Making a Matrix Mold

who or if you have a watch part one is watching this how to make a matrix mold so today we're gonna be molding this that we did for correcting a life cast and we'll be doing it as a matrix mold so when you have something like this and you're wanting to make a mold or that there's several different options that you can go you can go with we already discussed alginate which is basically the same as life casting which I know we haven't done a tutorial on yet but I will have that coming up probably before too long I'll teach you guys how to do some life casting you have silicone which is a fantastic option not cheap one but it's a good line which is what I would recommend because then you can do as many pulls out of it as you want unless you're only needing one in which case then you know it may be a little unnecessary nobodies silicone there's two options you can do what's called a layup mold and you know it's on a matrix mold and I'll go over the differences with you down so for two different options here this one is a matrix mold obviously not of this face and this is a matrix mold which actually sorry this is a layup mold which actually is of the face that we're doing and you can actually see it's the same face in fact this is the mold that I pulled that 16:30 core out of and if you look at this mold it has a weird dense around the outside of it that is as we were talking in correcting lifecast different options we have for molding you can actually lay a flange around it and put some keys and then if you if you wish to just bring this to this point here then it's just as the core that we made before but if you want to take that up and over the top you actually end up with a piece that looks like this which you can sculpt onto and you don't have to worry necessarily about any keys on the face because you've got your keys up in around the outside of it which will lock it in the only reason I don't like doing this is that I'm going to be pouring up out of 1630 this flange this is made out of fiberglass so it's it's rigid strong and doesn't have to be very thick but the 1630s gonna have to be probably this thick so it becomes a little excessive and wastes a bit of material so that's the only thing I don't really like about it but you can make these keys bigger or smaller I mean it really doesn't matter sometimes people just put negative keys in because they don't like having this here in case they're trying to sculpt and it gets in the way that's definitely an option but you know this is this is what I was talking about so you have your keys in the flange around the outside so your face can be clear of any touch points and you can sculpt all the way back all the way around if that's what you want to do so let's look at these two different molds different options that we have first there's the layup option so if we pull this out this is this is the mold and this what's called a mother mold or a case so the mother mold because it cradles the silicone if you didn't have the mother mold there it would just flop around and it would be distorted and and it's not going to provide us with an accurate we're an accurate casting from the mold so if you look at this one you see quite clearly that it's not very smooth basically what I did was I put a flange I built a wall around just like we did with with our other with our other molds and then I poured some over the top just like we did with the 1630 layup mold and it sort of pulled down in here and created this this flange here and then basically I figured up some silicone it's scooched it on smoothed it as best I could with some alcohol and then I've got some bits of silicone that I poured up in a little channel and just basically push them into the wet silicone and let it dry then did my mother mold over the of it and you end up with a brush-up mold these are certainly very common there they're fairly convenient there's not a lot of screwing around with them the other problem is that there's a couple things a couple of things that you need to understand about these firstly you can get the lamination if for some reason when you put your thickened batch on if there's a little gap it won't stick maybe there was some alcohol or something on the surface and again it doesn't stick then you're going to end up with with your surface peeling off and it's going to ruin your mold it doesn't happen often but it can't happen there's always the risk of that of having air bubbles or whatever secondly is that that sometimes you can't if you look here I'm not sure if you can see you can see how it's kind of clear there you can't always guarantee you the thickness is gonna be even so it it's harder to gauge which but that that's thick and silicone on and then you have to go in with little needle and sort of poke it in and measure it that way and then it just becomes becomes an issue and you know sometimes your keys won't stick properly you know it's mostly stuff to do with with the different layers sticking to themselves and and whether it's going to weaken your silicone or not so that's your brush up mold I use them quite a lot they do take a couple of days you know cuz the silicone depending on what you're using if using this is mold max 30 by smooth on it takes I think 12 hours for it to fully set up I could be wrong on that but I think from memory it's about 12 hours you know whereas a maysa mold you do one pour of your silicone and it's done whereas this takes you know you print code wait for it to set your thick