Machining a new Needle Valve for a Detroit Steam Lubricator

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[Music] hello Keith right here Fushimi org guys I've got a little project probably shouldn't take two cherries on the night this a but a little machining video that I think you guys will enjoy and I'm working on this little item right here and if you guys are know anything about steam engines I've been around steam engines you probably know what this is if not what this is is actually an or this use on a steam engine and basically what this does a steam engine unlike modern motor or engine that we have today you know you have an oil pan and there that slings all up on all the bearings and keeps things lubricated long steam engine the way they actually lubricate the cylinders for the piston to go in is they actually atomized all put it into the steam and this oil is actually in the steam as it's going through there and that's what lubricates it this item here is an oiler and it is basically what it does is it atomized this at all it injects it into the steam so you will actually have a line coming in up here in the top this is little dome here that builds up a little bit of pressure on here and it will I don't know exactly how the insides of this thing works but basically you got a reservoir of oil and over in one of these tubes you'll actually see a drip of all kind of go up boom-boom-boom just real slowly you extend a column of water here and it will just drip up and then that basically will go out into a line it goes back into the steam line and that atomized old and goes into the steam itself and oils everything so this is an old one that I picked up somewhere and a friend of mine is restoring an engine and needs a Oller and I told him said well I got someone for you so he's gonna get this from me but it's got a broken part on it we got to fix it like just about everything I own I got to do something to fix it so let me show you what's going on with it what we got to make and we'll go from there so this alder was actually made by the Detroit lubrication company in Detroit Michigan and when I got it right here there's a valve in here and I've taken this out but you see that in here it's got a little seat that a needle valve goes into and there's a stem but this is it right here that screws up through this piece it's got room for some packing in there so that you can keep steam in and you just basically open and close this to move that needle valve in now when I got it the needle valve was broken the handle was broken off there happens to be another needle valve on the same part this is a little bit different but I'm gonna assume that this one was made the same way so you basically just have up here at the top was a little t-handle and someone tightened it up too much and snapped it off so I've got some brass stock here that we're going to turn that out of make that and then also got another little piece of brass stock that we use to make a t-handle to go in here and basically make a new part to go in here so here's the existing one that was in good shape and I came in here and measured the thread diameter and you know it's obviously 3/8 I mean it's right on point 375 and coming here with a thread pitch gauge and my 16 pitch fits it perfectly so 3/8 16 that's a standard sized thread I was assuming that this other one would be the same I come in here measure this one hmm point three five five that doesn't add up to anything that's standard at least on the fractional measurements it comes really really close to what was it nine millimeter so 0.35 four three is nine millimeter so I know this isn't metric though and then I come in here I check my so well maybe it's just worn take my pitch gauge put that sixteen on there sixteen doesn't fit so I go up one two eighteen pitch eighteen threads per inch and boom it's a perfect match so that one's gotten a little confused I don't know what this measurement comes from 0.355 that's not anything standard but that's the nice thing about having a lathe so I can make it whatever dang size I want to and so we're just going to make it 0.355 and we'll single point thread on there eighteen threads per inch no need for a special dye we can just do it right there on the lathe so let's go get the lathe set up and we'll start cutting this piece so we're set up over here on the lathe now I've got my collet Chuck on here and that's what we're gonna be working off of I got a piece of half-inch thick brass stock that we're gonna machine this little piece out of down here and most start off just coming in here we're gonna face the front of this I'm gonna cut all this off later but I still want to have a good flat surface to reference off for my link which is my next up piece here we're going to cut this piece of hundred-hour hm just write a little mark there and I want to turn that down - was it 0.355 I believe four three five five come in here and touch off [Music] got away [Music] the measurement on this we're at 4,150 hung up about [Music] [Music] we're just gonna sneak up on it here I got about 35 thousands to go I'm on dollar in 20 and they credit having spring on that last pass fifteen to go within stay here about two and a half thousand large about two thousand large and I'll worry about that in a minute so next thing we got to do here is cut this little smaller diameter and on the bottom that's just where the valves going to go in and it's a half inch from the bottom to the where the thread starts so I'm just going to take a Sharpie pen [Music] got my cows of set on half in it just gives me aligned to go to the diameter on that's the quarter of an inch point two five Oh we'll come in here got some more metal off see where we're at so weird about 290 5:45 to go [Music] [Music] so we're about 11,000 so large [Music] still about three and a half large [Music] that would be a light pass here I don't know buddy so next thing I do here is the angle on the end I hadn't need to figure out what angle that was and it looked a lot like a 45 just eyeballing it so to verify that I took in a machinist square here and I ran it up into the corner and it's I basically got a 90 degree angle there on the end it fits perfectly inside my square so that is a 45 degree angle someone adjust my compound now and we're going to cut that angle on the end there have my compound set 45 degrees cutting that back [Music] LastPass and take my time we have a real nice finish on it [Music] it's got the point on there [Music] a little chip there behind it but that looks good hey guys I got my little lay flat threading tool in here we've got our lathe hopefully set to 18 threads per inch I'm gonna check that real quick and I think we're ready to thread this on here so slowed my lathe down I just wanted to make sure we what I'm doing is I'm just inking this thing up so you guys can see my scratch past a little bit better hope that little contrast