[Music] hello and welcome back to the ten born I'm pragmatically and this this project is going to be another one that involves working with the funk break you might notice it's sitting in a different position now I'm rearranging here in the ten barn I actually moved my surface grinder to we'll be using that in this project and I'll show you the reason I'm set up but what we're going to do on the finger break today the fingers that came with this were a one-inch a 2 a 3 8 & a 10 1 2 3 8 10 8 10 I got ready to fold up a little pen the other day that just using a piece of material I had and it was going to come out with these with the sides this is not it but it was one summer of this by the time I did the fold-over to give a smooth edge at the top the lip up here the base of it was 7 inches so I decided well let me see what fingers I need to do 7 inches and there's no possible combination of 1 2 3 8 and 10 that will give 7 inches I'll put up a little sheet right here where you can see but everything from 1 inch to 24 inch is obtainable with the factory of fingers except for 7 inch and 17 inch now what I did to make that particular pen I just used my 1 2 & 3 which is 6 inches and left a little space about a half inch space between the two of them and that word okay but it was of course not as crisp I fold right left where that blank was so what we're going to do today is make up a 2 inch another 2 inch block to fit on this now the 2 inch finger and while I'm at it I'm gonna make an inch and a half finger with just the addition of the two-inch finger or the other two-inch I'll be able to get the 7 and the 17 as you can see in this image be able to get anything from 1 to 24 by adding the inch and a half block as well I'll be able to get 1/2 inch increments anything from 1 inch to 24 inches and 1/2 inch increments so I'm going to be doing two of these or one of them it being inch and a half wide the other one be 2 inches wide though going to involve a 45-degree full 45 degree angle on this side on this end that's got just a looks like a quarter inch maybe chamfer on that end of course I hold in the middle but we're gonna end the thickness is very crucial I think these are 436,000 so I got some stock material over on the bench but we're gonna we're gonna start out machining these two width which is going to be a combination first of coming over to the surface grinder and getting one one edge perfectly smooth get it flat then I'll carry it over to the meal for that good surface down and move all this down to within about 10 thousandths of the width come back to the surface grinder get it to width then we'll start working on the thickness so let me get set up over on the surface grinder and we'll get one edge on each one each of these two pieces alright here's the surface grinder in this new position now and I'm sure all of you are aware most of you aware but here in the 10 boring I've got a wood floor and where the surface grinder was sitting before I actually had a piece of three two pieces of three-inch channel line spanning across about three of the floor joist and that stated it up a whole lot but it was still you still not as steady as it would have been would be on a concrete floor so what I did I came over here this position is directly behind the late now though the white panels you see there behind the sorceress grinder is the backsplash for the lathe and the tool holder is up at the top but I did some rearranging and cleared and cleaned out this spot over here right beside of it I've got the shelves now with my air tool storage right that I showed in a previous video some of the various tools that go with the surface grinder but what I did before I moved it over here I cut the flooring out of course it was about eight to ten inches under there I filled up that about halfway with some chunks of concrete or I'm sorry chunks of asphalt that had been taken up that I've actually got a storage pile of it here or just to fill holes in and so forth but then I fill the rest of it up with concrete and got it set got a surface grinder on it I actually let that cure for about thirty days before I moved it not so much for the concrete to come to its full strength it just took that long before I got back around to that project but it's sitting over here now it's extremely steady now if you see the camera moving any deer in this sauce during these video segments it's not because the sorceress grinder is moving it's because me and the camera tripod both are standing on the wood floors so I'm gonna get set up to surface crime one of our edges and bring you right back the edges on the pieces that we're going to make our fingers out off are currently off from slitting sole from cutting this out of some stock on the on the milling machine but I've got the one that's going to be for the inch and a half in the vise now these are about 40,000 sover so again all I'm going to do right now is try to clean up one edge and then we'll go over to the our milling machine to to take some of the extra off all right let's spin it up and we'll run a little cooling on this yeah that didn't quite clean up so come down another thousandths all right that cleaned that one up fine a very good surface on that and they're saying easily distinguishable from the slit and saw surface this is the one that will be the 2 inch block 2 inch finger like to do this that initial touch off just using the spinning it up by hand and bend down another thousandths all right I'm not sure if you saw it you caught it or not but I saw the piece moves a little bit and you saw me tighten the jaw down tight but this little import vise don't always win the john stott does it always mean it's up against there like it should be what it was it was right in in between on the notches under the bottom in here it was the jaw was tight but it was not tight on the piece so I stopped the process now I put a little spacer in between so I'm comfortable now that it saw that it's held in the vise good I'm going to fire it back up I've touched off again and