LS1 Complete rebuild part 5

hey welcome back everybody this is the next segment of the ls1 build and you can see what we got going on here all this uh performance camshaft business here so the next step is we're going to install the camshaft in the engine so this cam is really not all that radical if we look at the the cam card here this cam is about 550 lift and the duration at 50 is 204 to 18. not a crazy big cam in fact it's not really the optimal cam that you would you you would want for the best horsepower level it does have a lobe separation of 120 degrees so it's really wide lobe set which is pretty typical for an ls motor but the customer in this situation did not want to have to do a bunch of computer tuning now here's a disclaimer a lot of times it will say on the cam card no computer tuning and my experience has been that gm has a bunch of different tunes on their computers for these engines and sometimes even when it says that you still got to do some tuning on that computer so but this cam does say right in the paperwork in the literature that it doesn't require tuning so um yeah it's about 550 lift and it's got uh 204 intake duration and 218 exhaust duration with a white lobe separation so but it should do pretty good in the ls motor i've used this cam before and they're they're pretty decent for a for an ls engine um that that you want to run really good on the street but don't want to do a lot of major tuning and stuff too so so the next step is to install this turkey of course you want to put your assembly lube on there don't put these in dry and you want to go in real gentle with these we don't want to damage these new bearings or have any issues with it like that and of course i like to leave the plug out in the back you guys and that way i can reach in back here in this hole and you can see i can i can grab the cam back there and just kind of help guide it into that rear that rear bearing just like that down there that is your cam installation and then of course once we get the cam in of course the next step is we want to put the cam plate on here now we'll just go ahead and put our cam plate slash oil gallery cover on here this is going to there's a embedded seal in here and it just takes the four bolts here torque your bolts to the specified just go ahead and get your plate torqued up there and then we can move on to the next step the cam in i always like to put the camshaft position sensor in there we put a new o-ring on it and also make sure you put oil on this you don't want to put this in dry and this just fits right down in there and then you get your retaining bolt on there and torque it you don't need a lot of torque on this it's about 20 20 foot pounds doesn't take much but make sure that that sensor is actually seated before you actually torque it just give it about 20 in foot pounds and you're in business [Applause] now is a good time to put the timing chain on we'll go back to the front of the motor and also we have a gear that has to go on there as well all right guys so for timing chain installation it's it's really not any different than the earlier small block chevy it's basically dot to dot so i've got the piston at top dead center here and my dot right here is at 12 o'clock and i'm just going to go ahead and put this gear on temporarily and i just get a bolt started in it and that way you can go ahead and get your cam at at six o'clock and right now i am at 12 and six right there so that's where the cam needs to be located and then at that point we can just hang our chain on there and we also change this gear too there's a puller special puller for this and a pressing tool i didn't do that on camera because that's probably something that you're going to have a machine shop do for you just have them press that gear off and on for you the the tools are just they're prohibitively expensive i mean you can rent them and do it it's pretty self-explanatory but it's best just to have a shop do that for you so you want to get that lined up dot to dot and that should fall right on your pin there and then we'll go ahead and get our get our bolts started so i suppose i should give you guys a heads up on the bolt torque here the retaining plate that goes on the cam guys underneath the gallery uh plug plate block off plate and a retaining plate for the cam is 18 foot pounds the torque on your cam bolts here is 26 foot-pounds according to gm so you want to make sure that you get get these torqued to the correct torque spec the engine might turn but that's okay usually won't turn too much there we go so yeah just make sure you get those torque to the proper spec and everything will be fine and then you want to you want to verify make sure that you're still dot to dot this moves so i'm going to back it up just a little bit and my cam timing here is dot to dot so we're good now the next step is we want to get that oil pump on and so the oil pump you guys is keyed onto the crank so this is our melling oil pump the partner number is um m295 and they also give you some o-rings along with it that are going to go with the pickup tube so want to make sure that we you use that and i'll show you that here in a minute now i've got the bolt in here to turn the crank this is a crank bolt you don't actually