and playing wafer to set then you knew your mother mold where the matrix mold we can do it all pretty much one sitting and then walk away and then since the silicone set we're good to go so what makes a matrix more different well firstly your silicone isn't it is a lot stronger there's no delamination because it's all poured up out of the same batch there's nothing trying to stick to itself or it's just it just gives you a much nicer more even coating of silicone you can you can really control how thick your silicone is it's just a better quality mold there's a couple things that are very obvious and a mother plant on a mother mold of a matrix mold that is there's usually some kind of a poor hold in the middle and then if you look usually there's a bunch of little what are called sprue halls or bleeder holes which we saw on one of our other molds that we had bleeder holes these ones to make sure the silicone doesn't trap in the air when we're pouring it up so if you pull the silicone out of a matrix mold most matrix molds will have this kind of crisscross pattern in them now this this mother molds made out of the epoxy and syntactic dough and fibreglass just like our other syntactic molds and then I put the feet on so it's nice and stable it's light and and then there's the silicone so most most of the time you'll find that matrix molds will have this sort of crisscross because what it does is it actually locks the silicone down in so you get a much more predictable predictable cast out of it and then I've got these these things here receivers here to hold that silicone in and there's just a matter of working your fingers push the silicone back into all of those little grooves so it locks into the mother mold nicely so that it is very very predictable and if you watch the one with correcting a live cast we were talking about possibly if you wanted to sculpt something that has the prosthetic covering the eyes this is an example of that you can see that it's got these domes over the eyes so anything I pull out of this is going to have a build up of like a little dome over the eyes so they can open their eyes inside the prosthetic it's great if you wanted to do something where it looks like the eye socket is has been gouged out you know so you don't have any eyeballs in there I did a film once where they wanted eyeless demons and so I sculpted the whole face forward about a half an inch to three-quarters of an inch and then sculpted some eyelids and just paint it black on the eyes underneath and it just looked like there was just no ways there they didn't want to have to go the expense of CGI you know removing the eyes so it worked really well so that's also an option for correcting or lifecast if you wanted to have something like that so this is the matrix mold today for the matrix model we're going to be making our our jacket out of ultra Cal 13 just because it's fast at a later date I can always put the core back inside it or run a or run a core in it remove the the jacket and then put a new jacket over the top because of the core inside it will will provide stabilization for the silicone so that it's still going to be accurate so we can always go ahead and replace this jacket later if I wanted but with this new with this new corrected life cast I probably won't use this one too much anymore because this has all of the inherent the cuts in it so I would much rather sculpt on that one which has all of the corrections done so let's get started in the Klang up of a matrix mold so we're gonna need a few things firstly we need some paper towel there's some paper towel here we're gonna need our clay this is just wet clothes just a water clay clay cutter and some knives and sticks and stuff some tools for cleaning up the edges so basically what we're gonna do is we're going to sculpt the silicone part first so your your matrix mold you always make you always make a [Music] jacket first so we're going to sculpt the clay on here to be exactly what we want our silicone to be we can gauge the thickness using our clay cutter make sure it's nice and even we can put all about our Peas it'll lock it in and then basically we go straight on that we make our jacket remove the jacket clean the clay out put the jacket back on and then we fill it and it'll just basically fill in the void that was left by the clay so that's uh that's how we do it so we're gonna just I guess get started I'll explain what's happening as we go first thing I want to do is to actually give you just a quick coat of release and then we're going to take out paper towel put it down now this this stage probably is not as important when you're molding something hard like this but if you're going to be doing a matrix mold of something you've sculpted then you definitely we're going to want to put a barrier between your sculpt and the water spray so what this does is it just gives us that a little bit of the barrier and protects our sculpt it also makes it so that we don't have to really clean the residue of the water clay off the things we're molding see that also yes okay look at this piece here it's going to go ahead and just place it on they can hold it all kind of in place I'm kind of pushing out a little bit on the nose this is going to be a thin spot but we run that strip over the top so it's not going to have a problem it'll have that thicker sort of key on top of it so it's not gonna be an issue that we have to do so as you can see I haven't made this silicon super thick I don't want to waste a