Odd Jobs: A Mix of Many Small Jobs in the Shop

hello Keith rocker here at vintage machinery org so going to put together a little episode here I don't know that I'm gonna call this odds and ends but it really kind of is an odds and ends but unlike a lot of other odds and ends where I talk more about you know things going on and new tools and what-have-you this episode is really more odd jobs I guess so I came out to the museum this weekend and I really didn't have a big project to work on but what I did have it was just a bunch of little things that needed to be done and none of them by themselves really warranted putting together a full-length video on so what I do is I just kind of put them all together and so we got a lot of miscellaneous things that we're just doing out here in the shop this weekend I think I do have one ebay buy that we'll put in here just throw in the mix but all-in-all it's really more just a kind of a day of doing odd jobs out here at the Museum so I hope you enjoy in one of my previous editions of odds and ends I showed you guys these cutters here that were given to me up it stands RZ summer Bosch a month or so ago view or mine hand them to me said I don't know what they are once you put them on your video and see if we can figure out what these are use them as a mystery tool and I did I wasn't quite sure what they were I really thought they had something to do with counter boring they're very similar to some counter boring tools that I have where you have a little hole in here that it for pilot to go in but these are different each one of these holes inside of here is a different diameters are all fractional that ones are 3/16 that one's a 1/16 we got a 1/8 so all these different holes inside here are different so anyway I posted these on the video and had quite a few of you guys send back some information on this and told me what it was and what these are called they're called hollow mills and they were originally used on either a screw machine or turret lathe which are both specialized production lathes for turning out things and and what you would do is you would it would be a special holder that would hold this I don't have the holder but it would basically come up on the end of a piece of rod rod of course it's turning in the lathe and it would feed up inside of that hole in this outside mill with mill away all the excess material and leave the diameter to run up through the center and it was used for making things like production jobs for like screws and small bolts and things like that where you needed to turn that diameter of the rod very quickly into an accurate dimension so anyway I've got one set up over here on the regular lathe just chucked up and we're going to give it a try and see how it works so well I don't have the right holder to hold these I do have a big 20 in Super Chuck Jacob super Chuck so I've gotten it tucked up in there and we're going to give this a try how it work we'll move on it so there you go hollow mill in action first time I've ever seen a tool like that you know back years ago and I worked in the machine shop did a lot of turret lathe work did a lot did some screw machine work we have one little brown sharp screw machine but we really weren't ever making bolts and screws we were usually making other kind of parts on it so really never had a need for something like this I guess but as you can see if I was making a small bolt or a small screw you can see how that right there would save an awful lot of time in a production setting where you just set this thing up the screwed machine would be automatic it would come in change out tools and do all your your cutting or whatever so you would go in there with this part first create the diameter then another tool would come in either a screw head or a die head or a screw head or something like that that would cut the threads or screw pitches on there and then coming in and shape your head and part it off so it'd be a fairly simple process to crank out lots and lots of these parts using a hollow mill so anyway I've got a nice selection of these don't know what all they were using for if someone has a need for them let me know and we work something out so anyway thanks a lot and there you go the answer it's a hollow mill we got our new belting material in we're going to put on the advanced planer match right here and I keep getting questions about lacing belts even though I've covered this before so I thought I would go over it one more time how we do this so I got the belting material on here what I'm going to do is I'm going to pull this up just as tight as I can get it by hand and I've already got it on here I marked the line there this was over a previous cut but I've marked the length where it's just as tight as I can get it by hand and we're going to do is we'll cut this between 3/8 and 1/2 inch shorter than that which will give us enough tension when we put it all together so let's go in here and give that belt a cut when you cut the belt we need to make sure you've got a nice square edge and the way we usually this are used to it I guess I if we would just use a square and then take a razor blade or knife and just cut right down that and get a nice square edge but we've got a little bit better way to do that now with a new tool we picked up let me show you that so what we've got here is a belt cutter