No machine work BUDGET 454 engine build for BOOST returns

all right we're back here with the 454 budget build i know you guys have been wanting to see it ralphie has been on me like crazy when we're going to get the big boy motor built well it's finally time it's been so long because i've had to save my money up and get my envelope built up to buy this stuff it ain't free i had to buy some stuff used find some deals on stuff so i'm going to go through the table here and show you what we've got what we're going to install on the motor today and hopefully we'll get this thing buttoned up so we got the cheapest chinese rocker arms money can buy wife actually got me that for my birthday and we got single groove crank pulley same thing with the water pump pulley down there fuel pump block off plate cheapest one china makes we've got an 86 dollar camshaft down there hydraulic uh flat tap it from summit racing cheapest hydraulic lifters you can buy i did go big on the head gasket because this is going to be a twin turbo build eventually we went with chromatic head gaskets went with the finished ones i could get to keep some compression in this motor we went good too on the arp head studs uh because i've had some experience of boosting motors with head gasket issues got some double valve springs for a hydraulic flat tappet cam with new retainers and locks got a cheap bolt kit for it this is the big thing i've been waiting on i was thinking about going new on the heads but i really couldn't afford it so bought a set of used pro comp speedmaster heads from uh facebook marketplace and got them we're gonna put the springs on because they didn't come with them these hands are rectangle port because you know we had this motor came factory with peanut port heads and i could have went oval port you know it could have went cast iron yes but i really want aluminum rectangle port heads to save weight same thing with the water pump i got a deal on an aluminum water pump and a swap meet uh i also got a smoking deal on a single plane dominator flange intake and a swap meet got a new myodone oil pump got some valve covers from holley also got a distributor from holley and we got some koi's uh timing gear we're gonna get this stuff installed on our motor so hopefully we got all the correct parts and they all bolt together you know how it is you get a bunch of random parts like this trying to make a hot rod and they don't always go together like you think they will so we'll see what we run into on this thing i want to try to figure up exactly what i got all this stuff and get a running total for you guys if you watch the earlier videos you can see this thing has hyper eutectic uh pistons or just cheap old dome top pistons uh and it's also got some chinese h-beam rods in it we just threw them in there didn't balance anything reuse a stock block reuse the stock crank put new bearings in it so go back and watch the old video if you haven't watched it already it'll show you what we've done up to this point we got rocky in here for uh quality control he checks all our clearances and everything cleans all the parts before we put them on the motor that way we don't have any issues right rocky so this motor's been hanging out on the stand for i don't know six months at least now and we've had it in a trash bag with oil on the motor trying to keep it from rusting or getting dirty first thing we're gonna do is i'm gonna run a 7 16 by 14 tap through all the head bolt holes to get any kind of dirt out of those we don't want those studs to go down into a hole that has a bunch of trash in it it's going to mess up our torque specs so that's the very first thing we're going to do you always need to do this when you're putting new studs or bolts in now i'm doing this with the engine upside down that way any trash that we're getting out of those threads is going to fall on the ground instead of going down in the bore [Music] am i doing it right you can't eat a tap okay here you don't see it you approve okay it hits you every time it comes around it's not going to change okay this back one here has really got something bad in the threads i don't know it's like i'm running into a big hunk of metal or something maybe i'm getting past it now all right let's spin the other side at the bottom and go through those threads we don't need wires this one's the same deal it's really got a tight spot in it i don't know it's like george clooney in that movie oh brother where are though we're in a tight spot he's up in that barn didn't you watch it guys i did all right we got all the threads cleaned out on these headphone holes on this big heavy thing that one i think it's going to be all right the top spot in the threads appears to be lower than what the studs are going to go down we'll see when we go to put together i'll go ahead and give you the cam specs on our 86 dollar summit cam this cam is so cheap it didn't even come with a cam card or assembly lube or anything and uh this thing now is 78 dollars on summit racing they went down the price since i bought it which has just burned my biscuits but i looked the specs up here's