Lets Get This 1945 ONAN Generator Running Pt.2

so i've gone ahead and disassembled the fuel pump all the way got the the lower kind of lever arm body the top and you know the little spring pocket there here's the rebuild kit it comes with a new diaphragm new screen which is good because the original screen for the sediment fault was missing new sediment pole gasket a new uh gasket for the the lower spring chamber there and a mounting gasket and i got all this this was 20 from this place here mark's parts and they even give you this little manual for uh for rebuilding the pump which is nice i actually bought two of these kits one to uh one to keep in stock so the the everything cleaned up pretty well so far the only issue that i have is this area where the sediment bowl or the top of the sediment bowl there's some of this uh kind of white rust or corrosion you might call it and it's it's it's on the top of this area here and then it's in the inlet fitting let me turn the light on on the camera focus on that yeah you can see it up in that area there this is the fuel inlet to the sediment bowl chamber has this kind of weird stuff growing on it just the corrosion that gets on this zinc die cast stuff so i'm going to go ahead and bead blast just that area i don't want to be blast the whole thing because i think it'll ruin the look of it it's i'm trying to keep this thing looking all original like it hasn't been disassembled so let me come back after i've cleaned that up and we'll go ahead and put this thing together okay well i'm in the process of reassembling this fuel pump here everything's been cleaned i think i mentioned that already so here's the new diaphragm looks nice and the washers and everything and the the pool rod as i call it all the lever stuff has been installed i have to tighten this nut right here to hold the diaphragm in place now the manual gives specific instructions on doing this so i'm going to clamp it in the vise lightly here that in shot yeah okay so yeah the specific instructions pertain to tightening this nut now you see there's a like a hexagonal washer right here now that that washer is not attached to anything it's just that it's just a little washer but the manual states that you need to line the diaphragm up we'll snug that little 7 16 nut by hand here the manual wants you to hold that hexagonal washer while you tighten this nut so as to i guess prevent any rotational force that's imparted on this large like cup washer from distorting the diaphragm so i'm going to try to do that that hex washer is about three-quarter i had to modify this wrench slightly to fit in this recess so we'll hold that see what i'm doing here just light on there we go i'm gonna hold that keep an eye on the holes for the diaphragm and tighten this 7 16 nut in the center here so the diaphragm can wiggle back and forth just because of the the slop in that pin down at the bottom so there's a little bit of play it's actually it needs to be to the extreme in one direction for those all the holes to line up i think i'll slack it back off a little bit let's try that again there we go all right i think that's good i don't think we need to kill make this thing killer tight okay i should mention that this surface here i inspected just to make sure that there wasn't uh any pitting or gashes or anything and i held the top and the bottom halves together to make sure they weren't warped or anything so now that that's done i think uh should we just move the camera over well let's continue on with the reassembly so the manual calls out to put on the the spring retainer or the lower cover here next before i do that i have to well this fuel pump has a priming lever so that just kind of snaps onto the snaps around the pull rod for the diaphragm just kind of spread that a little bit it sits right on there right in those grooves and you see the two little fingers pushed down on the uh the lever so that's that this may be a little bit difficult put the new diaphragm or the diaphragm gasket on yeah this is going to be a bit difficult how am i going to do this i'm going to hold it like that set the two springs got one for the diaphragm here one for the lever the manual says that on some fuel pumps these might be different springs they appear to be the same on this one i'm gonna hold that just try to feed them up and get the little cups of those springs landed on the bottom of the diaphragm pull rod and the little bump on the lever arm okay feels like i got it might be able to take a peek through here yep you can see that we got the spring on the little bump of that lever arm there that looks good so does the diaphragm spring a little tricky to do here get one of these screws started come on there we go this one does not want to start there it goes seems to work so does that okay i didn't crank down on those terribly tight everything looks good there all right the next step they want us to reinstall the check valves but the uh the check valves for the input and output we're going to forego that for right now and concentrate on putting the top housing back on which i seem to have lost where could that be no it's right here so the manual again gives specific instructions on installing this uh top the the top body of the fuel pump so what they want you to do is actuate the lever arm to bring the diaphragm level level with the bottom flange here which is going to be easier said than done there's quite a bit of spring tension there hold that level while you install the top cover and finger or install finger tight these screws so i'm going to do that now now good