Millyard Kawasaki H2A 1000 four cylinder - Maintanence tips and ride

in this video i'm going to be riding this 1973 h2 1004 it's got 120 horsepower and it absolutely flies but before we go i need to do a little bit of maintenance and give it a bit of a clean this h2004 is owned by my friend neil and it hasn't been used for a year or so so i thought about give it a bit of a check over before we take it out for a ride i converted the three cylinder engine into a four-cylinder engine by adding a cylinder on the left-hand side using my hacksaw i cut the crank cases in half and then joined two sets together to make it into a four cylinder engine once the cutting process is complete i filed all the surfaces flat and true until they're fit together nicely onto a steel mandrel the solid steel mandrel is clamped into the main bearing journals and this ensures it's held in line whilst i weld the crankcases together the crankcases are then vapor blasted to make sure they're really clean for welding nothing is wasted during the conversion all the bits are leftover crankcases i keep to make 500 twins an additional center barrel fits in just perfect and the four cylinder engine fits nicely into the h2 frame and it's no wider than the z thousand the h2 triple crankshaft is pressed up out of many parts and can be stripped down and reassembled with extra bits to make a nice four-cylinder 90-degree crankshaft the four expansion chambers are handmade from stainless steel sheet each section is marked out from a cardboard template and then rolled up into a cone and welded here you can see the pre-cut section of the stainless steel sheet partially roll into cones halfway through the process and here's the welded cone sections waiting to be welded together into expansion chambers finally i polish the exhaust on my vintage buffing machine and they come up with a lovely sheen almost like chrome the four header pipes are standard h2 under the seat i mounted three coils from suzuki gt 750 and the fourth coil is mounted under the tank i turn on the ignition and there's nothing the battery must be completely flat so i'll go to my shed and get my tools and a new battery and let's fit it onto the bike i put down a little mat on the floor to protect my knees because sometimes kneeling on stones isn't ideal the battery is located behind the left-hand side panel these are easy to remove and that's why original metal ones are really rare these days because they used to fall off and you could never find them in the hedge with a battery strap and fuse holder removed you can slide the battery out and disconnect the positive and negative wires the new battery requires a bit of assembly to assemble the brass posts in the correct orientation for your bike and there's even an allen key in the bag so it means you haven't got to go and rummage for one to fit and that looks just perfect so now it's all ready to put on the bike i tighten the battery clamp and replace the fuse into the fuse holder then replace the left hand side cover making sure the thumb screws done up tight i tried the ignition again and the neutral light comes on bright and green next thing i want to do is lubricate the points so i remove the points cover using my jis screwdriver the points only require a drop of oil a little bit on the cam and a little bit on each of the pivots just to make sure and it'll run nicely i noticed that left hand carburetor was leaking at the float chamber joint when the bikes on the side stand so i'm going to remove this carburetor and sort the problem i loosen the four clamps on the one piece air filter manifold and slide it back off the carburetors i then disconnect the fuel pipe and unscrew the throttle slide i then loosen the clamp holding the carburetor to the engine and remove the choke the choke unscrews and just pulls out being careful not to lose the plunger the carburetor body can now be pulled off the engine by gently twisting to the left when i made this engine i fitted teflon coated pistons and a quick look down the inlet port you can see that the teflon coating is still completely intact which is really good with the carburetor removed from the bike you can really see the extent of the leaking it's leaking out quite bad it makes my finger wet i like to remove the bloat chamber with the carburetor in its upright position this way i can see if there's any sediment in the float bowl i look into the float bowl and the petrol looks really clear i'm really pleased with that so i tip that away into a container for now and then i can remove the float followed by the cut-off valve and then the gasket gaskets can sometimes be stuck into the carburetor body this one comes straight out and here it is it doesn't look that bad but i think i'll probably make a new one the float bowls often get distorted from over tightening the four screws and basically it pulls the corners down so the gasket doesn't touch the center part so an easy way to rectify this is to first of all remove the brass overflow pipe using my blow torch i gently warm the aluminium float hole causing it to expand then i can use a pair of pliers and gently twist and pull to remove the brass pipe there we go that's better now i'll give it a quick sprinkle with the garden hose to cool it down and then we can rub it onto some fine wet and dry paper to see where the high spots are i use a bit of half inch thick gauge plate steel which is flat as a base the best grade of wet and dry to use is 320 this is just perfect for the job holding the wet and dry paper i gently rub back and forth with a float bowl to reveal the high spots you can clearly see in each corner bright shiny metal showing where it's touching and everywhere else is dull gray showing that it's not touching this is where the leaks will be so you continue rubbing and rubbing and rubbing it