Обслуживание Необслуживаемого Амортизатора на Мотоцикле Yamaha WR450F 2012

I'm Konstantine Tumbinsky and this is How to Rebuild Kayaba Shock Watch detailed video about shock removing at our channel It should be cleaned before disassembling Shock from WR450F 12-15 does not have valve on the reservoir It's the only difference from over models You need shock or fork oil 5w Aerosol cleaner is convenient to use for metal parts Kerosine is good for rubber o-rings Lithium grease for bearing I'm going to install new Moose Racing base bushing with preinstalled seals I use tool for spring compression to loosen preload rings Wrench for preload rings Driver for base bushing And cap on the rod to save seals when installing Also I need high-pressure pump with monometer And nitrogen needle for OEM reservoir cap without valve I'll change OEM cap to the cap from WR250F 2008 with valve Service manual says the shock is not rebuildable But it can be rebuilded First, I compress the spring to loosen preload easily You can also loosen it by impact screwdriver Now the spring can be removed Dissasembling should be started with reservoir Release the pressure Press the cap to see the stop ring Shift one side of the stop ring and strike it by screw driver Pump the reservoir to remove it Drain oil Remove front cap Press the base bushing Remove the stop ring in previous way - it's more difficult, because the ring is more deeper Now remove the rod As you can see, there is a dirt To remove the nut, you should cut the peening On Kayaba shock you can cut the peening completely and save the nut But on Showa shocks, you should save the peening like a cone, because it holds rebound adjusting mechanism Now the nut can be removed Plant the valve and all washers on the screw driver, not to mix them Recover last thread if necessary Remove compression valve Clean and dry all parts I use Suprotec aerosol cleaner Cap from WR250F has the same dimensions as OEM and can be installed instead Check all parts If there are scratches on the rod's surface - it should be polished The rod assembly is carried out in the reverse order Install the cap before installing the base bushing with the seal Lubricate the rod and the seal If you can't dissasemble the rod - change oil and clean all parts - it can be enough to prevent oil leaking, if there are no visible damages on rod's surface Clean and dry the thread to apply the loctite Loctite ussually dries up in half an hour Yоu can make two dots for better fixing We recomend to make dry assembling It's easier, more robust and does not need extra oil Remove the nipple to spread out the reservoir Before removing the shock I estimated the valves position - it should be in front of the word "NOT" Stop ring is easy to install This cap can be fixed by wrench to pull it to the stop ring Install the nipple, when the cap is fitted Next, lubricate all rubbing surfaces and install the rod It's very easy to install stop clip, if assembling is dry Drive in the outer cap Now, fix the shock, so that the compression hole is up Pull out the rod and fill the shock with oil fully To remove air - tightly close the hole by hand and pump the rod After several pumps, the air bubbles come out Add oil not to dry internal holes Procedure is simply and robust, it allows to remove air completly If you don't close the hole tightly - you get this During the process you must set the shock in vertical position to dump air from the dome of the reservoir In this case, about 20 times were enough to remove air completly Fill the hole with oil and install compression valve The bleeder hole should be up I use compressor to get enitial pressure fast The pressure should be about 10bars But you should pump up to 11bars, because 1 bar releases when disconnecting the pump Better to use nitrogen - it less expands, less heated, better kept We don't have nitrogen system, so we use air Practice shows, that the air is not bad You should check the pressure more often Standart preload is 18mm from free state Preload rings should be fixed Standar rebound - 18 clicks from full hard Standart compression - 8 clicks from full hard We recomend to clean and lubricate bearing, if the shock is removed Watch detailed video about bearing maintanance at our channel I recommend to fit the shock on the bike and check the air If there is an air - loose the compression cap to release the air Cap with valve allows to control the pressure and rebuild the shock easier Subscribe, if information was interesting!

Channel: Stuntexru

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Keywords: shock, kayaba, kyb, rebuild, yamaha, wr450f, repair, enduro, dirt, motorcycle, мотоцикл, задний амортизатор, ремонт, замена масла, эндуро, кроссовый мотоцикл, игла, nitrogen needle

Id: roOQmmvXSwY

Length: 16min 6sec (966 seconds)

Published: Sun Mar 12 2017