that's made for cutting belt square this is made by clipper belt laser company the same company that makes our of our lacing equipment and we got lucky actually found this for sale and little antique shop here locally in town and they wanted like 20 bucks for something then anyway we bought it and it has really been very useful out here for cutting belts so we're going to cut in here and again I want to I want to cut it just a little bit short so that it tightens up I put it flat up against the back there cutaway there we go now I've got a nice square cut so these are the cards that have the actual metal lacing that we're going to put on here and they come a little cardboard back that keeps everything oriented right so first thing we want to do is just cut this to length so I'm just going to lay it across the belt here and we will make using a good sharp knife just cut that trying to leave all your lacing in the cardboard back now we're over here at the lacing machine we've got a real nice setup here this is a floor mounted model they make these in several different configurations of this most simple kind you just use a vise it just has basically these jaws but there's a little comb in the bottom that has slots and what you do is you just take the lacing and you push it down through that comb it properly faces all the lacing there's a pin you put this across the bottom there's a little hole that captures all the lacing down there's going to form that the bottom around that pin which is just the base of the same diameter as a pin we're going to use the laces together with we'll pull the cardboard backing off now take our belt we're going to push it down making sure that it's all the way flat down on that comb in the back and squeeze those together pull out our pin and presto we have our lace have done let's do the other side so ready to put this together now I'll bring the two ends here together the lacing meshes up very nicely we put a pin down through here and the belt is laced there we go so here's a quick little project this came in shop friend of mine found this old Vice Rock Island Vice I think it is and it looked like originally it didn't have removable jaws on the other side it's all cast one-piece but looks like someone kind of tried to come here and put a jaw in there and really buggered it up so we're going to clean this up pretty good step in there and he's going to actually put a removable jaw in here so anyway I've got this clamped up on the milling machine here we just got it bolted down to the table I got a one inch in mill and we're going to go in here and see if we can clean that up and get a good nice a sharp clean area in there that he can put a put a pad in there we've got the jaw here that we're going to put on the vise and this is one he salvaged off of another vice was actually too long we cut it down we're going to use this one bolt hole here ah but we need a drill and counterbore another one so I've got a little sintered rose it's pretty hard met a little drill a little cut but we're going to use a sinner drill to get us a hole started and we'll punch a hole through there and counterbored that's funny to get me started now we'll drill the hole 5/16 go get a different grill bit hey nothing hard letter you slowed my drill down get a little oil put on it so while I was drilling out the trying to drill out the the vise jaw at the Museum I went through my drill index looking for a 5/16 drill that was sharp and I looked through there and I have all these drill bits and they've all got pre-cleared up phases and the ones that were decent I pretty much buggered up trying to drill through that hardened piece so I brought all these home with me and we're going to put them over here on the sellers real grinder and put a quick edge on these and get them all sharp again so I thought you guys might enjoy seeing that I did a video on this a while back but some of you guys may not see Matt so we'll show you how the drill sharpening is done on the sellers so the way this works is there's a little vise or little jaws in here that I'm going you can see that but they when you adjust them in and out they move in and out at the same time so itself centers - drill bit there's a little cup down here as the drill bit goes down in - and it will self Center into the bottom and basically you just clamp your clamp on the flute so your drill bit and now you've got the right angle to come in here and do this and you do one side flip it over and do the other side and I just continue doing that until until you get it sharp I can move it in and out right here I can go back and forth across the face here so let's do this one all right we ready start grinding so what we'll do is we'll bring this in until it just touches we just want to sneak up on it we're going to flip it around 180 degrees reach uh KITT and do it again and we'll just speed in a couple of thousands and continue this process until we work through and get them all sharpened usually doesn't take very much to put the fresh grind on these sheds let's see what we got that one there looks good you can see that in the video but I've got a good edge on it it's a little backstory on the tractor here before we crank it up last time we ran it we were again having a few problems with it and our guy here that works on these engines really felt like there's a problem