Logical Diagnosis Needed! Chevy Silverado 4.3 Check engine Light-P0300 P0341 P0430 P0128

hello there everybody good day to you welcome back glad you guys are here we are uh returning to the 2004 Chevrolet Silverado that was blowing black smoke out of the tailpipe and barely ran uh in the last episode I diagnosed uh some of the drivability issues and uh I tossed in a uh what you call it a uh oh Bank One Sensor One O2 sensor what was happening is it had a faulty sensor and it was sending the bank one that cylinders one three and five into a full rich condition some of this flooding half the engine then the other half was running lean because it was trying to pull back fuel because the overall system said hey I'm running way way way wrong so because of that I put the sensor in we watched the fuel trim data come back into line and on this episode I want to go ahead and address that camshaft position sensor problem so what we're gonna do I'm gonna hop into this scanner and I'm just going to clear all the dtc's out we're going to turn off that check engine light we're going to restart the engine let it run for a little while and then uh we're gonna see if it trips that P0340 code right away or if I've got to go drive it uh once that code trips or does not trip that's going to determine the path forward with the rest of the repairs uh I do have some more misfires to sort out I can kind of feel it right now but it uh as you saw it did start and it seems to be running a billion times better than it that it did when we found it so let's just uh revisit those trouble codes one more time before I clear them that way we're all refreshing our memory we've got the p128 thermostat stuck open code p300 random multiple misfires p0341 camshaft sensor circuit out of range and that one's gone it's still doing that uh randomly disappearing trouble code thing uh that catalytic converter p430 code that's kind of last on the list it may have a catalytic converter that's underperforming but with all those fuel trims being way out of line and all the misfires we have to disregard that code at this current point in time soon see I think this is all where it was when we last left it I'm gonna go ahead and back out of this clear these guys out shut her down restart the engine and we're gonna see exactly what decides to pop back up there we go clear codes and fear not uh this entire video unlike the last one is not going to be us buried in the scan tool looking at data we're going to move past that and we're going to do some hard part repairs if our our failures reappear so codes have been cleared check engine light is off let's go ahead power this thing down and we'll give it as a restart okay all right so with all of our dtc's cleared I'm revisiting fuel trims one more time we've got short trim or short term fuel trim spank one and Bank two they are both hovering uh slightly in the negative which is fine they're plus or minus you know five to ten have hovering around zero long terms are both steady at zero and zero that's what we want to see now I do not have an instantaneously reoccurring p340 that's that camshaft position sensor circuit code that thing has not popped back up just yet now we've only had like two minutes of run time so I'm not going to dismiss that however I'm on the path to trying to track down these subtle misfires and engine vibrations that it has going back to our first video we recall having all that pluma smoke flying out of the tailpipe and then the long crank and then the of course the stalling and misfiring because the bank one side of this engine was running so rich I believe that those spark plugs in there are fouled out something fierce so uh what we're gonna do I think before tackling that uh distributor issue is I'm going to go ahead and we're going to pop out some of those spark plugs that's on the bank one side and take a look at their condition if they need to be replaced or if we need to do any additional work we can proceed from there I just want to make sure that this thing remains in good drivable condition before it goes back out on the road now I do have here a new thermostat with the uh with the thermostat housing that's our housing there's our t-stat I believe that's 195 degrees yep yeah it says down inside that hole it says 195 degree on the Fahrenheit scale so that's the appropriate temperature thermostat for this truck but we can do we can do that after we take a look at these uh secondary ignition components additionally there was one other thing that I wanted to uh to touch up on and that was this wiring repair that goes to the connector to this ignition coil I don't really care for how this has been done and I think I'm going to end up redoing that so let's fetch us some under hood lumens so we can see what we're trying to see here and uh we'll get to work with pulling those plugs out once I get the top of the intake off I can go ahead and tidy up that wire and then we'll get uh if we need to put plugs in there we will and then we can restart and reassess at that point in time engaging surface of the Sun mode there we go now we can see what we're trying to see all right looking right here right out of the gate we're already coming up with some compelling evidence on these ignition wires see that spark plug wire right there how it's running across the manifold and then the wire is rubbing on that manifold see that right there that's no good it's a little bit too tight in its uh in that little bracket there and that thing has huge potential for arcing yeah we can even see there's a there's marks where it was burning on the uh on the metal itself right there so yeah that's uh that's a little bit of uh compelling evidence yeah look at that to uh to replace these wires I'm gonna try to pull these plugs out without breaking the wires because I said I would um if I can reuse them and find out that they're not arcing which I'm pretty sure they are we're gonna have to replace those as well so let's dig uh let's get this number one spark plug out of its hole right there that's