Machining an Extended Reach Shell Mill Holder for the Steam Stoker Engine

[Music] hello keith rucker here finished machinery.org guys today got a little project we're going to be working on making a an adapter to be able to use some tooling basically a custom arbor for a job that i've got coming up that uh i'm really kind of behind the eight ball on or really behind time on i guess and just need to get moving forward on and that is related to the steam stoker engine engine project and i know a lot of you guys have been asking hey whatever happened to the steam stoker engine and the truth of the matter is is that yes the project has kind of stalled i had sent out a couple of parts to have some other people work on some things and for various reasons it has gone very slowly and and really what i've been waiting on is the main case i've been needing to machine some surfaces in there where the cross head goes and i sent it down to my friend adam booth abom 79 down in florida for him to do on his metal shaper and we really thought that was going to be the right way to go with this project but unfortunately it just is not going to be possible for adam to set that up he tried he gave it his best shot and i agree with him that we need to go a different route so we've kind of come up with a plan b which is going to be to mill those areas in there but to do that job i need a custom built arbor to hold a milling cutter to get down in there and do it i've got a game plan and uh but before i can go get that done we've got to get this arbor made so that's going to be the project today and a little spoiler alert the game plan is is that i'm going to go down to florida to my friend john terry shop he has a really large cincinnati horizontal uh milling machine that has a vertical head on it that's very heavy duty this we can easily mount that whole stoker uh engine up on this machine it's big enough to hold it and it's going to be like a vertical milling machine basically is what we're going to be doing and going in there and and milling it out and based on the machine marks that were in the original it looks like that this is how it was originally done was on a big milling machine i just didn't have a machine big enough in my shop to do this job and like i said we were going to try to do it on the shaper uh which i think was a really good plan but there just wasn't enough clearance in there to for everything to move around like it needed to so anyway let me zoom you in here show you what we got to build and let's get it done so this is the milling cutter that i'm going to use this is a index face mill it's a two inch in diameter across it has a carbide insert cutters that go on here i've still got to get a few more to finish this up i don't have them all in there right now but you can kind of see how the cutters go in there and it's it's considered a face mill uh because of the way that it's mounted you've got a basically an arbor that goes down into a socket there's a keyed piece that goes across the top and then that drives it now normally a face mill holder looks something like this this is a this is one that actually fits this cutter for a 40 taper machine i just happen to have this one laying around the shop and you can see you got the shoulder here that fits down inside that socket and then you've got a couple of keys to drive it so this all kind of flops down together like such and you use a socket cap screw in the bottom to tighten that up and just pull it up tight against there and you've got a nice little arbor now the problem we've got is we've got to reach down into a hole basically to do this i need about a 10 inch shaft coming up off of this they make a straight shank shaft that fits on these but there the shaft is not long enough for the application that i need it for so that's the reason i'm having to custom build something here at least i haven't been able to find one all right we are over on the lathe and we're going to start by facing this side off here just got it in three draw chuck right now again i just want to clean this face up now what i'm going to do is flip it around to the other side and we're going to clean that side up too and at the same time here i'm going to turn this down and make it a little bit thinner this is just a piece of scrap metal that i pulled out of the scrap bin i don't even know what kind of steel it is and it really doesn't matter for the application the outside is a little bit rough i'm not i'm just trying to get it where it's going to turn more or less parallel keep in mind that we will actually square this thing up once we get it on the shaft so we will clean up this bottom face again and make sure it's running square to the shaft so even if there's a little run out here no big deal we'll be taking care of that later on and we'll face that all right now next thing i need to do is i know this needs to be thinner than what it is i need to go do some measurements real quick and figure out how thick this piece needs to be i'm guessing probably about three quarters of an inch but i'll need to verify that and then we will turn this down to get it to the proper thickness be right back i adjusted this in the jaws of the chuck uh where sticks out and yes three quarters of an inch thick is what i'm shooting for i put just some magic marker marks on there