Nemesis Painting Tutorial

[Music] greetings fellow members of the esoteric order of gamers and welcome to this painting tutorial I'm going to show you a fast technique for painting the intruder aliens in a game of nemesis by awakened realms this is a quick technique I came up with so I can get them on the tabletop and looking good as fast as possible I hope you find it useful ok these are all the miniatures you get in the base set now we've got two different types we've got aliens and we've got crew men and women so there's a different approach for both of these now the style I'm going to do the aliens in is very much like the film alien they're going to be black and dark with tinges of silver and glossy carapace and it's going to be very a simple paint job because I want to get through them more quickly so I can play with them and I like that dark mysterious alien movie look so of course I'm going to prime all of these black with a spray black now these ones of course are the cream and I'll be doing those in my usual way which is to prime them with white because I prefer to prime my miniatures with a white undercoat unless of course I want them to be mostly black so about two different types we're going to have a white spray and a coat on those and a black spray undercoat on those now of course most of the time before you prime miniatures you go over them very carefully and you clean off any mould lines and any bits of plastic that are sticking out now these are very nicely done miniatures none of the mold lines are obvious or jump out at you so I'm not going to bother doing that I'm going to prime them first and the reason I do this is because once I primed them those mold lines that are really obvious really jump out and I can remove them then and then just paint over that bit of paint that I've scraped back this saves a lot of time because I don't end up going through and removing a whole lot of mould lines that you don't even see from the distance right here's all the crew on my stick that I use for priming your since before but it's just a piece of wood with a bit of metal glued to the top there's a bit more gluing actually and some blocks of foam to hold it and I'll go outside and give this a good old spray of white primer and of course don't get to wear a gas mask to protect your lungs and there are the crew all primed and ready to paint and you can see once they're primed I can really notice if I can get in there so there's a mold line on that one just going over the shoulder area and it becomes much more obvious with the white Prime so I can cut that away a little bit but apart from that there's really not much in the way of cleanup to do they're ready to paint right here the black figures already to prime of course I've stuck these on my sticks with bits of blue tack yeah so that's pretty solid and I can move it around without them falling off there's quite a lot of figure so I've got two sticks worth and some large ones to do separately here you can see one of the alien figures primed and this is the final result this is what we're going for now as you can see I haven't finely painted this figure by hand I've been using some dry brushing techniques and washing techniques and then a little bit of detailed painting on top of that and using this technique I really got all the aliens painted in the Nemesis Set very very quickly and I think the results are pretty good it looks suitably menacing and horrific and it looks a bit like the aliens from the film alien which is what I'm going for so I'm starting with LED Belcher and I'm just going to do an overall very very light dry brush over the figure just to bring out all the contours of the figure using a citadel shade brush because it's a nice soft brush and I'm getting off almost all of the paint onto a towel and then very lightly dry brushing the figure now I want to avoid brush strokes as much as possible so this is why I'm very carefully doing this and not laying on the paint too thickly and you can see with the light dry brush you start bringing out all the detail in the figure and would get an overall base coat without actually having to do any painting with figured that's as detailed as this one this kind of approach really makes sense is save a lot of time of course the other approach would be to paint the whole thing and then wash it but in this case I wanted a lot of darkness and a lot of black in this figure so this is the best way of getting that effect and there's the final result as you can see you do have some brush texture in there of course using this method that it still looks pretty good and you've got lots of black still in the shadows and this is a good basis to start working from here all the adult alien figures with that dry brush in it as you can see I've built up quite a lot of the gunmetal paint on it that I'm going to be washing this down so it'll get a lot darker with washes and talking about washes here's the first one null oil which is of course a black wash and this is where we'll be really toning down that silver or that gunmetal dry brush and darkening it up and putting back some of the shadow detail that we took out with the dry brush so I just carefully apply the wash all over the figure and as usual what I'm applying a wash I don't want it to pull too much in the recesses so I can dry my brush on a paper towel quickly and dab up any wash that's pulled in the