OUR BUILT XR650 HITS THE DYNO!

hey folks we are back with our xr 600 project so i wanted to show i've got half the head ported as you can see i talked about a d-shaped port in the head here you can see how it's straight looks like a letter d now if you go over to the stock side and look at it it's just around you know angle it in that way you can see it's just a round hole and you can see how much bigger it is i'll show you with these calipers if we take and measure this side and then you stick it over on this side it's like a quarter of an inch bigger also god damn okay so i've got the new bronze guides in the head also i did half the head so half the head's ported half and the valve job's done on half the head also i've got a four angle valve job i'll show you you can see i don't know if you can see but there's one little gray angle which is the seat that the valve sits on so we got one here before which is a 15 degree a 45 then we got a 58 and a 75 so this hole is much larger this way as opposed to this one because i'm putting it in one millimeter oversized valve in it okay so i'm going to show you guys how to put the guides in it and re-grind the other two seats in a few minutes we got the cam back from mega i wanted to show you can see if you look real close you can see how what they did to this cam they they build up they they weld them they weld the uh lobes and then they regrind them to the grind of the cam that they wanted so you can see the evidence there that's pretty cool how they do that and the reason why we're putting shorter we have to put these are 80 millimeters to two millimeters shorter which is 80 thousands here up there shorter because this cam is gonna depress the valve spring down closer and it matches the valve it matches the valve seal and hits if you don't have shorter guides in there so that's why we have to do that and we're going to be boring this today too so i'll show you how to the final technique on bar in the cylinder too okay so now we're boring the cylinder i've got the head over there heating up in a little oven we're gonna drive the guides in in a minute but i'll show you a little bit of this here i just made a cut i got a couple more to make so we're gonna bring that back up [Music] okay so the piston measures with my micrometer four inch 13 thousandths and je wants a finished bore of four inch fifteen thousand so that's two thousands clearance they want between the piston and the cylinder so i'm gonna home this just under the size of the piston so it leaves me three thousands to hone out to a finished 415 for a perfect cross hatch in size and will be properly you have to put this little extra weight on this barn bar when you get out this big because you'll get a little little chatter on the cutter if you don't put that weight on there i usually make 20 000 cuts at a time so i'm going to go to 20 more thousandths which is gonna bring it at uh 409 so i'm only gonna have very few thousands after this cup pretty critical to get this right because uh if you overshoot it then the hole in the hole in the cylinder is too big and you can't use it so you have to make sure it's right here [Laughter] all right so let's go check that out okay we're going to come over and check on the cylinder head i got a little hot plate and a box over the head [Music] we're at 240 degrees i want to get this to 275 and then we're going to set it on the floor over there and knock the guides in it i like to put it on the floor on a piece of cardboard so you don't get no bench pounce because even with the head at 300 degrees and the guides are in the freezer they still drive in pretty firm this is the worst part of working on a motorcycle that i hate putting in guides in the head but i don't like doing it too much but there's only four of them about 270 degrees there i'm gonna set this on the floor put this like that so i don't burn my knees these just came out of the freezer they got a little teflon tape on them which is going to make a little seal when they seat into the top of the head it comes with an o-ring but it just mashes the o-ring out of there i'm going to put a little assembly lube on on the guide too there you can hear that solid hit there she is i just heard my boring bar stop too all right well that's reheating let's go check out the barn bar is that a fire hazard jeff yeah it could be all right so that was the final cut now we're gonna check out how this fits you don't want it to fall in there see that it's like almost the perfect size so now i've only got two and a half thousands or so going out to hone out it'll be perfect and i'll show you how to hone it with a bore gauge there it is you can hear the difference that solid hit it's down done money yeah now i'll show you you can't of course you can't grind the seats till you got the guides in there this is a sunning home it's the like the best one you can buy it's 500 bucks just for this home a lot of homes come with a stone and a stone and a fiber and a fiber wiper they're no good the thing wobbles so you need aluminum and stones it keeps it very very stable i only have to take two and a half thousandths out of this so that's just a thousandth and a quarter each side so it isn't going to take much [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right so we're going to stop there for a second the piston fits but i can tell it's probably just got zero clearance i'll put this on zero zero it out and then you