LiveStream - Loading Marlin on multiple boards & Q/A

so so so how's the uh sound almost ready to start here i'm just uh finding more boards so um so so she so okay okay this is going to be interesting uh i'm going to be talking about some boards you've never seen before hopefully so let's get the show on the road okay first board you've probably never seen before is one i probably can't pronounce correctly but this is a as teague and i'm probably mangling the name but it's an x3 pro i think it's made by penner set or penter cat there it is let's see it's pen you cap so this was originally what the board was for the special breakouts on the steppers where they actually integrated in the board i was gonna do a tutorial on this but then i thought about the actual price that it would cost to actually buy this board for most people so i decided not to so there's also it's not 32-bit it but i believe it's 8-bit but i'll show you how i know that so in the very center you have the mcu or the processor which is located right here so if we zoom in on it real quick you can see that it says at mega 2560 upside down right here so that tells me it's uh actually 8-bit so in order to load this there are two ways that i know of that it possibly works but one would be to load it via the usb port or through the sd card so i got an sd card here just in case i don't think i've actually ever tried to load this so i'll show you how it works out so essentially i need to lock this down so it doesn't slide all over the table and this will be one of the first unusual boards that i'll show you there's going to be several others but we'll just test them to see if we can make them work meaning load the firmware powering them is going to be a different story so let's start with just attaching the usb to get an understanding so no power so i see that there's a jumper cap right over here so this is probably for usb power because there's a third pin to the right so i'm going to pick this up and slide this over to the other two pins and push it down and then plug it in so now it powers so what we can do is actually go over to the desktop of the computer and see what's going on so over on the desktop i'll show you what it looks like so on the desktop here i'm going to type device manager just to see if we can see if it actually shows up and so what we're going to need to do is probably check our serial ports and it just refreshed so it's com port 9 and the reason i know that is if i unplug it this will disappear so i'm going to pull the plug for the usb give it a second and now we only have com port 1 which is default to the computer so i'll plug it back in and we have it so let's go over to bs code and see if we can set this up so inside bs code i'm gonna go to my folder explorer go to my downloads folder open up marlin 2.0 2.0 select folder now i got to find this board and i'm not sure where it's going to be because i've never actually loaded it so we already have the default chipset here that might be correct but we're gonna have to go over to marlin source core boards.h and then we're gonna have to type in the name of it and so i'm gonna have to sneak a peek at the board in a second just to see what the name is so let's go over there and look real quick so on the workbench you can see the name is down here is azt eeg so let's try that let me uh show you what i'm looking at so here's the name of the board down in here so let's go see if we can find that so i'm going to search on azt eeg and i got to spell it correctly and we found a board so the version that we have i think is the pro so let me take a quick peek and i'll let you see so down here we see x3 pro so let's go back over and we're going to copy this then we'll go back over to well we'll go over to configuration.h and we'll search on motherboard here we'll highlight the ramps board and we'll paste it now we're probably going to have to leave the serial port alone for the moment and we'll leave the baud rate alone let's go back over and check out pins real quick maybe there's something that we need to know so down here it's under the chipset section of atmega2560 which means that we're probably in the right place which would be in platform io.ini for the default environment now we can also check out pins while we're at it so we can go over to source minimize core for a second go to pins look for the atmega2560 folder if there is one it's probably going to be the ramps folder or the rambo or the mega that makes most sense so now we can see if we can find the pins on it so it's going to be probably close to what the name is in configuration.h which is going to be this so board a z so let's see if it's in here so i don't see it that doesn't mean it doesn't exist it means i just don't know where it is so let's minimize that we'll go over to the rambo boards look around go over to the ramps board and there it is so these are the pin outs for this board saying where everything is located so you can see that they've got the fans under certain pins so if you go to your pin out diagram which i've never looked up for this board that might be one of the reasons i never actually made a tutorial on it so let's see if there's anything else we can pick out here so there's usually an include so let's see if we can find what the include is if it points to another board doesn't look like it does usually it's either at the top or the bottom it does have stuff for i guess a spindle laser so pulse width modulation is pwm and it says what pin now apparently uh it might be referring to the definitions in the ramp spins which would mean that it's saying okay include ramps but i don't see that in here so what we're going to do is just try and load it real quick so i'm going to go over to configuration.h have it set to port 0 and i'm going to do a clean so i can clean out the actual folder up here which is going to be inside of hang on a second dot pio there originally was the ramps so that's now cleared out so let's try and build it real quick and see what happens with the check box this is just to check a sanity test that we can actually build it so as you can see it's compiling and it's actually filling this folder with the actual configuration so it looks like it built no problem it created an elf file and a firmware dot hex this is actually your firmware this is in hexadecimal so as you can see the highest you can go to is f in hexadecimal and there's probably one or two in there someplace but hexadecimal is counting from zero all the way up to f it's a a 16 bit um configuration i don't want to get into the computer science part of it too much so i'm going to skip that basically it's just the numerical information that needs to be sent to the chip in order to program it in the format that it's in binary would be zero and one that's why it's called the bin so let's try and send it now with upload and i'll check on the chat in two seconds so let's see good morning how's it doing uh marcelo and let's see multiple boards is that working together with together on the same printer or separate or multiple printers right now we're just looking at it at the tabletop level hooking it to a printer is essentially just making the connections so your x your y your z access stuff like that so it looks like it's flashing so it looks like we can actually load via the usb port on this one so to test it i need to actually open up the uh pronterface just to see if we can connect to it so i'll go to pronterface open that up and this is just used mostly for testing now for me i don't usually use it for printing anymore i use crud slice and then i usually send it over to a raspberry pi as octopi or octoprint and that's how i print now so it has a similar interface but it's not the same so as you can see the com port says one we already checked it no it's nine in device manager so it should be in theory in the drop down so let's click connect it says connecting and it comes up it tells us our firmware version so let's see if the end stops are working they should all say triggered so we'll type uh m119 press enter they all say triggered now we can actually test them real quick hey amra so let's uh test the actual configuration on the actual pronterface workbench so i'm going to bring this up so you can see it so i'm going to disconnect this for a second and i'm going to grab an end stop now i don't know how to connect this correctly so i have to look at the board and find where the end stops would be and unfortunately i don't see them right away and this might be one of the reasons that i didn't set this up so what i'm probably going to have to do is actually look up online what this looks like so give me a second to find it so this was a z t e e g 3 x pro pin outs and hopefully i'll find the actual pin outs it's