uh and when i get down closer we'll start measuring it with the calipers but we got a lot of material to take off of this so um i'm just gonna work it down um we'll bring you back when we get down a little bit closer to the bottom we'll just take this off one little bite at a time and uh until we get it down fit to the right thickness let's see where we're at we're shooting for 750 and we're about 769 we got 19 000's to come off i'm gonna put this in my dro point seven six nine enter and i should be able to just dial it into 750 we'll do it in a couple of passes that's about 10 thou right there and i'm just going to go for 750 lock our carriage i'm gonna pull it back out nice and slow it's probably gonna make a little bit of a spring cut coming out there we go and 750 right there maybe just a tad under but that's not a critical measurement all right guys uh next will be to drill and bore a hole through there that we will press up on that shaft let me get set up for that all right let's start this uh drilling process i'm going to start with this up a little bit more i'll start with just a uh center drill here and i'm just going to get a little dimpled in the middle it just gives me a nice center to drill on i'll start with a 3 8 inch hole through here next we'll go with a three-quarter inch hole slow down my speed a little bit we were doing a little bit fast on that three quarter inch we're going up to one inch now got a boring bar here we'll just uh go ahead and start boring it out here [Applause] all right we're going to get a internal bore micrometer here and it looks like we're at let's see 75 82 so we're at one inch 82 thousandths i'm gonna put that in my digital readout 1.082 we're going to 125. i'm going to dial in 1.1 all right we're at 120 which is right what i'm reading on my digital readout i need five more thou we're at 123 i'm going slow here that's exactly what i'm reading on my digital readout so i'm just going to put in the 125 and we'll we should be right close to it [Laughter] [Applause] all right let's see where we're at here so we should be right on 125 which yeah maybe just to i don't know that's right on the money right there we're pretty darn close anyway so so up next here what my plan is is to mill the slot in here that will have the key that will drive that uh face mill it's a 3 8 inch uh keyway that we need to just cut through here straight across right in the middle of this piece so what i've got in here now is a edge finder we're going to go in here and find the we'll find this edge we'll zero the dro we'll come over find this edge and then divide that in half and that should put us right in the center of that circle so let's go ahead and do that come over when that bottom piece kind of jumps to the side there will be right adjacent right on the edge that's ground exactly one half inch in diameter so i'm gonna zero my digital readout [Applause] i'm gonna go back and just double check it [Applause] and that's good now we're going to come to the other side do the same thing here there's our edge now we can go to the digital readout and center it up so measurement there was 1.695 we're just going to select this axis here and uh oops i tell you what i mean actually we hit the half function and then select the axis that divides that number in half 0.8476 and when i just dial that to zero we are right in the center i can lock my table down and we'll be ready to go so i gotta get a good end mill here i've got the set of carbide end mills that are made by rushmore these are american-made end mills i bought this set a while back and we're going to get the 3 8 inch one this is a nice fresh end mill solid carbide good usa made tool we're going to use this to cut this with all right we should be centered up so i'm go ahead and start my mill up what i'm going to do is just raise the table up until that just barely touches that metal raising it up very very very slowly right there and i'm going to call that zero i actually want this to be a little bit under uh 3 8 inch square so half of 3 8 is going to be 3 16 that's one eight seven five i'm gonna go about a i'll just go 190 000 steep that'll be a couple of thousands deeper um because i'm going to reface this side once i put it over on that arbor and i want those uh keys to be not quite touch and bottom have a little bit of clearance on the bottom so we'll go 190 thousands deep um zero my z-axis on the digital readout and i'm going to start by just doing 100 foul and we'll just cut across that [Applause] getting a little vibration i'm going to take that back to 50 foul [Applause] [Applause] all right now i'll take it to a hundred thou deep it should be 50 more [Applause] and it did seem to cut a lot better in that direction so i think i'm just gonna make all my cuts in one direction i'm gonna go to 150 thousandths deep so another 50 thousand [Applause] and my final depth i want to be 190 000 so we'll just do another 40 thousandths deep [Applause] all right we got our keyway cut there cut a couple of keys that we're going to put inside that block to drive that and uh because these are so short and i don't want to sling out we're going to put a little socket cap screw and actually screw them in place so what i need to do is drill these and countersink them i will turn the outside diameter of these to actually match the