go to the top and you still want it to be on zero see it's like a it's almost there but that's how you make sure you're honing straight from one end to the other you want it to stay on zero no matter where you put this so that's how i keep track of what i'm doing so now i know this is on zero that's the bore size set right there now you come over here i use my vise just to hold this this is set to the size of the piston so i put it on here like this and there you can see the difference right there i've got about a thousandth and a half clearance so i gotta hone it some more [Music] what would that do like if you had too little clearance jeff or no clearance well yeah if you if the clearance is too tight when this thing swells up the piston skirt will swell up and stick to the row right and it's easier and if you get it a little too loose you know that's not good but it'll still be okay if you get a too loose then the piston skirt rattles and then you can hear the piston rattling in there so so it's important to get your clothes yeah is it safe to say that a lot of garage decks up their clearance maybe you'll go too much on the home job and yeah well i've seen a lot of board jobs that i've taken apart and they're honed way too coarse and they're not straight you know they they probably just gotta hone and hone it and it looks good and send it see this is a metric dial gauge so every ten lines is four thousands because remember one millimeter is forty thousands so one tenth of a millimeter is four thousands so i'm looking to be just five lines difference from which is two thousands you can see right there when i rock my mic i'm only three lines i gotta go two microns further to get where i want to be that's how crucial this is microns give me a little more juice there um [Music] yeah that's uh i believe it's 330 grit with a cross hatch every every quarter inch or so so see what we're looking for is we want to keep that on zero every way when we rock this zero come off the top zero it's like perfect so i know that this thing is i know this thing is round and there's no deviation from top to bottom and then we are five microns me get that you gotta get it right perfectly in the center see there it is five microns that's two thousands clearance so i'm gonna have to say this is a pretty good board job two thousand clearance and it's straight and now you want to check your ring end gap so you just float these in the cylinder like this just have to piston in there and square it up so you got a nice straight gap [Music] it's got ten thousands on that ring which may be just a splosh tight stick it in there square it up they both got ten thousands i mean i think i'm going to loosen them up just only two thousand i want to give it 12. i have a little deal over there i put the ring on it and it it grinds just the edge of it so i'm going to open them up just two thousands each these are my pilots from my different size valve guide so it's got a little taper on it you put it in there and it firms up sticks right there now we have to get this perfectly level now this is what you do you take a set of calipers and you measure your valve that you're grinding see here this valve is 37 millimeters i'm going to set this to 36. i'm subtracting one millimeter because when i'm done grinding that's the width of the seat that i want so if the valve is 36 and i'm making it to 35 that's going to bring each side down 20 thousandths because remember 40 000 is one millimeter so 20 on each side i'm subtracting a millimeter and this valve is the one that i already did see how i got it placed perfectly it's got a little mark on you can see i took a little fine vial grinding compound just a little bit and just etched it just a little bit so i can see where i'm placed i don't like using daikum i just use that stuff it doesn't scratch the valve but take any finish off it so now i'll show you how this machine works when we turn this on you'll notice that it doesn't touch the whole seat at once it orbits around it so it doesn't eliminates chatter so remember i got these set at 35 so i'm looking i'm looking for this outer ground edge to be 35 millimeters and i still got quite a ways to go so i gotta get that out to the width i want it before i work the other angles this little unit here is called a peg it's from italy this little unit costs three thousand dollars but you gotta have the tools to do this kind of precision work all right so my outer my outer lip is where i want it but look how wide it is it's three times the width i want it so now i go in the middle with a 58 which is this one right here i go in with the 58 and i shrink that up to the to the width i want it and then i'm going to put my 30 degree before the 45 and then i'm gonna have my 58 and 75 just like i did over here okay so you can see how far how wide my 45 is now i'm going in the center with a 58 which is gonna narrow band that seat because i don't want it that wide so we got the guides in there when the seats are all done and we assemble this is this little sits here and when it's when it's hooked to the valve this one will go in here when this is assembled you have to measure it from here to the bottom of that to the underside of this retainer and it's supposed to be one inch 310 thousands so i mean you can change that by adding shims and stuff to to get the assembled height so that's another important thing we have to do when i'm done before i'm done with