the easiest one to get to and then we can uh we can go from there sure what we're going to do is go in with the curvy needle nose pliers here get a hold of that boot without poking a hole through it we're going to try to peel that away looks in there yeah not the greatest okay spark plug socket coming in with the extension these are always fun with those metal heat shields around the exhaust also because those heat shields can get in the way of the spark plug socket and then you have a hard time removing it neutral drop yeah about that that's not uh not looking too happy that thing's toast yeah it's black and then fouled out let me get my ramp gauge and we'll check the uh the clearance on this we're gonna check uh we'll check the gap so the way this is going to work is I call this a ramp gauge because the gauge section of it is in fact a ramp it goes from twenty thousandths of an inch and scales all the way up to 80 thousands so what we do is we take our spark plug put the gauge in the gap between the plug and its electrode so slide it over until it stops wiggle it some where do we land look at that 74 thou that's where it's coming out at so all right that's one that one's out of spec that is due to either being improperly gapped or from what we can see here it looks like there's some wear inside of that plug see that yepper okay that is one worn spark plug adding to my case let's pull the rest of them out and see what they look like all right reaching on in we're gonna get a hold of spark plug wire number two here let's try to pop this guy out without uh oh that one's gonna break uh maybe not did I get it survey says I think I got it yeah let's just pull this thing aside go in there and pull out that second plug same procedure reach on back get a hold of it maneuver ourselves around that steering column a steering shaft gets in the way on these four threes says you're supposed to actually uh go into the wheel well to get a hold of that number three plug back there and I can't even get my socket on it there we go socket install okay got the wobbly bits inside let's try to maneuver around the flashlight around that steering shaft okay that's not gonna work let's try it with an extension see if I can't get that guy out of there [Music] kinda come on out plug the numeral dose here we go all right let's see what we have here this is a spark plug uh number three out of the number three cylinder and we're gauging out on this one at looks like 68 thousands see that right there yeah that's 68 not as bad as that other one but it does have some decent amount of uh of carbon buildup on it and there is wear at the electrode yeah some more lumens yeah it's not horrendous but I'm fairly certain we're tracking down the source of some of those random misfires all right so way in the back I stabbed you guys with my thing there way in the back we've got the cylinder number five wire now this is interesting seems to have a coolant temp sensor wire wrapped around it see that right there uh I fear breaking that so I'm gonna try to disconnect that temp sensor where yeah we'll unplug this guy and get that unwrapped around let's inspect this wire for damage it was sitting on the exhaust nah that looks okay yeah that wire is not melted through so that's fine let's put this up and out of our way and then I can reach back there and get that number five ignition wire removed this was the trouble side of the engine that's the one that had a the misfire counts and the tens of thousands come on now I'd like to do this without breaking this but I'm gonna wiggle action come on I'm gonna ruin this one guys I don't know if I can get this one off without uh poking a hole in it or tearing the boot let's get a hold of it from farther back twist there we go watching around again with the wobble on the plug right there got it if I can't neutral drop this one to come out of there let's see what it does missed it gotta get some ratchet speed up [Music] come on [Music] all right plug number five coming out all right spark plug from cylinder number five coming in here let's check this one out let's get her gapped up which scale am I on wrong one this one's looking like 73 74 thou that's interesting it's a little sideways there that's not centered the electrode is not centered see that I wonder if that's broken this thing broke hang on here I can't tell if that's uh got broken porcelain or oh yeah yeah look at that and look at here watch this look at that yeah that thing's broken off down in the plug we found her running sideways okay John all right let's go ahead I've got some new plugs here these are uh ngkg powers let's go ahead and get a comparison between the uh the new unit and the old ones see that right there that's a copper cord plug and I think this one is nickel or platinum think about you Platinum what the box say box says Platinum Outlet okay yeah so these are Platinum tip these are regular run-of-the-mill copper tip so that one's junk we don't need that check the Gap real quick on our new ones they're supposed to be pre-gapped inspect is 60 thou we're looking at like 59 thou right here I'll take that out of the box so NGK for the win these ones are going in the old original looking-ish delcos are coming out okay now you guys saw the uh potentially destructive method of pulling these things out doing neutral drops on your uh electric ratchets is not really great for the external portion of the porcelain on the spark plug and so there's no way we're going to put those back in in such a fashion additionally we can cross thread the plug into the cylinder head and then ruin the head and all of those are not ideal situations so having said that we're going to start these by hand and then slowly run them in with the tools you got to be careful with the tools you don't want to break your uh your sensitive components there we go nice and easy like and we'll tighten her up by hand a little more a little tighter here oh hang on you guys gotta back up you're in the way there we go package that spark plug on cylinder five installed