In this video, we'll be exploring
seven lesser known, unique 3D printer filaments for you to try out. So whether you're a relative beginner
or a veteran 3D printing enthusiast, stay tuned because I can guarantee
that you'll discover something new. Let's get after it. Recently I was overwhelmed by the viral
success of my advanced filaments video, the second in my series of videos
teaching you about all the different types of filament, what they're
good for, and what to watch out for. If you haven't already seen both
of those videos, you can click up here to open a playlist in a new
tab and check those out, then come back here, or watch this one first. Do whatever you want, I'm not your dad. The format goes like this: We'll learn
about the material characteristics of each filament, the strengths and weaknesses
of printing with it, its printability on consumer-grade 3D printers, and
how it compares to other filaments. Then once we understand those elements
of each filament, we'll look at some of the ideal use scenarios and examples
so that you have a better understanding of exactly what you can and should be
printing with each of these filaments. Oh, and by the way, let me take a
moment to quickly thank Fillamentum, Rav Meimad, and Filamentech for
providing these filaments for free or heavily discounted so that I
could make this video for all of you. I'll put links in the description
below so you can check them out, especially if you're here in Israel. Here we go! To kick us off, let's talk
about Polyether Block Amide. Amide, amide, amide? Commonly known as PEBA. You may have never even heard of it,
I certainly hadn't before I began researching this video, but this filament
is a hidden gem in the world of 3D printing, offering a remarkable blend of
flexibility, strength, and durability. PEBA stands out for its exceptional
flexibility and elasticity, making it akin to rubber in its physical properties. It exhibits high boasts excellent chemical
resistance, which is not commonly found in more popular filaments like PLA or ABS. Now, one of the key features of
PEBA is its ability to return to its original shape after bending
or stretching, showcasing really superior elastomeric properties. But, what makes it different from a
lot of other flexible filaments, and which I'll cover in the comparison
section, is its energy return. We'll come back to that in a second. Now, the major, major strength of
PEBA lies in, again, its flexibility and durability, which opens up
opportunities for printing parts that require significant bending or
stretching or abuse without damage. It also excels in energy return, a
unique property that, again, we'll cover it in just a second when
we compare it to other filaments. Additionally, unlike pretty much any
other filament that I've come across, PEBA can maintain its mechanical
properties in extremely hot or extremely cold temperatures, even as
low as negative 60 degrees Celsius. As for weaknesses, PEBA is, like many
flexible filaments, quite hygroscopic, which can be a huge pain to deal
with, and you probably want to print it directly from a filament dryer. Additionally, PEBA's somewhat niche
application range means that it might not be as widely used or available
as more general purpose filaments, so it's not only more costly, but you're
also not likely to find ready-made profiles for it in your slicer. Which leads us to printability. Like all flexible filaments, PEBA
can be a bit of a pain if there is play in your extruder or if you don't
have a direct drive extruder setup. And like all flexible filaments,
you will need to slow things down to print it properly. You're probably gonna have the most
success printing it at 230 to 250 degrees C and a bed temperature
of 70 to 90 degrees Celsius. Some brands do recommend using
a heated chamber, but I found that it's not strictly necessary. Honestly, though, printing this stuff was
pretty easy, and I was actually shocked that my very first print turned out
beautifully with no issues whatsoever. PEBA is more flexible than TPU
(Thermoplastic Polyurethane), another popular flexible filament that we covered
in the first video in this series. But it does offer better energy
return and abrasion resistance. In layman's terms, this means that
you not only get more durability, but also more bounce for the ounce. Sorry, I just had to. But to demonstrate that, I printed
out solid infill balls of TPU, PEBA, and Chinchilla, which we're going
to be covering in just a minute, and then I swung them from the
same height against a hard surface. And yes, it hurt like hell to waste
this much of such an expensive filament for a one-time test, so if
you appreciate the video, please do take a moment to like and subscribe. Anyways, let's take a look at the results. Pretty cool, right? Whereas, TPU tends to become
extremely solid and almost doesn't feel flexible at all once you have a
certain number of layers or thickness. PEBA and also Chinchilla will retain
their squishiness even when they are thick or completely solid. But at 70 Euros for a 500 gram spool,
This stuff is extremely pricey, and it's best reserved for applications where its
properties are really, really needed. So, let's talk about those. PEBA is, of course, ideal for applications
that demand high flexibility, durability, you get the idea, I've talked about this. It's perfect for printing parts like
gaskets, tubes, seals, and flexible hinges, particularly if those
parts are going to be subjected to chemicals or extreme temperatures. But because of its energy return