going to take me a second to find it so this kind of looks like it so let me open the website okay this is i'll show you what this looks like now so what we have here is the actual configuration for the pin outs so you can see that you have your x your y your z e1 e2 e3 e4 e5 so it's got five steppers technically they usually count from zero so it would be four for its last one and it doesn't look exactly the same with the actual information down here but i could be not reading it originally but it looks like it has a buzzer which is kind of cool but let's see if i can find the end stops they look like they're right here so these would be the pins so i need to zoom in on this so it looks like to hook up the pins there's two ways to do it meaning that you can connect via the uh blocks with the screws or you can do it above so i got to be real careful here because they don't want to set my board on fire by hooking it up wrong so i gotta see if i can find a better diagram of this because i can't see close enough to it so give me a second more just to see if i can find information on this that's better but there's got to be an actual website for this otherwise i'm not going to hook up the end stop to it because you'll see smoke come out of the board if i do it wrong and apparently it's hard to find source material on this but this might be slightly better so what i'm trying to do is actually see as close as i can because we have x minus then we have the actual information and then over here up on the board there's more information so i'm trying to figure out what's ground signal and power so i can hook to just signal and ground with this particular end stop because i'm trying to play it safe so i'm going to go back over to the desktop and i'm actually going to pick the board up and flip it over so i can see what's going on so on this board we're going to pop it off the table i got to pull this little gummy stuff off that i keep to keep it in place and we're just going to look around the board and i'm going to look up close so there's an x plus in the center there's a minus so another way that i can check this is actually checking it with a multimeter to figure out what the pins are so we might try that next but i'm guessing it's going to be ground or ground is going to be in the center and voltage is going to be on the side but this board obviously makes me very nervous to work on because there's no actual writing underneath so let's go back over and check to see if we can see better on the desktop so inside of here this traces to negative and this one goes straight up so i'm assuming that signal or ground in the center so we're gonna take a chance and try that out so we'll go over to the board and i don't have my multimeter nearby and probably never going to use this board again so we'll try it out so excuse me i'm going to connect that up and then power it and if you see smoke that means i messed up so i'm going to take the end stop and click it i don't see any smoke so let's go back over to pronterface so inside pronterface i'm going to pick this up click this down well i'm going to connect first then i'm going to click this down do an m119 again and it doesn't say anything so that's awesome so either the board's fried or i don't know what i'm doing for the end stops so we'd have to measure these electrically so i'm not going to spend too much time on this board but essentially your end stops are down in here and then you have these ports figuring out what ground and signal is and also voltage you basically take your leads on your multimeter let me grab one actually i think i have one hidden in here someplace oh this is going to be good times the funny thing is i have three of them lying around my apartment okay i think i found it there we go i also found more boards so here's the multimeter i'm going to tack this down so it doesn't slide around on us and essentially what we're trying to find out is the power so what i need is a jumper pin because i'm not going to touch the board directly let me power that up and of course my jumpers are in the other room so the reason that i'm doing this is so that i don't accidentally touch something that's a power lead to the wrong thing we know this is ground electrically so i'm gonna attach this here and then i'm going to put this down so that we can actually measure it right there and then i'm going to take the actual wiring for here and i'm going to put this on ground which is right here this is the ground plane to the board and this here so that reads zero so we can guess that that's ground so we'll pick it up we'll move it over to the next pin we'll try this again that says half a volt let me just double check to make sure i'm not set on the wrong thing here okay let's jump over one more that says five volts so that's probably the power pin so the one in the middle might be signal and then the one on the end is ground so we essentially have this connected correctly so for some reason it might be that i need to go into it through here which i don't want to do right now but we could try a different one or the pins aren't mapped correctly for the software in which case that might be another reason why i didn't do a tutorial on this so that's that board for now i don't want to mess with it too much because you might see smoke rising out of it if i uh get it wrong and this board i think retailed for like 120 but seeing how it's 8-bit i figured it wasn't worth doing also who can buy a 128 dollar board and really enjoy it if it blows up on them so let's try a different board i got a bunch if you want to call something out that i haven't done that i might have in my stock i'll try that let me check on the chat because i've been looking at this for way too long uh let's see what board is that rearm no it's a 8-bit board so it's not a re-arm uh let's see it's getting kind of crowded in here so let's see if i can grab it let's see connect for the end stop should be in the board yeah it should be but i don't want to experiment too much without damaging the board i have to take a closer look but i just showed you my technique for checking it before i actually burn it it's a really stout board i don't suggest buying it unless you're uh into that it does between 12 and i believe 24 volts but is rated for up to what is it 30 volts which means probably 28 so here's another board that i don't think well i may have done a tutorial on this this is the s6 this one you actually have to load through the display it's really weird configuration so let's give that a try essentially this might be 32-bit as well but let me get some of this material off the actual workbench for the moment so i don't accidentally cook something so to look at this board it's got a jumper located right here and it says different power levels being 5 or usb 5 bolts 5 volt and then direct power dc something but we need to know what type of board it is and there's a little bit of hair on there or something let me see if i can pick that off before i start okay so we need to know what that is so the camera might go out because they're approaching the first half hour so it's an stm32f446 so first thing i'm going to do is i'm going to try and power it now the jumper position might not be in the default position so let's give this a try so it's powering the led which means that voltage might be traveling in so let me move the jumper over to the other two pins see if we have connectivity this way so that's direct power so it's not going to power up so essentially we're able to power this but not see it so this may include using a display in this case to load the actual firmware but let's check on the computer to see what it shows so if we go over to pronterface we can try and connect but we don't know what it is so we're gonna have to go over to the desktop for a second and type device manager bring this up and we're gonna check the com ports we don't have a com port so it's not working in that respect so it might be that we need to power it so i'm going to try doing it with 16 bolts or excuse me 12 volts so what i need to do is first determine where the power is with the writing on the board so i'm going to unplug this for a second i'm going to look at the board see if there's any writing on it apparently there's a power in and i marked it with red and unmarked so i'm going to try 16 volt or 12 volt so i'll wake up in a moment let me just find a screwdriver maybe a screwdriver that fits i'm gonna unscrew these and then of course i put feral connectors on here to prevent frayed wires from frying the system it's always good practice i think i've made a couple of tutorials on how to actually ferrel it but i can also show you guys so i'm going to tack this board down before i power it because i don't want it to