Normandy is wild here, the Cotentin peninsula: fish, mussels, crabs come straight from the sea to the table. The region is known for oyster farming, pears, pear calvados and quaint country villages. Mont-Saint-Michel is world famous and the most visited mountain in France. On the other hand, you often have the sandy beaches to yourself. Normandy is located in northwestern France. The journey begins on the Cotentin peninsula and heads south to Mont-Saint-Michel. It's busy in St. Germain. Once a month is Grandes Marées, the great tide. Then the water comes with a vengeance. After that it retreats far back. Then it is harvest time for the growers. Recreational fishermen are also out and about. Seafood picking is as popular a sport in Normandy as mushroom picking is elsewhere. Wild oysters far and wide. You need a good eye. Jean Louis comes regularly with his friend. He knows where the biggest oysters are and how to cook them. True oyster passion. You take a shallot, cut it into small pieces, fry it in a pan with some white wine and crème fraîche. A small spoonful of this sauce goes on each oyster. Now put the whole thing in the oven for 30 minutes. A real delicacy. Of course it also works like this: just try it on the spot. The oysters on the west coast: full-bodied, salty, really taste like the sea. And another tip from Jean Louis: be careful, the Grandes Marées is really crazy. Suddenly the water comes from here and from there and encloses you. So away from here. I also have an appointment with oyster professionals. The tractor takes you a long way from the beach to the oyster parks. There are more than 200 companies in the Cotentin, the oyster center of Normandy. Soon the tide is back, the heavy sacks with the oysters are reloaded. Anyone who can helps, including the junior manager. Do you only start work in the afternoon? Yes of course. And besides, the weather is nice too. They grow up in these sacks. Oyster farming takes time. four years. It takes four years for the oysters to be edible. Stefane rearranges the sacks five to six times during this time. He is the head of a typical family business. The northernmost point in the Cotentin, the Cape de La Hague. Barbara Homolka moved from Germany a few years ago with her husband and Border Collie Ben. She is a blogger, Cotentin expert and author of a crime novel. Of course, he also plays here in the wild Cotentin. Storm, waves, rain clouds at the Cap. It seems made for her. you have a smile on your face Yes, because that just makes you happy here! Because it's so original, so wild and so real and I love it! On tour with the expert. The sun is shining. Frequent weather changes are normal. She shows me her favorite places. Well, the Normans say it's France's smallest port. The Port Racine is really manageable. Only small boats have space and these are secured with double and triple lines against storms and against the tide. The villages are also weatherproof, with walls and houses made of quarry stone and granite. Barbara knows every corner here and the nicest cafes. The dog expert has a website "Chien Normandie". She gives tips for vacationers who are traveling with four-legged friends. Dog vacationers actually have other needs than someone who only comes here for a bathing vacation, is looking for the most beautiful beach or museums. Dog vacationers want to go hiking. They want to know where they are welcome with dogs. The Route de Cape runs along the coast. Cliffs, rocks, lush meadows, and a surprise awaits around every bend, sometimes even behind a church. Barbara didn't really want to show me this. And that's just the contrast. This is where the old nuclear fuel rods go for processing. But of course you also have to admit that this reprocessing plant in La Hague gives jobs to a lot of people here. Don't forget. This landscape here, with all these small hedges, we often have heathland in between. But this whole landscape is called Little Ireland, and it's also reminiscent of Ireland, including the weather by the way. The weather has changed again. Sunshine in Gruchy, birthplace of the famous painter Jean-Francois Millet. An old well, farmhouses, courtyards. The nineteenth-century artist found the loveliest motifs in the countryside. Barbara and her dog Ben have even found a new home in the Cotentin. The Route de Caps ends here, at the sandy beaches, dunes and one of the most beautiful coastal walks, at Cap de Carteret. You can also visit the old lighthouse. Including a museum. The landscape flattens out towards the south. Visit to