Our journey begins on the border of western
Montana in the Bitterroot Mountain Range, an instant introduction to the rugged landscape
that lies ahead. We enter the Kootenai National Forest for
our first look at some of the country's most pristine bodies of water as well as the engineering
masterpiece that is the Libby Dam. From the northern most point of our journey
in the Whitefish Mountains we begin tracking the Flathead River as it courses south. Its path takes us to the Gateway of Glacier
National Park in Kalispell, Montana. Our journey concludes with an exploration
of the stunning scenery around Flathead Lake as well as the oldest settlement along its
banks, the town of Polson. The vast Bitterroot Mountain Range, named
after the state flower of Montana, is a sub range of the Rockys, and span nearly 62,000
square kilometres. That's almost the size of the entire state
of Florida. At the Bitteroot's northwest section are the
Coeur d'Alene Mountains and it's here we catch a glimpse of Cherry Peak in the distance. Rugged and glacier-swept, the range has earned
the nickname, The Montana Alps. Coursing through the range, is the Clark Fork
River. Renowned for its natural beauty, it's also
been a major source of electricity for the area since the construction of the Noxon Dam. When the plan was announced in the 1950s the
local Mayor heralded the decision as "the biggest thing that ever happened in the county." Completed in 1959, the hydroelectric plant
has a current operating capacity of 466 megawatts of power. These are the remote peaks of the Cabinet
Mountains. Here, snow falls all year round. This wet climate provides the mountains with
vegetation uncharacteristic of western Montana, many of its plant species are actually natives
of the Pacific Coast. Much of the Cabinet Mountain range is part
of the Kootenai National Forest, with laws that protect its many species - giving the
region a reputation as one of the wildest in the US. Nestled among the high peaks is a true gem
of western Montana - Bull Lake. With its pristine water and breath-taking
scenery, it has become a popular site for summer homes and recreational activity. Most of the land is privately owned, including
Angel Island, but the Kootenai Forest Service has been integral in preserving the lake's
natural beauty. This area offers a variety of landscape from
the high, rocky peaks to the groves of huge cedars and alpine meadows. Hidden within the 38,000 hectares are over
80 small blue lakes that feed streams which tumble into the moose country below. Beyond the eastern slopes of the Cabinet Mountain
range lies the Libby district. The population of the area soared after the
discovery of gold deposits in the 1860s. One of the many mining sites was Big Cherry
Creek, which runs 14 miles to the confluence of the Kootenai River. And as we prepare for a landing at the city's
small airport, we pass Libby Creek, which was once another lucrative source for gold. Flying around this vast landscape, means filling
up with fuel at every opportunity since airfields are more remote. With our tank full, we climb back into the
skies to grab a bird's eye view of Libby, Montana. Lying in the heart of the Kootenai Valley,
the city, which is barely 5 square kilometres, has been supported by the logging and mining
industries, although tourists are increasingly visiting in order to enjoy the mountains and
river. The Kootenai courses through sparsely populated
regions of the Pacific Northwest, with a dramatic two kilometre drop in elevation from its origin
in British Columbia. It's one of few North American rivers that
starts in one country, crosses into another, and returns to the first. The river forms many rapids, and this stretch
is popular for Whitewater rafting. Approaching an area known as The Big Bend
the Kootenai surges around the south base of the Purcell Mountains, just below... The Libby Dam. Spanning almost a kilometre and designed to
withstand an earthquake registering 6.5 on the Richter scale, it's one of the sturdiest
such structures ever built. Completed in 1972, the barrier is made up
of 47 massive sections, designed as independent units. If one collapsed, the other 46 would remain
standing. The dam forms a 140 km long reservoir known
as Lake Koocanusa, which stretches deep into neighbouring Canada. It was a joint project between the two countries,
with the aim of combating the costly flooding that occurred in spring and summer, as well
as providing electricity. At full capacity, the Libby Dam passes 4500
cubic metres of water per second. Its five turbines generate 600 megawatts of
power, allowing it to service eight states. Although the engineering of the lake had a
very practical purpose, the outcome was the creation of this majestic water scene set
against the backdrop of the Kootenai National Forest. It is home to a variety of sporting fish and
offers year-round angling. Outdoor enthusiasts are also able to enjoy
several beaches, hiking trails and camping on the waterfront. One popular site to set up camp is even in
the centre of the lake... Yarnell Island. Although the lake's name, Koocanusa, sounds
very tribal, it was actually the result of a competition during its construction. The winning entry was the combination of Kootenai,
Canada, and USA... Koo-Can-USA! A