what they are 228 238 at 50 000 540 lift and 114 lobe separation angle so this is a bigger cam than what i had in my 460 turbo project in my maverick if you watch those old videos it had a 500 lift summit racing cam so this is a little bit bigger than what the maverick had in it so this cam has quite a bit of junk on it probably wouldn't matter it's probably just some sort of whatever they wash it with but i'm gonna go ahead and clean that off and put some assembly lube on this camshaft if you watch the first video of us putting this engine together we actually put assembly lube on the cam bearings all the way back through there when the crank was out that way we have assembly all the way at the back of the motor uh since we can't really get to there now you really want to put the cam in first but at the time when i built this six months ago i did not have a cam yet that's why i didn't do the cam first so we got our hydraulic lifters here you always want to soak your hydraulic lifters in oil bless you ralphie because the uh the oil will get all inside there because these things are full of wool on a hydraulic lifter i always put them in a bucket full of wool and we had some viewers send us some some gloves i'm using today and also a model car kit i know this came from mac but i can't remember the name of the guy who sent these but we do appreciate them we definitely need them and we'll use them we're just going to spray it down with some brake cleaner to get that stuff off i'll wipe it down with a a rag and that way we know it's clean we got our engine assembly lube here uh it's the same stuff we used on the rest of the motor but it says with molly graphite so maybe it's good i don't know i got it from o'reilly's and uh i'm gonna put assembly label on these and start sticking this camshaft in the motor just like toothpaste so on a flat tappet camshaft on these older motors from you know whatever the mid 80s and back had flat tap at cams they are pretty susceptible to having issues on startup on killing a lobe so the most important things i would recommend is lubricating the camshaft which most camshafts that cost you know more than the price of a tank of gas come with assembly lube and you would just put assembly on on the lobes and on the bearings here the bearing surfaces here also pre-lubing the motor with like a a screwdriver on a drill pull the distributor out and pre-load the motor that's very important and also you're supposed to run them around like 2000 rpm and fluctuate the rpm for usually like 20 minutes when you first crank them up so all those things are important also flat tappet cams are really supposed to have zinc in the oil so you might want to put a zinc additive in your oil or buy oil that has zinc already in it um to make sure you don't hurt your cam lobe so you don't want to to nick a cam branch just be really gentle you need some sort of a handle i'm just using the the uh gear for my timing chain i bought a double roller timing chain for this thing since we're going to have more spring pressure and a bigger cam in it also when if you are installing new cam bearings uh it's always good to use the actual cam you're going to run because i've ran into that where they put new cam bearings in at the machine shop and they didn't use the cam that i had and now the camera don't fit in the motor so you always want to test fit the actual cam you're going to run okay there we go it's in there and it spins that's good we got our three jaw puller on here we're going to pull the old lower cam sprocket off because it's just a single single chain and we're going to a double chain got all the nasty oil cleaned off there hopefully this thing is correct and fits and all that stuff i really need a driver that fits around the outside of this to put even pressure on it but i don't have that right now i think we got it bottomed out on there now it feels more solid i'm hitting it really lightly and just working my way around pebbles we're out here in the storage building looking for the cam plate for that camshaft to install it because i moved everything out here into into totes because i have too many projects going at the same time hey there's rocky look at rocky oh look [Music] this is pebbles mama over here the white mama over here and there's granny go hey granny granny's the nicest one out here she can't hear a thing she's totally deaf hey pebbles oh i went right on good thing i have my safety flip flops on that would have hurt my toe if it was but i had something else on come on oh buddy rocky maybe stubborn little thing there you go all right now we just got to find it down in here got to clean that guy up too i kind of like these factory valve covers really i just wasn't sure if i'd have enough clearance for roller rockers with them okay well we've dug through all this the cam plate's not in here this is what happens when you leave something sitting for six months so i gotta dig somewhere else in the shop and find the cam plate i just have absolutely no idea where it's at right now i'm gonna let this thing soak while we're doing other stuff because uh that thing is