outside diameter of the part that we're going to turn so i just cut these off on the bandsaw and we should have plenty of meat in there to do what we want to do so i got a drill bit in here this should be the size for that uh screw to go down through and we just centered it up on the key drill a hole all the way through there then we'll counter sink it for the uh the cap head screw [Applause] there we go take this drill bit out put our countersink in the counter sink nose has a pilot and then it will drill out a square shaped hole for that cap to drop down through [Applause] should be plenty deep enough drop that down in there and test it yep so i'll do the same thing for the other one over here so now i need to drill and tap the holes uh for these to go down into and we're going 832 so i've got the original drill bit that we used in here and i'm just kind of getting it lined up where it's kind of in the center of that piece that we're going i'm going to take that out now and swap my drill bits this is the i think it's a number 21 if i remember right it's the size for an 8 32 thread all right there we go we'll come in here and drill a hole to tap in 832 [Applause] all right i'm not going to go all the way through now i'm going to put my larger drill bit back in here and we'll go to the other side and line that one up i did not i mean this thing may not be lined up perfectly square i just eyeballed it in there but that actually feels pretty good i think that's going to be fine [Applause] and i'm just going to hand tap these over on in my vise so there we go i've got my little keys drilled and tapped and put in place and this is gonna index very nicely with the cutter head that's what will drive it once we get it on there and uh these don't worry about the links being a little bit different because as you can see whenever we turn this uh piece here down to the diameter to match this it's going to clean those up on the outside i knew that when i did it so i wasn't too worried about it but that's coming along so next we need to start working on our shaft here and i get that where we can press that up on there pin it in place we'll take these uh out we'll turn this in down to the right size we'll face this off square and uh pin that in place and then we can put our dogs back in and we should be should be in good shape well guys i got this pressed on here and forgot to turn the camera on so let me catch up to where we're at i took this when i when i boarded this out we basically it was just a little bit it was like a thou or two smaller diameter than the uh the shaft and i just went over to my arbor press and i just it pressed right up on there i didn't even have to heat it up but it was a good tight fit in there so i i'm good there but i do want to make sure that it is pinned in place that we're not just have a friction drive on there or basically you'll be driving by these these dogs out here on the end so we don't want this disc spinning so what we'll do is we're just going to use a tapered pin to pin this in place we'll drill a hole down through it and then using a tapered reamer we'll ream it out we'll drive this pin in this being a tapered pin it will lock in place and uh it'll pretty much be mounted and this collar will be driven by this pin and of course the dogs will drive the uh the cutter itself i've got my shaft in here well it's sticking out three quarters of an inch on the bottom which will be plenty uh to go down into that cutter um and i've got it mounted in my vise i just took a couple of v blocks here and i'm just pressing up against the back jaw the v blocks will will hold that shaft in place and get it aligned where it's straight across so i think we're ready to go ahead and drill this on out uh i measured the bottom of my pin and was it 210 thousandths roughly this is a number three drill bit which is like 213 000 so just a little bit larger and that should give me room for this reamer uh to go down in there to ream it out to the proper size so let's uh let's drill it on out there we go we are through all right [Applause] the streamer should follow that hole down through there and it should ream it out to the proper taper for that tapered pin to drop down in there just like before i'll kind of clear that out a little bit should go down about all the way down in there [Applause] i think we're all the way through what i'm gonna do now is just uh kind of drop this pin down in there and yeah i think that's going to be fine i'll take a pin and kind of uh punch and just kind of drive that home and that pin will be locked in place take a punch here just hammer that into place and the pin is going to stick out a little bit there but we're going to turn this uh outside and no big deal that is locked in place that will not turn down unless we shear that pin and if we share that pin we got an awful lot of force on it let's take it to the lathe now and we're going to go ahead and start working on turning that got it over in the lathe and we are going to i'm going to start by just barely trimming this down i just want to get that anything rough out of there we're going to put a center in the end and i want to actually finish turning this everything in turning it between centers that way everything will be running should be running nice and concentric on both sides which will be