we're gonna pretty much start this process over I sure don't want it throwing the piece out it's wonder it didn't throw that smaller one out get touched off good again being a little abrasive on the step-over right now until we are cleaning all the way across it's already cleaned up all the way there is one more little spot there so we'll well crank back up all right I think we're clean now so we'll go over to the milling machine flip these over we've got a good reference surface now flip these over and get them within 10 or 15 thousands of the desired width that way we don't have to do some much grinding over here so I'll see you at the milling machine I'm over at the mill now and I took the two pieces in the side that we did over on surface grinder our starting edge I just used a sharpie on that marked a green for good so we'll turn that edge down now and it's it's just barely above our vise jaws so we'll clear be sure that's seated down [Music] all right I've measured these and the one and a half inch piece which we have in there right now is about 41,000 so Versailles I've got eleven sixteenths endmill in there in the mill now which should be able to do this in one one pass or not any step over so I'm going to touch off right here and zero out in the Dro we need to take the inch and a half is about 41,000 sover right now so I'm going to take about 30 30 mm of that for the on the meal and then we'll get the rest of it on the surface grinder so I'm gonna come down about 20 thousands of that to begin with get a cool it trying to over here all right let's make this first about 20,000 cut that end of that meal don't seem to be that short so I'm gonna back off just a little bit the cool that I'm using on this is called cool mist it actually has a green tent instead of a white tent that you see on a lot of other coolers this mix is four ounces to the gallon I don't have any trouble at all I've been using this probably about a year now and I don't have any trouble at all with rust on the on the tables or on the vise so it seems to be working really good alright I'm gonna go ahead and do this piece with that end meal and then but when I get to the other piece I think I'll switch out end meals because this and just just doesn't seem to be cutting very well I'm gonna make another like cut I'll bring you back when we get started on the second piece alright for the tooth well the two each block need to take about thirty thousand Sol's now it's thirty nine thousand its overall but we're gonna take about two passes of fifteen thousand all right that's kind of the edge is roughed out on both pieces but before we go back to the surface grinder we're gonna rough out the top and bottom so I'm gonna change out this or the the flats on each side this piece is way too thick so I'm gonna put the face mail in and be right back all right before I take the end mail out I just remembered I need to get a clean in on here and then get them to length both pieces I can do that while we're right here then we'll start with the face mail cleaning up cleaning up the thickness all I want to do on this end is just take enough off to clean to clean it up alright now I'll take just a couple thousand spline milling just won't take care of any birds that might stop it from seating down in device good and again I want to take just enough to clean it up and then we'll get a length oh yeah I've got a probably 3/8 or 1/4 inch to take off of that [Applause] alright I'll get a measurement I'm gonna set my x-axis D low to zero well let me get this over to the bench and get a good measurement alright one I'm looking is three point nine one five we have four point two oh seven looks like 190 mm let me double check 290 mm I've got right much cutting to do on these two pieces I'm gonna get set up so I don't necessarily throw the chips back on myself and I don't throw the coolant back on myself alright I'm gonna continue this process on this piece and then on the next piece and I'll bring you back when we start doing the face milling alright I've got both pieces are mill to length now and I've got the face mill in I won't start with the inch and a half piece now a work material the pieces we're using are 428,000 stick now I'm sorry to 560 mm thick a little over 1/2 inch we need them to be 428 so we need to take 134,000 salt now what I'm going to do is first off just take the mill scale off of one side of each piece then we'll flip the pieces over and just like we did on the width for the thickness we're gonna get it to within about maybe 10 or 15 thousands maybe 20,000 since we will have to do both sides on the surface grinder but we'll get it close then go back to the surface grinder so what I want to do now is touch all first get this under alright that's just touching so I will zero out the z-axis all right let's come down again all I want to do on this first side is remove the meal scale and get a flat surface so there's about 15,000 let's try that okay that didn't quite clean up so we're gonna come back to the other side I'm not going to try to cut any more jail the census because of the direct flinging the chills now doesn't leave in a nice finish though but it's one little spot down here this end that it didn't clean up we're gonna come down that was 10,000 we'll get ten more thousands all right that's God this first side cleaned up so what I'm going to do is flip it over get it down to within about 20 thousands of hours there's I'd desired thickness I'll do the same thing to this piece then we'll meet back over at the surface grinder and actually get our finished width and our finished thickness and then finally we'll come back and put the old angles on okay I think we're finished on the mill for right now we'll go back to it in a minute but I've got both pieces got the mill surface off for the two flats I've got one good edge surface ground remember best when we marked in red I'm sorry we marked in green now we want to get this to height this is gonna be an inch and a half piece and I'm gonna be sure this time but not