Destination Sénégal | Les routes de l'impossible

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to several thousand kilometers from France, at a time when believers finish their prayers, a French freshly landed, starts out laughing a journey he is not ready to forget. - It doesn't drive well. Already it's not cold and in addition, I force like a skid there. - At this moment, Johnny only has one piece of information, he is expected in the north of the country in Saint-Louis. Which side is the bus station? A maze rusty sheets. Here there are as many more cars than destinations and not the slightest sign to guide our fisherman. He is immediately alpagated by the porters. - Where are you going ? - In St. Louis. - Saint Louis, the bush taxi. - Which one is it ? - In the crush, one of these suitcases disappears. My suitcase, where is the other one? Come with me. - Johnny is lost, for a tip, the carriers crowd around him. The smartest one has already put his suitcase in this antique taxi. - You take the place. - Straight out of the 80s. - Hello gentlemen. - Johnny is grumpy, but he has easy contact. We can discuss, do you mind talking? No. - I talk a lot. I am a wrestler. - I don't understand what you're saying. - He's a combat wrestler. Ah, wrestler, you wrestle. - Yes Me, I am a fisherman and I live in the Island of Oléron. - Johnny Wahl, 43 years old, married and father of a little girl. Johnny is bubbling like a storm. Grandson and son of a fisherman, he had from birth the profession in the skin. Thirty years of exhausting work, but above all 30 years of freedom. - Johnny, what do you like this job? We are all alone and there's no one to get on our nerves, to speak like at home, you are all alone, you are free. - In any event, a boss would have struggled with complainer. Child of fucking shit, it pisses me off. His salary, it is the ocean that fixes it. A good month of fishing can earn him more than 5,000 euros, but he can also come home empty-handed. With his outspokenness, its association and its lawyers, he defends the interests small fishermen, especially against some regulations it considers abusive. It's non-stop regulations. The job fisherman, we could almost believe that we are bandits. Like any worker, you have to live from your work and the problem is that he doesn't have the right to fish what he wants, does not do what he wants and constraints as not possible. I remember of my father who had gone on strike. - Johnny is a ball of nerves, raised the hard way by an extremely strict father, he lived a long time like a flayed alive, it is only by melting his family that he calmed down, but he remained a fighter. When he was offered to practice his profession at the end of the world, he was not afraid to take risks like that day. Johnny has always been a daredevil even if it has lost some of its luster. Before, it was more easy when I was 20. - The real challenge for him is to be away from family. My daughter told me, who was going to cuddle him in the evening, it's the first word she said to me. There will be your mother who will give you hugs. - It's going to be hard ten days without dad? Yes. Don't cry my baby we're not going to cry, that's not good. You see I told you that you were sensitive. - Moments away to discover its destination, Johnny has only one anxiety, spend 15 days in the furnace of the countries of the South. Head south, I suspected it. I felt it, unless he makes a small turn. He goes back there you don't feel like that he returns a little, it makes zigzags. Congo, the Azores and yes, Senegal. You are going to Senegal. Oh, it's hot. - It's hot. It's very hot. -Yes it is hot. Oh, it's very hot there! Oh, how hot it is! It starts already getting hot. With all that, we're going to be hot. - In Senegal, Johnny will ply his trade with the sinners of Saint-Louis. - Go! Go! Go. Let go of me ! - Men without fear, ready to risk their lives every day in order to feed their families. To initiate Johnny to this hard life, Radim, 43 years old and his patched-up canoe. It's leaking water everywhere. Radim, she makes the other your canoe. It's not that serious. - As long as you don't sink. - Will it fit to this fishing from another age? OK. Lets' go. - He who is used to stalking sonar fish and motorized nets. Johnny, you have to be very fast, you just talk. - Hurry up. It annoys me, it annoys me, Toubab is angry. - In France, Johnny constantly complains regulations ever stricter, safety, hygiene, rules which according to him, choke small fishermen. In Senegal, these certainties are in danger of being seriously undermined. That fish, we still treated him well, he was in the water, he was in a clean place and there, they put him on the ground. - How Johnny will he react to poverty? Gently, Do not fight. They look like dogs who were fighting for a bone, that shocked me. - Culture shocks, there will be many more. It's a party of Senegal that I will forget. - Johnny, will he come home changed from his experience alongside fishermen from Saint-Louis? It's been five hours that Johnny is locked in this taxi, or rather a rolling oven in which it is stewed. It's 40, it's not maybe they do less because even in the middle of summer, at home, he does not do so hot at all. - Under 50 degrees, he rushes towards Saint-Louis, the great northern city. The city is located at the mouth of the Senegal River and the Atlantic. Saint-Louis has the largest country's fishing community. It's at one of them, to a certain Radim, that Johnny will live for two weeks. Our fisherman has only one address scribbled on a piece of paper. I have to go to this address, I need a cart? I have