throughout the threading job I'm doing this more for video than anything else but I think you'll be able to help see it so what I'm gonna do is come in here and I'm gonna start with a scratch pass I'm just going to bring my tool in until it's barely touching right there and I've got my everything set to 18 threads per inch according to the dial and everything so we're waiting on the half nut to come around here are the dread dial I'm gonna engage it I'm gonna let it go across I'm really not cutting anything at this point in time I'm gonna stop about right there and that would be where we come out and we'll set my zero on my cross slide here so that I can go back into that point we're back to zero now I'm gonna take my thread you get pitch gauge here I'm just going to verify we are indeed getting 18 threads per inch which we are so let's cut some threads I think I'm gonna use a hole on this we're ready for our second pass I fed my cross light in about a five thousandth [Music] not sure [Music] alright so we're starting to go on there but it's still a little bit too tight so I'm gonna probably make another light pass or two through here but we're real close to being to our final size bring this back to zero I think I'm just gonna do about a towel on the debt that's kind of cross there five more than a thousand it's actually a very like still a little tight but it's going up on there so think what I'm gonna do here is a just lightly file the tops of my flats sometimes you'll get a little burr that raises up on those I'm not cutting off much here guys I'm just barely fuzzing it let's see if that makes a difference all the difference in the world that's a nice fit I mean it's still a little bit on the tight side but not by much I think it'll be fine quickly after we clean it up a little bit let's check our final fit here come in and that feels really good I'm just going to go ahead and we'll part this off and make our head on the end so we're using this this one here which is another one off that same piece as a model for the head and that's about five eight point six two five so me you can go quite far enough and that's fine that gives me a mark to work off there's a little thing I noticed in here is that we got a nice little angle back here in the back it's about a 60 degree angle about the same as my my threading tool so I'm just going to go in there and I'm gonna use this threading tool just to camp for that get a nice big chamfer on it [Music] and then I'm gonna change but my parting tool in [Music] wanna come over here and put my parting tool in make sure that's about the right height it is cut it off at the 5x links [Music] I'm loosening up my collet Chuck I'm pulling out my piece of stock and uh I'm just gonna put this piece back in backwards and we're gonna machine the head on it first thing we'll do is just come in here and take that little uh sit off the back and I think I just use the same threading tool a little as much as on the other side that looks fine [Music] and there we go looks good so I've got my part set up in the self centering vise on my milling machine I've already centered this up using the edge finder I've shown how to do that many times before and we just want to drill a little 3/16 hole down through here so I'm going to start with a center drill we'll pick this a little starting point and then we'll drill that hole through [Applause] let's change out bits [Applause] [Applause] all right so I got my pin here that's going to press that in here and we're gonna come over to the harbor press now and hopefully drop this thing right home you should go a little bit deeper I'm gonna have to get on my other arbor press to do this this one's kind of flopping around let me uh let me get my bigger press out all right we've got about a quarter inch more I want to press this in here and it's pretty tight but I think with this one all right come on down come on now I got a mark on the back here you guys can't see it that should be hit voila so I got the little piece back into the lubricator this screws down into and let's take her for a test fit you guys can maybe see a little bit better here we go I think that'll be fine hi guys so I realize I made a mistake so I made this one it's made to fit this piece but I forgot that there's a packing that it goes on top of this and basically what this does you put some packing material in there and you can tighten this down and it keeps the steam pressure in and when I did that it wasn't long enough so I went back and I made another one I did it off-camera and I basically just added some length in here and now we got a one that comes in here and we got plenty of room for that packing material to go on get that we all can see it hopefully but got in my smooth area therefore that packing material to work on so anyway modification or making new part and that's just simply because I didn't have an original to work off of and I was kind of having to design this thing in my mind in retrospect it probably could have been just a little bit shorter but I wanted to make sure I got plenty room in there and this is gonna work fine so anyway new nut made there our new valve needle valve made there we'll put the old one back in here this was a the original one that goes down here and this is now ready to go to my friend who's gonna actually put this on a steam locomotive that he's working on which story I'm gonna go see in this coming weekend and over there to them he was willing to get it from me and this is gonna be to actually in his situation can be using it to lubricate the brake cylinders and not the actual steam valves our steam cylinders where the engine is but this will be the lubricate the there you go guys a nice new valve made here that should work just fine and project accomplished so we'll get this over to my buddy and I don't know if I get any video over there with him or not he's not gonna be running the locomotive wouldn't over there I may go back over there another time when he's running it and get some video for you guys I'm just gonna be making a quick visit but I be dropping this off and hopefully he'll be able to get that little glover locomotive going pretty soon thanks a lot appreciate you watching a little machine shop work there I hope you enjoyed it please leave me a thumbs up leave me some comments what have you and if you haven't already please subscribe thanks for watching guys talk to you later [Music] you
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Channel: Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org
Views: 33,802
Rating: 4.9678373 out of 5
Keywords: Machine Shop, Machinist, Lathe, Restoration, Vintage Machinery, Metalworking, How to run a lathe, how to run a mill, Keith Rucker, VintageMachinery.org
Id: 2TnlY7LALMU
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 27min 29sec (1649 seconds)
Published: Fri Nov 17 2017
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