very good okay plug number or cylinder number three rather that one's coming in this one gapped out at uh 58 thousands which is right on the money that's acceptable specified range so that one can go in next without any modification let's run down where are you get on there there and packages there we go let's go ahead so the three complete let's move on to cylinder one okay next one's coming in let's get this guy threaded up uh what I'm going to do is after I get these three plugs changed I'm gonna go ahead and plug these wires back in since I did not break them and we're going to review the scan tool data real fast and see if there's any misfires showing up or or better yet uh we'll see how it feels since the misfire account wasn't picking up on what I was feeling we'll see if I can just uh visually notice a difference in performance try that first a little bit more and pickage all right so three new plugs installed let's get wire so let's get our wires on there I may pull these back off and change them with the new set I have uh yet to determine that if I can get it running really good without putting wires in it then I won't but we'll see I got a feeling I'm putting wires in this let's see look I think that's in yep and then the one in the back way back there very good oh yeah yeah yeah and our coolant temp sensor that's got to get plugged in as well otherwise I'll give myself a check engine light again I mean I want one I do want I'd like to have the check engine light but not on a code that I caused through uh leaving stuff disconnected okay let's get out of here restarts the engine and then we'll recheck everything all right back in the cabin restocking Z engine much much more better yeah that shake is uh no longer present this is good okay so we definitely got somewhere with uh replacing the plugs on this side let's go shut this thing down again pull the plugs on the other side and then uh we'll take a look at what those that sides looking like powering down I like watching the improvements progress as you put parts in it's nice alrighty so over here on the passenger side I'm gonna pull this intake tubing off [Music] a couple reasons reason number one I want to clean out that mass airflow and the reason number two I also want to clean out the throttle body but uh more importantly I need to get access to this wire right here and these for our spark plugs and wires down here on the passenger side of this engine show pull our big wing nut off and pop this unit forward disconnect the PCV hose right here on the valve cover and then our tube comes free dirty in there look at that yeah yeah that needs some cleaning no problem loaded it with some uh some throttle body cleaner give it a spray and a soap come back and wipe that down later okay with all that removed we've got a little bit more access on this side of the engine so let's get these wires popped out of here and pull these plug snaps all right coming in let's get the hard one first in the back get a hold of this guy I'm just going to pop all three of these out at once and then we'll pull all the plugs out at once as well save us a little bit of time there's that one cylinder four come here [Music] let's see here that one that one there good to go all right pop these units out take a peek at them see if they're in any better or worse condition than the other side [Music] there's one number two [Music] got that one out and the one out back cylinder six [Music] here we go okay three new spark plugs coming in we'll get them threaded and then uh run them down apply some torque we'll check out these wires I'm I'm very inclined to put wires on this I have not decided on that distributor yet I [Music] I'm gonna drive it first that distributor is an extra couple hundred bucks and if we don't have to change it then then I don't I don't want to so if that code doesn't show up then I'm not going to fuss over it I can't even get this plug to get started though that heat Shield's in my way [Music] oh hot [Music] uh warm Caliente in espanol there we go there you got one's started kinda [Music] there we go now we're cooking [Music] letting this guy down [Music] The Shield's putting like a side load on uh spark plug socket they all do that on these four threes [Music] come on come tight quick inch there we go give me back my socket fees [Music] come on heat shield give it back seriously and I never said oh there we go got it socket gravity let's try to get uh cylinder number two thread it in that's going all the way up front here [Music] that's the easier one to reach and I can't start that one with the socket either all heat shields there we go coming in with the socket right here get that started good now let's get her tight [Music] pickage there we go five down one to go that one actually looks kind of easier straight shot into the plug hole right here I think better be make a liar out of me come on there it is got it manual clicks there we go all right all six plugs are now installed all right so here's the deal kind of based on what we saw in that other spark plug on the other side uh let's see this one I found a crack in this wire right here you see it right there there's a crack in that one there's a couple other little burnt rubbing through Spots I'm going to go ahead and change these wires out um I think I'm gonna go ahead and speed this up and I'll just do that in high speed fast motion because you guys have been staring at these spark plugs for this whole video so I'm going to back you up some we're just going to speed this up and uh let me get these wires switched out and then uh we'll go ahead and restart this thing and recheck it [Music] all right [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] okey-dokes that's all of them six of them anyway let's get uh wire number seven that's right there are seven spark plug wires on this V6 engine and the seventh one goes from the coil back to the distributor cap so let's get that one plugged in and back down oh and around oddly enough the seventh wire is the most important wire