recesses and you can see I'm also putting the wash on the base because I dry brushed that as well you can see that's darkened things down a bit and this is where I check the figure carefully to see that I haven't got the wash pulling too much and here's the result when I've done all the alien figures you can see I'm doing all this batch in one go the gunmetal is now darkened down a bit and we've got a little bit more shadow back on the figure right so the next step is to take a rune fêng steel and this is where I'm going to do a very light highlight dry brush so using my soft brush I wipe most of it off on a paper towel and then just do some very very light and dry brushes on the highlight areas you can see I'm just picking out bits that would catch the light the ends of those sharp sites like appendages and and just adding a little bit of a sharp a silver glint to bits that would catch the light this gives it a more of a sense of volume don't forget the end of the knee there the knuckles of the hands and there you go that makes the figure look a little bit more three-dimensional at this scale here all the adult aliens done up to that stage and you can see it's really starting to come together now next step is to make that gunmetal and silver shade a little bit more interesting buy some dragon half nightshade and this is where we start to go a bit blue we're still getting that lovely metallic alien feel but just adding a bit of tone to it I'm using a layer brush here I think a large layer of brush a medium layer brush actually it is and I'm using a smaller brush so I can control the application of this wash a bit more and I'm just painting this over the metal areas to add a bit of a blue tinge to the metal and to me this makes it look a bit more interesting of course you don't have to use blue here you could use a green wash if you wanted more of a green metallic tinge or any color you want really and of course when I'm applying this wash I want to make sure I don't get it on the base because I don't want a blue tinge to my metal grating as before make sure it doesn't pull too much in the recesses and make sure on areas like the knee there you're just getting a nice tint to the silver and it's not pooling or drawing in blobs and of course I don't have to be too precise with the application of this it's just giving an overall effect don't worry about painting that carapace over the head because we'll be painting that black later and of course when you're using washes this is inevitably probably going to happen it's so common to knock over wash pots of ink and a spill or your very expensive ink so if you do just take a large brush like this one and just roll it in the ink soak it up and then put it back into the pot and you'll find you'll be able to retrieve virtually all the ink unless of course you spill it on some very difficult surface so here all the figures washed with blue and you can see that it's given a nice blue tinge now you can do one or two coats of this depending how heavy you want your blue effect next I'm going to paint that head a carapace and just in black very easy to do at the end I'll be giving this a gloss varnish so it's really glossy and shiny but it really only needs one good coat of black time for some detailing work Buckman's glow is a good dark flesh color and I'm using that for the sort of fleshy bits between the wings and also for the mouth so this bits of tendon or skin that hold the wings or sides of whatever they are together I'm painting Ian's Buckman's glow you may need two applications of this to get a very good coverage but the pigment in this particular paint is pretty good so I think I only used one coat now if you do accidentally put paint on another paint of the figure and we all do this occasionally just douse it in water it's a good way to get rid of mistakes like this douse it in water and then rub it off with the brush and you'll find if you do this quickly you can erase the mistake don't forget to do the edges of those detailed areas be as neat as you can but of course you don't have to be absolutely precise because we'll be putting another wash over this which will blend in the edges a little bit now I'm pretty roughly going to paint inside the mouth of that fleshy color as well and here's the final result so all those little detailed areas have been painted and it started to really come to life now next up I'm going to use Eric's earth shade to do some blotchy washing on the bases and this does muddies and dirties them up a bit makes them look a bit more realistic as you can see I'm doing this very roughly Seraphin sepia is the next wash I'm using and that is to wash the flesh she detailed areas I did before and it'll also help these areas blend into the body of the miniature and bring out the detail in the mouth just a nice heavy application there you don't have to worry about this pulling too much because you actually want it quite dark where it joins the rest of the miniature very easy to do of course don't forget I'm letting everything dry thoroughly between all these steps the last thing you want to do is paint on top of wet areas now that base is dry I'm using a bit of riser rust to add a bit of character to the basis I take a bit of this on my brush and wipe most of it off on a paper towel you might want to use an old brush for this and then just dab bits of it onto the base to give a rust effect