really grimed up like a typical you know old motor that's been sitting forever all right well after looking all over the place for a cam plate for like an hour i figured out that even though it has bolt holes for it it does not actually have a cam plate so yeah ricky move there once again six months of waiting i forgot about so i'm not one in fancy people that like degrees to cam in uh me and my dad have done it before years ago when i was a kid but uh honestly every car i built since then i just line the dots up and i'm done so we put some loctite on the cam bolts you can also use uh you know there's like a cam lock plate or whatever you call it that goes behind the bolts you bend the tabs over the bolts there's a couple different ways to do it or you know i've done it without any lock tight and i've never had any trouble with that either so just kind of however you want to do it just like i told you guys in the last video every time you put a new thing in a motor you want to turn that thing 360 degrees and make sure nothing is uh you know binding up on you you can look down in there and see the cam spin down in the motor i'm going to start assembling the valve springs on this cylinder heads here and these intake valves are 2.25 inch and the exhaust is 1.88 these also have a 119 cc combustion chamber and they have a 320cc intake runner it looks like somebody has probably done some a little bit of work to importing at some point because these were used i if i haven't told you i paid 800 bucks for these things used uh from a local price these heads had three shims on them so i'm trying to figure out the correct installed height to get the pressure we need on the high end on a hydraulic flat tap it big block chevy uh you need to be at like 330 pounds of open pressure and 130 pounds on close pressure but that's on the high end so we're going to try to get close to that i don't want to wear the cam out too soon either but uh that's what we're kind of shooting for we got the exhaust to the correct installed height which is 1.875 inches the way i was able to achieve that was i had to take all three of the shims someone else had put on here off for some reason the installed height is totally different from the intake to the exhaust so this had a two inch installed height this is how it was set up this had a 1.82 so i took all the shims out of here to get it to 1.875 and i added them to this one and we're at about 1.90 so i may have to get some more shims like 20 was that 25 000 shims or whatever to get this at the correct height when you get something used like this you always want to inspect everything and these have just came from the machine shop is what i was told it appears that they've had a valve job and already been lapped in that's also what i was told so i'm just going to put a little grease on the guides i always like to do that to make sure everything's lubricated good and we're going to put the springs on this thing you really need to do a lot of research when you're picking valve springs because you these are pounds per inch that means you can do the math and divide it out by you know for every hundred thousandths how many pounds of pressure that is so you could install these a little too tall or a little too short and taller it is the less pressure you're gonna have the tighter is the more pressure you're gonna have so do the math figure out your spring pressures figure out what the recommended pressures are because whether you've got a small block or a big block whether you've got a roller or a flat tap it or mechanical or hydraulic it's all those have different pressures i mean it would be nice to have one of those air powered or hydraulic whatever they are valve spring compressors we have literally been working on this one head right here doing measuring and checking everything for like what a couple hours now ralphie it's been a couple hours and we're on the last valve spring now on this first cylinder head so i checked the height on every single one as we went to make sure we're good so we got we had to take the all the shims off all the intake ones and put them on all the exhaust so we doubled up the shims on the exhaust because the installed height is totally different on on every single uh exhaust versus this thing is really not made to be used with high pressure springs like this so what i always do is once i get the springs installed i like to take a hammer and tap tap them to seat the retainers in there oh my gosh my knees cannot handle being bent like that for so long in my lower back i beat my body up working too many hours guys on every other motor i've ever built including the big block i put in the maverick i always use a single valve spring uh basically because simplicity's sake and i was cheap and all that stuff so this is a double valve spring with a damper in there and one of the big advantages to having a double valve spring is aside from the extra pressure um you can if you break this valve spring you still have a spring on the inside that'll catch your valve and keep from ruining your engine if you haven't thought about that that is an advantage