very important we want it to be running perfectly true in the spindle uh so anyway we're going to start by just turning that outside diameter start by kind of cutting that pin out a little bit flush there got an interruptive cut going here right now all right that's at least just cleaned up and uh we'll be turning it down to the right size here in just a bit that's gonna be fine for right now let me get a center drill in there and we'll go ahead and get that center drilled tell you what before i do that i do want to face the end of the shaft and we'll come in here with a center drill put a center in the end that should do it i want to go ahead and get a center drill in the back end of this shaft and i realized kind of after i got into this i really should have done this before i pressed that piece on the end because right it had been a lot easier if i could have just put it right up flush to the chuck and done it but because of the way that that uh flange is on the bottom now it won't go up into the the through hole in the headstock so i was able to get it behind the chuck but it's sticking out i put my uh my center steady rest on here to just kind of support it we're gonna face this one off and put a center drill in this side as well and then we're gonna do all our turning between centers so that both sides are concentric to one another and we don't have to worry about run out in our chucks and things like that causing this tool to not turn properly and come in with a center drill here and do the same thing like we did on the other side there we go so to finish turning this i've got a center up here in my chuck i did true that up to make sure it's running perfectly true i've got a center on this end here is my shaft that we're making i've got a drive dog on one end we'll put that in there we'll put it between centers here and what's going to happen is when the chuck turns it will engage right here that will spin the part between centers and the reason i'm doing this is i want i'm going to have to turn both sides of this piece and i want the i want it to be concentric i want it to be exactly uh turning in the same uh axis on both sides so by turning it between centers i can flip this part over and when i do everything is going to remain true in there this is a much better way of doing it than trying to put it in a chuck or a collet because in almost every case a chuck or collar is going to have some run out in it this uh machine is set with my my tail stock is perfectly on center like i said i trued this one up using where it was turned all in this chucks when you run that in it was taken out as long as i don't take that piece out of the chuck that's going to be running true so that's the game plan and you know actually as i'm sitting here looking at this i think i'm going to flip it around i'm going to put this thing in first i want to turn this end down to one inch so it'll fit up into a tool holder and i will go and machine some flats on there for a set screw to go in to and then i'm going to put the dog back on here and that way i'm not damaging the surface if i do it the other way around i turn this in first when i put this drive dog on here that that nut that tightens up on there could deform this a little bit i want it to be running perfect so i'm going to flip it around we're going to turn this in first and then we'll flip it around and do this side all right i have my part turned around i got a drive dog on this side now i'm going to turn this down to one inch inch and eighth right now that way it'll fit up into a one inch [Music] collet or whatever on the middle machine we're going to use to to turn this with and that's running pretty true but uh we're going to make it where it runs through concentric on both sides so we'll just go ahead and start out i'm just going to turn down somewhere about that back in there sounds like i'm getting some chatter in this part i think what i'm going to do is put my steady rest back in here sometimes on a long shaft you get a little vibration in it if i put my steady rest in here that should dampen it out so let me get that set back up all right so i got my steady rest mounted back in here again that should give me a little bit more support and hopefully we'll take dampen that vibration that we had and i've got about a hundred thousand still to come out for this all right this should be our last pass here taking it down to one inch diameter once we get to this one i'll check it out with the micrometer this should be yet all right let's see where we're at there we go looks good go ahead and break that corner there there you go i'm just going to lightly hit this with some emery cloth smooth that out a little bit don't want to do too much we're on size it used to be just a tad undersized but that looks a lot better all right i'm happy with that we'll take this out and what i'm going to do is go to the middle machine and just mill a flat on this side and that way i'll have a place for a set screw to go up against where it won't spin in that shaft i've got my part flipped around now and we're ready to go ahead and turn this side i'm going to start with this outside diameter to get that finished up i measured the the diameter of the part here and it is one inch 885 thousandths roughly and we're just gonna match that so right now we're starting