Lesotho, le royaume des neiges | Routes de l'impossible

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Lesotho is a forgotten kingdom, an imperceptible piece of land on the world map. Encased within a giant who would gladly swallow it. This tiny country is an exception in Africa. Every winter it is covered with snow. There is even a ski slope. Lesotho is full of water. It supplies South Africa which is sorely lacking. This manna of money is not found not in infrastructure, of this magnificent territory. The Lesothans do not ask one thing to their king. Let him modernize the country. The road is really scary! I'm scared here there are precipices everywhere. He can lose at any time car control, and crash to the bottom of the ravine. On these roads, it doesn't matter that you be a man in a hurry, or rather patient, you do not have a choice. you have to ride slowly, if you want to live. I spend a lot of money gasoline on these roads, because i am everything time in 4x4 position. Patients suffer a lot from not to be able to get to the hospital quickly. Maybe the government will end by doing something for us. Since the time we ask him. In Lesotho, roads are so dangerous that bush taxis are still led by men. Taxi women, they, are confined to the cities. These two happy rebels have decided that had to change. Alice and Febelina are going to leave skim the tracks of their country, looking for new customers. They put all their savings in a final revision of their minibus. The brakes are dead. I managed to change the pads. If I hadn't seen the problem with the brakes, they could have had a fatal accident. In town, they have too much competition. On the other hand, in the countryside, taxis are rare. Alice and Febelina, hope double their salary. But William, a friend, is not reassured to know them alone on the slopes. They should wear a gun, like me. Of our time, these roads have become risky. These girls are easy prey and criminals know it. They must learn to use a weapon. I need a weapon, because I always travel with money on me. The bandits could try to rob me, or kidnap me. A gun is the only thing who could protect me. Only, neither Alice nor Febelina have still afford to buy one. Caution is their best weapon. And of course, family prayers. Young women hit the road dreaming of future fortune. But they forgot one detail. Unlike the city, on the slopes of Lesotho, road signs... Are rare. I am completely lost. I look on the map if i can find my way, and find the right path. Do not improvise Taxi brousse who wants. Alice and Febelina's problems, are just beginning. work in town, it was still much quieter. The road is really scary! It's not even a road. I'm scared here there are precipices everywhere. However, usually nothing scares us. It's the first time I've been there. I just want to continue on foot. These big descents scare me because even if I brake, my taxi won't stop. And it's not the brake hand that will stop us. I'm too scared to drive here. Ask someone else if you're scared! Go ahead since you're being smart! Yes, but if I take the wheel you don't want to stay in the car! Between facing the descent and pass the wheel to his girlfriend, Alice quickly made her choice. The outside temperature has do not exceed ten degrees, the old korean taxi is a real pressure cooker. I need to fill the tank of water before it overheats. We go long distances and the taxi consumes a lot of water. I may be a woman, I am capable of fix a lot of things on my taxi. I wonder what else awaits us and if we're not going to have to sleep on the road. And they still don't have found customers to transport. Again, Alice and Febellina did not taken into account an important fact. In Lesotho, many cross the country on horseback. It is the only means of transport that allows to reach the villages ignored by the tracks. This horde of riders is not on a walk, it represents justice. Hello Sir. I take it you know who I am? Yes, here we all live in peace. Nothing abnormal around here? No Sir, I didn't see anything strange. No one mistreats women? No sir, sometimes a few fights but nothing serious. We are the militia men. Here we help the police to fight crime. The police only travel by car, but in these mountains, you can only move on horseback. So these places are infested with criminals. This is why the villagers mountains need the militia. Rémaketsé and his men were engaged by the police to maintain order. They baptized themselves "The wrath of the lion". The militia has all the rights, or in any case she grants them to herself. And they are ruthless, with a certain class of thieves. What motivates me to chase cattle rustlers, it is that I raise animals myself. And it's my breeding that assures the survival of my family. Thieves are ready to do anything to not fall into our hands. And often it ends in a bloodbath. Making examples, according to Rémaketsé, it would be the only way to get away cattle rustlers. But there is a flip side to terror. People don't really like them. It's really scary when you arrive like a horde in the village. We wonder what the problem is. Everything is fine. Did you see anything unusual around here? Right now my only concern is to find something to eat for the winter. On a horse, surrounded by these men, Remaketze is almighty. But in a few days he will find himself behind the wheel, on one of the roads the toughest in the country. And there, he will have to face his fears. In this country that lacks everything, system D remains the watchword of the