Matching Dovetails Used To Create a Lathe Tailstock Offset

[Music] hello and welcome back to the ten born I'm pragmatically and today we've got another little project I hope you find interesting this is a project like so many of the things that I do is not original to me I got the idea from this from Matthew look look creations his channel up here according to his channel but he did a video a while back on our cutting tapers and in that video he hit the highlights of making an attachment to go in the tail stock of his lathe and it I really like that let me turn the camera around and I'm gonna show you what we're gonna work on today of course you know cutting tapers on the lathe is not really an issue as long as you've got enough travel on your compound my compound has a little less than three inches of travel which is not enough to make an mp3 no this the length of this taper is greater than the the travel of my compound and I realize you can move the cross slide a little bit and and finish it out but it's kind of difficult to match that up so what we're going to look at today is a means of offsetting the tail stock the tail stock on my lathe can be offset it's got the adjustments on it even got a UH index on the on the back of the tail stock but frankly it's a it's good right now it actually came from the factory good I didn't have to adjust it all in about eighteen inches it's a less than a thousand taper and I honestly just don't want to adjust that change that unless I absolutely have to so we're going to use for this project we're going to use this dovetail block that I made in the previous video probably the the video prior to this one but as you recall this can slide in and out as such and got lock downs what we're going to do is come back here on the on the female side of it I'm going to take an existing mt3 that I've got I've got several of these and only got two places and all my equipment that I could put them and I've got three of them so I'm gonna sacrifice one to make a tool to make these but I won't grind the point off here and then turn this down to about a half inch oh just court now hard this stuff is we'll see what kind of look I have with the lathe but on the back of this I'm gonna drill and ring a matching hole this will not be a press fit it needs to be a fit that can be adjusted there'll be one more hole drilled in the bottom of this and the thumb screw put in there as a lock down screw that will go in there and then have that to be able to level it to get it level so that your travel is on the same plane as your lathe ways then on this side I want to take this piece of 4140 make a pointer heat treat it and it will be mounted in the front right dead in the center oh this is just piece I use them on the meal to line up stuff but to give you the idea it is set down in layer then this will be rigid in the tailstock and that will be able to slide to offset or to create an offset allow us to turn a taper for whatever length we need because it will not be using the compound to be using the cross slide so I'm gonna get this set up on the mill over there to drill this hole out in the back all right I've got the large part of our dovetail block the female side got it mounted in the mill vise now now I've located the center on it so we're gonna we're gonna drill a through hole half-inch we're gonna drill it with a 3160 force to begin with and then reaming out to a half-inch reason I'm drilling all the way through there's absolutely nothing to be gained by dealing with a blind hole here so we're gonna go all the way through then we'll just Homan out let the inside in there if it creates any kind of bird which I'm sure it will [Applause] alright so there we got a nice half-inch hole drilled and reamed I think probably what I do before I move on to the empty three that we're going to cut down to defeating this well one other thing I need to turn this up on the side too to drill for the thumb screws that'll be the locking thumb screw on the bottom but I'm probably also going to flip this over and just run a meal across this just a little bit remember on the dovetail we're interested in riding on these surfaces not the center surface so I'll just run a mill across there to remove that all that bird that's sitting there so I'm gonna get set up now to drill and tap for the set screw on the backside full of locking thumb screw I'm going to use a quarter quarter twenty eighth unscrew I've got it set up mindful that I'm drilling into what's going to be the bottom side of it yes that would be a little harder to get to but I think you'll see later of why this thumb screw needs to be lock screw needs to be under the bottom and not the top I've located the center on the x-axis and for the wax is we're gonna Center on the short part of the female dovetail which in my case happened to be point four four five from the edge I may need to run the bottom tap in that as deep as I had to go just to be sure I got threads all the way all right I'm gonna do a little deeper in on this piece then we'll be able to go over to the lathe and start working on the MT three that we're gonna cut down to go in this piece all right we're getting ready to try turning this mt3 down turn this in down here to a half and of course just face off this point here so how do you hold an MT three to mil off or to face off turn off the only flat surface that's on it my lathe has got a mt5 in the spindle into the MT five bore in the spindle and it goes this adapter goes from a 5 down to a 3 and now with my see if I can back this out just a little bit with my compound turned it in line with the z-axis on here to get the most reach and it pulled out as far as it ago or or screwed in as far