to go at the Khadim N'Daye pharmacy. Khadim N'Day son by Muezzine Ahmet N'Daye. How do we get there? By taxi ? - Rather in a horse-drawn carriage. Johnny and Modou, the wrestler, made friends during the trip. They meet for his next fight in a week. See you Saturday, we call each other, yes and you will come on the other hand? Yes. - The eye of the tiger. Yes. Come on, hello Modou. It is far from here ? - No, it's not very far. Do you know where it is? - Yes, it's over there. Are you sure ? The coachman looks sure of himself, but our fisherman will quickly realize how to find an address in Saint-Louis requires a lot of flair and a little patience. Wait for me, I will inquire. OK. - The horse, him, has no desire to wait. The horse goes there stay here, because there is not even the rope. It's here ? - Yes, it's on the other side. - Forward is not I will tell you where it is. The coachman hard to find, because in Saint-Louis, the names of the streets are not indicated. The man has an idea, go see the imam from the fishermen's quarter, he knows everyone here, well, normally. - The gentleman, do you think he's there? - Yes. - Johnny Lack of luck, the monk is not there and no one seems know the famous Radim. There is no marked address, so there you are in the void. A white stray far sightseeing tours, it's over by attracting attention. You are going to go there yes, it's not there. This old gentleman seems to know where the sinner lives with whom johnny must live 15 days. Hello. Me, it's Johnny and you, it's? - Radim. Hello. - Hello. It's a long time to come here. - Yes, here is Senegal. Yes it is hot. - Yes, but the sea is there. We have the same thing at home. - No, it's not the same thing. Johnny, is that it? - Finally, we found him. Almost without difficulty. We're going home. - Okay, I'm with you. You imagined it like this your Senegalese fisherman? I imagined it bigger and sturdier. Oh good ? - Yes and in the end, you are almost no bigger than me. At first glance, Radim owns this big house. Johnny is reassured, he thought he would find a hut. Johnny, come see your room. - He will quickly become disillusioned. Radim praised him this shed at the back of the yard. there is a key to lock me up. This is where he will sleep for two weeks. That's my room. - Johnny, sit down. It's hot. Like at your place. It's not like home because it's a bit bigger for me. It's not the same at all. - You have to make yourself comfortable. Alright when I will make myself comfortable, when is it I'm going to be like that. If you want. - Toilet ? Toilet, like the room. OK, there is no light there. Spartan. - That's good. OK. All you need to know where was it and that's the toilet flush? - That's it. You imagine, if you make a big commission. - That needs a bucket of water. Yes, because it's okay maybe it's light and what it will take buy me on the other hand, it's paper. It seems to me that they do without. OK. I believe that I'm not going to do without if you see what I mean. Johnny didn't finished being surprised. I present to you my wife. - Nayaba. It's my son. Radim has a big family. Where ? - Hamoun Guy. I wouldn't want to miss his name. - Hamoun Guy. Hello. - It's me son. No, it's a girl. - A girl. Your daughter is very pretty. - Thanks. Yes, she is pretty. In all eight children. The baby is sleeping on the floor. Radim, if my daughter slept, I would not like make a lot of noise. Johnny thinks that this living room is the living room, in a sense, he's not wrong, but it's the only one living room of the house. She also serves dining room and bedroom, they are ten to share it. It's a little spicy. Its good ? - Yes. I'm going to bed, I'm going to go to sleep. Tomorrow we go fishing. Yes, insha'Allah. - Inch'Allah, what does that mean? If God likes it. My feet stink, it's infected. This is not the bedroom that I would have dreamed for my vacation, honestly. Gentlemen, I'm not chasing you, but I'm going to bed. Good night, See you tomorrow. The first day at sea of Johnny promises to be perilous. Tonight, the swell has risen, two meters of breakers crash on the shore. Waves are important, right? - Yes. - I do not know, you are the local expert. It's the start which is going to be difficult. - Johnny is used to to face the bad weather, only in France, Departures are sheltered from the port, slowly. In Senegal, the waves, Radim must face them. High risk fishing last month, a storm swept away 28 sailors. Johnny is not the kind to deflate. - It's going to be sporty. At this moment, it does not lead far and still, He did not see Radim's canoe. We're going to see the canoe. your canoe, which one is it ? Is this yours? - Yes. Is this yours? - Yes. That's good ? - Yes. - I sense you're skeptical there. No way, maybe it's going very well, it's very fine, so if it's very fine, it must be good get into the blade. It's good, it's good. It's okay, we can take a shower. - Yes it's good. His fears are confirmed as the swell grows, a canoe is in trouble. Look at her. - Yes, there will be no problem. - If, the engine, it's stopped, are you sure? That's it, it starts again. They do not have cold in the eyes. For these sailors, this time, it passes, for others, it is shipwreck without gravity. Johnny understands why these fishermen take so many risks, like most sailors, their boats, they bought on credit. - You have to give to eat for your family, so after you have to gauge. If it's been a long time that it was not the sea and there is no money to go shopping, the bank is talking and it takes money, so you still have to. Exactly, lately, Radim did not win a lot with fishing and that's why, despite the risks That