Paint ANYTHING to this standard in less than an hour!

hi my name is chris and you're watching trevarian miniatures a channel with the goal to create tutorials for all skill levels since games workshop sent me a box of the new blog ball season 2 out of the blue i thought this would be a good opportunity to create some tutorials around the figures i know that getting into painting can be intimidating and there's a lot to learn but with today's video i want to show you that there is an obtainable middle ground between rushing through figures and taking way too long every single one of these miniatures looks absolutely fantastic and full of character and i picked one black cork and one imperial alignment to show you how to paint the two teams the minis conveniently come divided into different colored sprues so if you want to just assemble and play right away you can without mixing them up so after clipping out every bit i needed for the first orc i wanted to paint i started to clean up these sprue connecting parts and mold lines using a cutter knife i scrape along the mold line after i cleaned up the excess parts to get a smooth surface i'm using a rougher and then a finer grit sandpaper that can be used with and because this leaves some residue i'm quickly cleaning the model with an old toothbrush for assembly i use super glue because it's quicker than plastic salmons but this is up to you of course i recommend to at least fill the most prominent gaps whenever they are accessible like this i just let a drop of superglue run in and then sand it down i also have a video on how to fill gaps with other material on the channel if you don't like to use superglue once everything is cleaned and assembled and especially if you want to play with these miniatures i recommend pinning them to the base and for that i insert at least one pin into the feet of the minis i base coat with black in some places where the spray doesn't reach i'm applying a relatively undiluted layer of black paint there's no danger of paint rubbing off because it's mostly in recessed areas anyway i don't care that much about sentinel base coating especially if i don't plan to use transparent layers over it but here i give the orc one loose coat of white because the green will be easier to apply and to get vibrant let me quickly walk you through the colors i used for this tutorial i took some grass green a lime yellow with darker red some beige dark angels contrast paint and a contrast medium green brown a yellow steel metallic contrast paint black rakeland flash shade black and white some gray one or two shades of gold screamer pink scrag brown some equivalent of dwarf flesh and an equivalent of elf flesh a brown sepia wash and texture paints remember you don't need these exact colors just use the closest color you have don't worry too much if your result slightly differs no two painters will ever be able to reproduce exactly the same results and that's good because otherwise it would be boring when i mixed the green i'm adding a bit of lime yellow for my base color you can see what i mentioned before the relatively bright green covers better over white and less so over black which is why i need one or two extra layers here i'm painting the inside of the mouth red and the teeth in a beige color i like to work off of neatly applied base coats even if you are using quicker techniques after this you will simply get cleaner results and in this scale small spills quickly look like large mistakes now comes the magic i'm diluting dark angel's green contrast paint with the contrast medium and i'm applying it like you would apply a wash i'm not a fan of using the contrast paint the way games workshop wants you to use them but i found them to sort of be some sort of better wash i still cover every part of the surface i want to shade we need to do that to avoid staining but i direct the pigments more towards the recesses i found that if i use contrast paints like a wash it leaves a lot less staining than regular washes it's easier to apply and easier to get good results once everything is dry even though the result looks pretty good and smooth i want to add a bit more contrast to the face which is the most important part of this sculpt in my opinion so i'm using a makeup brush and wipe off most of the paint on a paper towel then i'm carefully dragging the brush over the face for the higher up parts to catch some paint this gives a lot more definition to the features but we got to be aware that this sacrifices a bit of smoothness [Music] i'm treating all of the skin the same way before i continue to work on other parts the next step you can see why because i have to clean up some parts i already painted after the driver's step i'm mixing a light brown color for the base of the letter adding yellow again gives the tone a vibrancy and i want the letter to be relatively bright because most of the armor is going to be dark i'm super lazy when it comes to using a lot of colors so a lot of the time i'm using the same tones in a different context in this case i used a diluted version of the leather color as a shade for the horns at this stage i'm applying a few base colors aluminum for the armor and some details like rivets a red brown for the leather straps and the adidas shoes and a clean shade of white photo trims i want to achieve a really dark black metallic armor so again i'm mixing a wash consistency from black temper contrast paint and contrast medium we have to cover all of the area again to avoid staining and for the effects to work i'm starting with a higher dilution because it's easier to fix too little coverage than get rid of too much cottage adding a second layer gives me the desired result and sometimes i'm using the wash in a bit more