as if ago I can just reach where I need to be there so I'm gonna see how this turns I want to start to begin with just working this point off down here and let's say I don't know how this will turn how hard this is may have to do something different let's see my locking ring there wants to rattle let me find me a little clamp bolt just to put it in there all right that's a little butter now doesn't doesn't rattle maybe it won't throw it off balance too much I don't think it will let's pull this in a little bit now so we go ahead and lock our carriage down all right that's some pretty hard stuff right there I think what I want to do is carry this over to the grinder and knock this porn off I believe I can face it okay I'm sorry I believe I can turn it all right but trying to knock that point off right there I'm gonna take it down on the grinder a little bit and then we'll come back and see well see how the turning tool does okay I've got the point knocked off now got about a 3/8 flat on there so I'm gonna just use the turning tool facing tool and keep working this down a little bit at the time alright I'll bring you back when I'm ready to start turning this down to the mission all right I've got it face down to length now and it's a very hard material so what I've done is put me a fresh point out here on my insert and I'm gonna start turning this down to the dimension I've got my stop set down here for the depth for a length and I think I'm just going to cut about 20,000 set the time alright I'll bring you back one and get a whole lot closer I'm gonna set a dimension on here now what we want to do is bring that down to match this hole that we just bored and reamed over layer as I say I want this to be a a good fit it's not a press fit I want it so I can twist it just a little to adjust the level on it but I want it want it to be a good nice snug fit so I'll bring it back when get a little closer all right I've got it down now that's micrometer says we got three more thousands to go so I'm just gonna that is ever so close right there so I'm just gonna try to move just a smidgen there all right I won't try some Emery cloth on that now not quite there yet I'm gonna keep working on this a little bit and I'll bring you back when I've got a good fit on there all right it's almost going on now as a matter of fact that's going on to within about 200,000 sup here at the end if you hear big noise in the background my man's out there cutting my grass right now and he's coming right up next to the ten born but I've torn my piece of Emery cloth down to about a quarter inch wide just so that I can get up here without affecting the end that that seems to be fine just cleaning that up right here it's not quite there yet all right that's up very good now so what this will get is a little stainless steel ball dropped in there and the thumb screw on that side so now we're gonna get set up to distort our corner that will go in the in the mail piece of our dovetail okay I've got the camera turned around now to the tailstock I've got our dovetail block mounted only off mt3 that we just turned down got the locking thumb screw under the bottom and what I've done you probably won't be able to see it but I've put a tiny little not using my dremel tool and put a tiny little notch in the top of that as an index mark and also did the same thing on this mp3 that way every time I get ready to put this in I've got something to index it with I'll show you with that picture of what I've got there now hopefully you've got an idea of what's happening now once this is leveled and we'll get to that in just a moment remember that it's gonna be a pointer out here on this side will be turning between centers if I want a taper all I need to do is of course with the proper adjustments [Music] move that out to offset this pointer down here so let me get set up on showing you how we're gonna level this because we we want this absolutely parallel with the ways on the lathe if not when we slide this out we'll be coming down at an angle we want it level there now we're ready to look at a method of leveling this took the quick change tool post off just so you can see what I'm doing over here it's it would not be in the way of anything other than the camera but I've got it sitting in here now and in my tailstock quiver I've got just a little bit a backlash in there so I'm gonna pull it to this side of the backlash and lock it down now I want to take a bunch of cord a little short bunch of cords you can use a clamp rubberband whatever you've got and I think I'm gonna snap it on there there we go now this is something I dreamed up laying in bed at night so with we're gonna see if it works but take this parallel and sent it the bunch of cord is just a third heading there we're gonna set a 1 to 3 block on here and that's your if your lathe happens to have one of those cross slides that's art-deco whatever you want to call it you'll have to come up with some other method to 2-level but I thought this will probably work in this situation now that flat on there using an adjustable parallel and again if you don't have a set of these they're very inexpensive and they're extremely versatile tool I'm gonna set that under there now and simply keep working the two of them together until I'm completely flat on here flat on the one-two-three block and the and the adjustable parallel once I'm satisfied with that and we'll reach under here to my thumb screw that's the reason I didn't put it on the top side up here with everything held in place I'll just reach under here and tighten just a little more now this should be completely level with the with the ways on the lathe or or in parallel with them alright the next thing