day, he has to go to sea. - Come on, it's not light. - Yes. - It's heavy. Go on. Come on, What do we say when is it like that Radim? Insha'Allah. Me who am not a believer, it's a little, You know what I mean, it's light. - go on the attack such waves without a life jacket, madness for Johnny. - As soon as we left, I thought we were going to capsize. They have merit. It does not surprise me that there are which capsize and collect. It has stability quite precarious. - Our sailor will quickly realize than the hull is as tight as a colander. It fills everywhere not a place where it does not leak water. Everywhere I look I see it fits. Radim, she does water your canoe, there. Yes, it's not very serious. - No, as long as you don't sink. You will come back with it. - Yes. Barely gone, you have to plug the holes and empty the boat. That's it. I empty and Samba, he clogs. It's natural to reassure you that? It's wood, it floats and before it fills up. Now, what will make me happy, that's when i go fishing more fish than you. I will win the contest. You will win the contest. - Yes, we'll see. - Finally, if he manages to catch some, because for some time fish is scarce. According to Radim and his teammate Samba, the fault lies with the huge boats fishing boats emptying the sea. Before there was more fish, the fishermen find nothing, earn nothing at all. When Johnny find out what he fishes with, it does not come back, he understands better why Radim does not report anything. She stinks of their sardines, that's crazy! how you can fish with such bait. - The baits do not suit you? - How am I going to tell you that? I believe they are not of the first freshness. - The baits are rotten, Radim did not the means to buy a fridge, impossible to keep them fresh. Samba, the fish, it is not difficult for you. With bait like this, we don't fish at home, it's not not even worth it. - Johnny may grumble, he does with what he has and at the beginning, it adapts even quite well. Radim, take a good look at me, look at the French fisherman. You can go there my friend. I'm the one catching this. - France one, Senegal zero. It's beautiful, of course. - Mine will be bigger. Senegalese counter-attack, one everywhere. Johnny, did you see? - Yes. - Radim and Samba chain the fish, Johnny, him, lags behind and starts grumbling. There's no way, this is not possible! The lead is too heavy, I don't feel them. He just picked up It is not possible. It annoys me. - Look at me here. Look at me. - He is pretty. Are the reds worth more expensive on the market? Yes. That's the same everywhere, the fish colored are more expensive. Long live France. - After three hours of fishing, French and Senegalese are tied. Ten kilos of fish were brought up, but the sinners do not jump for joy. Samba, is it a good day or not? Not so well. Not so well. The sale will not pay not even gasoline. They are not many. If there was sea bream, that would be a good catch. These fish, it costs nothing at all. - The sea is calm, Johnny thinks that the return will only be a formality, at least, that's what he imagines. On the shore, the swell is still tricky. Radim leaves himself surprise by a wave and lose control of his canoe. What did you do there? - What ? We almost capsized. - Yes. I thought you were a great sailor. - It's dangerous here today. Fortunately, Johnny is a great French fisherman. - The sailor keeps smiling, but he could have hurt himself very badly. The canoe weighs almost a ton, if she turns around, better not be below. Johnny was amazed, at the time to put the boat back on the beach, all the fishermen around rush to help them. Great solidarity. - Yes. Look, they're all coming. You imagine a man all alone who comes from fishing, if there is anyone coming, he finds himself in difficulty, so they help each other. - It is now for women to play, they sell their husband's fishing. Nayeba, Radim's wife, goes to the fish market. A local market, very local. It turns out that five minutes by horse-drawn carriage. Johnny thinks discover a fish market as there are in every port in France, clean, refrigerated and organized, he will not be disappointed. In France, on its Île d'Oléron, even before arriving at the port, sinners like Johnny have to gut the fish and keep it in ice and if he does not respect this rule, he risks a fine. Look, the beautiful fish, did you see there? In Senegal, Radim and Samba have no ice, but thanks to leaks, their fish remain cool at the bottom of the canoe. So far, little difference between the two fishermen. Johnny, the fish, he is a little in love with it, out of the question to mistreat him. Look at this reflection silver and all, you have seen how pretty she is, it is golden and it is superb. Fish who was sinned when? He was sinned early this morning, there, it can't be cooler and when you have quality fish, it needs to be dealt with quickly for people to enjoy. Radim's wife don't leave time either to his merchandise to chill out. Johnny thinks he's heading to the Senegalese Rungis. For our fish lover, this is where the nightmare begins. There are ridges everywhere, he is barefoot. Horses urinate two meters away bundles of fish placed on the ground. They also imbibe this liquid doubtful that escapes from this trailer. Johnny can't believe it. I don't want to offend you, but look at the state of the ground. When he realizes that the bins are not clean either, Johnny can't refrain from commenting. The bin is dirty. It's not serious, then I'll clean up. After the baccalaureate, but it's before adding the fish. I will clean the fish. Because the fish we still treated him well, he was in the water, in a