bunch of silicon and because it's going to be very even that alone will give it a strength plus we'll have the lattice kind of running over it which also will provide it with the strength takeoff crusts I forgot to do that on that tough one minutes all right okay so just kind of eyeball it the more you do it the easier the eyeballing gets to be able to fit pieces together so I'm just winding that up here you sure that's straight along the bottom and then using the knife I'm just kind of following where the where the other one was if you get if you miss a little bit you know it's just trim it and any gaps you can just fill in with the scraps well as I said the more the more you do this kind of clay and stuff the closer you're going to be able to get to see some of these things together quite easily tiny bead along and I'm thinking that we're going to be able to make this work just with one more one more slice and then we'll just use these scraps to fill it around it then sponge it all down get it nice and even [Music] there's that corner now it's gonna feel weird because putting it over the Hector town makes it a little springy so you can see that I can kind of push down it it's not it's not totally solid which is a little little weed to get used to it first okay sponge I look too worried about the sponge box on this it's okay so now it's nicely nicely smooth down just gonna just stick actually before I do that or you know I'm just gonna back down to where it was okay I'm gonna just throw a flange around this help lock it into the mother mold okay so we've got six strips now that side here yeah it's also important that you don't push them with your fingers you want to try to keep this as clean and flat nice as you can and remember don't try and force these together we can always go back in and add a little triangles to to fill those which will make for a much stronger clay up no you guys have seen me cry stuff up a few times by now so now you understand the process involved but it doesn't hurt to watch it one more time always like moldy alternative oops carelessness their lifetime flange I'm just going to go in here and I'm going to cut some triangle try and give up places shapes in this reason we've done them like this is because the material for the mother mold will flow in here and that will lock the silicone into the mother mold so it's not going to move it's hard not to do it so that it's the other way around it's always kind of a little tricky for me to remember which way to do these a little OCD kind of do each slide each one by the side so that I know that I'm gonna have the same number and they're going to be approximately in the same place so that it looks balanced not a bevel this I just do it pretty much this straight somebody's gonna do a little clean up these edges this clean of the cab all right so they're all in place just gonna wrap all of this scrap play throw it into a bag now I want to have keys to be a little a little bit thicker than that just so that you know locking them in takes a little bit more precious or holding your place yeah a little bit maybe that's probably what we had plus 50% there's no real rules for half-pig bishop they it's just whatever you say you use this as my guide for my keys always gonna stop the spine well that just happened to be perfect length don't be that that's ever happened like that before usually the topmost part here is where we're going to put the poor hole so I like to have like to have the kind of ribs for one of the better would the cross ones all sort of gathering at that point there so that it helps the flow means we're gonna have to come in just cut a tiny little piece to fit in there but that's that's not a here nor there I want to make sure there's no little gap in between [Music] now it's just a matter of going in and filling up all of the little gaps make sure there's no gaps between this pot and these keys now if you screw up and miss some can fix it afterwards that don't be too distraught if if you miss one it's just it's easier to clean it up the clay form than to take the mother mole and start chiseling bits away or drilling bits away or whatever would be necessary to get that to where you want it to be now you want to make sure that you don't as you're doing this you're not digging into your you get into your first covering with a big score cuz that'll make you so the kind have a groove where it's thinner almost like a perforation you know if it's gonna tail when you pull on it out that's the spot the notaire [Applause] running it over with the brush just then I'll hit it with the sponge just smooth it okay go ahead and pull it done and of Christal yeah hey wait that's dry I think I'm gonna probably put another two or three coats on it really doesn't matter at this point about building up a thickness cuz it's anything that we add to it is just going to be more silicone and it's anything to be such a nickel negligible amount of certainly when you're dealing with cutting edges and those types of things that it becomes an issue so I'm going to do that a couple more coats of that and then I'll be back and we'll keep going so we're all set and ready to go before we do anything though I do want to use some of our trusty ease release 200 just to make sure that's not gonna happen again okay so we've got water we've got our slop bucket here that's just for washing brushes what rinsing off hands and stuff but some cut strips of burlap or Hessian depending where you are in the world yeah we got a bucket