you can also wipe a bit off with your finger if it gets too heavy and try not to overdo it you just want to do it in the corners where you think rust would gather and this adds a bit of realism to your metallic bases next some typhus corrosion to add a bit of dirt and corrosion to those bases as well of course you might want to really shiny clean bases but because of some of the rubble on these bases I think it's appropriate to add a bit of this damage and again paint this just in the recesses where it would get all dirty and grubby time to go back in and do a little bit more highlighting back to ruin Fang steel and this time actually painting on a few dabs of highlights little bits where light would catch the edges so I'm just doing this on the sharpest little spots the edge of the knees the ends of little sharp areas tiny little dabs of silver that just gives the whole figure a little bit more volume and really this is the only relatively careful painting step in the whole procedure now you'll note that I'm not going to highlight that black carapace because I'm going to let the glossy varnish catch the light itself so it won't need artificial painted highlights you can see I'm using an edge brushing technique there just to put a very thin line of highlight along the sharp edge just using the edge of the brush don't overdo it and these little subtle highlights will really make the figure pop some kids live flesh is a light of flesh color I can use to highlight the fleshy bits on the miniature and using this color I'm doing a few highlights inside the mouth and highlighting the lines of the tendons of course I'm using a smaller better quality brush for these hand-painted highlights and finally a tiny bit of white scar to pick out the teeth in the mouth and really you can put these tiny little dabs anywhere you like depending how many teeth you want showing well you may prefer your alien to be a bit gummy on this scope the teeth are a little bit more obvious and there we go they're all starting to look pretty good just a final little bit of detail work to really bring them to life and of course that is blood and slime first I use citadel's technical paint blood for the blood god and this is a great blood to use I used to mix up my own recipe of for blood but this stuff really does the trick just use a set of frayed brush and give a little flick over the bits where you want some blood and as with all things like this don't be too heavy-handed keep physics in mind because if you've got blood coming out of the mouth and it's probably going to drip on the chest plate plate or on the base and that's all you need that's actually quite a lot of blood there so really don't overdo it otherwise it'll look a bit silly and try and tell a little story with each location of stuff like this in this case the aliens hands are getting most of the blood and maybe just a little bit on the tail and in the mouth and in fact adding blood to the mouth for these figures is really good because it also makes that sort of fleshy bloody area just a bit more frightening next I go to niggles rot for a bit of slime because in this game you can get slimed by the aliens so I'm adding a bit to the mouth a little bit of a drip down the chest as well and in some cases I'm gonna have it drip down onto the floor plating as well again don't overdo it and it will really add a little bit of extra character to those miniatures yeah that looks horrible I've even in this case had the slime drip off the base a little bit just to make it even a bit more interesting but that really sells the idea that the slime is dripping from his mouth now before this step I actually varnished the figures I use a semi gloss varnish usually and it's particularly appropriate for these miniatures because you want them to be slightly glossy so I've sprague lost the entire miniature with semi-gloss and after that's completely dry I'm going back with a heavy spot application of gloss varnish just to the carapace and a little bit in the mouth as well to get it a little glossy and disgusting and this really makes the head pop and gives the miniature that alien feel and here they are all finished so that's eight miniatures and that really didn't take very long to do as you can see I did them in a batch and just did it stage by stage and I think the end result looks great especially from tabletop distance these aren't painted for display these are painted for use so there are a few tiny little flash lines on there that I didn't bother removing but the idea was to paint these quickly so I hope you enjoyed this look at painting the nemesis aliens it's a fantastic game I highly recommend it make sure you grab yourself a copy if you like the alien theming you'll absolutely love Nemesis so thanks for watching that's the esoteric order of gamers order of gamers calm as well you'll find me and of course on Facebook Twitter Instagram and of course my patreon page as well if you want to support this channel don't forget to subscribe hit all notifications and I'll see you next time good gaming and good painting

Channel: The Esoteric Order of Gamers

Views: 24,097

Rating: 4.9590445 out of 5

Keywords: Esoteric Order of Gamers, tabletop games, boardgames, miniatures, miniature games, wargames, roleplaying games, miniature painting, Nemesis, Awaken Realms

Id: bjkGZkN_aNo

Length: 18min 7sec (1087 seconds)

Published: Sat Nov 16 2019