24" Erie Box Pan Brake Setback Adjustment

[Music] well hello and welcome back to the ten born I'm pragmatically and today's video it's going to be doing something a little bit different than I usually do on my channel I don't normally try to parade new acquisitions around or talk about them a whole lot I did do a couple videos when I got subscriber that's back here but today I want to talk just a little bit about two new additions to the ten born the first one is this 8 inch sheet metal shear I recently got this bill to stand for it and also this 24 inch box pan break or finger break as I think the the common term form is I'm not doing a full review on either one of these tools at this time I will be showing using these in upcoming videos but what I wanted to do today is make just a little enhancement to the break if you look at these I bought both of these from Amazon they're sold under the Erie on name brand I'm sure they're generic imports but they're sold on Amazon and I'll try to remember to put links to both of both of these tools in the description of this video so that you if you want to see the complete specifications you can but in reading on these products the reviews on Amazon and similar product on eBay the biggest complaint was that it didn't have any way to adjust the setback the setback the thick of the material that you're bending the further you want to set the finger back you want to set them back so you got room for the being the reason they had that this does not have a way to adjust that that is entirely incorrect so I want to bring the camera around and I'm going to show you how how it's adjusted on here and then we're gonna talk about what we're gonna do in this video today all right I've got the camera zoomed in pretty close now on the fingers on this box and pan break to show you exactly what I'm talking about when I'm talking about set back this distance right here where the arm folds up to make the bend the disciplines between that fold and where the fingers locked down on the material it's what's called the set back as I pointed out in the introduction several folks cleaned on the reviews on eBay and Amazon that these breaks did not have a means to adjust that set back we were just looking at but they do on the top of this arm back here on the back of it is a six millimeter grub screw or set screw using a hex wrench and just simply loosen that up and then there's an eccentric or cammed disc up here this disc has six millimeter holes around in it it looks like maybe three holes across the top of it I don't happen to have a six millimeter rod the number one Phillips screwdriver will work just fine now watch this adjustment here can you see that set back there's probably 12 millimeters to a half inch of setback adjustability they're much more than you will ever need from what I can read the amount of setback you want on this is basically equal to twice the thickness of the material you're bending now the project I want to work on today is something to eliminate the need of this that makes it inconvenient most brakes have a just an adjustment knob on here that you can turn and lock down what I want to do in place of that set that set screw or grub screw this back here is make something very similar to this but on a smaller scale so that you won't need the hex wrench to back it off what you need to be right here on the machine itself on the tool itself just back that off and then we're gonna make a a type of spanner wrench but it's gonna be a cup or a disc that will fit over this with a pin that'll go in one of these six millimeter holes and then just a small handle on it so I'm going to get set up on the mill first to do these scalloped handles I've got a piece of inch 1/8 round stock aluminum round stock loaded in the mill vise now and got the center located already I'm going to swing the camera up to the Dro and we're gonna set up a bolt hole pattern to to put the scallops around the outside edge of this okay I'm up at the Dro now and I won't hit the bolt hole pattern we're going to be using the XY axis we're starting on center the diameter of it is going to be the same thing as the diameter of our work piece which is 1.125 enter down to the next one we're gonna do six holes starting angle is going to be zero ending angle is gonna be 300 and this is by adjusting the table back so that these reason zeros will be hole one then I've got a whole two three four five and six so we'll go back to hole one I'll get the camera repositioned over on the workpiece and we'll start making our scallops all right now we've got a bolt hole pattern laid out I've touched off on the center here or on the top on the z-axis set the z-axis DRO now we'll move to the position of our first hole I'm going to need two pieces about 3/8 in thickness but I'm gonna go down a little beyond that 3/4 probably to an inch of a little bit more just so I got a room for the salt cuts keep a little wd-40 on there to keep the end meal from clogging up now we advance to our second hole position all right turn hole I'll continue around alright there's our six homes or our six scallops in there excuse me for bumping the camera alright I'm gonna take this over to the wire wheel on the buffer and just not these birds off a little bit and then we'll meet over on the lathe and we're going to drill and tap this four six millimeter and then part these off for two of them okay I got our work piece cleaned up on the on the buffer and now we're gonna put it in the lathe chuck we're gonna drill the tap about a inch worth of this with a six millimeter all right now we'll put the tap in of course this was a 5 millimeter tap drill and of course we're gonna slow way down all right the squeeze I'm going to be using for these about one inch long and they're the countersunk Philips head screws so I'm gonna put the put a counter sink in that should be good for their for the first one now we'll take our parting tool alright I've laid my blade my scale down somewhere let me find that I'll be right back alright now the reason I threaded this inside in here was that when we put this in I won't put a little lock tight on the screw itself that should hold that in and shouldn't have to pin it nor press in so let's get set up there's our zero will come in won't come on about 400 thousands and I'm using cutting all on that but that's just the ease to pass with that chip to get the chip out so here's our first piece this is a little warm right on we'll go clean this burr up right here and then I will long-run screw in and show you what this what the finished product here looks like all right here's what a finished one looks like I've put some threadlock in there of course I'll give that plenty of time to set but I'm going to counterbore the the next one here part it off do the same thing with that and then we'll get ready to get or we'll get set up to do the handle for the concentric Kym to actually make the setback adjustment all right here's the cam piece that's on each side that the grub screw tightens up against this but as you can see the hole is offset on that that the pin goes through so as you turn this that rotates or slides the Jol's in and out for the setback so I've got a piece of material here just picked up out of my scrap being something that's even got a hold start it in the end of it one blows that up be sure it's good and tight in the truck I got a back plate in there which just makes it easier to hold