for mixing in I've got altra Cal 30 down on the floor and a big tub I'm not gonna lift that up now I'm going to put guess about about an inch an inch of water in the bottom of that you can see there's about an inch and then it's time to add some ultra cow now you want to mix this that it becomes the consistency of like kind of like a whipping cream we want it to be runny but we don't want it to be really really runny we wanted to be kind of thick but still able to be brushed on make sure there's no lumps or chunks okay so you can see that that's kind of still runny still be all the detail but it doesn't just run off when so that's about perfect for what we need so I'm just gonna take my brush for you basically we're just brushing his hands what'd she get into yeah now it's really important that this case goes all the way to the board not to the edge of the clay like normally normally we just do stuff to the edge of the clay but because we have to actually create a seal that's not gonna leak silicone all over the floor we definitely want it to go all the way to the board and we're actually gonna have to change boards as well because I just sprayed mold release all over this all over the sculpt and it went all over the board as well so we're gonna have to change it out for a new board okay so we've got the whole thing now he's understood so now what we want to do to make sure that all those keys that we put into that flange filled and we want to get rid of any big steps because when we put the blow-up on the billet we don't want the burlap to have to sort of go around all of this detail we want it to kind of just kind of sit in just go lay across the top so it's kind of like the fiberglass in that it doesn't want to necessarily Bend all the way around and it doesn't have to be totally flat but you do definitely want to get rid of any really sharp little tons and and bumps so I'm just gonna running some down here and kind of like a little ramp that make it much easier to light we're going to be laying essentially cloth over this we will make sure that there's no no peaks and no to the valleys that it will create areas where the burlap is not in contact with the print coat if there's a big peak pointy bit it'll sit like a tent and we don't want that we want to make sure that it is as smooth as possible and as easily usually able to take the burlap now the part that that goes onto the board past the thing we're going to end up at the end we're going to end up finding that all alive so I'm not too worried about how neat that is but you probably want to try and just kind of keep it as as manageable as possible we don't want to have it you know go three inches wide basically need to you know a pinch off the edges so that the sill closing a no leak out hey I call it done for the moment now if you if I put my finger on that see how it kind of picks up creates like you know Peaks up what we want is we want to wait until that is set enough that when I touch it it doesn't automatically peak up like like that and that's when we know that yes put some water in this okay and now we wait alright so you can see that a lot of the real wet shine has gone up at I touch it with my finger it just leaves a fingerprint it doesn't actually pick up the the ultra Cal like it was before so that's how we know that this is at least firm enough that it's not going to be disturbed by putting the other stuff on and that's what we want water here that still had a tiny really hoped you can lift it up no hidden you want this just a tiny bit tiny bit less viscous Tony running over the last time you can see it still it still hangs a little bit but most of it will run off that's good we want it to be able to put me out into the throw up [Music] doing that two at a time and I want to leave a really good coat on there so that it will sort of fill any any little gaps just slightly making sure that that's against against the advice remember again that we want to make sure that we're sort of blending out the edges just gonna double this one make sure we gently but firmly I've seen that on one down now if you buy your burlap on a roll I buy mine from Home Depot order on a roll it's exactly this width and they were just cut into bits and pieces and that's the most convenient way that I've found but if you buy it in a big sheet I would strongly recommend cutting it diagonally against the grain so that way rather than it being okay so I apologize my battery ran out on my camera so we missed just putting these last little end caps on but luckily we've got most of the rest of it so so we just make sure that everything has at least a coating of a double double dot piece of burlap some parts like through here has for some parts are here have maybe six where they've overlapped and then I'll put that that cap on the end but on the whole I'll make sure that everything has some reinforcement to it no we're gonna do is we're gonna mix up another batch of ultracar but this time it's gonna be super super thick and it's gonna be almost like a clay just finish that all down and make sure that it's nice for your hands so that you're not lob some bits and pieces so when you add the water to this mix just make sure you pull out any come off the thing pieces you can see how thick that is I'm just gonna cut something you'll notice about the ultra kal is that if you jiggle it see how it becomes liquid and just runs off so you want to make sure that you're not jiggling things around because it's kind of like quicksand and