this head i'm going to install the cylinder and the head on the motor and i'm going to show you how to check piston to valve clearance and we're going to cc out the combustion chamber and check the compression ratio but that's coming up right there it's done yeah because pounding that in yeah when you drive that guide in there did it shrink up a little bit no the the end of the guide driver doesn't go all the way through the guide it kind of lays in the middle of the guide and while you're hammering on it it's it's nicking it a little bit inside so just give it a quick ream and smooth it right out and fixes it but this is a ream right here just run it in the valve guide a couple times and you're all set okay so we're getting ready to assemble the 650 here i've got the head all done pretty much i got the valve job all done i've got the shorter guides installed the head is all ported and with this light help a little bit here i wanted to show you can see the placement on the where i've got the placement on the valves right here the little gray area that's where it's sitting on the gray area or on the seat and i've got a multi-angle valve job i've got a 30 a 45 a 58 and a 75 so that's all set i got my ream my ream today i re ream the guide so the valves fit properly so i'm going to assemble this head in a few minutes and we're going to pop it on the motor here i've got some 80 000 solder sitting on the pistons in four spot where we're going to back the motor up just to there put the head gasket on tighten the head down and just squish the solder back and forth and you take the head back off and measure the solder and that tells you you're pissed into head clearance at the same time though i got the rings on the piston and at the same time i'm going to cc out the combustion chamber i'll show you how to do that with my beret over there we'll be doing that in a few minutes so the cam's all been welded and re-ground the rocker arms have been hardened and refaced they they change the angle on these rockers to just for the grind of the cam so they so the spec card comes out you know it works the way it's supposed to be formulated so it's a whole package we got the heavy duty valve springs i may have to slot the cam sprocket a little bit to greet it to get it to open at 26 degrees we'll see when i throw a degree wheel on it okay so we'll be back in a minute and i'll show you how to check squish and compression ratio okay so when you are checking your cc combustion chamber you have to know the uh exact displacement of your engine so how you do that is you multiply your board times your board times your stroke times pi and that tells you your displacement so i know we got a 102 millimeter bore we're going to multiply that by 102 again and then we're going to multiply that by the stroke which is 82 and then we're going to multiply that by pi which they say is the most important number in the universe i guess it it measures the it measures the circumference ratio to the to a circle's diet to the center of its diameter i don't know it's a formula used in mathematical stuff that's all i know but it works okay so we're gonna and now we're gonna take that whole number and divide it by four because we're working with a single cylinder engine it's a 669 but the next numbers are seven so i'm rounding it up to a 670. so now we know our displacements are 670 so now we can cc our combustion chamber so we're at top dead center all the valves are closed and you're going to want to take my chemist barrette here i'm going to fill it up and we're going to cc out the combustion chamber see how much fluid it holds yeah it's a little 10 white fork oil and a little bit of mineral spirits so i'm going to purge this down to zero right there zero okay so now i'm gonna i'm gonna fill the combustion chamber up to them to the two bottom threads of the spark plug hole that was 50 cc's it's going to take a little bit more it's right at the bottom of the spark plug 50 and 16 and a half more 50 66.5 what kind of equation are we pumping this into jeff okay so now we have to take the displacement of the engine yeah add that amount to it 66.5 and then divide the number by 66.5 and that will tell you your compression ratio how big's the piston the displacement is 670. so now i'm going to go over here to my calculator 70 we're going to add 66.5 equals and then we're going to divide that number by 66 five i like where this is going eleven to one compression wow the piston's ten and a quarter but by taking the base gasket out it added some more you know we got the squish tighter we're at 11 to 1 compression so that's why i wanted to take the motor out and cc down so i knew exactly where we were so this will run fine on you know pump gas i recommend 93 octane but it's going to be just fine so now i'm going to put the i got to take this back apart and clean all the fluid out of it and then i'm gonna put the top end the rocker on the cams and we're gonna degree the cam and check the piston valve clearance so that's our next step so i'll be back in a few minutes we got here all right so now i'm i've got the engine all assembled and we're going to check our cam time and this is mega cycles timing card that they sent with the cam they want the intake valve to open up at 26 degrees before top dead center so what we do is we take a degree wheel we put it on the crankshaft we zero it out the piston's at top and you zero out your valve latch you