lesser known range in northwest Montana, the Salish Mountains, are filled mostly with tree-covered
summits; but we're lucky to find one of its open grassy valleys. The curvy Stillwater River snakes through
Flathead National Forest. The Salish Mountains feature an extensive
network of logging roads to support the timber industry as well as many trails that climb
from the valley floor to the peaks that range from 1000 to 2000 metres high. In the 1960s the rapid pace of industrialisation
across the nation became a major conservation issue. The US government's response was to establish
the National Wilderness Preservation System of 1964 to designate regions as Wildlife Management
Areas. Both the Upper and Lower Stillwater Lakes
fall under this protection, guarding vital habitats for a variety of animals from bald
eagles to mountain lions. The protected area lies within Stillwater
State Forest, Montana's oldest woodland. Covering over 38,000 hectares, it's also the
state's largest. It's a favourite with hikers all year round
who enjoy climbs up to Antice Knob for spectacular views of places such as Swift Creek River. Crossing the valley we come to the northern
most point on our journey at the Whitefish Range. Since the peaks aren't particularly high here,
they provide the right environment for red cedars and Douglas firs to grow in abundance. ...the same can't be said for their neighbours,
the massive, snow-capped mountains of Glacier National Park which we see in the distance. Having reached the midpoint of our journey,
we begin heading south along the Flathead River, which will guide us throughout the
remainder of our expedition. This valley, known as Bad Rock Canyon, acts
as a border between Glacier National Park and the Apgar Mountains. The river is commonly called the North Fork,
which refers to the main stem of the Flathead that is joined two other large tributaries. Deemed the "wildest river in the continental
United States" by the New York times, the Flathead has been designated as a National
Wild and Scenic River. Unlike other major river valleys in Montana,
Flathead has never been dammed for hydroelectric power or mined for natural resources, despite
several recent efforts to drill for coal. Dipping into Glacier National Park we follow
a small tributary of the Flathead River... Camas Creek. Cutting through a series of rolling hills,
it's joined by a road which offers park visitors a rustic and scenic entry point. Surrounded by picturesque meadows of tall
grasses and Douglas firs, Camas Creek is a popular trail for horseback riding. We cross back over the mountain range at its
southern tip and discover the charming lakeside city of Whitefish. A major recreation centre of western Montana,
the city has become both a retirement community and tourist draw to one of the state's most
popular ski resorts with an economy supported by the logging industry as well. Despite a modest population around 6,000,
Whitefish as of 2010 was Montana's 14th biggest city. It first thrived when The Great Northern Railway
laid down tracks through the city in 1904. 20 years later the company built this Tudor
Revival style depot. Thanks to preservation by the Stumptown Historical
Society, the depot is on the National Register of Historic Places. Today the station is the busiest hub for Amtrak's
Empire Builder, a passenger train route from Chicago to the Pacific Northwest. Whether travelling to Whitefish by train,
plane or car, visitors and residents most likely find themselves spending time by the
water. Fed by several tributaries that flow through
the Flathead Watershed, this 11-kilometre long glacial lake is surrounded by mountain
landscape. Dotted around its banks are several state
parks, lakeside resorts, as well as pristine and sandy public beaches. While the city's biggest tourist draw may
be the Big Mountain ski resort, the Lodge here presents a leisurely, graceful stay with
the amenities of a full-service resort. Tucked between Glacier National Park and the
Kootenai National Forest, Whitefish Lake is one of Montana's true gems. We descend for our second landing on this
journey at Glacier Park International Airport in the city of Kalispell. Although it does service commercial airlines,
it's a popular landing spot for private jets and other aircraft due to its proximity to
the park and the nearby resort towns. Back in the air, we return to the Flathead
flood plain, jumping several kilometres downstream from its more turbulent beginnings. Here it spreads out over this flatter, glacially
shaped valley on its way past our next stop... Kalispell. It's the largest city on our journey as well
as the largest city in Northwest Montana. Known as the Gateway to Glacier National Park,
Kalispell is a short distance from several resorts and parks. Its location led to the city's growth as the
commercial, government and medical hub of Flathead Valley, symbolized by this historic
courthouse erected in 1902. At an altitude of 900 m, the city was named
after its high elevation. Kalispell is a Salish Indian word meaning
"flat land above the lake". One of Kalispell's most endearing treasures
is the Victorian home of the city founder, Charles Conrad. Built in 1895, the home's exterior is accented
with arches, long gables, massive stone chimneys and windows made from diamond-paned leaded
glass. Today the home is operated by the city of
