Machining R8 Tooling For The Bridgeport . Part 5 .

sorry this crack on okay because of the angle and I have the compound swung out we have to cut this taper from the rear so I've just the only tool I can get around to reach is a boring bar it should be all right so if we run it at a slow speed so we don't get any vibration and I think we're going to use a bit of coolant on it to help I've just noticed there I'm getting something's moved [Music] that increment rate it's just Rea just that has happened some time to time [Music] yeah something's move there [Music] because all right the jewels [Music] [Music] [Music] okay [Music] okay well that was a pain in the ass because of the bloody piece moved again I'll show you might be able to show you a better picture why what happened later on it's really they because of the undercut we put in in the rear where we were gripping for the grinding allowance and the notches and the jaws they're sort of weren't lining up real well so I would grip them on the outside now so tap him in truth so we'll keep on trucking would have been a good one to have for bloopers especially if the part fell out okay [Music] [Music] trace that speed a bit [Music] [Music] I like my pretty close [Music] you have a check to see how we're going [Music] it's a way remember a few episodes ago we made out I write taper gauges this is precisely what this is for I get a measurement [Music] we're just under three inches I think we need to be three inches on the I've already tuned this one so this is going to be a guide for all of them just a fraction under three inches [Music] that's a near nowhere there so that's our taper completely so that's one one of the uses for the bar eight gauge it'll serve like we've just used it now for the roughing for a guideline and when we do our final finished grinding we use the other end of the gauge because that is exactly the larger diameter of the taper and what we do is we reference the front of the gauge to the rear of the part that will give us our length that's a bit of the drawing decision okay so what we'll do now is we'll just tackle us radius we'll get this all cleaned up and then polished up and then this one will be done so this is our radius tool so every time we use this on this job I'll just give these the radius a touch up on the oil stone just keeps it nice and sharp and you get a nice clean radius so get this set up [Music] and on Santa use our bernieoh hot guys enjoy my skate preset okay and we will use the sand touch just to support it [Music] okay let's come up alright so I'll probably switch over to a carbide tool now and just take that hardened edge off there because this high-speed still struggles with this hard stuff [Music] Hey [Music] this Civic and just break that edge a little bit okay because it's nice rounded edge on there nice radius in there so just give this a polish up and this one's darling we have to bore out one of the life Drive dogs as it just doesn't quite fit the Ann Arbor we need to use it on so just take a little cut through okay this is our setup for machining the tapered portion as well as a parallel portion or up to the tape as now so I'm also start doing it between centers as they'll all be ground between centers when we finish we come up to a finishing cup now [Music] and so that's close so the checkout size for these take it back out the life we won't need the drive dog on anymore that comes off yeah we use a type of ring gauge they said that type of ring gauge over we're looking for three inches so we got I've got about a sixteenth to go we just keep checking it with our gauge so what we do now we don't need the drive dog on anymore we can just use the friction between the Sanders is enough to drive it [Music] what were the hands maestro's plane and we're there bang on okay so that's good enough for a measurement for our roughing procedure because these are still oversized tapers okay and they will get ground as we've explained so I'll run through the rest of them like that and then I'll put them back in and change a tool and we'll just face off the back and we'll put a small radius on here and of course is a shame for to do on here okay with we just saw our last of the others doing the right features we had a situation come up with this particular one here this is a slitting saw Arbor that we're building now what's happened this is all too common in machining we've roughed it out and this one has a hole running all the way through the guts of it so she's Hollow so when I set this back up in the Chuck Ida script and clocked it in the Forge aw yeah what about six or seven thousand out down this end here so we had this this end running true in six or seven ther here I couldn't it wouldn't tap straight it wouldn't do nothing so what are things happen there because we've taken so much off the outside and we also have a hole drilled through it I'm pretty sure is the stresses in the steel I've caused this one to walk now when I did the other one this one here also has a hole through it too but it has a smaller bore in the end so we were able to complete this one between centers so we didn't it didn't have the same effect show up so what we're going to do to counteract this one I've machined up a little slug the center and the end of it the ball on this is too big for my center my Center just disappears inside now I was thinking about using an extender the center and that's why I did cut an angle inside to take a center that what I'm going to do is I'll press the slug in there and we'll pick up on the center here when we go to do our finish grinding we'll do the same procedure with this one well probably may do the same procedure with the ER as well I'm not sure yet but well we'll wait and see so we'll get the slug pressed in and set us back up in the lathe and see how how it's looking hopefully we should be able to save it all okay putting the slug it in the end seems to improve things to something we can work with now so up at this end here we got our run out which is quite acceptable so if we come to the middle of the shaft getting up towards tooth they are there so come see how we're travelling here resume it so we've got three ther this area here come up to the end which it reduces that so we're we've got two mm a half yeah down half down the very end so that's well under the limits that we've allowed for grinding beer of mine to I do expect these to possibly move off a little bit possibly during the quench when we heat treat them and it's just goes to show that he does paint a rough rough out your entire job first and then go back and finish off your journals because this stuff does move most still you know moves once you start taking off the outer layers and especially if you go and then put a hole up the middle of it so I never finish any one journal before you got all of the others roughed