we need to do is put the hole in the mill piece of the dovetail block to hold the point that's going to be on here and to do that to be it to make absolutely certain that it's in line with the center of the spindle I'm gonna put the collet Chuck back in back on the lathe and put the center drill put the center drill in a collet run the tailstock up to it and set that mark then I'll of course carry this over to the lathe or to the meal and put a and indicate on that mark that we made and drill it but before I do that I've got everything pretty much lined up right here in line I'm gonna put an index mark across the two pieces I'm put a pretty deep index mark on there now what that is for is after I loosen this and move back and forth I know that will be the zero that is in line that will put this in line with the spindle so I'll get the Chuck back on and then we'll I'll get set up where you can see that alright so I've got the collet Chuck back on the lathe now got the center drill the quarter inch one in the collet and in there now what I'm going to do is slide the tailstock remember I've got the quill lock down so I'm just gonna push it just enough to give me an indication mark over here and then we'll go over to the to the meal and indicate on that mark and drill drill it that has given me good enough mark that I can go over to the meal now and indicate on that okay over here at the meal I've used a wiggler and located that mark we put on around the lathe so now we're gonna do just like we did the female piece we're gonna bore a hole all to it or drill a hole all the way through in this case again a half-inch close your eyes if you don't want to see me put an end mill in a drill Chuck but this is just one a quick pass just to clean up some some burrs right there all right now we're ready to go back over to the lathe and start on that piece of 4140 to make the pointer for this alright I've got this piece of 4140 in the collet now it's inch 1/8 we want to take it down to approximately this size right here what this was originally which is a ninety thousand I'm sorry nine hundred thousand 0.9 and we're going to come back inch and 3/4 turning down the full dimension and then we're going to take about point seven inches down to our hole size to fit in the dovetail block it's got some tape on it now so I'm just going to see if I can peel some of that tape off [Applause] we'll get a zero there [Applause] all right I'll walk to your carry stop in place now all right so let's get about 40,000 snail do don't want to break that chill all right I'm gonna get a measurement on that instead of dimension on the Dro and to bring it down to 0.9 I'll bring it back or get close to the final cut all right this should be the final cut to bring that down to the major diameter if you will all right now let's come up the mail piece is 0.75 so will will make this point seven will be plenty long enough zero out the Dro right there and this will want to take down to our point fives and make it fit well actually on this mail piece we're gonna want this to be a press fit if at all possible so we won't it just a little bit oversized I've checked this with my gauge pins and it did ream out to five hundred thousands so we want to make this maybe 5/10 over a thousand so ver just so we're to press in to this now as always I'll check this set a dimension on the Dro to get us close I'll bring you back when we start actually test-fitting all right we should be getting close now that reads 511 thousandths and we want 501 so we're gonna try and take in 10 off all right that should be close enough that we can massage it a little bit with the sandpaper all right let's see where we are all right that says we're pretty much on the money and actually showing a little bit small yeah I wanted that to be a press fit it's a lot tight fit all right I'm not sure what a what if anything I read wrong on that but that took a little bit more than I wanted but it's still usable we have about four hundred ninety eight thousand so we've got about three thousand to much off but again I can lock type that in and might even consider putting a pin in there all right we're gonna turn this around now and put our point on before I turn it around to put the point on I think I'll go ahead and keep it held with the with the large diameter here to part it off all right that's gonna let port it off I'll get it turning around and get set up to cut the point all right I think one more pass on there I'll bring it to a good point just take it nice and slow and steady yeah we'll take the file and just clean up any little spots on there yeah well and I think I'm gonna leave them there one more time and see if I can't get just a little more point [Applause] all right I believe this the sharper point is I'm going to be able to get oh yes all right I'm gonna take this piece out now I'm gonna preheat the oven get it going pretty good and drop this piece in there a sign instead of heating up the entire oven here which probably to get it up to temperature will take a good hour so I'm just gonna use the map gas and see if I can't get this tip up here hot enough red enough to harden it because if I do have to drill a pin in there I really don't care about that part being hard as well so let's see what we can do here [Applause] [Applause] all right it's starting to get a good read now [Applause] all right I think we got a good hard tip now maybe I'm gonna let that settle for a while then we'll start putting the pieces together okay even though I got this boss on the point here just a couple thousand Sundra I'm gonna go ahead and try using it for now that's all 4140 I've got here that I can that I'm confident that I can heat treat but