slide around so i'm using a non-conductive putty essentially what this does is keeps the board from sliding everywhere and it has no way to carry electricity between stuff or voltage so i'm going to plug this in and then i'm going to plug in the power as soon as i locate the cord and so you don't want to touch the board after you power this up let me make sure i got the cords right now if we hear a ding it means it connected so far i don't hear anything it might be because of the jumper and of course you can't see what i'm talking about sorry about that so i powered up the board and we're not seeing anything so i'm going to power it down i'm going to take this out i'm going to move this jumper over to dc i don't know if this is correct because i haven't used this board in a while i'm gonna plug this back in and then i'm gonna power or energize the board and then i guess we'll check the computer to see if it shows up so we got nothing so it might be that it's not loaded with firmware so i'm going to power this down and we're going to try and load it with firmware i believe you have to do it through the display which makes this fun so i'm going to see if i can do it off a common display first there might be a special one i forgot so here's the display i'll show you on the screen so i'm going to try this display i'm essentially going to match up what these are now there's no way to really mess this up although it might be messed up already so i'm going to connect exp1 exp2 i'm then going to connect it over here now if i get this wrong it won't power the display but it could also have different pins in which case it won't power the display so i'm going to do this via usb power so it's not working yet so we'll reverse these two connectors we'll do it again now it might be a broken display too because it probably dropped it the other day so it's not powering so i'm going to disconnect this i'm going to grab a different one so this is similar in type essentially it's the same except they wire it slightly different possibly you can see that it's two boards it's already powering so i'm going to connect the other side then i'm going to disconnect this side doesn't power so i'm going to reverse this i'm just seeing if there's a difference in power there's power running off of both of these so this might take two tries to do so what we're going to do next is we're actually going to load it through a sd card pardon me so i'm going gonna place the sd card in here place this in the computer and see what we got on it excuse me so on the computer we're going to have to back out of this so i'm just going to do a control z to bring it back to its previous situation this doesn't mean anything anymore so we're going to clean it and then it's uh the board type is an s6 it's a fi sec s6 so we'll go over to source core boards.h search on [Music] s6 and we found it right here so i'm guessing it's this board right here unless there's another version on it which i don't see so this is going to be a 32-bit board because we know from the chip so i'm going to copy that go up here it says stm32 is the type but down here it says stm32f446 so let's go over to configuration.h we're going to paste our environment we're going to change this to negative one and then we're going to try and build it and see what happens now we've already cleared out or cleaned the dot pio folder so let's uh click the check box and see what happens and it looks like it's already failing because the default environment says mega 2560 so that means go over to here you can see this needs to change so we're going to search through here for stm32f4 and we're going to search on fisec and there's going to be several so we're going to have to go through it it's probably this one right here because it says s6 so we'll go back over to platform io.ini we'll paste it here for the default environment we'll do a clean just out of good habit then we'll do the check box to build it and that issue is now gone that we saw up here so let me check on the chat real quick let's see most likely it needs a different driver uh that may be the case but we'll find out yeah the uh smart uh displays sometimes don't seem that smart but basically the original one did work as designed and then people started changing the design around and plugs okay so that's built so let's go up here to the dot pio folder we can see there's a bin so we're gonna need to right click on that and we're gonna have to say reveal in file explorer so let me get this so you can see it let me make sure you're seeing what i'm seeing okay so we're gonna send it to the f drive looks like i was doing something with a tft display earlier so i'm going to delete all of this hopefully someday that is there we go and then i'm going to go back over here i'm going to right click and i'm going to send it to the f drive this drive is moving extremely slow but you can see there's a bin file it's only 84 kilobits we might have to enable the reprap smart discount full graphics display just to make this work better so let me do that real quick so let me search on full graphics actually reprap probably i think discount okay so it's either this one or another one so reprap discount smart controller i think it's the other one which is reprap discount full graphics smart controller so i'm going to do a control and then i'm going to press the slash mark to remove the comment i'm going to rebuild this real quick and it pulled a bunch of libraries and then it failed so let's try this again usually when it's pulling a bunch of libraries it means it's building out of order when it fails right away that's why i built a second time i know they didn't seem obvious what i was doing that's why i'm kind of explaining it so this should build any second we'll go back over to that drive and whack this one by clicking delete and as you can see it's a binary so let's see what's happening over here okay it's about to pop it there we go go over here build five sec firmware right click reveal in file explorer bring it up right click send to usb drive over here so if we do this right it'll load the actual display and power on that's why i did that so let's go back over to the desktop i'm going to pop out the drive i'm going to power this down and i'm going to insert this as soon as i find out where to and then power it up and see if it works now it might be hooked up backwards which it's flashing so something's occurring so i'm giving it a second just to see now usually after about 10 seconds if nothing's happened then you know it didn't work but let's pull the power and see what happens okay so now what we can do is first i'm going to pull this drive out for a second i'm then going to set it inside of here and i want to see what the status of the drive is so i'm going to plug it back in i'm going to go over to the computer and i'm going to go to the drive and see what occurred if anything occurred so it didn't load so we know there's something wrong so i'm going to disconnect this go back over to the workbench power down and i'm going to change the order of these in case that's the issue then i'm going to place this back in and see if we can get it to load this time so it looks like nothing's happening now there is another way to load this board now as you can tell the reason that i don't like show these tutorials on certain boards is because they're difficult to load this one actually might be a different display so i'm going to disconnect this and i'm going to grab the other display so here's another display i might have to change something in firmware to do this but this is gonna get real weird real quick but now i'm kind of curious as to why it's not working easily before i give up on it okay so i've got that i need to pull this place this in here that's spring loaded that's good now the display definitely won't work in this case so now i'm going to power it down and i'm going to have to change that let me see if i can find the other display for this real quick this one might be easier to work with this one comes apart in two pieces and also might be broken so essentially this one is from like about five years ago so let's try lining these up this is exp2 this is exp1 meet the drive which i took out and put some place there it is place it in here power it up it's not powering so power this down now it could also be that i have the jumper in a different place and that definitely is not it now the buzzing is not a bad thing but it means it probably doesn't work with this board now obviously you can see the pins for power are different so it's not working so let's try this real quick this is obviously not going to make a difference because i did it on the other side it's probably going to buzz so there is another way to load this i don't want to