Kalispell as a museum and event centre, showcasing almost all of the original family furnishings
throughout its 26 rooms over three floors. Conrad's grand residence rests on three landscaped
acres, representing the vision he had for the entire city of Kalispell when he set foot
here 1891. We join the Flathead River once more, as it
flows past Kalispell. Here, we see a considerable area of low-lying
plains have been flooded. The level of flooding varies annually depending
on the quantity of snow in the winter and the subsequent rainfall in the spring. The river flow is finally slowed as it drains
into Flathead Lake. Several rivers and streams flow into this
body of water, including Swam River in the northeast corner, where we find the quaint
town of Big Fork. No longer a well-kept secret, publications
have deemed this place "one of the 50 great towns of the West" and "one of the 100 best
small art towns." From its early days of a farming and timber
economy, Big Fork now thrives as a community known for art, fine food and theatre as well
as growing its famous Flathead cherries. Both the waterfront of Swan River and the
180 mile shoreline of Flathead Lake became prime real estate for luxury living. Bigfork is just one of several areas lined
with ornate cabins built into the embankment of the largest fresh water lake west of the
Mississippi River. As we head south, we soar close to the lake's
choppy waters en route to the nearby cove of Woods Bay, which is set on the northern
tip of Flathead National Forest. We linger for a while longer, taking in the
beautiful sunset and shimmering reflections. The famous American author John Steinbeck
once stated, "I am in love with Montana. For other states I have admiration, respect,
recognition, even some affection. But with Montana it is love." Steinbeck may well been sailing upon the waters
of Flathead Lake when experienced these heartfelt emotions. We complete our tour here exploring several
of the primitive islands in the southwest corner, known as Big Arm Bay. Our first stop is Wild Horse Island State
Park. Here the Salish Indians would pasture their
steeds to keep warring tribes from stealing them. A handful of wild horses still roam along
the rugged prairie grasslands and gallop into the Old growth Ponderosa pine forest. Despite the name of the island, a hundred
other species of wildlife such as bighorn sheep, mule deer and bald eagles are native
to the park. Rare and endangered plant species have also
been found in the Palouse prairie, the last remnant of Montana's native grassland. Owing to the strong winds here, sailboats
are a very common site. Though the island is clearly a favourite among
hikers, boaters, and swimmers, camping and biking is prohibited. But private homes have been present since
the turn of the 20th century. The 900-hectare island is mostly owned by
the state and has been operated as a park since 1978. About a dozen smaller islands exist on the
lake, most of which are inhabited by wildlife. Some real estate here can be quite expensive
with one home reportedly listing for 78 million American dollars... Admittedly, that's with the entire 8-acre
island thrown into the deal. Located on the lake's southern shore by Flathead
River is Polson. Before roads had been properly established
in the area, the city was a transportation hub for steam and sail boats. Today, Polson is a popular summer resort destination
and is at the heart of some of Montana's most fertile farming areas, famous for their cherry
orchards. Now at the last leg of our journey, the lake
empties into the lower portion of the Flathead River, which continues to drain downstream. It sneaks around the steep hillsides of the
Flathead Indian Reservation for another 116km eventually joining with the Clark Fork River. Whereas the upper section north of the lake
has never been dammed, this lower section had a very different fate. 16 metres taller than Niagara Falls, this
is the Kerr Dam. The concrete gravity-arch structure was completed
in 1938 and adds 3 meters to the depth of Flathead Lake. It's the largest electrical generating power
plant in Montana. A walkway along the rim allows for dizzying
views of the falls as well as the river running into the canyon. Located within reservation boundaries, Kerr
Dam is jointly operated by a private power company and the Flathead tribe. And our last stop is in the company of a few
daring travellers. While Flathead Lake might be an excellent
spot for speed and sail boats, downstream provides excellent white-water rafting adventures. The lower Flathead River is known for having
the biggest, most consistent white-water in the state. Rafters can choose from floating peacefully
in calm waters to navigating the challenging, 16kms of Class IV white-water known as Wild
Buffalo Rapids. As we bid farewell to our friends on the river,
we also end our journey through northwest Montana. Here the state motto is "Oro y plata", Spanish
for "Gold and Silver", a nod to her history of yielding fortunes in precious metals. However, the stunning panoramas, from the
mountains to the valleys to the whitewater rapids, are perhaps even more valuable, and
a perfect place to end our journey.
Really enjoyed watching this and learning some new things about Montana. Just moved here in 2014 and I'm discovering more and more every day. So much to do.