clean place. They put it directly on the ground. Look at this, he's doing to push him to the ground, go ahead, send kicks in it. The fisherman is disgusted, the smell is pestilential, the filthy ground, but buyers are at the rendezvous. I take it at 6,500 francs. It negotiates apparently closed. - Nine euros per box, Johnny finds the price unacceptable, he tries to do raise the auction. It's rising, it is sold at 8,000. No, no, 6,500. Go Nayeba, Do not let you do. We were seven to catch all the fish afterwards, you have to share, that's what you have to tell him, you have to pay gasoline and all. Yes. There, it won't even pay for gasoline. - Nope. White is right it won't even pay for gas. If we no longer had colorful fish, the Peach would have been better. Here, here are your 7,000 and I think it's already quite expensive. stop, you know that's a good price. It's the white who made us agree, he said 7,000. The White meddle in our affairs. - So much of everything that he push Nayeba to set up a union. We before it was the same and after, we learned to value our fish to sell it better elsewhere. The whole thing is that afterwards it would be necessary that the fishermen regroup, they buy a truck, that they regroup and ship it somewhere else. - For Nayeba, it's a bit of science fiction. Johnny is convinced that it would help her and Radim. If here, it's Rungis fish in Senegal because that's pretty much it, that's how I understand it, they have the possibility to pick up their phone, canvass fishmongers elsewhere or restaurateurs or groups, there is the possibility to do. - For a European, it's obvious, but in Senegal, fishing is a matter of survival. What Nayeba dreams of in the immediate future, it's from a second room in his house. Ten euros for a day's work, once distributed with stingy fishing partners, there will only be two euros left in Nayeba's pocket. Johnny has nerves. It's a bad day, that's it. - In Senegal, the salary monthly minimum is 53 euros, even in his worst months, johnny wins on average 50 times more. At the end of the day, our fisherman will smile again. On the beach of Saint-Louis, in the evening, fishermen give way to sportsmen. There are footballers obviously and the fighters. Here, the Senegalese struggle, it is the national sport, most popular more than football. As expected, Johnny finds Modou, the wrestler with whom he had made friends in the taxi. This evening, he trains on the beach. He's the champ. - He's the champion, is he your coach? - Yes. He is the one who leads. - Yes. - Modou is opposed to Sar, to a fisherman from Saint-Louis. He keeps looking at me him, I think he likes me. Everyone respects the other and especially no low blows. - The goal of the game is simple, tackle his opponent to the ground, but faced with such mountains of muscle, task is far from easy. The eye of the tiger. Because he has a good base, he is fine, small, stocky and sturdy and if he does not lift it, it won't happen. - That's it. - The fight turns out short for Modou. He saved himself for Saturday, that's what I told him. It's a fight to train in order to prepare for the real fight. Exactly, that's what I told him. You didn't force a little. - Sport is not really what Johnny likes, but there was a time, he was not the last to fight, remains to put on the Enguime, the traditional loincloth of wrestlers. Those are my family jewels, that. You do like that. - Fishermen's toddlers laugh at Johnny's antics, other kids in town would like to do the same, but them getting ready to work. Since his arrival, every evening, Johnny is intrigued by a strange ballet. At nightfall, gangs of children invade the streets. Dressed in rags and dragging their bowls, they go home in house begging their food and some parts. Beggars and others from door to door, no shoes, clothes with holes. I do not know where they sleep. Intrigued, Johnny decides to follow them, curious to see where they live. These street children they are called talibés here. They beg for the account of a marabout and in exchange, it hosts them and teaches them the Koran. Johnny wants to meet him, but the man is not there. The sinner is received by his two assistants. From the first meters, Johnny is upset. It is a school ? What's this ? They don't learn than the Quran? We educate them, they are led to religion. you, your child, why are you taking her to school? I take my daughter to school every day, she learns geography, French, English, to become better, live in community and later, she will have a job, she will have something. my daughter is not to beg in the street, my daughter has shoes and it has nothing to do with this situation. I am perfectly aware that we are not in France, that wealth is not the same than France here, there, in Senegal. Where are the children's toilets? - It's over there. Toilet and the shower are in the same place. Can we watch it? Oh, look at the cockroaches! Look at the roof up there, you see the cockroaches up there. - The marabout is missing never small hands. poor families of the region entrust their children to him in exchange of learning to read. Their parents did not ways to send them to school. With the fortnight of talibés who beg for him, the marabout supports his two wives, his two assistants and dresses her children properly. Johnny feels the anger rising, he goes out to take the air and comes back with cakes. Gently, gently, gently, gently, gently, don't fight. This scene terrifies him, now, it's stronger than him, finished the courtesies. Excuse me, you have children? No. If you had any, you would like that they live like that? - Here they learn the Koran. They learn the