New Wheel Studs and Tires! | Working on the Old Ford LTL9000

this is from the right hand side of the truck so it has rightand threads this is on our left side driver's side has leftand threads [Music] [Music] few of the wheel studs were actually stripped in the inner cap nut the part that holds the inner dual on on the bud wheel was loose on the main stud so you couldn't get everything torqued up properly so I pulled the back wheels off go ahead and address this issue try to figure out do we have some strip threads on the studs on the the inner cap nuts let's dive into it and see what we find so our new wheel studs came in we're ready to put this guy back together you can see the new one that actually has threads and the old one that used to have threads this is from the right hand side of the truck so it has rightand threads this is on our left side driver's side has leftand threads originally I thought we were just going to change these studs back to the length they were fix the strip ones put together then I started thinking about it hey maybe these studs are too short because this thing has all aluminum wheels maybe it was set up for steel wheels on the inside someone convert it didn't increase the length of the stud so after doing all this work swapping Wheels swapping tires around converting to Steel iners we came to the conclusion that that doesn't help you and I'll show you the difference so this is the inner cap nut for a steel wheel and this is the inner cap nut for an aluminum wheel now this one here is for a steel steel because it's shorter where this one is for a aluminum with aluminum that's why you have this part for the inner wheel and this length for the outer wheel but the reason that the inner wheel doesn't really change your stud length you can see in the threads at the end now even though the steel wheel is shorter this guy presses up against the steel wheel and the threads are way back in there whereas the one with the aluminum wheel is actually able to reach in through the aluminum and still utilize the inside the inside wheel so after all this work I'm realizing that didn't help us at all now another difference I learned I'm getting a bud wheel education all this is there's two styles of these inter cap nuts one like this where the threads go all the way to the end and get you maximum engagement the other one looks more like this where the threads are back a little further I'm pretty sure that this would be stronger if you had a little bit longer inner stud because you actually have that longer stretch length on the bolt much like on a tractor something times you'll see a spacer before you put the nut on on the DU that extra stretch length increases your clamp load that you're able to achieve on that bolt because you got a longer area to pull on it'll hold more consistent tension that's my understanding anyway so after all this I was unable to find studs that fit this truck that are the little bit longer that would be ideal so I believe our best course of action is just to use these full thread length inner cap nuts like this guy obviously not the steel on steel and not the kind that don't have the thread cleared at the end so let's switch those tires back put it back on all aluminums and we'll go with all this style inner cap nut and all I'm going to do is swap out the couple studs that are stripped on the inside and leave the rest alone let's get her put back together I think a hollow Ram cylinder of a porta power will be our best way to do this iner pack I guess I really mean but because the driver's side is leftand thread we're already going to be in the kind of custom tooling it's a fine thread left-and thread but we have our inner wheel cap nuts so this is an easy place to find that what I'm planning on doing is throwing this in the lathe shaving this lip off and cutting it off until we're flush with the threads on one of these caps that doesn't have the threads to the end and then what I'm going to do is weld on a high strength 3/4 in nut to the back I'm thinking we'll probably cut this off machine that with a good chamfer and chamfer the nut as well that way we can get that nice and square put a good strong weld on there then we'll screw the all thread in put the hollow Ram cylinder on this and then we'll have to have a spacer like a piece of pipe or tubing or something on this side so that once we put the stud in through the Hub screw this on put the pipe on put the porta power on and then put a nut on the back side of this that way when we expand that porta power will'll draw the stud into the Hub while it pushes off the Hub with that steel pipe hopefully that's not too confusing let's get to do a little bit of machine work and it'll make more sense here as you see it if you are confused I'm a little confused cuz not that I've done this but we're going to figure out how to make it happen so I've gotten a couple questions on my old Lodge and shiple lathe here I bought this after a summer of