as you recall I was only just a couple thousands light so what I did was go take my center punch and just barely disturbed it in four places of each the quadrants and that's going to require press now so what I'm going to do is use a little acetone here clear clean out the pieces good clear clean them up and we're going to go over to the press and I want to use some Permatex threadlock as well in there and we're gonna press that in and I won't let that set Oh then we'll come then we'll be ready for the final piece that needs to be done on this before we can actually use it all right I'm over here at the press now and I've got one of my one of my drills on the press pin and instead of pressing on this point that we've got right here I just went over to the scrap man found a piece of stock over there this happens to be a lung them that has a 60-degree Center already drilled in it and we'll use that to press over that but first thing I want to do is put some thread lock on there it's just what I like about these drifts that I made right here you don't have to have a third hand holding them the magnet holds it in place and there we have it pressed in of course it was short enough so it doesn't interfere with the inside of our dovetail so we'll go back over to the workbench and look at the last piece that we need to fabricate and mount on this to have a completed tool all right I believe the last piece we're gonna need for this we've got everything set up here we've got a means of locking it in place we've got our empty three on the back and way to lock it when we get it level with leveled and I don't think I mentioned that when I was talking about leveling but that's something that'll need to be done every time this tool is inserted I put the wetness marks the two index marks one on here and one on the tailstock wheel to get it close but to get this needs to be absolutely parallel with the ways on the lathe as feasibly possible so it needs to be leveled each time it's installed the one piece we got left to do is some means of micro adjusting this will be dealing in thousands here so when we loosen this to adjust it out just a little bit we want to be do it be able to do it again in very small increments I've got two old micro meters here this is a an old Chinese one that I've had for number of years and this is a craftsman old craftsman that came in a box of stuff that a bulk I almost believe that this is a stearic one it looks styled very much like starett I realized craftsman didn't build her own but uh and I was willing to sacrifice excuse me sacrificed one of these to mount on the side of this to push to push this in of course the retract them would have to be manually but folks I'm stumped if you know how to do it I would greatly appreciate dropping me an email or posting in the comments but I can get the thimble off keep running that and unscrew out pull the pin out but I have yet to figure out how to get the sleeve out of the frame on this one if it is a starett and I've done as much research as I thought was feasible on the Internet and the only thing I found about dismantling or disassembling a micrometer I did find one article by starett that said the sleeve and the frame were made as one piece and looking at that I don't think it's one piece because I think this is cast the frame is cast but I just don't see how to get that out of there Oh same thing over here no well it's pressed in or what I know you can probably buy this this part without the frame but I've not had much success finding that either if you know how to get the sleeve the thimble the anvil or this part totally separate of a frame I'd appreciate that information as well but in the meantime instead of totally destroying one of these I even talked about taking the dremel tool and cutting that but if it was something in there I couldn't use then I've wasted a reasonably good in micrometer and this one does measure intense so I decided for the time being what I'm going to do I just made a simple fine thread this is a 3/8 24 thread just took a piece of threaded rod we give this out rounded the ends and also just simply a piece of half inch by half inch stock just carry this over to the belt belt grinder and rounded up rounded to the ends but what I did on the housing the dovetail block was come over here and drill a quarter 20 hole now I will I will likely use some Loctite on this if it looks like something that's going to stay on here for a while if I don't get some good responses on how to get the sleeve out of these micrometers or or get to find just a sleeve and thimble what that will allow us to do now is with it still just a little bit snug I can make some very fine adjustments on that so that is the plan I'm going to go with four now and I'm going to end this video at this point don't get upset at me for not showing you this in use but I have never seen one of these before I saw Matthews or video I don't know whether that made commercially or not but I'm gonna spend a little bit of time to experiment with this myself and then once I feel comfortable with it I'll come back in my next video probably next week but in the meantime like I say I'm going to end this video here and make another video where we're gonna take this piece of stock right here and turn a mt3 from it and I've got to use for this extra mount out here we're going to actually thread that for Chuck the goal so take care I hope you got something out of this video and we'll see on the next one [Music]

Channel: MrPragmaticLee

Views: 36,567

Rating: 4.8762889 out of 5

Keywords: tailstock offset, PM 1127 lathe, PM 727 Mill, turning tapers

Id: JKEnEXuSa04

Length: 40min 31sec (2431 seconds)

Published: Thu May 03 2018