that movement will make it runny and you'll end up just chasing it and chasing it and chasing it and chasing it'll drive you crazy I mix up a little bit more because we need to throw it [Applause] tie this all and formed water in there this is quite quite thick [Applause] now if you watch now molding with syntactic dough tutorial you'll notice that this is not too dissimilar from the one so you know it's kind of saggy for jiggling that board I'm gonna make sure that you have enough at the edge of Al clay flange so I'm just extra bed we'll just grind it off anyway at the very end but don't want it to snap up and then have to be whole you can always clay it in with some claim company bit of saying this just a way to kidney and the kidneys not going to jiggle it nearly as much as my hand was so find that might have a bit more success put on the type to make it flat is what's causing the problems just too too much of it was too heavy and it was starting to snag down the sides and remove that until this is set up a bit more yeah I'm just using my palms just a trend bring this up yeah just stop that sag this is just a round kidney this serration box some people like to leave those on there because they give a grip for the hands I am not really one of those people see a lot of people with online tutorials and they they're throwing stone molds but the molds just look so awful you know they just lumpy and bumpy and just kind of crappy looking not nice for your hands when you're handling them they look pretty to make a mold that looks pretty takes five minutes longer no my mother exaggeration maybe ten minutes longer time to make one that's ugly so right now I'm just looking at cinema areas like I can see on on this slide it kind of concave Xion so it doesn't match so I'm just kind of trying to add some without creating a sag which is the challenge you can see that every time I move the ultra Cal it's wanting to sag on me but I will a real triumph and the more this thickens up the more we'll be able to just kind of manhandle it without without having it stop this tag Pecola I do is let the story to come in again everything on here from about here down it's going to get ground off in the end i'ma kind of rounding this up and over we're stopping that sag from happening and then what I'll do is I'll just go in at the last minute this is sufficiently sag proof and throw throw some extra on there flatten it off I will be doing a series on working with ultra Cal 30 just like I did with the 1630 because it isn't actually there's actually a very good material it used to be the staple for effects work almost all the molds used to be made out of ultra Cal 30 back in the day and now I've just it's not hard enough it's not not the same as it used to be it's gonna use my round kidney to just good smooth the finish down a little bit so those serration box Oh it's just just a couple seats on just give us nice so dick down here I noticed with my I was running my kidney around and he says is starting to get warm which means it's nothing to cure nicely as it's best to sit up you want to just keep them rubbing on it and rubbing on it and rubbing on it and what that does is it makes it very very smooth and once once it gets to a certain point you're gonna fly into that you'll get like a powdery powdery residue on the surface so you can use that and it kind of sands it down and makes it very smooth very nice finish so if you look carefully see it's got these sort of powdering us to it now that's what we're going to use to be able to just fold down nicely this is actually this definite a lot of people will skip because they're in too much of a hurry actually gives you very very pretty ultra cowl molds the outside surface down enough think that's enough okay so I left it for a while it's now time to be cured and it's time to open it up so I'm just gonna chop it off just a tiny bit of the super thin stuff I don't wanna necessarily have it stay fit but I don't want to chisel off enough that it goes down into the into the silicone but I do need to be able to have some kind of some kind of a not super blended pointy edge I need to have somewhat of a edge very carefully there's a sculptor pretty much still intact yep just that one whoops and apparently my thumbnail right then the rest of it is all still in pretty good condition we can definitely work with that you can see that the see that the paper towel did its job now it's just a matter of cleaning up like which should largely come out clean because of all of the crystal clear I put on it and I'll release so it should be should be not too difficult to just peel this out see how easily that's and how cleanly that's which is good that's what we want so now I am going to I'm going to run I'm going to run over to the grinder and I'm going to grind this all down to this line and grundel down to that one and that way we're not got such a lodge so sprawling amount so they're coming up so I'll be back when that's all ground up and I think that you guys need to watch me do it you've seen me grind stuff down it's you know man you don't really need to see it again you watched it in probably two or three tutorials right now so I'll just take care of this and then I'll come back we're done with the grinding and see that's a nice clean edge all the way around which would be great next thing that we have to do is to figure out how we're going to put the silicones in there you'll notice that as I was grinding this I just turned this upside down for a red-hot