thing is all our holes still line up we got the alignment of the diaphragm pretty good there okay let me do this without making a fool of myself here now from what i understand they want you to do this just so that you don't stretch the diaphragm or pull it in a in a way that puts excessive tension on it i said there's quite a bit of spring tension there still looks like we're good still you can see the diaphragm move there when i move the lever so then they want you to run these down until they just touch the lock washers probably should be doing this in a crisscross motion quick crisscross pattern okay and they want you to actuate the rocker arm i call this the rocker arm releasing with a snapping with releasing with a snap this will ensure that the diaphragm will not be stretched too tightly so releasing it with a snap support the fuel pump and fully actuate the pump by hand while tightening the cover screws okay so while we actuate the fuel pump tighten the screws alternately okay go one more time around c all right they're definitely secure go ahead and install the check valves so i uh in cleaning these i went and i polished the seats here brass seats with some scotch brite a little check valve discs are like a little phenolic i can see the little ring where they have been riding on the brass seats for well since 1945 so i'm going to flip them upside down and use the side that was up against the spring down onto the down on the seats make sure i get it the right way around there we go spring down get that centered in the hole there put the nut on do the same thing with the output check valve so sounds like it's pumping air oh i can feel it too that's working very well okay oh by the way see how nice that cleaned up with the bee blaster all that corrosion's gone that just leaves the screen a new uh cork seal i gotta say that the quality of these parts of the parts of the kit is really nice that screen fits perfectly around the nub in the center and the gasket fits well got the fuel bowl here nothing like a freshly rebuilt fuel pump okay let's go put that on the engine so here's where we're at fuel pump is back on the base is bolted on it's full of oil and i've bolted the whole thing down to this uh these wooden boards here just to give it a platform to run on i've removed the top of the float bowl the carburetor and i have a little bit of gum cutter sitting in there there's a little bit of varnish at the bottom here's the top of the bowl and the float it's fairly clean i don't think i'm going to have to really go into this carburetor other than maybe just wiping the bowl out blowing a little bit of carb cleaner through this jet so uh but while that's soaking i want to turn my attention to the generator end so pull the cover of the end bell off you can see we might have had a little bit of a little bit of mice in here at some point and i want to take the end bell off remove the brushes so i can clean the slip rings and the commutator bars commutators down in there it's kind of hard to get your hand in here it's kind of a not very good access so i'm gonna leave the camera rolling let's take that end bell off shouldn't be too too much of a job you know what i should mention first what i'm gonna have to do so i said access is difficult and it is i've got to get a couple wires off of this stud or post up here and there's no way for me to get to that nut easily without rotating the whole brush rig but that's not such a big deal because under this dirt here we're looking right at it there's an arrow see that arrow and that's pointing right to a hash mark and a yellow paint mark right on the end bell frame so that's going to allow us to get the brush rig realigned when we reassemble it so i'm going to move that brush ring out of the way just to allow me to access the those two or those two studs there's one at the bottom and one at the top so if i loosen these bolts here that should allow me to yep rotate that whole assembly just throw a rack down here i painted this painted these boards and i probably should have been in such a rush to mount the generator to them let me disconnect these small leads here first we'll try to keep all these washers in one place or in their original place the brushes look like they're in pretty good shape the slip rings and the commentator don't look damaged either but i i just want to be able to clean them it's kind of like an oily residue on them so that should be it for the sides here just kind of swing this whole rig out of the way should be 3 8 for this stud up top here sorry about that we had a we had a visitor had to attend to that everything looks like everything looks to be in pretty good shape back here set those over here okay so that should be that should be everything wire wise between the end bell and the controls slash the stator so i believe that i should be able to pop these nuts off here that tighter than i thought yeah they're pretty tight of course i am using just a quarter inch ratchet so that could be giving me a false uh sense of how tight they are all right so this should just want to come right off of here too much stuff in the way here there it goes oh you know what let me lift these brushes before i break them why didn't somebody remind me that why didn't somebody remind me of that that one's not going to be broken that one's going to be okay this one needs to be lifted and these four should be lifted as well but i'm going to slide it back anyway one two three four let me pull on this one here it should want to come right off try that again there we go oh look somebody said it's okay