Koran, I am completely I agree with you, that's fine but under better conditions, there is a minimum of hygiene to have, that's not good. That's a shame. - If you can do something to help them you can do something to improve their lot. There is no problem, you want me to give you money like this your tunic will be more beautiful and them, they will be exactly the same. You send them beg for it, not to improve their lot, it's to enrich yourself. We've seen enough we can leave. That shocked me, that shocked me, the children all fell at my feet, they pushed me, That shocked me to a point. They looked like dogs who were fighting for a bone, but really, it had the same effect on me. I believe we have enough talk for that evening, it's a part of Senegal that I will forget. With Radim, Johnny discovered a survival peach. In Senegal, those who get out of the game, they are the ones, every day, an armada of a hundred canoes leaves Saint-Louis for the open sea. Radim encouraged Johnny to leave with them, he even has him got a place on board. Here, nothing more family, the men are a dozen per boat. The fishing will last all night and it will be a landmark in his life as a sailor. The canoe measures 25 meters, four times more larger than that of Radim. From the start, two things bother Johnny. The first he feels the frame move strangely Everytime let it hit the waves. You feel does it work? If they don't mind, Normally that shouldn't worry me. The second is a bit further. There is only the barbecue. - He is in a precarious balance and shaking doesn't help. Johnny is worried, embers lie within one meter from 400 liters of gasoline, a floating bomb. BBQ, sailors have an interest in keeping it well, the crew is approaching of a particularly dangerous area. Samba, why is he stopping? - He's backing up. Why ? - Because we're stuck in the sand. - In this location, the Senegal River flows into the ocean, stormy waters where the sandbanks whirlwinds are created randomly, the sailors do not know never where they are. These sandbanks also have for the effect of lifting huge rollers. Look at the package he takes. Ah, it's sport fishing! - To get out of it, you have to know how to wait for the right wave and have a little lucky too. successful maneuver, the helmsman is just 20 years old, but already a serious experience. It's gone for four hours sea before reaching the fishing area. On board, men gain strength, they know that, The night will be long. A person who eats well works well. - You have to eat then. Yes. In Wolof, it is said that an empty bag does not stand up. - Energy, it will be necessary, in few hours if all goes well, they will have to go up a net weighing several tons, but they will not be alone, a second canoe joins them just in time to share dinner. As a good sailor, Johnny doesn't lose the course, he is even surprised of the route followed by the captain, due north, according to his calculations, they're heading straight for the border. It's still Senegal, 40 kilometers further, it's still Senegal or is it Mauritania? Here you are in the Mauritanian zone. OK. - More fishy waters, but waters forbidden to the Senegalese. - What are you risking? - We risk a fine and imprisonment. It's been a month already that his brother is imprisoned there. A month in jail so tomorrow the bracelets and everyone at the station. After ten days in Senegal, it takes more to destabilize our sailor yet tonight, He will take a memorable fishing lesson. From now on, a race against time is on. When Sun sets, the sardines go up on the surface to feed, fishermen have barely two hours to capture them. After the moon will rise and its light will reveal their position. To avoid disturbing fishing, we switch to night camera, remains to locate the bench of fish in the dark. How do you see sardines? It shines ? It is very simple, it looks like a big white ball. Ok, but no because I don't tell him sardines when there is nothing, you see ? - Do you see something? - Nothing. - On his boat, Johnny detects fish through electronic means, all warm in his cockpit. His cabin precisely, he already regrets it. I come to take a shower. There's fish there! - You see something there? There, in fact, I see men standing in front of me, that's all I see. - Yet the sardines have just been spotted. The two canoes encircle the fish, each of them pulls one end of the net, a one kilometer trap long and 30 meters deep that must be closed as soon as possible. In the dark, the maneuver is dangerous, if a man gets caught in the ropes, it's almost certain death. If you have your feet in the net, it can go very wrong, the best of times, overboard, and in the worst, cut in two. - Johnny finds encirclement too slow and the fish will escape. We're gonna be too short she is leaving, we managed to surround a clod, but not at all. - To prevent fish to flee before the net closes, the technique is known fishermen all over the world. We see nothing, there is the fish. Ah! Ah! Ah! Do as much as possible noise to disorient them. The trap closes, we can turn our camera back on. They are organized because it wasted no time. on his boat, Johnny would pull up that net fast using a motorized winch, here, everything is done by force of arms. Johnny may tear himself away, pull with all his might, he struggles to put it back together. - It doesn't go up anymore? If it goes up, not fast then. Our man goes to sea since the age of ten, physical work, he knows, however, after three-quarters of an hour of effort, he is at the end of his rope. I have my hands full and they continue on the other hand. I have to sit down. - Are you giving up? Yes, I look at them