with the carburetor so he took it home with him he completely took the carburetor apart put it back together when found some manuals on it and lo and behold he figured out exactly what the problem was so there's a two valves in here needle valves two just a flow of the gasoline into the carburetor is one for idle and there's one for Windows running under a load and they're both basically the same threads or both identical except for the length of the needle valves and at some point in time someone had put the needle valves in backwards from one another and they had the wrong needle valve on each side and we were not able to get the fuel running exactly like we wanted and that was really our problem we also pulled the valve cover off and you know we did a bunch of work on this engine and one of the nuts on the valves had kind of gotten out of adjustment where it wasn't properly open and closing the valve so we fix that put it all back together and what a difference it makes tractor is running much better now so we're going to see we create this thing up so each time we get through running the tractor what we'll do is we'll turn the fuel completely off and basically just let us see here in idle until it drains the gas out of the carburetor so when we come in here the first thing we have to do is turn the fuel back on and kind of let give it just a little bit of time to fill up in the bowl the carburetor to get gas running down through there I'm going to crack the throttle just a little bit put a little bit of choke on it make sure without a year we are this is a hand-cranked tractor so we're just going to turn the flywheel over I get it around here to where it's tight right there on the first stroke and see what happens whoo guys today is not again my day very frustrating so I got everything out here we got belted up on the machine got the tractor belt to the pad a little bit trouble getting the belts aligned finally got it running everything was running good and I realized there was a pair of pliers that was laying up on top up there and I was worried it was going to fall down in the scene fly shut everything down stop the belt and remove that and when I fired it back up the belt broke the leather belt I'm driving it with and took the splice out shorten the belts a little bit put it back together came out here hook it back up again God is spinning and the belt is starting to break again so I'm gonna have to get another belt I'm gonna look around out here and see if we got something before I go buy a new one but uh very frustrated I did have it running it ran for a couple minutes at full speed but the camera wasn't on from you guys to see it so I guess if the camera wasn't on it didn't happen at least that's what I've been told so you have to take my word and we'll give another try we should have our planar bolts coming in very soon so maybe next week we can run this thing we'll see we finally got a firm permit been burning this pile closed today and is finally burning really good hopefully we'll be able to get this done before dark because we're supposed to have the fire out by dark let's see the burn pile for the shop is on its way out finally well we've come a long way on the burn pile we say that thing on fire the other day I finally got a burn permit and burnt for about 24 hours and then we had a big thunderstorm came true and kind of put everything out so where we're at right now you know there was there were some pretty big trees that were in here and a lot of them kind of stretched outside of the main fire so what am I to do is get in here and I need my chainsaw and custom to stuff up I can hear the tractor and REE pile all this stuff into another pile a much smaller pile and I will burn it again and I finish it up quickly share with you guys a little Bay score that I came up with this week so I've been looking for I don't know several probably a month or two now trying to get a good deal on one of these this is a starett number 466 and what it is is it has different angles on it that you can use is kind of a reference if you're trying to determine what an angle is so you got down here like that's a that's a two degree angle now that one's got an eight degree angle you know 25 45 35 whatever so you know there's a whole range of angles in here and this is real handy for when you're working on something you need to kind of estimate an angle or figure out an angle you can put this right up into something and and just measure it with it and that works really good anyway I've been looking for one of these and you know they're several up on eBay $40 to $60 or something like that which is just a little more than what I really wanted for it it wasn't something that desperately needed right away so I said I'll be patient and see what I can find so this last week I was cruising along to eBay and I found an option a true auction not to buy me now but an auction that was selling what they were advertising as feeler gauges and I got to looking at and said that doesn't look like a feeler gauge and looked at it and sure enough it was actually the angle gauge neither there is one feeler gauge in here this is a Lufkin number 120 60 and it has it's in good shape which this is actually come in handy I've got a kind of a cheap feeler gauge that I have my toolbox I here to shop and this one's much nicer so it will replace my