show you guys how to do that because i don't want you guys accidentally frying your boards or setting your uh your boot sequence up where it's goofy but there's some pins in here that you're gonna have to screw around with to actually do it i think they're these and then there's like an swd set of pins but for now i think it's wise that i don't show you this because i'm gonna show you smoke rising from it if i get uh too aggressive with trying to load it without thinking about it so let me disconnect this and we'll grab a different board for now but as you can see this is probably why i didn't do a tutorial on it because the loading of it's a little difficult it's actually easy once you know how to do it and i think i actually recorded how to do it but i didn't release the tutorial because i didn't want all the other issues that are going to come with it so let's put that off to the side and grab something else that's confusing sorry i'm just looking for the other boards this one's a try gorilla this one i think is a 8-bit board as well at one point i was going to do a lot of 8-bit tutorials and then 32-bit came out so i kind of abandoned them so it's a try gorilla 1.1 there's no real writing on the back except for the actual breakouts for the uh steppers you can see that they're 1b 1a 2a 2b so let's tack this down i just want to see if we can power it i'm going to have to turn it actually inverted because i just want to work from the other direction also has a different power supply which i thought was kind of safer but also not so cool because you have to actually go find a power supply for it so this might not power the same way i might have to find a barrel connector to do it so let's try power on it real quick so it's powering up right away so that's good let me check on the chat because obviously i've gone off on a tangent on that last board yeah i probably have to recon compile for the correct display which is probably the rep rap on the previous one but i might go back to it i just didn't want to waste too much time on it so let's go back over to vs code for a second or the desktop first thing we're going to do is check to see if we can see it so it looks like we can't see the board but we heard a ding so we might have to figure out what's going on here so what i'm going to do is i'm going to go back over the board disconnect it for a second and then i'm going to reconnect this off camera just so you can see what's going on in device manager so i'm going to place this like so i'm going to go back over here and then i'm going to slide this in and it looks like it's probing for something and it's obviously not com port one so i'm giving a little bit too much out about my system there so these are two places i would look i'm going to disconnect for a second it says there's a pci encryption decryption now i'm going to reconnect it so this is probably it right here so we'll do update driver search automatically unable to find so we can go over to update windows and do a check for updates let's see apparently i need to do a security update but that's not what i'm interested in right now so i'm going to close this i'm going to try updating the driver one more time and this might be why i didn't do it so let's try seeing if i can power it i'm gonna have to go find a power barrel for this so this might take a second so i have a barrel connector but i'm not sure it's the right one so let's see what we got here and it's not the right one so this might be one of the reasons i did not do a tutorial on this there is a way around it but i'm not gonna desolder right now so if you look at this board up close i have a couple of ways i can approach it meaning i have barrel connectors that i can test out on it but right now it's set to usb and then either dc so it's got good labeling but obviously i can't get power to it without taking this apart or creating a connector for it so this one is probably the reason that i didn't do a tutorial on it because of this so let me see if i can pick something else it's not going to be a freak show here's one i think i did this tutorial on but it's been a while this is actually 8-bit as well i believe so let me zoom in yep it says at mega 2560 i may have done like one or two tutorials on this because i obviously made a board for it so if we power it this one connects no problem so this one i think there is a tutorial series on now i have a whole nother bin of stuff that i'm gonna go here's one that i was going to do a tutorial on i believe this is 8-bit as well this one is uh was foreign to me when i first started working on it but if you look at the board you can actually see that it's got an 18 mega i believe that's 2560 it may have gotten rubbed off let me zoom out so you can see this one is an anet 3d version 1.5 i think and the reason i didn't like this board was just it was not used in any printers except for a nets and so most people didn't use it and the power on this i think is similar so this is essentially a ramps let's see if we can power it there's no power so this one is confusing at first let me look at it for a second and see if i can do it off top of my head okay so this requires power i'm not sure if it's uh 12 or 24 volts let me check on the chat because i obviously been going off in a tangent for a bit so the a net i'm gonna have to actually look up what it is so give me a second to find it here see a net 3d version 1.5 maybe yep so let me show you what it is so i don't know why they're charging a ton of money for it it's probably about a ten dollar board so let's see if we can find pinouts for it okay this looks like the board but it's showing an mks which is not the board so let me see if i can find something different power supply it's 12 volts for input power so let's go over to the workbench and i might be able to slide those in but this is going to be weird now i need to know what positive and negative is because if i hook this up you'll see sparks so it says negative positive i'm going to double check on the diagram and it looks fine so see if i can slide this in so this one requires power in order to start up i have to double check my power supply in a second so let me lock this down so it doesn't slide around and let me make sure i'm on the right power supply before i power it okay power came on so we'll try and now we have a ding so let's go over and see if we can actually load firmware for the a-net so we'll double check device manager we see that it's com port six we probably can already connect to this if we find six and you can see that it's giving strange patterns down here i'll show you why that is so we'll hit 115 200 and connect instead of a quarter million and now it says regular characters that we can read so the reason that is because we're communicating in a different baud rate we can change that in a second obviously it's saying there's some issues with it so now it's actually working there was an issue where it didn't understand there's no thermistor connected so you can see that right there for temp sensor defect so i'm going to disconnect from here then i'm going to go over to vs code and we're going to do the same thing we did before i'm going to have to go over to configuration.h back out all my changes also to platform io back out all my changes then i'm going to go up here to and let me clean these up source core boards.h search on anet and we know that it's going to be not one of those so we'll go up and it's probably this one right here but we can always check around because it's got a bunch of different a nets there's three of them apparently i'm guessing it's this one and as you can see it's got a funky board possibly so up here you can see that the chipset for this group might be slightly different so it's an 18 mega probably p or 18 mega six four four p but it says messy clone so we might be making an error here but let's see if we can do this this also might be a reason why i didn't do a tutorial on it because it was confusing so let's go over to configuration.h update the motherboard change that to zero which it is platform io we're gonna have to go to the ini we're gonna have to search for this board so let's first search for it down in here so these are 32-bit got the ramps see if there's an a net in here apparently not so i'm trying to find an old version now there's the try gorilla these are 32-bit i believe yeah ramps do uh okay so it might be that so a not version 1.0 so this is the closest i can find to the actual board it might not be the correct one because i think it said 1.5 or 1-5 but let's give it a try i mean the worst thing i can do is destroy the board which doesn't really matter to me so we're going to go over to pins and minimize it over to the ionize and it's going to be in one of these so i got