can take five or ten minutes but eventually you'll get down to a completely shiny surface and then you know you're all good to go no that's not quite there a bit more and there we go shiny all the way around just perfect the brass overflow pipe looks quite corroded so i put in my little battery drill and give it a rub with some steel wall this brings it up nice and clean and shiny there we go that's much better so now it's ready to put back into the float bowl and to do this you line up with a hole and give it a gentle attack with a small hammer two or three times and that goes straight back in and sealed perfect i now give the car breath of body a quick clean with the carburetor cleaner and leave that to dry in the sun i look up and the starlings are feeding they can be quite aggressive and they peck each other to make a new float bowl gasket i'm going to use this flexoid gasket paper it's 0.8 of a millimeter thick and just perfect for the job i've made quite a lot of gas kits for h2s and h1s over the years and i made this template from an old float bowl that was corroded through i cut off the bottom part and then i could just draw around it it makes it so much easier and this pitch just fits all kawasaki h1s and kawasaki h2s so it has quite a lot of use i use these punches for punching out the holes they come in various sizes and are really easy to use just one gentle tap and the hole is produced perfectly oh okay maybe two taps but the gasket marked out and the hole's punched i use my pocket knife scissors to cut it out and there we go it's all ready to fit and the robin has just landed right next to me to watch he's very tame i'll give the floats a quick shake just to make sure there's no petrol in them and they're not they're totally dry so that's really good because sometimes they get little cracks and soak up fuel then they sink with the floats reinstalled i check the height the float height should be 24 millimeters to the gasket surface of the carburetor body so i check these in my vernier caliper like this it's quite easy to do and these are just perfect with the float heights checked the carburetor can now be reassembled so first of all i place on the new gasket followed by the float bowl and the four screws tightening them evenly with my jis screwdriver the smell of carburetor cleaner is briefly interrupted by a nice smell that's coming from the kitchen so go and have a look and trace is in there cooking so i go in to see what it is our mum's favorite boiled fruit cake mix going in she puts butter and sugar in the pan warms it up with glacier cherries and a few nuts gives it a good stir until it's nice and gloopy then she has a bit of spice and some water and continues to stir even further heating it gently as we go until it boils nicely then she adds some flour and some baking powder a bit of salt gives it more of a stir through the sieve to make sure there's no lumps we don't want lumps in the cakes and even charlie weaver's really happy he had to have more whiskey and then the whole lot's put into a big baking tray and put in the oven to cook and hopefully half an hour later we'll get some nice fruit cake with the cake cooling down nicely i go back out into the garden to refit the carburetor i find it easier to connect the choke cable first before i actually fit the carb onto the bike with the carburetor refitted and the screws tightened i checked the chain with my screwdriver and that seems okay so then i checked the air pressures and the front one's reading 26 psi which is a little bit low i'd rather have 30 so i'll go back and get my old vintage foot pump and pump it up that's better so now i check the rear 31 psi has only dropped one psi so i soon put that back in replace the valve cap and now we can do some polishing there's something quite therapeutic about polishing old bikes it's something we don't do these days because most modern bikes are plastic and anodised aluminium i look across and the robin has landed in the bird bath he's having a good old bath he likes to keep himself clean as well with the engine polish i look at the wheels they look a little bit dull in places so i brighten them up with the metal polish and then go to the headers as well to get all those bits of dead flies off and tar allen it's time for afternoon tea and cake and tracey's just brought out the freshly baked fruitcake that she made this morning it's all cooled down now so we're gonna sit and have this and then we're gonna go out for a ride on the h2004 and that was so nice i think the black birds have landed for some crumbs one of them's looking really scruffy if i look up the sky is really blue so i'm gonna go get my jacket and get ready to go for a ride foreign so so so so so [Music] well i'm just back from my ride on the h2004 it is so fast but i had great fun anyway i hope you enjoyed the video and don't forget to subscribe well it's getting late now tracy's just come out to feed the hedgehogs it's about half past nine and the first one's about to appear we look across the fence and there he is like clockwork coming down to get his food he has a good old nosh and goes back to his bed very strange

Channel: Allen Millyard

Views: 271,709

Rating: 4.9467063 out of 5

Keywords: kawasaki, millyard, Super Six, six cylinder, home made, shed, shed made, old school engineering, engine repair, Z1, Kawasaki Z900, Kawasaki Z1, Hacksaw, hand cutting, MCN, Classic motorcycle Mechanics, The motorbike Show, HCA, Filing, Files, Colchester Lathe, 1970's, Kawasaki, Camshaft, Haveago, millyardracing, hyperride2, Mikuni, Its fast, 500LC, RD250LC, Four cylinder, hca, henrycoletv, allen millyard, Yamaha, YL1, 100cc, Exhaust, 6 into 4, and it fits perfect, just by eye, four cylinder

Id: IdfLUIc1E6A

Length: 19min 10sec (1150 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 04 2021