inhabitants. Given the poverty of our country, it is very difficult to have access to service stations. There are only in the big cities. Elsewhere, we manage. Never too careful, Nelson made his hatch gasoline a small safe. Nelson is a traveling gas station attendant. He buys the precious liquid in town. To sell it to the highest bidder. I carry this gas can in a remote village, He's at the end of this road, about 62 kilometers away. The people there don't have ways to get around. Once I deliver it, mountain dwellers, will come to refuel. It will be used for taxis, to power the generators. No buses or public transport common on these mountain roads. So there is a rule among the drivers. They don't leave anyone by the side of the road. They never know if they won't be next. On these roads, it doesn't matter that you be a man in a hurry or rather patient, you have no choice, you have to ride slowly if you want to live. But there is another problem. These rotten tracks are damaging cars quickly. They wear out too quickly. Especially the taxis that run all the day on these roads. Their car breaks down at top speed. And it becomes piles of junk in just a few months. The road is long and difficult. Nelson gives himself courage with products, extremely dangerous for a driver. There, I remove the seeds, otherwise they sizzle when I smoke and it annoys me. It's from Lesotho, it's poor quality. There's a bit of everything in there. Beyond the fine little probable in this lost corner, smoking weed while driving can have dramatic consequences. Especially along the ravines. But Nelson does not seem not be aware of it. I like to smoke when I'm driving. Because it's dangerous to drive here. After smoking, driving becomes much easier. I'm fully focused on my conduct. There are not all these things that clutter my mind. Well, not really these forbidden delights have provoked lots of damage to his car. And apparently her boss doesn't have one. never understood the reason. My boss keeps telling me, "Be focused on your driving"! The next collision will cost him surely his driver's seat, and can be much more. Come on, let's get some water! I'm tired of fetching water. We come here to fill the cans, because if we don't have water in reserve, what might happen, the engine is going to explode. liters and liters water for the engine, but still no customers for our 2 bush taxi drivers. When we see people walking by the side of the road, we will try to make them get in the taxi. We look good sitting on it! - Where are you going ma'am? - I'm waiting for another car. She says anything. She must think we want to kidnap her. Those, I don't think they have any money. A miracle could happen. Maybe we will find passengers at the next village. Finally a customer and 16 Loti in their pocket, i.e. €1. Where are you going ? I'm going to see the doctor. I continue straight? I've been driving for four years. Before, I was the assistant of the driver and I collected the money. Until I pass my driver's license. And then I had to wait two years before carrying passengers. It's a man's job. But I have to do it to feed my family. bad times, have their good sides. The time to cross them and another customer shows up. I found myself there because I lost my job. With Alice, we know each other for a long time. So she asked me to come work with her. We share the profits and we send everything to our families. Female bush taxi drivers are few in Lesotho. So she commands respect. These girls are much more brave as the drivers. I have more confidence when women are driving. We can go upstairs ? This group of travelers in a few kilometers, will quickly think the opposite. Listen to music, that makes me happy. Have passengers in my taxi, it makes me happy too. Only, this descent will make her disillusioned. The track is extremely slippery and the vertiginous precipice. Step on the brake! The young woman accustomed to drive around town, struggles to control his old taxi. And she has a way of her own to reassure its passengers. I'm laughing because I'm really scared! Do not worry, she is very careful. No, we prefer to go down and continue on foot, we are much too afraid. We leave our things and you pick us up in the valley. We are afraid because the driver she herself is afraid. It is known here there are always accidents. This road gives me a headache. Looked our tires, they are completely smooth. We should find someone to help us down. Maybe the guy that's coming can get us out of here. I'm afraid, I can't do it. What is the problem ? The road is very slippery with gravel and I'm afraid I can't stop. Your tires are too smooth. What I can do is hold on with a rope to prevent you from slipping. Thanks very much ! But why isn't it not you in front and I stay behind? But no, I have to be behind for you prevent slipping and crashing down Don't worry ! I tied a strong knot. I think it will help me, but I don't I'm still not so reassured. - You take the wheel to get off? - Me ? - Yes, you could drive too! - No, I do not want. Maybe it's our last day on earth. Drive in the middle of the track! You will see where you are going! Stand more to the right! Yes there you go, right now! In fact, life is not a piece of cake! There I realize it. Me who thought I was cowardly, it's nothing next to you! A good scare later, Alice and Febellina find their passengers, surprised to see them arrive in one piece. All these emotions made them hungry. We're starving, it's been a long time that we should have eaten. There is