this about two and a quarter roughly and our two and eight rather so we're gonna start by getting that turned down [Music] i want you to notice how we got a little bit of run out down here but it's fine because we're going to turn it all out and when we turn it out it's going to be running concentric with the other side running right along the center of that part between the two centers that we put in there which is the reason that we're going the way we are when i turned this originally or a while ago i just had it in three jaw chuck three jaw chucks rarely run perfectly true turning between centers we should be perfectly true all right i've put a new insert in here hopefully this will work a little bit better and also while i was thinking about it i think i'm going to turn this uh shoulder and this diameter first that way i can put those keys in here and go ahead and turn those so that they'll match this outside diameter as we uh as we do that so this needs to be one inch in diameter and basically we just need to just skim this face to make sure it's running true with the shaft like it's in there right now this should be final pass right here [Applause] and i'm going to go ahead and bring it in and i'm just going to face out while i'm in here all right all right so now i think we're finally ready to turn this outside diameter notice i got the keys in there and uh that one's sticking up a little bit proud the other side's got a little bit take off of it but uh we'll go ahead and see if we can finish this up yeah that's an interrupting cut there we'll uh kind of ease into it a little bit i'm just going to do about 20 thousandths at a time just uh and then because of that interrupted cut that we're starting out with but that is cutting a lot better this should be the last pass right here we're just buzzing some off and we should be right on the money i think we are done well i said i was done but i got one more step i need to drill and tap a half inch 13 hole in the bottom of this shaft and that will be for a set screw to go up or a socket cap screw to go up into that will hold the cutter on so uh got a 2764 drill bit yeah it's running out a little bit but it's not going to matter that i got some plenty of wiggle room for this shaft if it's not perfectly in the center not going to be a big deal this was a through hole i'd probably power tap it but since it's going into a blind hole i don't want to risk breaking the tap after doing all this work so i'm just going to do it by hand i've just got a tap follower in here to help keep me straight half inch 13 tap on here and we'll just run that down in there yeah we bottomed out all right we will pull that out of the way reverse this tap out and now i think we're through with the machining all right let's uh see how she fits so here's our shell mill fits right up on there fits right up on there great and we'll take our screw put in the bottom tighten that up and voila one extended reach shell mill holder that will hopefully allow me to get down in there and do that milling you know guys i am a little bit concerned i'll just be honest you know this is a fairly long this is inch and 8 diameter inch up here long reach to get down in the bottom of that um that stoker body but when i look at the machine marks that were in there it was done with a cutter something like this i'm sure it wasn't an inserted cutter like this but it's same type deal where there was a round circular cutting cutter in there you can tell by the machine marks it was about this diameter so i'm basically doing it the same way they did at the factory and there's only one way to get down in there and that's with a shank on there a long shank just like we got right here there's no other way they could possibly do it so that was the way it was originally done i'm hoping i don't run into any problems uh with this setup i think i'll be fine we'll take our time make light cuts down there try not to hog too much out and i think we'll get by with the job so anyway one extended reach shell mill holder we are ready to uh go get that machine set up um for the soaker engine and do some machining on it it'll probably be a few weeks before i can get down and do it but uh we got the tool now that we need hope you enjoyed that well there you go guys if uh you can't buy what you need you make what you need and that's exactly what we did here and hopefully this tool will get the job done and do it well i i feel pretty confident we'll get it done with this so there you go hope you enjoyed that build a fun little project something a little bit different and always something enjoyable so with that guys that will be a wrap on this video as always thanks for watching please subscribe the channel if you haven't already thumbs up are appreciated as are those comments and please hit that bell icon so you get notifications when new videos are posted and with that guys we will catch you on the next video and again thanks for watching [Music] you

Channel: Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org

Views: 50,005

Rating: 4.9622822 out of 5

Keywords: vintage machinery, machine shop, keith rucker, steam engine, metal lathe, vertical mill, shell mill, vintagemachinery.org, stoker engine

Id: 7cWQCnBkkgc

Length: 39min 42sec (2382 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 30 2021