Making my Dream Gaming Mouse

all right so this is the mouse I've been using for almost a year now it's the zonconic m2k it's 23 grams 8 000 Hertz carbon fiber I mean it's an absolute weapon if you want the lightest Mouse possible that's optimized for fingertip grip there really is no better option and that's a problem and that's because it still has a cable it's still using a 3360 sensor and the shape is extremely basic at the same time no one is making mice like this you know super small super lightweight mice optimized for kind of aiming performance and fingertip grip and so it got me thinking you know if I ever want an upgrade from this I'm gonna have to make it myself [Music] oh [Music] all right so to make this project a little easier on myself and because I have no idea how to write the firmware for a mouse we're going to start with an existing base and PCB and I can think of nothing better than the Viper V2 Pro razer's Wireless tech is currently the best in the market you've got features like motion sync an up-to-date sensor Optical switches and a stable 4000 Hertz polling rate apart from that though I've never been a huge fan of the Viper ultimate or V2 Pro the shape feels too big for fingertip grip and also too flat for something like claw grip or Palm grip the button feel is also not the best and the coding to me has always felt a little bit slippery but let's start tearing this thing down so we can get to the good stuff peeling off the three pads at the bottom we can see the four screws that hold the bottom shell to the top shell and reasons have tried to be a little bit fancy here using Torx T6 screws probably to discourage people from doing exactly this the top shell comes off easily enough though and that reveals all of the internals luckily we can see the PCB is relatively small and they're taking up about half of the mouse and also here that we can see everything is on on a single board not like Logitech Superlight for example which has the main switches on a separate PCB but yeah the board is held in by only two screws and I mean again just take a look at how small this PCB is relative to the size of the mouse shell it's very surprising to see and it's actually perfect for what we want to build now the side buttons do of course have their own piece but that's okay we won't be using them and the battery that Razer have used here is absolutely enormous it weighs about 7 grams on its own kind of makes sense though if you're building a 4000 Hertz capable wireless mouse the battery drain there would be pretty crazy but I'm planning on swapping this out for something much much smaller so the PCB on its own weighs about 11 grams add a small battery that brings you just under 15 and that leaves about an extra 10 to 15 grams ideally for the shell to create a 25 to 30 gram Mouse and that is going to be the hardest part and that's because I have zero experience designing a mouse I mean you guys have probably seen me design water cooling brackets and stuff like that but that's just really really basic that that's just cubes with holes in them this is very very different this is like curves and Symmetry and it's something that you actually interact with so the proportions in that regard have to be good as well so I don't even really know where to begin but I guess step one we can take the PCB and sketch this out 3D model this and at least then we'll know what dimensions we're working with and we can start to build a shell around this so building up Fusion 360 and measuring every tiny part of the fibers PCB we end up with something that looks like this I also modeled out the switches where the holes were for the screws and finally the position of the sensor then just a few more details like where the USB port is and where the battery connector sits we have a pretty good looking model to start with I almost just wanted to continue sitting here modeling it out because it was honestly pretty fun also partly due to procrastination I knew the next part would be really hard modeling something that's sitting right in front of you is not that difficult but creating a model from just a barrier idea in your head is so much harder so I started with the main triggers pretty basic shapes here but one thing I knew I wanted for these was a really low height I've tested a bunch of mice and by far the ones with the best feeling triggers always had nice low buttons think mz1 or xm1 for example then I made the standoffs for the screws the brace for the sensor and then finally the contact points for the thumb ring finger and Pinky and you are one of the contact points to be really no bigger than they needed to be I knew what grip I'd be using for this mouse so there's no point just adding unnecessary plastic I also wanted a slight flare at the rear for the thumb and Pinky for a little bit of extra support but yeah this is basically the first draft I've actually left the main triggers off for this first model because I hadn't worked out how I was going to attach them yet and for the first draft I just wanted to check that all of the measurements were correct but to bring this model to Life we'll need 3D printing specifically for this project printing with resin and this will actually be my first time using a resin 3D printer where the main benefit over your common fdm or film printer is in much higher detail and higher quality model I've had a filament printer for about 80 years now and it probably could get the job done but not with the Precision and finish that I was after so printing with resin then is actually pretty cool you pour a bunch of liquid resin into the vat there's then a UV light display underneath which shines the light onto the print bed and the UV then cures and hardens the liquid this is opposed to your standard 3D printer which melts plastic layer by layer and that does look pretty cool but this is kind of Next Level I almost just wanted to sit here and watch it do its thing but since the liquid resin is toxic that's not really a good idea if you're also considering printing with resin just keep in mind the extra safety precautions that you'll need to take like wearing gloves if you're touching the resin wearing a mask and printing in a well ventilated room after the print is done though it's then washed and then queued further with UV light and then we have our finished print and I've got to say the level of quality is exactly what I was hoping for I mean looking at parts of this model you'd almost think it came out of a mold so pretty happy with the quality here but as I expected some of my initial measurements were a little bit off enough to make the PCB not really fit properly and I still had to work out what to do with those main triggers I came