to find which one it might be it's not 32-bit native ionized okay so it's probably going to be in this folder and it might be that so let's double check so if we go over to source core boards.h this is where we are this is what it says it is so if we go back over to the ini file which was up here we can see if we can find it which is probably this and see if we can build it so this is going to be messy so i'm going to hit clean and then i'm going to hit build and we'll try to build the second time in a second so we definitely have an issue with this so let's see if we can find that yeah it's going to be fun it might be the mega 2560 and i just don't know it what's that h 18 mega so it could be one of these at least you're starting to see why i don't do certain tutorials now so what i'm looking for is the actual board type so let's search on a net nothing search on a net nothing esp i think is for wi-fi not gonna be in this folder so i'm gonna try the default in a second or that but this is going to be totally confusing for a minute so let's set this back and try this again with the clean and build so apparently this is going to be good times so there might be a clue in here obviously the clue is it's not building but the actual processor that i need to use is outlined right here under this group but then it says it's a messy clone so maybe we should search on metis clone so there's messi which looks like the environment so we'll copy that go back over to platform io paste it here and try the skin so this might be the actual build so if this works then we can try loading it and one of the ways we can verify that it's working i'll show you in a second so it looks like it's writing to it that's a good thing i guess or i'm just messing it up but uh do you have the mks l 2.1 around i have an mks gen l2 i think which is almost the same board obviously there might be differences because it's got a different version number so it looks like it loaded correctly so let's test it real quick i have it set to a different speed so this might give away what's going on so let me bring up the environment so you can see the board and i'm gonna try and connect to it okay it says due to baud rate so now we'll put it to the max baud rate and now it works so we can check the actual end stops are disconnected so they're going to say triggered one of the ways you can tell if your firmware is loading other than me changing the speed is to go into vs code go to configuration.h search on endstop and for nsap settings go down here and invert the actual logic so take the false to a true and then click platform update in this case we can send it directly across i'm going to disconnect from this real quick and that way it can load the firmware without being interrupted and let me see if i can find the sk or the mks gen l2 yeah i got a gen l2 right here but let's check this real quick let's open connect and then we bring this up and we say m119 it should invert the logic which it did so that's how you know it actually loaded so i'm going to disconnect that i'm going to power down the system and i'm gonna have to pull some stuff off the desktop real quick for those that are doing super chats or paypal while i'm not looking thank you very much obviously i can't monitor the chat 100 while i'm doing this so let me pull this off and i'll bring out the mks version two and then i guess i got a couple more boards i want to do and then i'm going to take a break then we'll pick it up in another 10 minutes or so after the break reason being i think i have a patrick package from amazon arriving any second so okay that's the mks gen l2 i'll bring it up so you can see it in full screen so essentially this board see if i can dial this in a little it's got one port for an auxiliary one it's got your exp one and two i might have them backwards got your end stops then you got either end stops or run out sensors get your power i believe it's for psu power being the processor being the whole board and then you have bed power now the bed power i think is output power to the bed from the power supply then you have your hot ends one and two you have a fan port or power port i'm not sure which i have to look at the pin outs diagram the way you can tell that is if it has a signal pin so i'll bring this up in just a second i just had to find it in the browser so it's going to be probably something like mks gen l2 oh this one i can go directly to maker base so i go makerbase and github is my search that brings me to the makerbase page which i'll bring up so you can see what i'm doing and on here you can actually search repositories do mks gen and there's several different ones so it's the gen l probably now there might be multiple hardwares in here so you can see there's an mks gen l version one dot or excuse me 2.1 if you're looking for your pins you can look on here and as you can see there's a fan pin right here so one of these is actually going to be a signal pin probably so you have to find where d9 is being talked about on this diagram which might not be on the diagram because you can see the other pins right here like d17 so this says d9 so d9 is probably a pin so that's how you can control your fan for this one up here you see that it's a port j14 that's not a pin that's the name of the port when they laid it out so this is just power and what you can do to make that operate differently is i forgot the configuration of this board but i think they have actual pins on the side which i'll show you right here where you can do a fan extender so if i go over the desktop for my desk the fan extender can be connected over here and i'll show you what that looks like because i know that was your question i just gotta find one real quick or you can set it for continuous power normally i could find my fan extender in two minutes apparently i don't know where i put it but i'll show you a picture of what it looks like let me just make sure i don't have it already in one of these bins okay let me uh look it up real quick here fan extender i think it's for ramps okay this is the device you can hook to it to get it to work so i'll show you over here so this is the fan extender it hooks to your pins for your servos and turns this into a two port fan that you can control trying to find a better image so it needs to be powered and then there's two fan output pins that you can use off it that's the solution i think you were looking for but i'm going to show how to load the firmware on this real quick so this one is very simple board it's an 18 mega 2560 and i'll show you how i know that if i zoom in and i move this to where you can see it you can see the chip i know there's a little bit of shadowing going on but that's how we know it so let me zoom out real quick i'm going to connect the power to see if it powers it does so we're going to go over to [Music] here being the desktop on the computer i'm going to undo my changes again with control z same thing over here and i'm gonna have to go and search on the mks and the original tutorials that i did i don't think they have the correct chipset so i was using ramps which essentially is the exact same pin outs so i'll show you how to do this again from scratch so if you go to the marlin folder source core boards.h search on mks underscore gen underscore l there's the first one right here that might be the same but it's not saying version two so let's search a little bit more because there's three references so there's a version two down here still gen l and then there's 2.1 so there's this another board for 2.1 in this case this is the board that i have the person that asked this is probably your board right here so let's go back over to configuration.h search on motherboard paste it over the ramps then go up here make sure it's set to zero which it is over here the chipset should be mega 2560 so we'll do a clean and build or clean and upload in this case which is that button with the arrow and in theory this will work by the way when you see yellow it's a warning it's not an error if you see red it's an error but usually if you rebuild sometimes they go away because they're building out a board or something so what you can see right here is that it's actually loaded the firmware so we can actually go over to platformio.ini and try and connect to it but we don't know what the port is so we have to go over to device manager it looks like we're lucky and it's still the same chipset so let's try that again now obviously i changed this back between boards so we'll do an m119 to see if it's all triggered which it is so that's how you do that board the question you were asking has to do with controller fans which i made several tutorials on but that's located in configuration advanced and then i have tutorials on the ramps