properties, it also really excels for creating wearable items or
sports equipment and specialized tools that need to withstand
repeated flexing and stretching. The best example of this, in my
mind, is a shoe or even a shoe sole, which needs to have great energy
return, superior flexibility, and of course, abrasion resistance. It's also why in the medical field,
PEBA is used for printing things like custom orthopedic insoles or
other flexible medical devices. By the way, I've actually been toying
with the idea of trying to design my own custom-barefoot-style shoes and then
printing them out using PEBA, so let me know in the comments below if that's
a video that you'd be interested in watching because this stuff isn't cheap. Up next, let's look at PC-CF, or
Polycarbonate Carbon Fiber, which you guys overwhelmingly responded was missing from
my previous video on advanced filaments. PC-CF filament combines the incredible
strength and heat resistance of polycarbonate with the rigidity
and durability of a carbon fiber composite, making it an exceptional
choice for demanding applications. PC-CF filament is renowned for its
high strength-to-weight ratio, thanks to the carbon fiber reinforcement. Polycarbonate, as you may already know
if you watched the previous video, is incredibly strong all by itself, but by
adding in that carbon fiber, we can not only enhance its structural integrity,
but also reduce the overall weight of the printed part because carbon fiber is less
heavy than just having pure polycarbonate. Like all polycarbonate, it does exhibit
excellent thermal resistance and maintains its properties under a wide
range of temperatures, but it exceeds standard polycarbonate due to the
addition of carbon fibers, which make it superior to many of the standard
filaments in terms of heat resistance. No surprises there. Now, the primary strength of PC-CF
lies in, again, its robustness and its heat resistance, which makes it suitable for parts
that will be exposed to very high temperatures or mechanical stresses. However, the rigidity of PC-CF can
be a drawback for any application which requires even a little bit of
flexibility or impact resistance. This stuff is very, very rigid and
as with all filaments, increased rigidity always comes at the price
or cost of impact resistance. Finally, the abrasive nature of carbon
fibers, as you may know, can lead to increased wear on the printer's nozzle,
which does require special considerations like a hardened steel nozzle. And of course, there's the price. PC-CF routinely goes for $80 to $150
bucks a kilo, so don't waste that on something that would be just as
good in another, cheaper filament. Now let's compare this filament. Compared to standard PC, PC-CF does offer
that enhanced stiffness and dimensional stability due to the carbon fiber content. And given how prone to warping
polycarbonate is, that's a welcome improvement here. But what about comparing it to carbon
fiber nylon or another really, really popular carbon fiber composite? Well, I like to think of it this
way: Both of them have a lot of the same characteristics, but with PC-CF,
you're trading a little bit of that durability and impact resistance for
increased rigidity and heat resistance. Now that is to say that PC-CF is going
to be more rigid and better in high-heat situations, but less shock absorbent. Printing with PC-CF comes with
its own set of challenges. As far as temperature settings,
it requires higher extrusion temperatures, typically around 260 to
280 C, and a heated bed temperature of 90 to 110, which is going to
rule out some lower cost printers. A heated chamber is also highly
recommended to prevent warping and to ensure dimensional accuracy,
especially for larger prints. So, this rules out even more of
those lower end consumer 3D printers. Now due to the abrasive nature of carbon
fibers, a hardened steel nozzle is absolutely necessary to avoid rapid wear. Again, no surprises there. And similar to standard PC, PC-CF
is hygroscopic and it should be stored in a dry environment and if
possible, printed directly from your filament dryer to maintain quality. PC-CF is ideal for functional parts
that require high strength and rigidity, such as aerospace components,
automotive parts, and mechanical gears. It also is well suited for prototyping
functional parts that will be subjected to high temperatures or mechanical loads. take a closer at Chinchilla filament,
a TPE or Thermoplastic Elastomer-based material produced by Ninjatek, though
most of what I say here will also apply to other brands of TPE as well. This particular filament by Ninjatek
is notable for its 75A shore hardness, indicating a super high degree of
flexibility and even elasticity. Chinchilla filament stands out with
its remarkable flexibility and soft touch feel, making it ideal for prints
requiring a soft, rubber-like texture. And its 75A shore hardness means
that it's much softer and much more flexible than many other
TPE or, of course, TPU filaments. This filament is designed to be
as stretchy and compressible as possible, with really excellent
durability and resistance to abrasion. Holding it in your hand, you really
can't help but be shocked at just how ductile and soft this stuff really is. I kind of want to print myself
a full mattress out of it. It's that nice. Now, a major strength of Chinchilla
filament is its capacity to create parts that can withstand ridiculous amounts
of bending, stretching, and compressing without losing their form or breaking. This makes it perfect for applications