have to take that off to put the pump on this thing the oil gallery is right here and it lines up with the pump and that's just a metal to metal deal there's no gasket that goes in there now another thing is you never want to put this pump on dry you always want to pre-lubricate it so i like to just take and get some oil into the pump here and i will kind of turn that gear in there to actuate that pump just make sure it's not dry and i can hear the oil kind of squeezing through that thing there and that's really what you're after now i've got uh oil all the way up to the i'm turning this and i've got oil all the way up to the pickup here it's kind of messy but you just want to make sure that these gears are lubricated and we got a drip tray here some of that's going to spill out when i put this on but that's okay as long as i got lube in there and then of course this is keyed on and you may have to rotate the crank which is not a big deal we want to go ahead and just kind of let that gear locate itself so we're just going to rotate the crank around till that pump basically just falls down on the crank there it goes it just fell down onto the key and then we just line the pump up to the block there and you can see the bolt holes lined up and when i got bolt holes in it we'll get our bolts in and torque them to specs and that's okay guys so while we're on the subject of the oil pump there's uh something that we kind of need to look at here this is our factory pickup tube and if you look at some of the literature like i'm i'm reading what what melling says here and there said there's two styles of pickups on these engines there's two different o-rings uh depending on the design so the oe o-ring that was red is going to require us to use the green melling oil oil ring that came with the pump if the if the oe o-ring was blue then we need to use melling's black oil pump they give the oil o-ring they give you two different o-rings so if we take a look at our pickup tube this is why you always want to save these old parts our pickup tube has a blue o-ring on it so according to melling we're going to take that off we need to use the black o-ring on this so we're just going to take our black o-ring and put it on there you don't want to use the green one because that was only if the the oem if it had the other oem o-ring okay so we got our black one on there we're going to put a little bit of oil on that o-ring we're going to lubricate it now before we put this on though we got to put our windage tray on this is what's known by most of us as a windage tray gm calls this the oil deflector and it goes toward the back of the engine you want to position that on the engine and get the nuts started on there all right now i want you guys to take note of something here if you look at this oil pump the the pickup screen only has a retainer with one bolt in it and you'll notice there are two bolt holes in that oil pump don't worry about that that's that's normal in fact the gm pump from the factory has two holes in it and it only has one retainer why they did that i don't know but you can see where this thing goes there's a couple of these windage tray or oil shield nuts that are going to actually accept this pickup tube okay so you want to get all these started before you tighten anything up we also want to get our oil pump retaining bolt in there and torque it all right so we've got our pickup screen on we got the two support nuts on for the the support locations and then we've got our our bolt in here you want to go ahead and tighten go ahead and get that o-ring down in there kind of push it down in there and that as you kind of hold that down in just put this in finger tight and that'll kind of hold that o-ring in and you want to torque that bolt to spec the torque on that bolt is is 106 inch pounds you want to be careful tightening that thing it's not much you don't want to snap that bolt off or strip the threads so make sure you torque it with an inch pound torque wrench the retaining nuts for the windage tray or the oil shield are 18 foot-pounds all right so we've got our winded tray bolts torqued we've got our oil pump bolt torqued here to 106 inch pounds and we are rocking and rolling now i am i'll demonstrate how to put the pan on this engine but actually the customer doesn't want the pan on because he's using a special pan for his application so i think i'm going to go ahead and flip it back over and we're going to do the we're going to talk about the cylinder heads and the and the lifters and so forth those are pretty straightforward and then the last thing i think we're going to do is we're going to do the timing cover and the rear cover so the engine covers are actually the most critical part of putting this engine together you got to have some special tools to get those seals centered if you don't do it that way you're going to have leaks so we have a we have a special tool kit here and i'm going to walk you when we get to it how to put those covers on but right now i want to flip it over and talk about the valve the cylinder heads and the valve track all right guys so the next step on the ls engines one thing that's real important to remember is you got to put the lifters in before the heads go on you can't get to them