second just to flatten that out nicely so there are a few options that we have I know that there are some friends of mine who will get a 2-liter soda bottle and what they do is I guess for want of a better example would use this empty alcohol bottle will just imagine that this isn't a flip top lid but it's just a regular lid and what they'll do is when they're making their jacket they'll actually put this down and make the jacket around it so that it locks it in and then what they do is they cut the bottom out of this and then just and then just screw that in and use that as a funnel to put the silicone into in a drain straight down in there so that's definitely one option that we have the other option we have is to make sure this is really flat get a big fat like three or four each tube make sure that we have a hole that size hot glue and they just fill it and let it pour down to another option that we have the option that I'm gonna go for he's a little more involved but first I think it works well so what I've got is this kind of little contraption here that I've made so it's uh it's a PVC so PVC you can see in here that I've used some of that plumbers epoxy and I've made it into a funnel and then I put a coupler on top and then what we can do is just get some some so now what we need to do is attach it there and now that's basically the same thing as using the bottle but little nicer and I've used this for quite a bit if they can see on here that I've written ten only ten only because I pour a lot of silicone sometimes it's platinum sometimes it's ten and the Platinum if I pour it into the tin that the residue from the tin silicone will cause our QR inhibition and cause problems for it so let's plan this out so we're going to use this High Point here as the point of injection or whatever and then we need to think about everywhere that it could trap air as it starts to fill up so usually what I like to do is I'll put one sort of about here here there there now this isn't necessarily to avoid air trap what this is is it lets me know how far up the mold the silicone is let's put yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah just so we make sure we get those corners and these are gonna have to be on a funny angle because because if I just drill straight through it's just going to drill into here so I'm gonna have to drill these out on an angle another one yeah I think we're in good shape with that so this first hole is just a pilot hole [Music] as you can see it's just a just a pilot hole because I've got this piece of PVC that I cut as you can see I just took the grinder and just tape it it down so that when we cut a hole we'll cut it so that we can just sort of pop that in there and we will just it'll just stay in there and then that will allow us to pop this on top oh we can just take that out just put that straight onto it which will be actually better you'll reduce the reduce that so I've got this three six thirteen sixteenths paddle bit excuse me [Applause] and that pilot hole you can see just fits that little you say that that's sitting in there really nicely I do actually because I think that that because this was so thin I'm gonna grind that down a little bit I'll do that later so that when we have already and it's not going to be sticking out into the silicon so if you look here you'll see that that's actually protruding into the inside of where the silicon is going to need to be and although this is quite a thick part I'd like to avoid having that be as much in there as much as it is there we go so I'll just grab the tip of that down about a about a quarter inch and that'll be perfect and so now you know screw holes I believe is gonna miss that this one I think is right on that foot so I think I'm gonna have to move it up and just angle it a little bit [Music] and now it's just a matter of button [Music] popping a whole bunch of those dots well it's not wanting to so I'm gonna go through I'm going to pop pop us a hole each of these each of these points we marked it's going to be very boring for you guys to sit and watch me drill about 20 holes so I'll be back when we're done I made some adjustments from our original plan so you can see that those originally meant to be a hole there but I moved it to here to avoid that foot I think I did that when we were on camera I was originally meant to be a hole there I was finding this one was right on that stop bit where it starts to get fixed so I moved I moved that one down about an inch so that I could get a better angle and so each of these outside ribs I just moved it down you can see there's about an inch from where I had it marked and then I added I added a closer one here added close the ones here closer one there and close one there to the bottom so that way we've got a lot of airflow coming out of the mould so it should help with the silicone to be able to fill into the mould faster if there's only a couple of little screw holes the silicone can only enter the mold as fast as the air can evacuate the mold and so if we've got lots of screw holes will find that the silicone will be able to flow freely and and then as as the silicone hits each of these sprue holes we'll just plug it plug it plug it plug it plug it and just sort of fill and fill and fill and they look at the next fruit hole and in the next brew hole and then the next screw hole in the next row hole will be able to kind of track where our silicon is in the mold and then we should be we should be good to go so what I want to