controlled and confined way to define some of the smaller details on the arm the second part that still needs some depth is the leather clothing and what works with diluted contrast paint also works when you reduce washes with contrast medium again we cover all of the area with an initial layer if you don't put the mix over everything in one go you can still get some stained lines so don't get sloppy here the mix settles nicely in the recesses and slightly tints all other areas contrast paints and any mix with contrast medium takes a long time to dry so while i wait for the first layer to dry i'm adding a tiny bit of black to the mix and shade the leather straps and the boots using the same technique like i said i'm lazy that's why i also shade the mouth the horns and the white of the boots while i'm at it so let's take a break here and look at the shading in the back the paint settled nicely on the sides it's okay but not great and on the lower parts of the gloves it's not quite horrible so keep in mind while this approach is really good to get quick results that still look great it's still in principle awash and washers do what they want if you let them to avoid this you might have to work at less space at the time and direct the pigments more towards where you want them to stay i'm adding edge highlights to the metal plates to define the shapes and as an additional detail i'm just slowly dragging my brush across the armor in a straight motion this looks like additional wear but it also can be used as a highlight if placed strategically if you move banged up and dull metal around you will always have features like dents and scratches that will reflect some light and this is a battle ready orc all of what you see on screen took me about 90 minutes but a big chunk of this is drying times of the contrast medium which won't be such a factor if you're batch paint i know that speed painting is all the rage on youtube right now but painting to me is a hobby that i really enjoy so why should i rush through it and even though these approaches take a bit longer the improved results are definitely worth it and with practice you will get faster and faster even when using advanced techniques we still need to create the base for our black orc but we will get to that in a bit first let's look at the other star of this video the imperial line woman after applying a base layer of a bright yellow gold i'm mixing the colors for the feathers and all i used was the layer green brown and i just added a tiny bit of white and black i want to show you that painting is not science you don't need to replicate color tones perfectly it's fun to mix your own color variations and it's also cheaper and also if your colors differ just slightly from miniature to miniature within an army or a team it's not that much of a big deal i also want to illustrate one problem that painters run into when trying to wet blend it sounds great to just slap collar on top of a base coat slap the other one next to it and jerk your brush around a bit and boom perfect blend the blend actually doesn't look bad but you can see that the base coat still shines through naturally because how many colors you know have one pass coverage so to make sure my gradient covers i redo the whole process by first adding the mid-tone and then wet blending in the darker tone and then a lighter tone using a blood red i'm painting in a bit of variation into the feather just like with the orc before we go back to the magic again i'm covering most areas in their respective base colors for the white i'm starting from a mix of white with a little gray added this means i can reserve the pure white for the highlights i did not have whatever color games workshop was using for the reddish purple parts of the clothing so i decided to mix a color that was close from screamer pink and what's darker red remember we don't have to use exactly the same color close enough it's good enough the moin cloth parts get an opaque layer from my beige spectrum for some variation and the belt and leather straps get a darker color from it too the hair gets a coat of bright reddish brown steel metallics go on and i paint the rest of the ladder parts like the sports shoes and gloves they again receive a darker color for my beige mix using similar mixes on different elements of your figure adds to a coherent appearance before i start with the shading the face and skin tones also need some color i'm going to aim for a simple but effective approach here because faces are tiny and can go wonky very quickly if we are using a lot of colors and layers for the base layer i'm using a dwarf flesh tone and i also paint the teeth and the eyes a darker shade of white for the eyes i keep a darker circle black to frame the eyeball and then i just place a dot of wear dark gray in for the pupils and iris and i highly recommend getting some magnifying glasses for this it makes painting in general so much easier you can find a link for the glasses i use and a lot of other affiliate links for all of the gear that i use in the description it's not perfect but definitely good enough some people don't paint eyes at all but to me it's part of the mini even if i keep it simple for the highlights i'm using an l flash type color and i make sure to put the highlights in strategic places tip of the nose back and side of the nose and upper lip so as i add highlights to the cheeks i make sure i have a dark lining around all of the features to define the face just leaving some of the dwarf flesh to shine through and i'll take the same approach for the rest of the skin okay time to draw everything together and for that i'm mixing a brown wash with contrast medium again the wash settles into recesses nicely and complements the