working as an intern for case New Holland I came back home and I found this girl on Craigslist puff and I Lauren and I my wife now wasn't at the time we cleaned and painted this thing and it's just been a a good shop machine for us it's an 18x 54 machine 1963 I specifically wanted one of these little bit newer we'll call it than like the 50s monarchs cuz I wanted a little more spindle speed this will go 2,000 RPM with a gear drive spindle but it sounds like it's going to take off in my opinion I still like the monarchs a little bit more just for whatever reason the the feel of them that's what I learned on at Penn State in the a engineering lab we had a 1943 Monarch CK I want to say it was I think it was roughly the same size I think it was 60 in between Center maybe but pretty similar machine loved that lathe pretty much lived in my dorm room my freshman year Watching Mr Pete 22 going to that Shop playing with that lathe my my good friend Seth Bish Maybe watching Bish he taught me a whole lot in my freshman year I owe a lot to him and that sort of got me my start in Machining I'm not a machinist we're enough to be dangerous around here we dabble in it I would say but I don't know how any shop is complete without a lathe they are very useful for a lot of things I don't have a mill here we have a CNC meal at work if I have to have it the lathe in my opinion is much more usable than a Mill a manual Mill not that you you know obviously real machinists use manual Mills all the time but to me a manual lathe is more useful than a manual Mill I would rather be on a CNC mill for that type of work but that's just me so let's throw this inner wheel cap nut in we don't care about these outside threads at this point so I'm just going to just grab them right in the truck turn this down cut the end off so we get out there to where the threads are flip it around cut this off or at least taper that back and see how we can weld the nut to The Backs side of this yeah somewhere in that 500ish RPM range will work for [Music] us it's pretty good I'm going to put the nut in there and cut a chamfer on it as well [Music] [Music] want to try to square this nut up pretty well [Music] pretty good there all right so I faced both the nut and the cap nut and now we can actually put them together and they don't wobble everywhere so if we're off a little bit with our concentricity that's really not the end of the world but I do want them to be flat so that when the stud is in here and it's pulling it's not pulling it crooked basically and trying to rip that weld off or bend the stud coming in the hub anything like that so I do want this to be square I think we're there let's get her welded up so in order to tack this I'm going to put it in the vice and that's just going to help hold everything Square I [Music] think let that cool down a little bit and give her some grinding think it'll work I cleaned up our start and stop boogers in the lathe real fast and that'll thread on there like that and then that will left-handed thread onto the stud like I said the hollow Ram enter pack on there washers and not on this end all right so we got our new 38 in longer stud put our adapter kit tool on there like to be able to get it snugged up on there to keep everything Square all right so we're pulling a little tension against it put our tool in there and then our short spacer and then this hollow Ram cylinder show you real quick what we have going on basically as it expands it's just a regular cylinder except it'll slide over the all thread so it's pulling away from itself as we pump it out this one's a 12 ton and it fits really nice nice I have a 20 ton here if this won't do it I'm going to slip that over the back Seated on that piece of pipe and then I got to spin a nut with a washer here and we'll start pumping it out all right I'm just going to stay out of the the line of fire with it [Music] here something's happening watch out Ys look out you're in the danger zone [Music] watch out watch out it is [Music] going watch out come on look out we're not quite on there yet but let's take a peek sure does beat beaten it to death though doesn't it just have that little bit more to go [Music] she bottom out that worked pretty well my little our little welded up tool for that did the job and we got a nice fresh wheel stud [Music] all righty ahead and adjust our brakes while it doesn't get any easier than this this truck does have manual slack adjusters it's kind of right before the switch to Auto slacks honestly what I found I kind of prefer the manual slacks the auto slacks have their fair share of problems when you're in the habit of always checking your brakes with manual slacks you stay on top of it and I think you in general keep the brakes adjusted better if you're running a truck every day a lot of miles I'd say the auto slacks are probably a better choice so what I'm I'm going to do is actually adjust the brake up tight to Center this drum while we put the wheels