Make That Thing JUMP When You Whack The Gas!

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so the last few videos we've talked about basic timing principles and we talked about the vacuum advance and mechanical advance and total events and now we want to talk about curving the distributor so this is like where the magic happens for a hot run so and this is also one of the areas where modern computer controlled cars have a distinct advantage because the timing curve is infinite it's not controlled by mechanical means so you can let's say wolf idle when you first hit the throttle you can give the engine 50 degrees of initial and then bring it right back to like you know in the 30th so range and then once the engine hits four thousand five thousand rpm and volumetric efficiency is maxed out you could start bringing the timing back and make power up there so and there is an old-school method of doing that I'm gonna show you that at the end of the video so let's just talk about timing curves as they apply to the average street strip car and unfortunately we're gonna have to use gross generalities with this and that's because there are so many different configurations of distributors and styles of there's so many different ways you can go about this that what you're gonna have to do is just take this basic information and then apply it to directly to your distributor up do your homework and do your research and find out what parts are available for it looking accepted practices are for the exact type of the ignition that you have but I'm going to use these Chrysler's to illustrate the point because the principles are the same across the board just the the details of how it's done on any given distributor is what's going to change and of course the easiest ones of all to do this to work with other General Motors distributors have the advanced weights right on top and it take the rotor off and there's your advance weights and Springs and everything else so those are easiest kreisel is the second easiest together disassemble distributor get to it Ford's are a little tricky but you don't have to do the homework and figure out it in ports - I mean this works across the board for any centrifugal advanced distributor so you just have to do your homework and figure out worse fear so from the factory most of these almost every distributor is equipped with a heavy set of Springs and what these Springs do is that allows these weights these centrifugal weights to extend at a certain rpm and advance the timing they move the top hip the rim of the top half of the distributor is hung from where not directly attached to the bottom half of the distributor so as these advanced weights move out it'll rotate the top half head of the bottom half and that's where the timing becomes advanced so there are three basic phases of curving a distributor you're back in the day back in the old days every speech I've ever every good speed shop how to distribute a machine where they would pop your distributor in there and plot the curve based on you know your engines particular needs but again we're talking about gross generalities so let's just talk about three basic phases and then you go ahead and apply it to yourself so the first phase and this is for basically a stock engine stock cam maybe headers maybe a carpet or an intake tight converter tight gears relatively heavy car the first step is just to get the advance to come in sooner and this distributor right here there's a pretty good example of it this one here has the stock advanced weights but these Springs have been replaced by lighter ones so this is this is a well this is about the same as the stock one you'd find there but on the Chrysler's there's the light spring and the heavy spring and in this case the heavy spring has been replaced by a lighter heavy spring and the purpose of this again as is as rpm comes up is to allow these weights to come out and rotate the top half of the distributor into an advanced position these sell kits they sell advance kits that will you know again you could tailor it to yours cific needs but the advance kits generally consists of a later set of Springs than the stock ones now what we used to do back in the day and I still do on my own cars is just eliminate the one heavy spring just dig in there and pop it off that's it that's all you got to do leave the lighter spring and now what happens is right off idle soon as the engine starts the the weights will start to advance out I remember these are these are linked by a plate that isn't on here right now so that's why you can pop one spring off and leave the other but these will start to advance at a lower rpm and give you full centrifugal let's say in like the 1,500 to 2,000 rpm range now the second phase of doing this is where you get into lightening the springs and then limiting the amount of advance now you can see on this distributor this one the slots here here's your's it looks like stock again so here's that tie plate and you can see the slots are our stock on altered and the first step with doing this so this is when you're going from just a mild tune - you've got a cam and a thing you got some bigger headers in it you know you really you know you need instant reaction right so what you would do here is you would the first step would be to advance the weights to approximately that position and you would want to fill the part of this slot with Wells so you can see right okay I can't I can't do two things at the same time but the area between this pin and the the slot itself you would want to fill out well to bring it to approximately there and now what you're doing is you're limiting the total advance so with some terrific advance so this is what's going to happen is when you drop the distributor in time for total advances a1 you want 36 degrees total you want it to come in quickly so you put lighter springs in it and then you don't want it to go all the way back to let's say 8 or 10 degrees initial you want to totally go back to around 20 degrees initial because remember Tim lower solar lower