don't want any clearance and then we're going to rotate the motor till this moves one millimeter because it says readings are taken with zero lash at one millimeter so we're going to rotate this until it moves one millimeter and here it goes to 50's and half a millimeter and we're looking for 26. you can see what we got we're like 26 and a half so now this is a single overhead cam so all the lobes are on one cam so that's the most important number if it's opening at 26 i can't do anything about the other numbers if it was a intake cam and a separate exhaust cam you can slot the sprockets and individually degree the cam separately but when you're dealing with a single overhead cam uh i checked the this one's open perfect and the exhaust is open and where they say within two degrees and the closing values are a little off but i can't do anything about it that's done in the rampant the rocker are the way the rock around ramps are ground i mean i'd have to send them back to mega cycle and say hey these are all four degrees in order to mess around with that but we're good we're good we've got plenty of uh piston valve clearance we got uh six and a half millimeters that's 260 thousands i mean on some motors i've built i've tightened the uh piston valve clearance right up to 40 and 40 000 so on the intake and 60 on the exhaust this thing's not going to bend the valve it's got plenty of clearance and yesterday when i uh cc'd it out i put some solder in there on top of the piston 80 000 stick solder it just barely nicked them so i got 80 000 piston to head clearance which i couldn't i could tighten this up to 35 thousandths but then the compression would be up in the 12 12 and a half area which builds more heat we don't want that this thing only had 8.3 compression to start with now it's 11 so we're good i'm confident this thing was gonna be a pretty good running engine so i'm going to put it in the frame today we're going to get it running later on well then we're going to the dyno yeah okay so i also these are a whole bunch of engines i built in the past it's a whole notebook of engines and timing cards that i've kept so this is the one on this bike here i make notes of all the engines i build and what my clearances are so i have reference to go back on if needed good thing to do is keep notes because these are if i want to build another gsx r1000 like i did a few years ago i can look back and see how i set that motor up and i can see the before and after power and you know i can copy my notes right on just like a professor okay so we got this all back together i'm ready to start it up for the first time here i'm going to start it up this bike holds two quarts of oil but the frame it the oil goes in the frame and it only holds one so i got it filled right now i'm going to run it for 10 seconds and shut it off and then top it off [Music] dino day what do we have here jeff well this is the day here we've got this thing all done it's on the dyno we're going to see proofs in the pudding here right now i'm going to fire this thing up warm it up a second do a couple runs [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] 44-36 i'm i'm gonna try one more [Music] [Music] wow wow okay so i'm kind of excited here uh definitely made it made 50 more power holy let me uh get rid of that okay so look at that before and after graft from 30 horsepower to 45 that would be a full fifty percent increase i'm impressed i'm really impressed because like i said in the first video i did one of these before and i really didn't get that much results out of it while it was an older one it was an old xr600 but this thing really responded well now the only thing we didn't do in this build was put a uh xrs only header on it this has the stock headpipe with uh xr's only muffler on it so i'm going to put a challenge out to xr this is a good got good point this bike is all done dialed and done so let's call xrs only and see if they'll kick up a head pipe and we can test their pipe for them and show all our folks what a stand-alone bolt-on header pipe we'll see if they're game for that we'll give them a call but hey i'm really impressed it basically has 10 horse more everywhere up until the top where it's breathing a lot better so it is the power further yes look at him look at how this one rolled off this one rolled off you know right here and this one carried way over to here so it's a completely different motorcycle now yeah let's check the cursor like right where the power starts to fall off like right here we'll click it right there let's get let's get some views on the video and then we'll send it to xrs only and talk to the owner and see if he's willing to send us a head bite because i'm curious just to bolt that on and see if it does anything from here next plan folks we'll see you then [Music] uh you

Channel: KAPLAN AMERICA

Views: 497,344

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Id: IBj7jQuCmyQ

Length: 29min 38sec (1778 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 08 2021

Reddit Comments

[u/DomDeV707]

Wow. Makes me want to do some mods to mine to make it breathe better, but then I'd be worried about the already borderline suspension and brakes keeping up! XD

[u/samurai77]

It always great to see a master of his craft doing his thing.

[u/von_h]

Wow, really impressive results. My 2005 is getting a little wheezy at 20,000 miles now, might be time for it to receive some similar treatment.