no store to buy food in this lost corner. They pocketed €5. What to offer the dreamed pleasure. We were really very hungry. Luckily we won a little money to buy food. It's always better when we share the same plate. We can eat anything. But what we eat the most, it's mutton. We love that! I don't like to eat vegetables. They give me heartburn. But hard for her to eat meat every day. Alice and Febellina win barely 1000€ per year. Nelson, the itinerant gas station attendant, does not earn much more to deliver gasoline in the mountain villages. He's been driving for 6 hours without stopping, and he only traveled 40 kilometres. It must be said that they take the tracks located at the bottom of the canyons. The rockiest. Nelson sits at 20 kilometers from the village. This is little, but the distance is enormous when you have to walk it at night. The dangers are many. Between wandering beasts. And thieves. Nelson and his two passengers of fortune prefer to camp. But not anywhere. The mountains of Lesotho are full of caves. Some are like time machines. They house the oldest world cave paintings. Look on this stone what they have drawn. Yes, there it is an aurochs! It is a pride. A pride in achieving that our ancestors lived here. They used to hunt and they used the blood of animals, to paint on the walls. Unlike modern man who goes in a store to buy matches, they only had wood and twigs to make fire. They were born here. They lived here. And then they completely disappeared from this world. It's an important part of our history. And the most important is to manage to preserve it. The thermometer is close to zero degrees, hardly any more by the fireside. Alice and Febellina, they, are much warmer. Their kitty of the day feeds their joy of living. The next morning, the fiesta of the day before left traces. But she didn't start their good humor. We have to stop drinking and eat more pizzas! You're right, I will never drink alcohol again. With this pizza, it looks like it's my birthday. I wonder where the almighty found the people who cooked this pizza. There's Russian sausage in it, it's too good ! You really suck at food. I have never eaten something so good! By the way, stop guzzling and leave some! The young women head towards the valley of the horses. Today, find customers is not their primary concern. They are going to attend an event important to Alice. We'll see, Entaï, my cousin. He's a well-known rider. in horse racing. Even if the car must suffer, We're still going to cheer him on. Because it's worth it! horse racing don't argue on a racetrack, but in the highlands of Lesotho. In the country, the riders are considered heroes. Every week, he travels long distances to line up at the start. Entai, Alice's cousin, drags his entire fortune behind him. Horse racing allows me to support my family, and eat my fill. Thanks to this sport, I can buy what Normally, I can't afford. It has been 15 years now that I participate in horse races. When I started, I was running short distances. And then I gained experience. And I got better than my opponents. Afterwards, I managed to buy two horses, one for small errands and another for the one like today. But not everything is going to happen as Entai intended. No poster, no advertisement announced it. the sound of running, spread from village to village, carried by the wind and travelers. These horses don't look fit to win the race! 300 people meet as by magic on this piece of land. Everyone will bet their meager savings, hoping to improve the ordinary. I take the bets. Each bettor gives the name of his horse, put the money down and go back to his place. There is no maximum amount for paris, for horse owners, They can bet all they want, 15, 30 or even 60€ per race. For example, if there are ten euros at stake in a race, the winning rider will pocket €6. And the second 4€. Entaï, join the starting line, under the encouragement of Alice and Febellina. - Is that Entai over there? - Yes it's him ! I told you it was his horse. I bet on him! Alice, you should choose a donkey. You would be fine! The race is on. But suddenly, as he takes the lead, Entai's horse swerves. But what is he doing? It makes no sense ! Entaï, made a spectacular comeback, but cross the line in second place. My reins are broken and I lost control of the horse. I will try to register in another race. Entaï will win it easily. With his horse, the young man don't just race, he also renders services that save lives. Some riders no longer look the same, when he swaps their reins against a steering wheel. Like Rémaketsé, the leader of the militiamen. On his horse he is a person dreaded throughout the mountain. But when he changes his outfit of vigilante for that of taxi, He becomes a man like the others, with its faults and its fears. Especially on this road he takes for the first time. Remaketze is going to get people from his village in South Africa. It is for their own safety that I transport my Basotho compatriots, between South Africa and Lesotho. Zulus on the other side from the border, often attack the Basotho, They see us as thieves. The militiaman is not afraid to play punch with his enemies. But on this track, over the miles, fear settles in him. The first kilometers of the Sani Pass are drinkable, but I got screwed. I underestimated how far the road becomes impractical. And it can be very expensive. Ramaketsé borrows for the first time the Sani Pass. The track connects South Africa to Lesotho. 