do now is I'm going to go and shove this in the oven for a little while just to dry it out a little bit it's still feeling a little damp and the hot glue is not going to want to stick to dry dry ultra Cal the other thing I'm going to do is rather than try and relocate that corrected life cast I'm just going to really clean off the board well with some alcohol release that we put on so I'm just gonna scrub it down really well with alcohol all the way around and I'm hoping that that's gonna be enough to allow it to stick but I will also take other extra precautions like strapping strapping that to the board with a mold strap and playing around it so we'll have to redundancy two redundancies to the hot glue in the clay and also the mold strap holding it down so I'm gonna take care of all of that and I'll see you when we get back [Applause] let's drive it off enough take some of this mold released now you do not want to get any mold release on this part here only on the inside wait till the fog subsides so now we're gonna very carefully and I'm looking in the hole now we know that the tip of the nose is the high point so if you look down in there you want to be able to see the tip of that nose there that's how I know that it's pretty much centered in the jacket what some people do is they'll trace a mark on the on the board before they remove it but since I was going to grind some down I didn't see the point in doing that because it just would have been so far out because I ground off about this much all the way around when I suppose I could have just given me a guide just make sure that I bring it in and off but this is a pretty good way it's not ever led me astray yet I ground this down like we had discussed and checked it and now it looks fine my hot glue gun I'm just gonna up a bead just around there just to be on the safe side I believe that cleaned the board down really well with alcohol and then I actually going to add some acetone and cleaned off a lot of the crystal clear buildup which is a good way to make sure that I know that the mold release is gone because it was sitting on top of the crystal clear crystal please not there anymore that can be pretty pretty certain that there's no more mold release on the board okay so we've got that hot glue all the way around water clay and I'm just gonna kind of pack it just to ensure that it's Oh silicone tight look so that we filled in that sprue hole this is what I was trying to avoid thinking of doing a tutorial on just making bits and pieces for your shop like we'll go through in detail how to make that funnel thing we'll go through how to make a an injection gun how to make you know just different bits and pieces that you're you know needing your shop maybe a cheap oven to bake foam in if any you guys watching this think that that would be a good idea just put a comment there just saying that you think that you'd like that or if you think it would be a waste of time just just say no don't bother about that they certainly don't want to waste my time doing it if it's not going to be of benefit to you guys you know another thing we could make is a is a way like I've got that nice clay cutter I had a special order that and some place to stock on but a lot of places don't and so we could cover how to make a sort of homemade clay cutter that will give you several different thicknesses a clay okay so that's a lonely and lost but not least by out this mold Stratus seeing much better days okay so down there pretty good pretty tight Oh [Applause] so they got that the whole thing is quite up then ready to pour already set up mix out slipping down sure you sniff you get the stick silicon is not the newest let's thicken up a little bit mmm pretty sure let me put the catalyst in it'll reduce the viscosity quite a bit [Applause] take forever sorry how many of you around a bit 1700 grams very much stuff with 1,500 well 1500 exactly I have to put 150 grams of catalyst and I looked it up we were talking about earlier about the cue a time of the mold max I was actually off it's 24 hours so to a pressure up mode will take us two days or as this will just take us stay in a few hours [Applause] of course we want to keep mixing until you have no white visible at all any white streaks silicone base it has nothing catalyzed and will not cure I'm gonna make sure that we take the sides down really really well now you can dig su silicon if you like I'm not gonna bother doing it today just because I'm lazy I only really did gas if I'm doing stuff with silicon that is like for prosthetics or if I'm doing molds that are gonna be clear and not very thick and I worry about it I don't worry too much about otherwise I haven't really had too many problems with it quite lazy of me but I'm gonna call it done I pour into here just to try and reduce as many air bubbles as I can all next 30 has a 45-minute pop wash pup life means that's working time before it starts to thicken up and becomes unworkable okay so that's see that that's now quite full and it's slowly slowly going down and that's the speed that the silicone is going to move that through that two-inch pipe sometimes what I like to do is to just make sure the tops clear and then just blow down into it just increase the pressure I know some people who've made a little cap with a hole and they'll blow compressed air in and you can see just by doing that it's gone down quite a bit so that's I've still got all of this to still put in there as well so it's just as well it's got a 45 minute pot