needing a very soft, flexible material. Which is great because
Chinchilla brand TPE is actually rated safe for skin contact. Ari, is it comfortable? Yeah. Really comfortable? Yeah. However, its softness can actually,
of course, be a limitation for projects that require any kind of
rigidity or structural strength. If you need any kind of rigidity,
this is not the filament for the job. Also, like many flexible
filaments, it is challenging to print, or can be challenging to
print due to that elasticity. Oh, also, it's $104 Dollars a kilo. It is not super affordable, but
then again, none of the filaments on this list are bargain buys. Chinchilla is softer and more flexible
than many TPU filaments, which typically range in a shore hardness from 85A to 95A. While TPU offers a balance between
flexibility and rigidity, Chinchilla leans more towards that extreme
flexibility, making it more suitable for applications that really need
that soft, more rubber-like material. To be honest, considering how flippity
floppity this filament is, I was really expecting it to be a nightmare to print. But I threw it on my Voron 2.4 with same
settings as PEBA, and I was shocked that after some initial trouble loading it, it just kind of printed, at least
until the filament path got obstructed on the other end of the bowden tube,
at which point I cancelled it because I didn't want to waste more of this
precious filament printing benchies. Anyways, it prints great at 240 Hot-End
and 75 heated bed, nice and slow. Nothing special here if you
are used to printing flexibles. Now I don't know if this is because
the ClockWork 2 on my Voron is just a fantastic extruder, or, what. But this stuff was surprisingly
pleasant to work with. Despite the fact that it's so smooshy
you can actually see it flexing and bowing under the nozzle, the
print still turned out amazing. And I definitely want to use
this stuff way more often. Chinchilla filament is ideal for
creating objects that require that soft, flexible touch, such as grips, gaskets,
wearable items, and flexible hinges. If you've ever worked with TPU and found
that it is flexible but doesn't feel all that good on your skin, Chinchilla is the
material that you've been looking for. Its ability to absorb impacts and
resist abrasion also make it suitable for protective gear and parts that are
subject to frequent handling or movement. And because of its safety rating for
contact with skin mixed with that pleasant, almost peach skin fuzzy finish,
I'd recommend using it for things like handlebars or tool grips or anything
that is going to be touched a lot. Personally, because it's so squishy
and pleasant, I'm actually going to use it to make a foam-like cutout for
my stream deck's rugged case, just to protect the buttons and dials when I
throw it in my bag and transport it. Though, then again, considering the price,
I might just cut it out of foam too. So far, we've talked about a few
really interesting 3D printer filaments that you can print at home,
and I have plenty more coming up. But you know what you can't print at home? aluminum, or titanium, or stainless steel. You probably also don't have the
machinery to handle injection molding, sheet metal fabrication,
CNC manufacturing, or PCB production. Fortunately, you don't have to thanks
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and one of the biggest supporters of this show, so please make sure to
check them out for your next project. Alright, let's get back to the video. Up next, let's talk about
Polyvinyl Butyral, or PVB. This filament is gaining popularity
for its unique properties that offer both aesthetic and functional
benefits when used for 3D printing. PVB is known for its excellent
transparency and smooth surface finish, making it an ideal choice for prints where
clarity and aesthetics are paramount. It also boasts pretty good impact
resistance and flexibility. providing a balance between
strength and malleability. Now one of the standout features
of PBB, really the one that I think of when I think of it, is
its compatibility with easier and safer post processing techniques. You can smooth it with just
basic isopropyl alcohol, and this can significantly enhance the
final appearance of the print. Yes, you can of course smooth ABS
or ASA, but you'll need to do that with acetone or other harsh solvents,
which are both more difficult and more dangerous to breathe in. Alcohol, on the other hand, is safer
and easier to work with for vapor smoothing, though I've never had a lot
of fun vapor smoothing PVB personally. Now the main strengths of PVB include its
superior surface finish, transparency, and again, the ease of post processing. It's also pretty affordable at $25
for a 500 gram spool of Prusament. However, its flexibility might be
a drawback for applications that require structural components. PVB's sensitivity to moisture is also
another factor to consider as it requires very careful storage and handling. Also, it stinks like a combination
of chemicals and old cheese, even when you're not melting it. Compared to more common filaments like
PLA and ABS, PVB offers a smoother finish and again, better transparency. I feel like a lot of these sections
are a little redundant, sorry. While it doesn't have the high temperature
resistance of something like an ABS, it compensates with better aesthetic
qualities and less brittleness. Unlike more popular, transparent filaments
like PETG, PVB is so much easier to smooth and finish, making it much more suitable