see that says right there okay look at that bearing i could use a little bit of fresh grease i think huh sounds a little dry but yeah look at that slip rings and the commentator bars look fine go ahead and buff those up make sure there's nothing stuck between the grooves the commutator bars and uh clean all this stuff out we've got a mud dauber nest here get that out of there everything look okay up here yep all right let me get back to cleaning the generator ends about ready to go back together slip rings commentator bars are cleaned everything looks nice there so i wanted to show you the brush rig here all the brushes are almost like new but i've said before about removing these filter capacitors on an old generator before you run it and here's one that actually blew already you see that blew the lead right out of it so you got one here this is the ac filter cap and you got one here it's on it's on the reason i call it an ac filter is it's on one of the output brushes the ac output brushes then you've got this one here this is 0.5 microfarad at 200 volt dc this is a dc filter cap and this lead runs over to this stud which is i would imagine it's the well it's the positive side of the field here on the dc brushes so i'm going to go ahead and remove this one and the other one if if i was going to use this generator for something important i was going to back my house up with it or something i'd put new capacitors on there just for filtering but for display purposes for running some light bulbs and running the load bank it's not going to hurt anything without those capacitors the thing is going to work perfectly so i'm going to pull those out and put this back together and we're getting pretty close to starting it up so quite a bit of time has gone by i ran into some trouble i couldn't get any ignition spark turns out the the little switch here that selects between hand crank and electric start was not making good contact in the electric start position so is getting no dc power to the ignition circuit that's corrected now just a little bit of contact cleaner and working the switch back and forth let's check for spark again this thing does have uh does throw some lightning bolts let me turn this light off where's the button at okay good spark we got oil pressure looks like it 20 pounds of oil pressure at cranking speed that's not bad well let me keep the camera rolling i'm going to put these spark plugs in and we'll put the fuel line into some gasoline see if we can get a start out of it as high up as you'll go pretty much move you over here got my neighbor pressure washing next door so that's that noise in the background i clean these spark plugs pretty well and get gap in the 30 thousandths as per the manual got new seals for him new gaskets not gonna bother putting the shields on for that for now yeah they've been pressure washing over there all day i don't know what the heck they're cleaning i know they have an in-ground pool back there but i guess you got to clean those every year put some fresh oil in the oil bath air filter as well so it should be pretty pretty much ready to go oh you know what i gotta hook the electric choke back up i've had to take this control box apart to access the lower part of that switch so that meant kind of disconnecting all the wires that go out to the engine just to get me some slack okay done with that i'm just gonna take the fuel line here drop it in a can of gas okay let's come on over here see if that fuel pump works that light on let me turn that on there we go oh there it goes see the bowl filling it's tight right yep feels like it's filling up the bowl now it's not returning immediately okay yep all right i'm going to leave you on the tripod here move it over here we'll see if we get get some fire out of it i did turn the throttle down like i like to do just in case the uh for whatever reason it wants to run fast let's give it a start wow it's charging got good oil pressure well now that was a pretty easy start wasn't it now it's running it's running slow now of course i turn the throttle down we gotta turn that down a little bit charging hard there we go isn't that a nice sounding little generator i can't tell if that choke is opening or not i can feel the heating element warming up so it must be working and you can hear the engine rpm is slowly increasing so it sounds like the choke is working yeah as the engine speed increases the charge rates going up 30 pounds of oil pressure it's funny you can almost see a shadow right there you see that where the needle was for so long isn't that funny ah how about that let me get let me get a meter and plug it into that receptacle in the back we'll see what our voltage and frequency is oh yeah can you see that 127 volts you can't see that it's about over here 128 volts 59.7 59.8 just about 60 hertz there it is 60 hertz so it definitely was would have been running very fast if i didn't back that throttle down i mean geez that's right where it needs to be let's plug a light in i'm excited i'm gonna like i should also mention we do have coolant in the thing so don't worry there let's see there's a 300 watt light i just plugged in and the governor's not quite right you see we're down to 55 hertz 117 volts that governor needs a little bit of work but no big deal it's a first start after all give it a break jesus the first time it's probably been running who knows how long these are thermo siphon cooled so they tend to run a bit hotter than you might expect i can feel hot air blowing through the radiator up here cool air down here but isn't that thing running