up with this design which looked okay but the triggers realistically are just too narrow and the reason for that is to avoid hitting the massive rotary encoder for the scroll wheel which just plainly gets in the way so to move forward let's remove it I'm mainly playing OverWatch 2 at the moment which doesn't really have a use for a scroll wheel and I hadn't actually planned on having one in the final design anyway also check this out the optical switches aren't actually soldered in they're just clipped in with plastic the only Electronics or Optical portion is on the PCV but as for the switch itself it only has this plastic part here which closes and cuts the light so yeah pretty interesting to see you can literally just pull them out super easily with your hands from there it's your usual desoldering method heating up the joints with a soldering iron then vacuuming off the metal with a hand pump the button comes off pretty easily but some of the solder from the encoder just could not be removed I didn't want to wrestle with it or risk heat damaging the PCB so I just decided to clip it off but there we go entire scroll wheel portion removed pretty bare Burns PCB now it was time to really dial in that 3D model I played around with lots of different styles and Concepts and with each one I could feel the final design getting closer and closer I knew I wanted to print the model in a single piece to avoid complicating the construction and I wanted to make the shell both as minimal and as ergonomic as possible for fingertip grip the biggest challenge by far that I faced were the main triggers I honestly just could not work out what to do with them you know do I have them coming from the rear do I model a full shell I had no idea what I was doing and then I thought you know what if I modeled them in Reverse this would hugely cut down the amount of plastic and support needed and would simplify the design even further at the same time no mouse in the world has main buttons like this so I didn't really even know if it would work but from there the design started to evolve into something that looked pretty neat an extremely minimal frame built around the best Mouse technology on the market and the only thing left to do at that point was to print it and see if it works [Music] and finally we have a usable 3D model the PCB fits almost perfectly the main triggers actually worked like way better than you'd expect and the sensor slots in just as I had planned then I just added some tiger Arc Skates on the bottom and we have a mouse now as for the final weigh-in this thing ended up way way lighter than I had expected because I didn't use any lightweight Plastics or anything like that sure we have a lot of cutouts and we don't have much plastic to deal with in the first place but take a look at this the Shell with the PCB weighs just 22 grams that means that with the huge default battery it's still under 30 grams and with a small battery it comes in at just 25. in other words it's the lightest wireless mouse in the world now long story short I did try that smaller battery but since it doesn't have the yellow sense wire like the original razer's PCB just wants nothing to do with it it would turn on for a second and then shut off immediately and it wouldn't charge at all so for the meantime I'll be using the battery from the Viper ultimate which lands us at around 30 grams I do have some of the smaller 3-pin batteries on the way though so the only thing left to do now is to see what it's like to actually play with and I mean I had my doubts there's no shell at all here to support your hands and we modeled and 3D printed this thing in about a week in other words it's not even close to what I would consider a final design there's a lot more fine tuning here to do for sure but I've got to say it's just as insane as I had hoped the design goal here was to make an upgrade from the m2k something with the freedom of wireless and with a better shape and it's exactly that the feeling that I always loved about the m2k was that it didn't feel like you were gripping onto anything since it's so light and small it kind of just sits between your fingertips this is like that but crank to 11. the amount of Mobility that you have with a wireless mouse this light is just insane and you know I found myself surprisingly playing pretty confidently and you know aiming a bit more automatically than I usually do the backwards trigger design somehow ended up working really well and the clicks felt relatively dialed in I actually ended up hitting some pretty sus shots on this guy here and he was convinced that I was hacking so the mouse seems to be working pretty well and also remember you know we've got the 4000 Hertz internals of the Viper V2 Pro in there and booting up razor software that's exactly what it thinks we're using which is you know pretty amusing to see to be honest I just wanted to keep playing with this thing it's like when you get a new piece of gear that gives you a fresh experience as janky as this 3D printed Mouse looks I was having an absolute blast playing with it at the same time I am kind of dumbfounded that it had all worked out I plunged into this you know not knowing anything about resin 3D printing or how to design a mouse shell if it would even work in the first place but the result is most likely what I'm going to be using moving forward what's crazy is this isn't even the final 3D model these renders here have even more improvements than the mouse that I was just using tied to click tolerance longer more comfortable triggers a proper cutout for the USBC charging and the smaller battery which will make it about 5 grams lighter but again even for this like super prototyping model the feeling that you get is just phenomenal the closest thing that I've used to aiming with an empty hand and you know some people might think you know do you even want that maybe you do want a little bit of weight maybe 70 80 grams to kind of smooth things out but I actually think no I think the closer that you can get to the pure input of your hand and your fingertips and having that translated to cursor movement on screen I think that is you know probably the closest that you can get to just pure and highest aim potential but yeah pretty happy with how this one turned out lots of refinement to do of course but I'll be sure to update you guys in a future video otherwise hopefully you all enjoyed this one and I'll see you all in the next one

Channel: optimum

Views: 1,425,425

Keywords: optimum tech, lightest gaming mouse, lightest wireless gaming mouse, 3d-printed gaming mouse, 3d printed mouse, razer viper v2 pro

Id: xvz8KjCpdLE

Length: 11min 44sec (704 seconds)

Published: Fri Mar 17 2023