there, now I'm fed up. - Suddenly, before his eyes, the ocean becomes white with fish, thousands of sardines appear on the surface. I do not know if you see what's going on there and they shoot everything by hand. For over three hours, he sees the fishermen come up without weakening tons and tons of sardines. - What he manages to put on top, it's impressive though! Look, it's endless. After four years of hard work, men celebrate their achievement. Johnny, him, definitely surrendered. Early morning, the crew is back in Senegalese waters. This time, they only crossed no Mauritanian coast guard. At this point, the only risk is to capsize with all the cargo, 25 to 30 tons of sardines. At the slightest mistake, everything goes through the bottom. Such a peach has become impossible in Senegal, so much the waters have been emptied by huge industrial trawls, that is why, from tomorrow, these sailors will return to Mauritania hoping once still don't get caught. In the meantime, we must disembark fish in boxes of 50 kilos by force of arms in a place more like a dump than an unloading dock. Yet, here, everyone pays a tax to the town hall, Johnny doesn't understand where does the money go why isn't there no dock? The answer of this fishmonger will annoy him. There's nothing there, how come? - You know Africa. Each canoe pays, each fisherman, fishmongers, everyone pays a fee, but so far, here is not clean. Me, I don't see not where is the money. That's it, so by the way, there are those who keep the money. That's it, but it's always like that. I think that they deserve better because given the work what men have done, I can tell you yes because it's not easy what they do, they work hard. - In Senegal, Johnny, the engaged sailor, would have reasons to fight every day, both working conditions Senegalese fishermen revolt him, but his life is not here nor his fights. For the first times since his arrival, Johnny will give news to his wife and daughter, he goes to a cybercafé connect to the Internet. You are good my darling. Are you doing well ? Yes. - Yes and you ? Very very good. - How is your stay? I do not know, there is a mixture of spectacular with, how am i going to tell you that? Surprising. It's true ? - Because hygiene does not exist. I hear you less well. You lose connection I will move inside. You have a sunburn on your nose. - I had a few sunburns. their children, what are their names ? You have Omar, the second, I don't know his name afterwards, he has three little girls and a last little boy and one last little girl. It's a big, big Anaïs family, they sleep eight in the same room, children sleeping on the floor and everything. Anais, they sleep on the ground, I told you that you were a privileged, you would come here, you would see that you are privileged. I am very lucky. yes you have lucky my daughter i think that all lucky European children. Earlier, children were asking me money to eat, in the street. I love you my daughter, see you again soon. I miss you a lot, a lot a lot. Don't cry my darling otherwise you know that your father afterwards, He will cry then stop there. Do not Cry. You turn off Anaïs, extinguish before me because otherwise I don't like, Turn off before me, kiss. - Kiss. - After two weeks in Saint-Louis, Johnny is overwhelmed by the cry of an animal, he no longer supports the bleating of goats. The fishermen's quarter is invaded by it, they are everywhere, in the streets, on the roofs and obviously at Radim, close to the cabin where Johnny sleeps, so the nights are noisy. A little mine this morning. - Yes. I have not slept well. There are the ladies there who speak. It's rustic, it's very rustic. I would sleep in my garage, it might be better in my garage. Hello. - Hello Radim. Did you sleep well ? - Yes. I would like to wash myself a little, do you have a basin of water? Would you have that? - Yes. - There is no running water here. It'll be fine, it's fine, I just want some water. Leave it, it doesn't matter. I am big Radim I can do it. - Radim brings him his basin, he wants to speed up the shower, they have an appointment with the mechanic. It's here ? - Yes. I'm going to put myself comfortable and I'll be back. Its good ? - Its good. I need it nobody to wash my back. It will do good, because it is hot there. You saw Radim, that's just muscle. Yes. - Beer and sandwiches. Yes it's good. - Since the accident, Radim was unable to return to sea. hitting the shore, its engine was damaged in two places. There's a repairman on the corner, it's not a repairer like us, but he is a fixer. - The handle throttle valve is cracked. In France, no question of repairing it, she would be changed immediately. You have to fix it, we should change it, but it's expensive, so better fix it. - Second problem, this little fin above the propeller broke off. The mechanic can't do anything, order it from the dealer would cost too much, heading to the neighborhood of the kings of recovery. Johnny wonders where Radim will be able to find an engine spoiler in such a mess. The Senegalese, he has his own idea, its fin, it is there. - They collect everything. - For the moment, it is in the form of soda cans, used deodorants and other old aluminum bowls, in less than an hour, all this waste will be melted to become a beautiful brand new fin. With these scraps of aluminum recovered, here, we make everything, casserole dish delivered with its lid or this series of Senegalese barbecue. We're here wasting all the time and I only see them here, nothing that gets lost. When you come here, you tell yourself that it's rubbish, it will go in the trash, no, in the end, it goes there. - Find