only does a vise tighten but it tightens the workpiece as well seems where this vise is just that little space in between the notch is under here and the thickness of the piece of where it will tighten down the vise but not necessarily tighten the piece so what I want to do first I've got that good surface down I'm comfortable with it being down all the way but I am going to tap it with the with the hammer and as before we'll come down to it just barely touch off alright I'm gonna make a pass on there remember this piece is to be an inch and a half so I'm gonna make a pass on then we're gonna measure the heights of this of the vise set in at zero and shoot for inch and a half here on this piece and two inches on this one turn on my VFD get it spun up I shouldn't have to have any cooling on this first touch off your feed going you remember we left I can't remember how much it was on these but it was a at least maybe 20 thousands but I want to get a clean cut off all the way across and make it parallel with the the side we surface round earlier in the video stealing quite touching off all the way that's why we're doing it on the surface grinder instead of trusting the meal all right that is cleaned up all the way across now what I'm gonna do just take this height gauge right here actually slide it on the magnet and zero out right there hope you can see that - I zeroed out on the bottom of the vise no slide this back up here till that touches off and I'm at 1.5 Oh - mm - go to be an inch and a half I'm very tickled in that I thought I had left more than that on the meal by dog by the time I cleaned it up there so we're gonna take two more passes out of thousands per pass so here comes our first thousandth I must say the surface grinder is working so good on this concrete pad now you folks that don't have to deal with wood floors just can't imagine how much butter this is now I'm gonna take another thousands on my doll z-axis step over boys stepping over about 25,000 sets of time well now let's check it one more time with this rice gauge that's still showing zero and that is right on the money I really couldn't ask for anything more one one and a half thousand and a half inches alright so I'm going to take this one out put this one in do the same process on that then I'll bring you back after I take the spice off and mount these down to start working on working on our thickness all right I've got the edges of both pieces parallel to each other now surface ground I'm happy with them I've put a fresh dress on the wheel right here you might can see the edge over there nice and clean now what I'm going to do I put the best-looking side best feeling side of the face meal cut down on the mag Chuck I won't surface grind this until I got a clean surface all the way then I'll do the same thing with this piece then once I get those both pieces with a good flat surface I'll put them both on here at one time and sources grinding on both to thickness but right now we're just gonna concentrate on getting all one surface flat I touched off it along the center in there but I want to take it fairly slow here just in case there's a high spot I tried to clean all the birds off before I come up here on the surface grinder all right we're gonna step down the thousandths at the time I know there's not any real high spots now so I can take about a hundred thousand set the time until I get across all right there's one little spot on this end down here it's not quite got yet so again I'll go down to thousands and the wheel here is 200 thousands per revolution so I'm stepping over about a hundred thousands at the time that's still not going quite clean it up all right I'm gonna take one more thousands remember we got a Belleville cut on each end so if it doesn't quite get it we can we can use that side where the angle gets cut I will only do a half step this time or 25 thousands quarter step all right just in case the other side is worse than this side I will go down one more thousandths and do this same step over clean up that last little bit on the end all right that side has cleaned up on that one I'm gonna put this one down the same way get one clean side and then I'll bring you back when we get ready to put them both down and get them to thickness all right I've got a good nice surface grinder finish on one side of each going over to the workbench and shake now this the two inch one is just a little bit thicker so we'll touch off on it the first what I want to do is just clean the magnet off good stone it to be sure and create it any burrs on it or any high spots now that should be pretty close to what the wheel is I'm gonna back it up a couple of thousands first and just make sure we're clearing it should be clear everywhere now all right we'll try a thousandths just don't like any surprises when I'm doing this I want to find that high spot first all right we should start making some reasonable contact this time I'm just gonna keep doing this until I've got this top surface clean on both pieces all right I'll bring you back when we get a clean surface here I'll bring you back to where we're gonna actually start cutting or start all surface grinding to the desired thickness okay this pass should get us a clean flat surface across both pieces on the second side of course then we'll start measuring to see what we need to do to take it down to the finish squeeze you off the mag Chuck just a little bit to get us a good place for our indicator to just sit all right we can actually touch off only on the mag chuck itself to set our zero we're measuring for 36 for 36 and I'm over here at the workbench now and what we're looking for it's 428 so that looks like about 8,000 s to go I tell you what I sure didn't leave done too much over on the the middle when I was doing this it took a little bit more to clean up that face bill than I was expecting I think I probably need to check the trim on my on my meal so again let me double check eight more thousands and I have zero out up here on my doll I've zeroes that out alright