rpm low rpm cylinder pressure you need advanced you need this thing to go as soon as he hit the gas so by going to the lightest springs that allows the weights to come out quicker and by limiting this slot over here you're if you drop this in at 32 degrees and you limit this to about 1/2 which is like around 12 to 15 degrees total advanced that means that you'll drop the distributor timer for total in let's say 36 degrees and then when it's relaxed and idle you'll have about 20 degrees so that makes the car really snappy as soon as you touch the gas dam she wants to go so that's like stage 2 stage 3 this is where angels fear to tread this is basically a full race distributor so go back to this one here and you can see that it has no Springs on the weights at all and these slots are welded completely right and what that does is this distributor is locked whatever you drop this thing in it let's say you drop it at 36 degrees well that's what you have at idle that's the this has this has two effects the first effect is that when you step on the gas this thing is a beast it's a snappy I mean night and day over over let's say a curve the distributor or a stock or stripper I mean you're talking instant go right and even the internal idle with that one you know the density you know people kind of look for that you know what I mean but the downside to this is that the advance is gonna be all in when you go to start it so what happen is you turn the key and this thing is going to try to tear the nose off the starter as soon as that thing goes to goes to light it'll rotate a couple times at that time and as soon as it goes to light it's gonna want to kick back hard and there are two ways to come back this this method that I've always used and then there's one that's just generally accepted as a way to go one that I've always used is simply partially flood the mortar before you go to start especially when it's it's hot when the mortar is warm pumped against three or four times hold it about a quarter of the way down as soon as you touch the key damn she's gonna light if it doesn't by any chance repeat that process again because if you don't do that you don't hold the throttle partially open it's gonna want to kick back to the air DiNozzo the more accepted way to do it is to add a an ignition switch so you'll have the key we're way you're going to rotate the motor and then a separate way that kicked the ignition on so this way the engine is already spinning when the ignition hits and they'll start immediately like that 95 percent of the race cars out there are set up just like that that's why you have a separate sparkling you know instead of just a you know a regular key of a start buttoning the ignition switch so you can start an engine that's fully loaded with advanced right at you know an island so that's that now we talked about old-school method of tuning this is this is realizable this is like this was the bill Jenkins trick okay and I use this I use this on many cars we use this on bottle rocket actually and what you do is you take a dual point distributor like this one there's going to be a lead set of points and a trailing set of points the lead set of points is going to open up close first during the rotation and then generally speaking as this is just about to close as this soon as just about the clothes this set is just about to open now normally they're going to be fed like this release two wires and this they're going to be joined and this is going to go to your negative on the coil what you do is you run these wires through a switch so that this way you separate them so this way you can toggle between one set of points and the other set of points or basically low-rpm you can set yourself up for it's a 36 38 degrees hit it hard right off line and then when RPM comes up the volumetric efficiency engine peaks at around you know four or five thousand rpm you know every agent is a little bit different at that point you can the timing and pick up a bunch of power they vary from from distributed to distributor I've seen them for with it as much as like 12 degrees and I've seen them in as little as like 4 degrees difference between the opening and closing point and like the pro stock eyes and the the modified Eliminator guy is back in a day they would actually read rill the breaker plate to put the second set of points exactly where they needed it to be you know as old-school science but it's essentially duplicating what they're doing with today's fuel-injected cars worried you know computer-controlled ignitions so that's it for basically you know distributor tuning curving it just real we have one other thing I wanted to point out know know how it is on all the distributors but I found is when you do lock out one of these distributors like I've done with this one here and you weld these with these tabs completely solid do it with the rotor in the full advanced position so in other words like when it's at rest these the tabs are to the inside and when it's fully advanced the they're to the outside and what you want to do is bring them all the way to the outside and weld them up from the center out and the reason for that is because the phasing of the rotor where the rotor is phased in relationship to the post on the cap that's where it's optimized when they engineered the distributor they had intended it to the operative let's see it extended speeds that like 3000 rpm and so that's where the road of phasing is right about perfect so that's why whenever you interview do modify the advanced slots on the distributor always do biased towards the advanced side because the phasing to the contacts and the cap is going to be more accurate than if you just left it in idle so that's it I hope you got something out of that see you tomorrow
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Channel: Uncle Tony's Garage
Views: 254,643
Rating: 4.9413438 out of 5
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Length: 12min 47sec (767 seconds)
Published: Thu Jul 02 2020
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