aluminum in Senegal is almost mission impossible, founders use children streets rummaging through garbage cans. It's the talibés who sell us this, they are paid 0.38 euros per kilo. I wouldn't have hit on it as he has just done, because you heard the noise it made and beside the flame and everything, but apparently it's going well. - To make the fin, the pattern is cut in this piece of wood then it is placed on clay, the imprint is then drawn, remains to close the mold and wait for the aluminum to melt. In the meantime, Johnny learns that to escape poverty, all these men tried to enter Europe by reaching Spain by canoe. A crazy journey more than 4,000 kilometers crammed into makeshift boats. I have already tried to leave four times, without success. Once, after twelve days at sea, the engines broke down, there was no more food, we drank sea water. In the night, another boat rammed us, our canoe sank, we were 70 on board, we are three to have survived. It didn't cool you down you went back anyway, why? Here the work is too hard, we don't even have the means to afford masks, many of our colleagues have already died of cancer. When I saw them I said they were immigrants, There is not any work what are they doing here? I was asking myself this question. There, now, I understand that they want better. Our families are counting on us to improve their living conditions. If we die at sea, at least they'll know we tried. We mostly see them like people coming take work from the French, but to understand, you have to put yourself in his place. You come here now you understand why. When you have children, I think you yearn the best for your children, so a father who leaves his homeland to earn money to improve the lives of his children, I think it's beautiful, it's beautiful, that's all. Now I will see it more the same way. - One hour later, the spoiler or at least its raw version is molded all for 1.50 euro, just have to sand it down and solder it. The next morning, the engine is flawless, with a little paint, the repair is barely visible. near the workbench, a bucket intrigues Johnny. What is that ? - Riders eat it. Sheep food? Cartons ? Yes. It's not good, a sheep eats grass. The sheeps eat boxes, that's not normal. I'm not veterinarian, but good. - Cardboard is mixed goat food, in this poor country where grass is almost non-existent, it works nutritional supplement. A food habit than herbivores of the neighborhood seem to have adopted and considering the quantity garbage strewn on the ground, they don't hesitate not to refill. A real joy for animals, a wound for the inhabitants of Saint-Louis, the beach is full of trash. While Johnny and Radim enjoy a good bath in the sea. You are not filming me. A sad sight takes place on the shore. Johnny is not surprised, since two weeks, he sees this every day. That is a specialty of Senegal, garbage, it grows spontaneously, do you think that's normal? - It is not normal. Why don't you say nothing to those who do that? It's up to the authorities to manage that, I am a simple citizen and if I say something, they'll tell me what I'm getting into. If he's all alone to say it and that everyone does it, what's going to happen ? It is he who will be marginalized in his neighborhood. If the authorities don't take it in hand, how do you want it to change? You didn't see how she looked at him with an air of saying if you open it, it will be bad. - Look at her. - Two minutes later, it continues. We live on this beach, the whole family bathes here, besides, we often fall sick and the flies bother us. Everything that is thrown into the sea, the waves, bring him back. We asked trash cans at the mayor, but once elected, he no longer cares about our claims. At the mayor, they only see their own interest. - Obviously, the town hall is not concerned no more waste management only from the wharf landing of fishermen. After 15 days of common life, Johnny wants to show Radim and his friends how he works. I saw their life and now, they will see mine, it's going to be good. - They believe hard how to impress them, but their reaction will be quite different. Its good, here we go, yes. There it starts again. You go to the device to raise, that's what I was telling you. I know that. On my boat, I had two like that one for lines and one for lockers, did you see that? We catch crabs there. I never imagined that you worked like that, really. - Everyone is surprised to discover that Johnny hauls in his nets and its lockers using a motorized winch, for them, the profession of fisherman, it is above all a question of strength, a collective adventure. Before, you had to work without equipment, everything was done from memory, so you were a great fisherman. When I started fishing, we had none of that, we may have forgotten, that may be true, but we can do it again. - They go add a layer, the use of GPS would make Johnny a helper, technology would have made him losing the ancestral knowledge of fishermen. If he took me somewhere with his GPS, I would know how to return without his help. However, if it was me who took him somewhere, he would never know find his way. What do you feel ? You have a little impression that your skills of fisherman are implicated there? He grew up here so it's normal that he is able to return without a device, with nothing at all, at home, I will do the same. Here I won't tell her that if i am can go far and come back to the same place, it is to be pretentious. However, I tell you that if ever I took a canoe, maybe i could catch yourself catching fish, maybe you could to be surprised, you understand? - At Radim, dinner time is approaching. In