we're gonna take a thousand set the time and the cooler is working very well on here so we'll keep using it and again we're taking a hundred thousand step over at the time all right I'm gonna do that about six or seven six more times now I'll bring you back for the last pass okay we're ready to make our last pass on this again it's a thousandth and we'll take quarter steps around all right I believe our pieces are done now on this this part of the process we're gonna carry this back to the meal and rough out the angle okay we've got the surface grind on both sides of both the pieces now we've got a milled the length and meals and surface grounder width before I cutting the little bevels on you remember I think I showed you this at the first of the video but on one end there's just a slight bevel cut on there for a relief and then on this end as a full 45 to clamp down on the work but before we start working on those I won't go ahead and drill these holes these are ten millimeter holes and I've got them laid out on our finger pieces all right we'll use the wiggler to start with to locate that locating the holes the way this Forex when I I've got the wiggler stabilized now and I just ease that into it and then kind of bottom bottom it out in the hole and if it stays stabilized then I'm in at the whole position which it did so I'll lock down there and I'm just gonna center drill this then probably lead with a quarter inch drill and then the 10 millimeter all right I'm gonna do that same process to the other one Karam over to the little drill press where I got a the countersinking there and Eberle then we'll meet over on the beach and get set up to cut our angles all right I'm over here at the workbench now got the two holes drilled in countersunk or or it got a little chamfer in there I've got my 5-inch signed plate of course it's got the quarter 20 mounting holes in it I'm going to use a couple parallels set these down for these to prop up against the reason I want to do that I want to get this in that I'm going to be milling want to get it above the edge of the sign plate so I don't accidentally bump into it then I'm gonna use some of these toe clamps you saw me making a previous video gonna use those to hold the pieces down double-check again the small bevel we're gonna do first and that goes on the end of hook that has the hole all right just being sure everything is seated against the the back rail back here the parallels now we're gonna set this up for a 45 degree angle and a 45 degree angle says the gauge block stack of three point five three five I've got this touched off now and we're gonna go down about a hundred and forty thousand saw total just to give that relief on this side I've got a seven sixteenths rough an end mil in there I'm gonna take about start with about fifty thousands and I'm just gonna use cutting all on this not all right I got the pieces turning around now we got our first chapter relief ground them or milled on one in got them turning around now we're gonna put the full forty five on this end as such I'll cut a little bit of this and then I'll bring you back when we get ready to make the final cut all right I'm gonna tell you this whole set up now over to the surface grinder get that set up and meet you back over there okay I'm over at the surface grinder now I've got the this whole setup that we had on the milling machine over here the sign plate I turned the clamp these top clamps down just a little bit and I've touched off and it's gonna to get the wheel completely off this side is going to mean touching the corners of these clamps just just barely touching them but that's that's fine these clamps are meant to hold the work and if they're disposable so be it but we'll get it spun up now okay looking at that edge over here on the surface grinder I could have probably took a little more off on the meal so I'm gonna have a few more passes on here than I anticipated but I'm gonna give these get it ground down to where we've got a again not a razor-sharp edge but a reasonably sharp edge on the backside I'll bring you back then all right I think we're ready to make our last couple passes on here this is gonna be a thousandth again with smaller stuff over all right now I'm going to go down one one two three thousandths and I'm only taking about 20,000 step-over at the time now I'm gonna pull it out here and take a look at it yeah I'm happy with that edge right there everything is kind of suction down here all right so here's what one of the fingers looks like we've got a 45 there again we don't have a razor-sharp edge there but we did come out to a peak so I'm gonna turn these around now or turn the camera around and get you set up on the break and I'll show you the conclude this video okay here's our two new fingers installed on the brake excuse me interestingly enough this one appears to be a lot different color but what it is when I ground these are the diagonal this diagonal I can barely see the grinds going this way and here that way any case they were cutting on the same piece of metal and ground at the same time and got them in there and I just want to to make a bend on the sacrificial piece what I'm looking for is to see if I can detect any crimps or anything like that in the in the folded piece where these fingers are and I don't be sure we're in frame here that looks fine all the way through now as I showed you before with the original fingers on here the original fingers that come with it I could get from one inch to 24 inch in one inch increments but could not get a 7 or 17 with these new fingers with the original fingers plus the 2 inch and one and a half that we just made I can give one inch to 24 inch again but now I can get in half inch increments and can make every step but again between 1 inch or 24 inch and half inch increments not sure any of you will ever have a need to duplicate this project but I hope you enjoyed watching some surface kind of work and some millwork and y'all take care and we'll see you on the next video [Music] you
