Linear rails for the Neptune 4 Plus & Max: Part 3 - Installing the Y-axis kit

everyone get back on the train next stop y AIS borrow chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga choo choo hello and welcome back to our four-part journey to install the TBS Tron 3D linear rail kits in our Neptune 4 plus and Max printers this is the third part of our journey in the first part we cleaned and lubricated the linear rails included in the kit during the second leg we installed the x-axis kit and today we'll be installing the Y AIS kit while cleaning and lubricating the linear rails needs to be the first step you take these videos are designed so the kits can be installed in any order if you haven't already prepared your linear rails I suggest you watch the first video in this series before continuing now enough with the talking let's get to modding the Y AIS linear rail kit includes two mgn 9C linear rails each with two carriages the linear rails for the Neptune 4 plus are 440 mm long and 550 mm long for the max four brackets are included in the kit there are two long brackets used to mount the linear rails to the base of the printer and two short brackets used to mount the bed plate to the linear rail carriages also included our nine bags of hardware and silicone Parts there are m4x 8 mm screws and M14 nuts used to mount the long brackets to the printer base and M3 socket head cap screws for mounting the linear rails to the brackets while our kit came with 6 mm screws newer kits are being supplied with 5 mm screws in in this video we supplied our own 5mm screws the kit includes two different methods of mounting the smaller brackets to the linear rail carriages the first uses brass standoff and m3x 6 mm Flathead screws while the second and recommended method uses custom silicone gaskets and m3x 12 mm Flathead screws the printer bed plate is attached to the small brackets with M5 by 8 mm screws and some silicone washers to install the Y AIS linear rail kit some additional supplies will be required these include 1.5 mm 2 mm 2.5 mm and 3 mm hex wrenches along with an 8 mm socket when using the brass standoff mounting option A 3/16 inch socket will also be needed while not required a pen masking tape and piece of paper will make mounting the larger your brackets a little easier a small pair of pliers will make reassembling the printer bed easier calipers or a ruler are needed for positioning the larger brackets and four 3D printed plastic spacers will be used while mounting the bed plate to the smaller brackets a link to the stdl is available in the video's description 26 m3x 5 mm screws will be used instead of the m3x 6 mm screws including in our kit IPA and paper towels will be used to clean the printer bed in case any grease from the linear rails gets on it step one raise the x-axis Gantry as high as it will safely go step two turn off the printer step three disconnect the power cable for safety step four disconnect any network cables or Wi-Fi antennas to prevent them from getting damaged step five remove remove the LCD controller to prevent it from getting damaged step six remove the Pei build surface step seven disconnect the bed accelerometer cable being extremely careful to not damage the cable or connector do not pull in the wires otherwise you might break them instead carefully use your fingernails to work the cable free by pulling on the edge of the connector step eight remove the adjustment knobs holding down on the screws to prevent them from spinning be very careful to avoid the accelerometer Cable in the back left step nine remove the center two bed screws using a 2.5 mm hex wrench if needed push down slightly on the bed to help remove the screws step 10 carefully lift up and move the heated bed to the side or back of the printer Step 11 remove the six Springs and two fixed standoffs putting them aside for later step 12 disconnect the Y AIS belt by removing it two screws in the belt bracket with a 2.5 mm hex wrench Step 13 remove the back plate using a 2mm hex wrench for the top screws and a 3mm hex wrench for the side screws step 14 remove the the base plate from the printer step 15 remove the Palm wheel Hardware from the base plate using an 8 mm socket and a 3mm hex wrench the Palm wheel Hardware will no longer be needed step 16 install 14 M14 nuts and 14 M4 by 8 mm button head screws in the longer brackets the t- nut should be on the the outside of the brackets it need to remain very loose to ensure they were slide into the printer base step 17 install the long brackets into the Extrusion on top of the base of the printer if needed carefully rotate the screws so the t- nuts will fit in the center groove of the Extrusion step 18 position and secure the long brackets using calipers and a 2.5 mm hex r the brackets need to be positioned 23 mm from the back of the printer for the plus and 25 mm for the max hold the brackets down with one hand while tightening with the other to prevent the