then we're given notice that it's connecting through the Wi-Fi now we're giving this notice that the app wants to join the s1 network this is putting out once you register and pair them together it should be easier to connect in the future just by turning the Wi-Fi on so we're hit okay and then we want to get all these overlays showing we know we're in business so there's a couple things we can do here we have a remote shutter control which really is just a single way to take a picture by tapping on the screen we can also do video recording here which is remote very nice start and stop video recording so coming back out we can also import images from our camera into our smartphone wants to establish another connection it looks like it's trying to do most of this on Bluetooth and then when we're doing other features it'll jump back so sometimes you're gonna run into problems like this it says their smartphone is I'm able to connect where the Wi-Fi tech connection has a problem so it's taking us back to our settings yeah jump back to my home network so you might run into some problems with this it's not the cleanest connection and see it dropped me out just after a few seconds I didn't touch anything something to keep in mind is that when we have the Wi-Fi connectivity it'll be highlighted here it was just Bluetooth this will be grayed out we have the ability to import images if we want it's telling us which memory card we've shot from how many images we have left there's my hand we can go to our SD card or our XQD card we can select multiple images come in and hit select so if I wanted to download these images very useful for social media stuff this is your thing come back out to me the most useful thing in my opinion is the remote shooting because it's going to give us control over things like focusing should be able to change our focusing score let's see if it's working take a picture we have obviously certain settings up here we have our picture Styles the picture quality for JPEG which focusing mode we have because our drive mode we have our Wi-Fi Bluetooth the image stabilization we have our side tabs available shutter speed aperture exposure compensation ISO which cut memory card we can adjust our white balance our ISO touching and dragging if we wanted to brighten it up our shutter speed we have access to our quick menu very nice lots of good features in here obviously here's our still tap to take a picture video recording also available really really good stuff we can toggle our displays so this is something that I do occasionally use just depending on what I'm doing so if I come in here and mess this up turn that back on there it goes looks like it's doing it's it's pretty focused thing and we can take a picture that way we can customize these side menus as well we can get this to show up on the camera obviously we can get more features in here probably the most useful thing about the connection is this remote shooting we have a few options in here you can turn off the camera things of that nature Wi-Fi Bluetooth setup so that is an overview of how to pair and connect our camera with our smart phone through bluetooth and then Wi-Fi when we're talking about lenses for our s 1 or s 1 are at the time of this recording this camera is brand new we don't have many native lenses in fact the 24 to 105 is the only lens that I've used on it so far we know that there's a 70 to 200 F for coming there's a 50 millimeter 1.4 coming Sigma has announced the L Series for its Sigma art lenses to work natively but those lenses have not been released and there is also the Sigma MC 21 adapter which should allow us to use Sigma art lenses and Canon EF lenses with the EF mount I hesitate to recommend it because I haven't used it but I'm sure with time we're going to be seeing many adapters and the compatibility will improve things of that nature if you are a video shooter you are definitely going to want to get an external microphone I like the rode onboard microphones has been using them for years if pretty good for general-purpose shooting I'm using an e 100 sennheiser lav mic for this video use it all the time and you're going to want to get some kind of stabilization in terms of a tripod I like the bogan Manfrotto series use the carbon fiber legs and there's another company called me photo that has something that's very comparable I'm a huge believer of getting a locking ball head in any event if you found this video helpful and you gained some value but you're still struggling to learn how to shoot real-world situations you're probably going to want to check out my Panasonic s 1 and s one-hour crash course where I will take you on location and show you what I am thinking in doing to get spectacular results if it's not the fastest way to learn your camera I will give you a refund in any event thank you again for joining me have a great day and I will see you on the crash course [Music] [Music]

Channel: Michael The Maven

Views: 94,296

Keywords: Panasonic S1, Panasonic S1R, Lumix S1, Lumix S1R

Id: -4WzDLyyA04

Length: 103min 58sec (6238 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 08 2019