we're on our second head now and uh it always helps to use some grease some sticky grease to hold these locks in place here we go final one what's it been roughly four hours between the two heads yeah probably yeah probably four hours worth of work i gotta clean a little bit of dirt off these heads too before we install got some brake cleaner here i ran over the surface of this head with some 320 sandpaper on a block just to make sure that uh i didn't have any burrs or anything from where these things have been transported now i'm taking some brake cleaner and cleaning the oil off the top of the block because this thing had been sitting with oil on it we're gonna put our head gaskets on here obviously komatic would probably recommend us you know resurfacing this block and head to a certain ra value or whatever but you know we're not going to do that we're just putting it on there with the stock finish on the block same thing with the head and we're going to see if it works so i went with a 30 000 thick kinetic head gasket because i'm wanting to build all the compression i can so this is a 30cc dome top hypereutectic piston 4.25 bore four inch stroke 30 thousandths head gasket pistons 40 000 in the hole and it has a 119 cc combustion chamber so all put all that together in your little magic calculator and it should be about 9.8 to 1 compression this is also going to be a turbo motor uh but the reason i'm running more compression is i'm planning on running this on ethanol so i really like the advantages of having compression and boost works well together if you have enough octane well because this is not a big block ford it actually threads into the water jacket and so we're going to put this thread sealer stuff on there and uh use it and hand tighten these studs down in the block so we don't have any leaks i'm just going to put four studs in it for now and set the head over on over it and then thread each individual stud with the head already installed on there i think it'll be kind of hard to set the head over all the studs at once oh the big moment you don't know how long i've been waiting for this right here yes and you'll notice that the threads on top are fine and the threads on the bottom are coarse they go in the block so there's a lot of advantages to doing a stud that's one of the advantages um you know also your yours your clamping force is better with a stud than a bolt this thing has three different length head bolts so you kind of gotta watch what you're doing or you'll put them in the wrong spot uh it's pretty easy to get mixed up we're putting our arp moly lube on all our threads i coated the washers in them before i dropped them down on the heads and uh you have to do that to get the correct torque reading according to arp so make sure you do that one so you're supposed to tighten these in in three equal increments and the final torque spec is 80 pounds so that's what we'll do i guess you know looks like i'm gonna have to take these uh guide plates off because it sticks out too far and is in the way of the socket pull these out grind down the guide plate a little bit and put some loctite back on and put them back in usually with a torquing out a cylinder head usually the sequence is starting in the middle and then working your way out as you go so that's what we're gonna do here i'm gonna start with 40 pounds and then we're gonna do 60 and then 80. i meant to say when i put the head gasket on there but i checked and kinetic recommends not spraying copper spray on the head gaskets because they come with a coating on them so that's why i did not copper spray the head gaskets when i put them on there just put them on they're dry like they recommended man we're on the last step now 80 pounds this uh torque wrench i've used it for like 15 years hopefully it's accurate man when i torque the heads on that big block ford i think they were like 140 foot-pounds it was ridiculous i couldn't hardly do it okay that's it we got this head installed now we just gotta do the same thing on the other side and we will have these beautiful aluminum heads all bolted down [Music] there we go come on big boy okay got our last stud in there with our sealant on there our thread sealer just got to put some moly lube on her washers and studs and get these things bolted down you're also supposed to torque the heads down before the the thread sealer that you put on the end of them uh drives same story here we got two of the god plates that are right in the way so we're gonna take them out of the way to get this head bolt there we go last one awesome heads on there it's been a long time coming for me this is like one of the dream motors i wanted to build i love big blocks [Music] put our red loctite on there that way we don't have a screw-in stud back out so we got all those clearance we'll say and uh got them bolted back down so hopefully we can take our heads off without taking our guide plates off next time i mean next time i blow the heads off this thing with 30 pounds of boost and have to try to take these out in the car which is probably impossible i want to go ahead and put the