because all of the spark for every single cylinder is going to travel through this wire right here whereas the other cylinders have their own individual wire interesting on that guy in gotta feel the audible snap or feel in here you don't get to snap then it's not connected and if it's not connected it's gonna come off there we go click edges got it that one's on okay all seven wires are on these wires are getting handled in a minute let's grab the spray one more time re-soak that throttle body we'll go in there and wipe her down let's go in there with a towel Wipe Out the mouth of it we'll grab the throttle plate yeah look at all that nasty down in there gross we'll reach past wipe all that stuff down now it's less gross and we'll go in through the front side of it as well there and to get the spots we uh couldn't wipe spray it stinky I think that's a about as good as I can get it let's add some Q-tips which I do not okay so before we really go any further I want to kind of tidy up this uh replacement wire connector business that we've got going on here show it looks to me like this is just two wires on this coil but we have a three wire connector so we've got this spare one just kind of dangling hanging out in the open we don't need that that looks ugly so we're gonna snip that guy off and get rid of that then what I'm gonna do is we're gonna go ahead and cut off these butt connectors right there and we're gonna shorten these so they're more prettier see that [Music] go ahead and strip this one out [Music] get the spare wire exposed a little bit more I did not strip it enough more stripping there we go now this one a little farther down inside that convolute so you gotta reach down a little ways here give it some twists and some rotations we'll gyrate it and then you can throw our connectors Over The Wire these are soldered connectors with built-in heat shrink I'll run the wires into each other give them a Twist to create a semi-mechanical connection came out fail twist this up [Music] and then I'll slide the solder connector down over it and we'll hit it with a little torch to melt the solder and shrink the heat shrink all right a little torch coming in fire it up there we go and we'll just apply some heat start from the back side here do the heat shrink first that way it locks the wires into place and then I can go back and attack the solder [Music] come on solder begin melting the back side is starting to melt it's good flip it around get her from the front side here [Music] you gonna flow solder or what if it doesn't flow I'll have to get the gun out I think it's going yeah yep I see some shiny in there the solder is soldering [Music] we'll go ahead the next one uh prepped up and ready we're gonna do these equal length if at all possible that way it stays pretty [Music] get the little one stripped [Music] right about there 3 8 of an inch or so wiggle it so it cuts in peel it away [Music] the same thing on the white wire here one connector [Music] push these guys into each other [Music] twist them up [Music] a good flow on that solder connection I see it wicking through the exposed wire in there good good good good all right so far so good now let's take our convolute here also known as wire loom we're going to clean this up a little bit and then cover up the repair we'll do that by putting the wires back inside of the Loom slip the new one down over the old one see that and then get these guys tucked in now we're pretty look at that that's that's much more better see that that'll leave you stranded if you don't know how to find it we're gonna fix that too here we got to do this without interfering with the uh the actual wires that are on this connector so I'm trying to see how to do this without uh causing like a problem um might have to do this in like stages yeah that was a mistake or not maybe not [Music] oh God no God please no no no no no okay that plan was a failure kind of I learned how not to zip tie this thing together so I'm switching my idea to smaller zip ties we're going to switch them out and try something different here we can run let's run a loop around the base of this ignition module right then I can run a zip tie through my Loop this makes sense watch this it will it'll make sense in a moment [Music] it'll take three total zip ties to accomplish this little idea of mine it's either gonna work or it's not I really would like it to work yeah we're doing two Loops through there [Music] now I can take this first one and lock that down against that little lip right here see that that allows me to tighten the two Loop ones and create some pressure that will secure oh that one came off no matter I got one it'll create some pressure that's going to secure that we'll put you back I found the flaw in my system but I can remedy that with another zip tie watch this [Music] flip I could glue it on but that's a little bit more permanent [Music] not pretty but it's better than it was sniff these guys off there we now have a secure or a more secure wire this is good all right that's super pretty I like it so let's uh look to the right a little bit and we can hook our intake tube back on get that guy lined up I think the stud came through the hole which it did yeah yeah see it right there that's our stud let's get our wing nut screwed back into our stud come here wing nut sud there we go let's get that guy tight we'll get the PCB hose hooked back up and then we'll reconnect over here at the Matas airflow I also gave the mass airflow a squirt to uh help clean it off a little bit let's get you you plugged in right right there you go good and the positive crankcase ventilation tube that goes right there a couple left forward clicks on that clamp we'll take this thing out of the road stickages all right all right put drop rod removed closing the hood let us restocking Z engine double check it first and then we'll uh we'll head out on the road see how it rides all right nice that long crank was a result of all the cleaner that I sprayed it was sitting on top of the intake manifold and