where i show how to do the um [Music] what is it the fan controller so look at my uh playlist it might also be in the mks gen l version one playlist but essentially i explained the process now the firmware may have changed since i did the tutorial because marlin likes to change it but let me uh take a look at the chat real quick here so i'm gonna take a 5-10 minute break because obviously i'm starting to get somewhat hoarse talking so i'll be back in about 5-10 minutes let me set up this so you can see it count back down and then we'll try and go through some other boards that uh i may not have ever covered and you'll see the actual rationale for why obviously you've seen a couple right now it's not that i can't set them up it's that the end user has so much trouble setting them up that it's not worth it so let me set the uh start screen to be right back in a second or i'm just going to set it to start but i'm going to put 10 minutes on the clock and so i'll be back in about 10. so so so so so so so so so oh foreign so so so so foreign okay i'm gonna be coming back in two seconds okay so now let's see if we can grab a different board it's going to take me a second to find something confusing here's one it's the makerbase uh version 1.5 show you this so this is another 30 or excuse me this is an 8-bit board i think yep 18 mega 2560 that's the mcu let me lock it down in a second but let me show you uh underneath the board it's not labeled very well it's probably one of the reasons i didn't do it so let me uh lock this down see if it powers up it does so let's see if we can figure out what the setup is so i'm going to hit ctrl z again to remove all the changes so it's back to normal over here it's back to normal so simple process core source or source core boards.h now we have to find 1.5 so i think that's the board right there so i'm going to copy this go over to configuration.h paste it over the ramps leave the serial port to zero now let's double check to see what it falls under which is 18 mega 2560. over here it doesn't really say very much about it so let's give this a load let's see if it first shows up in device manager shows up as 13 so let's try and connect to it so it's not showing up over here so i'm going to right arrow backspace 13 i'm gonna assume the default speed click connect and as you can see it's not connecting at the moment so it's just hung so what we're gonna do is we're going to try and connect again real quick it's not working so we'll go back over here double check our configuration speed and we'll try and do a clean and then build and see what happens so it looks like it's building okay of course the build might fail when it tries to load so invalid handle so let's go over here we're actually gonna have to disconnect from here so i'm gonna connect to something different like com port one try this again now it's already pre-built so it should be quicker so now it's loading so there was a connection issue between pronterface which was not allowing us access to the port to actually flash it so essentially it's loading i'll show you what it looks like on the workbench real quick there's a flashing light that's occurring right here can't see it super well but it's almost done so let's go back and check and it looks like it's okay does say some weird stuff but let's try going back over to here and reconnecting to 13 if that was the number and now it's working so we know that that works we'll check the ports they're all triggered which means there's no end stop connected now we can test that real quick by doing the following disconnect here and then we gotta find the right port so i believe it's x max min x max min or y wet max min zed max min so i need to find the pin out diagram do this correctly and i'll show you what the board looks like real quick so x max min y max min zed max min so we're interested in the min i'm guessing at the moment so i need to see the actual pin out diagram so let me bring that up make sure you can see the board because apparently transitions not working at the moment so give me a second to move it over this way x max min y max min and z max min so we're gonna have to go over to the desktop i'm gonna have to pull up the actual board real quick so i'm gonna do it over here so it's mks underscore gen now it's i'm sorry maker base mks maker base so mks base 1.5 pin out so let me bring up the board real quick so you can see what i'm seeing so this is the board and this hopefully is the pin outs that is not the pin outs so we'll try this so what we're trying to find out is signal pin which is d2 ground and voltage so we want to connect to d2 and ground with our end stop connector so let's go back over to the board it's powered down so i'm going to use this and i'm going to connect to signal and ground leaving voltage empty and have the end stop over here so i'm going to reconnect this i'm then going to go over to the workbench with the actual view i'm gonna reconnect i'm gonna do m119 does say that it's triggered at the moment so we're gonna click this and do this again and it's not registering so there's something going on with this board that was confusing [Music] so let's go over to the desktop by itself bring up the board for it and we'll see if we can understand so it says x plus x minus so i might be on the wrong port so let's go over to the workbench power this down move it to this plug it back in and the reason that i probably didn't do this in a tutorial was probably because it was confusing a little so we're going to disconnect reconnect we're going to check it again and now it says open so we know that there's an end stop there so let me give you a better view now i'm going to click down on the end stop and do this command again now it says triggered so that's probably the reason i never did this tutorial it's really simple board it's just basically an mks sgnl before it was renamed so let me see if i can find another confusing board okay i'm not sure what the name of this board was so let me uh make this a little larger so looking at this board you can't tell much about it other than it looks like an mks so let's flip it over and it's a big tree tech kfb 2.0 and it's by big tree tech so essentially let me get this out of the way for safety we're going to try and power it up after we check the chip which is in the center and this is the mega 2560 as well so it should in theory power normally which it does now we can check it in pronterface see if we can connect to it but we need to check what it is and it's com port 6 again so we'll select six and connect and it connected right away so we know that works end stops are all triggered meaning they're disconnected so let's see if we can load firmware for this so if we go over to bs code i'm going to hit control z take out all the changes hopefully so let's search on motherboard you can see it's back to default this is default so we'll go over to source core boards.h and then we'll search on the board name which is kb something kfb 2.0 so we'll search on kfb 2.0 and we found it so we'll copy this then we'll go over to configuration.h paste it for the motherboard over here we've got to figure out which type it's probably going to be zero so it's probably going to be the mega 2560 still but we can double check by going over here the category is atmega2560 so we're good there so we're just gonna do a clean and then we're gonna do a build and upload which is the arrow so this is going to take a second to load i'll check on the chat while this is going on as soon as i can find the chat there we go so this has an issue loading so it's saying that there's an issue because it can't connect with the serial port and the reason is because if we go over to here we got a disconnect then we got to go back over to here and then upload again and it should be quicker because it's already pre-built so you can see that it's loading right now so essentially the whole premise behind doing this stream is to show you different ways to troubleshoot certain things obviously there's certain things i can't troubleshoot on the fly very quick but over here if we go to the bench we can see that we have our end stops for right here and they do a strange coloring obviously i didn't tack this board down but what we can do is find the pin out diagram for this and the way that we do it would be to go over to hang on let me see if i can find it real quick tree text github page and go to repositories search on kfb and doesn't look like they show it let me see if i'm checking the name correctly kfb 2.0 so it's not showing up there so they may not have built a repository for this so we'd have to go and check for it so let me search on [Music] kf b 2.0 i think it is pin outs okay let me bring that over so you can see it so here is possible