oil pump on this thing i didn't have a new one when we put the crank and stuff in it so i'm gonna do it now this is a high volume and high pressure pump so i spent the big bucks on it you know like 90 bucks or something engine assembly lube in there just to help those gears out on dry start even though we're not really going to dry start it we're going to pre-lube this motor got to clean up our old oil pump drive shaft i'm going to reuse it and uh find our new little collar that goes on in the gasket set ellie's in here helping us now i don't know what she's doing what are you doing ellie huh you being good today you're never good she's too hyper to be good if you don't know it inside there if you knock that pin out and put some like washers or shims in there you can up your oil pressure by doing that if you didn't know that already hopefully this thing will give us enough extra oil pressure to make up for all my shortcomings on assembling this thing i should probably have a pop in this thing to turn it but of course i took the time to do that ralphie's gonna get our lifters here yeah that smooth part goes to the bottom and it goes down in the holes at the top yeah the holes at the top yes you got it is it going down there smooth yeah okay yeah now you just gotta do it 15 more times so these are hydraulic flat tappet lifters which is kind of ancient technology nowadays everything's yeah roller what did you get it what do it like extra foam it's because look it's because this the lobe on this lobe of the cam is up that one's down that's why what do you think about this motor ralphie i mean oh sorry engine uh do you think he's gonna be fast yeah [Music] i just don't like it you don't like putting together too much too too much time i just like the after part yeah should be the most powerful motor we built i mean the 6 liter in the starlet was probably close but not not as many cubic inches this should make a little bit more than the starlet made on motor the real reason ralphie got involved with this is he wanted to stick his hands in the oil we gotta get some gloves your size instead of extra larges we need a smaller size no i'm good thanks get off you even remember me owning the maverick at all are you you were too young at the time i was like uh you're probably like you're probably like four years old or something when i sold it something like that four or five something like that gloves stuck in there oh okay did it tear no yeah no let's see yeah i think we're good he's got an incredible amount of wool on the floor walking back and forth this motor just slinging all everywhere we'll check her i took the marker uh sharpie marker marked on top of the valve stem and we're going to tighten these rockers down to their setting at zero last or whatever and then we're gonna see where the wear pattern is okay unforeseen issue the poly locks that came with this are the wrong thread pitch for these studs so i'm gonna have to buy a different poly locks that's wonderful news she's been dying to open the new parts so okay maybe you should lay the box down that'd be good so these are our valve covers we got from holly let's see if they look as good as they do on the box [Music] man look at that so they're the black fabricated ones they're all i guess tig welded and everything look chevrolet right there they didn't have any there that said ford that fit this motor that's weird don't scratch them up against each other oh look it comes with a new bolts i didn't even have to buy bolts for it well didn't they just go the extra mile you love it it's beautiful isn't it you like it and this is our distributor man look at that billet son only the best huh now the reason you could go a lot lot cheaper on the distributor if you were just wanting to run like a normal hei distributor and run a carburetor but we're running fuel injections so this is a dual sink distributor and from what i understand that means it's basically the cam and the crank sensor for this motor so you have to have that if you're going to run some sort of fuel injection you have to have a way for it to see a crank and cam signal unless you're running batch fire then you just need a crank signal but yeah this thing is awesome i like how it's small i don't like the size of those big huge ati distributors but that's pretty cool huh you like it what else comes in there what is that there's all kinds of stuff oh that's the hold downs for the uh plug wires there's a wiring harness it's got some assembly lube stuff that thing's awesome it probably would have saved me a lot of time and hassle of cleaning this just to buy a new timing cover that already had a new ceiling i've seen people do that before but you know me being a child of the great depression i just can't do that i can't throw nothing away well mom brought us out a heater she bought today so we're going to try to light this thing right ralphy got some heat out here this is our only source of heat in this 60-foot building there we go got the front seal out of this timing cover get the new one knocked in there so i don't have a seal installed so work my way around try to keep