for detailed or aesthetic projects. PVB is relatively user friendly
in terms of printability. It prints best at extruder temperatures
of about 220 to 250 with a heated bed temperature of 60 to 80 degrees Celsius. And unlike materials that require a
heated chamber, PVB can be printed on standard open consumer 3D printer. But don't let all that fool you, because
due to its hygroscopic nature, storing PVB in a dry environment or using
a filament dryer is recommended to maintain its printing quality, especially
considering that aesthetics are the main selling point of this filament. Now, PVB is particularly well suited for
projects where aesthetics are crucial. Can't emphasize that enough. This includes things like vases, where
clarity and a smooth finish are desired. Its ability to undergo alcohol
smoothing makes it a popular choice for artistic and decorative items,
as well as for prototypes that need a high quality surface finish. Personally, I almost never use PVB,
but if I do, it's really only for a vase or something that I don't
want people to know is 3D printed. Continuing our journey through
the lesser known 3D printing materials, let's now explore
PolyPropylene, commonly known as PP. This filament is renowned for its unique
combination of flexibility, chemical resistance, and durability, making it
a valuable asset in both hobbyist and industrial 3D printing applications. PP filament Gosh, that sounds funny,
is considered a flexible filament, but it's important to clarify that
its type of flexibility is very different from what you might find in
traditional flexible filaments like TPU. PolyPropylene's flexibility is
characterized by its ability to bend and flex without breaking,
rather than the kind of elastic, rubber- like stretchability of TPU. This makes PP excellent for
applications requiring parts to withstand repeated bending or
flexing motions without deforming. To better understand this, think
about a car bumper, which is often actually made of PolyPropylene
or the very similar Polyurethane. You can't pull on it and stretch it
out, but if you bump it or hit it, it will flex and then pop back into
place, thousands of times if necessary. This is called fatigue resistance
and it, along with excellent chemical resistance, is one of the key features
that differentiate PolyPropylene. Additionally, PP has a low moisture
absorption rate, enhancing its durability in various environments. At 35 Euros for a 500-gram spool, it's not
cheap, but it won't break the bank like many of the other filaments on this list. The main strength of PP again lies
in its resistance to chemicals, material fatigue, and its ability to
just retain its shape after abuse. However, these same properties can
be challenging during printing. PP's flexibility and low surface energy
make adhesion to the bed pretty tricky. Also, its semi crystalline nature can lead
to warping and shrinking during cooling. Compared to flexible filaments
like TPU, PP offers a unique balance of flexibility and chemical
resistance, though it's less elastic. At the time of this recording, I
actually haven't been able to get my hands on a roll, but I'm going to try
and do so before this video goes live. Printing with PolyPropylene requires
attention to specific details. Extrusion temperatures are typically
220 to 250, a heated bed around 80 to 100 C - all that stuff is normal. But, bed adhesion can be a particular
issue with PolyPropylene filament, so using an adhesion agent or even painter's
tape may be necessary to get it to stick. While not always necessary, an enclosure
can help maintain a stable temperature and reduce the warping I mentioned earlier. PP is ideal for parts that
need to be resistant to chemicals and regular flexing. It's perfect for creating containers,
live hinges, automotive parts, or any component that will be exposed
to harsh chemicals, or that just needs to flex without breaking. Personally, I would choose it specifically
for live hinges, though considering its ability to take abuse and bounce back,
it could also be great for printing toys, or anything that is going to
come in contact with the little ones. Now, let's shift our focus
to CPE, or Co-Polyester. In this video, I'm specifically going
to be testing and talking about the CPE HG100 by Fillamentum, and it's important
to note that different brands may have different formulations, which may in
turn behave a little bit differently. Nonetheless, CPE filament is gaining
attention for its excellent balance of properties, combining the ease of printing
with functional and aesthetic qualities. Let me elaborate. CPE is, in many ways,
quite similar to PETG. It stands out for its high impact
resistance and dimensional stability. It's less prone to warping compared to
materials like ABS, making it a more stable choice for very precise printing. It has great chemical and
heat resistance as well. Really, I like to think of
CPE as kind of like PETG+. It does everything PETG does, but better. As I mentioned, CPE is a great
filament with tons of desirable properties that make it really
superior to PETG in almost every way. At 30 Euros for 750 grams, CPE can
be more expensive than those basic filaments like PETG and ABS, but that
still makes it extremely affordable. Just keep in mind that although it is a
high performance filament, it won't match the extreme temperature resistance of
specialized materials like PEEK or ULTEM. As I mentioned, CPE is very similar
