Oliver Chain Coupler installation

i often get asked about the chain coupler that goes back here on the back of a hydropower and over under on most olivers and uh well first thing we need to do is make sure everything's lined up good to extend the life of all that one of the biggest things i see is guys using half inch bolts in all four corners of their waukesha engines the other makes engines have uh different setups but on these this corner here under the starter is a half inch and then the opposite corner up front is half inch the one under the injection pump is a 9 16 and so is the one on the other on the back corner on the other side i've got both the bolts the half inch bolts in and even with that it's not lined up enough to get the 9 16 bolts in so you can already see how the engine if you use four half inch bolts there's the other one four half inch bolts can let's see if this one will drop in i mean they're a fairly snug fit because they're alignment bolts that one ain't even thinking about it so i'll get my drift punch and try to finish lining them up so i can get them in place usually it takes just a little tapping let's see i'm trying to feel if i can fish which way it feels like it's gonna go forward just a skosh i try to catch the end of the punch on the hole the edges this makes it a little tougher with this hoses in the way and a long punch that doesn't feel too bad still sounds pretty solid though i'll take this bolt i've got laying around just to feel oop there now i can feel it i'm just a little far forward i can catch the motor mount on the frame that bolt just a little bit oh no i'd need to go forward a little more i'm thinking backwards okay [Music] so i feel with my little bolt i'm catching on that just a skosh so i need to pull it towards me just a hair i felt it moved and it must have slid back a little when i did that oh that is i don't feel too bad see if we can get her started oh yeah yep got the thread part in then we're down to the shoulder which will tap in like that and just got to do the same thing on the injection pump okay i've got all four of the bolts in including the dowel bolts the 9 16 bolts in their proper place i don't have them tightened down but they should be uh they're in and they were the dowel bolts were a good snug fit so the engine should be where it's going to be what you're looking for to make sure the biggest thing is the height on these is the same on a 15 and 16 it doesn't usually seem to be an issue because the bell housing actually bolts into the block and that keeps everything lined up good but your 1750s and 1850s with the waukesha you got this plate in between and none of the bolts actually go into the block from the bell housing they all go through the plate and the plate is bolted to the bell housing so then that plate can kind of sag a little because of the weight of the hydropower or over under and so what you do this is an 1850 diesel tub usually it's not an issue with these either but um some of them have the holes drilled in some don't uh but you run a bolt up through one of these holes and it's best to put some kind of steel plate on it and i drill a little divot in it so it stays on the bolt to support the bottom of that hydropower over under and then you can adjust this bolt and you wanna you'll want a well that one's all the way up but you'll want a long enough one where you can put a jam nut on it so you can set it once you uh get it in place but then you can use that bolt and that plate to raise and lower the unit until the sprockets line up vertically um that makes a big difference on how well the chain goes on and also how long it lasts and whether or not it's likely to come flying off so it can be done on the 15s and 16s like i say generally they aren't as much of an issue because the bellhousing bolts into the the back of the block and supports it better cast iron to cast iron a little less flex but if it needs to be done that's what you do so i slide these couplers as close together as i can get them and then just feel along there to make sure the height is the same um if it's higher it's probably because there is a plate in there underneath your unit but if it's lower you just run that screw up a little bit until they i don't get any special tools out i mean basically if it's finger close where you can feel their the same height you can check for side to side there's not much you can do about that if you got all your proper bolts in place they should be lined up good this one feels like it is like i say i'm not sure what the heck you'd do if it wasn't because them dowel pins uh bolts get her locked in side to side pretty good once they're in normally on a 1550 and a 1650 even a 1600 you can pull the engine without taking the coupler chain off uh we got this extended rear coupler that may box make i'll throw a number on the screen but they weld an extra a little better light there they weld an extra piece of coupler on the back because there's usually unused splines on the input shaft and the part that was used on this one was worn and so that gives us about another inch of splines good splines plus the old worn splines to use rather than pulling the hydraulic unit and spending the big money on and work and time putting in a new input shaft on the transmission this is a quick easy fix first time i've used one so we'll see how it turns out but it looks good there are aftermarket sprockets out there and you know if your tractor is just gonna be in parades and little things like that an occasional plow day or something but it's not something really ever gonna work again i guess the aftermarkets will do save you a few bucks but i've gotten nothing but poor reviews out of them myself uh i haven't ever tried any but they the metal is not as hard and they just wear out a lot quicker and so we're going with the oem original equipment manufacturer there's the chain part number 107 417as partially doing it in here to show how to put one in in the tractor but also that longer coupler is just enough longer where you can't get the engine in and out with the chain coupler on so but small price to pay for saving some money on replacing shafts and a lot of labor see if i can find a good spot for this all right let's get a chain on there needs to be a little bit of space between those couplers [Music] now either a hydropower or an over under should be able to turn in the normal direction of the engine and this chain's gonna be loose enough to walk right back off i think sometimes you can get them to stick and walk around this can be a bear on a front wheel assist tractor because the transfer case is right under there so you can't reach up from underneath yeah this one just followed on or kept walking off so i'll slide underneath and get it on there always use the original pins that came with the chain they are much harder than your normal pen they should be stainless if i remember i guess i could get a magnet out and test them average cotter pin i'm just getting the small ones in they both go on the same side like so run them through a end piece and then we'll see about putting them in on your larger frame tractors like 1750s 1850s to gain the little extra room you need to get with these pins if you once you get make sure your coupler is lined up good you can take the engine bolts out and slide the engine forward on the pads the uh inch or so that's there and that gives you enough room to get around the back side to slip these babies in and i might come out from the other side maybe i'll do this from the underside oops i missed one and two there i didn't miss now we'll roll around top to get the rest of it on which you can do like so okay we're back up top again and i want to make sure the heads of those cutter keys in the back there are facing the direction the engine turns which from the top is this that way so that head is good because that's the strongest part the small pins are facing this away with the head right here which is the way we want it because the chain turns that way so we can draw them back up put the other link in if you need more room on this if you happen to be doing one with front wheel assist and there's a transfer case under there there's no reason you can't pull the boulder mount bolts back out inside the engine ahead like you would on a larger frame tractor to get you a little extra room to work behind the real bad one is the 1600 this cutout right here is not there this whole area is covered which under normal circumstances you can just slide it off the shaft with the engine and the hydropower but if you buy that extended coupler that takes up that extra room and that is no longer an option there just need to bend the ends [Music] so i guess there's no reason a person can turn that light back i guess there's no reason a person can't put the long one in the back and the short ones in the front the biggest thing is to have the head on this end here in the direction of travel they seem to hold up better that way so and there we go coupler is all installed pins are in heads are on the right side which is uh the left side if you're sitting on a seat she's ready for many years of use that's uh the basics of doing a chain coupler hope this helps and thanks for watching

Channel: That Oliver Guy - Chris Losey

Views: 7,668

Rating: 4.9694657 out of 5

Keywords: oliver, tractor, farm, white, equipment

Id: wVaw6Bo2MeU

Length: 16min 34sec (994 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 18 2020