it even don't let one side get a bolt slower than the other side i'm putting a really thin coat of former gasket on the timing cover and the block both i'm a fan of former gasket i know some people hate it some people love it just don't use it real thick that's the problem you don't want to get a bunch of former gasket in your motor and it'll clog up your pickup tube or something but uh yeah just put it on thin i'm gonna put some assembly lube on this chain too because it you know everything needs a little bit of oil to get started man after you built a couple ls motors or any kind of modern engine man this seems ancient right here they're using all these old paper gaskets and when they meet up and corners and don't seal up good i'm gonna paint this motor after we get it totally assembled together so that's why i didn't paint the timing cover yet you don't want to especially on a piece of like sheet steel like this you don't want to just crank on it and try to get every bit of force you can usually just want to snug these things up you'll get the feel for it so this water pump right here i got at a swap meet for 30 i could not believe it the only bad part about it is chrome so we're gonna probably paint it black if i'm guessing if i know me so people who watched all the way back on the tear down of this motor back when we very first bought it and it broke a valve um this had a long water pump on it from the factory and this is a short aluminum water pump so aside from the weight savings we're saving an inch and a half of distance up here which you know we're going to be putting this in a in a car so we definitely would be good to have that extra inch and a half up front to save and the bolt that came with this water pump uh bolt kit the bolt kit i bought uh didn't have the correct bolt there so we're just putting a this janky bolt in there this pulley and water pump is too fancy for me but i didn't buy this uh pulley set up either because it was fancy in chrome it just happened to be the cheapest one i could get because i want a single groove crank pulley and the shortest water pump and pulley up i could get to give me the most room to swap this in a car we just thought that our studs were messed up i talked to rocky about it and he noticed that actually the threads if you look the last couple threads are a little boogered up so um apparently i'm just gonna have to run a die over these studs so we're gonna turn the motor upside down and run a die over that don't mess with the heater we'll get burned and uh figure out if we can fix these with just a die i believe that's all we're going to do i didn't think about the lifters being in there so i can't really turn it all the way over we're about to lose our lifters out anyway i know these heads kind of got traded around a little bit and set the machine shop so it probably got beat on the table a few times and that's what our problem is if it didn't like before it's probably gonna leak now don't break the heater no [Music] no can you turn it on no just the end zone is messed up because it doesn't seem to have any kind of issue on down farther they just got tapped on the end super clayton sent us some uh oil absorber and rocky's trying his best to eat it if he can he uh likes to eat something like that i guess we can use this right now can't we oh cool it's like wood shavings or something didn't it here's a good look at the threads just a little bit you know it doesn't take hardly anything and they won't start okay now we're gonna actually try and get our rocker arms on there set our last turn this motor over and see if our push rods are the correct length or not so you want to make sure you're not on the high point of the cam lobe you're on the actual base circle part and on the hydraulic like this spin the push rod until it stops and that then you're at zero lash and everybody will tell you something different people say quarter of a turn three quarters turn half a turn one turn i'm just going to do half a turn and then that's going to be our that that one's set and then do the same thing with the next one now we're going to turn the motor over and see uh what it looks like let's see our mark should be in the center of the valve stem if the push rods are the correct length and we are just just barely on this side with the was that the exhaust valve let's see what our intake looks like it's just barely on the other side but both of them are really close to the center i'll give you a close-up here's what i'm talking about this is the exhaust one we're center but we're just barely off center to the outside and this one is just barely off center to the inside head bolts no head bolts it's not good so that should mean that this one's just barely too long on the exhaust side and barely too short on the intake side but being that it's really close to the center that's good enough for the girls i hang out with so we're just going to run them it's weird how these canon valve motors have two different link push rods i'm used to inline engines mainly that you know have all one length push rods you want to make sure you have the flat edge