Saint-Germain-sur-Ay, at the farm of oyster farmer Stefane. I had already met him at the sea. Here the work continues. The day before they had brought in the sacks of baby oysters. These are the oysters from spring 2022. There are 5,000 in a sack like this. Now they need space to grow. So pour out, sort and decant. About a hundred pieces are returned in a metal bag. I finally got it too. And then this sack goes back into the sea. Yes, exactly. Back to the sea in the afternoon. After four years they are mature, oysters from very large, number one, to very small, number four. And this one is only a year old. They produce 140 tons of oysters a year here. Stefane and daughter even have customers in Germany. And now one more test eater. And another oyster. Admittedly, not for everyone, and slurping also needs to be learned. But this one is very tasty. Granville, a port city of 13,000 people, divided into Lower Town and Upper Town. That's where the view of the sea is at its best, and that's also where the most magnificent villas are to be found. The birthplace of fashion designer Christian Dior, now a museum. Women's hats and Dior - a big topic. Marilyn Monroe, Marlene Dietrich, Grace Kelly, half of Hollywood was crazy about his unusual creations. The stars made the hats famous. In the fashion world, they became indispensable. Only the creations for yourself were much simpler from lunchtime at the port, a fish shop with an oyster bar, typically Normandy, lobster, crabs, mussels. Everyone can put together their plate according to their personal taste. Everything directly from the port and therefore not particularly expensive. This couple from southern France also seems to like it. At least the wine. Cheers! A detour to the Route Poire. The pear route leads through Domfrontais, which is hardly known to tourists. For the locals, it's pear country. We're going to the pear farmer now. Because there are not only apples in Normandy, there are also plenty of pears here. This is used to make juices, calvados and pear sparkling wine poiré. I definitely want to try it. The trees are everywhere along the roadside, they are full of fruit. It's harvest time. Arrive at a typical pear farm. Seems to be a good year. pears! Some trees are very old. Nuomi, the daughter-in-law in the family business, has the offspring in her arms. She shows me trees that are 300 years old. Incredibly planted long before the French Revolution. The fruits are rather small, the old giants up to 20 meters high. Only what falls on the ground is harvested. Hard work with around a thousand trees, 200 tons come together every year. Frederik, the boss and Nuomi's father-in-law. This is a poir de blanc, our main variety. pear testing. Here we go. This is actually pear sparkling wine, tastes really good, very aromatic and sweet. Rarely eaten such a delicious pear. Next tree, next variety. There are 30 different ones, that can take a while. It's a bit sour. And she's particularly angry. I'll try them anyway. That's right, Frederic, pulls everything together. Sour but tasty. These varieties are very tasty. Do you eat that too? No, no, no. We use these pears for juice. poiré And Calvados. But we have yummy, yummy pears to eat. Is there anything better? Yes, exactly. It's actually about this: junior manager Simon shows me the winery: cleaning, washing and pressing the fruit. What becomes of it: juices, Calvados, and around 45,000 bottles of pear sparkling wine. The Poiré is a protected regional brand with an AOP rating. Sante! Taste premiere for me: fruity, semi-dry, 5% alcohol. tasting ended. It's 1:00 p.m. and we're in the middle of France. Time for a hearty lunch. The whole family is gathered, little Jeanne with parents Simon and Nuomi and grandparents Katherine and Frederic, three courses plus cheese. What is it actually? French country chicken. Also delicious with pear juice. Country life can be really nice. Hopefully a glass for lunch won't hurt. The last stop on our journey is Mont-Saint-Michel. The Monastery in the Sea is the most famous attraction in Normandy and a World Heritage Site. Around 3.5 million visitors come every year, most of them by car. Good for the parking lot owner. Oh, the trifle of 15 euros for parking. Small consolation. The bus shuttle from the car park and back is even included. But the walk is nicer: half an hour in the fresh air. Mont-Saint-Michel is the only uncrowded corner of southern Normandy. Good this way. In fact, the rest of the Cotentin is quiet. Wild nature and solitude, that's what makes the area special.