brackets from moving step 19 using masking tape in a pen Mark the mounting holes in the brackets use a piece of paper to prevent the masking tape from damaging the printer's information sticker these markings will make installing the linear rails easier step 20 install the linear rails using 26 m3x 5 mm socket head cap screws and a 2.5 mm hex wrench some early versions of this linear rail kit included m3x 6 mm socket head cap screws if your kit includes these it's recommended to replace them with m3x 5 mm screws when tightening the screws ensure they remain very loose as the rails will be aligned in a later step remove the tape when done step 21 attach small brackets option A install 16 brass standoffs using a 3/16 in socket Mount the small brackets to the standoffs using 16 m3x 6 mm Flathead screws and a 2mm hex wrench ensure the screws are tightened uniformly so no twisting forces are applied to the carriages otherwise they may bind dur travel option b this is the recommended mounting method since it tends to result in smoother linear rail Carriage travel Place one Thin and two thick silicone gaskets on each of the linear rail carriages next place the small brackets on top of the silicone gaskets and secure with 16 m3x 12 mm Flathead screws and a 2.5 mm hex wrench step 22 Place six silicone washers over the holes in the small brackets step 23 place the base plate onto the silicone washers ensuring the mounting Hol is align and the accelerometer is facing down and is to the back left of the printer step 24 insert a 3D printed standoff into each of the four larger base plate mounting holes which used to be used for the Ecentric nuts these optional standoffs help to ensure the base plate is properly aligned step 25 tighten down the base plate with six M5 x 10 mm button head screws and a 3mm hex wrench step 26 tightening down the linear rails using a 2.5 mm hex wrench slowly move the base plate back back and forth several times to help ensure the linear rails are aligned in parallel if they are not the carriages could bind in the grade print quality while sliding the base plate make sure carriages do not come off the ends of the Rails step 27 reattach the Y AIS belt using the two previously removed m4x 10 mm button head screws and a 2.5 mm hex wrench step 28 reattach the back plate using the two previously removed m3x 14 mm button head screws with a 2mm hex wrench and the two previously removed M5 by 8 mm button head screws with a 3mm hex wrench step 29 position the two previously removed metal standoffs on the base plate ensuring they are aligned with the screw mounting holes step 30 reinstall the heated bed using 1.5 mm and 2 mm hex wrenches to align and keep the heated bed in place take care to not damage the heated bed's insulation step 31 reinstall the previously removed adjustment screws and springs a small pair of pliers can be helpful if you wanted to switch the silicone spacers now would be a good time to do it step 32 reinstall the previously removed adjustment knobs using a ruler in a 2.5 mm hex wrench can make this task easier when installing the knobs ensure the text is facing up and the two smaller knobs are installed in the middle of the bed step 33 reinstall the two previously removed and m4x 20 mm Flathead screws in the center of the heat bed using a 2.5 mm hex wrench pushing down slightly to fully tighten the screws step 34 clean the heated bed with IPA and paper towels just in case some Grease made it onto the top surface step 35 reinstall the Pei build surface step 36 reattach the bed accelerometer cable making sure to only push on the connector and not on the wires step 37 reconnect the LCD controller step 38 reconnect a network cable or Wi-Fi antenna step 39 reconnect power well that's that's the end of the Third Leg of our journey today we installed the yaxis linear rail kit from TBS Tron 3D in previously we cleaned and lubricated our rails plus installed the x-axis kit if you've encountered any problems or have any questions please let us know in the comments and we'll do our best to help you out we really hope you'll join us again so we can finish this adventure by installing the z-axis kit before you go if you haven't already Please Subscribe and like this video so you can be the first to learn about our future videos printer modifications and enhancments the bed leveler 5000 thanks for watching

Channel: S&M Makers

Views: 2,615

Keywords: y axis linear rail, linear rail upgrade, do linear rails improve print quality, cheap linear rails, 3d printer linear rail, pom wheels vs linear rails, linear guide upgrade, linear rail test, linear rails vs pom wheels, elegoo, elegoo neptune, x axis linear rail, z axis linear rail, POM wheel, POM wheel dust, TBStron3D, fix linear rails, clean linear rails, prepare linear rails, elegoo neptune 4, neptune 4, elegoo neptune 4 plus, elegoo neptune 4 max, neptune 4 max

Id: IUTGgOlneZ8

Length: 13min 44sec (824 seconds)

Published: Thu Jan 11 2024