colors we used for the feathers i'm also using the same mix to shade the hair it's actually really simple to paint the decent looking metallic gold basically what we need to get right is the tone by adding some brown and at the same time taking some of the shine away from the areas we shade i'm using rakeland flesh shade mixed with contrast medium and you can see that most of the time it settles where i want it to and in areas like the shield on the back i direct the pigments to where i want the shades to be i do the same on the hip guard to the round shoulder armor and then i'll leave the loan to dry which takes a while the last step is to bring out the reflectiveness again on the edges and some of the higher upper parts i'm placing highlights on the apex of certain structures and you can see how the edge highlights bring back the shininess of the areas i cover adding in combination points on round features like this also adds to the credibility for the highlights i'm using a slightly brighter metallic gold on cylindrical areas i highlight in the line and on spherical objects i confine the highlight to a more circular area and i use a mix of stippling and just gradually wiping the brush over the surface to leave a few of the metallic pigments for the rest of the metallics i'm applying a thin mix of black templar contrast again and we can use the same mix to shade areas like shoes the leather and the inside of the jar for the white i decided to apply a subtle shade of gray and you guessed it right i do that with a mix of contrast medium and gray because all we need in there is a bit of shadow to shade the purple parts of the clothes i'm adding some black to this mix and selectively create dark lining and softer shadows the loincloth isn't really suitable for the magic wash because it doesn't really have a deep recess instead there's a slight curve in an area that would probably just catch a tiny bit less light than the rest so what i did instead was some layering on higher areas left and right and using the pigment pushing technique i created a slight transition with a glaze pushing the pigments towards the highlight area and creating a somewhat smooth gradient that way and this is the battle ready imperial wine woman took me about 60 minutes ironically applying the metallic gold took the biggest chunk of this time one last thing we need to do is create the illusion of the figures standing on the pitch to me that means dry earth and leftover grass there's a couple of ways to create bases for bloodball figures like cutting out circles of a grass mod and gluing it to the base or using electrostatic grass but personally i want the field to feel like it has been ruined by players battling it out constantly since i want to use crackle paint to simulate earth it's good to make sure there is a layer of paint below the crackle layer just in case the cracks get really wide and let the black of the base shine through then i'm mixing some crackle paint with texture paste so we get a good mix of cracks and texture on the dryer once the paste has dried i'm adding a shade layer of a beige brown and i'm dry brushing in a few highlights once that is done we need some holes in the base for our pins to go in and we can glue the mini in place like i said i want to add leftover spots of grass and luckily there's pre-made tufts in different sizes colors and lengths away these tufts can be simply picked off the transfer sheet and will stick to the base because they have glue attached to the underside so we can easily stick them on the base and they will stay there i always try to give the tops a bit of a direction that way they don't look too samey and i can add an individual touch i'm picking out two more variants one being more brown in color looking more dry and the second one is a shorter version of the first top after the tufts are attached we can add a couple of drops of paint or ink and drivers to tips to add some diversity to the grass at last i was stippling on a white and a pasty consistency to represent the jaw clients of the pitch with a small dry brush this creates another little detail that will put these players right on the plane view after this is done we want to clean up the sides of the base with pure black and of course we can apply some varnish at this point to protect the paint job and here's the result that's already in a reasonable time frame but also not too shabby to look at now don't click away yet because i have an additional video for you where i show you how to push your current tabletop quality even further by using six simple to understand tricks and techniques and i'll show you how to apply them to these two miniatures the video will come out in about 10 days on my channel so make sure to subscribe and activate the bell to get notified whenever i release a new video if you can't wait and are eager to see the video already you can join my patreon at the 2 and up level because it is already live there as a pre-release of course if you want to support the channel any support on patreon goes a long way and it helps me to keep releasing videos on youtube for now thanks for watching stay creative and don't forget painting is fun don't rush it at least not too much [Music] you

Channel: Trovarion Miniatures

Views: 204,279

Keywords: miniature, painting, miniaturepainting, miniatures, warhammer, warhammer40k, ageofsigmar, bloodbowl, blood bowl, orks, orcs, metallics, how to paint ork skin, how to paint imperium, blood bowl imperial nobillity, imperial nobility, speed painting, gold tmm, how to paint orks, blood bowl season 2, blood bowl season 2 painting, how to paint blood bowl, how to paint blood bowl season 2

Id: 8TE-NEzRXxE

Length: 18min 46sec (1126 seconds)

Published: Sun Dec 06 2020