Making a Tall Storage Cabinet

hey guys welcome back in this video i'm going to be showing you how i added some storage to my new shop by building this tall shop cabinet which i'm going to use to store all of my safety gear in stay tuned and i'll show you how i did it to begin i need to break down all of my cabinet parts from this pre-finished three-quarter inch maple ply this stuff is fantastic for cabinets because well no sanding and finishing needed my favorite way to break down plywood is to put it on this expandable work support with a piece of foam insulation providing a nice cutting surface it allows me to cut with my track saw at a very comfortable height so the first thing i did was cut a section off the end of the plywood panel that i don't need for this project so i'm just going to save that for later i marked out and cut a strip for each side of the cabinet as well as a third strip that i'm going to use for the top bottom and the shelf i then took my strips to the table saw and cut them to final width while at the same time removing the factory edge off of the plywood i then used my new cross cut sled to cut the top and bottom of the cabinet as well as the shelf so if you'd like to see how i made this crosscut sled i'll go ahead and leave a link in the description below to the video and the link to the step-by-step instructions as well as downloadable plans also i need to make one final cut on the shelf piece which needs to be a half an inch less deep to account for the back panel of the cabinet so next i need to make the rabbets and dados in the cabinet sides and to do that i use these undersized plywood bits which are meant to make perfect fitting dados for plywood which is always slightly less than a nominal thickness i went ahead and ran a test cut and a small piece of the scrap for my plywood and as you can see it fits nice and snug now that i've verified the fit i begin by cutting my rabbets in the top of each of my cabinet sides these will hold the top of the cabinet i then moved my fence back and made dado cuts in each side and that's going to house the shelf and i repeated that again to make the dados for the bottom of the cabinet i then swapped out bits from the undersized three quarter inch bit to the undersized half inch bit in order to cut a rabbet down the back of each cabinet side which is going to hold the back panel in place there's something so nice about running your work piece across a router bit one time and getting the right size cut without having to make a second pass for adjustments and if you guys are interested in picking up this router bit set i'll go ahead and leave a link in the description below now that i had all my parts cut and my joinery cut i threw everything up on the bench and fit it all together and since some of my joints were pretty snug i went ahead and used a clamp to make sure everything went together nice and tight i decided not to hassle with glue but just screw everything together since this was a shop cabinet it just saves me some time waiting for glue to dry now if this cabinet was going inside my home i would have sanded the ends of the top bottom and shelf so that they could be glued into the dadoes rather than screwed i then began checking for square to make sure everything was well square i then pre-drilled and countersunk holes in the sides of the cabinet and use black drywall screws to fasten the cabinet together i really love the look of these screws against the maple plywood and drywall screws have an aggressive thread that holds plywood together really well alright then i set the back panel into place and once again i pre-drilled and countersunk all my holes and then used more drywall screws to fasten it to the cabinet and after that i slid the top of the cabinet into place and fastened that to the cabinet as well one final detail was to add the spacer underneath the bottom at the front of the cabinet and i just screwed that in from the sides okay now the carcass of the cabinet is complete and you can start to see why i love this pre-finished plywood it already looks so good so next i turn my attention to the face frame and i made it out of hard maple which i flattened on the jointer squared up an edge and then ran it through the planer until i got it to three quarters of an inch thick then i ripped it to rough width at the table saw and took it back to the planer to plane them down the final width this left each strip clean and perfectly dimensioned and at the miter saw i cut each of the short frame parts to length making sure they were identical after a final check for length i had all my frame parts ready to assemble now the way i like to make face frames is to lay the parts out exactly where i want them on the cabinet and then i mark with a line where each joint will line up and i also use letters to know which joints line up together now to assemble this i busted out the old pocket hole jig i think it's the perfect tool for making face frames because it's quick and easy i then got all my frame parts aligned in clamps to drive all the pocket screws into place this is where those marks i made on the frame are clutch once the screws were in i could pop off the clamps and my face frame was ready to go now to attach the face frame i just used wood glue more specifically i used titebond quick and thick it's great for this application because it stays in place when you brush it out and it doesn't cause a lot of drips like standard wood glue it also dries quite a bit faster than standard wood glue which means i don't have to have my cabinet in the clamps for very long i just placed my face frame where i wanted it and began clamping it down this is one task that does require a lot of clamps lots and lots and lots of clamps now while the glue dried on the cabinet i began working on the door now for this cabinet i'm making a frame and panel door that uses figure maple for the frame and pre-finished plywood for the panels now if you haven't seen my video on making frame and panel doors i go into all the details of how to make one of these i'll leave a link in the description below if you want to learn more after cutting my frame parts to length and width i ran a one-half inch deep groove down the center of each part the grooves will hold the panel in place and the width of the groove needs to match the thickness of your panel which in my case is just under a quarter of an inch i then use my tenoning jig to cut the tongues in each of the horizontal frame parts these tongues will fit the grooves i made in each of the side pieces of the frame i just made the tongues one half inch deep and just wide enough to fit in the grooves and you can see here what one of these finished tongues looks like i then put glue on the tongues and line them up in the grooves in a similar way i did with the marks on the face frame so everything lined up where i wanted it now getting the panels in place without wrecking the alignment of the frame was by far the hardest part but after i slid that top panel in place i could see the light i just added that last side and then checked everything for square before adding the clamps i really love this look of the hard maple frame with the pre-finished maple plywood in the middle it is so awesome now once the door was dried and out of the clams i eased the edges of each side with a block plane now this just adds a nicer feel to the door when it's opened and closed and after sanding to 120 grit and then 180 grit i applied an oil wax finish to the frame this is a dead simple finish that i enjoy applying and then buffing with a rag until you get that buttery smooth feel and a bit of a luster it's not super durable so i don't recommend it for cabinets in a laundry room or a kitchen but for shop furniture this is just fine i then began laying out for the hardware in this case i used euro style cup hinges again i explained this process in my door making video but i will say that you should follow the instructions that come with the hinges that you install because they will all have their own placement and depth requirements to install correctly now once i got the hinges installed on the door i lined everything up and installed the cabinet side of the hinge on small blocks that i attached to the inside of the face frame it was about this time that i realized i had made a mistake i bought hinges that were for frameless cabinets and i'd put a face frame on this one so i was using totally the wrong type of hinge and you can see how badly the door lined up with the cabinet so after a quick trip back to the store to get the right hinges i got the door installed and adjusted correctly i think this cabinet turned out great it looks beautiful and i love pre-finished plywood now that the cabinet construction was completed i needed to install some hangers inside the top part and the bottom part of the cabinet the first thing i did was added hooks for various style hearing protection and then i added hooks to the bottom of the cabinet to hold my aprons and the last thing i needed to do was install some magnetic catches so that this big door stayed closed then i can load all my gear into its new home everything has a place and everything in its place

Channel: MWA Woodworks

Views: 411,730

Keywords: diy storage cabinet, garage cabinets ideas, diy storage cabinet with doors, shop cabinets ideas, woodworking shop cabinets, shop organization systems, diy cabinet storage, simple cabinet design, woodworking projects to sell, how to build garage storage cabinets, how to make custom cabinets, how to make a tall cabinet, how to make tall cabinets, making a tall storage cabinet, custom shop cabinet, woodworking tool cabinet designs, tall cabinet storage ideas

Id: LxL0GjgHyHg

Length: 8min 58sec (538 seconds)

Published: Thu Sep 26 2019