of your roller trunnion or whatever that's called in there pointing up these are 1.7 ratio rocker arms which i believe is factory ratio for a 454 like this smaller ratio if you didn't want quite as much lift on the cam that's kind of a old-school way to make a little bit bigger cam you go from a one seven to a one eight or get a small block you go from a one five to a one six or one seven something like that give you just a little bit more lift out of your teeth i'm gonna go through and put a little dab of this uh assembly label and tips these push rods too just to make sure everything's good and lubricated so once again get to zero lash and then half a turn or three quarter or a quarter or one turn whatever you like you lock this polylock down and then i'll keep it from backing off and i'll reset these when we get them in the car uh the best way to do it in my opinion is do it when it's running you back it off till you hear it start ticking when it stops taking you at zero and then give your half a turn now that we got all the rockers adjusted we got our nice rubber valve cover gasket on there and we're gonna set our our holley valve covers on here and get this bolted down man oh i'm a fan of the fabricated aluminum valve covers i really do like them you're you're really going to eat my car keys rocky no quit it amazes me what he wants to eat literally anything and everything what do you want to write down don't eat it you know this is the thing that always i always fell in love with with the big block chevys was the big wide valve covers any big block you know a hemi or a big block chevy or big block ford something with a big wide valve cover it just always looks so cool to me so let me show you here why i chose to go from a peanut port head to a rectangle port head because you can see here this is an oval port intake gasket so a peanut port is even smaller and lower than that you can see because anytime you can get your intake port up taller same thing with your exhaust the taller the port is if you're looking at a nascar engine or an ls engine the ports are way up high any sort of modern engine so you always want your ports to be taller not you know sometimes bigger is not always the right answer but you know having a tall efficient runner uh is really good now i've got the correct intake gaskets for it and also another thing you want to watch out for is you don't want the gasket to droop all the way down and you have a lip here so i'm going to lift this gasket up as we bolt the intake on when we final assemble the intake we're going to dummy the intake up on here just to show you what it looks like because uh we're not you know we don't want to leave it on the engine to put it in the car so i'm not going to fully install it right now and in my opinion i just throw these things away right here i just always use a b to form a gasket at the front and back it seems to seal up better than these things do uh when you put the intake on all right big moment again here we go now this intake i i bought it at a swap meet at the hot rod order swapped me for 45 bucks because apparently one of these holes for the dominator flange is drilled a little bit at the wrong angle or something so we're gonna have to drill and tap that at some point but yeah i got a deal on this intake i couldn't believe it so the plan for this thing when we get in the car is it's supposed to be run on terminator x computer and we're going to run you know obviously fuel injectors probably going to have a big intake elbow with like a 102 millimeter ls throttle body that's the plan but since i don't actually know what this motor is going in yet uh if i told you i would be lying because i really don't know uh we may have to do different things about the height the intake so that's why i'm not permanently doing it either we got our nice billet looking distributor here from holley and like i said it's a dual sink for a fuel injection setup you want to make sure it drops all the way down flush with the intake that way you know that you uh are engaged in the oil pump if you're finally assembling this you would want to put a gasket under that but not second piece i like the size of it like the looks of it we're going to reuse this factory harmonic balancer for now eventually if we get real serious about drag racing this thing at the track we may switch to an sfi approved one so we can pass tech in a big track or anything but for right now we're just going to reuse this one these motors are externally balanced so it has a counterweight on one side of the inside of this harmonic balancer our water pump pulley's in the way i gotta take it back off i didn't think about this thing being in the way at all i don't know why second attempt there we go we got our uh harmonic balancer install tool i got this thing at ls fest one year had a deal because it was missing one attachment and uh it's really a good tool i've enjoyed using it gotta make sure your keyway is in the right spot when you do this this is better than trying to hammer it on and beating the thrust bearing out of your crank or or using the bolt to pull it down i