otherwise now we've got our new lifters in here and you can see i've got them in clean engine oil now i can't stress enough how important it is and this gets a little bit messy that you soak roller style lifters roller style now not flat tappets now i see all these youtube videos and stuff where people they're they're putting these lifters flat tappet lifters and oil and they got a push rod and they're pumping the plunger and they're doing all that stuff you know i don't know who came up with that nonsense but if it's a flat tap at lifter even if it's hydraulic you do not have to put them in oil and pump the plunger that that's just complete nonsense so if you see that in a video just find a different video because those guys have no idea what they're doing we're not submerging these in oil because of the hydraulic mechanism here that's that's not the issue the issue is the needle bearings on the roller and always make sure you use engine oil only never use assembly lube on these because a thick assembly lube is going to be too thick on that bearing and so the roller is actually not going to roll the assembly will stop it from rolling and now you're going to have your cam sliding on that roller the cam will over speed the roller and that's going to wipe the roller out so never a thick assembly lube light engine oil only soak them for a good amount of time i've had these in there for an hour or so it's plenty long enough and then on the ls engine of course we have the neoprene i never did like the plastic retainers until i researched how gm made these these things are actually pretty strong and so we just want to take each set of four lifters and again it's a little messy when you take them out of the oil but that's okay a little bit of engine oil draining there down here on the cam shaft is not going to hurt anything just go ahead and get your first four lifters in the first anti-rotator in the in the neoprene bracket and that slot right there there's a flat slot it fits into that flat slot there it pops in there and that's what keeps this lifter from spinning okay now that you've got that set of lifters in you just go ahead and take your retainer it's very simple you just slide those lifters very carefully into the lifter bore you got to kind of work them in but they will go down in there just gently tap them in and that's your lifter retainer then you want to go ahead and put your retaining bolt on that holds this thing in place that's your guide and we're going to torque that to specs now you're going to repeat that you've got four sets of four here so we're going to do these four and then we're going to do the other two on the other side i won't do all that on camera because one is good enough for a demo but i'll go ahead and get the rest of them in and get these bolts torqued up off camera and then we'll come back and start talking about our cylinder heads all right so we've got our all of our lifters installed and got the retainers torqued down these are our felpro head gaskets and you got a couple of dowel pins on the block here you want to make sure both these dowel pins are in and these gaskets are directional guys so you can see you've got a pattern on one side the on one side the pattern is going to be up and then the other side the pattern is going to be down and here's why right here i don't know how well you can see it but it says front so there there is a front and a back so on on this bank i mean if we we put it on like this the word front's going to be back here and that is not no good so this one here goes like this with the word front obviously in the front of the engine so just get it on your dowel pins and then of course on the other side it's flipped around this way and the pattern the blue pattern is going to be up it doesn't matter which way the gasket goes as far as this goes but it does matter front to back so if you look on this one we've got the word front right here so we're going to go ahead and put it on like that and that's going to have our our blue pattern up so that's that's the way that the fel pro gaskets go on these engines and so once you get your lifters in your retainers in and torqued basically it's just a matter of putting the cylinder head on and torquing the bolts to specs now the cylinder head bolts are torqued to yield like we talked about earlier in the in the series we are going to go ahead and we're going to use arp fasteners for this for this engine so we got us ourselves an an arp bolt kit here for the ls1 now remember the the factory bolts are torqued to yield you can't reuse them they're one time use only um i i personally like to upgrade these bolts i think that the factory bolts on these ls engines are are kind of wimpy personally that's just me and i mean you know full disclosure there are guys that have reused those head bolts and had pretty good success with them matt happel does it a lot um and they do work but if i'm building something for somebody else i'm not going to do that if i was building something for me i may do that but uh something that's got to go in a customer's car we're going to go with arp's okay so and also remember the the ls has really long head bolts there's actually two different head bolt sets an early and a late and some of them had a couple