life so I'm going to finish pouring this up and I'll bring you back when we start seeing some sprue hall action on this thing okay so if we look at these two screw holes here you see we've got a little bit of I'm going to actually going on with the silicone so I'm just gonna get a little ball of oil clay I'm just gonna plug some more I guess you going on down in down in this one see some pink down in there some down in here you spent he's about to stop bleeding there's another one down here in other words here there are some people who like to get a screw and they'll just basically screw that in there till it's snug that now is not going to leak anymore rather than using the clay so it just really depends on what you prefer this is ready for another four and this one looks like it's got some pink in there obviously the silicones come down it's flowed down the sides so it's filled then and we haven't got any bleeding around no there's one stop yeah yeah so this one he's still got some I'm gonna just sit and keep pouring this in and and they'll come back periodically and fill you guys in with everything so you can see the progress sitting here watching silicone poring over 40 minutes is going to be incredibly boring for you so I'll just check back in in a little bit when we've had some progress okay well that was an adventure sorry didn't get back sooner the silicone started thickening up too much to really be able to whoa so I had to make a makeshift plunger and plunge the silicone down in it which it has now filled all of the screw holes but problem is that as you can see the pressure cracked our now hot glue and now it's starting to leak out through the clay now having said that that is not running it's I'm doubting very very much if it's going to cause us really any problems but I did pop an extra strap on there just to try and clamp this side down which was the so I'd had more of the issues I'm gonna go ahead and assume that this is full since all of the screw holes are now bleeding and I'm going to leave this sit now for I guess the next 24 hours till it's cured and then I'll come back and we'll be able to have a look at how it worked out if you're if you're faced with the same dilemma of old silicone that's a little bit thicker than you would like you can get some silicone oil and thin it down a little bit I made a make you small with this silicone about a month ago and it worked fine but I'm wondering if the stuff on the very bottom would just have a little bit thicker well then stuff that was alright so I guess I'll see you in about 24 hours then we'll pull this thing apart and see how it went the little foam as I was messing around with it kind of loose but normally what you do is you just kind of get it bend it and then just cut this this silicone would be a little silicone to connect connecting the two you just cut it it's pretty easy [Music] so this side here which was clamped down fine this side here where I spent a little bit a little thicker doesn't really matter [Applause] to bring this out if you out the Christian clean you can see I did quite a solid buildup of the crystal clear it can all be cleaned out with some water once we get the crystal clear out and I just scraped off the silicon because nothing really sticks to silicon except more silicone piece of pearl up [Applause] it is just a cheap brush to cut the bristles shoulder pulled the silicone out now I'm just going through just cutting off all of these little ways more sprue hole it's because they're going to make it nearly impossible to be able to put the silicone back in good you're not gonna be able to force them all the way down into that little thing in the holes I've also trimmed the edge and I'm going to trim at these dramatic ease then I'm going to take my my jacket and I'm going to grind it all the way back so that this key here is flush with the silicon so you'll see the silicone on the outside just to make it neater and thank you better now this will have a really tiny lip where it got a little over over poured from when we when I shouldn't include you guys in it from when I forced the silicone down in there it might affect them hold at all it was bothering me that that half of it you could see the keys in the half of it you couldn't so just kind of trimming all this excess off and it'll look [Music] we should get back in there we have it you're gonna go run this grind this jacket down so look there you can just see where it's just ever so slightly raised which really won't affect the mold one bit in its function it doesn't look dreadful looks better than having half of this all solid silicon in half not just I'm gonna run that down and then we'll have the finished piece I would ground it all down there's just some little bits and pieces like this on this just kind of cleaning up and when you put the silicon back and you want to avoid getting any chunks of anything down in there because it will prevent the silicon from sitting into the into the case mold properly it's what's left for us to do is to mark it up and we're done okay so this is mr. white corrected and this was 2017 and there we go that's ready to be run I'm going to be running a core out of that today and that's one matrix mold complete thank you for watching we'll see you next time

Channel: Toxic Image Studios

Views: 50,303

Rating: 4.7913041 out of 5

Keywords: matrix mold, mold making, silicone, FX, fx makeup, special effects

Id: n9S2y92D5_A

Length: 166min 36sec (9996 seconds)

Published: Tue Apr 17 2018