mean i've done both of those in my pass but we all have a pass you know got all the way till it stopped right there now we just gotta put the crank bolt in put the the pulley on the crank and we'll have all that done a little loctite on there so it doesn't back out on us back on for the second time it looks like it lines up perfect so we're good there uh the reasons why we're not putting on a oil pan today or an alternator is because we still don't know exactly what car this is going in so once we figure out exactly what it's going to go in we're going to get the correct oil pan and pick up tube um we're also going to get the correct alternator mount and the correct headers or manifolds we're going to use same thing with the intake uh when we figure out exactly what's going in we will put it on there that's why you need to stay tuned to our channel because eventually this is going in some car and it's going to go fast and it's going to be twin turbo and it's gonna be awesome i ordered this thing it was like eight bucks and uh i didn't think we had a block off plate for some reason and then uh when i was going through those bags i realized there was a factory stamped steel one but we already got this it's cleaned up it's new so we're gonna put it on there okay i sat down add everything up which you never want to do as a hot rodder don't try it kids don't do it well i gave 400 dollars for this engine which i only ended up using basically the block and the crank out of it uh then i had eight dollars in the block off plate i had 67 in the pulleys i had 181 dollars in the arp head studs they're part number 235-4113 i had a hundred dollars in the myodon oil pump and that is part number 18760 had a 139 dollars in the ebay roller rockers i had 38 dollars in the melling uh double roller timing chain 29 dollars in 1 000 under engine tech main bearings i had 42 dollars in the stainless steel bulk kit which i ended up barely using any of those um 220 dollars in the hyper eutectic 30cc dome top pistons and they came with molly rings i got 21 dollars in the connecting rod bearings that are 1 000 thunder i have 344 dollars in the i-beam rods that are 6.135 inches long from ebay i have a hundred and eighty two dollars in the valve spring kit which is uh hrs-98636-k11 from howard's cams i have 166 dollars in the cam kit which came with the lifters that's part number s-u-m-k-1302 i had 172 dollars in the head gaskets from kimetic which are c5432-030 i paid 800 for these speedmaster heads used uh they're 320cc like i was saying before rectangle ports 408 dollars for the uh distributor for the dual sink so we can run fuel injection on this thing i got uh 166 dollars in these holley valve covers part number one 241-281 dollars in the uh swap meet water pump i have forty five dollars in the swap meet ebay style fuel injection intake and eighty one dollars in the trick flow uh engine gasket set which came with the rectangle port intake gasket it's tfs-4140e913 and so for a total of six hundred and 3630 nine dollars in this engine uh so there's the total guys never add up your parts uh don't ever tell your wife but we also saved over a hundred pounds between the aluminum heads the aluminum intake aluminum water pump all that stuff adds up so you know this thing i don't know what how this would weigh compared to all cast iron small block chevy or small block ford or something like that but i would think this is probably similar weight now with all the aluminum parts well guys we're to the end of another video you know what that means time for some rc colas and some bananas what are they so scared of it's not like i'm going to spray this all over them so i hope this helps some of you guys and maybe you learned something maybe i need to learn something put in the comments below try to be nice you know remember guys eat your vinas drink the juice it's healthy right it's healthy right this is pebbles rockies baby check us out on instagram facebook even tick tock now sleeperdude88 is our handle on all those below you can buy some of the merchandise or click on my username go to the store button you buy some merchandise you can also check out our second channel slipperdude2 i'll put up some clips of what i do for a living i also put up some short clips of what we do around here and we really appreciate you guys watching and we'll put this motor in something and we're going to go fast so stay tuned for all that

Channel: Sleeperdude

Views: 261,529

Keywords: Chevy, Chevrolet, 396, 400, 402, 427, 454, 502, 540, 572, 632, Big, Block, Small, Build, Modifying, Mods, Performance, How, To, Assembly, Assemble, Reassemble, Horsepower, Hp, 500, 450, 550, 600, 650, Mark, Gen, IV, VI, No, Machine, Work, At, Home, Built, Aluminum, Heads, Intake, Water, Pump, Ford, Dodge, Hemi, Holley, Torque, Diy, Powerblock, Tv, Garage, Junkyard, Cheap, Cheapest, Budget, Inexpensive, Thrifty, Drag, Race, Racing, Fast, Turbo, Turbocharged, Supercharged, Nitrous, twin, vice, digs, jay, lenos, grip, family, animals, goats, dog, pig, high, compression, boost

Id: -WU3OHWhxAU

Length: 47min 26sec (2846 seconds)

Published: Mon Dec 06 2021