of shorter bolts some of them have all long bolts it just depends on the setup that you've got so we've got the correct head bolt set for for this particular year of engine this is a 2001 or 2002 somewhere in there and now it's just a matter of getting your cylinder heads on the engine so i like to take a couple of bolts and put them in the head now when you put these washers on make sure that the big chamfer inside goes up also very critical here we're going to use our arp lube and i've talked a lot about this before you want to get some of that under the head bolt there between the washer and the head of the bolt and then a little underneath that washer where it contacts the head and then of course you want to put some of this get this on the threads here really important so we're going to do that to a couple of these bolts and then i'm going to go ahead and um put them in the cylinder head and use them as guides to guide our guide our cylinder head onto the engine now you can see on our cylinder head i've got a couple of a couple of the bolts in and then we're just going to line those bolt holes up and we're going to set the head on the nice thing about these heads is they are super light and it's just really very easy to put these on now before you walk away when you do this you want to get these bolts started in here all right you guys so make sure you get your ar p lube on now some of the ls engines required a shorter bolt if you look at the head bolts on these things they're super long and the reason that they designed it that way is they wanted the the threaded holes way down in the block away from the top of the cylinder so it wouldn't distort the cylinder it's actually a really good design this particular ls takes a shorter bolt on the upper end side so if you look at the rest of these bolts here they're really long but the two shorter bolts are going to go on the end now not all of the sn ls engines they change that at a certain year i'm not sure which one but some of them actually take the long bolts in every bolt hole but on our particular engine here we have to use the shorter bolts on the upper end side so just get all your bolts in with the arp lube and then we can run them down and torque them to specs you guys so i've got all the bolts and now one more thing that i would recommend here is get yourself one of these this is a thread chaser for an ls and i like i said the head bolt threads are really deep in the block and they have a tendency to get a little bit of crud and stuff on them this particular thread chaser is made by arp and i bought this it even says if you look here it says arp on it man i bought this like 15 years ago and i have probably done 300 of these engines chased the threads on them and this thing is still working as good as it did the day i bought it but that's one issue that you run into if you try to put the head bolts in these without chasing the threads a lot of times there's some crud and and you know just some some boogers down in there that'll that'll screw you up and it could damage the thread so make sure you chase the threads really good on every single bolt hole before you put the bolts in all right so we've got our arp fasteners in we got the arp lube on them and now we're going to torque these guys on all right so torquing the bolts you guys on the ls one now if you have the factory bolts you're gonna go to a certain torque and then you're gonna go a certain number of degrees when you have arp bolts that is not the way you're going to do it you got to follow what arp says so what arp says is these big bolts out here the outer the 10 outer bolts starting here and working your way to the outside they want you to torque all the fasteners to 25 foot pounds then you want to go where they want you to go back in sequence to 50 foot pounds and then the final torque is 75 once you get all 10 of these outer bolts torque to 75 in three steps they want you to come in and after that's done torque these inner bolts here to 25 foot pounds right now these are just hand tight so and that's the way arp says to do it if you're not really sure you don't remember what i just told you make sure that you get on a arp's website and make and and figure out get on a rp's website and get this information for twerking these i have the torque sequence here on my phone all right here we go it's 25 following that sequence basically we're going in a criss-cross pattern from front to back okay that's 25 now we're gonna bump it up to 50. all right and 75 75 is our final value on these again these are arp specs all right now let's count one two three four five six seven eight nine ten all right always go over those and count make sure that you didn't miss anything now we'll change our socket we'll back this back down to 25 foot-pounds and we're going to torque these inner bolts here all right that's it heads torque now i'll go ahead and do the other one off camera i don't think i need to do both of those but that's basically it for installing the cylinder heads once i get the other one torqued we'll we'll move on to these covers

Channel: Myvintageiron7512

Views: 45,746

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Id: uHA-oyOMOjc

Length: 27min 49sec (1669 seconds)

Published: Sun Jan 10 2021