pin outs now they're showing them on the back of the board so you can see the pins right here these are probably the end stops if i can get this to stay up so if you flip the board over you can see if it says a1 that's probably not it but let's see if it's on the back of the board again so let me bring the display up so you can see it so on the back of the board i know it's kind of hard to see but you can see that there's actual markings on it so this one you might be able to decipher what's what so i believe that says e2 but i have to look closely actually it says d2 so if we rotate it over we'll know that it's in this section someplace so earlier i showed you a way to check it with actual ground voltage but grounds in the center voltage is going to be and let me rotate it so i believe the signal pin is going to be on this side but you can check that with the multimeter i'm not going to hook it up right now because i don't want to smoke the board by accident because it looks like it's out of order but essentially that's your x minimum right here and you can also check the pins file so if you go over to the desktop and you bring up the actual pins file for this which is going to be called kfb so it's going to be under pins and then it's going to be under probably let's try ramps see if there's a kfb in here there is so this is saying that it's using pins dot ramps this include file which means that it's tacking on another file to it and so the file you need to look for is going to be down here and these are your pins so you can see what they align the pins to they basically copied the ramps configuration so your x minimum is probably going to be that which is your pin three so that's that board and how it's set up so let me go back over to the workbench and try a different board that's going to be confusing here's the lurge i think this one was very confusing for the end user i believe it's also a 8-bit board but it says arm on it so i'm guessing 32-bit so as you can see it says stm32f407 so it's 32-bit it's got jumpers on the board obviously so let me zoom out so on this board we've got a little connector here i don't see where the usb connects so this board might be slightly confusing because it needs a display so let me uh peek around the board because i don't think it's got wi-fi it's got a strange power connector which is probably another reason i didn't make a tutorial out of it so there might be a chip that goes above here let me see what else was in the package okay this had a display with it so the display looked incomplete i think it's a standalone system that you have to load via the sd card and it comes with the ribbon cable to connect these two so the way to load this would be to power it like normal and the normal powering of it is a connector that's kind of strange so let me take a look at this so there was a jack that connects to this unfortunately i'm not going to set this one up because it's going to be kind of difficult to do right now without rewiring a power supply but it connects through here and then this is run to your power supply so you're gonna load a firmware.bin on this one and i'll show you how to build it actually real quick but the actual hookup involves me doing some stuff i don't want to do during a stream because i might make a mistake so let's go over here and i'll show you how to do this real quick so i'm going to hit ctrl z to remove all my changes over here we don't need this for the moment this is probably going to change so let's go back and set this up so if i minimize pins and then i go to configuration for core under source boards that h search on lurge might be spelling it completely wrong i've got to look at the board it's l e r d g e and so it's probably one of these boards so there's a different version for each so i gotta look at it again flip it over and i'll show you what i'm seeing so underneath here you can see that it's designed by lurge and then it's got lurge dash x version 1.0.6 so let me take this off for a second so what we're going to do is we're going to do that in here so it's probably this we can double check the chip because it says stm32f407 so we just checked that a second ago and it does say 407 so we're good there so we're going to copy this one i'm going to minimize core source go to configuration.h find your board paste it here we're gonna copy lurge and i'll show you why in a second go to the ini for platform io we're going to find the stm32 and you're not seeing what i'm doing so give me a second to bring it back so essentially what i just did was i went to source core boards.h searched on lurge found it right here copied it then i went to configuration.h pasted it over the ramps we're going to change this to negative one because hopefully we have a usb to communicate with which we don't but it's just good habit then we're going to go over to here and fix this so i have to minimize the core and source find it here search on lurge excuse me it says large common it's got the right chipset so we're going to copy this one initially hopefully this works there might be a lurge x which is probably better so we'll copy that and then there is a different type for each but we're just going to be building it locally so it's going to be one of these choices probably so let's go over to platform io paste it here do a clean [Music] and then we're going to do the checkbox for build and hopefully this will build and then this one you're going to drop on a usb sd drive for the sd card and then drop in and power it up and it should load but it looks like there's some issues with this build so let's see if we can figure out what they are so it's saying something about serial which means that it's possibly an issue so let's click rebuild and i'll show you what the issue probably is and it's probably this but if it does build that might mean that it's building out of order which it's not so we'll do a clean and we'll try and do this again there may be a specific thing we need to do with serial ports on this one so this might be an error in the actual way to do this so let's go back and check here let's try large common do a clean and a build and that's worse so let's try flash drive so that looks like it's working let me check on the chat in a second now it's not working so this one's going to involve a lot of troubleshooting so i'll show you how it initially goes find the very first error that's in red apparently it's a ways up then you're gonna hit control and click on it so hal is hardware abstraction layer so there's something going on here and it's about serial port so let's change the serial port to negative one try building it again but now you're starting to see the reason why i don't do these certain tutorials i just leave them out obviously i can figure them out eventually but they're a mess so this one will probably have i have to go look up the wiki for it so essentially that's where the error is occurring it doesn't know something about the platform hardware and we're starting to get deep into the code on this one so let me see if there's an easier way to do this so let's look at the chip on the board again so apparently that's not giving us enough information but it does say be so it's probably that but they all fall under that category large s is a different version i believe so the only two choices we have probably lurge x and then large x with usb now another thing is there may be an error in this and the reason that there is an error in this and no one knows about it is because no one uses this board it comes pre-loaded so i'm gonna try lurge common again and if it doesn't work i'm going to give up on this for now or allurge s let's try that or lurge x let's try this so clean and build and it failed so essentially there's some kind of issue having to do with cereal obviously to jump into this deeper it's going to get fun so it's always the first error but then if that doesn't tell you anything go to the second one but these are all linked together so if you hold over this and you hit control and click it brings you to what a possible setting it might be but we're getting deep down into the code and i don't want you guys to be confused or make mistakes so i'm trying to avoid showing you any of this but that would be a question that you'd have to ask on marlin's website it's probably the best place to get an answer telling him it doesn't work but that's probably why i didn't cover this board it also might need to be powered and it might need to be connected i might have a cable for this but i really don't feel like trying it so i'm going to put this one back away i think at one time i was able to do it it actually comes with a power cord which is hilarious meaning a usb serial cable so and it comes with a little stylus which