out anyway we'll get this last tapered feature done and then back onto the opposite end features so now we're just running running them all through again the ones we haven't done we're just doing the finishing operations of the rear of the right feature so all this is done now all the tapers are done so we'll just leave a small radius down the bottom there just face it across and then we'll put a radius on the corner there [Music] get rid of the birds nest okay give that one more I think [Music] yeah that's good your Cavis what that's all over so we have a little corner rounding tool here and we're gonna unlock now Harwich otherwise we're going nowhere so we're just eyeball this tool into position so the front or so the corners of the tool don't contact the face or the OD we just sort of split the difference of it okay that looks good there make sure we're clear everything always give it a spin with a when you're using made dogs and you've got other bits protruding digging out for counterweights and such protruding out for counterweights to offset the way to the dog we'll just run that a bit slower [Music] [Music] [Music] okay just give that a touch more [Music] yeah I think that all it'll get it okay hmm ombre the next one okay only our face my larvas here what we've got to do now we just have to cut this relief in the front front face relief and also the grinding relief just in the corner here and then we'll have this tapped hole to do on both of them [Music] okay so we bring our tool into about there [Music] [Music] now we're just going to change the angle of the tool now so we can get the grinding relief in just bring him round to the better angle something like that [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] it looks pretty good so we're gonna just break these edges we'll use our new tool for that DC pin which is this one here so we get to use the edges we don't normally use on the CNM G insert this is a D DC bien I asked for right hand right hand tool so it turns the left hand direction which is all I bought like a forty five-degree here [Music] [Music] the model name [Music] my bears feels really good okay so as we just mentioned before it's just the hole to drill and tap in the end of the arbor for the mounting bolt to hold the cutter on so we can see now the reason why I chose to do all those operations between centers because there's so many small operations little individual operations to do that are quite similar or the same on them all especially to our right end was just quicker and easier to just keep popping them in and out the lathe between centers rather than mucking around with a lot of tool changes so we've gone as far as we can with our work between centers with them now so well what we're going to do now we've got holes to drill so we're going to drill out the guts of the ER collet holder drill and tap the holes in the ends of the to face mill holders this one here we have to screw cut the end of it that's finished that's finished and this one here is just that yeah the holes we haven't drilled yet on the end to mount to the boring head so doesn't matter which one we tackle first whether the AR or these two I'll probably what get these two out the way it's in it's a relatively simple job and then that leaves in the next video we screw cut the thread on the end here we have to bore out the features and the AR and we also have to screw cut the 50 millimetre thread on the OD of it so I think we'll wrap this one up and that guy's we're saying that the two barbers that I have to drum up tap D holes in the end I'll do that off camera because you've already seen holes drilled and tapped when we've done the other in there the tricky one well there's a left hand thread to do on the star barber that shouldn't be too bad a tricky one however is going to be the thread 250 millimeter external thread that we have to do on the AR 40 collar Hollow I'm pretty sure it's 50 I'll still have to confirm that now the reason why that's gonna be we're gonna think the way we're gonna tackle at least get heat treated so you have your tapered bore inside so when they quenched it's quite probable you're going to get a different expansion a different shrinkage right from that end to further day over here you may come in like a carrot shake because of the thickness difference the wall thickness changes now when I look at the way they've made this one it appears to me I don't know if the camera won't see it okay you've got a black line there at the end of the thread and it stops just there like line comes around and stops well that's the end of where the threads been recut after neat treatment so I'm assuming I'm guessing they've cut the threads are probably 90% of the steps eighty percent of the step heat treated it and then they've gone and with a diet would be on production run and recut the thread to its final dimension that way they don't have to cut so much hardened material if they pre cut the thread before heat treatment so I'm thinking about all probably go along the same lines so all single point the thread down to 80% of his death they're more single-pointed to final death after its main tempo now so we don't things don't go pear-shaped while we're doing that I'm going to actually get another piece of material I've got a spare piece which is the same material that we have a line made out of and I'll I'm gonna do a dummy run with a thread I'm gonna heat treat it and see how much it just to see how it reacts and also if I can still single point the other 20 percent of the thread after heat treatment so I don't want to start this up there's too many there's too much work has gone into this to risk by going it outside worst comes to worst if it turns out that I can't screw cut it under will offer us being heat treated what I'll do because all of the thread and the tapered section of the AR we're still well into the 5055 rock or rock weld area of this piece we're still nice and hard there well above the hardness of that of a Chinese one what I can may do is heat treat just the top or just the first two-thirds say we get up to about that area there so from there down we heat treat and hope that we don't soften that that's another option I can consider but we'll try the dummy piece first and see how we go with that so that will all be in the next episode so should be quite interesting anyway take care be careful on your machines and take it easy

Channel: Max Grant ,The Swan Valley Machine Shop.

Views: 4,476

Rating: 4.949367 out of 5

Keywords: tool post grinder, internal & external lapping, jig grinding attachment, lathe, machine shop, milling machine, tool & cutter grinding, machining videos, home machine shop, toolmaking, lathe maintenance, ID grinding, R8 tooling

Id: y3DaEWoCAcw

Length: 37min 52sec (2272 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 21 2020