it had to suck all that up and get rid of it before the thing was going to run I can prove it watch I'll shut her down and instant restart see looking good though I see no shaking action no visible misfire action here throttle is responsive Good To Go okie dokes let's climb back into this bad unit right here we'll do one more quick uh code scan check and then we'll uh we'll pull her out and hit the road now keep in mind I fully expect that check engine light to return it's at least gonna come back with the EVAP system leaks uh or the p0440 and the p0443 it might come back with that camshaft position sensor trouble code in which case I'll have to look into that distributor but I wanted to rule out all the misfires first before going after that uh that cam position code so we're kind of taking this in baby steps instead of just you know one full boat change everything pots Cannon I'm going to pull up misfires and we're gonna just keep the misfire counter on display while we go out and head out for our test drive so approach for safety let's back this thing out and uh we'll see how it runs okay the misfire logger is pulled in uh these are going to be the current misfires in this top section of the menu and then down here in the History Section that's going to show all Mr or misfires that were logged that took place during uh the past couple drive cycles now if you remember from the last video these have been cleared out and I believe they also re-cleared when we did the trouble code clear earlier in this video so if any misfires do show up they will remain stored in these history pids over here and away we go I think we're gonna do the normal short test test drive route we're gonna go around the block up and over the bridge and then around the block again back to the shop that should be sufficient to uh tell us what we want to know here okay we're breathing on the throttle a little bit picking up some speed felt pretty good so far as we head up the bridge we're going to do a wide open throttle event and that'll tell us uh pretty much everything we need to know here see what we've got going on traffic I'll wait don't switch lanes full speed [Music] second gear ship was kind of aggressive but the engine feels good it's very good I like it my telephone is ringing who is it hello Hi how are you doing hello how are you wait wait I I'm sorry I didn't catch that who are you calling [Music] foreign yeah yeah we have that yeah do you have extra benefits for us is that is that the reason for the call oh excellent okay so just please hold on um okay that's good I I don't know what she said I really don't thank you so much for holding on this is how are you doing today uh hello yeah I was talking to Emma earlier and she said that it was it was your turn to talk how are you today sir hello hello why I didn't even I didn't even say anything yet come on man those guys are getting good well anyway this truck's moving so I'm I'm guessing we got our left turn uh little arrow over here let's check it yep left turn arrow indicates we're going to make our left turn let's swing back into the shop uh maybe Emma will call back but let's head back into the shop and we can review the scanner data and see if there's anything of consequence uh that has uh has showed up crossing the tracks pulling in hello a Tropicana trains let's get this thing pulled in and uh we'll recheck everything I have not seen uh that check engine light come on for the camshaft position sensor code so I'm thinking that may have been a fluke or an older latent code oh no the paycheck collection truck is here oh no yeah no way not today snap on guy I have to go on an extended test drive [Music] Snap-on truck you can't get me up here uh okay he's gone now we can go back to the shop and recheck our data not gonna get me today paycheck collection truck man there we go parking's the auto let's go ahead and shut her down let's put a link to dry cycle three stockings the engine we're looking for a trouble code that's a big negative you got nothing let's get into uh misfired data one more time collecting data satellites linking up and okay so there's our currents let's give it a throttle blip real quick nothing's showing up live let's check history oh yeah look at that zeros all the way across the board no misfire history all right that is a success in my book let's just uh check for trouble codes real quick codes menu see if any of them reset uh while we were driving or if they reset uh on that uh second ignition cycle all powertrain codes there we go it's hard to read and talk at the same time no codes present however I do expect that p430 to show up the catalytic converter efficiency below threshold and I do expect those EVAP system codes to show up at some point but we can cross those bridges when we get there at this point I'm not entirely convinced we need to dive into that distributor assembly and do anything with uh that camshaft position sensor circuit code so I do believe at this point this video uh is at conclusion and we have a completed a successful repair vehicles running well it starts it runs does the stall doesn't blow smoke stays running it's got decent power no weird noises I think we're good to go here so that being said I'm gonna go ahead and close this video out right now it's the end of the day it's almost 5 p.m I'm ready to go home we are finished so I'm gonna go ahead in this one right now I'll do that as always by thanking you guys for watching this video certainly hope you enjoyed this video if you did enjoy this video or the last one please feel free to let me know about that by tapping that like button down below don't forget to drop a comment or two while you're down there and most importantly have yourself a great day see you guys later into Chevrolet in a day end of tune up in the transmission Silverado powering down powering down there we go

Channel: Rainman Ray's Repairs

Views: 151,524

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Id: oeHXjmCV40o

Length: 46min 1sec (2761 seconds)

Published: Wed Jul 26 2023