so nice how about that hey that governor hey i want to go through and adjust the sensitivity on that that seems kind of out of whack it shouldn't have bogged down so far throw me a 300 watt load let me take the load off of it yeah something that isn't right there come on yeah that's that seems like a governor sensitivity issue that should just be an adjustment all right well there you go we did good then seems happy let's say just just gotta treat that governor well i think that's about it for tonight come back tomorrow to this thing work on that governor and uh put it on the load bank make it through some real work all right stay tuned well i think it's about time we finally get this thing under some real load got the load bank hooked up and i've i've worked on the governor a little bit since last night or since the previous clip and i'm still not 100 percent satisfied with it it's better than it was but the responsiveness just isn't what i think it should be i ended up i put a different governor spring in here here's the original i have a feeling it's it's the spring this one is not correct but it's better than this one something about the the rate of the spring is i don't know the metallurgy must change a bit over time because it the responsiveness is is okay but it's not where it should be i even have the sensitivity adjustment turned up as sensitive as it will go as we'll see in a minute so i got my uh temp gun here so we can keep an eye on the engine temp got the spark plug shields back on so i think we're ready to uh start it up starts right up nice the engine is hot now we got 25 pounds of oil pressure and it's not that hot it's only 127 degrees no problem charging no lower voltage is a bit high that's because the no load frequency is a bit high i think i'm going to turn that down a bit before we actually get started he's also a bit of a smoker that tends to clear up once the thing gets warmed up so this may be a fairly high hour unit higher than i was initially thinking let me turn that speed down a little bit so all right we're about 61.7 hertz now again no low voltage is high man let's put some load on it then full load of 17.3 amps we got a thousand watts worth of load on it 8.7 amps 8.8 amps and we're already down to 60 hertz and that exhaust smoke clears up a little bit once it warms up no leaks around the fuel pump though that's good leaking around this bolt here got to replace that ceiling washer hey it's a nice sounding unit let's go ahead and give her a full load almost there 15.7 amps and she really fell hard there 58 that's the bottom of the range there and i know it's not for lack of engine power because i can manually open the throttle with my hand bring it right up to 60 and beyond so yeah definitely still have some lingering governor issues there let's get a bit more load on it i'm going to drop all these out and just whack 2 000 watts on it almost there there you go there's full load really falling hard let's see what the engine temperature is getting up to climb it up pretty quick remember like i said this unit is thermo siphon cooled so it relies on the natural convection of the water being heated in the cylinder or around the cylinders rising up through this pipe into the radiator and then being cooled and falling down through the radiator before it's drawn back in to the block so by their nature these types of engines tend to run a bit hot see a bit of blue haze there or definitely burn a little bit of oil again that drop in speed is a governor issue if i pull on the throttle here i can bring it right up where i want it well i'm gonna let it run under a good load for a little while maybe uh break those rings back in remember we didn't pull the pistons on this unit so we could have a couple stuck ring grooves we're definitely blowing a little bit of carbon out of the exhaust you can see it on the table here probably haven't seen a good load in a while all right we'll come back in a few minutes all right well we've been at 100 load for about 30 minutes now frequency is still low 17.4 amps oil pressure's still good let's take a look at the engine temp 196 coming out of the block about 115 coming out of the radiator that's a very good drop in temperature from the top to the bottom this core must be in good shape i'm going to cycle the load on and off a few times and bring the load back over here a bit closer you watch the operation of that governor up sun got your face there that's no load that's full load see we're nowhere near wide open throttle yeah for some reason that governor's just not bringing it back to uh back to its set point well let's drop the load off of it and we'll let it cool down i still like the generator don't get me wrong even if it has governor issues they can be solved well if you guys like this video and you want to see uh a follow-up on that governor that maybe you'll actually film that i'm curious to see if we have any kind of internal issues or if it's that spring i'll have to go to the hardware store and find a couple different uh springs try them out see if i get any improvement well that's about a wrap for now so thanks for watching

Channel: SmallEngineMechanic

Views: 60,639

Keywords: Antique, Old, Vintage, Historic, History, American, Engine, Motor, Onan, Kohler, Fairbanks Morse, Generator, Power Plant, engine, electricity, Test, Load Bank, Repair, Restore, Rebuild, Fuel Pump Repair, Caterpillar, Cummins, Detroit Diesel, John Deere, Diesel Fuel, Diesel, Gasoline, Oil, 805RoadKing, SmallEngineMechanic

Id: 3jL4t0jWnrA

Length: 52min 18sec (3138 seconds)

Published: Sun May 02 2021