feeler gauge out here and additionally these other so-called feeler gauges you know what we have here this is actually a thread pitch gauge again this is made by Lufkin this is a number 74 C and it goes from 8 to 80 I think is the yeah so 8 is the courses thread right there and then it goes down to an 80 pitch which I have to get my magnifying glass out to see those teeny tiny anyway very nice thread pitch gauge that's going to probably go back to the house with me I've got a thread pitch gauge out here at the museum that I use but don't have a good one at home so this will go home with me and this other one is another thread pitch gauge these are for 60 degree threads and these are metric pitches and which I'm also kind of excited to have I've got a kind of an el cheapo metric thread pitch gauge that I use occasionally but this one is actually much nicer made in Germany mara stick I guess 60-degree anyway nice little fine here so anyway I was real tickled like I said it was up for a true auction not a Buy It Now and ibid I remember what I bid but I remember what I want it for I won this whole lot here for $10.50 and I think there was about four or five more dollars in shipping so you know 15 bucks to the door and picked up my angle gauge which I've been looking for plus some other really nice tools and probably would have sold for a lot more if the person selling it had properly identified the items in his auction so if you get creative and look at auctions rather than just searching on eBay sometimes you can find deals like this where the seller just doesn't know what they have and you lock up and get lucky so there you go so I thought I'd make up a couple of quick LED hammers gonna take a couple of these with me up to the arm test event in a couple of weeks to put into the auction base a little bit of money for a couple of good causes so anyway I've got my hammer mold out here you just simply take the handle let me show you how this works so you take this little clamp off there's a handle here and you can this is a just a regular handle made for these lead hammers that's made by cook a hammer company incorporated I I'm from the master car for about 20 bucks and anyway it fits right up into the camera mold like such the mold clamps down over it seals everything up just make sure your hammer handle is straight and what we're going to do is we're going to heat up this mold preheat it I've got some lead melting over here next to me on a in a melting pot we'll fill this ladle up here with hot lead and then just dip the handle back and it flows into the hammer mold and fills up the mold with what lead runs out of this little hole here it's full and you just let it sit there and cool so let's get to it so our lid is in the layout here I'm just kind of raking the slag and stuff off to the side you know when it's about charge this wooden stick it's about ready to pour so we're ready to go let's put some pre heat on the little mold all right well let this cool we've let this cool down now for I don't know about five minutes or so we melt that all right we got a little bit of an air pocket there in the top but you know I'm a functional standpoint not a problem that's a good hammer see we make another one we're getting second one ready here this one's got a little bit different style handle this is an old styled handle that it was given to me by one of my viewers actually was a beat-up hammer i melted the but was left off of the hammer and put this in the sandblaster bead blaster and we blasted it clean and going to freshen it up make a new hammer which is exactly what these molds were designed to do when you're when you're hammer head got beat up you would just make a new one I think we're about ready to pour so here we go got to lead hammers all cast up ready to go again we'll take these up to the iron fest event in a couple weeks and we're going to put these in the auction same by coming to arm fest you can bid on those and take them on with you so anyway these are real handy for doing all kinds of you know deadblow type stuff or you don't want to Mar anything up it need some weight to pound something in place or what have you I use them in the machine shop all the time and they're real handy and like I said before you know when they get messed up you just melt the mountain make canoe and reuse your handle old vintage handle here and a new style handle here with the rubber handle like the looks of this one but this one is really a lot more comfortable to use with that nice handle on there well that'll be a wrap thank you guys for watching as always thank you to my many subscribers out there if you haven't already please do hit that subscribe button and subscribe to the channel you'll get a little email update when new videos come out and kind of keep up with what's going on in shop so again thank you guys and we'll talk to you later you

Channel: Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org

Views: 108,214

Rating: 4.9726858 out of 5

Keywords: Machine Shop, Machinist, Lathe, Milling Machine, Restoration, Vintage Machinery, mrpete222, Mr. Pete, Tublican, Keith Fenner, Turn wright, Adam Booth, Abom79, Tom Lipton, Ox Tools, oxtoolco, myfordboy, Jody Collier, weldingtipsandtricks, Welding Tips and Tricks

Id: 7hY_AgO2rTg

Length: 31min 39sec (1899 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 18 2015