to a sort of PETG on steroids, but it is different in one major way. Unlike PETG, CPE does not absorb
moisture as much, making it even easier to store and print. And if you've seen my history
with PETG, you can understand why I like CPE a whole lot more. In fact, overall, CPE is relatively
straightforward to print with, but there are a few considerations. Temperatures are relatively normal
at 240 to 260 C, with a heated bed temperature of 70 to 85. A good bed adhesive or a PEI print
surface will seriously help with achieving just the right amount of bed
adhesion without warping or, on the other hand, sticking too much to the bed. But unlike some advanced filaments,
CPE does not require a hardened steel nozzle or an enclosed print chamber. As far as printability, again,
you can really think of CPE as pretty much PETG, but better. It really doesn't require any special
considerations, the same temperatures apply as PETG, and you might want to
use a bed adhesive to prevent it from sticking too much to your print surface. CPE is excellent for functional parts
that require durability and a pretty high degree of heat resistance, above
and beyond what PETG can offer for you. It's ideal for prototypes, mechanical
parts and containers that might face stress or chemical exposures. It's low moisture absorption also makes
it suitable for outdoor applications. Before we wrap, I want to quickly talk
about one more unique filament: NonOilen. A pretty crazy filament
developed by Fillamentum. This filament stands out for being
both environmentally friendly and food safe, and some very unexpected
characteristics, marking a significant step in sustainable 3D printing. Allow me to explain. NonOilen is a biodegradable and
compostable material aligning with eco friendly principles. It's actually derived from natural
resources, which make it a more sustainable option compared to
traditional petroleum-based filaments. Again, nothing surprising
there, PLA can stay the same. But NonOilen is one of the only
filaments I'm aware of that is actually certified for food contact. Though again, actually, I discovered
while writing this that Fillamentum's normal PLA is also rated for food contact. So that's not too too special. But NonOilen combines this safety and
natural composition with very good mechanical properties, making it suitable
for a wide variety of applications. But here's the craziest thing. Despite its eco friendliness,
NonOilen actually has a higher temperature resistance than ABS, ASA,
or even CPE, which is crazy to me. In fact, I've even been told by
the folks over at Fillamentum that it's dishwasher safe. As I mentioned, one of the main
strengths of NonOilen is its food safety and biodegradability, making
it ideal for applications where it might come into contact with food. Yes, yes, I know, 3D prints are not
food safe unless you post-process them, micro-cracks, bacteria, blah blah blah. I get it. NonOilen in also has decent
mechanical strength and durability. However, its biodegradable nature
may limit its use in long term outdoor applications or environments
where really any kind of long term material stability is required. But really, one of the biggest,
more unexpected strengths is going to be that heat resistance. NonOilen in is of course similar
to PLA, but with that incredibly high temperature resistance,
biodegradability, and food safety. Nuff said. NonOilen in requires no special
considerations for printing. It just might be a little bit tough
to get to stick to the bed, especially if you don't want to use adhesives in
order to preserve that food safety. However, if you do want your prints to
be food safe, then you do need to use special dedicated hot-ends that have
never been used for other plastics, and you'll need to do some of that
post-processing to eliminate the small cracks where bacteria can get stuck. There, are you happy food safe army? NonOilen is particularly well suited for
food-related applications like kitchen utensils, containers, and packaging. Its ability to withstand heat means
that you can even make utensils or food receptacles out of it. Its biodegradability also makes it a good
choice for disposable items or products where environmental impact is a concern. Now even if you don't want to go through
the steps of post-processing to make your print repeatably food safe, it
could be really cool for custom food containers for an event, for example. The best example I can think
of is using it for molds. For example, molding chocolate
that's going to be very hot. Though I've even heard about one
local hat maker who uses it to mold felt hats due to its ability to
withstand the temperature of steam. So there you have it, seven lesser known,
unique 3D printer filaments that you can print on your desktop 3D printer. If you've enjoyed this video or
learned something, please take a moment to like and subscribe. We actually have a huge hundred K
giveaway event coming up very soon where we'll be giving away thousands
and thousands of dollars of 3D printers, upgrades, filament, and much more. But first, we actually have to hit that
100k number, so if you want to be eligible to win, you know what to do below. Also, I want to give a huge thanks
to my YouTube members and Patreon supporters, especially our Nylon and
Peek members, Chip Cox, 2 Krazy Ketos, Amir Chen, kris miller, and Don Arledge. And if you'd like to see or hear your
name in my videos, plus gain early ad-free access to all my videos,
check the link in the description. That's all for this week, but I'll
see all of you on The Next Layer.