on so now it's actually snug I'm going to put this inner wheel on get it held on there because from what I can tell and you can see it here nothing really locates the drums too much on a stud pilot on a hub pilot the drum fits on the Hub real nice but these ones they really don't seem to so I'm going to do that to try to center it more than just hanging here I don't know if it helps or not but we'll put the inner wheel on I did get the new inner cap nuts with the full thread package so we can make sure every inner cap nut we use has the full threads so that's all the way on you can see how those inner studs they don't come out very far and that's the reason that those inner cap nuts reaching in is so important like this guy here that's what we're looking for so this side is the driver's side so it's left-handed threads Lefty tidy on these Bud [Music] Wheels think we may need to Jack the truck up a little bit old 3/4 torque wrench ready to go there was Lube on these threads so we're going to go with the 350 to 400 ftlb and go somewhere in that vector and should put us at 400 I also have no idea how calibrated or accurate this torque wrench [Music] is sure wouldn't you say Odie right on the money too much I hit that one twice with the impact dude act to apparently we went a little too high on them that one's right there we're basically a calibrated torque wrench I bet a lot of damage was done to these inner studs by somebody being on there with a 1in gun just giv her we're somewhere in that 400 450 foot-pound range which I think is right where we want to be on the inner cap nut we'll put the outer wheel on now and then those bigger style lug nuts and they go to 550 to 600 ft-lb now there are combo sockets that are inch and a half and have the square inside them I have that for a 1-in drive but I don't have that for a 3/4 drive and we have a 3/4 drive torque wrench and we have our 3/4 drive trusty impact here so when it's Drive we're using adapter is not as helpful all righty I can start them all now this is our highly highly technical Jack standand 1000 torque support these guys we do want to n up to 600 ftlb which is all this torque wrench has to give yeah [Music] [Music] it's a bunch let's see what our our calibration is my fat 190 lb or whatever I am these days and 36 in is here so yeah 200 lb at 3 ft is what it's going to take so it must be pretty [Music] close might as well go ahead and slap that calibrate sticker right on it we're going to go ahead and change the front tires I bought some new used tires because these trucks really don't get too many miles the these tires are about 10 years old now so that concerns me more than anything these guys that I picked up at our local tire shop they're only a couple years old still have pretty decent tread on them let's get them swapped out helps to close the [Music] valve pull valve of course we can dump the air apparently it's uh not happy cat did a really good job at holding that air [Music] in H with a little Lube package [Music] okay [Music] it's good thing these wheels need polish cuz we're giving them a workout [Music] [Music] [Music] oh my God a thing is stiff and check the King Pins out seems like everything's pretty good there [Music] [Music] oh [Music] [Applause] [Music] you man looks like the first time I've ever touched a tire there it is we get this thing to seat I left the valve core out oh no way kind of stand off to the side my handy dandy Locker watch out watch out boys and boys goofballs we got a show our viewers our cool new wet line setup so one of our next projects here on the LTL in the shop Mission I'm going to put a wet line on it I picked up a new PTO and pump from our local Drive Line Store if you're curious you can get yourself your very own brand new wet line setup for about $2,000 this is separate piece this bolts on the bottom of the transmission this gear is always turning and then when the PTO engages this gear in the back you can see that fork on it it slides over when this goes on the transmission you have to shim the distance that this is to set the backlash on this gear that's done by just putting more gaskets on here all right guys that wraps up this portion of the Ford Mission on the next one we'll get into installing the wet line I thought I could do this all in one video but it's getting so long that I don't think that's going to be possible so I'm going to chop it here stay tuned for the next video on the mighty Ford LTL where we get into installing our brand new wet line PTO the tank All That Jazz plenty of work coming up stay tuned I'm Sam with Scrappy Industries thanks for watching if you haven't done so already please hit the Subscribe button below to support our rescuing of old scrap trucks equipment whatever it may be we appreciate your support thanks again

Channel: Scrappy Industries

Views: 42,274

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Id: OCY_9mjkAGI

Length: 27min 21sec (1641 seconds)

Published: Sat Jun 15 2024