the kitchen, his daughter Raki, from the height of his ten years, she is already an accomplished cook. Tonight, she prepared them fried fish accompanied by its mince vinegared onions and a food present all over the world, French fries. Come eat. Enjoy your meal. - You must eat well. Onions are good with the vinegar, it's good. - Johnny is amazed, how can radim leave his daughter handle oil boiling and embers? The little cook, when I see what you do, you do a lot of things that's why that we Europeans, we tend to overdo it, protect children too much. My daughter, she doesn't the kitchen like this, because we are afraid let her get burned. We are always here saying no, does not, we're going to do it, do you understand? You like it Raki. How could you not? When she smiles, she doesn't need to talk, I do not understand nothing she says when I look at her, I have a formula that comes to me, angels have no color and that, it comes from the bottom of my heart what I say, look at this. Radim, let me show you my family. - Yes. - On the Island of Oléron. Johnny lives simply, he rents a small, unpretentious house. Come, we will show you the house of a fisherman from Oléron. Inside, all modern comforts. - The fridge is important. Tomatoes, prawns, come on, forward for the cupboards. The fridge like the cupboards, are filled with food, Radim and Nayeba don't come back. A coffee maker that makes thermos, that's good, microwave. - Them, household appliance issue, their only luxury is that old TV. - The dish-washer, there is not much, just the residual dishes. Nayeba, as soon as they change of canoes and that they earn money, he has to buy you a dishwasher. - Laughter is an illusion, but the couple seems to be in the way. He never would have imagined see a fisherman like them live in what they consider like luxury. Now they almost shame to host Johnny in their small home. Nayeba, when you see that, do you think i'm rich? Yes. For Radim, you are rich. - You're okay. It's not the same condition, It is not the same. Everywhere in France, me, the people I know, they all have that, it's normal, so when i came here, it's true that I was surprised, do you understand what i mean? Like you, you must have been surprised. - Yes. - Johnny may justify himself, unease has set in, especially with Nayeba. I saw that his gaze had changed, it embarrassed me a bit. You think it might change something between you? It has changed my way of life. Never before would I have lying in these conditions, but when you see that they sleep ten in the same room, it's yours to be a little more modest, it makes people less demanding. They don't even have no running water. There are injustices in France, but it's not just in France, still here, it may even be worse. - This evening, all of Saint-Louis came to attend at the grand Senegalese wrestling gala. The best fighters from the region are there. The clashes are violent, some end up knocked out. Modou is well decided to put all the chances on his side. Like all Senegalese wrestlers, he leaves it to the marabout. The coach, it is physical training, the marabout, him, to spiritual preparation. I manage the mind. He is the adversary of Modou whom I imprison. It is as if I tied her arms and legs. If the sinner wants, I can help him too to fish a lot fish for example. For the moment, I still have managed to fend for myself, I will continue like this. - This evening, Modou is opposed to this colossus of 1.90 m, Jack Bauer, 35 fights, 35 victories, he's the defending champion. With his clan, he performs a war dance. Objective, even before the start of the fight, break the morale of his opponent. Johnny watches the show with concern. Modou, he fears above all black magic used by Jack Bauer. He conjures up the bad comes out showering himself with milk. The fight can now begin. - The other, it's a hell of a piece. - In a minute, Modou defeats his opponent, the mountain of muscles is flattened on the ground. He won ? - Yes. However, the other he caught it like that, but he managed to hold it. At the beginning, it was average because the other opposite, I don't know if you saw but it was quite a piece. - Yes. So Johnny, do you believe in grigri now? You see the charms, it works in Senegal. In my opinion, the charms that allowed you to win, that's it, that, that's what made you win. This is what allowed me to win, but the grigri. It helps. - Yes. I was mentally ready and physically too, but my marabout was much stronger than his, his magic helped me win. - It was the last johnny's adventure, tomorrow, he returns to France. His last night it will happen like all the others, to the sound of goats. You'll go. - Yes. I'll be back with my family. When ? - I do not know when. Do not Cry, you're going to make me cry. Come on, I kiss you as we do at home. You can kiss me with you. Come on, give me a kiss. Come on, let's do a kiss and me. Johnny. - See you soon. See you soon, yes. I take you in my arms. Its good, at the station, please and before, I will ask you to turn right there, I want to see something before leaving. I made a new friend through Radim. I believe that I will miss. On his return to France, Johnny bought himself a new boat, he baptized him Toubab, the white man in Senegalese.
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Channel: Les Routes de l'impossible
Views: 695,388
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: les routes de l'impossible, voyage, afrique, pêcheurs, sénégal
Id: nFJEs7Lr3yY
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 69min 16sec (4156 seconds)
Published: Fri Nov 25 2022
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