40 kilometers of switchbacks, lined with ravines. I spent some time in South Africa with my daughter-in-law. In a short time, two of these children are deceased and the other two married. There's no other way back home than to take the Sani Pass. This track is misleading, you have to be a very good driver experienced to get to the end. He can lose at any time car control, and crash to the bottom of the ravine. I can not do it anymore. I feel less and less able to drive on this track. She is really too dangerous. It's going to end badly! The proud militiaman admits defeat. According to him, prosecuting thieves is much easier, than to drive on this infernal track. I'll take the wheel we attack the most difficult part. In the event of an accident here, the emergency services take a very long time to arrive. The climb is endless. It must be said that the pass culminates at 3000 meters above sea level. This driver avoided the worst. It remains to get him out of the ditch. And there, that's another story. It happened just after the bend. I caught the sun in my eyes. I felt the rear wheels hit the edge of the ditch. The car slid. The other driver saw nothing and continued on his way. All the cars need to buckle up between them to tow it out of the ditch. Ramaketsé tells himself that he had reason to let go of the steering wheel. It's the first time that I drive on this track. And I could have easily done the same error as him or even worse. Most people in Lesotho, would like their small country be attached to South Africa. The African giant is a modern country which continues to grow. Unlike their kingdom. It has been 17 years since there was no change in this country. It would be better if we were once for all incorporated into South Africa. In Lesotho we have diamonds, water and other riches, but you can't see it. Yet even South Africa needs our water to survive. But all the money goes in the pocket politicians and their families. The country never sees the color of it. There it is, the wealth of Lesotho. The snow. The image is striking. View amazing in Africa. She gave the kingdom her nickname, "the water tower". It must be said that this is the country the highest in Africa. Its lowest point is at 1300 meters above sea level. Winter falls in August. At this moment, the thermometer goes negative, -10 degrees. Do you feel like the wind is freezing? Fébellina, we will have to we dress warmly. Look, this place was made for animals, not for men. And still I don't even know what animal can live here. The man knows how to tame the snow. Lesotho and South Africa, have the only ski slopes of this part of the continent. In combinations, few Lesothans. and many South Africans. Skiing is not an affordable sport for most people in the country. Alice and Fébellina had never seen by skiers in their lifetime. It is possible to stand on this stuff? I can never wear this kind of shoes. Look at these people, they are brave! How do we get a job here? For pretty girls like you, it should be easy! Are there Basotho who do skiing or is it only for white people? Yes, it happens. - Would you like to try? - Yes why not. To rent a pair of shoes, it's 70€ You can't go there with your slippers! We don't have the money it's only for the rich. Me if I had money, I would buy myself crisps. Yes, if I had money I would buy myself good sausages too. I would feel them gently slipping away in my stomach. For us Basotho, skiing is not common. It's much more so for white people. They love it! When it starts to snow, we see all the white people in South Africa, who land here. I really like this place. I envy the people who take advantage of it. I am too poor and I spend my time behind the wheel. A soda and some dreams, those are the only things that they can afford, in this ski resort, reserved for golden youth South African. While waiting for the country to develop, these people stick together. In the villages, everyone helps with their means. When he is not participating horse racing, Entaï turns into an ambulance driver. This old lady sent for him. I was told you needed to ride to the hospital. Yes son, I am sick and it is necessary take me to a doctor. What's wrong ? I have pain in my shoulders, in the chest and knees. The sick suffer a lot not being able to go, quickly to the hospital. Maybe the government will end by doing something for us. Since the time we ask him. the aching body, the old lady will endure a day horseback to reach the hospital. I really like this old lady. Because she tells me always stories. I wouldn't like her to fall badly sick because she makes me happy. Right now, I'm sad. because nobody don't tell me stories. She's too sick to do it. It's normal what I'm doing here. But apart from me, nobody does not take care of the old people of the village. I do it because I know the old have a lot to teach us. I take care of it like from my own parents. The people of Lesotho tend to say that to sit without doing anything, do not remove the thorn from the foot. They fight every day so that their life is the least difficult possible.
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Channel: Les Routes de l'impossible
Views: 454,814
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: documentaire, routes de l'impossible, routes dangereuses, bhoutan, road trip, les routes les plus dangereuses, les routes de l'extreme, les routes de l'extrême
Id: mxEq-LbCh-M
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 49min 5sec (2945 seconds)
Published: Fri Dec 23 2022
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