apparently makes it out of date [Applause] let's see what else i have for boards here i thought i had a ramps 1.0 someplace or not a ramps 1.0 a uh it's probably in the other room let me see if i can go grab that there's uh two different types of uh ramps that'll be interesting let me see how busy we are in the chat hey patrick how's it going okay let me see if i can find the uh 32-bit arm okay here's two interesting ones so this is the dua and this is the rearm version so these are 32-bit boards let me show you what they look like this one might be kind of confusing hopefully you can see what i'm talking about so if i zoom in this one's got a confusing one saying 18 mega well it's an 18 ml and then it's saying that it's a sam 32x 8e this is a 32-bit chip so the connector for this one is kind of strange and i might need to find one for it give me a second to see if i have it on hand okay i do have a connector i'm gonna have to bolt this down on the board with a little bit of putty and this takes a ramps board usually it's the newer boards but it's got the same pin outs so essentially we can try and load directly to it so let me lock that down and zoom out so you can see so here's the duo board and the board that usually goes into it is going to look similar to this but not the same but essentially i'm going to show you how to load it so let me plug this in and see if it actually works i don't think i've done this in a long time so essentially if we go over to here and i remove all my changes again remove all my changes here again close these hardware extraction layer stuff so for this one you're gonna have to do the same process that i showed you before so let me minimize some stuff here real quick okay so source core boards.h then it's going to be dua i think so it's going to be your ramps so control f ramps now gets fun because we got to find it so i might have to search on dua so there's bamsdua there's 21 references so so here it is right here so that's the board type probably efb is extruder fan bed that's the ramps configuration so we're going to copy that go to configuration.h paste it now i think we have to change this to negative one but i could be wrong it might be zero and then we have to find the dua up in here so if we go into this folder there's a dua now we gotta find the ramps version of it which i don't think we're gonna find so my guess is it's that this i used to do in the actual ide for arduino but it's been forever in a day since i've done a tutorial on it so let's see if this works this is a different ide so it's going to be different so i'm going to do a clean then i'm going to do a check mark just to see if i can build it so it's pulling down something for the build environment possibly that's what this little thing is right here now it's uh rebuilding possibly it might be hung which case you can click this again but it's in the middle of something so we'll stick with it this might take a while there it goes it's doing a download automatically via platform io for the uh setup for this and hopefully it won't crash when it's building so that's why you're seeing this adrino framework means i've never actually built it in this environment okay now it's unpacking it automatically and now it's gonna probably start to build it and it's got issues so find the very first issue okay it says something about the dot pio folder and do a usb so if we go over here there might be some issues inside this folder so we'll do a clean and hopefully it won't take as long then we'll try and build it again and if it fails again then it's possibly a setting with the default environment no it looks like it built so you had to build a couple times because something's building out of order but we now have an actual file for this that we can load which is right here or we could try and upload it to the actual board and see if it works this one might do it looks like it is so that's essentially how you load that board but i might be connected to the wrong port so let's check that real quick because there's two on this so disconnect this connected over here obviously there's no usb drive on this one the reason i probably stopped doing tutorials on this one was it just was not stable so let's try this again yeah so this board might be blown i'm not sure or i'm setting it up wrong i have to actually research which port i'm connected to but i think one of the two is uh specific for loading on this so let's double check the environment real quick and see if i got that right so we've got usb we've got dua so let's try dua so i'll show you what i just did i essentially went over to here and i'm scanning through here for whoop it's not on the right thing give me a second here so i'm going with dua and i changed it over here let me just make sure i changed it right yeah so let's try cleaning and building again seeing if it builds so it looks like it's gonna possibly build let's try uploading whoop click the wrong button possibly so let's check the port again let's try this now my older tutorials i think i covered this a little and then stopped let's see upload port option so let's try changing this this might be functioning like an in-between between the 8-bit and the 32-bit so that's why i changed that number that's not the issue so this one is probably going to be best done in the ide for arduino studios but you can see why it's so much trouble to work with so i stopped covering it but there's tutorials on it where i actually did it the other way but doing these live can be fun if i don't work out all the pieces before i start so last board that i'm gonna do today i guess is gonna be the rearm it's a little dusty so let me see if i can clean it okay this is a 32-bit board again let me zoom in on this so you can see the chip so it's an lpc 1768 now you might start to see a pattern of what i'm doing i'm just showing you how to analyze what you're working with also give you an understanding why i don't work with certain stuff anymore because it might be confusing to people but this one we probably can get away with doing so i need to find the port for this for usb give me a second to see if i have that cable [Music] well looks like i don't have the cable for it on hand because i put it away unless it's over here nope nope okay well i'll show you how to build it real quick but this one you're gonna do like the newer boards for the skr where you're gonna load it through here and then power it the power is actually going to be either through here usb or the board on top and you can't see what i'm talking about sorry to load it you can do it through the drive down here through the barrel connector over here or the usb power but this one should be simple but let's see if we can find it so this one we're going to have to go over to the hang on let me bring it up we're here we're going to go to source core words.h it's not the dua it's the lpc so let's search on lpc 1768. here is probably the board because it says rearm and we're in the category so copy that change the board type this one's probably going to be negative one and then over here it's going to be lpc1769 and that's only because i haven't memorized but i'll show you how i know so you're gonna find the lpc17x and you only have a couple of options being 1768 and 1769 so we're going to do a clean then we're gonna do a build and for those that are uh tipping and i can't see it right now thank you very much i'll check on the chat in a second yeah it's kind of early there i guess you're on the west coast of the uh americas okay this built already you're gonna pluck it out up here so lpc1768 then in here you're gonna find the bin file right click reveal and file explorer and that's your build but i'm getting cottonmouth guys so i think i've been at this for two and a half hours and i'm grateful that you guys all showed up but remember to like subscribe and hit that like button and anybody that's been tipping and i haven't been seeing it i am grateful it's just i can't see it in the particular mode that i'm in and uh remember there's a discord chat which i'll show you real quick if you've got questions or someone that usually has an answer in discord there's lots of conversations there's different rooms there's general open chat there's clipper there's a bl touch room there's a lot of knowledgeable people in the general chat that you can find that can answer questions granted we've been talking about drones a little bit inside of general chat but there is answers in here so everyone take care have a nice day be safe get vaccinated wear a mask and i'll catch up with you later

Channel: Ed's 3d Tech

Views: 499

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Id: LG7Fc5WJrjU

Length: 148min 36sec (8916 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 21 2021