and I won't bore out this Center to where this will fit in and cut two rings of that off and then we'll look at the pins out of go through this so this being the scrap piece I'm just gonna go ahead and bore all the way through drill all the way through all right now we're gonna put the boring bar in get this short bit out of my way first we're gonna put the boring bar in and bar it to where the larger part will go through this piece of this scrap that large-bore on it is almost a size all right so I'm going to start boarding that's not there won't be a whole lot you can see here you see if I can move the camera around a little bit so you can get a little bit butter shot of what's going on okay I think I've got you in a little better position now again what we want to do is bore this piece out for a little of range deep where this will go into it all right sorry about last night the camera down with when I backed the cross slide up we're gonna take about another 25,000 sear and then we're gonna get a measurement see how I think we're we're gonna be pretty close with this cut right here okay excuse me for knocking down the camera again but maybe I'm setup now this needs just a maybe another five thousands on that [Music] okay that's just right now all right let me take a piece of all Emery cloth and see if I can clean that up just a little bit before we pour them off all right this distance here is about four hundred and four hundred ten thousandths so let's get our parting blade again all right so we'll set our z-axis to zero right there come in four hundred thousandths 110 all right I think before I park that all the way off I'm gonna go double-check right quick and be sure I've got enough clearance for this all the way around I'll be right back okay I think there would be enough room to to clear that but it's going to be a little bit closer I'm gonna take about a hundred 150 thousand all for this outer diameter it really doesn't need to be that much it just needs to be enough thickness left here that I can three we'll set that is our zero 20 40 60 there's 80,000 this would be a total of 140,000 which I think I think they should be fine it's just a little whale joy now mayor that I want to be sure I got clearance for all right I think we can go back to the part and process and now all right let me see if I can get the other piece cut without having the slide I'll work out it's gonna be close no I'll help slide it out a little bit all right I've got the painting out from Chuck a little ways got it running true now we'll see roll out those knee axes there come in our four hundred ten thousands of clearance everywhere so I'm gonna part this one off and then we'll go over to the meal and we're gonna drill and tap a hole all the way through this for the pin that will go into one of these holes all right before I go over to the meal to drilling tap these I think I'm going to finish up what we've got to do on the lathe I'm gonna cheat as far as in regards to the pin that's going to go here and use this quarter-twenty bolts well what will happen this ring will fit over this camp the boat will be threaded through the aluminum we just cut and then the end of this will be turned down such that it will fit in this six millimeter hole here so we're gonna start it out and I think what I'm gonna do first just go ahead and take the head off of these gonna look and see if yeah but I'm gonna leave just a little head on there I'm gonna round it off and clean them up a little bit we've done just a small forming tool here I'll hook that the little radius on this outside alright so you as you can see what I've done is just put a little radius on letting you do the same thing to this one all right now let's get just a little bit of the thread sticking out zero there and then we're gonna come in about a quarter of an inch all right now I'm just gonna round that in a VAT just a little bit to just to help guide it in it's all alright I'm gonna do the same thing to the other boat then we'll be over to the lathe I'm sorry we'll be over on the meal and we'll start drilling and tapping these pieces alright well here the meal now I've got my got a work stop mounted on the vise here so I can repeat this setup for the second one my probe is not really long enough to know that I'm down on the widest part here but in a situation like that it's not necessary that you go to the widest part as long as you all as long as you go to the same depth on both sides the way I'm going to do that I'm just gonna set my bring my Z down and lock that into position now I'll touch off on this side I slow down alright it kicked out I'll zero zero out the X double check same place all right so now leaving the Z the same I'll come over here to the other side as long as I'm touching off at the same point on this side as I did they're perfectly fine double-check that and be sure it repeats and it did so X 1/2 that's my center on the x-axis now he can come up a little bit now we'll touch off here they roll out the Y again double check that repeated and that repeated so why 1/2 all right so there we've got the center on both axes so we'll get our spotting drill now we'll get our tap drill for the quarter 20 if you wonder why I'm mixing Imperial and SAE it's because I don't have any 6 millimeter bolts and we should be able to power tap this aluminum and we should be able to just simply put our other piece in bump it up to that work stop which is sitting on the parallel and repeat the process all right I think we're ready to start some assembly so I'll get these deep birds and meet you over at the break okay here so here's our original setup - the cotter pin that was locking it all in place gonna take the six millimeter grub screw out now I'm gonna take one of these that would Nate put it right over one of the holes and I felt it go in the hole here's what it been nice if I'd left a head on these boats but this will look a lot better now for our lock get them lined up same on both ends lock it down and there you have it I'm gonna do the same thing to the other side then we'll come back and do a quick little recap do have one more thing to do on this end let's put this cotter pin in doesn't take much adjust at all all right so I'm gonna do the other end now okay I think we're ready to wrap this video up I've got our work installing on both ends it's working fine on the set back as I was putting that in I happen to notice something else up here to be the subject of another video the locking handle will this break only has one on the right hand side I'm left-handed and would like to be like to have one over here and this one would go over there but most of the breaks larger than two foot well actually any break I've ever seen larger than two foot has a handle on both ends and looking at this it will not be very difficult at all to replicate this on the other end so watch out for that stay tuned to the channel we'll do that on the later project for now I want to wish everybody a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year I'm recording this just a few days before Christmas so all of you take care and I'll see you on the next video [Music] you [Music]

Channel: MrPragmaticLee

Views: 10,090

Rating: 4.9622641 out of 5

Keywords: Finger brake, box brake, pan brake, setback adjustment, PM-727, PM-1127, machining, machine shop

Id: nrhr7KIqOuo

Length: 27min 13sec (1633 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 21 2018